# A tip for soap makers



## moopups (May 12, 2002)

If you use a log style pouring mold to create bars, and its made of wood, hopefully equipped with hinged sides, using plastic film leaves wrinkles in the soap. So I switched to freezer wrap. Now, getting the wrap into the mold was the hard part, that is with seamless corners. 

So I built an almost identical size elevated form that will just barely fit into the molds I use. Its about 6 inches high, and is the easiest thing to use. I just cut the wrap to the appropriate sizes, fold it over the form, apply the second piece, and place a length of low adherence tape vertical at the corners, its the same tape that is used to seal meat that is to be frozen. So basically my mold lining tray is pre shaped before it goes into the wood mold.

Remember the inverted shoe shaped form that cobblers use? Same principle.


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

that is a good tip. someone posted this idea once and i tried to use cardboard for the lining mold. it didn't work so well. i am sure that if i had a rigid lining mold, it would work out great.

i am trying to/preparing to design my own lining made from recycled plexiglass. i plan to make them with a tab on the long pieces and a notch on the short pieces. hopefully the bottom plate will hold it together. i hope the plexiglass will peel off the soap log easily.


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## moopups (May 12, 2002)

Mean while back at the ranch, this idea got further refined a few minutes ago. I drew out, on the freezer paper a rectangle that has 4 missing squares, one at each corner, through careful measurement. Now I am saving paper in that there is no over lap, the corners (and sides) just fold up, actually down as they are being made, short clips of tape are applied, easy to remove from the bar.

Now to trace out the measured cardboard on to a sheet of thin metal (roofing tin), all I will have to do is trace around the shape, on the freezer paper, use the scissors, and its ready to shape. 

My molds are 14 and 5/8ths, by 3 and 1/2 by 1 and 1/2 deep, by 2 and 1/2 as the width. This gives a 6.5 ounce bar 5 times. All uniformly sized. The two ends do protrude within the 14 and 5/8 space, the extra 1/8th of an inch gives shrinkage room.

Not sure these numbers are working, I am still on the pain pills for the split finger. Basically , divide a 2 X 4 into 5 sections, its working for me. The cutting stop in the miter box will be the controlling factor. Assumed by these failing eyes to be 2 and 7/16ths distance from the downward cutting slot. You lady carpenters - stop panting, I can hear you from here!


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