# Ford 8n and a brush hog for HILLS?



## dablack (Jul 21, 2011)

Just picked up 30 acres of hilly land. About 10 acres of it is rolling pastures that need to be mowed. It is mostly weeds and brushy stuff about 8" tall. Would a 8n and a 5' brush hog be able to cut on hills? I know a 8n isn't powerful but there are plenty of them for sale around here. 

thanks
Austin


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## Evons hubby (Oct 3, 2005)

I have bushhogged a lot of hillsides with a to20 ferguson as well as a a 9n ford using my trusty old dixie woods cutter 5' rotary mower. Your 8n is slightly larger and a bit more power than either of those. The things to watch for.... be sure you use an override clutch on the pto so you can stop the tractor. this is a MUST for safety as those tractors do not have live power and will push you over a bank without it. Be sure to mow up and down instead of crosswise on steep ground. Lose the third arm and use a chain in its place on the toplink if you are mowing across ditches and gullys, otherwise you will end up stuck with your tractor drive wheels hanging in the air going across them. happy mowing!


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## Travis in Louisiana (May 14, 2002)

The 8N would cut it, just go slow. We had one when I was growing up, but while I was bush hogging, if you pushed on the clutch to stop, the bush hog would still push the tractor a good ways before it stopped, so I would have to allow for this. If it is too steep, any tractor could tip over and I don't think you can widen out the back tires on the 8N to be more stable. Just thoughts from memory!


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

If you can safely drive the tractor on the hill, you can mow it.

Youd' be better off though to find a tractor with a "live" PTO so you have more control

If you DO get an 8N or similar, DO get an "over-running clutch" so the tractor will stop moving when you depress the clutch and the mower is still turning


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

I wouldnt have an early Ford product on the place, Why do you think theres so many of them around? Likely for sale, or broke down, or junk to be used for parts. If your not yet, u get it and youll become a very good machanic, OR youll pay the price of a good tractor for someone else to machanic for you. Youll also learn a few new cuss words plus put extra wear on the ones you know already know/use.

As was said, GET AN OVERRIDEING CLUTCH to go inbetween the fords (I wont demean the word tractor by useing it here), pto and the pto shaft on the mower. Learn to put the gearshift into nutrial when wanting to stop. The front wheels can be extended out from the engine, AND the back wheels can be turned around to spread them out.

Make sure your brakes work GREAT before brush hogging with it.

What are you paying for the outfit??


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

The 8N is simply to operate, repair, the parts are available all over, and there are quite a few out there. I have a couple of them and they will cut hills...I prefer going down if possible...any tractor is dangerous.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

Look for a Jubilee. Looks just like the older Fords but has live pto. Oddly they usually sell cheaper than an 8N. I'd much rather have a Jubilee. Though there are lot 60s era tractors with live pto, even diesels that will sell less than a restored 8N. Just be careful that diesel isnt some oddball thing with no parts available. The big names had their oddball stuff. Just cause its painted green or red doesnt mean it has parts support. The old Fords arent particularly great tractors but the parts are cheap and you can find just about any part you want, either used or as a reproduction.


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

Brush hogs and snowblowers are more difficult to operate with tractors that lack live pto. But you asked if it would do it. I think it would be able to do it. It would be hard if you had bigger brush and needed to slow down or stop while the brush hog kept going. The Ford 9N fails that way. But if you go in a slow enough gear for the steepest hill, you won't have the trouble of changing gears and the pto stopping.
The old Fords do not have a first gear that is slow enough for a rototiller or a reverse that's slow enough for a snow blower.
But if Grandpa lived on raw milk and bacon fat and drove a Ford 9N, I 'spose you can too.


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## rambler (Jan 20, 2004)

HermitJohn said:


> Look for a Jubilee. Looks just like the older Fords but has live pto.


I believe the Jub had live hydraulics, but the first Ford with live pto was the 100 series with a '6' in the middle - 660, 760, 860, 0r 960. (Don't know that they made each of those?)

I just looked on TractorData, and they say they had a transmission pto (not live), but then list live as an option. I'm not aware of that from the factory, but I've been wrong before..... Anyhow, most of them would not be live pto?

