# Choices for tractor tire fill material



## Awnry Abe (Mar 21, 2012)

I had a front-end-loader question thread in which several of you rightly scorned me for not getting permanent ballast for my utility tractor. I promise, it has been on my "get 'er done" list. I suppose now would be a fine to do "get 'er done." I was once told that it should be strictly done be a tire place, but I have since discovered that there isn't much to it. There are some pitfalls to avoid. 

So it's really down what material to add? I've heard of the following:

1) Straight Water
2) Calcium Chloride
3) Enviro/Animal-Friendly Anti-Freeze + Water
4) Non-Enviro/Animal-Friendly Anti Freeze + Water
5) Beet Juice/RimGuard
6) Windshield wiper fluid
7) Something foamy. Can't remember what it is called.

Some pertinent facts particular to me: 
A) I live in Missouri.
B) The tires are tubeless. 
C) Kubota painted rims. 

#1 is a non-starter. So is #4. My inclination is towards anit-freeze+water because of availability and the DIY-ness of it, but I need to figure out the water/anti-freeze ratio for this zipcode. I liked the sound of #5 until I found out how much it costs--although I haven't priced out everything else, yet.

Comments? Is there a #8? Any guidance on how what the anti-freeze/water ratio should be for mid-Missouri?


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## bja105 (Aug 25, 2009)

I have experience with Calcium, wiper fluid, and antifreeze.

The calcium and antifreeze were in when I bought the tractors, and I did the wiper fluid myself.

My big tractor has 15.5x38 tires filled with Calcium Chloride in tubes. I just had the tire truck to the farm to replace a tube. $476. I can't handle that big of a tire myself, especially with 700 lbs of ballast in it. He had to pump out the ballast, then replace the tube, then refill.

The one I did with wiper fluid was a very small garden tractor with tubes. I took out the valve cores. I removed the handle from a pump sprayer and hose clamped the hose over the valve stem. I pumped the fluid for a while, then opened the sprayer to let the air push back out. You are supposed to leave some air for cushioning. If you fill with the valve stem at 12:00 and fill to the valve, you will be good.

Google ballast charts, it will tell you how much per your tire size. My tractor's operator manual also has the chart.

I have read that with beet juice or calcium, tubeless is better, because you can plug leaks just like an air filled tire.

Calcium rusts, but my rims have lasted almost 30 years with the tubes.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Negative on the calcium chloride. Whatever you use, make sure it won't corrode the rims. I went with solid foam for the weight. The rims will never rust or leak. That was 14 years ago. I have no idea what it would cost now. It does make the tires absolutely flat proof which is a real bonus. 

I've used the tractor for demo work. Misc. hidden hardware, nails sticking up in boards, etc. is not a worry.


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## DaleK (Sep 23, 2004)

I wouldn't use anything tubeless everything I have ballasted is calcium chloride in tubes. Tube them or use iron wheel weights or something on the three point or a rear rack.


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

That stuff is high if you have it put in. I just had 2 walk behind tractor tires filled. 8 1/4gal and one tube, $95.00


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## rambler (Jan 20, 2004)

Only thing I would use is calcium chloride.

My 1977 tractor has had CC in all 4 corners since it was new, no inner tubes in rear tires, and it is just fine. CC needs oxygen to make it rust anything, flush off any leaks and a tractor you use you maintain it, everything is fine.

If it is ashow tractor, then I would use cast weight for the little bit of weight such a machine would need.

Antifreeze is too light, it weighs perhaps 7lbs per gallon, while CC weighs close to 11 lbs per gallon.

The foam filled makes a very harsh ride.

I'm glad you eliminated the 2 that you did.

My coop that does my tire repairs would be upset if I contaminated their CC supply with some antifreeze/wiper junk. Perhaps it is a southern/ northern thing because this comes up so often, but seems like such a poor choice for weight and durability.

A #8 would be cast iron weights.

Paul


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## DaleK (Sep 23, 2004)

Something else to consider if you aren't adjusting the rims would be to lay them flat and fill the rim with concrete, put plastic between it and the rim so it doesn't stick and run some long bolts through so you can take them off. Wouldn't suggest it on something with a lot of field use but I've seen it work for a yard/ utility tractor


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## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

We've always run CC in our tires but we always have tubes.
If all you really need weight for is when slinging bales I'd look at just hanging a back blade or mower off the three point.
If traction isn't an issue during regular operation there is no reason to add ballast to your wheels.


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## arabian knight (Dec 19, 2005)

I Second the CC choice.


