# What do you use for nest boxes?



## RiverPines (Dec 12, 2006)

I cant see spending the money on those store bought boxes.

I found high sided large dishpans and cat litter boxes work ideal and being from the dollar store, very cheap!
They are easy to clean and if one gets broke, its cheap enough to toss and replace.
Its also easy to put a few holes in the sides and wire them to the rabbit cage wall so the doe's cant move them around.

So what do you use?


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## Guest (Aug 25, 2008)

One time when I was raising rabbits, I got hold of some old discarded beehive supers and used those. I nailed scraps of wood across one side to make a bottom. Then I nailed wood across half of the other side for privacy.

They weren't the easiest to clean, but they looked pretty decent and they did the job.


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## MaggieJ (Feb 6, 2006)

I'm at the point where I must replace the nest boxes, so I found your idea interesting, RiverPines. What are the dimensions of the dishpans you use? Are these for standard meat rabbits? Thanks for posting about this!


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## KSALguy (Feb 14, 2006)

plastic dishpans wouldnt be very suitable to someone with an outdoor rabbitry in the cold north i wouldnt think, not enough ensulation, 

we have used cardboard boxes for our indoor does before that work great, just tape them up nice and solid and cut a hole in the side just big enough for the doe to get in, use once and throw away, 

other wise we used wood boxes made from scrap plywood, when i put my rabbits back in too cages from the colony i will build an attached appartment on a raised soil bed with cement and brick to insulate both against Heat and Cold althoug Cold really isnt an issue down here, i am makeing my own version of the underground nest chaimber on caged rabbits posted on another thred.


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## RiverPines (Dec 12, 2006)

MaggieJ said:


> I'm at the point where I must replace the nest boxes, so I found your idea interesting, RiverPines. What are the dimensions of the dishpans you use? Are these for standard meat rabbits? Thanks for posting about this!


Oh gosh I have all different sizes! I go shopping at the dollars store about 2-3 times a year and just grab a bunch of different ones.
Some are not even dishpans, some are cheap storage boxes.

I have small ones and big ones. I'll go measure one of my most used sizes.
Ok, 14" x 15" and 7 inches tall. I have some bigger and some smaller.
My shortest is 5" tall and highest is 7".

A few buns like cat litter boxes, the enclosed kind, and some like the enclosed kind without the top on it. I think its the lower entrance they have in front with the high sides all around. Those I find cheap at rummage sales. 

All my buns have developed favorite sizes and shapes. 

To attach cages as someone asked...I melt holes in the side, 2 spaced close, in each side thats getting fastened. Then I loop thin wire, that I buy in spools (its cheap stuff) through the 2 closely spaced holes and around the wires on the wall of the rabbit cages. It usually takes a few areas to secure, 2 sides of the pan get secured to 2 walls of the cage.
With wooden hutches that I once used, I just screwed the pans in place through the sides.

As for winter, I never had a problem with cold kits. Between the hay and the rabbit fur, all stayed warm. What is funny is a mom that really wants a warm nest and you go look and find a pile of straw that reaches to the ceiling of the cage! You know there is a pan under there somewhere!! LOL
I have bred in Wisconsin's coldest periods in the garage. All was frozen except kits. 

I do it this way for my angoras and I did it the same way for the rex's and the satins I used to have, both standard and minis.
Its worked great for many years. Easy, cheap and practical.


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## MaggieJ (Feb 6, 2006)

Thanks! I think I'll give it a try.


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## rabbitgeek (Mar 22, 2008)

I have a bunch of metal nest boxes that we bought, mostly bought used for a few dollars each. We have some wooden nest boxes, most of which we made from plywood ourselves.

I prefer the nest boxes with a top on them. The top is a good place for the doe to get up away from the litter. It also makes a convenient handle when I want to pull the nest box out.










I will pull the box out once a day to check for any kits that died, or check the general health, or replace the straw/hay if there are messies in there.

On very cold nights, I pull the box and move it into the house so the kits don't freeze. I take the boxes back out in the morning.

Have a good day!
Franco Rios


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## FordFamilyFarm (Aug 19, 2008)

I have one homemade wire box with a lift out bottom (picture: two wire floors - one attached to all four sides, and one above that attached to only the back side so it 'opens') so that I can place a piece of cardboard in there and the doe can't dig it out when nesting. Wasn't sure I'd be happy with that one, but indeed it works great! My DH found some wire locker trays being given away at a High School when they switched over to new PE lockers - these work great too. They are wire on all four sides, around 10" x 10", with an open top. I suspect they were used for swimsuits/towels, as they are very airy. I use a clip to attach them to the side of the cage so Mom can't tip them over when hopping in and out. Only drawback is that they are quite deep so when the kits get old enough to venture out, they have trouble getting back in. I solved this problem by nailing some 2x4s together to make 'stairs' that I fasten next to the box when the babies are about 2 weeks old. This setup doesn't take a lot of cage space from the doe, and it has the benefit of a nice deep, warm nest. We line them with cardboard in the winter months if it's going to be really cold. They are easy to clean and disinfect too. I like them better than the metal boxes you can buy because the kits always seem to roll back into the nest. With the metal boxes I've had a kit or two end up at the opposite corner of the box where it gets chilled and can't seem to find it's way back to the rest of the group.