--->Paul


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> Look for a Jubilee. Looks just like the older Fords but has* live pto*


Nope.
The PTO doesn't disengage seperately on an NAA

It does have live hydraulics, and more horsepower


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

I am sure you are right. I was confusing live hydraulics with live pto in my clouded brain. Been too long since I've been around one I guess.


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## dablack (Jul 21, 2011)

Thanks everyone. I put myself through college as a motorcycle mechanic and now I'm a vintage ford truck nut (and gen 1 mercury cougars....) so I'm ok around classics. Most of the setups I've seen on craigslist are $1500 - 2500 with the brush hogs included. I've even seen some with a post hole digger attachment. I haven't gone to look at any of these yet, but will be doing so in the spring (tax return). Now that I know a 8N can do it, I'm pretty excited. I love classic fords.

thanks
Austin


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

dablack

Where are you located?


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## dablack (Jul 21, 2011)

We are in the Lufkin, TX area.

thanks
Austin


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

You might try this:
http://awesomehenry.com/v8fordconversions/


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

I think I would take a look at the A-C WD45 as a first tractor these days. More power, live PTO, live hydraulics, and power shift rear wheels. With a wide front end, it would be more versatile and you might fit a FEL to it. One with the three point hitch conversion would be ideal. This said from a loyal Ford 9N owner who has used the five foot bush hog on level ground, but not on hills.

Google Yesterday's Tractors for more info: http://www.ytmag.com/

geo


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

Agree with you whole heartedly Geo.

IF you get a ford, Remember that if you want a post hole digger, you have to get one with a bit that will augur itself down, as a ford dont have downward push. Ihat works by gravity and weight. It only has lift.


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

At least the n series


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> a ford dont have downward push


None of them push down on the 3 pt hitch


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## jacksun65 (Feb 5, 2007)

Yvonne's hubby said:


> Lose the third arm and use a chain in its place on the toplink if you are mowing across ditches and gullys, otherwise you will end up stuck with your tractor drive wheels hanging in the air going across them. happy mowing!


Replacing the top link with a chain is a surefire way to DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is nothing to prevent the mower from coming up over on top of the operator. Especially with a low tractor like an 8n.


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## VERN in IL (Nov 30, 2008)

jacksun65 said:


> *Replacing the top link with a chain is a surefire way to DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is nothing to prevent the mower from coming up over on top of the operator. Especially with a low tractor like an 8n.*


using a chain sounds STUPID CRAZY DANGEROUS!!!!!


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

I wont comment one way or another. I cant imagine my brush hog brush hog pull type as heavy as it is being able to come up high enough to come down over the tractor. Besides the weight, 6ft, It would seem the PTO would help stop this from happening.


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## Evons hubby (Oct 3, 2005)

jacksun65 said:


> Replacing the top link with a chain is a surefire way to DIE!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is nothing to prevent the mower from coming up over on top of the operator. Especially with a low tractor like an 8n.


gravity seems to work pretty well for this normally. I have never once... in 30 years of mowing rough ground and trees that I had trouble getting the tractor over have the back end of a mower come off the ground, much less up over the tractor. Lucky I guess huh? I have been stuck in gullies though, and have had to go and pull out neighbors who were stuck because of the rigid third arm.


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## Molly Mckee (Jul 8, 2006)

I don't know what you call a hill, but 8n's tend to be light in the front and I would be afraid of the front coming off the ground going up a steep hill, or the tractor rolling going around the hill. I wouldn't buy a tractor that is marginal for the job I was planning to do, more power is useful and stability is important.


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

Molly Mckee said:


> I don't know what you call a hill, but 8n's tend to be light in the front and I would be afraid of the front coming off the ground going up a steep hill, or the tractor rolling going around the hill. I wouldn't buy a tractor that is marginal for the job I was planning to do, more power is useful and stability is important.


I believe you are absolutely correct. The rear balance capacity of the N series is about 800-1000 lbs and that depends on how far out the load is positioned for the fulcrum effect. The weight on my five foot Dixie chopper is pretty far out there, and lifting it off the ground really causes the front wheels to come up. Do this on a slope and you may tip backwards or at least lose front wheel steering ability. 

