# What to Look for in a Used Chainsaw



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

I'm chainsaw shopping and have found a few saws that interest me. What do I need to look for when buying used? From what I've read so far, a compression test and checking for cylinder wear would be nice, but how many people would you let disassemble your chainsaw before purchasing? So what is reasonable to look out for when purchasing used? How would the deal go down if you were buying?


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## unioncreek (Jun 18, 2002)

Yes, take a flash light and look at the cylinder walls. Overall how clean it is and if theirs any abuse to it. How easy it starts and operates. To me if a saw doesn't start on the first or second pull it's not worth having.

Bob


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## plowjockey (Aug 18, 2008)

Most people cherish their chain saws.

Unless it is at an estate sale, I'd be wondering why they want to sell it.


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

Inability to start generally tells you all you need to know about a used saw.

If it starts, try cutting something with it. That will generally tell you the rest.


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## dkhern (Nov 30, 2012)

starting is the issue. when you go look at it feel the muffler to see if it is warm (started before you got there) then see how easy it is to start. cutting will be a function of chain and chain sharpness


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## AtomicFarmer (Sep 16, 2012)

Assuming it runs, make sure it has some bar oil in it and run it wide open with the tip of the bar a couple inches from a block wall or something to make sure the bar oiler works. You should see a fine mist of oil on the wall-just the tiniest little drops.


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## Sawmill Jim (Dec 5, 2008)

unioncreek said:


> Yes, take a flash light and look at the cylinder walls. Overall how clean it is and if theirs any abuse to it. How easy it starts and operates. To me if a saw doesn't start on the first or second pull it's not worth having.
> 
> Bob


I have a Stihl that has never started on second pull .No telling the gallons of gas it has had ran threw it . I buy new or did 

Had a O66 i traded off because the compression was greater than the old man pulling the rope .That seamed to happen over night 

Hold saw by the rope if it falls down it has lots of ware .


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Some good tips here. I was planning on looking at a Husqvarna 460 tomorrow that didn't look in too bad of shape. The guy pulled the ad tonight and hasn't emailed me back, so major bummer there. I'd buy new, I would. I don't know if an extra $300-$400 is worth peace of mind. I've come to thrive on suspense. I wouldn't know how to act with a brand new chain saw that starts on the first pull. But I would like to get one that starts and runs.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Our new Husky 455 rancher doesn't start on the very first pull it takes two or three. Considering the new price I'd either want a used saw to be darn near new for half price or not so new for about the quarter of new price. Maybe a little premium for a new chain or bar etc. Either way they should start easy and cut well.


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## Sawmill Jim (Dec 5, 2008)

Ross said:


> Our new Husky 455 rancher doesn't start on the very first pull it takes two or three. Considering the new price I'd either want a used saw to be darn near new for half price or not so new for about the quarter of new price. Maybe a little premium for a new chain or bar etc. Either way they should start easy and cut well.


In the Husky line that 455 is a real winner as far as tested an tried . I always try to find the best highest octane gas too . For fire wood cutting the 455 are hard to beat .

Now in the big saws i know a guy use to buy one and have it souped up before even running it ,but i have seen him cut trees in a good wind and never split one too .That saw was fast .


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

dkhern said:


> cutting will be a function of chain and chain sharpness


There's quite a bit more to it than just the chain and its sharpness .

Clutch condition, sprocket, engine heat, restricted muffler, weak ignition, dirty filter, oil supply, etc.

All reveal themselves when you start trying to use the saw.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

When buying a used saw what I look for is condition of saw over all first. If the saw is real dirty banged up with dents and broken plastic I;ll walk away. Second remove the cover hiding the air filter and see if the filter is clean and in good condition A really dirty caked up air filter says walk away to me. If the seller doesn't even have the ambition to clean the air filter selling a saw why would I think he took care of it during normal use. Second I'd remove the side cover and look at the sprocket and behind the clutch, check the bar brake to make sure it works. Then use a rubber tipped compresstion tester to check compression. Some sellers will allow the removal of the muffler so you can see the bore a bit. Look for scuff marks on the piston too.

I have a 1976 Husky 162 SE, my most beloved chain saw. It will only start on the first pull after it is well warmed up. Shoot it takes a couple of pulles to pull fuel in to the cylinder on a saw that has sat a few days. I also have a 1995 Huskey 55 it won't statrt on the first or even the third pull cold. A 2003 Johnsered 2149T My worst saw takes 9 pulls cold to start at 55F out side. My 2009 Huskey 445 Rancher the newest saw takes at least 4 pulls to start despite the primer bulb on it.

