# Growing blueberries



## Oregon1986 (Apr 25, 2017)

I have been wanting to grow blueberries for a very long time. This is finally the year I'm going to plant them. Any helpful tips or advice? I'm planning on buying the legacy kind from a local nursery


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## HeavyHauler (Dec 21, 2017)

Oregon1986 said:


> I have been wanting to grow blueberries for a very long time. This is finally the year I'm going to plant them. Any helpful tips or advice? I'm planning on buying the legacy kind from a local nursery


I just started mine last year, I didn't realize they take a couple years to bear fruit. My raspberries grew fruit a couple months after I planted them.

Acidic soil is apparently needed for blueberries; my cheap prong soil tester told me my soil was 7-8? So it needed to come down, I tossed a big bag of peat moss (the big cube bags) and laid a bunch of pine boughs for mulch.

This spring, I'll make a pine needle tea (soak em in a 5gal bucket) and try that.

Our local wild blueberries grow in moss, at least where I have found them. They don't grow very large and seem to be the bog bilberry variety. Sour and tasty. 

The wild ones seem to grow well after a forest fire ravages the area. So I guess the ashes and cleared space works however.

My plants grew a couple feet high in a shaded area, going to plant some in a more sunny area this year and see how they do.

I could use tips too.


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## anniew (Dec 12, 2002)

Use some sulfur to lower the pH...
Plant two varieties for pollination.


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## HeavyHauler (Dec 21, 2017)

anniew said:


> Use some sulfur to lower the pH...
> Plant two varieties for pollination.


I bought some sulphur last year to use, but I really didn't want to add it; so I didn't. But it's in the garage should I decide to use it.

I need to pick up a proper soil tester and some other things.

And yeah, two varieties for pollination. I forgot about it. I planted bluecrop and blue gold I think.

Gonna get a few other varieties this year


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## mzgarden (Mar 16, 2012)

Following. We've tried blueberries a few times over the last few decades and never had great success. We're trying again - multiple varieties for pollination and two different varieties of honey berries are out there too. Will be trying the pine needle tea this year.


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

Oregon1986 said:


> I have been wanting to grow blueberries for a very long time. This is finally the year I'm going to plant them. Any helpful tips or advice? I'm planning on buying the legacy kind from a local nursery



Above all, blueberries(highbush, here in Michigan) require "goldilocks" conditions. Soil pH of 4 to 5--very acid, peat-like well-drained, but high water table, and good bee or insect pollination, and berry cultivars suited for your own region. That's a very tall order, to meet all those conditions.......

You're doing the right thing by getting plants from your local nursery(but I don't know what are called "legacy" plants, since nearly all bushes are propagated by stem cuttings...and maybe shipped in from Michigan...  )).

Soil pH is probably the most important thing with blueberries. You MUST test your soil at the root zone and somewhat below, first off. To get it down to the 4 to 5 pH level, you will no doubt need to amend the soil with sulfur and let it work for _several months_. If you don't do this with blueberries first thing, they will be sickly and yellow--and there's no way to get the sulfur down there after the plant is in the ground.....

Blueberries need lots of water during the berry formation periods--but if the roots are standing in water, they will suffocate. So, be prepared to irrigate unless your soil matches the goldilocks light swampy conditions we have here in this county. Mulching with peat moss and other acidic mulches will help maintain the acidity, hold weeds down, and conserve water.

Nearly all the blueberry cultivars--the popular ones--are self-fruitful, so you may or may not need cross-pollinating varieties. That's something to find out from your nursery, and buy accordingly. But for good--pie-making quantities of berries, you'll need lost of insects--and honeybees, to get that job done.

You'll also need frost protection in early springtime, too--so be prepared to wrap the bushes--or sprinkle at nighttime when the frost may form.

This article may help you as you start out. http://web.extension.illinois.edu/cfiv/homeowners/080818.html

Hope this will help.

geo


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## anniew (Dec 12, 2002)

I don't want to be disagreeable, but the pH is not needed to be down more than 5.5 Lower is okay, but higher is not. Also, when you get them planted and when it is time to fertilize, use an acidic fertilizer like that used for azaleas and other type plants that thrive in the lower pH. Those fertilizers won't then allow the pH to gradually rise.

Another thing...blueberries have a shallow root system, meaning that the moisture level in their root zone can get too low with several hot, non-rainy days. It has always been my practice based on information from my Cornell classes to water plants IF there has not been rain in the last week. So, make it a specific day of the week, and if you didn't get an inch of rain between Tuesdays (for instance), then water even if there is a storm predicted for the next day or two. Besides blueberries, I use that same idea with all my plants, so they have the best chance of being really healthy. ESpecially, perennials like blueberries, asparagus, other berries, and even fruit trees. Since they are a long time investment, they need special care to give the best return. And, of course, I also water my veggies at least once a week when there has not been an inch of rain each week.