I've never used a chain in place of the top link, since I have a 9N without a Zane thang for position control. The top link is very sensitive and tends to move the chopper up and down as it is with differences in ground levels. I think some advocate using a chain is to substutute it for a stump jumper--in my opinion very dangerous if you hit a stump, stall the mower, but the tractor tries to churn forward, tipping over backwards. Not good. The top link may give some protection, but probably not much.

I believe the N series was invented before the bush hog type mowers were invented, but they became popular because of the three point hitch as an add on. Actually, the cutting ability for the five-foot//N tractor is pushing it a bit in heavy pasture type grasses, unless you have the blade very sharp and spinning at fast speed--otherwise it will bog down(especially on a N tractor with a worn governor)---and I wouldn't trust it on slopes and hills. 

Otherwise, I love my 9N, no matter what FBB says. It's a year older'n me, so if I can keep it going, I know there's hope for me...  

geo


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## KMA1 (Dec 9, 2006)

I had a friend who bushhogged on the hills in North Alabama with a tractor without a live PTO. In 1996 it killed him when he was pushed over a bluff and fell 30 feet with the tractor and bushhog.


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## Evons hubby (Oct 3, 2005)

KMA1 said:


> I had a friend who bushhogged on the hills in North Alabama with a tractor without a live PTO. In 1996 it killed him when he was pushed over a bluff and fell 30 feet with the tractor and bushhog.


Yep, thats why its so important to have the override clutch unit. A bushhog has a LOT of power stored when the blade is spinning and without that override it can push a tractor a long distance.


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

Without a overrideing clutch too appairantly, OR the knowledge to kick it into nuteral, Sad,


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## Lazy J (Jan 2, 2008)

*Why not just pay a neighbor to bush hog it for you with a large tractor and bush hog? The higher horsepower will tear up the small saplings better, you save your time, and you don't put yourself in a dangerous situation with antiquated machinery.*


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

Used to bushhog my hills with my 8N and a 5' hog. Can it do it? Sure! Was if fun? No! 

The power is perfectly adequate. With the hog riding on its rear wheel, there is no problem with having the front wheels go up in the air. More than enough slop in the lift linkage to allow for ruts and minor ditches. 

Constantly dancing between neutral and a forward gear was frustrating and difficult. Oh for the love of a live pto! Overruning clutches are nifty, if they work. Ball it up with vines and you lock it. Get a cheap one and it fails quickly. It's the best safety option out there, but it's still not very good, sometimes you still get shoved forward a bit.

Going up and down the hills is mighty exciting, what with all the clutch pedal dancing you get to do having that non-live pto. Several times I found myself flying down the hill, or doing a wheelie up it.

Switched to going cross the hill (not that steep). That worked better, until I nearly flipped the rig. Caught a stump on the lower edge of the hog. Instantly jerked the tractor to the downhill side, tipping it right over. I hit the brake and the clutch, and steered into the roll. We all stopped with the tractor and hog jacknifed and tipped over about 45 degrees. Didn't like that either.


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

Sounds like u lucky to be here. '

Once when I got my first farm I was going to set a fence up a hill. I cut the locust logs into posts. I had a F-20 Farmall. If your familiar with them they have a BIG C drawbar. Well at the points of the C where the drawbar connected with the tractor someone had put a cross bar. With that I put a regular drawbar from the center of it back to the middle of the C and beyond for a regular drawbar. Anyway, I loaded those posts with one end a little under that inner cross piece and on top the outer drawbar with most of the post hanging out and up. As I was going up the hill, I was going slow so as to see any dips or rocks or stumps that might push the front end up. I had lost my older brother in a tractor accident and I was aware of what I ws doing. Tractor stalled and stopped. I got off and took the crank to start it. When I whipped the crank up, cause at that time I could go round and round till it started, unlike lately. Anyway, when I raised it up quick. The front end of the tractor came up a bit. I pulled it back down, went around and off loaded 1/2 the posts. Thats close enough.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

The responses regarding not using a chain is an over reaction. I have a large Bushhog brand rotary cutter that does not have a top link. It is designed to be carried on the lift arms and rear trail wheels. This feature allows the Bushhog to somewhat float over rough ground. I also have a smaller rotary cutter and it functions just like the larger one when a chain is used instead of a toplink. There are rotary cutters that are marketed from the manufacturer with chains part of the design. I live in the foothills of the Appalachian mountains and bushhog hundreds of acres of hills each year. My concern with using the small older tractor is stopping it. Once both rear wheels are locked, provided the brakes will lock them, it will slide like a sled down a steep hill and will do this with the steering out of control. Engine braking is mandatory but still dangerous. NEVER clutch the tractor with it pointing downhill!


