# Tell me about Saanen goats



## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

Got an incredible offer, 2 yearling does in exchange for the Narragansette hen turkey. Even to just butcher the does I would come out way ahead. But we have been considering a goat or two to keep weeds and brush down. We had thought about dairy goats and that's what Saanens are according to my research. Also relatively small goats too, right? The owner said about the size of a large collie. I've got no problem butchering them, but would like the brush clearing and milk from them. (I do know they have to kid before you can milk them) I've got a place we can set up for them. 

I know I would have to provide feed and water for them. And shelter, I know they can catch cold and die from being out in the rain and wet. I know dogs and coyotes would kill them if they could get to them. What else are the essentials?


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## madness (Dec 6, 2006)

Basic essentials: shelter, feed (grain for milkers), fresh water and minerals. They also need regular hoof trimming and a lot of people vaccinate. The most common vaccine is CD/T but there are plenty of others - see what is best for your area/conditions. They also need good fencing.

If you are expecting delicious sweet milk, you might have to hold back on the brush control. Some things can make the milk nasty. It doesn't bother some people, but others are very sensitive to off flavors in milk.

All the Saanens I've seen are good sized goats - 150 lbs or so.

I'd be a bit leery of the offer - seems "too good to be true". Good milking does, even from unregistered lines, go for $100+ each. Even just brush goats go for at least $50 around here. Is the deal from someone you know, just giving you a great offer? Just make sure you aren't getting a bum deal if you do want to keep them - or even if you want to eat them, you don't want them to be super skinny or diseased!


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## Alice In TX/MO (May 10, 2002)

Saanens are large goats. We borrowed a Saanen buck last winter, and the kids are growing like weeds. The buck was over 200 lbs, probably close to 225.

Our Saanen/LaMancha cross doeling is going to be the biggest goat we have when she's full grown. Other goats we have are LaMancha and Alpine. Snowbelle was born July 31, and she's probably 80 lbs now!

She is a sweet girl. Very gentle. Personality wise, I like her the best of all the goats.

They must have shelter. Goats do not like rain or mud. If you don't want dairy goats with the inherent labor and housing requirements, this might be a deal to pass up.

Make sure they have been tested for CAE ( a nasty disease ) and don't have any lumps on their bodies. Check the other goats in the herd for lumps, too, if you can. That's CL, an incurable contagious disease.

A yearling doe should have been bred to kid this winter or spring already. Are these culls that didn't breed? Freemartins?


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## deineria (Aug 22, 2009)

Sannens are actually large goats. I would say larger than a collie, but then a collie would make a rather large goat! lol.
You'd really be feeding grain, etc and getting less brush control if you're wanting quality milk and if they are full on a fair amount of grain if pregnant or in milk. 
You're gonna want to vaccinate, perhaps give copper bolus and bo-se shots, an be ready to do the same for kids and treat for cocci. Disbudding is something you'd need to do if you plan to sell the kids. 
Def. they will need a three sided shelter as they hate to be wet. Electric type fence will probably not work, you'd want a woven wire fence. 
That is about all I can think of in the basic essential list.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

Thanks for all the info. As far as I know the does have not been bred. The owner already has 8 does bred to kid this spring and what he told me was he didn't want to eat them because they were kind of pets, but they need to go to make room for the new kids soon to be born. 

Looks like I need to do more research. I didn't want to add another expense or more work. Dh really wants to get them though. Of course he won't be the one stuck with the work, but then he is the one who has to clear the brush and deal with the poison ivy. 

As for their weedy diet, do they eat burdock? If so that alone could make them worthwhile, even if the milk wouldn't be drinkable. And people do buy it to make soap. But even at that I don't know if I want to breed them. Are they like rabbits in that they should be bred before a certain age?

So many questions, so much to decide. You know how it is when you want something and it all kind of falls in your lap but you're not sure if it's the right thing? This is one of those things.


