# Preparing pasture for raising beef - help please!



## Filson (May 22, 2013)

Hey guys and gals,

My wife and I have recently moved into a 40 acre farm in NE Washington state, and while we were both raised out in the country, neither of us where ever around a farm. We plan on raising a couple beef steers for the first time in our lives, and on our farm we have a large (to us) 13 acre field that we plan to utilize for our beef.

While I don't know what I don't know, as I said before, I do realize the field looks rough. The previous owners used to raise sheep around the place, but it has been little used over the past few years, except last year, they let the neighbors cattle free-range across the property.

Some of the issues I see, is that in some areas of the field, there are a lot of weeds of some kind (I'm not from this side of the mountains, and am unfamiliar with a lot of the plant life around here). There are several different types of weeds I see, and while some of them are in very small quantities spread about, some are thick and look like they're choking out the grass. I'll post a bunch of pics below of specific weeds, and general shots of the field so you can see what I'm talking about.

Also, there are tons of ground squirrels in the lower part of the field (I'd estimate around 200-300 holes, some pretty small, but a few large enough to swallow a soccer ball. I need to contact the local office to see if they are protected in this area, if I need a permit, or whatever. But according to several of the locals verbally (as well as me seeing it in action) it's pretty normal for farmers in the area to shoot them. Only reason I brought up the ground squirrels is for confirmation that they can be a hazard to the cattle when we get them, not methods for taking care of them, as that is a local jurisdiction issue.

Anyway, back to the field itself. Another thing that may complicate preparing the field for use, is our well, as well as an underground spring/holding tank are placed in two different locations within the field. I'd assume cattle should be prevent from getting too close to our freshwater source?

So what things would you guys/gals recommend doing to start prepping the field for beef? Would you spray the weeds with something? Would the cattle naturally cut down on the weeds over time?

I plan to implement a rotational grazing method, but will save that for another post. Thanks for your time!










The purplish-blue line is the property boundary. The red lines are current fencing. The whole property is slopped. The top left corner is the highest point. The property extends further up, but was just focusing on the field itself. The large field in the bottom right is right about 13 acres.










This is looking up the hill from just outside the field. Much of the fencing needs reinforcement. Also, the tumbleweed-like stuff is very dense (as seen in the pic) for the lower part of the field. I have no idea what kind of plant this is.










These are dotted around roughly half the field.










Not sure what these tall things are either.










The spring/holding tank, looking down across the big field at the house.










Looking north. Showing the amount of weeds in most of the field (some areas have more, some less).










Looking south.










The very southwest corner of the field looks almost mowed or recently grazed. (Poor picture quality makes it look like the short grass extends down towards the house quite a ways, but it turns into waist-high stuff half-way down.










Our drilled well - should I put a fence up around?

Anyway, enough rambling and picture-showing. Sorry for all the silly newbie questions, and thanks for any help!


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## Filson (May 22, 2013)

No replies... Should I assume that I'm over-thinking the whole thing, and that the field is good to go?


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## Gravytrain (Mar 2, 2013)

Filson said:


> No replies... Should I assume that I'm over-thinking the whole thing, and that the field is good to go?


Maybe. I'm not familiar with your area, your forage, OR tumbleweed. Make sure your perimeter fence is robust with electric. Get a couple rolls of polywire/polyrope, some reels, and some pigtail posts. Either set up a lane with water/mineral and shelter or make it portable daily. Start with a couple of steers.

Give them 1000-1500 sq. ft. a day and see how much forage is left at the end of the day. If it's overgrazed, then move them twice per day or give them a slightly larger area. With that much area and so few cows you should be able to give the pasture a good amount of rest between grazings and your pasture should improve. You may want to overseed just before or just after moving the cattle. Dragging a chain or spike harrow after you've moved the cattle will help distribute the manure more evenly. You also may want to either spot treat weedy areas or just mow after moving the animals as well.

You'll know how you're doing by how your pasture and your animals look after awhile. Read the rotational grazing sticky in this forum. It will impart far more wisdom than you could possibly get from me on this subject.