Don't go by how many pulls it takes to start a saw. Do try it out on cutting. If I'm selling a saw the chain will be in good condition and sharp as will be the bar. But if the engine is real wore it won't pull any type of chain quickly and will bog a lot.

 Al


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## bigmoose (Apr 1, 2010)

I have worked on chainsaws for 30 years and if you find one that starts in one pull please sell it to me.LOL. Most of the new epa squish band motors do not crank well. The mufflers have cats in them and the carbs are restriced. Even your high dollar stihl and huskys dont crank with one pull when new. If you want to know the best way to check the condition of a used saw, pull the muffler and look at the cylinder. You can tell if there is cylinder/piston dammage. You can tell if the rings are stuck. You can see if there has been ethanol fuel use by the color of the piston below the rings, or if its been run hot. Its a crap shoot unless you look at the cylinder. Be careful bying older saws, there a lot of saws that you cant get parts for, even some of the newer ones. Most chainsaw repairs can be done with minimal experience and very few tools so some used saws with a few problems can be good deals. If anyone has any chainsaw questions please contact me, I am glad to help anyone any way I can.


God Bless BIGMOOSE


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## blue gecko (Jun 14, 2006)

It has a great rating. We're big husky fans here and I hope you luck into a good deal. Lots of good advice and suggestions given already. 

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/460-rancher/


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

How Do I said:


> I don't know if an extra $300-$400 is worth peace of mind. I've come to thrive on suspense. I wouldn't know how to act with a brand new chain saw that starts on the first pull. But I would like to get one that starts and runs.


Fwiw, I've no regrets on finally spending a decent chunk of change on my then new saw. Mine happens to be a Dolmar, a 5105. Having a saw that starts consistently (3rd pull, it's a new EPA compliant saw), and runs well is just plain wonderfull. 

The time it saves me from repairs and tinkering has more than paid for itself, to me. Leaves me more time and money for tinkering on things I want to play with.


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

I don't loan out my rifle, my hunting dog, my wife or my chain saw. But, when I'm getting rid of any of the above, I doubt you'd want them either. Buy as much of a saw as you can afford, new. Then take good care of it.


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## WestFork (Dec 20, 2012)

I've bought a couple of stihl chain saw at estate sales. I found another last summer... an 026 for $75. It had very little wear. I already have two, so I didn't buy. You can tell when a saw has been beat up. It isn't hard to recognize a saw that has been used lightly. I keep a compression tester in the truck when I'm out garage saling. Comes in handy.

Good luck!


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

blue gecko said:


> It has a great rating. We're big husky fans here and I hope you luck into a good deal. Lots of good advice and suggestions given already.
> 
> http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/460-rancher/



I noticed Lowe's and Tractor Supply use those same exact reviews on their sites. Guess it is meant to influence purchase decisions and we're not supposed to notice that, but I have been lurking at some of the chain saw forums and the owners there do seem very pleased with it.

I'm not really having much luck coming across a used one and have been watching like a hawk. Mostly junk that I'm seeing listed. I mentioned to DW that we might just have to buy new. She said that sounded good to her. I haven't mentioned the price yet though....

That being said, I usually buy bigger items at Big Box stores mainly for the no hassle return policy, which I've been pretty lucky with before. TSC has their saw a little cheaper than Lowe's, but I've never dealt with having to return something there. Anyone have experience with that at Tractor Supply? I just don't want a hassle if I purchase a NIB lemon.


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

Do understand, the Husky saws sold by TSC and Lowes are the cheapest homeowners models. These are not saws meant for hard use. I'm not saying they are inherently bad, they are not. I looked quite hard at the 455 myself.

If the saw breaks, neither Lowes for TSC can do anything to help you fix it. They sell spark plugs, cheap safety chains, and a little oil. 

I'd suggest if you really want a saw for a lifetime and for use, you look at the real chainsaw shops in your area, and consider one of their brands. For they can and will fix it for you when it breaks, and have the parts available for you when you want them.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Chain saws bought at lowe's are returnable for up to 90 days if your not happy with it. Not sure of the return policys at Home Depot or TSC'
I bought my Jonsered from a former Husky dealer. Ya they work on the saw but never even attemped to fix what I called a major problem when I took it in several times, even with in the first 30 daysI owned it.You can buy reconditioned huskys from dealers on E Bay Amazon has several brands you can buy thru them.
Every one doesn't need a XTP saw. Here if you go to a husky dealer you have to order and XTP saw as they just don't carry them as lumbering isn't a big bussiness in the area.

