# Are Chevy Blazers reliable vehicles?



## stef (Sep 14, 2002)

This question falls into a homesteading category, right? :grin:

I've got my eyes on two Chevy Blazers...one a 1988 with 137,800 miles, and the other is a 2003 with 137,000. Obviously both are used, but they're in good shape and before I choose either one I'll take it to my mechanic to do a thorough check-up.


Have you, or do you, own one? If so, what's your opinion on them. Gas miliage is not really an issue for me, as I don't drive far or frequently. (Less than 5,000 miles a year. )

stef


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## Gary in ohio (May 11, 2002)

Which chevy blazer? There was the 1/4 ton version and the larger 1/2 ton, 1500/k1500. Also the early 2 door tahoe's were called blazers

if its not been done, the fuel pump will need to be done very soon. For the fullsize models 200K + isnt an issue if taken care of. My 92 blazer (fullsize) had 280K on it when we sold it. Replaced it with a 4 door version called a tahoe, its has 240K miles and is running fine.

I doubt I would want the smaller blazer, but the fullsize will last a long time.


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## Shrek (May 1, 2002)

Any vehicle is reliable if you have a reliable mechanic. Some vehicles just require larger maintence budgets based on their design.

My 1988 S10 Blazer has been running for me for 9 years now and has 300,000 almost on the body and 60,000 miles on the engine I replaced the scatter one with when I bought the rig.

The most I have spent in normal mechanical maintenance costs on it were the $1800 the first year when my mechanic installed the new engine and $1900 two years ago when he and his son repainted for me.

Other years its varied from $250 to $900 or so to keep it running because anything mechanical requires normally scheduled mechanic time and occasional towing and repair.

I switched to a ford expedition for a four months but after the 3rd coil unit that ran it to my yearly maintenance costs budget for it I sold it and went back to driving my S10 Blazer which stays nicely within its normal maintenance cost budget.


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## Curtis B (Aug 15, 2008)

We have an 05 trailblazer with 90K we have had for 3 yrs. All that we have had to do to it so far (other than oil and filter changes) is replace the radio and an injector. Some time this year we will need to have the doors remounted, since the epoxy is giving way, that will be 700.00. So far so good with ours.


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

I had a '92 Chevy Blazer (S10) that I just loved. 
But it only made it to 200K before the engine needed a rebuild...

We traded it off instead.


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## stef (Sep 14, 2002)

Both vehicles are LS 4x4, 6 cylinder, automatic transmissions...


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## radiofish (Mar 30, 2007)

One of the vehicles that I drive is a 1986 GMC S-15 Jimmy 4X4 with the 2.8L V-6 engine and a 5 speed manual transmission (GMC's version of the smaller 2 door S-10 Blazer)..

There are some issues with maintenance, such as I always seem to loose hide and blood when wrenching on them due to the tight quarters. Plus mine is 1/2 SAE and 1/2 Metric parts which is frustrating when I need any tools to do work on it.

Otherwise, I really do like my little rural recon vehicle. It drives well, 4 wheels just fine, fits in tight spaces, and gets decent gas milage.


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## Tad (Apr 2, 2003)

I had a 92 S10 blazer. First motor went at about 75,000 miles, second was getting pretty loud at about 145,000. I did a lot of work to it and wouldn't want another one, it was a pain to work on, very cramped around the engine and such. In the 4x4 model the oil filter is under the air filter behind the head light because it won't fit next to the motor. Then again I don't care for GM products anyways, maybe mine was just the lemon in the bunch. Have a good mechanic give it a run through.


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## Lisa in WA (Oct 11, 2004)

We had an 88 GMC Jimmy (same thing as the bigger Blazer) that we bought new and we sold it at about 225K miles. We still saw it toodling around town a couple of years after that. 
Towed a travel trailer and horse trailer with it as well. It was a V8 engine.


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## poischis (Feb 2, 2011)

get a Jeep cherokee prior to 2000 (they had a common problem about a head gasket leak) they look good, go anywhere, the 4x4 is really good (if it's a concern), since mpg doesnt bother you, you'll be fine, and the motor(4.0l) is nothing less than bullet proof, 200 000 miles is nothing for them, I have 334 000 km on mine and its in very good health. the price is very comparable.