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## idigbeets (Sep 3, 2011)

It actually does not look THAT bad... it does need some diversity, clover, alfalfa, and some other grasses. The fence looks in rough shape in those photos... I'd mow off the dead stuff, and see how things grow, give them a small area as suggested. Also, make sure you have get some hay stored up....


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## G. Seddon (May 16, 2005)

Looks like a beautiful property to me! I agree with idigbeets on the mowing, but first 
I'd get the agricultural extension agent out to look at it and make recommendations on getting it ready for grazing.


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## Wanda (Dec 19, 2002)

Since most of us have no experience in your location ,it is hard to give specific answers. As a whole the pasture looks to be suitable for grazing beef steers. I would look at other pasture in your area as a rough comparison. As far as the well area I would put up a small fence to keep them from doing any damage.


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## Patchouli (Aug 3, 2011)

The fuzzy leaved plant is Mullein. It has some uses as an herb but it basically grows in places with bad soil. Looks like you may have some dock too. No tumbleweeds those are just stalks left from various useless weeds. What was on the land last? The soil looks poor to me from what is growing there and probably over grazed.


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## Filson (May 22, 2013)

Thanks for the replies,

The previous owners of the place used to raise sheep here, but last year they let a neighbor bring their 50 head of cattle on to the property to free range. 

The fence really does need a lot of work, some areas, the fence is all the way on the ground. Some of the new fence posts that are in place from the previous owners are only in the ground a few inches to a foot and are already loose. 

Gravytrain - thanks for the info! Sounds like I have some supplies to pick up =)

Idigbeets - Thank you, just as a rough average, how much hay should I have stored up, per head, per day? I'll times that by how long I may need it for this area during the winter.

Thanks again everyone!


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## Gravytrain (Mar 2, 2013)

Filson said:


> Thanks for the replies,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You're welcome. Just to emphasize, MAKE SURE your outside perimeter fence is darn near bulletproof before you make interior paddocks with single strand polywire/polyrope. It really is no fun chasing down livestock in the middle of a thunderstorm in the middle of the night. Guess how I know? If they are secure on your property it really doesn't matter if they jump the polywire, which will probably be rare.

As far as hay, figure 2.5% of their weight in hay per day. Then figure they'll be eating hay a month or two longer than you think they will...at least for the first year or two. Remember, even though things start greening up early in the spring, you don't really want to graze until your grass is AT LEAST 8-10" high for most varieties. It's better to have too much hay than too little. You can always feed some of it in the summer on pasture to stimulate the rumen and help build your pasture (as long as it isn't too weedy).


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## M88A1 (May 21, 2012)

Do you have a breed in mind you want to raise? That can determine how many cattle you can handle and do you plan to over-winter them?


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## idigbeets (Sep 3, 2011)

Filson said:


> Thanks for the replies,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Full grown cattle should be eating around 3% body weight of dry matter, little more during lactations. 

We feed high moisture baleage of alfalfa, clover, orchard grass, sometimes barley/vetch bales, 4x5, which is baled around 40% moisture. So we feed 2 full bales per day for approx 30-35 brood cows and their calves. In the winter we will also feed a dry round bale as needed, go through about 12-15 a winter. 

The steers and replacement heifers are of various sizes, about 25 of them and they get a full bale per day. 

If you are feeding squares, there are approx. 15 square bales to 1 round bale.


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## Spamela (Nov 23, 2013)

What a beautiful place! Jealous!


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## idigbeets (Sep 3, 2011)

If you haven't decided on a breed, I'd go with Angus personally, or a cross like LimFlex or Brangus as they can withstand being outdoors 24/7 w/out shelter.


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## Filson (May 22, 2013)

Thanks for the information guys!

For a breed I will most likely go Angus or Highland, though Angus is by far the most common in the area, so that will probably be what ends up happening.

I'm strictly interested in raising beef, not milk (at least for the time). I am not sure how long I will keep them, but I think I'll be aiming for 2-3 years each. I'd like to do a longer finish on corn feed to increase marbling. I'll try straight pasture fed too at some time, but I've always had the notion to want to try corn fed, sense the idea of raising beef came to mind. 

