# Boolit Casting



## MelonBar (Dec 27, 2012)

I got some casting equipment in yesterday. Been wanting to get into casting for years but never did. So it's about time I started. 

My first mold is a 252gr. SWC for 45's

I figure a the 45 is a good caliber to learn casting on.

Next I need to set up a smelting pot to melt down some wheel weights I have. I don't want to melt that dirty crap in the Lee pot.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

any steel , stainless steel , or cast iron pot you never want to use for food again will work

on the cheap , if you can find a 20# propane tank with the old style valve , the scrap metal pile had several at the dump , remove the valve fill with water dump out and cut just below the welded seam 

don't try to pour it will be 100 pounds of 7-800 degree molten metal use a ladle and you want a long handled slotted spoon to skim dross and clips 

i found a all metal ice fishing hole cleaner worked perfect think 5 inch round spoon with holes all over it is used for removing ice chips from the hole when ice fishing but that might be harder to find in NC

smelt and pour ingots over an old sheet of plywood as molten lead will release from wood but not your drive way.

old muffin tins work for ingots , spray with wd40 first and they release well.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

when you get to casting after you have smelted you will want a dowle or stick of wood approximately the size of a hammer handle , as soon as the sprue freezes you tap the sprue plate open 

also qtips and a bit of 2 stroke oil 

clean your mold with brake clean , starting fluid or alcohol to remove any oil then you can smoke the cavities with a match or lighter get the cavities sooty this helps release , then as the ingots melt lay your mold across the top of the pot to pre heat , but before you start casting take a qtip with just a ting dip of 2 stroke oil on it and lube the top of the mold block , alinement pins and sprue plate screw , do not get any in the cavities 

now when the lead is melted and 700 degrees some like a lead thermometer others just go with when it is all nicely fluid back you heat down till the port shuts off then turn just till it turns back on that will maintain your heat fairly well. holding the handles shut dip the corner of your mold block in the metal till it begins to smoke then start casting your wanting the sprue to stay molten for 5-7 seconds before it freezes this gives it time to draw from the sprue to fill out 

if you get wrinkled bullets your likely to cold if frosted bullets to hot and in the middle is what your looking for if the mold gets to hot they start to stick just wait a 1/2-3/4 of a minute then tap the hinge bolt with the stick of wood , never hit the aluminum mold block only the steel parts 

also come join us over on Castboolits.com for so much more info


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## dkhern (Nov 30, 2012)

melted 115 lb of wheel weights last week used cast iron dutch oven and fish cooker. dumped clips and skimings into 5gal bucket w/about 4" of water in it. plastic bucket. got a little splash when clops hit water but no flying lead splater. just be very careful with and liquid around pot or youll end up wearing molton lead. your spatula looks plastic if so wont work. i use a stainless serving spoon to skim a cheep alum ladle to fill ingot mould.

gcp offers great advice

depending on what actuall size your mould cast (lead alloy will cause variations) and the bore diameter of your gun you might need to size bullets rather than liq alox


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## MelonBar (Dec 27, 2012)

I got the Lee .452 sizer if I need it. Been reading that smoking the molds isn't necessary if you do things right. It's more of a cure for a symptom of a problem. It's better to find out what the problem is.

I have a 5 gallon bucket full of wheel weights. I need to sort out the zink ones. Looks like bucket is 70% lead/30% zink so it was a good haul. I think I'll move away from using scrap and go with pre-mixed aloy in the future though.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

.452 will most likely be to small is often even to small for many 45acp most 45lc is .454 barrel stock and companies have started using .454 for all 45 and .357 for all 9mm ,38, and .357

it depends a lot on who and when your barrel was made 
if this is a revolver you also want to slug your throats if your barrel is .454 and your throats .452 you will size your boolit down before it leaves the cylinder 

you want about .002 larger than bore diameter 

you need to slug your barrel if you can

scrap actualy works very well a 49% clip on wheel weights and 49% soft / pure lead and 2% tin is a great pistol bullet alloy 

but if you don't try and push the limits you can get very usable alloy several percent softer and strait WW wheel weights worked well also but is kind of hard and if your looking for it to mushroom at the target it doesn't much


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

zinc floats , you can just skim it off , just don't get to hot or they do melt 

and some top heat helps melt things faster and draw out impurities an old candle tossed in the pot with the WW and lit when it starts smoking will help with heat and work as flux be prepared for 2-3 feet of flames coming off your smelting pot i light it with a torch 

saw dust is a good flux stir it in and let it float back up then skim off with dross


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

my current 44 mag bullets the lee 240gr swc tumble lube desing i do not size they drop at .434 i use a fairly soft alloy and they fit in cylinder fine , recovered from snow they measure .429-.430 depending on where exactly you measure them

i also do not push them very hard maybe 1000-1100 fps they are primarily for my shooting enjoyment not that i have any concern that the would go thru a deer they are pleasant to shoot by comparison to a load going just 2-300 fps faster 

think about it this way it takes X horse power to make a car go 55pmh it takes twice as much to go 75mph but your only going 1/2 again faster this continues you need 3times the power or more to go 100mph but have only gone 1/3 faster 

