# First time litter--help??



## bourbonred (Feb 27, 2008)

This will be the first time I've had a dog that had a litter of pups. Our gpyr female should be due about dec 14th. She has been with us for about 4 months and is stand-offish by nature, she likes dd16 best but will let all of us pet her at times. Knowing the protective nature of this breed, what should we expect as far as being around her the puppies? Any tips about puppying would be appreciated.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> Knowing the protective nature of this breed, what should we expect as far as being around her the puppies?


Approach her *slowly and carefully* at first, and hopefully it will go well.

Probably once she realizes you won't hurt them things will be fine

Build a "whelping box" for her to have the litter in, and have a heat lamp rigged in case it's needed
It doesn't have to be fancy. Mine is just a couple of pieces of plywood attached to a corner in a stall
It lets the female come and go but keeps the pups contained












> Any tips about puppying would be appreciated


Maybe these sites will help a little

The 7 Stages Of Puppy Development:

http://www.the-puppy-dog-place.com/puppy-development.html

Drugs That May Or May Not Be Used in Pregnant Dogs :

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=0+1303&aid=856


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## westbrook (May 10, 2002)

If she isn't already eating puppy food then start her on puppy food and keep her on puppy food for 2 months after weaning the pups. She needs the extra calories and vitamin in the food.


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## BarbadosSheep (Jun 27, 2011)

I like using a whelping box similar to what Barefoot has shown, but I add a safety rail around the inside. Screw a 2x4 into the wall (laying flat so it projects into the box 3 1/2") maybe 4" up from the floor. This rail creates a little ledge that the puppies can hide under. It's very common for first time mothers of large litters to crush a few by accident and the safety rail prevents that. The rail can be removed when they get bigger and more mobile. 

She is probably going to try to dig a tunnel to have them in, especially if she isn't really well socialized with you. It's best to prevent her from doing this as you will have no way to monitor the pup's health.


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## bourbonred (Feb 27, 2008)

A tunnel??? If she does will I be able to move them to the whelping box? How do you convince her to use the box, do you feed her there?


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## bourbonred (Feb 27, 2008)

Bearfoot, that picture is adorable. I can't wait to have little white fluffballs running around.


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## BarbadosSheep (Jun 27, 2011)

bourbonred said:


> A tunnel??? If she does will I be able to move them to the whelping box? How do you convince her to use the box, do you feed her there?


If she has them in a tunnel, you probably won't be able to get them out. Tunnels have been known to cave in or flood out too so avoid that if you can. She won't want to use the whelping box if she can help it. can you confine her to a horse stall with the box in there? If she uses it as a bed she may be more comfortable whelping in it as long as it's in a safe and quiet place.....some place out of the way. She will want to be alone, but once she starts delivering, it's best to observe if she will allow it. 

She may not know what to do with the pups at first and may not get them out of their sacks fast enough. Some people advocate letting nature take it's course, but I'd prefer to help if I can by at least tearing the sack open around the pups head so it can breath if she isn't fast enough doing it. If she won't chew the umbilical cord, you can shread it with your thumbnail. Do not cut it with scissors unless it's been tied off with thread...it will bleed! But if you shread it (like a mother dog does...it's not a clean cut), it does not bleed. Dip the end in a little iodine of you are concerned about infection but I have never found it necessary. If a pup appears to be lifeless, don't give up on it.....you'd be amazed how many pups can be brought back from the brink of death with just some extra care. If one does not breath, I take the pups body firmly but gently in my hands and sling it downward to force fluids out of the lungs. Rubbing very roughly with a towel can stimulate many pups to begin breathing. Gentle mouth-to-mouth can also help a lot. I have observed and assisted where needed in many littes over the years and have only lost a couple pups in all those years. She may do just fine with her new litter with no help, but learn all you can about how you can assist in case she does not know what to do.


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## Cannon_Farms (Aug 28, 2008)

http://www.debbiejensen.com/ you may want to go through that site, even though you cant do some of the things like take her temp because of her standoffish ways you can learn a great deal from that site.

Also, GPs should be able to be handled by their owners so you may want to try to win her over a bit harder so the pups can be socialized and treated for worms and such.


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## Goatress (Feb 4, 2011)

bourbonred, As a full time LGD breeder I won't even begin to go into the myriad of things you need to have on hand and be prepared to do in order to raise a healthy litter of pups because this is something you now have very little time to scramble and learn. However I will tell you on this website is a Health section and you'll find in there, a long list of vet stuff to have on hand for your dog. I strongly urge you to print it off and also have on hand, colostrum, puppy bottles and many assorted nipples, and you better have a good vet you can call up for back up because you may need it.. Oh and you should take momma and litter into your vet for check up and OK from him as early as you are able to. If you are taking it seriously (I assume you are), raising litters is a lot of work, why I always tell people, unless you are willing to give up a chunk of your life to do this, you're better off sticking to buying a pup from someone who does it full time or professionally in the sense that they are set up to deal with *AND CAN AFFORD* all the related costs that come with raising pups up well = that includes not just food but ALL the needed dewormings (no, just one ain't gonna cut it) and vaccinations (FOUR...before they leave my place or the shots go WITH the owner to be finished, and I recommend up to five). 

Have I spooked you yet? LOL..... Don't plan on making much money off this either but I assume you knew that already!

Don't mean to sound harsh I know I do, but this is a ton of work and a great responsibility bringing these guys into the world right. There are tons of unwanted LGD's out there already. Please you don't need to add to it.

And yes handle your *****, handle those pups, forget the cave, bring her in BEFORE she's due, or she may lose the whole litter stressing out if you move her too late in the game (seen that happen not to me but to others). 

Please check this forum out and print off the med/health supplies thread that everyone (not just breeders) should have on hand. Yes its long, but read it.

www.livestockguardiandogs.com 

And good luck with your whelping.


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## Maura (Jun 6, 2004)

Try having each member of the family hand feed her. If she is fed twice a day, this gives you two times to work on friendship, it also will help her to eat more. You can feed half by hand at each meal, and the rest in her dish in the area you want her to be in.


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