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## calliemoonbeam (Aug 7, 2007)

Mine is a 1997 S10 (the smaller Blazer). It's a 4-wheel drive with a tow package. I bought it three years ago, and it's been great. It's at 190,000 miles now and still going strong with mostly just regular oil changes, tune-ups, etc., regular maintenance. The previous owner said it had never needed any major work and my son, who's a mechanic, said he sees no evidence of it. In fact, it still had the original spark plug wires when I bought it, lol! So obviously, they didn't do much maintenance, but it's done great since I've had it.

I do need new shocks now and did have to replace the fuel pump at 170,000 miles, but that's it. It gets about 21 MPG around town, rides well, is very comfortable, has room for five passengers, and has good hauling capabilities, but you'd be amazed what you can haul just by putting the back seat down, lol. Plus mine has a luggage rack on top where I can tie down anything too big to fit in the back. I've been very happy with it and my son, who is a die-hard Ford man, actually said he thought it was a "pretty good truck" - very high praise from him for a GM product, lol. Good luck!


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## PhilJohnson (Dec 24, 2006)

The 88 probably has a 2.8 v-6. Gutless, not as long lived as the 4.3 v6. My parents have had quite a few 4.3 powered vehicles, they all were running fine when they sold them (with over 250k on one and 280K on the other). The transmissions usually have to be rebuilt by 180,000 miles in my experience. I've driven both styles, not a huge fan I must say. Neither one had very good traction (both 4x4s). I remember getting stuck with the 88 in a snow bank. I took my AMC Eagle, drove through the snow bank that the Blazer was stuck in and pushed it out. Both styles seemed tippy to me. I like the Cherokee much better, it handles better, easier to work on, and is better off the pavement. I wouldn't say either style of Blazer is unreliable but there are better SUVs out there.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

The 4.3L engines are good for way over 200,000 miles if they're taken care off. A friend ran one to 275,000 before giving it to a granddaughter over a year ago. It is still running. It never used a drop of oil between changes. They used synthetic after they bought it with about 60K. That was a 92 S15.

I've got a 91 S10 with the same engine.I bought it about two years ago. It's close to 200K. I recently bought a 1987 Chevy R10 pickup with the same engine and about 90,000 original miles. I changed the water pump for the first time on the truck. Rust will kill the truck way before the engine dies. The 4.3L is a great engine with reasonable care. Some of the S10s and S15s have a remote mounted engine oil filter. Keep an eye on the two hoses. Some of the spark plugs are defintely not fun to change.

The 4x4s are somewhat like any other 4x4. If you run the right tires they'll go anywhere I need to go and that includes through some pretty deep mudholes.

Around 93 GM changed the fuel system which uses a spyder. That has caused problems for some owners.


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

Darren said:


> The 4.3L engines are good for way over 200,000 miles if they're taken care off. A friend ran one to 275,000 before giving it to a granddaughter over a year ago. It is still running. It never used a drop of oil between changes. They used synthetic after they bought it with about 60K. That was a 92 S15.


Not necessarily. That's exactly what mine was. We got it at 100K and drove it to 180K. It got regular maintenance but there was no way that motor was going to make it to 200K. 

Also, like Phil mentioned, I thought it was pretty tippy, too. It was a good enough car while we had it (and I really liked it, too) but I've definitely driven better...


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## Wis Bang 2 (Jan 12, 2010)

Aft er my father moved up from a 1988 2.8L S-10 pickup to a 93 T-15 Jimmy w/ the 4.3L, he said to me 'I'm not impressed'...

After he passed I bought it from Mom & took it to 190K. I called it the Money pit....

BTW the early 4.3 was introduced to the S-10 Blazer in 88...it didn't have balance shafts lime my 93 did...


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## Cornhusker (Mar 20, 2003)

We have a 75 Blazer, and it's a tank. 
Rough, tough, and will go about anywhere.
A friend had a S-10 but it was down more than it was up. To be fair, it was a piece of crap when he bought it.
I've known some that were well maintained and are still going strong.
Like any vehicle, it depends on how it's treated, climate, environment, etc.


