# hauling tractor on trailer



## ugabulldog (Jan 28, 2009)

I am about to build a house (contract it out) and need to purchase a trailer to haul materials on. Also, I plan on buying a tractor in the future, not a lawn tractor but not a big one either, just something to bush hog about 12 acres with. So this is a little pre-emptive but I need the trailer now.....the dovetail trailers I found are longer than I need and I don't want to have to pull and back anything longer than needed. I am looking at a landscaping trailer that I can remove beaver tail when needed and that has wooden floor. My question is will this type of trailer with a wire mesh ramp be ok to drive a tractor up on? thanks


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> My question is will this type of trailer with a wire mesh ramp be ok to drive a tractor up on? thanks


Only for a very *small *tractor

Solid ramps are much safer, and you'll need jacks or stands on the back to keep it level when loading and unloading.

You should research tractors and figure out a weight range for waht you want, then buy a trailer made to handle MORE, since you'll probably be hauling implements too


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## SirDude (May 30, 2010)

It seems like most of the magazines on the news stands lately are all doing their tractor / utility tractor / vehicle reviews right now. 

June/July's Mother Earth News has a review of the compact tractors
July's M.E.N's special "Food and Garden" issue also has a compact review

Back issue, Nov. 2009 M.E.N's "wiser living series" issue has a review on the utility vehicles

I would do a search on some of the magazine's websites and see what reviews are available.


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## ksfarmer (Apr 28, 2007)

Bearfootfarm said:


> Only for a very *small *tractor
> 
> Solid ramps are much safer, and you'll need jacks or stands on the back to keep it level when loading and unloading.
> 
> You should research tractors and figure out a weight range for waht you want, then buy a trailer made to handle MORE, since you'll probably be hauling implements too


Right. And when figuring length, be sure to allow for a front end loader and maybe a bush hog on the back. Adds up to longer than you think.


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## Ramblin Wreck (Jun 10, 2005)

I don't think wire mesh would hold up most small tractors. You probably need to identify, at least within a weight range, the tractors you would consider buying. Make sure your trailer is rated for the highest weight tractor with plenty of fudge factor. Also, make sure your vehicle can tow that weight, again with plenty of fudge factor. I've towed my tractor with and without trailer brakes. I highly recommend buying a trailer with brakes and making sure your tow vehicle is equipped with a brake controller to operate them. Even with brakes, it can get pretty hairy going up and down hills with thousands of pounds "pushing you" and realizing that there are plenty of drives/roads where people can pull out in front of you. 

Good luck and be safe.


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## fordy (Sep 13, 2003)

ugabulldog said:


> I am about to build a house (contract it out) and need to purchase a trailer to haul materials on. Also, I plan on buying a tractor in the future, not a lawn tractor but not a big one either, just something to bush hog about 12 acres with. So this is a little pre-emptive but I need the trailer now.....the dovetail trailers I found are longer than I need and I don't want to have to pull and back anything longer than needed. I am looking at a landscaping trailer that I can remove beaver tail when needed and that has wooden floor. My question is will this type of trailer with a wire mesh ramp be ok to drive a tractor up on? thanks




...........For a Tractor.......Kubota....around 40 Hp !

..........For a trailer.........I'd look for a 16 foot long x 6 foot , 11 inches wide ! Don't buy a narrow trailer like 5 feet or six feet , also , The axles make a BIG difference in carrying capacity.....LOOK FOR a trailer with axles that have a 6 lug wheel with brakes on BOTH axles ! A 3500 lb. axle will have 5 lug wheels , a 5,200lb. axle will have 6 lug wheels . The 5,200 pound axle is an Intermediate size axle and the trailer will be able too carry 6,000 pounds without any problem ! You , also will want to beable too haul the tractor ON the trailer incase it needs service or repair . In this regard , make sure your trailer has loading ramps , so you can drive your tractor up onto the trailer . , fordy


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## springvalley (Jun 23, 2009)

As others have mentioned on here , find out what type tractor you will be buying and buy your trailer accordingly.You will never regret buying a bit bigger trailer now, than kicking yourself later saying "I should have bought that bigger one" . >Thanks Marc


