# Stock tank heater on an extension cord?



## willow_girl (Dec 7, 2002)

The manufacturers always say not to use an extension cord with a tank heater, but I really really need to move my tank, so ... has anyone done this? What about using a heavy-duty cord? Even just 5 or 10 feet would make a difference. 

I'd be plugging into a GFI outlet, BTW, so I don't think I'd burn the barn down ... and if I did, the structure has a taxable value of only $30, so ...


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## pookshollow (Aug 22, 2005)

We've used extension cords with stock-tank heaters, heated buckets etc. and never had a problem. Let's face it, unless you have a custom-designed barn with electric outlets placed _exactly _where you need them, you're going to have to use extension cords! 

I imagine that warning label is just to cover their behinds in case you do something stupid, like using a frayed cord.


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

As long as the cord is large enough I can't see any reason why you can't use a cord. Get one that is just long enough that can carry enough amps. It's early but I think the equation is watts divided by 110 volts equals amps. The wattage needed should be on the heater. The extension cord should have an amperage rating on it too. Most that I've seen are 15 amps.


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## Tiempo (May 22, 2008)

We do it..don't really have an option.


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## Batt (Sep 8, 2006)

As long as you don't use one of those 97Â¢ "Arsonist specials" from wal-mart and the like. Make it at least #14 guage, and try to limit it to 25' or so. The longer it is the less it will carry. All but 1 of ours is on extension cord...no problems. Probably not necessary, but try to keep the connection dry and where those nosy goats can't get to it.


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## Kris in MI (May 30, 2002)

We provided power to a shed for five years via a 100' orange (heavy duty, outdoor) extension cord. Dh had wired the shed for a light bulb, an outlet to run an electric fencer, and an outlet to plug a tank heater into. Never had any fires or blown circuits from running all this off that one long cord (which plugged into the outdoor outlet on the back of our house).


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## arabian knight (Dec 19, 2005)

Same here for over 10 years now, just get a heavy duty one that is all. No smaller then 12 ga. And 10 ga would be even better. No worries.


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## willow_girl (Dec 7, 2002)

OK, will do. Thanks!


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

If youre worried that a regular "extension cord" is not sufficient, just get some underground rated 12-2 Romex w/ground, and put plugs on each end.
It wont be as flexible, but will handle the load with no problems


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## Gary in ohio (May 11, 2002)

I wouldnt put anything execpt a 10ga extension cord in...


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## Gianni (Dec 9, 2009)

Use the shortest cord that you can get by with. All the elec. has to travel 100 feet through a 100' cord even if your load is only 15' away.


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## Wolf mom (Mar 8, 2005)

I use one - I should say two - one 25 ft & one 50 foot. I duck tape the connections so they are waterproof in the snow & rain, and also keep it elevated above ground a little. I'm really leary of electricity. It's worked fine for years.

I also use an extention cord on my heat lamp for the chickens - run it through a plastic pipe under the driveway.


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## rambler (Jan 20, 2004)

I'd want a good 12 ga outdoor extension cord. No longer than needed. Be sure it is grounded all the way - that 3rd lug on the cord. Do _not_ use underground wire - it is brittle & doesn't like flexing. Use real extension cord, and like they say, good stuff, not the cheap Christmas lights junk sold for $5 this time of year.

Livestock are very very sensitive to stray voltage. You _need_ the ground wire to be working allt he way.

The longer a cord is, the electricity wants to waste energy on heating the cord insead of delivering that electricity to the end. This is called internal resistance, or voltage drop. The longer a cord is, the fatter the wire needs to be. So don't skimp on a thin wire. 12 gauge should cover most any 120v needs - unless you get to 200 feet or more, then you have all sorts of issues to deal with....

Livestock tend to play with wire they can reach. Extension cords have that plug in, a way to get to the bare wires. Sets up an extra sfety hazard.

If you are smart & use the right cord and keep the livestock away from it, it works. You need to be careful mixing water, electricity, and livestock. A lot can go wrong. For liability issues, the waterer makers don't want to get into an extension cord added to all the other issues.....

--->Paul


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## Topaz Farm (Jan 27, 2005)

We use an extension cord. We were using right 100 ft of it.

But we re-arranged things and it right close now. We use outdoor extension cords.


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## DixyDoodle (Nov 15, 2005)

I second using a ground wire. My horses wouldn't touch our heated trough til we put a ground in it. I just use a metal rod (stuck into the ground about 5") with a metal clip to attach a piece of copper wire just long enough to reach to the bottom of the trough.

I also use an extension, I use a heavy duty-rated outdoor one. I also cover the outlet and where it plugs into the heater cord with a plastic bag to protect it from ice and snow.


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## Beeman (Dec 29, 2002)

The cord on the tank heater is probaly 4-5' long, how in the world could you have an outlet that close?


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

One other thing. The issue with using a long cord is the wire will develop heat. Of course if the weather is cold what difference would it make.

We run ours about 250 ft on a 12/3 with no issues. This is all outside on the ground so it could be different in a barn or other structure were the wire heating some could cause an issue.


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## SolarGary (Sep 8, 2005)

Hi,
I don't see why an adequately size extension cord would not work. The heaters I've see are about 1500 watts, so 1500/120 = 12.5 amps. If its not very far, and 14 gauge should be OK, if further, a 12 gauge.

OR -- build an insulated, solar stock tank:
This is the one I built for our neighbors horses:
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/WaterHeating/SolarHorseTank/SolarHorseTank.htm

More of them:
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/WaterHeating/water_heating.htm#Animals

They work very well even here in cold MT.

Gary


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## willow_girl (Dec 7, 2002)

> The cord on the tank heater is probaly 4-5' long, how in the world could you have an outlet that close?


It's called planning, my friend! 

When I had the barn wired up, I put an outlet right next to the overhead door, so I could put the stock tank up against it and snake the cord inside. I've had the barnyard scraped out a couple times since then, though, and now the ground isn't level there anymore, so I need to move the tank out a couple feet. 

Incidentally, I recently bought one of those 110 gal. black Rubbermaid-type tanks at Tractor Supply, and have been pleased by the way it doesn't freeze up as quickly as the steel tanks do. I think the black rubber absorbs a bit of heat from the sun. I'd hate to put a tank heater in one, though, even with the baffle -- my cows like to play with the heater, and I'm sure that they'd find a way to burn a hole in the side of the tank.


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## arabian knight (Dec 19, 2005)

willow_girl said:


> I'd hate to put a tank heater in one, though, even with the baffle -


 You mean it does not have a Drain Plug???
If it does those Drain Plug Heaters work GREAT. That way there is Nothing any animal can Play With until the Water level gets as low as the drain plug.
I have 2 - 150 Gal poly tubs and have been using the heaters that Screw into the Drain Plug for years now~! Wonderful invention.











> Drain Plug Mount
> Stock Tank De-Icer
> 
> This De-icer is designed to mount through the drain hole in stock tanks. By mounting through the drain hole, the electrical cord is kept out of the water and the De-icer cannot be thrown from the tank. The De-icer comes with a built-in thermostat and special six foot power cord. 1500 W, 120 V.
> ...


http://www.kyhorse.com/store/equipment/de-icers.htm


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## willow_girl (Dec 7, 2002)

Oh wow, those are pretty neat! Never noticed them before. Perfect solution to my pesky cow problem!


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