(this is not the exact actual loss but a way of explaining it)

so a 170 bullet from a 30-30 at 1400 fps has very little recoil but try and push it to 1800 and you more than double the felt recoil while only changing the speed 400 fps so why do it you nearly double the energy at both ends , but the paper target doesn't care how much energy i have 98% of my shooting will be target shooting so i load for that.

something else to think about is a 170 30-30 at 1400 fps has almost the same energy as a factory 223 at the target

boolits that need to go 1800 also cost me 2x or more as much doubling my cost or more for a loaded round for a 1400fps round with scrounged lead , 3.50 a box primers and .02 a round powder my cost per 100 on recycled brass is under 5 dollars the hundred making them just slightly more expensive than 22lr I enjoy it so my time is not figured in or they would jump to 35 dollars the hundred real fast but i suppose that is still less than buying factory

barrel life at this low pressure with lead is tens of thousands of rounds longer


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## MelonBar (Dec 27, 2012)

Hmm your right about the 454 cal. All Lee 45's are 452 though. Even the 454 Casull mold is 452. Strange.


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## MelonBar (Dec 27, 2012)

Yeah I don't push my ammo and guns either. I usually try and stay near the start loads in the data books.

Took awhile to learn that but I did learn that running things at 80% power, cars,guns,engines,saws,sanders,stoves, and such make the things last longer and is more enjoyable.

I don't get the guys that load 38++P loads for their government revolver. If you want that kind of power just get a 357 Mag.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

the good news is
First most lee molds i have purchased have been .002 to .005 over the size specified in the mold model 

Second , you can "beagle" a mold named for the guy who came up with he idea this uses little strips of aluminum duct sealing tape on the mold block face and results in a .003 inch increase in the boolits size when measured 90 degrees to the parting line and when you push it thru the right sizer it usually makes them round and about .002 larger all the way around because when you squeeze a malluable metal it either gets longer or fatter to fill the available space in the direction of least resistance 

Third , Lee sizing dies are relatively soft steel and with a little 400 grit sand paper , oil and a wooden dowel can be opened up the size you want from the closest available size smaller


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## MichaelK! (Oct 22, 2010)

I used to be very obessed with bullet diameter, untill I slugged the barrel of my Walther P1. For years I had been shooting the same load in it as my Ruger P89, which was sized to .356" (The Ruger was .355").

Then I finally slugged my P1 and discovered it's bore was .357". Well, I made up some test loads with bullets sized to .358" (same as my .357) and was surprised to see that .356" performed better.

My favorate alloy is Lyman #2 which is supposed to be 90% lead, 5% tin, and 5% antimony. I get a fairly close dulication of this by adding one pound of tin to 19 lbs of wheelweight metal. My cheapest source of tin these days is scrap pewter that I scrounge at the flea market. Legally, to be called pewter, the metal must be at least 82% tin. Modern alloy however is now lead-free, and is 97% tin, 3% antimony. After visiting the Selangor pewter factory, I bought about 20lbs of scrap pewter turnings that I melted into 1lb "bisquits", specifically for alloy enrichment.


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## MelonBar (Dec 27, 2012)

Looked at some premixed lead today online

$100 not includeing shipping would buy me enough lead to cast 956, .45 250gr SWC.

Two, 500 round boxed of .45 250gr SWC at the gun shop would cost $80

Geesh. The lead cost more than the bullets.


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## MelonBar (Dec 27, 2012)

Funny thing, one 500 round box of .45's cost $39.99
One 500 round box of 9mm cost $39.99

I think the 9mm shooters are getting ripped!


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## MelonBar (Dec 27, 2012)

Now I see why everyone dumpster dives for lead.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

there are better places to buy lead , 100 dollars should buy you enough lead to make a lot more 

the scrap yard is was getting 2.40 a pound for clean bullet alloys your choice that would make 1100 for 100 dollars 

over on the casting site lead is still going for a a buck ten to buck fifty a pound shipped 50-60 pounds at a time in med flat rate box


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## MelonBar (Dec 27, 2012)

I didn't see that over there.

Can you post a link to that?


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

MelonBar said:


> I didn't see that over there.
> 
> Can you post a link to that?


pm sent


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## MelonBar (Dec 27, 2012)

I cast my first batch of .45's today.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

looking good


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

GCP,
Question for you since you seem to be one of the ones here that knows casting..

Is a Lyman 450 with 8 dies (unknown sizes) worth buying? I don't know much about it as it is coming up on the auction block on Feb 18th. I just need to know if it is a good starter model. I don't know much about casting, but have reloaded for well over 30 years and want to expand my knowledge to casting my own.. 

I don't know the condition yet, but that can be determined when i look at it. From the research I've done already it seems to be a decent starter. I don't know if it has a heater or what sizes the dies are. It seems they sell used from $25 to $100 depending on condition and dies with it..

If anyone else has any knowledge on this please feel free to chime in..

TIA


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## MichaelK! (Oct 22, 2010)

beowoulf90 said:


> Is a Lyman 450 with 8 dies (unknown sizes) worth buying? I don't know much about it as it is coming up on the auction block on Feb 18th. I just need to know if it is a good starter model. I don't know much about casting, but have reloaded for well over 30 years and want to expand my knowledge to casting my own..


