# Post and beam shed



## Post_Oakie (Aug 20, 2012)

Most of my building over the years has been "conventional", but I decided to use my portable sawmill to cut oak posts and beams for a tool shed that will house a generator, welder, air compressor, and wood planer (along with garden tools for my wife). Part of the challenge is to do it with tools I already have-- chain saw, skill saw, drill & a few hand tools.

First step is cutting shoulders on the posts. I squared the logs out to the size of the post with the shoulders, then milled part way down the log, then turned the log around to mill out the top part of the post. I used a chain saw to finish the cuts. The cut-out part will be used for flooring.


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## KMA1 (Dec 9, 2006)

Hey, I really love the looks of that beam you are working on. Sounds like a great project. Hope you will post pictures all along as you build. Good Luck!


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Yes, please keep the details and pictures of this project flowing. I have plans to do a very similar project to build a summer porch.... out on a mountain peak looking west.. for those great sunset evening...

I've studied post and beam buildings, but never tried to build one.. I'd love to see how you do it..


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## Post_Oakie (Aug 20, 2012)

Thought I'd try a framing joint I'd seen, but don't remember the name of it. Maybe a timber framer can help me out. It basically joins two short beams to make a long one without losing much strength. I basically cut half way through the beam at an angle and removed the wood to the outside of the cut. Then flipped the beam over and did the same on the other side, so it looks a little like a pair of scissors. Then did the same to the second beam, and fitted them together. I was amazed that they actually fit tightly. Drill a couple of holes and drive in pegs, and it feels pretty solid. I can cut long beams on my portable sawmill, but like the idea of putting short logs to use.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

That's a cool joint.. I've never seen anything quite like it.... I know it's not a scarf joint.. 

So would you support that under the joint, or is that not going to bear any load in any direction?

The reason I am asking is, because of the crack I am seeing... you're pinning right above the crack, and I am wondering how weak that joint would be because of it?

Or is this just a prototype test for yourself?


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## barn-apart (Feb 10, 2005)

scarf joint,there are a few variations.


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## Post_Oakie (Aug 20, 2012)

Where else can I pin it? At the very least, I figure it would be as strong as a 3x6, and this is oak. It will support the rafters, and will have braces under it. I've since seen joints that are self-locking, though they are much more intricate. Hopefully, it goes up this weekend!

Barn-apart, sounds like you've got a solid background in timberframing. From your name, I assume you reclaim old barns? Would like to hear more about what you're doing.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

I'd imagine that would be one of the strongest kinds of joints you could use, but it was the crack and where it is that concerned me of weakening the joint.


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## barn-apart (Feb 10, 2005)

Scaf joints are usually placed over the verticles, but I have seen them placed above the knee braces although the knee brace location did show some deflection over 150+ years, so i would recommend placement above the verticle's.
Been dismantling and building log and timberframes for 30+ years. Learned much from taking these old buildings apart.


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## fordy (Sep 13, 2003)

barn-apart said:


> Scaf joints are usually placed over the verticles, but I have seen them placed above the knee braces although the knee brace location did show some deflection over 150+ years, so i would recommend placement above the verticle's.
> Been dismantling and building log and timberframes for 30+ years. Learned much from taking these old buildings apart.


 
................Did you consider using water proof glue ? I realize they didn't use such "way back when" , but seems it might make make the joint stronger . , thanks , fordy


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## barn-apart (Feb 10, 2005)

Fordy,
I use liquid wood to repair many of the weather or decayed joint and timbers, so I am confident that it would work in new joints as well. Good idea really.


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