# Replace or rebuild?



## Tilly (Oct 16, 2007)

My 99 chevy Suburban 1500 4wd lost its engine. I've had this thing for 8 years, it's paid off, and don't want a new one. I called a few shops and was told 4k to put in a new engine with a 3year 100k mile warranty. It will take about a year to save up that much. Hubby could do the work to rebuild it, with help from friends and family, but only a bit at a time due to work. I don't know how much it would cost to rebuild, any ideas? Would it be better, faster, cheaper, to rebuild? If I have to park it this year, what do I need to do to it? 

Thanks for your help...

Tilly


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## zant (Dec 1, 2005)

4k to replace a Chevy motor???WAY too much...go on net and find dealers selling long blocks...switch off parts that don't come withLB and change the motor....2500 would be the HIGH end of equation..


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## Sawmill Jim (Dec 5, 2008)

Well if he can turn wrenches take a look http://www.powertrainproducts.net/?gclid=CPuZlr-tmKkCFcZe2godRVCRug also http://www.jasperengines.com/gas-engines.php

Have used the Jasper engines before :cowboy:


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## tinknal (May 21, 2004)

Check out the wrecking yards for a low mileage wreck with a good motor.


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

What do you mean "lost its engine"?


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## davel745 (Feb 2, 2009)

You can buy a Chevy crate engine for fairly short money. These are new from the factory. To remove and re install. I don&#8217;t know. I think they can be found online.

Rebuilt engines aren't so good any more.


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## mightybooboo (Feb 10, 2004)

davel745 said:


> You can buy a Chevy crate engine for fairly short money. These are new from the factory. To remove and re install. I donât know. I think they can be found online.
> 
> Rebuilt engines aren't so good any more.


Yup,new crate engine is way to go with GM's,BIL put a new 350 in his Jimmy,as expected runs excellent.Just call a few dealers,prices can vary....a lot.


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## buck_1one (Nov 26, 2004)

It is impossible to say, with the info you gave, if the engine can be rebuilt or not. Sometimes when an engine goes, it is a total loss and cannot be rebuilt. That said, rebuilding an engine is not easy or cheap. There is a lot of machine work that needs to be done and it is not cheap. Things to ask yourself, how far away is the machine shop, what is the rep of the shop, can they do all the work that needs to be done, what are they going to charge for the work.

I've worked on cars all my life and was an ASE cert mechanic. Let me tell you it can be a real pain in the butt ordering the parts and communicating with the machine shop to make sure parts will work and that the machining is done right for the parts. Engine tolerances can be as little as thousands of an inch, that's .001.

I've seen engines that were "rebuilt" in someone's backyard that said they knew what they were doing start having problems in as little as 25,000 miles after the "rebuild".

(incorrect info was here, sorry)

As an FYI, I just had a set of heads rebuilt. Cost me just shy of a grand, just for the heads.

As someone else said, a lot of these rebuilt engines you buy are junk. I've seen a lot of rebuilds come back to the shop over the years having one failure or another. Yes they were under warranty and the cost to the customer was covered, but it was still a pain in the butt for the customer. As mentioned in another post and one I will second, Jasper is probably the best out there for their rebuilt engines, if you can find a supplier near you.

Junk yard engines are a 50/50 thing. I've put most in that ran and ran with no problems. I put one in for a guy and as soon as we started it the rods where hammering away like crazy. He was out a lot of money and never did get his truck back on the road. You just never know how the engine was treated before you got it.

If you think you can swap engines I would try an engine from a junk yard. It should be the cheapest and fasted way to get your truck back on the road. Try to find one with the lowest miles (no guarantee of anything) and if possible hear it run before buying (not always possible). Make sure they give you a warranty. Have the engine in and drive the living crap out of it before the warranty is up. If there is a problem get back with the junkyard ASAP, just to cover your butt. 

Also be smart and replace the seals and gaskets before putting it in the truck. That way you don't have oil leaks. Also you should replace all the maintenance type items before the install as well.

Sorry for such a long post.

Good luck, and hope this helps you make a sound decision.

Buck

(edited: I removed the incorrect info regarding the long block, I was writing one thing but thinking about something totally different, sorry)


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## nadja (May 22, 2011)

Go to several wrecking yards if needed, and look for a chev 4x4 truck with the same engine in it. You will also be looking for a truck with fewer miles on it. Look at it this way, the truck was running when it got into the wreck. Try and find one that was damaged mostly in the back. Ask them to start it and let you hear it run. Look for smoke from the tail pipe. Also check the tail pipe before it was started and see if there is a lot of black soot built up on it. Worn out valves , rings etc. You can do well with a used engine especially if your carefull and get at least a 30 day guarentee from the yard.