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## roachhill (Jul 8, 2009)

If I were going to buy another S10 Blazer it wouldn't be a '92. That was a transition year and the throttle body tends to make the car a bit of a dog and offers poor mileage. If it were possible to find one that was in good shape, had low miles and a carb I think I'd jump on it. It's a good size car, rides better and gets better traction then my Jeep.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

I'm not sure what folks mean by the small GM SUVs being tippy. Here in WV I can put my S10 around curves at speeds many won't try and that's with aggressive mud tires not road tires. That means I have less tread on the road. I have no problem doing at least ten miles or sometimes twenty miles over the recommended speed through the curves. I've never had the truck get out of hand.

To get onto the farm I have to cross a creek and climb the bank on the other side. Four high always works although there have been times I've forgotten and crossed in 2WD and never noticed until I got up to the house. Nor have I had problems climbing the hills offroad to haul tools around the place. As another poster wrote, the miles you get out of the engine on a used vehicle depends on how well it was cared for before you buy it. As far as I know the engine doesn't have any designed in problems.

Just check the spyder on post 92 vehicles. If it leaks fuel into the engine you can dilute the oil. Check the hoses to the oil filter. You don't want those spewing your engine oil out on the road. With fuel injection, you're stuck with an in tank fuel pump. Don't empty the tank completely out or you will shorten the life of the pump. Then you or a mechanic get to pull the fuel. tank to replace the pump.


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## perry b (Dec 28, 2007)

I have a 2008 Trailblazer, 4.3 v6 with 57,000 miles. Wifes ride. She is well pleased with it.


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## fixer1958 (Dec 12, 2005)

perry b said:


> I have a 2008 Trailblazer, 4.3 v6 with 57,000 miles. Wifes ride. She is well pleased with it.


You might want to open the hood and look at the engine.
It's a 4.2 inline 6cyl.
Big difference.
Good vehicles though.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

It's interesting what you can find when you start looking. I didn't know the 4.3L has been sold to a bunch of manufacturers for industrial use such as in forklifts including Toyotas, Caterpillars, Hysters, Yales, and Clarks, etc. There is an issue with the starter bolts that I was not aware of. The bolts holding the starter go into the block vertically rather than the normal horizontal arrangement with other engines. That is not a problem unless the wrong bolts are used. What I find interesting is that builders of industrial equipment aren't going to pick an engine that won't provide reliable service. I didn't know the GM 4.3L engine has been used by so many manufacturers.

http://www.mhnetwork.com/news/the-4-3l-we-all-know-so-well/

Given the two I'd pick the oldest one, providing the bodies are in about the same shape, simply because the older vehicle isn't as complicated electronically from an engine control point of view. The older vehicle will be simpler to troubleshoot. I also like the manual 4WD drive engagement compared to the push a switch method with additional parts in the newer models.

My friend had a 92 with a TBI and it ran fine. They did change to the CPI in that year which used the spyder for fuel distribution. Here's a rack up of the various 4.3L engines through the years. For me more HP isn't necessarily better. The 91 S10 and 92 S15 I am familiar with kept up with traffic on the interstate. I'd check to see if either vehicle has limited slip in the rear axle. My 91 has that and it seems to make a difference when I'm driving around the farm. That's only if you're going in for serious 4x4 situations. Like any piece of equipment, I wonder if the lower HP engines have better longevity. 

