# Water line HELP!! 200 psi ????



## LuLuToo (Dec 19, 2015)

Things are moving so fast! Our soon-to-be new neighbor is planning to ditch and lay his water line in 1 1/2 weeks. He has offered to let us lay our line in next to his, but that means we need to get it ordered like yesterday! He said he is laying 1" 200psi and buying it in 500ft rolls. Where do we get this line?? I found a place which lists Poly Water Line Coils. Is that what I need to order? I requested a quote, but I'm guessing they don't sell to individuals. The neighbor is bringing his from about 1000 miles away so I can't order from there. 

We also wonder if we should be using 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" since our line will run much farther than his. Any help??? 

We could pick up the line somewhere between Dayton, OH and Lexington, KY (or anywhere close to those areas). Any recommendations??

I truly appreciate any help you may be able to offer on this. 

LuLu


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## fordy (Sep 13, 2003)

LuLuToo said:


> Things are moving so fast! Our soon-to-be new neighbor is planning to ditch and lay his water line in 1 1/2 weeks. He has offered to let us lay our line in next to his, but that means we need to get it ordered like yesterday! He said he is laying 1" 200psi and buying it in 500ft rolls. Where do we get this line?? I found a place which lists Poly Water Line Coils. Is that what I need to order? I requested a quote, but I'm guessing they don't sell to individuals. The neighbor is bringing his from about 1000 miles away so I can't order from there.
> 
> We also wonder if we should be using 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" since our line will run much farther than his. Any help???
> 
> ...


 ..................I believe that line is called Poly Pipe ! I , don't know if putting both lines in the same ditch is a good thing or not . I'd want my own ditch because , IF , one line breaks they may have to move your line out of the way so repairs can be made . Murphy's law applies here I'm thinking because repair crews are not known for always using 'Best Practices' when making repairs NEXT to a perfectly good water line ! 
..................I'd call the water supply company and ask them to provide you with their specifications for what kind of line you need ! They , should also beable to tell you what SIZE of line you need to buy and install to 
supply your home with sufficient volume and pressure to meet your needs . 
..................Once you have obtained the correct specifications , I'd check with Ebay for a possible source for your line . Also , Poly Pipe is used by most oil companies to move salt water from wells to surface holding ponds until it can be processed or reinjected back into salt water injection wells . I'd bet their field personnel would be happy to answer any questions you might need to ask them . They are , extremely nice people ! , fordy


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

200 psi NSF IPS or CTS polyethylene pipe is made in the county about 1000' from where I sit. How long is your pipe run? I'll PM you tomorrow with more info. Can you pick it up near I79 in WV? PM me with a general location so I can see if there's a distributor near you to save you a drive.


The oil patch uses cheaper non-NSF poly which isn't suitable for potable water.


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## LuLuToo (Dec 19, 2015)

Darren said:


> 200 psi NSF IPS or CTS polyethylene pipe is made in the county about 1000' from where I sit. How long is your pipe run? I'll PM you tomorrow with more info. Can you pick it up near I79 in WV? PM me with a general location so I can see if there's a distributor near you to save you a drive.
> 
> 
> The oil patch uses cheaper non-NSF poly which isn't suitable for potable water.


Thanks! I will private message you the info.

LuLu


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

Personally, I'd use glue together schedule 40 PVC. Comes in 20' joints, (buy the kind with the 'bell' end so no separate couplings required) available at any plumbing supply or many Home improvement stores. PSI rating is 300-400 or so...it will say on the pipe. You don't have to buy a 500' roll(s) and have 100' feet left over. Plenty of standard fittings to use with it.

I have literally miles of it buried on my place, not a problem in 30+ years.

Yes, if it's a long way, go to bigger diameter.


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## Michael W. Smith (Jun 2, 2002)

You do NOT want to be "laying pipe" in 20' increments as TnAndy - each joint is a possible problem in the future.

Get a large roll of pipe and have 1 piece of pipe with two connections. 

Just be sure to bury the water pipe deep enough (below your average frost line) and don't forget to put a roll of wire in the ditch with your pipe so if it would ever need dug up, a metal detector will tell you exactly where the pipe is buried. (It may also be a good idea to draw a map telling where your line and neighbor's line is buried - and keep it in a safe place if needed in the future (whether you or somebody who has bought your house) so you or they know exactly where the water line is if other digging has to be done in the future.


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

Michael W. Smith said:


> You do NOT want to be "laying pipe" in 20' increments as TnAndy - each joint is a possible problem in the future.