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## Bret (Oct 3, 2003)

Do a little at a time. Walk each piece a couple of times first. Have someone keep an eye on you...near you but far enough to be safe. Don't run over this person. You have to watch their safety while you are watching yours. If it feels dangerouse...it is dangerous. If it feels safe it even more dangerous.


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## Bret (Oct 3, 2003)

Bret said:


> Do a little at a time. Walk each piece a couple of times first. Have someone keep an eye on you...near you but far enough to be safe. Don't run over this person. You have to watch their safety while you are watching yours. If it feels dangerouse...it is dangerous. If it feels safe it even more dangerous.


I am in no way trying to be funny about this. Be careful.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

I could not mow the narrow hillside gullys here without using a chain to replace the top link. I still have to watch the brush hog to prevent it from going too low or high in the front depending on whether I'm going into, bottoming out or coming out of the gully. The tractor does have a roll bar.

What really helps is a hydo transmission. I can ease into or back over anything slowly that's much taller than the tractor and grind it up.


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## Txrider (Jun 25, 2010)

I doubt the hills in Lufkin are gonna be a problem.. 

It'll do it, just slow.. Don't fret.. I mow with a '48 Farmall C tricycle and a shredder on a mechanical 3pt hitch hooked to the forward belly hydraulics. About the same HP tractor.

I don't use an override clutch either, just gotta have decent brakes and pay attention. About the only issue is I don't think I could ever run a tiller on that tractor.

I'll get a newer tractor when the C breaks enough to cost me a thousand or so to fix, but I got it free 20+ years ago and it's not looking like I'll be getting a newer tractor any time soon.

As others have said, ya wanna go real slow first time anyway, if not go ahead walk the whole thing first, never know what you can run into.. I'm lucky I didn't drop a rear wheel into my septic tank the first time I mowed my place.


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

That woulda been the shirts


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## Txrider (Jun 25, 2010)

FarmBoyBill said:


> That woulda been the shirts


Yup had just bought the place and was mowing it as it was all chest high, bumped up on top of something, stopped looked down real close, and realized one wheel was dead center on top of a barely buried concrete septic tank lid about 10ft in diameter..  Found a T post the hard way as well about 10 orange metal stakes, a couple of old water hoses and a piece of heavy copper wire about 10 feet long and 1/4 diameter.. 

But it's all clear now. Glad I wasn't on a heavier tractor, that C is pretty light as far as tractors go.


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## dablack (Jul 21, 2011)

The property we are purchasing is 30 minutes north of Lufkin. If you have ever been to Rusk (not the hospital), then you know how hilling the land it. Once I purchase it and start building I'm sure I will post some pictures.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

I have a '42 9N. I use it to brush hog about 3 acres and some box blade work. My land is all flat. I have the overrun clutch and check chains. I can't complain as far as doing those tasks. I've had it for a while so I know how it works and have been able to repair everything so far. Parts are no problem. I've converted to 12 volts which I like a bunch more. For a working tractor, I recommend 12v. Starts everytime regardless of how cold.

Few things to consider:

* Groundspeed combined with PTO speed makes the N series not work with tiller attachments.

* Works well with post hole diggers. No down pressure has never been a problem for me. I am more concerned with not getting one dug down deep.

* Get the overrun clutch. It is a safety issue.

* If you brush hog, get the check chains. Without them, you will be messing with height all the time. Set the chains up right and forget. I didn't get them for 5 years. When I did, the difference was amazing.

* Shut off the gas everytime you want to store and let it run out.

* If you store outside in the weather, you will be messing with the distributor all the time. It made a world of difference when I moved mine into the shop.

Here is mine:










And BTW, I agree that the brush hog is really rough. I bought it for $50 over 8 years ago and I still use it. I just have to add some gear oil every once in a while.


