# Propane Lines?



## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

Ok we're wanting to run Line4s for Propane.Do we want to run just Copper or Steel for Main Line and Copper coming off it.And what size?

big rockpile


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## oneokie (Aug 14, 2009)

Use black steel pipe from the tank to the building. (3/4") From there, it depends on local building code. Use copper from the tank regulator to the pipe riser at the tank.


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

Well the Propane Company was going to run Copper from the Tank to the Building.I was thinking running Black Steel from one end to the other,T off and run Copper to what I'm hooking up.

An't no Building Codes.

big rockpile


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

There's a yellow coated copper tubing you can run from the tank. The advantage is if the tank settles or moves at all the copper will flex. Not sure if there's anything wrong with black iron pipe (I don't do gas) its certainly used.


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## oneokie (Aug 14, 2009)

big rockpile said:


> Well the Propane Company was going to run Copper from the Tank to the Building.I was thinking running Black Steel from one end to the other,T off and run Copper to what I'm hooking up.
> 
> An't no Building Codes.
> 
> big rockpile



That will work. Keep all of the T-junctions above ground. Be sure to pressure test the lines after installing.


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## Windy in Kansas (Jun 16, 2002)

DO NOT run any copper line through coal or cinder deposits as they will corrode the copper.

If you will be going into a building make sure you come above ground before entering.

Make sure any regulator at the tank is in good condition and the vent on it is protected from dripping water with the potential to freeze, or ice getting onto it. Better to two stage regulators in case one ruptures a diaphragm. 

If you don't know the risks you may want to have the professionals to do it.


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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

big rockpile said:


> Well the Propane Company was going to run Copper from the Tank to the Building.I was thinking running Black Steel from one end to the other,T off and run Copper to what I'm hooking up.
> 
> An't no Building Codes.
> 
> big rockpile


There may not be any buiding codes but there are propane regulations that you must abide by before you can buy propane. Ask your dealer what to use and why.


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

Old Vet said:


> There may not be any buiding codes but there are propane regulations that you must abide by before you can buy propane. Ask your dealer what to use and why.


Well I called them they said the most they will do is set the Tank,run line from Tank to house after that its my Baby.Basically its the same thing the Electric Company did.

But I think I can get all the information and material from a neighbor.

big rockpile


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## Rocky Fields (Jan 24, 2007)

BR,

I recommend doing it to TN building code, so Hacienda Rockpile will be easier to sell later on when you move on up to the East Side;-)

RF


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## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

many of the codes are there for your safety, not just to cause you problems, 

gas is and propane is dangerous, and propane is more as it settles and can stay in a low area for days if not weeks and then can go boom, pipe it in safely regardless of the code requirements, use the correct pipe, and procedures, (look up gas codes you will probably find many of city's on the net). and get an idea what is recommended,

and have the pipe coming to the house exit the ground before entering the building, If and a leak develops it will follow the pipe right into the houses crawl space or basement, by having it exit the gas will not enter the house only the air out side, (had it happen and I think we were only Min's from blowing up the house)

it is not some thing to take a lax attitude to.


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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

big rockpile said:


> Well I called them they said the most they will do is set the Tank,run line from Tank to house after that its my Baby.Basically its the same thing the Electric Company did.
> 
> But I think I can get all the information and material from a neighbor.
> 
> big rockpile


It varies from state to state but to do it right use copper to the house then use pipe from their on. You will want pipe in the house because if you nail something to a wall you won't break the line like you may with copper.


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## cfabe (Feb 27, 2005)

In every house I've had, the indoor gas piping (natural or propane) was always all black pipe. Never seen copper used for gas lines inside. I don't think I'd like the idea of a flare or compression fitting inside because they can leak more easily than NPT threads & sealer. My setup has a regulator on the tank, copper tubing underground to another regulator on the house, then black pipe from there on.


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

big rockpile said:


> Ok we're wanting to run Line4s for Propane.Do we want to run just Copper or Steel for Main Line and Copper coming off it.And what size?
> 
> big rockpile


Well, in order to properly size the line, one would need to know what you are running off of the line.. 

Typical house hold lines are 3/4" going into the home and then 1/2" to the individual appliances. 

You will need to have a drip leg at each appliance unless it has one built into it, like some of the new stoves.

I can get you a copy(pdf) of the International Fuel Gas Codes 2003 (part of the IBC) if you like. Even though it is out of date it still has valid info in it..


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

Well I've been running two Heaters off 100# Bottles.I was thinking of putting in another Heater and Propane Cookstove,I may still do this but just get another 100# Tank and just have 4 Tanks which will do me all Winter with Wood Heat.