My ultimate goal is to grow my family's yearly beef needs, that is both as high of grade of meat as I can produce (I realize it wont actually be graded, but you know what I mean) while also being free of any growth hormones and such.

I'm a BBQ and grilling junky and I looove highly marbled meat. I'd love to fill my freezer every year with tastier meat than I can find anywhere locally, even if that kicks up the cost a bit.

Side note: I realize on a 1200lb live weight steer, I could expect around 450-550lbs of freezer meat, which is about right for my family for the year... But just how long does beef stay good in the freezer??


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## JulieLou42 (Mar 28, 2005)

Filson said:


> Thanks for the information guys!
> 
> For a breed I will most likely go Angus or Highland, though Angus is by far the most common in the area, so that will probably be what ends up happening.
> 
> ...


Ground beef lasts and tastes great for 2 years...speaking for personal experience here...but all other cuts, the fat tastes a bit off after six months, but it isn't harmful to eat.


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## JulieLou42 (Mar 28, 2005)

Filson said:


> Thanks for the information guys!
> 
> For a breed I will most likely go Angus or Highland, though Angus is by far the most common in the area, so that will probably be what ends up happening.
> 
> ...


Ground beef lasts and tastes great for 2 years...speaking from personal experience here...but all other cuts, the fat tastes a bit off after six months, but it isn't harmful to eat, that I know of.


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## AngusLover (Jan 12, 2014)

Filson said:


> Side note: I realize on a 1200lb live weight steer, I could expect around 450-550lbs of freezer meat, which is about right for my family for the year... But just how long does beef stay good in the freezer??



We have meat sit in our freezer for 2-3 years and it's just fine. A lot probably depends on how it's wrapped though. We go old school paper wrapping.


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## WadeFisher (Sep 26, 2013)

DoubleR said:


> We have meat sit in our freezer for 2-3 years and it's just fine. A lot probably depends on how it's wrapped though. We go old school paper wrapping.


Professionally vacuum packed and flash froze to -30F will last the longest. Most processors offer this service.

And if your going to keep it longer then usual, make sure you get a home freezer that holds -10F or lower.


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## WadeFisher (Sep 26, 2013)

Filson;
FIRST;Soil analysis then amend as recommended for pH and Nutrients.

Keep weeds mowed and the grasses should fill in nicely. Over-seed if you want to encourage other species of grass. This is easy and inexpensive.
If your only raising a few beef for yourself on 13 acres I'm not sure you need to do an intensive rotation. I am too lazy to move animals every few days but I have the luxury of more acres then the animals need so I only move between a few pastures on a monthly basis. Each situation is different.
BUT.
You MUST have your perimeter fence "bullet proof" as previously stated!
For me the_ minimum_ on the perimeter is 3 strands of electric. This is a minimum and you should check it regularly. Physically walk (drive) the perimeter and test electric output with a fence tester as often as you can. Especially after a storm.

Do you have a tractor?
A small tractor with a mower and a spreading does _alot_ of pasture rehabilitation and maintenance. With a 40 acre homestead it would be a must-have on my list.


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## Rocky Fields (Jan 24, 2007)

The sloped property really brings out the beautiful view.

Put fencing around your pipe stubs. Grow some corn for finishing the calves.


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## AngusLover (Jan 12, 2014)

WadeFisher said:


> Professionally vacuum packed and flash froze to -30F will last the longest. Most processors offer this service.
> 
> And if your going to keep it longer then usual, make sure you get a home freezer that holds -10F or lower.



Our processes does flash freeze it. Maybe that's the difference. I assumed all processors did this anymore. 
We did the vacuum package a steer ago and got freezer burn and off tasting fat. We weren't impressed. Went back to paper wrapped.


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## oregon woodsmok (Dec 19, 2010)

There's not much to eat, there.

I can see some knapweed and some mullein and suggest that you spot spray that with herbicide before you bring the cattle. Roundup makes a blackberry killer that will kill knapweed if you keep after it. It doesn't do any good to pull it. Another plant will come up from every little bit of root that is left in the ground.