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## GunMonkeyIntl (May 13, 2013)

Are you positive that your tires aren't filled? Most dealers that are worth a darn and understand how their customers use their products will offer of just go ahead and fill the tires when they package in the loader. Getting rim guard (the right stuff) done predelivery is cheap. 

Double check before your get too spun up. Park with the valve stem on one of your rear wheels down and poke the valve. I wouldn't be surprised I you see liquid come out. 

I won't try to talk you out of loadin your wheels if they're not already, but it is not as efficient as the same amount of weight hanging off your 3PH. The further behind your rear axle you can get the weight, the more leverage it exerts and the more weight it will take off your front axle. 

You can find some DIY plans for a 55 gallon drum with 3PH pins welded on and filled with concrete. Cheap, effective, and flexible. When you need it, you back up to it and pin it on your 3PH. When you don't need it, you park it and unhook it.


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## highlands (Jul 18, 2004)

Darren said:


> Negative on the calcium chloride. Whatever you use, make sure it won't corrode the rims. I went with solid foam for the weight. The rims will never rust or leak. That was 14 years ago. I have no idea what it would cost now. It does make the tires absolutely flat proof which is a real bonus. I've used the tractor for demo work. Misc. hidden hardware, nails sticking up in boards, etc. is not a worry.


Any more info on the foam? Brand? Sources? Is this polyurethane foam? DIY?

We get a lot of flats. Sharp land.


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## bja105 (Aug 25, 2009)

I built a 1000 lb counter weight to go with my loaded tires, 700 lbs in each rear. The counter weight was a big help.

What kind of tractor are we talking about?


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## Awnry Abe (Mar 21, 2012)

Kubota L5740 w/o cab. Tires are definitely not filled. It is a bouncy little thing. I like the ballast of a large bale, but not the sheer size of it. I have been conjuring up a plan for 3pt ballast box. But filled tires definitely sound like the way to go, regardless.


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## idigbeets (Sep 3, 2011)

We use an enviro friendly antifreeze water at 50/50 mix. CC ruins rims, I've seen a rear wheel come off a 130hp tractor due to cracked rim where the CC ate it out. I know it has been used for a long time.. if you're not against having to repair a rim once or twice in 30 years, then go for it.


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## Awnry Abe (Mar 21, 2012)

idigbeets said:


> We use an enviro friendly antifreeze water at 50/50 mix. CC ruins rims, I've seen a rear wheel come off a 130hp tractor due to cracked rim where the CC ate it out. I know it has been used for a long time.. if you're not against having to repair a rim once or twice in 30 years, then go for it.


No beet juice? 

PA should be as cold or colder than down here. Any issues with the ratio?

I'm still waffling on the CC vs. anti freeze. I like the extra weight, but still have a small, nagging concern about damage to the rim.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

highlands said:


> Any more info on the foam? Brand? Sources? Is this polyurethane foam? DIY?
> 
> We get a lot of flats. Sharp land.


It's the same foam used in scrap yard loaders. The dealer made all the arrangements. That was part of the tractor spec. They took the tires to a shop in Philadelphia. I believe they used something like Tyrfil-HD. The tractor does run a bit rough on pavement because the tires have no give. I don't tun it on pavement much so it doesn't matter to me.

I don't think it's a do it yourself job. there's no valve core in the tires and there was a screw in one point of the tire to allow air to escape. Anyone who handles equipment tires probably has the setup. It adds quite a bit of weight. Each rear tire weighs about 800 lbs. for a smallish tractor tire. Front tires are about 100 lbs. A large tractor tire may push 2,000 lbs or more when filled.

http://www.pathwaypolymers.com/www/docs/110


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## highlands (Jul 18, 2004)

I'm interested in the performance and your terrain. I tried to order this with our second tractor but the dealer strongly discouraged me.

We are on dirt road, pasture, snow and ice.
We have a lot of rocks, many sharp, in our fields, as well as pokey sticks.
I've gotten flats from the pokey sticks. The rocks cut the front wheels that don't have chains.
I run with the logging chains on the back tires year round - they protect the tires to a degree from sharp rocks.
I get about two flat tires a year on the back and about four on the front. Very annoying and a waste of time.
I drive slowly. Rarely out of first gear. On our rough, steep terrain that's a good place to stay.
Thus I'm interested in the foam fill to eliminate the flats.
I have one tire that I'm about to have to replace at a cost of around $1,000 and am wondering if filling it with foam would be cheaper and a better idea. All that is wrong with it is that it has a sizable hole that lets sticks in to puncture the tubes I've been using for the last four years. Looks to me like if it were filled with foam I might get another decade out of that tire.

