# Driven water well



## shadowlands (Oct 18, 2013)

Does anyone have experience with driving a water well and putting a hand pump (or possibly solar) on it? I have sandy soil, the water table should be about 60' down judging from my neighbors well and the elevation of the creek downhill. Mainly looking at it for stock tanks and vegetable watering. I'm especially ignorant on the pump. Any input is appreciated.


----------



## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

Unless your aquifer is under enough pressure to push the water up inside the pipe to at least 20' from the surface you will need to drill a large diameter well. That's to allow you to use a submersible pump or a jet pump down inside the pipe.

Driven wells only work if the static water level is no more than about 20' from the ground level. In this area that's not uncommon. I've driven several wells in this area and they all worked fine.

Is there any way you can find out the static water level for wells in your area? Our state keeps public records of wells.


----------



## Jim-mi (May 15, 2002)

Officially the state of Michigan outlawed those "surface" wells many years ago.
My dad found out all about that . . . . . .the new deep well was expensive.
I drove the first well to 28' . . . .water was good...

Quietly check with the health dept. in your area to find out.

There is some excellent pumps available---that could run from solar panels---but they are kind of pricy and most need a larger diameter pipe than 2"......


----------



## shadowlands (Oct 18, 2013)

Why would it have to be that near the surface when I can get a hand pump that will work up to 200' deep? I'm pretty sure they're legal in my area. What's some of the pro cons of 1 1/4 vs 2"?


----------



## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

Because the hand pump must have a 200' rod on it to reach the water. The centrifical pumps depend on developing enough suction to suck the water to the pump and 25' is the theoretical maximum. Reality is even less.

A 1 1/4" is easier to drive but has less capacity for water flow although I don't believe it's very much..


----------



## Cook-Family (Apr 29, 2014)

There are solar pumps that sit on the surface and will pump water from a 60' or deeper well. But not a lot deeper. Backwoods Solar should be a good resource to learn about the solar option. 

Hand-pumping is an option, and might be better if you aren't in a high-flow aquifer. Good luck.

CF


----------



## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

there are two different type of hand pumps,

ones that suck like a pitcher pump, good for about 20 feet in practice, 

and the pump that is a glorified frame for pulling a rod via a handle. usually with a spout built into it, and supports the pipe and pump below it,

the second type attaches to a rod (sucker rod), that goes down the pipe that attaches to down the well pump, called a cylinder, this cylinder is attached to a drop pipe, and the sucker rod goes in side of the drop pipe, the cylinder and drop pipe is then lowered down inside the casing, the pipe in the ground that goes down below the water table, usually the bottom section of the drop pipe has a screen type section on it so water can enter the casing, 

so what you would need to drive a minimum 3" diameter type pipe, ( A casing) and then put the rest of the well pump, pipe, sucker rod, and hand pump on top, of the casing to support the drop pipe and pump in the well, and if one ever may think of a submersible well pump a 4" minimum and better 5 or 6" diameter casing, 


the chances of driving a 3" casing would be very hard and most likely not accomplished, and driving larger would been worst yet, with out have a hole to put it down, 

there are a lot of 20' with 1 1/4" pipe, wells that cannot be driven, to compleation

all it take is one small rock that will not break, to block your path,

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

the only way I know possibly the driving would work, is to (a brass cylinder will not survive the driving of the pipe,) 
use 2" and have a piece of pipe ordered in (I would think stainless steel), and have the inside a polished 1 7/8" bore, I will say 3 foot long, have a machine shop or plumber if they well, thread the ends for 2" pipe, and put a snap ring or a turned ring in the bottom end of the pipe (stop for check valve), (that would be your cylinder, and attach a 2" driving point, (by having three feet, you would be able to wear out a number of areas in the "cylinder" before loosing the cylinder, 

(in other words you making a heavy duty cylinder that would with stand the driving),

by the check valve and the plunger valve from a "1 7/8 open top, 449b midland pump",( I like the three leather units my self, and use that for your pump guts, it will, go down in the 2" pipe and work in the "cylinder" part of the pipe,

the stop is for the check valve, I like the ball valve over the poppets type, 

and the only way I would know one could get it driven that far down is to put a tee on the top under the drive cap and inject under pressure, water down the pipe to help soften the hole and even wash some of the earth up the sides of the pipe I would think driving slowly (depth of the drive point at a time) so the water could wash up and open up the drive path for the pipe, (I have never tried driving any thing near that depth, we have wells In the 300" range and all are drilled in some way, 

about all I have driven is fence posts and getting them in two to three foot can be very difficult, 

to get 60 foot I really do not seen how one could drive it, but I would think if one could wash out the hole as you go, it may be possible


----------



## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

There are ways to jet casings down but you have to do it right and get the well sealed as you go or there is a risk of creating a channel that allows pollutants into the aquifer.

I've pounded several wells 55+' here in sand country.


----------

