# Soap making planned for tommorrow....



## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

I think I have everything i need now....bought 2 muffin trays in the silicone stuff...and 2 medium size squares, a bit more expensive to a Kitty litter tray but oh well....have a heat resistent spoon, and thermometre. The only thing I dont have is a big bowl to mix it in....what do y'll use? I have a pottery one I can put my GM in to add the lye....but I dont think it is big enough when added to the oils. :shrug:
Cant wait...will let you all know how it goes. :clap:


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

I've mixed in dishpans, ceramic coated pots, stainless pots.

Just so we don't have any accidents...make sure you add your lye to your milk or water, and then your mixed lye solution to your oils. And your milk should be frozen solid if you are making 100% GM soap. dump the weighed lye over the weighed frozen milk cubes or chunks and mix until it is all melted. Then into the melted oils it goes!

Have fun!


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## krissy (Dec 29, 2008)

Have you considered trying the Room Temperature Cold Process Method. (RTCP) that way you can buy pass using the thermometers and all that fuss and you can use plastic if you want. Since everything your using is room temperature including the liquid your lye is mixed into. I've become a big fan of that method since i started using it a year ago. One other benefit to the room temp method is that your work time is a bit longer than with regular CP soap. 

And then you can use half your liquid as water and mix your lye in with that and later add in the goat's milk at trace. I don't have access to goat's milk so i use the concentrated canned goat's milk. That way when my soap is made up 100% of the liquid is considered goat's milk, but i keep the amounts separate until trace. By adding your liquid in at trace you don't need to fool with possibly burning your goat's milk or getting an orange soap from the sugars in the milk heating up before they should. Or deal with goats milk slush and all the variations on that. 

another thought is what kind of silicone muffin pans did you pick up. If they are the cheaper red ones from wal-mart your soap will have a red tint to it. For the silicone molds you really want the wilton brand ones to avoid the color bleeding into your soap.

What about a stick blender that is very important...... 

One other thing that works great for mixing your lye and liquid together is a 2 quart pitcher the kind you use to make kool-aid in..... and yes it can later be used for kool-aid again once it's washed well with soap and water. 

What is the size of your recipe, how many ounces of oils are you going to use. I also have taught many to make soap, and found that most start off with a recipe that is rather large. And should something happen, it can be a big pill to swallow. For a beginner a 1-2 pound recipe is a good place to start. But before that you need to fit your recipe to your mold. A great mold can even be a cardboard box, lol cut down to size, or even a plastic drawer organizer works great as well. But the best part is with a simple math problem you can tailor your recipe to fit your mold so you don't have excess soap being made. Then wonder what you will do with it fast. 

Then your recipe is also another imporatant issue. Did you run your recipe through a lye calc to make sure it's correct and has safe amounts of liquid and lye. And also are the proportions of the oils correct. I found many soap recipes found on the net to be iffy if not a poor recipe they are out of balance when you look at the balance of the different oils being used.


just a thought,
sorry that it was a bit more information than you might be looking for.


edited to add also a digital scale is a necessity. Don't trust a recipe that is based on a cup of this and a tablespoon of that. You need actual weight measurements. And it's best to weigh in grams because you can be more accurate than with ounces.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

krissy said:


> Have you considered trying the Room Temperature Cold Process Method. (RTCP) that way you can buy pass using the thermometers and all that fuss and you can use plastic if you want. Since everything your using is room temperature including the liquid your lye is mixed into.


Not a good way to go when using Real Milk!



> And then you can use half your liquid as water and mix your lye in with that and later add in the goat's milk at trace. I don't have access to goat's milk so i use the concentrated canned goat's milk. That way when my soap is made up 100% of the liquid is considered goat's milk, but i keep the amounts separate until trace. By adding your liquid in at trace you don't need to fool with possibly burning your goat's milk or getting an orange soap from the sugars in the milk heating up before they should. Or deal with goats milk slush and all the variations on that.