The dealer said it will remove the spring from the tire, make the the ride rough. Based on what you just said he might be thinking of when driving fast on roads. I don't have pavement and I don't drive fast so I wonder if the foam might be fine for my situation.

Can you tell me more about your usage, terrain and thoughts?

I'll check out that web site, thanks.

-Walter


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## rambler (Jan 20, 2004)

On your steep ground, my concern would be the foam filled tires don't give as much. I suspect you get better traction, grip, holding, with a tire on the lower side of the inflation guide? It will squat down and put more bars on the dirt?

A foam filled tire would not squat or conform to the surface as well, and might be a bit more slippery.

I do not know the right answer for you, but would ponder on this part of it, if it may help or hurt you. In your softer dirt would not be a problem, but if you are on rocky ground with no dirt to grip into, the harder tire will want to slide more? So it depends what surfaces you are mostly on. The most scariest ride I've ever had with a tractor was on grass, with dew on the ground. Tractor slid all the way down the hill like I was on skis, empty trailer pushing me down. A harder tire would slide more on hard surface or wet grass.

The extra weight of the foam might outweigh the stiffer tread and you actually may gain overall, but something to think about. I presume you do not have your tires filled with anything but air, with that many punctures.

Paul


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Rambler is correct in that you do lose the traction gained by a normal fluid filled tire's ability to squat. A foam filled will not do that. They'll probably dig a rut better than a fluid filled tire too. I run the tractor on steep terrain. The heavier tires lower the center of gravity. Even with the tires filled, the loader will still pick up the back of the tractor with a log winch on the 3pt if you get into something too heavy.

I haven't seen any additional skidding or slippage going downhill. I helped a friend demo six railroad hopper cars with the tractor. One of the tires ended up with a slice working in the scrap. It made no difference whatsoever.


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## highlands (Jul 18, 2004)

Hmm... Interesting point on the low fill issue gripping better. .... For the rear tires the tread is not actually on the ground but rather it is the chain that is getting the grip. We use the chains year round. Pictures of the types of chains we use are here:

http://SugarMtnFarm.com/tractor-tire-chain-wear/
http://sugarmtnfarm.com/peanut-butter-pallet-fork-lift/
http://SugarMtnFarm.com/cold-of-outer-space/

In the past we had the Rimgard in the tires and liked that but we lost the fluid on one tractor when when the tires both went catastrophically flat in a two week span. Since then we've been using tubes so we can keep using the outer tire but we have no fill now. The backhoe on the back end helps. The other tractor has filled tires and has not had a flat, yet, knock on rock.

I sympathize with your grass ride. At just the right temperature ice is hard enough to stop even our tire chains from digging in. I once skated 200' down a road on the chains. It was the fastest I've ever moved in the tractor by far! I've avoided that experience successfully since then since I now know to look out for it. The things we survive... What doesn't kill us, well, it didn't kill us! 

I called the TyrFil place but the guy I need to talk with was out until Monday. If I go with that I'll pass along my experience to those here on the thread. I have a big nasty flat right now. Might be the time to do it.

-Walter


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## idigbeets (Sep 3, 2011)

Awnry Abe said:


> No beet juice?
> 
> PA should be as cold or colder than down here. Any issues with the ratio?
> 
> I'm still waffling on the CC vs. anti freeze. I like the extra weight, but still have a small, nagging concern about damage to the rim.



Nope so far so good... we use old antifreeze from when we do changes on all the equipment, trucks etc. Works fine, even in subzero temps.

I'd also like to point out that if you're replacing tires, I'd go for a radial tire (more $$) over a biased tire. We have sets of each on similar 130hp tractors, and get much better wear, grip (especially snow/ice, haven't put chains on in years on the radial) on the radial tires than the bias.

Pricing here is about $1200 for each rear tire... give or take depending on size. Fluid filled of course.


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## Awnry Abe (Mar 21, 2012)

Walter,

Last year we cleared an old fence line that was full of honey locusts. Both my front tires ended up like pin cusions and flat as a pancake afterward. I started to use those tar plugs, but it was pointless. I thought I was going to have to replace them. But I bought some of the green slime stuff at Wal-Mart, and haven't had a flat since. I ended up doing the same on my ATV and 4X4 mule. They were perpetually parked next to the air compressor. Now the air compressor is as lonely as the Maytag repairman. 

I haven't had the same bum luck on the back tires as you, so I can't offer any advice there.


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## rambler (Jan 20, 2004)

idigbeets said:


> Nope so far so good... we use old antifreeze from when we do changes on all the equipment, trucks etc. Works fine, even in subzero temps.