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## madness (Dec 6, 2006)

Not sure about the burdock, but they sure love poison ivy! It's been the best way to clear it from our land.

Goats are a lot of fun. Brush goats don't need to be terribly expensive to keep either. They do need feed in the winter, shelter and good fencing, but they will eat a lot of browse!

I've heard various stories about getting goats bred by a certain age. Some folks swear by it, others say it is a myth. I don't have enough experience to know for myself. But certainly it's not a problem to wait until they are a full year+ before breeding. You need a goat in great condition to bred them to give birth on their own first birthday, so there's no need to breed this year at all.

Keep asking questions! I know it's a big decision to take on the care of an animal, especially a type you haven't had before. This is a great board full of tons!


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## Idahoe (Feb 4, 2006)

I have abundant burdock and my goats didn't touch it, nor did the geese. I really hoped they would, that stuff is a PIA.


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## betsy h. (Sep 28, 2008)

http://nationalsaanenbreeders.com Lots of info and links to breeders there- you may find one near you. Fond yourself a 'goat mentor' and learn all you can. Have fun!

Saanens are the 'Holsteins' of the dairy goat world, and Nubians are the 'Jerseys'. Nice does can easily milk more than a gallon a day.

Plan on using more hay than grain. I'd do an actual vet check before you bring them on your property. Worm and vaccinate them well in the beginning. Go to adga.org for more info on dairy goats.


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## Cheribelle (Jul 23, 2007)

My Saanen is the sweetest goat on the place, really sweeter than my original "lap goat" without NEARLY as much handling.


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## Alice In TX/MO (May 10, 2002)

My mother in law used to say that if a woman doesn't have enough to do, get her a goat. I have found out there was a lot of truth in that.

My dairy goats are time consuming. 

I think you might want to get something else to clear your brush.:lookout:


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## southerngurl (May 11, 2003)

I've not had any off flavors from my goats eating brush or even garlic. I'm not sure but I think mine eat burdock. They'll eat pine, oak, cedar (not as much as the former), poison ivy, green brier, brambles, bindweed.... They will not, however, eat perilla mint and they don't care for white clover so much.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

Alice, you've pretty much summed up my reservations against them. As if I don't have enough to do already. I'm wanting to reduce my work load, not add to it.


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## wintrrwolf (Sep 29, 2009)

As a new Saanen owner my Sugar is freakin awsome! She cleared the ivy on and around the house just wish I had had her when I first moved in would have saved me weeks of itching and scratching, Does run lighter than Bucks of course my girl is around 125 - 130# very calm around me loves to be petted and she learns quick! 
"The Saanen doe has a majestic air about her, which coupled with her milk producing ability, identifies her as &#8220;Queen of the Dairy Goats&#8221;. Man I am just green with envy that you got 2 of em they are pretty scarce around here. Mine is also clearing a lot of brush.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

Haven't got them yet. Had the offer just today. Haven't made the final decision yet. I will need to put up a pen for them. I have a dog crate and a plastic dog igloo they could use for shelter but I have no pen as yet. Wouldn't be too hard to put one up, with all the duck pens I've made recently a 10 x 10 chainlink goat pen would be a piece of cake.


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## copperpennykids (Sep 6, 2004)

You might want to get a few Boer goats instead. Either wethers that will eat your weeds and then go into the freezer, or else bred does that will eat the weeds and produce kids which they will nurse (no milking for you) and then you can eat any and all of them.


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## betsy h. (Sep 28, 2008)

What you have for shelter will not be big enough. 

An 8x8 shed may be best for your use, and sometimes you can find a used 'calf hutch' for cheap on craigslist, or the like. They like to jump on top of these and the hutch can be turned up on its' end for easy cleaning. I put pallets in the floor of mine to keep the goats off the ground.

They need a place to eat hay in the dry too. Eating hay off the ground is not good for them and wastes a lot of hay besides. That small 8x8 shed would fit your bill better bacause it could have apace for them to sleep and store hay above. A pen 16x32 (6 cattle panels from Tractor Supply) is OK for two does to live in at night, but the larger the better.


