# Butt and Pass Log Cabin



## Appalachia (Jul 11, 2012)

I was recently introduced to this concept of log cabin building. I really like how you can fell the tree, remove the bark and build with it right away without any milling.

I haven't found much information about it except for someone wanting to sell an $800 class in Las Vegas. I'm sure the class is excellent, but I am hoping someone knows of a book that details the construction so I can learn more without having to shell out for the class or plane ticket. 

So does anyone know of a book on Butt and Pass log cabin building?

Thanks


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## Malamute (Sep 15, 2011)

Butt and pass is just one of many methods of log building. There are variations of it also.

Dont know if its the same people, but I saw one outfit selling their method, and they refused to allow anyone that had any previous experience with log building, or any previous experience with home inspections or code enforcement to attend. All I saw about them made me want to run as far away from them and as fast as possible. Their methods look shoddy and oddball, and not what most with building experience would call smart. They are selling you your ignorance, not a superior construction method. I dont think their methods pass code inspections in most places. Regular log builders laugh at them. It may drastically affect your property value and resale value.

You can learn at least as much from books and videos, and probably better methods. If anything, they sell you confidence to DO something, not a quality system or method. Log building doesnt have to be rocket surgery, most old log cabins were not built my master craftsmen with secret information, but by ordinary people that needed a place to live. 

If it sounds too good to be true, it may be. You can build with green logs, but the shrinkage will affect the stability and weather-tightness of the structure and doors and windows if allowances arent made for them. The people I'm thinking of use rebar driven with sledge hammers into too small of holes in the logs, and that doesnt allow the logs to settle naturally as they dry.

You may be able to build a livable house, or you may be paying money to learn to build a mess of a house. I'd strongly lean towards learning a little more about basic, accepted log building methods and strike out on your own. I've built several cabins with little more than looking at old cabins, looking at some books, and having one pic of the general idea of what I wanted.

Good luck.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

You might want to check out this website:

http://ourloghouse.com/cgi-bin/olh.pl?00001/

The class you speak of is probably the one that Skip Ellsworth's son teaches. Skip has now passed but for decades he taught B&P building classes. I took the class (taught by Skip at his massive log house) about 15 years ago.

Here is a biography for Skip:

http://www.hollowtop.com/cls_html/Log_Building_Skip_Ellsworth.htm

I took notes in the class which you can read here:

http://ourloghouse.com/cgi-bin/olh.pl?00206

Since taking his class I have built two log cabins/houses. One B&P and the other Swedish cope.

Here is a HT thread about building a small B&P cabin.

http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/sp...aredness/448048-building-small-log-cabin.html

I'll answer your questions if I can.


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## Appalachia (Jul 11, 2012)

Thanks for the replies. 

I get the foundation, and the flooring system. And then the two vertical poles bolted on to support the ridge pole. Do you have more info on the rest of the roof, particularly framing the gable ends?


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

Appalachia said:


> Thanks for the replies.
> 
> I get the foundation, and the flooring system. And then the two vertical poles bolted on to support the ridge pole. Do you have more info on the rest of the roof, particularly framing the gable ends?


*Rafters* 

On the small cabin I used 2x8x10' set on 24" centers. They rested on the ridgepole and the tops of the walls. At the top, they are connected with a 1/2" bolt thru each. They are side by side. Hope this makes sense.

One the house, I used log rafters set on 5' centers. Over that is 2x6 car decking (T&G). Then 2x12s creating the valleys. 

*Gable ends*

I've seen folks do the gables with B&P logs all the way up to the ridgepole. I'm not fond of that method. Both of mine are stick framed gables.


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## Appalachia (Jul 11, 2012)

Where the gables and rafters meet the top log in the wall, how is that sealed off?

I read something about numbering logs, I'm assuming you measure your log diameter on both ends and lay them out so there will be similar diameters meeting at each butt and pass joint and also that the four corners will be as close to the same height as possible?


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## Evons hubby (Oct 3, 2005)

I've never been impressed by butt and pass construction, I vastly prefer the dovetail notch common throughout Appalachian woods country. Many of those old buildings are still around 150 to 200 years later. Never seen any of the others remaining.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

Appalachia said:


> Where the gables and rafters meet the top log in the wall, how is that sealed off?
> 
> I read something about numbering logs, I'm assuming you measure your log diameter on both ends and lay them out so there will be similar diameters meeting at each butt and pass joint and also that the four corners will be as close to the same height as possible?


I numbered each log. Then I measured the diameter of each end and put that into a spreadsheet. When I was ready to start a new round, I would measure the height at each corner and decide what size log I needed to bring it as level as possible. Repeat for each round.

I'm not sure I quite understand your first question. I might - in general any gaps or openings are covered and sealed when you *****.


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