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## oneokie (Aug 14, 2009)

buck_1one said:


> Someone suggested a long block and swap over your parts to the rebuilt block. I would suggest you not do that. You do not know the condition of your heads and if they need work or not.
> 
> Buck


Last time I checked, a long block came with reconditioned heads installed.


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## mothernature (Aug 22, 2010)

I have a 1999 Z71 (with 317,000 miles), and I would either send it to a good motor shop or replace it. DH and I have rebuilt MANY motors, and we would not mess with my 5.3 because so much is computor controlled. The timing, the tow package,etc.! It can be done, but be ready for an overwhelming job!


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## devittjl (Jun 24, 2004)

It depends... How is the tranny and transfer case?


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Find something like this near you and buy the entire vehicle. Resell what you do not need and use everything you need.
http://www.copart.com/c2/homeSearch...e3s1&lotId=16224831&returnPage=SEARCH_RESULTS


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## buck_1one (Nov 26, 2004)

oneokie said:


> Last time I checked, a long block came with reconditioned heads installed.


You are correct. A long block does come with heads. For some reason I had short block on the brain even though I wrote long block.

Thank you for pointing out the mistake. 

Please disregard my statement (in my first post) regarding the long block.


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## Beeman (Dec 29, 2002)

You have a 99 so you don't have the 350 engine everyone thinks is so cheap. 
I was a preferred installer for Jasper for years. Great company, excellent product and warranty that you can count on. Contact them and they will give you a referral in your area for an estimate. If you install an engine, theirs or another do keep in mind the engine is just part of the price. When installing I always used Jasper's installation kit which included all belts, hoses, clamps, filters, ignition components etc. Depending on mileage,condition and reason for failure you also have to look at the radiator condition.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

A plugged cat can toast your engine too. 4k is a lot of money to just drop in a rebuilt 350 but if they are corecting problems too it might be an OK price. If you have to store it for a year, I would leave the blown engine installed, and if you can't keep it inside at least, oil spray the frame and underside, then park it on plastic. If it has new brakes, pull the components (pads and rotors) take them into a dry environment, leaving the calipers attached to the lines. There's a way to block the calipers so they can't extend where the rotor and pads would sit.... not a block of wood though. I just forget cause any vehicle I've parked recently hasn't had brakes worth saving. Jack and block it so the weight is off the springs. Vacuum and clean the interior. Sunshades indside wouldn't hurt. but I\m not really a fan of tarping it. Pull the tires and store inside or at least cover them to protect them from the sun, and rubber loving critters. Drain anything that leaks, and test the antifreeze to make sure its effective. If its not up to par drain it and pull the rad. Check on the truck frequently and keep the grass cut around it. Wildlife luvs the cover and un-moving vehicles.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Oh yeah and add some gasoline stabilizer to the gas tank!


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

If I were looking for an engine, I'd try craigslist, especially if you have the time.

Just check it every few days, and use the search option for "Suburban". You never know when a wrecked 'Burb is going to be parted out.

FWIW, this has worked for me when looking for car parts.


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## mightybooboo (Feb 10, 2004)

Beeman said:


> You have a 99 so you don't have the 350 engine everyone thinks is so cheap.


1695.00 for a new 1971-1985 GM longblock 350,I'd say thats cheap and BETTER than ANY rebuilt IMO.3 yr/100,000 mile warranty.

Of course my BIL thinks so too,and he only did it,what does he know? And of course weve never seen anyone get a Piece o junk rebuild.More than once.

So YUP,I say a new GM crate motor beats any rebuild hands down.And that 350 is the winner of winners.

A reman 5.3 is 2480.00 from GM (search around,prices vary.),again with the 3 yr/100,000 mile warranty.So thats 1500 to R and R and transfer over the the parts from the one motor to the LB of the other..... for 4 G,sounds pretty good to me for the work involved and pretty reasonable for sure doing it yourself.

If anyone can make a better GM motor than GM,for the price and warranty.....I'd like to see it.


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## Beeman (Dec 29, 2002)

The vehicle doesn't have a 350.

Engines, new used or rebuilt never come with oil, antifreeze, filters, spark plugs, ignition components, hoses, belts, exhaust gaskets, radiator if necessary, etc. Last check they charge for all of that too those thieving mechanics.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

> The vehicle doesn't have a 350.


