# Help - worsted vs woolen?



## PKBoo (Apr 10, 2008)

Hi everyone - I've been busily spinning and practicing, and haven't been here much (bittersweet :shrug: which is better???) although I do try to read all the posts...

I've been reading The Intentional Spinner and I THINK I finally understand the difference between worsted and woolen techniques: 


Worsted is combed wool that you basically use the inchworm technique - the spin does not go up into the drafted fluff of wool...


Woolen is carded rolags using the long draw - the spin "rides" up into the drafted fluff...

Is this right? AGH - like WIHH said, there's soooooo much to learn! I think that worsted yarn is a shinier yarn that is not as warm as a woolen yarn. 

So now my question(s) haha - IF and only IF all of the above is correct :teehee:
How do you know when to spin worsted and when to spin woolen? And for which projects? Do you spin woolen if you want a really warm hat or mittens? But worsted yarn wears better... And what about the roving you buy commercially - which method do you use with that? I have some commercial BFL roving that just won't let me long draw, so I think I'm doing a combination of worsted/woolen. But I carded some raw BFL/Mohair and I can long draw to my heart's content with that. But the two spun yarns don't really look all that different to me when I'm done 

And the whole crimp/inch thing is REALLY getting me confused! According to The Intentional Spinner, the more crimped fleece should be spun woolen...

We have 3 sheep - two are Shetland/BFL and one if BFL/Border Leicester. My goal is to be able to spin the way that their fleece should be spun (if that makes any sense?) I guess I want to BE an intentional spinner, and right now I'm just flying by the seat of my pants haha!

Sorry this is so long and rambling - I'm definitely feeling a little befuddled right now. The whole spinning thing has "clicked" and I can at least DO both techniques now  If anyone can point me to another source for info, that would be great too! I've learned so much from all of you - THANKS!!! :bow:
I can't wait to be part of the KAL and swaps!


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

Arrrgggg, technical spinning :bash: I've taken all the classes and workshops, and read all the books. I just can't be a technical spinner it takes all the fun and pleasure out of it for me. But here is what I know.

Worsted spun yarn is when all the fibers are aligned with each other. * ALL* fibers are going in the same direction and *ALL* fibers are perfectly lined up. This produces a very smooth and strong hard wearing yarn. Good for socks and lots of other things.

Woolen spun yarn (what I generally spin) is a fluffy, light, and airy yarn. Fibers are going whatever way they happen to be going. This produces a warm soft yarn (considered warmer due to the air trapped in the fibers) that doesn't wear as well as some others. Good for whatever you want it for.

Personally I hate spinning with sliver or top, I find it very difficult to spin with. That's my 2 cents worth.


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## kyweaver (Nov 30, 2009)

The wool will tell you how it needs to be spun. If you have a short fuzzy wool that has been carded, you can't make worsted yarn out of it, even if you inch-worm. Long wools that are, like Marchwind said, still aligned, having been combed or flicked, will spin up as worsted. If you try to long-draw them, it just won't go well. 
Being a weaver, I tend to prefer worsted yarns for their durability as warp. However, I sometimes get ahold of a fleece that just has to be carded and spun woolen. I have one now, a true-black alpaca, is too short and slippery to spin worsted. So I will card it all up and spin woolen. Since I spin pretty fine, it should still be smooth enough to weave with.


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