I'd top seed and hope for some rain. I like the native bluegrass and some orchard grass for pasture on the dry side of the PNW. You can put out some seed oats, too, to give the pasture a jump start. It will give you some nice forage but it won't come back the next year.

That's a beautiful property but the pasture looks badly over-grazed. It will come back if you baby it for a couple of years. Don't put too many animals on it until it recovers. ( 2 cows won't be a problem this year, but 50 head is flat out abuse.)


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## oregon woodsmok (Dec 19, 2010)

Filson, if you are going to top seed, go down to the feed store or Big R and buy a copy of The Capitol Press newspaper. In the back, in the classified section, the grass seed growers advertise and you can buy pasture grass seed direct from the grower.

They might all be sold out this time of year, but later in the summer, you can get the very freshest seed at a reasonable price.


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## Filson (May 22, 2013)

Thanks for all the replies, everyone!

I don't plan on getting any steers to raise this year, and am thinking more in the 2-3 year range. That gives me some time to fix up the pasture, fencing, and the time to do other stuff around the farm (not to mention time to learn a bit).

The big issue right now, is that we do not have a tractor yet. I am active on tractor forum learning about things there before making a purchase. I've already realized that due to the things I want to do with the property with a tractor, the size of land (may be buying the neighboring 20 acres as well), and so on, that I will eventually need more tractor than I can afford any time soon. That's fine, I don't mind saving up a bit, but for now, we'll be picking up something that will get us by on the cheap.

Once we get a tractor, I'll mow the field to chop those weeds down. If I top seed - what all equipment would I need to get? Sounds like it would be pretty helpful.

As for keeping the meat - I'll need to check the chest freezer we have down in the cellar to see how cold it can keep things. Thanks for the input! Makes me feel better that meat will last longer than I was thinking.


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## idigbeets (Sep 3, 2011)

I'd get a 3pt sickle bar mower. You'll find you get faster regrowth using a sickle mower vs a brushhog mower. If you are making hay you *could* use the sickle to cut and then need a rake and a baler. In my neck of the woods a field ready sm. square baler is about 2500, rake probably around 1500-2500 unless you go with a rotary rake and you're more like 5k. 

I'd look for about a 70hp tractor IMO.


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

If you're really concerned about the weeds, you could throw a few goats out there and they'll eat up all of the weeds over the course of the summer. You could then sell them again, keep them, or even eat them.


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## oregon woodsmok (Dec 19, 2010)

Filson said:


> ......... If I top seed - what all equipment would I need to get? Sounds like it would be pretty helpful........


I've top seeded 40 acres with just a 5 gallon bucket and my hand, to hand broadcast the seed.

It is more fun with a tractor and a seed spreader, but it can be tossed out there by hand. With a little practice, you can get a nice even coverage by hand broadcasting.

In fact, I can get a more even coverage with hand broadcasting than I can get with a spreader. It's just that it involves a lot of walking and swinging of your arm. Builds character, as they say.


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## WadeFisher (Sep 26, 2013)

oregon woodsmok said:


> I've top seeded 40 acres with just a 5 gallon bucket and my hand, to hand broadcast the seed.


You are more of a man than me! :yuck:



> It is more fun with a tractor and a seed spreader, but it can be tossed out there by hand. With a little practice, you can get a nice even coverage by hand broadcasting.


I use a 50 hp tractor that has 3pt hitch, pto driven broadcaster. The kind of broadcaster you get at the Tractor Supply for $400.
I fertilize and seed with the spreader.



> In fact, I can get a more even coverage with hand broadcasting than I can get with a spreader. It's just that it involves a lot of walking and swinging of your arm. Builds character, as they say.


:gaptooth:

If you are going to hand broadcast get the 'Earthway' over the shoulder spreader. I have had one for several years and it is much better than others I have had. You can cover a lot of ground with this and it is not much money.

Oregon Woodsmok makes a very valid point. Where there is a will there is a way. And it doesn't have to be expensive or complicated.


One other thing OP, if you bought 40 acres and are looking to acquire 20 more then how can buying a tractor not have been built into the plan. Or is land really that cheap where you are? You can get a good used tractor in our area for $2500 that would do all the pasture work you want.