Year Horsepower Torque Fuel System Compression Ratio RPO Applications
1985-86 155 hp (116 kW) @ 4000 rpm 230 lbÂ·ft (312 NÂ·m) @ 2400 RPM 4-BBL 9.3:1 LB1 1,2,3
1985 130 hp (97 kW) @ 3600 rpm 210 lbÂ·ft (285 NÂ·m) @ 2000 RPM TBI 9.3:1 LB4 4,5
1986-90 140 hp (100 kW) @ 4000 rpm 225 lbÂ·ft (305 NÂ·m) @ 2000 RPM TBI 9.3:1 LB4 4,5
1987-88 145 hp (108 kW) @ 4200 rpm 225 lbÂ·ft (305 NÂ·m) @ 2000 RPM TBI 9.3:1 LB4 5
1986 160 hp (120 kW) @ 4000 rpm 235 lbÂ·ft (319 NÂ·m) @ 2400 RPM TBI 9.3:1 LB4 3
1987-92 150 hp (110 kW) @ 4000 rpm 230 lbÂ·ft (312 NÂ·m) @ 2400 RPM TBI 9.3:1 LB4 2
1987-92 160 hp (120 kW) @ 4000 rpm 235 lbÂ·ft (319 NÂ·m) @ 2400 RPM TBI 9.1:1 LB4 1,3,6,7
1993-95 155 hp (116 kW) @ 4000 rpm 230 lbÂ·ft (312 NÂ·m) @ 2000 RPM TBI 9.1:1 LB4 2
1993-95 165 hp (123 kW) @ 4000 rpm 235 lbÂ·ft (319 NÂ·m) @ 2000 RPM TBI 9.1:1 LB4 1,3,6,7
1990-92 170 hp (130 kW) @ 4600 rpm 260 lbÂ·ft (353 NÂ·m) @ 3400 RPM TBI 9.1:1 LU2 1
1992-94 200 hp (150 kW) @ 4500 rpm 260 lbÂ·ft (353 NÂ·m) @ 3600 RPM CPI 9.1:1 L35 1,2,3
1995 190 hp (140 kW) @ 4500 rpm 260 lbÂ·ft (353 NÂ·m) @ 3400 RPM CPI 9.1:1 L35 1
1995 191 hp (142 kW) @ 4500 rpm 260 lbÂ·ft (353 NÂ·m) @ 3400 RPM CPI 9.1:1 L35 3
1995 195 hp (145 kW) @ 4500 rpm 260 lbÂ·ft (353 NÂ·m) @ 3400 RPM CPI 9.1:1 L35 2
1996 170 hp (130 kW) @ 4400 rpm 235 lbÂ·ft (319 NÂ·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 LF6 5
1997-2002 175 hp (130 kW) @ 4400 rpm 240 lbÂ·ft (325 NÂ·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 LF6 5
1996-2002 180 hp (130 kW) @ 4400 rpm 240 lbÂ·ft (325 NÂ·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 LF6 6
1996-2002 180 hp (130 kW) @ 4400 rpm 245 lbÂ·ft (332 NÂ·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 L35 5
1996-2002 190 hp (140 kW) @ 4400 rpm 250 lbÂ·ft (339 NÂ·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 L35 3,4,6
1996-2002 200 hp (150 kW) @ 4400 rpm 250 lbÂ·ft (339 NÂ·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 L35 2
1996-1998 200 hp (150 kW) @ 4400 rpm 255 lbÂ·ft (346 NÂ·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 L35 1
1999-2002 200 hp (150 kW) @ 4600 rpm 260 lbÂ·ft (353 NÂ·m) @ 2800 RPM SCPI 9.2:1 L35 7
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_90-Degree_V6_engine[/url


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Stef, I have an S-10 truck with the 4.3...great little truck, and since I drive it conservatively, I get decent MPG. _All_ vehicles get bad MPG in town.

I'd look hard at the '03 if I were buying. It should be easier to get parts for the newer of the two should you ever need them. I prefer newer vehicles over older ones, just because parts age and go bad with time. (I'd say the same thing with any make or model vehicle.)


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Parts availability is definitely an issue. If you or someone you have confidence in will do the repair work, parts can always be found although not necessarily easily. GM dealers have the ability to search other GM dealers inventory for obsolete parts. I recently looked for a lower radiator hose for my 87. There were 8 original hoses at 7 dealers across the US.


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## stef (Sep 14, 2002)

Thanks, everyone. I really don't understand a lot of what many of you wrote, but I'm sure it was helpful to someone else. That's why we come here; to ask and share, right?

I mainly wondered about these two particular vehicles, their general track record as far as longevity was concerned and typical repair histories.

As I said originally, I wouldn't buy anything without a thorough going over by my regular mechanic, but I thought they were common enough models that someone here would mostly likely own one, or have owned one in the past. 