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## jacksun65 (Feb 5, 2007)

agmantoo said:


> The responses regarding not using a chain is an over reaction. I have a large Bushhog brand rotary cutter that does not have a top link. It is designed to be carried on the lift arms and rear trail wheels. This feature allows the Bushhog to somewhat float over rough ground. I also have a smaller rotary cutter and it functions just like the larger one when a chain is used instead of a toplink. There are rotary cutters that are marketed from the manufacturer with chains part of the design. I live in the foothills of the Appalachian mountains and bushhog hundreds of acres of hills each year. My concern with using the small older tractor is stopping it. Once both rear wheels are locked, provided the brakes will lock them, it will slide like a sled down a steep hill and will do this with the steering out of control. Engine braking is mandatory but still dangerous. NEVER clutch the tractor with it pointing downhill!


You can call it over reaction or what ever you want but once you are dead thats it. There is a top link for a reason. 
Last year we had a local man mowing some hills on his property he had been doing it for years. he was coming down a hill and the frount of the mower caught on a stump. The mower flipped up the pto shaft bent and it came down on his head. Now what do you tell his family?

People playing russian roulette get away sometime also.


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## Evons hubby (Oct 3, 2005)

jacksun65 said:


> You can call it over reaction or what ever you want but once you are dead thats it. There is a top link for a reason.
> Last year we had a local man mowing some hills on his property he had been doing it for years. he was coming down a hill and the frount of the mower caught on a stump. The mower flipped up the pto shaft bent and it came down on his head. Now what do you tell his family?
> 
> People playing russian roulette get away sometime also.


I would call it a very unusual combination of circumstances at play to cause that sort of accident. (assuming we are dealing with one of the old ford or fergusons and a 5 foot bushhog) The back wheels would have had to been set extremely wide, (in order for the bushhog to get between them) the pto shaft would have had to have been weak, possibly crystalized, (not extremely rare, but certainly not the norm), and hitting a stump at precisely the "wrong" height to get the rear of the bushhog to flip up. The design of the lift arms and hitch for the equipment makes it a nearly dead level hookup, which normally stops everything with a teeth jarring wham if/when you hit a solid obstacle. (Ask me how I know this.  ) Some folks get hit by lightning on a clear day too, but the odds are against it. Hate to hear about your neighbor. Farming is a dangerous occupation at best.


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## greengrow (Jul 3, 2011)

I would have a roll over bar added to any tractor to be safer.

Instead of replacing the top toplink with a chain you can shorten the toplink and put in a couple of lenghts of steel so that there is flex in the link. 

It has happend a lot of times on hills or even flat ground that something as small as a mounter seeder, or hay tedder has rolled tractors of even 100hp when the driver was not being careful.


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## Evons hubby (Oct 3, 2005)

greengrow said:


> I would have a roll over bar added to any tractor to be safer.
> 
> Instead of replacing the top toplink with a chain you can shorten the toplink and put in a couple of lenghts of steel so that there is flex in the link.
> 
> It has happend a lot of times on hills or even flat ground that something as small as a mounter seeder, or hay tedder has rolled tractors of even 100hp when the driver was not being careful.


the roll over bar is a great invention, not only for safety, but you can add a shadey spot to any part of the field.


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

jacksun65 said:


> There is a top link for a reason.


Yes, it's there to adjust impliment tilt angle, and to sense pull force when plowing, adjusting till depth accordingly.

It was not ever there to prevent bushhogs from flipping up, and generally the parts are not strong enough to hold a bushhog or tractor when flipped.


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

Well, If he had been mowing there for years, Why didnt he know the stump was there?


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## VERN in IL (Nov 30, 2008)

greengrow said:


> I would have a roll over bar added to any tractor to be safer.
> 
> Instead of replacing the top toplink with a chain you can shorten the toplink and put in a couple of lenghts of steel so that there is flex in the link.
> 
> It has happend a lot of times on hills or even flat ground that something as small as a mounter seeder, or hay tedder has rolled tractors of even 100hp when the driver was not being careful.


I would never mow a hill without a roll bar!:nono: ..and they do make umbrellas for roll-barless tractors such as the John Deere 4020. You can have shade everywhere.


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