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## Jeanette (Jul 29, 2008)

It is always interesting when someone comes up with an inexpensive way to do things!! A bored rabbit may chew on the plastic so I would get her something else to chew on but a plastic 'dish pan' nest box would sure be a Lot easier to clean.
I was thinking that if you were concerned about the openness of a 'dishpan' nest box that you could cut another one in half and attach it as a roof. Then you could get two covered nest boxes from three dishpans. It would also be easy to cut out a small section on one side to make it easier for the doe to get in and the kits to get out. 

I have a paring knife that I have used for various 'melting' projects. I hold it in a low flame (using burner on a gas stove) and when it is hot I use it to make holes or to slice through plastic. Just use a sawing motion and some pressure to "cut" where you want. When the knife no longer goes thru the plastic easily, then reheat it for a few more seconds. Depending on how thick or sturdy the plastic is it may take a few tries. Hot plastic does not smell good either so you would want to have good ventilation or at least a fan running nearby.
Can't wait to give this a try!

Jeanette


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## LynninTX (Jun 23, 2004)

My dh has not got around to making me nest boxes so I am using plastic sweater boxes... so far no chewing


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## RiverPines (Dec 12, 2006)

My rabbits have never chewed plastic. But they also get tons of branches that they chew till their hearts content.


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## cathleenc (Aug 16, 2007)

we use homemade wood ones that dh made from scraps.


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## Kittikity (Oct 21, 2004)

I'd be concerned if you're in a warm area (like me in Florida) that the boxes might get too warm.. Maybe I could use the top of the litter box with a wire floor for ventilation? But what size wire for the floor?

Franco, are those amchins in that pic?


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## rabbitgeek (Mar 22, 2008)

Kittikity said:


> Franco, are those amchins in that pic?


That's Sylvia the Standard Chinchilla and her litter from 2005.

Sylvia was a showbunny, a cross breed actually with a Silver Marten grandfather in the background. Not purebred, so not registered. But she was good enough in type and fur to win Reserve In Show at a youth show in Calif.

She was sent to another breeder after that picture was taken.

Have a good day!
Franco Rios


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## JohnCaper (Sep 25, 2008)

I have 4 I hope will go soon, and was wondering about plastic boxes too. Cheap, quick to put together, easy to clean, and I like the idea of another 1/2 for a cover. I think I'll give it a try.


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## LFRJ (Dec 1, 2006)

This is from a dffferent post, but this works for us! It rains here a lot so plasitc has advantages - not maybe practical in a desert climate. 


Our doe is due tonight!

This is our fourth or fifth litter with her (can't recall without checking my record book). She has a spacious outdoor hutch, and as for a nestbox, we use a dark plastic tote box with the lid that snaps on - upturned (so the snap on lid becomes the bottom of the nest box). There is an entrance hole cut into one end that fits the doe. We pack line it with straw and let her decorate as she sees fit. We've had good luck with it - wind proof, water proof, easy to clean and disinfect (before the big night) and easy to unsnap a few days after to clean and/or check contents. We've had litters both in summer and the cold winter. I like knowing the litter is well protected from the noise and elements.

We actually have an identical tote for the buck in his hutch also, and we leave them in the hutches all year round with regular cleanings. They actually get equal use out of them - Our doe uses the tote mainly to kindle, or occasionally as reprieve from intense cold. Our less congenial buck uses his year round to frequently hide in. silly bunny.

Here's a pic - nothing special here, but we all love photos.


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## trinityoaks (Sep 17, 2008)

It seems to me that the metal nesting boxes would get too hot in the summer (even in shade) and too cold in the winter. Is that not true? We don't have boxes yet (don't have rabbits yet), but I'm thinking we'll make some from plywood instead. Somewhere around here I have the plans/diagrams.


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## Jeanette (Jul 29, 2008)

Kittikity said:


> I'd be concerned if you're in a warm area (like me in Florida) that the boxes might get too warm.. Maybe I could use the top of the litter box with a wire floor for ventilation? *But what size wire for the floor?*


Kittikity,
I would use either 1/2" x 1" or 1/2" x 1/2" for a wire floor. Just something the kits can't fall through and that isn't too rough.

Jeanette
Hondo, TX

Always Learning!