That's the sizer I have and it's a fine peice of equipment. I bought mine years ago, and recently refurbished it with new seals and a new core-shaft. It retails for 150 new, and the dies are 25$ each, so base your purchase decision on how much it would cost to purchase it new.

Besides sizing bullets, I also use it to size annealled brass that I'm converting into bullet jackets. 

If it doesn't come with one, I'd recommend you buy this optional heater to use with it. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/182761/lyman-lubricator-heater-115-volt It mounts directly under the sizer on the table top and it heats hard lubes to their flow temperatures easily. I had previously used a heating pad wrapped around the sizer to warm it up, but the dedicated heater performs much better.


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

MichaelK! said:


> That's the sizer I have and it's a fine peice of equipment. I bought mine years ago, and recently refurbished it with new seals and a new core-shaft. It retails for 150 new, and the dies are 25$ each, so base your purchase decision on how much it would cost to purchase it new.
> 
> Besides sizing bullets, I also use it to size annealled brass that I'm converting into bullet jackets.
> 
> If it doesn't come with one, I'd recommend you buy this optional heater to use with it. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/182761/lyman-lubricator-heater-115-volt It mounts directly under the sizer on the table top and it heats hard lubes to their flow temperatures easily. I had previously used a heating pad wrapped around the sizer to warm it up, but the dedicated heater performs much better.


Thanks for the answer. 

I think I'll wait till I learn casting properly before I try doing jacketing.. I did see the heaters at midway while doing some research.. Is it best to start with a hard lube instead of a softer one?


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

generaly softer is better for lube 

not sure why i didn't see your question before 

good lubes http://www.lsstuff.com/lsstuff-stuff at good prices


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## dkhern (Nov 30, 2012)

i used 450 for years w/no heater worked well for me w/ideal lube. heater should work well also. go to castboolits.gunloads.com and read


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

but honestly i use 45-45-10 for most everything as a tumble lube , i am just not pushing anything all that hard 
http://lsstuff.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=31

but i made my own before it was available from white label but will probably just buy from him when i run out


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

Thank you everyone! I appreciate the help!


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

Anyway for those in the area here is the auction.. I had the date wrong it is Feb 16th

http://www.auctionzip.com/Listings/1642611.html


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

Well unfortunately I didn't get the Lyman 450.. It sold for $180 for the lot (Lyman 450 and 8 various dies and some lube). I thought it was too expensive for used equipment. I just couldn't see bidding $190, which was my next bid..


So if anyone knows of a good starter sizing press for sale let me know, I'm looking to buy and learn to cast my own...


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

unless you knew those were the 8 dies and punches you were going to need i think you were correct to stop biding 

184 for a new lyman 4500 with heater , and then you will need a die and a punch 
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/65...let-sizer-and-lubricator-with-heater-110-volt

otherwise if your not trying to push them hard use a lee push thru sizer , they are about 16 dollars and mount in your press , and tumble lube them 
or pan lube 

pan lubing is easy enough , making your own lube from bees wax and lucas red an tacky grease 

here is a recipie 
measure by volume 
10 parts 50% bees wax 
6 parts 30% lucas red and tacky grease
2 parts 10% johnson past wax (yellow can)
1 part 5% AFT
1 part 5% stp oil treatment 

heat grease , add in everything else while grease is hot , bees wax is easier to measure if liquid so melting it in a separate container then adding in may help if you go to soft then reheat and add more bees wax till you get the desired hardness 

lith-bee is another recipe many like 

don't do this in the wifes kitchen or with any utensil you ever plan to use to eat again cheap pans at good will are your friend 

to pan lube you can place your bullets on a shallow flat tray like the lid of a cookie tin , then use a turkey baster to add hot liquid lube to above the top of the lube grooves , then let cool , when cool sometimes cold is best pop the cake out of the tin and push the bullets thru with a unsharpend pencil they will keep what was in the groove , or you can make yourself a cutter out of a piece of fired brass , drill the primer hole out big enough to put a nail in then you put it over the bullet like a cookie cutter push down then use the nail to pop the bullet back out 

there are lots of ways to do it on the cheap if your not ready to lay out the cash


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

Thank you GCP.. 

The one I was bidding on didn't even have the heater and I couldn't read the die sizes.. Their original containers were worn and unreadable. I did manage to read 2 of them and know 1 was a .451 and the other a .357, but don't know what type of bullet, ie round nose, wad cutter etc..

I prefer to buy a good used one because of the money, but may have to spend it on a new one.. 

I'll have to check out the Lee push thru sizer.. Since I already have a RCBS Rock chucker or 2 around that i use for rifle cartridges..

Thank you for the information.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

the push thru sizers work just fine and if the size ins't quite big enough a wooden dowel , oil and 600 grit emery cloth will let you open it up the few thousands your looking for 

tumble lube works for many applications under 1500 fps , hey why not it works on 22lr at 1280fps 

but fit is king , no amount of lube can make up for bad fit you need to be .001 to .002 over groove, some like tumble lube designs i leave bigger than that they swage down some going in the cases and work just fine


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