Thanks again. 

stef


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## pistolsmom (Mar 19, 2005)

We have a 1999 K5 Blazer, a 1989 K1500 Blazer, ( the only differnece between a K5 and K1500 is the accessory package), a 1999 2 door Tahoe, and a 2004 4 door Tahoe. I LOVE them all!!! The 1999 is by far the best vehicle I have ever had....will go anywhere and repairs are not costly at all. ( Fuel pump was $12......newer Tahoe fuel pump is $400.) These are all full size......the 2003 you are looking at would have to be what used to be considered a S-10 as they quit making full size Blazers in 1994. Both my kids had S-10's and while they were too small for my liking they never had any problems with them. My full size Blazers each had the motors blow, one at 116,000 miles and the other at 132,000, otherwise they have been very good to us and each have in excess of 200,000 miles on them. My 1999 Tahoe is another story........everything and anything has gone wrong with it but it sure is pretty


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## pistolsmom (Mar 19, 2005)

Oh yeah DON'T buy one with a 2.8...had one for a couple months and couldn't stand it.....called it the "Gutless Wonder".


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

We have an 89 GMC Jimmy or a clone to the Blazer. Their worst component is the intake gasket. GM knew it was a dog but used anyhow. The aftermarket version is much better. Our catylitic converter plugged and that really has to be in place for it to work properly. We use the 4x4 regularly just to ensure things don't lock up, its kind of a standard thing with all 4x4.s Typical little things like the turn signal lever went and the blower motor and relay. That lever was pricey installed although cheap as a part. Nasty enough job time wise. Other wise we like it fine, I'd buy another but I do think its a little small.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

pistolsmom said:


> Oh yeah DON'T buy one with a 2.8...had one for a couple months and couldn't stand it.....called it the "Gutless Wonder".


Couldnt be any worse than Fords 2.8L. Gutless with poor mileage, who could ask for anything more? No wonder Jeep sold so many of their small suv of same era with the straight six. Not great mileage, but it has some power. Biggest mistake for them to given up that engine, it had developed quite a following.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

Shrek said:


> Any vehicle is reliable if you have a reliable mechanic. .


And deep enough pockets to put the mechanic's children through college single handed....


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## gunsmithgirl (Sep 28, 2003)

I have an older full size 85 blazer. Been running great for the past 8 years now. It has a 350 engine and a manual tranny, it's a pretty tough truck.


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## Beeman (Dec 29, 2002)

First off you need to clarify if you're looking at fullsize Blazres or S10 size Blazers.
Both are very reliable durable vehicles. There are some differences in powertrains which will matter depending on useage. I have seen both size versions go 300k mi. Much depends on how they were treated in their first life.


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## Aintlifegrand (Jun 3, 2005)

I have a 1996 Chevy Balzer.. 267,000 miles on it with only the replacement of the fuel pump until now..I need ac and heater core... but still drives and runs fine.


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## Honorine (Feb 27, 2006)

We have a 1982 full size K5 Blazer, its a real tank, its also diesel, so the mileage is pretty decent. She's a workhorse, use it to tow our tractors around, four wheel drive has come in really handy lately, it does have locking hubs. Most were made for military use. It is still possible to find a K5 or Jimmy that is diesel, they made them from 82 to 91 I think, worth thinking about if your looking at older ones. Only reason I agreed to buy this truck was because it was diesel, I wouldn't have wanted one with a gas engine. This one has earned its keep. Also had a S-10 pickup, with the 4.3 V6 in it, that was a great little truck, loved driving it, very strong engine even with high miles.


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## Shrek (May 1, 2002)

HermitJohn said:


> And deep enough pockets to put the mechanic's children through college single handed....


Thats where I'm lucky. My mechanics kid didn't go to college. His father let him GED out of high school and trained him in the shop, how to run a wrecker and a repo snatch truck and had his uncle train him in the family paint and body shop.

Best part is they sold me two first generation rag outs that were surrendered in leau of towing and storage for scale weight price to store in my barn for parts plus I have a crated engine I bought from a friend who lost his 88 model in a tornado at a bargain price of $600 so for under $1100 I have a decent parts house for it.


