# Hot Water Heater w/ slow overflow leak?



## greenSearcher (Mar 23, 2007)

I suspect this is a simple question, so I hope it is a simple fix. Lately our 4 yo hot water heater is draining water into the catch pain, enough that it is slowly draining out the drain. I have the bottom pan of a 5 gallon chicken feeder, about a quart or two at most, catching the water rather than it running out through the garage. It takes 2-3 days to need emptying. It is an electric heater. What should I be looking for or at to resolve the problem. 

I also expect that it is time to clean out the sediment, but I am uncertain on how to do that, though logically is should be rather straight forward. We are starting to see hard water deposits on the shower heads, so that's why I think it may be time.

I hope to avoid a huge plumber's bill if possible.

Thanks, Julie


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

Where is the water coming from? The valve near the bottom of the tank? The pressure relief valve? Or some where under the tank?


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## Nimrod (Jun 8, 2010)

Like CF said, find out where it's leaking. I had a similar vintage water heater corrode where the inlet and outlet pipes screwed in the top. Had to replace the heater. Put in dielectric couplings to stop the galvanic action. 

They don't build them like they used to. The guys who pick up scrap to sell wouldn't take it. I guess there was not enough metal in it to make it worthwhile.


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## gusty60 (Jan 18, 2010)

Check the element. Sometimes the element will go bad and leak out the terminal screw. Fixed two yesterday for the same problem.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

If a heater element shorts to ground it is possible for the heater to over heat the water. The valve near the top on the tank is for safety and if that is where it is leaking you need to verify that the water is not exceptionally hot. If the water is too hot you need to turn the power off until the repair is made.


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## greenSearcher (Mar 23, 2007)

It appears to be draining out the pipe that is connected to the release valve on the side of the take, about 3/4 of the way from the bottom. The hot water isn't too hot to use, and the tank recovers normally when used. It is hot here, the garage is 120 degrees most afternoons, when the sun hits the door and turns it into an oven. Previous summers there was just a film of water in the catch pan, enough to collect dust and bugs. It is an electric heater and the intake and outlets are on the top which is dry.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> the pipe that is *connected to the release valve*


I was told the building codes require that pipe to be routed OUTSIDE the house.

I'd turn it all off and replace the valve, and route the pipe so if it DOES overheat it will send the water/steam out of the house


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## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

never seen one of those go outside. 
routing down towards the floor so it doesn't spray all over stuff is all that has ever been required in any installation I've done.


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## Snowfan (Nov 6, 2011)

Not that big a project. Disconnect the power by pulling the fuses (use a fuse puller if you have one) or turn off the circuit breaker. Now, while the water cools a bit, run down to your local hardware store and get a T&P (temperature & pressure) relief valve. Probably a good idea to see the tag on the old valve for specs if you think it's the original valve. Open the drain at the bottom of the tank after you connect a garden hose to it so that it drains outside. Remove the piece of pipe that comes out the bottom of the old valve and save it. Wrap the new threads with teflon tape or spread some thread compound (pipe dope) on the threads. Unscrew the old valve, screw in the new one and close the bottom drain. Reconnect the piece of pipe to the discharge side of the relief valve. Leave the little lever on the mew valve open to let the air out of the tank. When you start getting water out of the valve, close it. VERY IMPORTANT. Run a faucet or two in the house until you get ALL the air out of the system. The electric heating elements HAVE to be submerged in water at all times.
Once this is done, give it power again. Watch for leaks as you drink a cup of coffee. If no leaks, you're done. If you do have a leak, let us know and we'll deal with it.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> never seen one of those go outside


 I never have either, but a plumber friend of mine told me they are SUPPOSED to.
Most people are too lazy to do it, but it does make sense


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Ours is routed outside, but I plumbed it myself. I don't believe it is required here. We used to plumb student dorms years ago and ran them straight down into the drip pan. Code may have changed in that time though.


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

Ours is routed to a (basement) floor drain - actually within a few inches of the floor drain.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Sometimes you can just turn the water heater breaker off, let the tank cool some and exercise the valve by opening and closing a few times, letting water escape and it will clean the seat. To clean the tank, turn off the breaker, turn off the water to the tank. Hook up a hose to the drain valve and drain the tank. Turn the water back on and let run for 5 minutes. Run some water in the bathtub to get all the air out of the tank, exercise the valve. If it leaks worse the seat is bad....James


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## greg_n_ga (May 4, 2012)

Bearfootfarm said:


> I never have either, but a plumber friend of mine told me they are SUPPOSED to.
> Most people are too lazy to do it, but it does make sense


I would want to know if mine blew. If it is under the floor, hearin may be the only way you might know for a while. Too much water pressure will weakin the spring in the pop-off causein' a leak along with high temps.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

greenSearcher

I suggest reading this thoroughly. 

Temperature Pressure Relief Valves on Water Heaters: test, inspect, replace, repair guide


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## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

does it drip constant?

or does the pan just fill at odd times?

do you have a check valve on the water system,

what I am trying to say is if there is a pressure reducing valve or a check valve you have now where for water to expand, and when water is heated it expands, 
on closed systems, and water expands it has to go some where, and most of the time it will result in the water being forced out of the T&P valve,

you can get a pressure gage that reads the max pressure at a box store or off the net, water pressure test gauge - Google Search

put the Gauge on a hydrant (normally) and leave on all night and see if it raising above normal pressure,

If you get a small surge our of a faucet when first turned on your probably building pressure,

the volume that is built up is very small, but the pressure is above the rating of the T&P valve, thus the leaks,

if that is the problem, the cure for it is an expansion tank, put in the system some where, (normally there put by the hot water heater, but nearly any where past the check valve will work,


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## unioncreek (Jun 18, 2002)

If it's coming out of the relief valve, just replace it. We had one that about every year we had to replace the valve. Finally just replaced the water heater. Heard later that they will do that when they get older.

Bob


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> I would want to know if mine blew


I'd want to know if mine did too, but I don't want to fill a* room* with water to find out 

You'd know because you wouldn't have any HOT water


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## gusty60 (Jan 18, 2010)

If your system is a closed system, (check valve some where in the supply line) it may be over pressurizing when the water heater fires. Easy to check with a gauge. You may need an expansion tank. If you have one already, it may be shot.


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## frankva (May 21, 2009)

FWIW- I had an expansion tank that filled with water. If anyone has one, go rap on it with your knuckles.


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## greenSearcher (Mar 23, 2007)

It looks like the temperature in the garage has an impact on the leak, the last week or so has been cool, temps in the 70s during the days (norm this time of year is 90+) and the catch pan I have under the drain pipe's mouth is now dry, but has a heavy white powder coating on it. Makes me think when the ambient air temps are high, the water expands, thus overflows. I am going to watch it, to see if the leak really has stopped or if it resumes with the next hot spell. I also think that the white powder residue tells me the thank should be drained to remove hard water deposits. 

I am learning a lot from everyone's comments. The articles give me courage to try and fix it. I am hesitant, thinking if I kill the hot water heater I will then have to pay anyhow and it takes a couple days to get someone out here.


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## chickenslayer (Apr 20, 2010)

Bearfootfarm said:


> I was told the building codes require that pipe to be routed OUTSIDE the house.
> 
> I'd turn it all off and replace the valve, and route the pipe so if it DOES overheat it will send the water/steam out of the house


I don't know if it is required or not but when I re-did the water system in my house I routed the overflow pipe outside, I'd rather have steam and water spewing outside if there ever was a problem.


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