Regarding pollination, you can usually find information on which varieties pollinate each other, so even two varieties work well planted nearby. I have a 50 row of Blue Jay and two rows of Patriot, and they always produce in volume.
And, regarding pollinators, I am sure that honey bees do some pollination (I have a commercial beekeeper within a mile from me and a hobby beekeeper closer), so they likely are doing quite a bit of pollinating, but the ones I see pollinating the most are the bumblebees. When they go to a flower to get pollen or nectar, they drill a small hole near the base of each flower they have visited. It's easy to tell how many are getting the benefit of those bumblebees.

Another thing on varieties. There are early, mid-season and late varieties. Make sure you varieties are in flower at approximately the same time which you can find out when googling blueberries. If you blueberries are for commercial sales, you'd want many of maybe two varieties, and then to cover a later picking, two varieties of late varieties. Otherwise, if you just want them for home use, a couple of each season type would suffice to get you a longer picking period. I think, however, I'd rather have two good varieties that produce well, and pick for a shorter period of time, and freeze or can those that are more than you can eat in that season. Freeze them on a cookie sheet, then when solidly frozen (like IQF (individually quick frozen) fruit you find at the grocery store), put into freezer zip lock bags, and you can remove enough for whatever (to have on cereal or make a pie) when still frozen and leave the rest for another day.

I've had my blueberries for many years, being one of the first crops that I planted when moving to this location (1992). They have never let me down, and there has always been enough for my CSA and/or to sell to others. I do not get overly concerned about either pruning or fertilizing, but do consider water as one of the most important things for any plant.

the biggest problem/pest I've dealt with is birds. Since I no longer sell, the birds can have their share, but if you need as many fruits as you can possibly grow, then I'd suggest netting. Yes, it is a pain, and sometimes birds get under and get stuck. Put the netting on before the fruit ripens, and remove at the end of the picking season. You can use the netting for several seasons if you are careful in moving it on and off. Also, there is a tape called something like "scare tape" which is about a half inch wide that is silver on one side and red on the other. You put it overtop of the blueberry plants (again before the berries turn ripe) and twist is so that it shimmers in the slightest wind. Supposedly, the birds think there is a fire and stay mostly away. It isn't 100 percent effective, but it helps and is inexpensive. I got mine from Johnny's Seeds years ago, and re-use it each season.

Sorry for the length of this post, but you asked....and good luck.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

Put fencing around the new plants or rabbits will eat them to the ground. Even if you are growing them in pots rabbits can and will jump into the pot and eat the bushes to the ground. 

Second on the azalea/rhododendron fertilizer. It has sulfur in it but is formulated to acidify the soil better than elemental sulfur. (at least that is what the package said, might have been just a sales gimmick)


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## fireweed farm (Dec 31, 2010)

As noted above they have an extremely shallow root system, do not let them dry out. 
My patch of 50 bushes (6-7 varieties) that I planted near 10 years ago, I neglected last summer and allowed to dry out mid summer.
About 1 in 5 looks to have died, some of those will likely sprout from the ground but it is a HUGE set back. Probably get 1/10 the crop this summer. 
The survivors have more dead wood than usual. 
As soon as they begin to wilt- it's too late.


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## Solar Geek (Mar 14, 2014)

anniew said:


> Another thing...blueberries have a shallow root system, meaning that the moisture level in their root zone can get too low with several hot, non-rainy days. It has always been my practice based on information from my Cornell classes to water plants IF there has not been rain in the last week. So, make it a specific day of the week, and if you didn't get an inch of rain between Tuesdays (for instance), then water even if there is a storm predicted for the next day or two. Besides blueberries, I use that same idea with all my plants, so they have the best chance of being really healthy. ESpecially, perennials like blueberries, asparagus, other berries, and even fruit trees. Since they are a long time investment, they need special care to give the best return. And, of course, I also water my veggies at least once a week when there has not been an inch of rain each week.
> 
> Regarding pollination, you can usually find information on which varieties pollinate each other, so even two varieties work well planted nearby. I have a 50 row of Blue Jay and two rows of Patriot, and they always produce in volume.
> And, regarding pollinators, I am sure that honey bees do some pollination (I have a commercial beekeeper within a mile from me and a hobby beekeeper closer), so they likely are doing quite a bit of pollinating, but the ones I see pollinating the most are the bumblebees. When they go to a flower to get pollen or nectar, they drill a small hole near the base of each flower they have visited. It's easy to tell how many are getting the benefit of those bumblebees.
> ...


I agree with all of this but I will tell you I only used "used" coffee grounds around each bush (up to 40 bushes now, some high boy, some regular but 5 different "up north" varieties for my central WI zone). Starbucks gives out 2 gallon bags for free - just ask. 

Watering so very important but we only do it once a week as the above poster said.

BIRDS! We set up 4' green metal posts (the kind from Home Depot or Lowe's) temporarily and set bird netting over the bushes. No problems and huge harvest. We did get some our 1st year but then the bunnies ate all the bushes to the ground. They re-sprouted and now, 2years later, we had a bumper crop last year. So although this is technically our 4th year, nope it is our 3rd summer.