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## Drizler (Jun 16, 2002)

Curtis B said:


> We have an 05 trailblazer with 90K we have had for 3 yrs. All that we have had to do to it so far (other than oil and filter changes) is replace the radio and an injector. Some time this year we will need to have the doors remounted, since the epoxy is giving way, that will be 700.00. So far so good with ours.


They glued the doors on????? I find that hard to believe as all of them I have ever seen had welded hinges after they stopped the preferred bolting method. I know they bond some of the panels on but not the structural stuff. Gonna have to look at the one we have at work tonite and see how it is mounted. Either way 700 bucks seems like a lot to glue on a panel or fix a door.


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## Browncoat (Jun 8, 2009)

I've got a 2000 S10 Blazer with about 180K miles on it. Love it, love it, love it. The only thing I would change on it would that it would be a 4-door instead of a 2-door, but I don't ever want to get rid of it. Heck, I even love the way it sounds when I punch the gas. The only real problem I've ever had is that it goes through front brake pads a little quicker than I would like, but that's ok, since I really don't use them all that much.


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## JohnP (Sep 1, 2010)

Both years are pretty good but if the 88 is a 2.8 liter then it will sort of get out of it's own way with a 5 speed. If it's a 4.3 liter then you're fine. They're both reliable but the 03 will cost you more to get fixed and has more things to break due to it being more complex. The 03 has a totally electronic transmission, 4 oxygen sensors and a fuel pump that costs 2-3 times as much etc etc. (over 200 as opposed to under 100)

Hiring a mechanic for the 03 means someone with a high dollar scan tool and the knowledge to use it. $75-90 per hour. For the 88 you could find a mechanic at $40-60 and the repairs would be quicker due to less complexity and the parts cheaper. 

I've owned about 5 of them from 88 - 97 and have worked on a few for other people. Just worked on an 01 a few days ago.


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## Hoop (Jan 1, 2003)

Be careful when purchasing GM products with 6 cylinder engines built prior to 2005. GM used Dexcool anti freeze and head gaskets that fell apart prematurely. Changing the head gasket can run $1500 - $2000.
GM did a recall on this, but in fact, they were hauled into court, kicking & screaming, before the class action lawsuit forced GM into the recall.

Be aware that many of these vehicles are on the roads.


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## PhilJohnson (Dec 24, 2006)

Hoop said:


> Be careful when purchasing GM products with 6 cylinder engines built prior to 2005. GM used Dexcool anti freeze and head gaskets that fell apart prematurely. Changing the head gasket can run $1500 - $2000.
> GM did a recall on this, but in fact, they were hauled into court, kicking & screaming, before the class action lawsuit forced GM into the recall.
> 
> Be aware that many of these vehicles are on the roads.


Or you you do it yourself for less than 100 bucks :thumb: My Dad has done two of them. I wouldn't say it was fun but it was cheap way of getting two vehicles. The one has over 240,000 miles on it now and it has been 3 years since he fixed it.


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## Curtis B (Aug 15, 2008)

Drizler said:


> They glued the doors on????? I find that hard to believe as all of them I have ever seen had welded hinges after they stopped the preferred bolting method. I know they bond some of the panels on but not the structural stuff. Gonna have to look at the one we have at work tonite and see how it is mounted. Either way 700 bucks seems like a lot to glue on a panel or fix a door.


Yep, they do, take a look (I was suprised and dissapointed to say the least). It is an industrial epoxy, my mechanic will remove them, and then weld them back on and paint the welds. That is 700 for all four. I for one wish they still bolted them on.


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## Drizler (Jun 16, 2002)

Curtis B said:


> Yep, they do, take a look (I was suprised and dissapointed to say the least). It is an industrial epoxy, my mechanic will remove them, and then weld them back on and paint the welds. That is 700 for all four. I for one wish they still bolted them on.