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## Alice In TX/MO (May 10, 2002)

A 10 x 10 pen for what? You need them out and about. Your whole place needs goat fencing.


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## wintrrwolf (Sep 29, 2009)

Alice In TX/MO said:


> A 10 x 10 pen for what? You need them out and about. Your whole place needs goat fencing.


Agree with Alice. Will say that I went with alternate fencing option and it is still working for all 3 of my goats (Saanen, pygmy, and Nigerian Dwarf Buck) a pet containment in ground fencing, just didn't bury the wire so I can expand or change the area as I need. Just another option and probably wont work if you have more than a couple goats.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

We decided against them. We don't have a place to put them, don't have a pen built, don't want them eating everything here, don't have the equipment, and so on. 

I do know you can't keep goats in a 10 x 10 pen all the time. That wasn't my intention. I was thinking a 10 x 10 pen with tarps on 3 sides and the top until we got a shelter built. And letting them out either on a lead with someone right there or in the yard which is fenced, not the best fencing to keep goats contained though. 

Goats are still an option in the future, maybe we'll contact the local rent-a-goat to get the brush cleared (LOL, I know there is no rent-a-goat here). But the idea of buying a wether in the spring and letting him clear the brush, then eating him sounds good. Except you need 2 goats to keep each other company. I don't know. 

Thanks so much for all the help and advice. It was so sweet of you all to not say, "You are an idiot! Make the pen and shelter before you go goat shopping!"

wintrrwolf, the electric dog fencing works for goats???? Hmmmm. That's an idea! I'll have to let dh know. We could lay the wire around the brushy areas and let them loose. How did you train them to respect the wire?


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## Alice In TX/MO (May 10, 2002)

Electric NET fencing works for goats for me. I have not had success with electric wire/tape fence for goats. Some have, just not me.


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## wintrrwolf (Sep 29, 2009)

Training a goat to the pet containment was far easier then training a dog took about 2 days. Set it up where you want them at you can make it go anywhere you want if you do hang from bushes or tree's just make sure it is eye level so they see it, with goats they don't respect the flags another reason I kept the transmitter wire above ground. What I saw watching is that a goat slows down to check something new will study it then move in a bit for a closer look, so at first when they would get the warning beep it didnt mean anything but then they would get the zap which would make them leap away from the wire, you start it out with almost max zone around the wire I am now down to just a foot from the wire. Gypsy I have seen get close but as soon as she hears the warning tone she moves away. Cletus has Sugars collar on right now and Sugar still hasnt tried to cross the line and they all stay back from the wire. Cletus got 2 zaps before he learned. The zaps can be set at different warning levels so if they persist it does get a bit stronger the closer they get. I did put the transmitter wire on the elec fence poles that I had for added insurance in the open area I strung the elec wire along with it just dont have the elec wire plugged in, they know what the electric wire is and respect it. Still going to get Sugar another collar I like not having to worry about her getting out. The eletric fence didnt work for me because Gypsy figured out that once through it was done, electric might have worked but I got wore out trying to make sure in the overgrown areas(where I wanted the goats to go) the brush wasnt grounding it out, plus the electric fences I have looked at they all pulse though the zap gets stronger the longer you hold it I could hold it for a bit before I had to let go. With the pet containment they get a warning tone before they get to the fence, then a zap(s) before they even try to cross the line. Will say the first day Cletus got out and I was at work when I got home my girls were still on their side of the fence Cletus thankfully didnt go far from them. Am thinking of the best way to wire Cletus pen with this as well if he can not push the fence then he wouldnt be able to get out....hmmmm need coffee brain isnt working yet What I used for the pet containment was Innotek Pet Safe the kit and an extra collar (I went with the one for stubborn dogs cause I have stubborn goats) if you are really thinking about using it check around the transmitter wire is cheaper at Lowes than TSC you can possibly get the kits cheaper online then TSC but I was desperate..I spent close to 300 dollars for electric wire, poles, box and accessories for the electric fence for it to not work..spent 189 for containment kit, 69 for extra collar, 25 for extra transmitter wire 283 and it works for me.