Not trying to be preachy, but just pointing out, regular antifreeze is a toxic thing that EPA wants you to report spills if an entire tire leaks out. It is dangerous to critters and to groundwater.

We all do stuff, I understand, but if one is concerned about keeping their land pure, this would not be a good idea.

Calcium chloride is a salt and will kill plants it leaks onto, but it is not a toxic substance and is much safer for critters/ environment/ wells.

Paul


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## idigbeets (Sep 3, 2011)

To each his own I guess, I've seen the dangers of CC and rims... 

The tire place does offer something else that is enviro friendly, not sure what it is, but it was expensive to put into the tires, and we have a lot of old antifreeze around... so... 

No spills yet in 30 years... AFAIK.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Somehow I don't think a little antifreeze is going to hurt anything as long as it isn't puddled where some thing can drink it.

There's a balance to life. Here's an example of insanity because some kid urinated into a reservoir. Now they're going to drain it. What do think birds have been doing when they fly over?

http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2014/04/17/water-reservoir-urination/7814581/


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## arabian knight (Dec 19, 2005)

Darren said:


> Somehow I don't think a little antifreeze is going to hurt anything as long as it isn't puddled where some thing can drink it.
> 
> There's a balance to life. Here's an example of insanity because some kid urinated into a reservoir. Now they're going to drain it. What do think birds have been doing when they fly over?
> 
> http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2014/04/17/water-reservoir-urination/7814581/


Right, just like one CFL light bulb that gets broken is not a national emergency to call in a Hazmat team, and some antifreeze gets spilled, runs over, is not a case for anyone to go get the epa involved either. LOL


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## highlands (Jul 18, 2004)

Awnry Abe said:


> Walter,
> Last year we cleared an old fence line that was full of honey locusts. Both my front tires ended up like pin cusions and flat as a pancake afterward. I started to use those tar plugs, but it was pointless. I thought I was going to have to replace them. But I bought some of the green slime stuff at Wal-Mart, and haven't had a flat since. I ended up doing the same on my ATV and 4X4 mule. They were perpetually parked next to the air compressor. Now the air compressor is as lonely as the Maytag repairman.
> I haven't had the same bum luck on the back tires as you, so I can't offer any advice there.


We've been using the green slime too. It does work as a temporary patch, slows the leaks down enough to get back to the compressor and then we park near it incase they keep leaking. At that point the leaks are very slow.

I've got one particular hole on one of the rear tires that is being my major problem. It started as a nail hole years ago. I patched it with a plug. It has gradually widened. Since it's being bad right now that seemed like the time to try foam. But contacting dealers I'm looking at $2K to foam each tractor and I'm not ready to spend that much right now. The TyrFil LD sounds interesting since it is a low density foam. There is a lot of wear left on that tire - it just has this hole big enough to reach a pinky finger in.

Now that things are warming up I may just take the tire off and build up a thick patch inside the tire, polyurea the hole and crack around it and then put a tube back in. I've got a tube. I've got polyurea on hand. I don't have the cash for the foam which is what I would like to do. We'll see how the build up patch works. If it keeps it going for another year maybe I'll have the cash next year for foam. Sometimes things are like that. I'll report how the build up works after a bit of use.


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## troyh (May 14, 2014)

I have beet juice in my tractor tires. That is what everyone recommends around here and that is also what all the dealerships offer to fill your tires with when you purchase a tractor. I'm not sure if it's the heaviest filler but it seems to be an all around good filler. I also recommend putting an attachment or ballast (weight) box or homemade version of a ballast box on your 3 point hitch when doing loader work. I know my loaded tires and having weight on the hitch have saved me from rolling/tipping over.


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## Allen W (Aug 2, 2008)

highlands said:


> Now that things are warming up I may just take the tire off and build up a thick patch inside the tire, polyurea the hole and crack around it and then put a tube back in. I've got a tube. I've got polyurea on hand. I don't have the cash for the foam which is what I would like to do. We'll see how the build up patch works. If it keeps it going for another year maybe I'll have the cash next year for foam. Sometimes things are like that. I'll report how the build up works after a bit of use.


 
You need a boot. http://www.gemplers.com/product/5L/9-x-11-3-4-6-ply-Oval-Boot


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Awnry Abe

here is my solution for ballast

use a thick wall plastic 55 gallon drum and cut the top of the drum off. Buy one the $20 plus 3 point hitch drawbars . Measure the height of the 3 point lift arms when they are at the maximum up position. Subtract 6 to 8 inches from that and use that location to mark 2 hole locations up from the bottom of the barrel and mark for drilling the 2 holes centered in the barrel opposite each other the same diameter of the drawbar small ends. Take this to a concrete plant and ask them to fill to the weight you want. The concrete will cover the drawbar and hold it in place once cured. The counter weight will pivot on the lift arm balls and will not need a top link. When the weight is not needed you can leave it off the tractor. Best of both worlds, cheap too. :happy:


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## Silvercreek Farmer (Oct 13, 2005)

I used RV antifreeze diluted 50/50 with water to come close to our typical lows in NC. Ended up costing about the same as WW fluid and is 100 percent non-toxic. I think it has some corrosion preventers in it too. If I had extra money to spend I would probably go with Rim Guard.