Crap, thats a typical USA made type of stunt. There is no epoxy on earth good enough for that job.:nono: I still say 700 clams is too much even though I am a cheap skate I am a smart cheep skate who knows the ropes. Before you spring for what those clowns should have done in the first place check here. Ask these guys how they fix em and how much it should cost. 

http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

These guys lurking here fix em for a living and will tell you exactly where the bear craps in the buckwheat. May be I am wrong but with most things of this type if you have the gear, in this case a simple door jack and a felt tip pen then you can position them right where they are supposed to be and just weld it on. With a jack I wouldn't hesitate to do a weld job like this myself and it;s not because I am a hot shot welder but it should be rather simple. At any rate when you do weld the on make sure to change out the doors bushings (at least the front ones that get all the wear). I could be wrong but still it's worth asking.:soap:


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## PhilJohnson (Dec 24, 2006)

Drizler said:


> Crap, thats a typical USA made type of stunt.


Well at least his frame didn't rust and then bust in two like a Toyota truck


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

PhilJohnson said:


> Well at least his frame didn't rust and then bust in two like a Toyota truck


LOL, so true!!!! And Toyota knew about it the whole time!! 

Toyota must have spent a blue billion buying all those old trucks back from buyers. One can only imagine the money spent, and how they quietly crushed and shredded them into scrap steel.


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

PhilJohnson said:


> Or you you do it yourself for less than 100 bucks :thumb: My Dad has done two of them. I wouldn't say it was fun but it was cheap way of getting two vehicles. The one has over 240,000 miles on it now and it has been 3 years since he fixed it.


I think I had right at a $100 in parts on mine, but the machine shop bill was around $250. First time I ever fooled with heads and if you follow the book, it's not really a hard job, at least not on these. 

As far as the Dexcool, I thought I had read the problem there was mixing Dexcool and regular antifreeze?


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## Cannon_Farms (Aug 28, 2008)

I have had both the big and small version. The small version I sold a few months back, it had 250 thousand miles, still ran great, and is still running strong for those folks who bought it. It was a 94 model, the 4wheel drive is a drawback unless you are a skilled mechanic. Upper control arms are about all we have had go bad on them, I had a 94 jimmy as well.

The large version was a 82, it was a fun toy but I wouldnt buy another one. I plan on looking for a jimmy or blazer for my kids when they are old enough to drive. Oh, and i got 18-20mpgs


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

> I plan on looking for a jimmy or blazer for my kids when they are old enough to drive.


:shocked:
I hope you're talking the old, full sized ones! 
Because the only thing _more_ dangerous to a new driver than a large SUV would be a smaller one like a (S10/Trail)Blazer. 

I know of three neighborhood teens who were nearly killed, in just the last year, when they rolled their SUVs. Two early 90s S10 Blazers and a early 2000 Suburban. 
Ranch-raised kids, btw, who started driving in their elementary years.

Seriously, research the stats. They're not pretty!


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## Cannon_Farms (Aug 28, 2008)

they are no more dangerous than the person driving them or a small pickup. if kids are going to be stupid they are going to get hurt or killed in any vehicle, its our job to make sure we prepare them as much as possible and for lack of better ways of putting it hope for the best. I can say after driving both in my op they are safer in the smaller one, I rolled a large bronco just barely hitting a curve trying to avoid an idiot who came into my lane and would have hit me. I felt I had more control over the small one, and ive been driving jacked up trucks just about all my life.

Sats are going to look rough because the smaller ones are more popular. The really are not that much higher than a car if you think about it


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

Yeah, that's what THEIR parents said, too. 
Argue with me to your hearts content. But _please_ do the research on this. 


The stats exist because of _physics_, not popularity. Add inexperienced drivers to physical laws that are not on your side and you have the makings of an unhappy ending...


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## Drizler (Jun 16, 2002)

PhilJohnson said:


> Well at least his frame didn't rust and then bust in two like a Toyota truck


Nope, the frame on my current Chitty Chevy 1990 is a 2500 so it's thick enough that it hasn't split yet. My last old Chitty Chevy 88 was a 1500 which has the thinner frame rails. That one did need a piece welded in to replace the rotted out section right below where your feet sit where the rails drop down under the cab. That's one thing you want to watch for with Chitty Chevys that come from the Rust Belt. They just love to collect Chit in those frame rails in that spot below your feet and they rust out there. 
FWIW a friend of mine just had to put an engine in a 2003 Chitty Chevy 1500. The oil pump went south while his wife was driving it and I guess she didn't stop. 67000 miles and a dead oil pump. A Toyota won't do that to you:duel:


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