# Building Pole Barn



## equinecpa (Mar 21, 2011)

I have a question-I'm in the midst of putting up a lean-to style sheep shed. It's 16x24'. We're just putting up the rafters tomorrow (2x6's). I plan on using tin to close in the roof. I have a couple of roofing questions:

1) The tin is it a pain to cut? I was wondering if it is worthwhile to order the lengths precut?

2) I don't like condensation dripping down my back from a tin roof-would I be better off putting plywood over the rafters and screwing the tin to that or alternatively I could put strapping on the trusses screw the tin to that, and then put Styrofoam insulation up under the tin between the rafters? Or I could get insulation that goes on top of the rafters that the tin screws to? Any experience on insulating a tin roof here?


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## yukon cornelius (Aug 9, 2012)

I can help a bit... metal isn't terrible to cut but precut lengths are much easier and worth it. it can be cut with snips but usually leaves jagged edges to cut you. a skilsaw can cut it with a blade turned backwards but still leaves a rough edge and small hot pieces fly out all over and it is LOUD!! put down a vapor barrier to stop dripping but it needs an air gap between metal and decking. I built a pole barn last year and put up foam insulation from the inside. it seems to work. before I insulated it dripped like rain. now dry all the time. hope this helps.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Don't know where you are but here we put plywood on the rafters and put down heavy tar paper/roofing felt, then the roofing. It has the ribs that act as tunnels to let the condensation out. No need to insulate unless you insulate the building. You pay by the sq ft so cut to length, you only pay for what you get. Usually cheaper to get the roofing straight from the roller/manufacturer unless you find on sale/reduced price. It is easy to cut with a skill saw with blade turned backwards but as said very noisy and wear good eye protection as there is a lot of hot sparks. Make sure you get the right length screws so you don't have the sharp ends sticking through....James


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

16' 2"x6" rafters? How steep is the roof? How much snow do you get? 2"x6"s may not be strong enough IF the snow does not slide off....James


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

They make a foil faced Styrofoam sheet that works between the stringers and the tin. Can't walk on it, so makes it harder to fasten the tin. Space the stringers 2 foot apart.


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## equinecpa (Mar 21, 2011)

yukon cornelius said:


> I can help a bit... metal isn't terrible to cut but precut lengths are much easier and worth it. it can be cut with snips but usually leaves jagged edges to cut you. a skilsaw can cut it with a blade turned backwards but still leaves a rough edge and small hot pieces fly out all over and it is LOUD!! put down a vapor barrier to stop dripping but it needs an air gap between metal and decking. I built a pole barn last year and put up foam insulation from the inside. it seems to work. before I insulated it dripped like rain. now dry all the time. hope this helps.


That is very helpful-I'll look into the precut lengths. What did you use for the vapor barrier? Did you use plywood decking or just strapping? I'm putting sheep and poultry inside this barn so I do want it well ventilated. The warmth is for me not them  



jwal10 said:


> 16' 2"x6" rafters? How steep is the roof? How much snow do you get? 2"x6"s may not be strong enough IF the snow does not slide off....James


We are in CO with quite a bit of snow BUT we're only going 8' between posts.



haypoint said:


> They make a foil faced Styrofoam sheet that works between the stringers and the tin. Can't walk on it, so makes it harder to fasten the tin. Space the stringers 2 foot apart.


That's the kind of styrofoam I was thinking of-have you used it?


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## yukon cornelius (Aug 9, 2012)

I used 2x4s on edge between 9 foot spaced trusses. felt paper works well for vapor barrier. as for insulation I used 2 inch poly foam on the roof(cheapest white foam) nailed through with plastic cap nails. 1 inch on the walls. not highly efficient but was very cheap and it is easy to heat my 36x36 shop with a barrel stove. we are in Missouri so it does get cold here. no problems in the last year since building it.


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## equinecpa (Mar 21, 2011)

yukon cornelius said:


> I used 2x4s on edge between 9 foot spaced trusses. felt paper works well for vapor barrier. as for insulation I used 2 inch poly foam on the roof(cheapest white foam) nailed through with plastic cap nails. 1 inch on the walls. not highly efficient but was very cheap and it is easy to heat my 36x36 shop with a barrel stove. we are in Missouri so it does get cold here. no problems in the last year since building it.


So if I understand you have rafters, then felt overlay, then strapping (2x4) covered with steel roofing-no plywood decking? And then on the inside you put up the poly foam? If you don't mind me asking how much was the foam per sheet-I looked at Home depot site and they want like $10 a sheet...seems dear.


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