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## texican (Oct 4, 2003)

Like the others said...
Buy bigger... you can always haul smaller. If you buy smaller, you can't haul larger. (Well, you can, but you'll end up with broken axles and wrecked equipment... btdt!... and went out and bought an 18'x7.5' trailer) I've had flooring problems, and to avoid rotten spots where my large tractors wheels ride, I removed the flooring, and welded heavy angle iron on two sides to support a single plank, on both sides of the trailer... if the wood gets rotten, and I don't notice it, the angle iron will hold the tires up.


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## tamsam (May 12, 2006)

What are you pulling it with? Regardless of tractor size you need a truck big enough to handle the weight, Rule of thumb is never pull any thing heavier than your tow truck. This includes boats and such. I have seen so many rigs wrecked because of the weight difference. Please take this into account. Good luck with your trailer. Sam
PS I have seen people load rock onto a dump truck just to get the weight up to the weight of what they were pulling.


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## Micheal (Jan 28, 2009)

I think I'd be looking at hiring someone to haul that tractor for me. That is unless I was figuring on haulin' big heavy stuff on a regular basis to justify buying a very large trailer. 
That's what I've done.


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

Yes, those ramps on a landscape trailer will hold up to a tractor. They hold up to trucks, tractors, loaders, etc. The expanded metal mesh bows, sags, stretches and sometimes tears, but you don't get disasterous catastrophic instantanious failures either. If you want to reinforce it, simply weld on some angle irons.


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## mudburn (Feb 26, 2010)

For hauling a 40+ hp tractor, I'd suggest a 16 foot, 7,000 pound, double-axle trailer (two 3,500# axles) at least, depending on the size of the tractor. The tandem axle is important for weight distribution -- a single axle trailer can easily put too much or too little weight on the tongue and isn't safe with a heavy load. 

You can go with a heavier trailer, but if your tractor is in the 4,000# range, this size trailer would work. Brakes on the trailer are important and so is the pulling vehicle: it needs to be large enough, heavy enough, and strong enough for pulling and stopping with the load. A 16 foot flatbed trailer without a beaver tail is inherently useful on a homestead. Mine is a 10,000 pound trailer with 2 3,500# axles, so the frame is very strong. I use it to haul tractors, firewood, composting material, building materials, etc.

mudburn


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## salmonslayer (Jan 4, 2009)

I have exactly what Mudburn suggests, a 16 foot double axel welded steel trailer with two 3500 lbs axels and welded steel loading ramps that have carrying slots in the side. It carries my compact Kubota with loader and brush hog attached, my 1948 AC WC tractor, my golf cart, garden tractor, firewood, lumber, old car projects etc. I tow it with either of my 3/4 ton trucks (both have towing packages) and I have no problems even in our hilly area. I would not use a landscape trailer with wire mesh ramps for anything other than a garden tractor personally. I havent needed anything longer than the 16 feet yet but on balance if I had it to do over again I would probably have gone for the 18 footer.


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## ronbre (Apr 26, 2009)

the trailer should have some kinda of haul rating information available


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## rambler (Jan 20, 2004)

double axle, 6000+ 16 foot long trailer or better is the only way to go. You will not be happy with anything smaller. Not for the tractor, and not for hauling house supplies either.

Wire mesh doesn't hold up to a tractor, tho it could get by, it won't last.

Soon you have a loader & a heavy tiller & weights on the wheels, and even a little tractor gets to be over 5000 lbs.....

--->Paul


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

fordy said:


> ...........For a Tractor.......Kubota....around 40 Hp !
> 
> ..........For a trailer.........I'd look for a 16 foot long x 6 foot , 11 inches wide ! Don't buy a narrow trailer like 5 feet or six feet , also , The axles make a BIG difference in carrying capacity.....LOOK FOR a trailer with axles that have a 6 lug wheel with brakes on BOTH axles ! A 3500 lb. axle will have 5 lug wheels , a 5,200lb. axle will have 6 lug wheels . The 5,200 pound axle is an Intermediate size axle and the trailer will be able too carry 6,000 pounds without any problem ! You , also will want to beable too haul the tractor ON the trailer incase it needs service or repair . In this regard , make sure your trailer has loading ramps , so you can drive your tractor up onto the trailer . , fordy



Fordy has the definitive answer. Only thing I'll add is make SURE you have a truck that will haul it.....heavy duty 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton is better.