If you use a discounted lye solution, you can run into trouble using this method. water is 100% saturated with equal part of water/lye. Let's say you're making a recipe using 3# oil with 3% superfat and using a 32% lye solution. Amont of lye called for is 6.8 oz and the amount of liquid is 14.4

You are awfully close to a totally saturated lye solution using 6.8 oz of water to 7.2 oz of of water. When you pour your lye solution into your oils, you better be moving fast to pour in the milk because it will be emulsifying fast!

The other thing you will want to watch for using RTCP with milk is the main purpose of the liquid in the lye solution is to efficiently distribute the lye to the oils. Insufficient liquid can cause you problems!





> For a beginner a 1-2 pound recipe is a good place to start.


Just a matter of opinion, but I recommed a recipe using 3 pounds of oil. It's small enough not to take a financial hit if you mess it up, but large enough to give you some shimmey room in case your scale isn't all that accurate.

If folks want to use a recipe using 1-2 pounds of oils, I suggest they convert the recipe to grams for better accuracy.



> I found many soap recipes found on the net to be iffy if not a poor recipe they are out of balance when you look at the balance of the different oils being used.


Boy-o, that's the truth! Always, Always Always double check the soap recipe you are going to use against a reputable lye calculator!!


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

Cyndi, why is it so difficult to make milk soap? I know you people that have the goats say it's easy but, it really is special to get it to smell right. what is your secret before i attempt this again because I stopped making milk because it just did not smell right. I did the ice, I did the frozen milk, I did the powdered milk, i did what else? I want milk soap. I love my soap but man, milks is the bomb.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

It's no secret - 

I have my oils ready first, the use frozen milk that the lye is dumped into (about 1/3 of the lye, stir well, then half of what lye is left, stir well, then the rest, stir well - blend with stick blender to break up the rest of the frozen milk) Pour immediately into waiting oils. Bring to trace, pour into molds, insulate well (I wrap mold in 2 wool blankets and set on top of running clothes dryer). Unmold about 24 hours later

There will always be an ammonia smell during saponification and immediately after unmolding, but it does go away.


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## linn (Jul 19, 2005)

tytbody said:


> Cyndi, why is it so difficult to make milk soap? I know you people that have the goats say it's easy but, it really is special to get it to smell right. what is your secret before i attempt this again because I stopped making milk because it just did not smell right. I did the ice, I did the frozen milk, I did the powdered milk, i did what else? I want milk soap. I love my soap but man, milks is the bomb.


If you use cream or evaporated milk as half the liquid, you can dissolve your lye in the water and add the cream or evap. milk at trace. I have never scorched my milk this way. It is the easiest way I know to get milk into the soap without burning it.


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

Thankyou everyone for your input....sure am glad I started this thread. Needless to say with Christmas and New Years tonight I havent made soap yet....my hubby wont let me make it without him here....once he sees the process and how safe it is he will relax. 
We dont have Walmart in Oz.... so my silicone trays are bright pink, being my favorite color and all.  I will keep you posted on my progress.


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

linn said:


> If you use cream or evaporated milk as half the liquid, you can dissolve your lye in the water and add the cream or evap. milk at trace. I have never scorched my milk this way. It is the easiest way I know to get milk into the soap without burning it.


okay, since I'm impatient mama and I love to make soap, I'm going to try evaporated milk today. I don't want to wait for the milk to freeze. When my manfriend gets here, I'll go to the store and get som. I really love the buttermilk soaps though, I thougth they were were creamier, if there is such a word. have you used the buttermilk this way also? I think once i find a milk way, that I like, I may go back to it. But I just love scents and I found with the milk soaps, even my Lavender didn't smell as good as my regular veggie soaps.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Buttermilk .... I wouldn't say that Real buttermilk is creamier. What is left after you make butter from cream is a thin whey. All the fat in the cream is used in the butter. The whey is full of protein that makes a silkier soap, but they are not 'creamier'.

The buttermilk you will buy in the store is actually milk (whole, 2%, 1%) that has had a culture added to it for flavor. Not the same as Real buttermilk (what is left over after making butter)


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

Well people around here use it as buttermilk no matter how it's made that's all we have. We are city folk.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Gotta use what you have!

I've also found powdered buttermilk ....


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

I liked the powdered but again, didn't work all the way right. I may go back to it. It was even good for just having around the house.