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## WadeFisher (Sep 26, 2013)

Filson;
Planing ahead as you are doing is great. That will give you lots of time to get it just the way you want. 
b u t
A pasture with no livestock will take more mowing than one with livestock.


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## sassafras manor (Dec 5, 2009)

Once your fences are secure I agree with the goat comment. They will choose broadleafs over grasses and will do a great job cleaning up the weeds. My best pastures are those that I am able to run the goats in after the cattle are moved out.


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## Filson (May 22, 2013)

Man oh man, ton's of great replies, thanks guys!

Oregon woodsmok - Thanks for the info, I'm not sure I could stomach doing it all by hand lol, but I'm sure I could figure out a way.

Wadefisher - the biggest concern by far was wanting to get some elbow room (original reason for moving in the first place). We physically looked (a lot of it was just pulling up to the place and looking at it from the driveway) at over 80 properties throughout Idaho and Washington. We originally made an offer on another place in the area that had 20 acres and a new house on it, and they seller was completely unwilling to budge from their original asking price (even our realtor told us this before making an offer, but we thought we'd try after doing a walk-through and liking it). 

Anyway, we didn't get it which turned into a blessing in disguise. We found this place, absolutely fell in love with it, fell in love with the land and the house (and the 40'x40' shop haha) We bought this place with the 40 acres, and the neighboring 20 acres was up for sale too. The neighboring 20 acres sits at the top of the hill where the field is, and we were concerned with someone buying the property to build a house up there for the view. That'd definitely put a crimp in our elbow room that we just managed to get, so we went for it.

On a strict personal preference level, I'd be fine not buying a tractor at all for awhile if it means being able to buy the land. Land first, tractor and such later. The land can sit for a few years unused until I get a tractor and am able to start working on it to get it in shape.

The 20 acres will also increase our field size from roughly 13 acres to about 24 acres, and increase our woodlot by about 9 acres as well. I'll have just as much forest to manage as pasture.

As for the tractor itself, I'll probably start looking for an 8N or similar to start with (I've seen them for $1500-1800 around here). But will be looking to replace it with something bigger down the road.

I think goats are definitely in order, sounds like a great plan!

Thanks again everyone, for all the help!


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## Dreamfarm (Dec 10, 2011)

I am in Stevens county and just arrived.to do the same as you with an overgrazed pasture. This. Photo coold be my land. It looks the same with weeds. Glad for all of this advice. Best of luck to you and keep us posted


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## Filson (May 22, 2013)

Dreamfarm said:


> I am in Stevens county and just arrived.to do the same as you with an overgrazed pasture. This. Photo coold be my land. It looks the same with weeds. Glad for all of this advice. Best of luck to you and keep us posted


Cool deal, where you located in the county? We're out on HW 25 :nanner:


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## Dreamfarm (Dec 10, 2011)

395 south of colville. Was over in rice yesterday buying sheep to help with the weeds. Beautiful drive. Got a letter last week from the weed board to inform me i had weeds i guess in case i didn't know


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## Filson (May 22, 2013)

Dreamfarm said:


> 395 south of colville. Was over in rice yesterday buying sheep to help with the weeds. Beautiful drive. Got a letter last week from the weed board to inform me i had weeds i guess in case i didn't know


Did you at least send Captain Obvious a reply letter thanking them for letting you know? :thumb:

Yeah you were right in our area, we're right off the Addy-Gifford road, just a few miles from HW 25.

I just came inside from talking to the neighbor that is letting his cows out on the rest of his land (borders ours). We need to get our fence fixed up so they don't work their way down on our property and get on our already over-grazed pasture. I think I have more work to do, sooner than I thought lol.


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## oregon woodsmok (Dec 19, 2010)

I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet. Many farmers with 40 acres do not invest in tractor and equipment. On the rare times that they need a tractor, they hire a custom farmer. (in the PNW, at least)

For a pasture with some cattle, you won't need a tractor all that many times in a year.


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## Filson (May 22, 2013)

oregon woodsmok said:


> I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet. Many farmers with 40 acres do not invest in tractor and equipment. On the rare times that they need a tractor, they hire a custom farmer. (in the PNW, at least)
> 
> For a pasture with some cattle, you won't need a tractor all that many times in a year.