Most have a Vortec 5700 which is an incarnation of the 350. Not an L48 no. I didn't think the GM crate 350's were the same either, I thought they were a low compresion engine for things like delivery trucks or maybe a half ton. Are they making higher performance 350's? The Burb in question might have a 7.4 litre hauler I suppose, but I thought they were only in 2500's.


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## Beeman (Dec 29, 2002)

Vortec 350 started in 96 and ended in 98, 99 has most likely a 5.3 with port fuel injection and coil on plug ignition.


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## mightybooboo (Feb 10, 2004)

Beeman,you are a fine mechanic of that there is no doubt,who has generously given FREE EXCELLENT mechanical advice.Anybody thinks YOU are a thief is a total moron,and I dont think that is the case referring to YOU in such a light.

Thieving mechanics? Yup,there are a lot,they hardly have the market cornered,but Yup,seen plenty. Seen thieving Dr's too,and they will kill you for a buck,let there be no doubt about it.

I disagree with you on rebuilds vrs new motors though.

I dont see anything wrong with that 4000 dollar bill to replace the heart of a vehicle,might not be palatable but folks,things cost money,thats cheaper than a lot of vehicles,and higher than a few others.


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## Tilly (Oct 16, 2007)

Sorry it took a bit to get back. The engine lost its main rod and bearings,you can see it wobble when it runs. It is not leaking oil or anything just sounds horrid and has no torque and wont stay running. The tranny and everything else is in great shape, it was just serviced and inspected before our trip. I was quoted 4500 for a jasper engine installed. Gm dealer was 4000, local shop will put in rebuilt with 3yr/100k for 3500. It is a 5.7 350 Vortec engine that blew. It only had 184000 miles on it. We are leaning towards a crate engine in the spring, so it has to go through a Colorado winter parked outside. I am going to remove the tires and put them on my 89 ford truck, might as well use them, they have 367 miles on them! Will do as Ross suggests, anything else to consider?

Thanks for the info everyone. 

Tilly


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

I hope someone will add to my suggestions or point out if I'm overly fussy. FWIW I was at a GM dealer today and a new (and no doubt seriously loaded) Suburban, topped $70,000 here. Makes fixing one seem alot more agreeable doesn't it!


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## Wis Bang 2 (Jan 12, 2010)

Tilly said:


> Sorry it took a bit to get back. The engine lost its main rod and bearings,you can see it wobble when it runs. It is not leaking oil or anything just sounds horrid and has no torque and wont stay running. The tranny and everything else is in great shape, it was just serviced and inspected before our trip. I was quoted 4500 for a jasper engine installed. Gm dealer was 4000, local shop will put in rebuilt with 3yr/100k for 3500. It is a 5.7 350 Vortec engine that blew. It only had 184000 miles on it. We are leaning towards a crate engine in the spring, so it has to go through a Colorado winter parked outside. I am going to remove the tires and put them on my 89 ford truck, might as well use them, they have 367 miles on them! Will do as Ross suggests, anything else to consider?
> 
> Thanks for the info everyone.
> 
> Tilly


I spent $1,800 for a GM crate engine for my S-10. Replaced a 2.8L V-6 w/ the HT3.4L Crate. I ran it for 100K [6 years] and sold it at 306K still running strong. My UPS guy was looking or a building supply hauler & was impressed w/ how well it still ran..


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## mightybooboo (Feb 10, 2004)

Thats sounds like a good deal to me,put in a tranny later and you got lots of miles I bet.


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

You say time isn't of essence, and your hubby can do the work. I'd start there then. A spun bearing doesn't destroy other things, and is a fairly straight forward repair job. Not terribly expensive and doesn't require a full teardown of the engine. 

Worthwhile as a starting point for the job of pulling the engine has to be done for a replacement. Just a little more work to pull the pan off that engine and inspect the damage to see how repairable it is. 

You may be lucky and simply be able to replace the bearing. More likely, you'll have to turn that journal of the crank. 

If so, you can get away with a perfectly good repair job done for just a few hundred dollars.

I'd sure prefer spending a few hundred than a few thousand. You can always decide on a replacement engine after inspection of the existing one.


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## Tilly (Oct 16, 2007)

Thanks, Foxtrapper, I was wondering why if it could be repaired, but every shop I call says "NEW ENGINE". I'll check with hubby about just pulling it out and going from there.

Again, thanks everyone!!

Tilly


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