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## luv2farm (Feb 15, 2008)

MullersLaneFarm said:


> Always, Always Always double check the soap recipe you are going to use against a reputable lye calculator!!


I am NOT a stupid woman.........but I have a VERY hard time "reading" the calculators. Heck, I even have a difficult time just figuring out *where* to plug in the amounts on some of them, much less being able to *read* them!! Is there one out there that is easy to read for us beginners? Now I have made soap before (even outside in an iron kettle with lye, water and lard.....just pour it in and stir till thick), but I always had __ pounds of water, __ of lye, __ pounds of lard for a recipe. I have a general idea of whats going on, and have even read, and own lots of books on the subject. But all of this chemical stuff is above my head :shrug: Is there a website, or book, that some of you can recommend that is a simplier read than many of the websites (and even many of the posts here are way too technicial).


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

Steph, I understand what you mean. sometimes the chemical make up that people talk is a bit much. Just throw it out. I work on percentages. I had an excel one but now use the soapmaker. It really is easy. If you decide you want 20% of something. you just keep putting in numbers until it gets to 20%. it is very easy very good. and it's your's and it's not expensive. go here, I think they have pictures of it. you can down load it for trial also, I think. yes, here it is. http://www.soapmaker.ca/ the trial is on the right hand side. If you have questions today, I'm off and I can help you play with it. Trust me, it's good. If you want an online one that may also be easy, try Majestic Mountain Sage. http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php I've used this also. I'll help you.


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

www.summerbeemeadow.com is good too. But I pretty much use soapcalc.com...but it can look technical.


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## luv2farm (Feb 15, 2008)

*tytbody*, Thanks for the calculator at thesage.......This is simple and usable!!!!!! And looks like alot of nice recipes also. I hope to get "into" making some different soaps. I only do the old time lye soap right now. Lye, water, lard. But , I'd like to play around with some of the "smelly" ones!!


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

as long as lye, water lard work and you have good percentages, no problem. do you mean you want to buy some fragrance oils to add to your base soap recipe? 
sometimes too many oils is not necessary. I think I tried a lot and then I'm still down to my basic, veggie soap. lol. did borage, almond, apricot, heem, emu, and more and for what. I don't even use them. too expensive. lol. feel free to email me any time. I'm always on my puter. Love it.


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

krissy said:


> Have you considered trying the Room Temperature Cold Process Method. (RTCP) that way you can buy pass using the thermometers and all that fuss and you can use plastic if you want. Since everything your using is room temperature including the liquid your lye is mixed into. I've become a big fan of that method since i started using it a year ago. One other benefit to the room temp method is that your work time is a bit longer than with regular CP soap.
> 
> And then you can use half your liquid as water and mix your lye in with that and later add in the goat's milk at trace. I don't have access to goat's milk so i use the concentrated canned goat's milk. That way when my soap is made up 100% of the liquid is considered goat's milk, but i keep the amounts separate until trace. By adding your liquid in at trace you don't need to fool with possibly burning your goat's milk or getting an orange soap from the sugars in the milk heating up before they should. Or deal with goats milk slush and all the variations on that.
> 
> ...


I actually didnt measure the temp of anything during my first soap batch....should I have? It still traced and looks like it is doing what its supposed to do. We are having such horrible hot weather I am wondering if it will cure....any thoughts on keeping it cool so curing can occur....its more like melting at the moment. Your advice is much appreciated.


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

Shazz, did you read a recipe before you attempted making soap? did you read about temps, utensils, what to look for, etc ? sounds like you are missing quite a lot and I say go back and start over. you can rebatch but if you didn't do a regular batch right I doubt rebatching will help at this point. but some will say that. I say just start over. Who cares how much oils you lost. You are learning. i will cure, but just take a bit longer.


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

tytbody said:


> Shazz, did you read a recipe before you attempted making soap? did you read about temps, utensils, what to look for, etc ? sounds like you are missing quite a lot and I say go back and start over. you can rebatch but if you didn't do a regular batch right I doubt rebatching will help at this point. but some will say that. I say just start over. Who cares how much oils you lost. You are learning. i will cure, but just take a bit longer.