Thing is I just found a Gas Company that will come out here I figured a Big Tank would be easier than messing with the Bottles.Thing is its going to cost me about just as much settingt up for the Bottles.

big rockpile


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## Rick (May 10, 2002)

big rockpile said:


> Well I've been running two Heaters off 100# Bottles.I was thinking of putting in another Heater and Propane Cookstove,I may still do this but just get another 100# Tank and just have 4 Tanks which will do me all Winter with Wood Heat.
> 
> Thing is I just found a Gas Company that will come out here I figured a Big Tank would be easier than messing with the Bottles.Thing is its going to cost me about just as much settingt up for the Bottles.
> 
> big rockpile


We purchased a really nice 2 burner stove with an oven able to bake up to 350 deg F. for $230 from Sportsman's Guide . It is intended for outdoor use only.


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## Curtis B (Aug 15, 2008)

I am suprised that nobody has mentioned the yellow poly pipe for gas. The end fittings are a bit expensive, but the pipe is cheap. I don't know how far you need to run, but it is easy to pull with a plow, or bore. You end up with no fittings under ground accept at the begining and the end. I have only ever seen black pipe used inside also.


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## OkieDavid (Jan 15, 2007)

I find it interesting to see the differing responses. I would think there would be some national standard (with possibly more restrictions inside some municipal jurisdictions). My set up is a small piece of copper tubing from the tank regulator into 3/4" black pipe into the house. Each appliance then has a flared fitting going back to copper (presumably so it's easier to slide out and replace the stove for example). Only snag I ever hit was when I used a new supplier and they insisted on a free survey of my "stuff" before they would fill the tank. He informed me that each appliance would need a shut off valve where it went from black pipe to copper before the appliance....made sense so as I've replaced appliances over the years I've installed shut off valves.


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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

OkieDavid said:


> I find it interesting to see the differing responses. I would think there would be some national standard (with possibly more restrictions inside some municipal jurisdictions). My set up is a small piece of copper tubing from the tank regulator into 3/4" black pipe into the house. Each appliance then has a flared fitting going back to copper (presumably so it's easier to slide out and replace the stove for example). Only snag I ever hit was when I used a new supplier and they insisted on a free survey of my "stuff" before they would fill the tank. He informed me that each appliance would need a shut off valve where it went from black pipe to copper before the appliance....made sense so as I've replaced appliances over the years I've installed shut off valves.


Their are National Guidelines that the Propane company's should follow. Some of them don't. They are used for over the road hauling and industrial seatings.


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

OkieDavid said:


> I find it interesting to see the differing responses. I would think there would be some national standard (with possibly more restrictions inside some municipal jurisdictions). My set up is a small piece of copper tubing from the tank regulator into 3/4" black pipe into the house. Each appliance then has a flared fitting going back to copper (presumably so it's easier to slide out and replace the stove for example). Only snag I ever hit was when I used a new supplier and they insisted on a free survey of my "stuff" before they would fill the tank. He informed me that each appliance would need a shut off valve where it went from black pipe to copper before the appliance....made sense so as I've replaced appliances over the years I've installed shut off valves.


There is! and it's called the IBC (International Building codes)

These were adopted a couple of years ago by both the Federal and State Governments..

Under the IBC is the 
IRC - Internationl Residential Codes
IEBC - International Existing Building Codes
IFC - Int. Fire Codes
IMC - Int. Mechanical Code
IPC - Int. Plumbing Code
IFGC- Int. Fuel Gas Code
IPMC - Int. Property Maintenance Code
IECC - Int. Energy Conservation Code
IZC - Int. Zoning Code
IPSDC - Int. Private Sewage Disposal Code
IUWIC - Int. Urban-Wildland Interface Code
And so on and so on...

The ones I have are from 2003 and I know there are updated versions...


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## cfabe (Feb 27, 2005)

There are national and international standards... but it is up to the local government to choose which version of which code, if any, to enforce. For example the 2008 NEC (national electric code) is out, many states are using it now but Michigan has not adopted it yet. And actually they adopt a customized version of it that they call the Michigan Electric Code.


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## 2story (Apr 6, 2005)

"Yellow poly" pipping is CSST, corrigated stainless steel tubing-expensive but good.
Copper is ok
Black Iron is good.
Each appliance should have a shut-off valve, in an acessible location(behind the appliance.
Sizing is dependent upon appliances used but what has been stated should work
Many areas are requiring the grounding of gas lines at the riser(the entrance into the structure) as your would your electrical service.


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## GoldenCityMuse (Apr 15, 2009)

Black Pipe in the house. I did it myself, took my time, used teflon tape, and had different length nipples because I did not had a pipe threading machine. Worked fine, no worries about screwing a drywall screw thru iron black pipe.

Be sure to use gas rated valves for each outlet.


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