I bought my husky 455 Rancher at lowes and it is now on it's third year. I could not be happer with a chain saw. It has worked well cutting about 14 ricks 4x16-18x8 every winter plus many odd jobs thru out the rest of the year.

My 162 Husky I bought in the fall of 1977 it has cut thousands of ricks of wood over tyhat time frame. It has never been back to a shop ever. I have replaces the bars several times and many many loop of chain one chain sprockit, rebuilt the carb In the late 1980's. Replaces the recoil rope several times also. 
Today it sets waiting for a pair of $8.00 starting dogs that should be here any day now.

My dad bought a o36 sthil in 1976 it dies about 10 years ago when dad took it to the dealer when it wouldn't start. It sets in my to do pile so some day I'll get around to doing a repair on it.

 Al


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## homemaid (Apr 26, 2011)

We have a couple of Stihl saws. One is a 290 one is a 380or390 can't remember for sure. It has a compression button on it. As hubby is getting older he had a hard time starting the saw. So we bought the newer one with the compression button making it easier to pull. We have used Stihl saws for many many years.....


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## wannabechef (Nov 20, 2012)

foxtrapper said:


> Do understand, the Husky saws sold by TSC and Lowes are the cheapest homeowners models. These are not saws meant for hard use. I'm not saying they are inherently bad, they are not. I looked quite hard at the 455 myself.
> 
> If the saw breaks, neither Lowes for TSC can do anything to help you fix it. They sell spark plugs, cheap safety chains, and a little oil.
> 
> I'd suggest if you really want a saw for a lifetime and for use, you look at the real chainsaw shops in your area, and consider one of their brands. For they can and will fix it for you when it breaks, and have the parts available for you when you want them.


Right on, buy from mom and pop shop and you will get support after the sale...if you buy quality stuff you don't need a return policy.


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## ChristieAcres (Apr 11, 2009)

DH would NEVER buy a used Chainsaw, but he was given a few of his late DB's, Stihls, which weren't used much, and well cared for. One is a larger Stihl, purchased shortly before his DB passed away (he was a Logger). DH doesn't think most people take good care of their chainsaws. He takes very good care of his! When he needs parts, as he fixes his own, he only goes to the small shops who have experienced employees, management, and owners. Since we own small businesses, we patronize other small businesses! That is another reason


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Mom and pop shops don't mean you will get good service. Many times the sale is finall so if your saw frys your hand your stuck with it and they ain't fixing it either.

I have never seen a chain break handle melt like this on a saw.








Nor have I ever had to wear an ove glove while running any other saw. But good old mom & pop just said it runs what more you want. If M &P had a return policy they would have made me happy with my money back and they would have had a *HOT SAW. *

Ya need to shop for a dealer just as much as you do a saw.

 Al


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

alleyyooper said:


> Mom and pop shops don't mean you will get good service.


That's true, but you get absolutely none at the likes of Lowes or TSC.


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## ChristieAcres (Apr 11, 2009)

alleyyooper said:


> Mom and pop shops don't mean you will get good service. Many times the sale is finall so if your saw frys your hand your stuck with it and they ain't fixing it either.
> 
> I have never seen a chain break handle melt like this on a saw.
> 
> ...


Fer the record, dear Al, my DH has a lot of experience with chainsaws and his DB wasn't just a Logger but owned the Logging CO. When I wrote this:



> he only goes to the small shops who have *experienced* employees, management, and owners.


This literally means, DH uses shops with folks who have the knowledge, experience, and offer good service. If not, he doesn't use them. We use local small businesses, family-owned whenever possible. Also, being an Industrial Mechanic/Machinist/Welder/old school Auto Mechanic? He fixes almost everything around here, including his saws, but sometimes he needs parts! The old school description? Give the man a muscle car 

If you want to find a good shop, you ask the folks who log for a living! We were referred to the privately owned shop we use, by a local Logger.


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## wannabechef (Nov 20, 2012)

alleyyooper said:


> Mom and pop shops don't mean you will get good service. Many times the sale is finall so if your saw frys your hand your stuck with it and they ain't fixing it either.
> 
> I have never seen a chain break handle melt like this on a saw.
> 
> ...


Looks like you should call the manufacturer and let them know how your dealer is treating you. That would be unacceptable for me at my Stihl dealer.


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