# Floor Leveling Compound



## javabrain (Nov 22, 2006)

I put down laminate flooring but the seams opened up after awhile due to imperfections in the subfloor. (It's plywood and I had the underlayment on).So it has been removed. I purchased bags of Floor Leveling compound and have thus far mixed one bag and have it spread out on the floor.
I used a straight 4 foot long 1X5 board to spread it out from one high point to the next. Then a trowel to smooth it over. I think I just made an ugly mess and was wondering if anyone who's done it can tell me of an easier way. It states on the bag not to add more water than they recommend (2.5 to 1 mixing ratio) because it will weaken it but it sure is tempting if it means I can get the compound to better flow beneathe the board as I pull it along the floor.
Any suggestions?


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## CatsPaw (Jun 16, 2006)

There are several types of floor leveler. I'm not an expert as I have only used this stuff a couple of times.

The portland stuff can dry faster than you can stuff a body in it. In that case I have filled small areas and gotten a general level, then gone back and skimmed a smooth coat over the ugly stuff with a trowel.

The drywall compound type stuff goes alittle better. But each has it's specific uses. As far as the portland stuff, my thinking is, it's filler, and strength is subjective. You don't want a bunch of potato chips under the floor, but, you can use more water to get it to flow and not worry so much about strength. You won't weaken it that much.

I think there is stuff that you can actually pour that may work also. I always end up reading the directions on every bag to figure out if it'll work the way I need it.

o.k. so that didn't really help.


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## Explorer (Dec 2, 2003)

Are you sure there wasn't a moisture problem? You do have a waterproof underlayment.


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## joken (Dec 25, 2005)

Use the concrete stuff and mix it thin so it will self level with limited trowelling


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## kmaproperties (Jul 6, 2005)

50 lb bag at home depot, self leveling 27.00 mix up and pour out on floor needs limited spreading. works very well.


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## javabrain (Nov 22, 2006)

Explorer said:


> Are you sure there wasn't a moisture problem? You do have a waterproof underlayment.


My flooring didn't buckle, there's definitely no moisture problem. I just have slight depressions between one floor joist and another that caused a dip or hill in the plywood subfloor. 

The compound I used is Poly underlay Floor Leveller by Lepage. I was thinking of how much easier things would be if it just levelled itself out. I will definitely check out what Home Depot has for self levelling compounds.


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## Explorer (Dec 2, 2003)

One thing I have found that is very useful is auto body filler. I comes in one qt cans and is fairly inexpensive. Do a small area at a time. It can be sanded down just like wood and if you don't get enough, just add more. Level with a small trowel.


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## sisterpine (May 9, 2004)

Every single time I have tried to work with any of the floor levelors I have had horrid problems! Next time I will definately try the auto stuff! thanks for the suggestion, KC


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## insanity (Aug 22, 2004)

Just thinking instead of patching the problem area maybe you could fix it from below. By nailing in a few braces/blocks between the floor joist. Cut them to fit tight and drive them up (or use a floor jack to push them up). Then nail or screw them into place. If it takes much pressure to push it up, id set a pillar of blocks under the problem area's brace to make sure it stays put.
If there's a low floor joist that's not lining up with the rest. You can drive shims between it and the floor to push the flooring up where its needed. This also works well on squeaks in a floor. Have a person step on the squeak over and over again until you can locate it from under the house. Then drive a shim in until it stops.(you can do this no matter whats covering the floor.)

If the butt joints (seams) of the plywood are swollen (usually due to rain while the house was under construction).If its OSB board instead of actual plywood it can swell really bad. You can rent a sander and grind them down pretty quick. (With the right sander, and grit paper).
Which I'm thinking might be your problem as Ive never seen ply wood sink between the floor joist. Unless the joist are to far apart or the plywood to thin. (maybe?) 

Not sure if they still make it or not as its been awhile since Ive seen any being used. But Dam-Tight (sp?) used to make a patch mix (white in color) that could be mixed with water for fast cure (in mins.) or latex additive for a slower stronger cure. The water mix worked great and could be made pretty thin with no problems. Thinking it was only recommend for poring up to 1/4inch thick at a time though. Sanded very easy! Which is what you want to do to get a uniform finish with no trial marks. A dry wall pole sander would work great with only 100 grit paper. We used this under vinyl to keep underlayment joints/dents/and nail holes, from showing threw in a few years.


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## suburbanite (Jul 27, 2006)

I'm lurking here this is good info.


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## jmmac (Jan 6, 2005)

You might want to try a compound called "Ardex" (spelling may be a little off) which you can find at a flooring store. I've used it before on small areas which were unlevel all over the floor. Great filler. Didn't think of the auto filler, but that sounds like it would work just fine. Also, since you are trying to level a wood floor, you might want to try a water based wood filler and sand it down to get the desired level. Best of Luck with whatever you decide.
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Actually, this is my wife's login. I saw her on the webpage and decided to look around. Found this. I'll be back to see what else gets posted. Thanks.


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