Duh!! of course...I made it exactly the way kidsngarden posted...I use frozen GM why would I need to measure a temp, the whole idea is to keep it from getting too hot...Do you have advice now after the fact tytbody?


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

I guess, since I'm coming in assbackward on your project. but I also take temp of oils. they can be too hot. is it hardening yet? What do you plan to do with what you have?


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

Yes it is hardening...as suggested I have placed them on a shelved rack so air can get around it. This batch is definately a keeper batch lol....and lucky family 
It doesnt have a scent so next batch I will add an essential oil see what happens.


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

this is just a thought. are you planning on making another milk soap or regular? 
do you have your eo already? 
i was thinking maybe not add the eo until you get a batch to come out correctly so as not to waste the eo. Unless you don't mind then I guess it's okay.


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

I will probably always make GM cold press soap....so it depends how much of EO I would need to get a nice fragrance....which I will have to work out and then run my recipe through the calc again.


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

do you have some eo's now?


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

Yes they are the little 10ml bottles...


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

oh little littles. I use about 1 ounce in 32 ounce of oils. I don't make large batches as it's only for me. I usually buy by the 8oz bottle but only lavendin and patchouli because I use them more often.


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

My recipe has 48 oz oils, so I wouldnt need much more than an ounce would I?


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

Depends on the oil. supplier, etc. at least for me. What are you planning on using? fruit oils need more as they fade, don't hold the scent unless you have a bottom note.


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

The only fruit essential oils are citrus and I always seat them with litsea which holds well for me for some reason. Just a bit of patch will help them stick too. Citrus by themselves, don't count on it!


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

Mine is a Float Blend...Mandarin, Engl Lavender, Lime, Sweet Majoram, Palmarosa, Myrhh. It smells divine in the bottle. Do I need to use anything else or will it hold...I dont understand how EO's work. Thanks


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

I rarely have a hard time with blends holding. I think it will be fine. When I use eo's the usage rate is typically .2 - .5 oz PPO. That is anise, eucalyptus, tea tree and mints (strong oils) on the lower end and the citruses on the high end. Come to think of it I may even add more citrus eo with the exception of litsea.


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

Do I add them at trace or do I melt it in with the oils??


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

I add them at thin trace.


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

Shazza said:


> Mine is a Float Blend...Mandarin, Engl Lavender, Lime, Sweet Majoram, Palmarosa, Myrhh. It smells divine in the bottle. Do I need to use anything else or will it hold...I dont understand how EO's work. Thanks


wow wee.eyes lighting up. Where did you find such a blend? Did you make it? if it was already mixed for you, it will hold. usually people that sell the blends have a pretty good handle on blending. 

My Lady Julia, has one that I just love and will always buy. it has palmarosa in it and it just turns me on. 

I think the eo thing will come in time. I say like, when you want to use one, come and talk about your plans. Each one does work differently in different soaps. Just because Mary uses x don't feel like if you use x it will come out the same, sometimes, it just varies but will still be in the ball park. 

mint meadows has some good blends also. Buying blends also frees up some money so you don't have to buy each individual eo.


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

The company I have bought all my supplies from make their own blends etc....it is way on the other side of Oz but is cheap to post so I will continue to buy.  I cant wait to put it in my next soap...no scent GM soap is a bit boring.


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## Shazza (Nov 20, 2004)

This is a hubby question....he wants to know what do I do with all the soap while it is curing...my first lot is on the shelving, if I make another batch before this one cures which is highly likely he is wondering where it goes?
Do you'll have soap curing all over your houses??


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

yup, any where you can put it. Put it in the bathroom if you can, I put mine on a floor, on shelves, in boxes. 
and I know what you mean about *naked* soap. Boring. lol


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

Shazza said:


> The company I have bought all my supplies from make their own blends etc....it is way on the other side of Oz but is cheap to post so I will continue to buy.  I cant wait to put it in my next soap...no scent GM soap is a bit boring.


lucky you. I love blends. You will be looking for a place to store them also pretty soon. Shelving will do.. lol :dance:


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## tytbody (Dec 29, 2008)

I'm going to make some Myan gold milk soap today. Agghhh. Should have never opened the bottle. And it's raining, heck ya.


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