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## PD-Riverman (May 24, 2007)

I bought a 7x16 dual axle landscape type trailer with the wire mesh removeable tail gate and it works perfect for hauling my tractor, but here is what I done. The mesh tailgate will bend and get out of shape driving a tractor on it and re-inforcing the tail gate makes it so much heaver to take off and put back on. I got 2 heavy C channel pieces cut a few inches longer than the tail gate so when I am going to load my tractor, I use 2 jack stands under the back of the trailer(a few inches shorter so the back of the trailer can drop down some as I am loading the tractor then when the tractor is loaded the jack stands can be removed with out having to jack up the trailer LOL Only took me one time to learn this) I Let down my wire mesh tailgate---I put the 4" wide C channel on the back edge of the trailer and being it is longer than the tailgate, when I drive the tractor on----the C channel never touches the tail gate. My tail gate on my several year old trailer is as straight as it was new and I have hauled my tractor alot. I can handle the 2 C channels seperate a hole lot better than if they were welded to the tail gate.


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## DaleK (Sep 23, 2004)

How far and how often are you actually going to be hauling a tractor? We've had tractors on this farm for over 70 years now. Never had need for a trailer of our own to haul one.


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## Bandit (Oct 5, 2008)

I broke down and bought a 18 Ft. Cam-Superline Car Hauler last year for moving our Portable Mining Attraction to Fairs and Festivals , also I have moved and junked a few cars with it.
The wife wants to put sides on it and take it to " The Worlds Longest Yard Sale " LOL
After towing homemade race car trailers when I was a lot younger , this tows like a dream , You don't even know it is back there , and it can carry 6800 # .
Bob
http://camsuperline.com/Trailers/Construction/5.php


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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

Get a trailer with two axles and you won't be sorry. I have one that has 1 axle that is fine but you will have the load balanced to the front of the trailer to get any speed with it. If it is loaded to the rear it will whiplash on you at 45 miles per hour or less and may cause a wreck. With a 2 axle trailer you must load a lot of weight on the rear before it will try to pass you on the road. The wire mesh can hold a Kobota 2400 but not much more and will buckle with that. If you buy a wire mesh trailer use a piece of 3/4 plywood on the wire mesh and you may get it not to buckle. Spreading the weight around is the way to keep it from harming the trailer.


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## ugabulldog (Jan 28, 2009)

thanks for all the replies......one follow-up question: i found a good deal on a flatbed w/ ramps versus a dovetail w/ ramps, is there a big advantage to havind dovetail versus flatbed?


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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

ugabulldog said:


> thanks for all the replies......one follow-up question: i found a good deal on a flatbed w/ ramps versus a dovetail w/ ramps, is there a big advantage to havind dovetail versus flatbed?


On a flat bed you can haul things all the way to the rear end but with a dove tail it may fall off. Either one will haul a tractor if it is large enough.


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## Bandit (Oct 5, 2008)

ugabulldog said:


> thanks for all the replies......one follow-up question: i found a good deal on a flatbed w/ ramps versus a dovetail w/ ramps, is there a big advantage to havind dovetail versus flatbed?


 A dove tail offers a easier loading angle , I have never had a problem loading or moving anything from a ford escort and an f-250 4 x4 headed to the junk yard , to moving the poles for our 30 X 60 foot tent , plus the 55 gal. barrels used to anchor it down . Or our portable mining sluices for fair's .
Bob
Ps.
We bought it as a demo from a tractor dealer , they used it to pick up and deliver tractors and equipment . also Kubota financed it for very very cheap payments and interest .
I looked for two years for a GOOD used one , and even they junk ones were way overpriced .


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