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## dosthouhavemilk (Oct 29, 2004)

Our goats eat burdock. They prefer it young and tender.
Depending on where you are in Ohio, you are welcome to come visit and rack my brain.


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## Freeholder (Jun 19, 2004)

The pet containment system (invisible fence) may work well for keeping your goats IN, but it WON'T work for keeping stray dogs OUT. 

Kathleen


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## wintrrwolf (Sep 29, 2009)

True though in my area the cow farmers do not tolerate stray dogs(they shoot them, since I have been here I haven't seen one) but am always concerned with coyotes, then again I have 2 great watch/guard dogs.


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## cjb (May 2, 2006)

Interesting conversation. I have never liked the look of saanens at all and prefer having higher butterfat content. However, my local mentor (Oberhasli and ND breeder) has gotten out of the ND's and into Saanens and she loves them. The high milk production is definitely attractive too.

I have an Ober/Saanen cross that is gold in color and a great producer. I am thinking of breeding her to a Saanen buck and keeping a doe, if I get one.


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## betsy h. (Sep 28, 2008)

CJB, there are some Guernsey breeders near you- why not consider breeding her to a Golden Guernsey buck and starting your herd that way? You would get the beneits of both the Saanen and the Obie, plus the real laid back temperment of the Guernsey anfd their higher butterfat/milk solids.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

dosthouhavemilk, I live just below Columbus.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

I have both saanens and oberhasli's. I love my sannens. they are big, I use calf hutches for shelter, and we absolutely use electric fence to keep them in. My bucks walk right over woven wire. I single electric line on the inside of that keeps them in. I also have electric netting. I use that and they respect it. As a result, they also respect 2 electric wires. That is what they are in now. even the 60 pound young does respect it, no problem. It only takes one good shock, and I do have one that is a 'tester'. No problems with her and the electric either.


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## hihobaron (Oct 5, 2015)

winterrwolf

I worked with NFS on under-story brush control in Los Angeles and San Berinadeno National Forest. Did that for 2 summers. The Brush Control "Crew" amounted to Me , 1 pack mule, My 2 personal horses (Arabians) and 25 goats.
We kept them "Contained" with a shock collar system like you mentioned. The practice was to lay out the transmitter wire on top of brush with a water source within the perimeter and they all stayed 4-5 feet away from the wire. Then just when a move was needed tie them up move the wire and show them their new graze area.
We were high enough up in the ranges to have nice summer weather rather than in the Metro areas with 105 degree heat. Nice country, no people except maybe a Backpacker or two.
My Base Camp was a 12 X 14 wall tent, wood stove and Dry Ice Coolers for fresh food.
Propane Stove for when we were under burn restriction. Small solar (portable) power system. To keep Communications running and laptop with a satellite data link.
Goat and horses/mule all ran together.
I was issued a "Animal Control Permit" with instruction to shoot anything that harassed the goats.. Yes I kept both a High Power Rifle, and a good pistol with me most of the time. 
Once Fall came around I was out of a job for the winter, as the goats were sent back to the goat farms they were "Leased from".
BTY: My current goats here in South Carolina are Alpine X(2) and I have a line on a couple Sanen Wether yearlings (2) that I plan to use as Pack goats, That is the same main usage for my Alpine X wethers. As well as brush control and "entertainment"
Sanen Are the largest of the Dairy breed and make good pack goats (the wethers )
Happy Trails
hihbaron


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## Lady89 (Feb 22, 2014)

There are lots of good goat care books out there, I suggest you pick up a few. We will never be able to tell you every thing you need to know in just a few post


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