Funny thing about those joints.....I've dug up some lines for other reasons, and if you kink the pipe in a backhoe bucket, you can get it to break there, but never had one come apart at the joint. Glue in a bell socket, and the pipe literally welds together as one.

As I said, been using it here for over 30 years, and it's done quite well, so I think my suggestion is as valid as roll pipe.



Michael W. Smith said:


> Get a large roll of pipe and have 1 piece of pipe with two connections.


OK....say they have 720' end to end. Say they can find the pipe in rolls of only 500....now you have a mechanical joint in it.....real source of a potential leak, especially if the pipe settles in the ditch and stretches at the joint.

OR say you CAN find it in 1,000' roll so you have no joints....what do you do with the leftover 280' ?

See where 20' at a time saves money ?






Michael W. Smith said:


> Just be sure to bury the water pipe deep enough (below your average frost line) and don't forget to put a roll of wire in the ditch with your pipe so if it would ever need dug up, a metal detector will tell you exactly where the pipe is buried. (It may also be a good idea to draw a map telling where your line and neighbor's line is buried - and keep it in a safe place if needed in the future (whether you or somebody who has bought your house) so you or they know exactly where the water line is if other digging has to be done in the future.


I'd agree with the map.....mine runs 6 pages with lots of photos of critical points, buried junctions, electrical lines, and so on. Somebody buys my place, that map is $1,000 extra at closing, and twice that if they come back in the future when they finally figure out what it's really worth


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

If you use Ford fittings you won't have a leak in your life time. You can also buy 200' rolls. Make sure you use the inserts. Those go in each end of the pipe at the joint. For reference, this is a pic of a Ford fitting. They come in many variations. This is a straight coupling. They can be removed and reused in the future if needed. For ex. if you want to T off the joint and run to a frost free hydrant later, you could dig the line up take the coupling apart and substitute a T.


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## bsmit24 (Dec 31, 2012)

Do you know what the pressure is at the source/main? You should be able to find a calculator online that will tell you how much pressure loss you will have over xx ft with a specific line size.


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## potter28 (Sep 10, 2014)

Use the 200 psi CTS pipe if the line is on public water, if well water, regular black poly line would be fine. Google plumbing supply companies in your area and most of them will carry what you need, and most will sell over the counter if your paying cash. They'll just charge you list price, if not look up a plumber and he'll sell you the pipe. And yes Tn Andy is correct that the strongest part of glue together pvc pipe is the joint, the problem is if you don't have a good glue joint, working in the dirt it is easy to get some dirt blown into the socket and have a bad joint, plus if the ditch is rocky, rough or needs filled in to level the bottom it creates areas of settlement where the pvc is not very flexible and over time stresses it and can crack. Ford type fittings are expensive but work well, I have used them on countless water lines at the curb stop with no problems. With pvc you would have to use a pvc male adapter at the stop, let someone drive over the curb stop if its not bedded in concrete and guess what happens? Male adapter shears at the stop, same as pitlass adapter at well casing with pvc ran to it. As for extra pipe left over, the pipe is relatively cheap, use what you need and sell the rest if there is any left.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

I PM'ed the name and number of the supplier of the 200 psi pipe in your area. I was told they can order as little as one coil from the factory here. They do not have to order a truck load.

When you and your neighbor lay the water line, make sure it's bedded in sand to protect it from rocks.


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

Darren said:


> Bed in sand to protect it from rocks.


We have very rocky ground here, to protect the line, we glued 100' at a time together and slid it inside a roll of 4" black, corrugated, sewer/drain pipe.

Wife on one end of that pipe, around 1983. No leaks or problems since then.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

TnAndy said:


> Funny thing about those joints.....I've dug up some lines for other reasons, and if you kink the pipe in a backhoe bucket, you can get it to break there, but never had one come apart at the joint. Glue in a bell socket, and the pipe literally welds together as one.
> 
> As I said, been using it here for over 30 years, and it's done quite well, so I think my suggestion is as valid as roll pipe.
> 
> ...


I ran 800' of pvc sch.40 for my water lines...two hydrants...and to a dwelling. I'm not a fan of mechanical joints underground either...pvc at the hydrants with female pvc fittings with steel collars.
I'm sure I have run 50,000 foot of pvc and pex by now without a leak.
No to the cheap black poly waterline underground.
There are some good underground waterline products out there...but I like the toughness of pvc.


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

On the farm I ran about 800-900' of 3" pvc pipe in 20' sticks and used hundreds of feet of 1 1/4" black poly pipe in 300' rolls. The poly pipe was a LOT less work and worked just fine.

If you have gophers you may want to use pipe no less than 1 1/2" diameter to prevent them from gnawing on the pipe for fun.


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