Yeah, I don't think I'll need it nearly as much as a full-time farmer or anything. But it'll be seeing a fair bit of use, probably in the 10-20 hours a week range.

My neighbor offered to compensate us if we'd let his cattle in our field for awhile. He didn't say how much (I don't think it'd be much). And with our field already so burnt out and over-grazed, I just politely declined.

Still haven't signed on the dotted line for the adjoining 20 acres yet, but it's getting there. I'll keep you all posted when I find out more.


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## G. Seddon (May 16, 2005)

Whatever you end up doing with this and the (hopefully) additional 20 acres, you've got a lovely place and it will get even better! Please keep taking photos to share here.


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## Filson (May 22, 2013)

G. Seddon said:


> Whatever you end up doing with this and the (hopefully) additional 20 acres, you've got a lovely place and it will get even better! Please keep taking photos to share here.


Thank you. I really do feel blessed/lucky to be here. My wife grew up in the suburbs of Seattle and always wanted to be out in the country. I grew up in a somewhat rural area north of Seattle (where her family ended up moving to when she was in her early teens). We ended up meeting in high school, and became fast friends. We each used to talk about how we'd like to move to some place actually "in the country" with great weather (both summer weather and proper winter weather lol). We used to describe our own versions of "paradise" and it was pretty close to the same dream. We had a lot in common and ended up hitting it off in high school. =)

The one thing my wife and I did not like growing up in the Puget Sound was never really having 4 seasons. We were tired of the cloudy days and the 4-7 days a week of light rain from October through May (after having kids we liked it even less, as it made it difficult to get out and do much with the boys). 

Anyway, as the years went on, we eventually found our way to Boise by following the in-laws. We liked the better weather, but missed the mountains and trees, and we both wanted a solid 4 seasons. After driving throughout all of Idaho and a good bit of Washington and NE Oregon, we found our place here and it instantly felt like "home". We knew we found our paradise.

We also wanted more elbow room, and going from just over an acre to 40, we found it. Things are looking really promising on the other 20 acre parcel too, though I won't let myself get too excited until we actually sign lol.

We also got news last night, that my wife's parents have decided to move from Boise up to this area. I think that'll help the family dynamics a bit, though I hope they don't end up just down the street. :thumb:

Anyway, I didn't want to bombard the thread with pics, but if you'd like to see more, I'll throw some up below. Thanks!


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## G. Seddon (May 16, 2005)

Wow, even better than the first batch. And you have a helper!!!

The reason I mentioned checking with the extension service in a previous post is that the agricultural extension agent's office is usually experienced in providing advice and direction for your specific goals and can point you to the right people or agencies to help you with water issues and how to protect them, fencing, pastures, etc. Washington State University Extension looks like a fairly large organization. I hope you'll get in touch with them if you have not already done so; getting started early in the season will jumpstart your plans.

House and garden area are just lovely and offer a glimpse of what your future livestock have in store for them on the rest of your acreage. Envious of your views and opportunities! I think you'll do very well with it!


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## Filson (May 22, 2013)

G. Seddon said:


> Wow, even better than the first batch. And you have a helper!!!
> 
> The reason I mentioned checking with the extension service in a previous post is that the agricultural extension agent's office is usually experienced in providing advice and direction for your specific goals and can point you to the right people or agencies to help you with water issues and how to protect them, fencing, pastures, etc. Washington State University Extension looks like a fairly large organization. I hope you'll get in touch with them if you have not already done so; getting started early in the season will jumpstart your plans.
> 
> House and garden area are just lovely and offer a glimpse of what your future livestock have in store for them on the rest of your acreage. Envious of your views and opportunities! I think you'll do very well with it!


Thanks for taking the time to reply! I actually have not contacted my local extension office yet, nor the WSU extension. I'll definitely need to do that soon.

I have an appointment with the local DNR guy to come walk my woodlot with me to help me make up a forest management plan. I have tons to do out there too, never mind working on my shop and stuff down around the house lol. Gettin' busy! :thumb::banana:


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