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## YuccaFlatsRanch (May 3, 2004)

I have finally taken to using the Keep It Simple Stupid method of nest boxes. A friend owns a restaurant that gets their french fries in 13 by 15 by 8 1/2 cardboard boxes which she gives me for free. I cut the tops out of the box and have made a 13 1/2 by 15 1/2 by 8 inch high wood frame which fits around the box. The wood provides weight so the box doesn't get pushed around the cage. In goes pine chips in the bottom, with a piece of 1/2 by 1 rabbit wire on top and fill the box with hay or straw. When time comes to change out the box I make a new cardboard insert ready with straw etc and the buns are moved and then the old box is disposed of and the new box put into the frame and back into the cage. BTW, I don't breed in hot weather so I don't worry abut the box being too hot.

No mess, no muss, no fuss, no cost.

BTW I think there is a new FREE box from the post office that approximates the size I use. I'll check tomorrow.


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## Jeanette (Jul 29, 2008)

YuccaFlatsRanch said:


> I have finally taken to using the Keep It Simple Stupid method of nest boxes. I cut the tops out of the box and have made a 13 1/2 by 15 1/2 by 8 inch high wood frame which fits around the box. The wood provides weight so the box doesn't get pushed around the cage.
> BTW I think there is a new FREE box from the post office that approximates the size I use. I'll check tomorrow.


Would you be so kind as to put up a photo of your wood frame ? 
I understand better when I can see things. :clap:
Sounds like a neat idea! :goodjob:
DH made a gorgeous nest box for me and come to find out every cage we have (all second hand) have different size doors! So it will fit in some but not all :grump: Oh well, back to the drawing board :typomat:

Jeanette
Hondo, TX

Always Learning!


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## YuccaFlatsRanch (May 3, 2004)

"Would you be so kind as to put up a photo of your wood frame ? "

NOPE - its just too darn easy. Have your DH or you for that matter make a wood box without a top or a bottom that is just slightly larger than the size of the commonest cardboard box you can find. As I said I think the post office has a free one that is about 12 by 12 by 6 inches high. Have your DH cut 2 pieces of wood 12 1/4 inches long and 2 pieces that are 12 1/4 plus the thickness of the boards long and nail them together to give interior dimensions of 12 1/4 by 12 1/4. 

If the boxes are different than those dimensions, adjust accordingly.


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## YuccaFlatsRanch (May 3, 2004)

DW just got a box of shoes in today in a Priority Mail supplied box. - these should be available for free at the Post Office (you might as well get something back for free from the Guberment). 

It would be perfect for smaller breed rabbits.

Its size is 7 3/4 by 14 5/8 by 5 1/8 high. The four boards to make the sides would be 2 each at 14 7/8 inches (14 5/8 plus 1/4) and two each at 8 inches plus the thickness of 2 boards. Lets assume we are using 1/2 inch plywood, so the the 8 inch pieces would be cut at 9 inches to cover the end 7 3/4 inches plus 1/4 to get the box in comfortably plus the thickness of each side piece of 1/2 inch times 2 or 1 inch.

THE TRICK IS TO FIND A FREE CARDBOARD BOX THAT YOU CAN GET WITH REGULARITY SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO KEEP REMAKING THE WOOD SLEEVES THAT FIT AROUND THEM.


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## Jennifer L. (May 10, 2002)

Mine are 1" lumber, top, bottom and sides. In a cold climate if you expect them to kindle in the winter you need an enclosed box, IMO. My set up is from a mink farm and the boxes are rather deep that the doe can jump down into. With plenty of straw in the bottom and the pulled fur of the nest, a doe that kindles in extremely cold weather can be very successful with kits in the winter time. It's always fun to reach into the nest box and into the ball of fur and feel that heat when it's below zero!

Here's the outside of one box: http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL87/507137/1308875/337030137.jpg

Here's showing the inside of an unused (by rabbits!) nest box that was sitting on top of the cages. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL87/507137/1308875/337030149.jpg

The top of the box is hinged on the back and lifts back so you can get into the box from the top. The box hangs onto the outside of the cage so you can get into the box and check the kits without disturbing the doe. Since these are made for mink the top of the box also has cage wire that lifts up separately from the wooden top so a mama mink doesn't jump out at you.  It's handy for rabbits in that you can leave the top of the box braced open in the summer time for ventilation, while the rabbits are kept inside.

Jennifer


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## Willowynd (Mar 27, 2005)

The mink nest boxes is similar to what I am doing with my set up for nest boxes, only mine will be lower than the cage floor so the box stays warmer in the winter. My turkey coop is about done being painted, so soon as I finish painting fence and kennel building, we will be building the nest boxes and hanging cages. I will post pics when it is all finished.


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## nancy237 (May 29, 2008)

YuccaFlatsRanch said:


> DW just got a box of shoes in today in a Priority Mail supplied box. - these should be available for free at the Post Office (you might as well get something back for free from the Guberment).
> 
> It would be perfect for smaller breed rabbits.
> 
> ...



I like this whole concept of using the cardboard box as a disposable liner.
I am playing around with a plastic milk crate as the outer sleeve .
I cutout a 6" x4" area for a lower entrance than hopping over the side . These crates will be easy to attach to the side if the cage.
Next step is finding boxes to fit.


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