# Making a trailer box



## beorning (Apr 14, 2006)

I just picked up a free 4x8 utility trailer last weekend. Free because the wooden box on it is paralyzed. Frame, axle, etcetera are all in good shape.

As much as I'd love to have a welded metal box on it, I don't weld or have any welding equipment and I'm cheap. Probably going to rip off all the old wood and make a new wooden box.

Does anyone know af any good websites/plans for doing something like this? Just about every wooden boxed trailer I've seen that's more than a few years old is pretty torn up and flimsy. Is this just par for the course?


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

If you will obtain 4 pieces 3" x 3" of angle iron, the height of the sidewalls plus the frame height, and bolt these pieces to the corners of the frame you can then attach treated 2" x 6' lumber to the front and sides. If the wood to the sides is left about 1 and 1/2 inch short of the length of the trailer at the rear you will be able to slide a "tailgate" into the resulting slot thus creating a box with steel corners. An additional brace will be necessary on each long side. Use carriage bolts to fasten the wood to the angle iron. I have done this previously and the only piece that has not held after 20 years is the tailgate which has been replaced twice..


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## moopups (May 12, 2002)

Just revert to standard house framing techniques and cover the out side with sheet metal attached with pop rivets, not much more to it. Arch the roof for drainage.

Use plywood fiche plates at wood junctions, reduced to the same size as the timber. A lot of these now employ a dual door system, down as a ramp, or side ways for a swinging door, it just depends where the pivot pins are placed or removed.

2" by 2's" are a common material for use in the framing; 'L' brackets are very use full also at joints. Weatherize all exposed surfaces.


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## uncle Will in In. (May 11, 2002)

Copy the bed that's on it now. Beef it up where it looks weak. Keep it under a roof and it will last a mighty long time. Weather is meaner than wear on most unprotected wood.


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## 1eaglescout (May 16, 2006)

Northern Tool has all the trailer parts you will ever need. They also sell trailer plans. 
Watch what you buy from them, most of their tools are cheap Chineese junk. Avoid the "Northern" brand of tools like the plague.
I'm currently building a trailer from a covered utility bed from an old gas company work truck. The sheet metal is about 4 times as thick as a covered box trailer and I got the bed for free. Its gong to be cool to have all that covered, lockable, storage while camping and traveling.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

agmantoo said:


> If you will obtain 4 pieces 3" x 3" of angle iron, the height of the sidewalls plus the frame height, and bolt these pieces to the corners of the frame you can then attach treated 2" x 6' lumber to the front and sides. If the wood to the sides is left about 1 and 1/2 inch short of the length of the trailer at the rear you will be able to slide a "tailgate" into the resulting slot thus creating a box with steel corners. An additional brace will be necessary on each long side. Use carriage bolts to fasten the wood to the angle iron. I have done this previously and the only piece that has not held after 20 years is the tailgate which has been replaced twice..



i have uncles that have done this but used 6 peices anle iron 2 that are 1.5x1.5 so there is metal on both sides of the tail gate then pins can be put throught to hold it also 2x4 s can be added to the middle of each side vertical with carrige bolts to brace it up

that box will likely be stronger than the light trailer you put it on


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## beorning (Apr 14, 2006)

Thanks for all of the advice. Now if the snow would only melt a little faster so I can get started...


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

5/4 "decking boards" work great for this since they are treated already, and are much lighter than "2 X" lumber. I have a trailer I bought in 1995 with the original boards still on it. For added protection you can spray them with water seal if stored outside.
You didnt say what youd be using it for, but you could also make a "box" from cattle panels that you could clamp to the frame to haul livestock, but could be removed for hauling other things where you dont need it enclosed.
I converted this one to haul sheep. It's welded on ,but it could have been bolted or clamped.


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## Jim S. (Apr 22, 2004)

I like that, Bearfootfarm. Nice work!

I had much the same idea, but ran across and picked up a nice set of truck bed sides for $120 at an auction. I cut off the pocket stakes and bolted the thing in my flat trailer. When not hauling goats, I pull it out and use it in the barn as a kidding/sick stall, while using the flat trailer for other work.

A guy could make something like you did as a bolt-in, and then use it for dual purpose like I do.


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## beorning (Apr 14, 2006)

nice trailer, Bearfootfarm.

I'll be using the trailer for random hauling. Lumber, sheetrock, furniture, et cetera. 

Also brush to the town dump (can't burn where I'm at) The odd load of mulch, and so on.

I think I might try the angle iron method with the thinner decking boards. That will let me keep interior dimensions big enough to lay sheet good flat, and still make it sturdy enough. Weight is an issue. I'm pulling the trailer with a 4cylinder Tacoma.


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## travis91 (Jul 26, 2005)

just a idea why not go too a junkyard and buy a 8 foot fullsize "stepside" truckbed and beef it up and bolt it on


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## Junkmanme (Dec 16, 2006)

If you build a bed of lumber and plywood, you can "seal" it cheaply with a mix of 5 gallons diesel fuel mixed with 1 quart of cheap varnish. Works better than Thompson's Water Seal, is cheaper by far. Just "stinks" for a couple weeks.


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