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## highlands (Jul 18, 2004)

After looking at the foam filled tires extensively I wasn't able to bite the bullet on the cost. I would love the foam fill but it looked like it was going to cost well over $1,000 per wheel and they said to only do it on new tires - mine are over 10 years old. So I patched the tire again and will keep it going. We only drive at slow speeds so the imbalance of the patch is not such a problem. This time I am testing putting polyurea on the exterior and inside the hole. See:

http://SugarMtnFarm.com/2014/05/22/polyurea-tractor-tire-repair/

I think this may seal the hole both from the interior and the exterior keeping stones and sticks out so the tube doesn't get punctured again. So far it is holding up well.


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## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

after need to replace the rims on one of my tractors, do to CC, I took it out, any one want a few 30 gallon drums of it. it was in tubes, but a tube would start to leak, and the tire would act like a tubeless and the CC would start to work on the rims and rotted them out, 

I would use some thing non corrosive, if I was doing it again, currently I have no liquid in the tires,


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## rambler (Jan 20, 2004)

I'd get it of I were near you.

I've got 3 tractors with CC, one is on all four corners. One is tubeless tires. One tractor is from the mid 1950s, the bigger one is from 1970s, always had fluid. You can see a little surface rust, but if you take care of it, over 40 or 60 years you'll have that anyhow. Up here the use a lot of salt and liquid stuff - often CC actually - sprayed on the roads in winter, so if I do any road driving in winter for snow blowing someone, my rims will rust from the outside in from that salt spray. Aweful stuff up here. But anyhow, the CC for weight is the best fit for the need.

Up here in MN its too cold to fool around with weak antifreeze mixes with livestock and snow machinery has to run if it is 20 below or not....

Paul


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## am1too (Dec 30, 2009)

Darren said:


> Somehow I don't think a little antifreeze is going to hurt anything as long as it isn't puddled where some thing can drink it.
> 
> There's a balance to life. Here's an example of insanity because some kid urinated into a reservoir. Now they're going to drain it. What do think birds have been doing when they fly over?
> 
> http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2014/04/17/water-reservoir-urination/7814581/


http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2014/04/17/water-reservoir-urination/7814581/[/QUOTE Where do fish take a dump? Do they allow power boats?


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## FiveHensFarm (Apr 11, 2016)

How is the polyurea holding up? Also, what is the name/brand of the product you used?

Thanks!



highlands said:


> We've been using the green slime too. It does work as a temporary patch, slows the leaks down enough to get back to the compressor and then we park near it incase they keep leaking. At that point the leaks are very slow.
> 
> I've got one particular hole on one of the rear tires that is being my major problem. It started as a nail hole years ago. I patched it with a plug. It has gradually widened. Since it's being bad right now that seemed like the time to try foam. But contacting dealers I'm looking at $2K to foam each tractor and I'm not ready to spend that much right now. The TyrFil LD sounds interesting since it is a low density foam. There is a lot of wear left on that tire - it just has this hole big enough to reach a pinky finger in.
> 
> Now that things are warming up I may just take the tire off and build up a thick patch inside the tire, polyurea the hole and crack around it and then put a tube back in. I've got a tube. I've got polyurea on hand. I don't have the cash for the foam which is what I would like to do. We'll see how the build up patch works. If it keeps it going for another year maybe I'll have the cash next year for foam. Sometimes things are like that. I'll report how the build up works after a bit of use.


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## brosil (Dec 15, 2003)

I talked to a guy yesterday who said that tractor pullers in our area are using cherry juice. I suppose it's the same as beet juice in not freezing and not corroding.


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## highlands (Jul 18, 2004)

FiveHensFarm said:


> How is that polyurea working as a tractor tire patch? If it's working what brand is it, and is it sold as "Polyurea" or by some other name? Thanks!


It is holding up well after about two years. Dynasolve.com was the source of the polyurea. Details here:

http://sugarmtnfarm.com/2014/05/22/polyurea-tractor-tire-repair/

That saved a ~$800 to $1,000 tire letting it last years longer.

-Walter


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