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## fireweed farm (Dec 31, 2010)

Yes birds including chickens can be a big issue!
I have found that a daily chore of picking the ripe and nearly ripe berries will keep even bears away!
If you pick them slightly under ripe, leave them in the bowl and will generally ripen in 24 hrs.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

Solar Geek said:


> I agree with all of this but I will tell you I only used "used" coffee grounds around each bush (up to 40 bushes now, some high boy, some regular but 5 different "up north" varieties for my central WI zone). Starbucks gives out 2 gallon bags for free - just ask.


I'm glad to hear this. I get used grounds from a couple Starbucks and was wondering how well they would work.


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

Danaus29 said:


> I'm glad to hear this. I get used grounds from a couple Starbucks and was wondering how well they would work.


It appears that adding coffee grounds won't lower the pH enough but it does add organic matter to hold nutrients and water.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/composting/ingredients/coffee-grounds-gardening.htm


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

I would recommend getting a soil test done and follow the directions to lower the pH. Or you could do like me and waste 5 years of guessing. I have yet to eat a single berry from the plants that I put in the ground 5 years ago and lost 3 of the 8 plants. The acidic fertilizer did help and so did the sulfur but I'm still guessing. I was also negligent at watering even thought the lake is only 100' away.


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## FCLady (Jan 23, 2011)

Our soil is not the best for blueberries... but I wanted them anyway... hate to pay the grocery store price and don't really want to take the time to pick someone else's.

So I dug up some soil from under one of my pine trees. Used that immediately around the blueberries when I planted them. Then I found a landscaper who was grinding pine tree stumps. Jackpot! I mulched around the blueberries with pine tree stump grindings. Every year or when the weeds start to pop through too much, I add more pine needles from under the neighbor's pine trees. It has worked great for me. Watch the leaves, when they start to turn a little red the soil needs more acid. I add Holly-tone, a fertilizer for acid loving plants. (I only had to add that once for one plant.) The exception to this is in the fall when the leaves turn red and fall off. The mulch also helps retain moisture in the soil. We have them netted as soon as they start to bloom... so I don't have to share with the ground squirrels or birds or deer or chickens etc.

Two years ago I added cranberries in the same area with the same soil mix. I ate a handful of my own cranberries last year!


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## anniew (Dec 12, 2002)

FCLady, where did you get your cranberry plants. Thanks.


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## FCLady (Jan 23, 2011)

anniew:
Used to be Miller Nursery... now its StarkBros.
https://www.starkbros.com/products/berry-plants/cranberry-plants


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## light rain (Jan 14, 2013)

Cages or adequate fences or deer will prune them for you.


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## light rain (Jan 14, 2013)

And the free grounds from Starbucks... hold them from the bottom or bring another bag to put them in. My stupidity caused an embarrassing incident at our local Starbuck's entrance on a very busy summer's day... And the Starbuck's employees couldn't have been any more kind about the whole thing... Went back at Christmas time in part due to this incident and bought gcards as Christmas presents.


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

Swamp land in northern Michigan is good for blueberries. Often locals would set fire to a swamp to burn off cattails, grass and brush. The blueberries loved the loss of competing vegetation.
Acid soil ph and high water table are important.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

I was going to use the grounds along with azalea fertilizer. The grounds more for top dressing along with pine bark mulch.
Yes, I need to do a soil test. I was considering one of those prong type testers. Not in stock right now in the stores. It has to wait until spring.


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## cowboy joe (Sep 14, 2003)

Start with good stock. If you're looking for more than a few plants, may I suggest a commercial nursery such as 
http://www.kriegersnursery.com/

I'm working on a small scale fruit farm and have 20 blueberry plants (2 varieties, 10 each) that are a few years old and will be adding 10 each of 2 more varieties this year. They do take work but don't be intimidated. Ph is important but you'll be fine if you're in the ballpark. The two most important issues for new transplants are adequate water (don't drown them) but keep them moist...and deer! Summer isn't bad but the deer are relentless pruners in the winter. Fencing is your friend! A chicken wire dome over the small plants will be enough of a deterrent to send the deer looking elsewhere. Good luck!


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## ThistleMary (Mar 29, 2013)

I bought a dozen blueberry plants last year (bare root) and planted them in 3 gall containers with peat mixed with potting soil and about a 1/2 cup of "Organic Soil Acidifier." After a few weeks, I tested the ph, which was still at just under 7.0. Argh. Turns out, my water is at about 7.0. So, I started watering with a watering can that had a 1/4 cup or so of apple cider vinegar mixed in. Still, the ph registered about 7.0 for MONTHS. A year later, and four of the dozen plants died, must have been a ph too high. The others are finally registering ph of about 5.0-6.0 (that's also after top dressing plants with the organic soil acidifier, maybe 3 times over the past year.) Just saying, it's very hard to lower the ph of soil right away. It takes many months. When I finally transplant these blueberries to the ground in our AL homestead, I will be sure to use plenty of sulfur and mix it in first to any soil I am putting blueberries in. It's a frustrating process.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

Never thought about the water! Mine leaves a chalky film in the pan when you boil it. I will have to watch that closely and get those rain barrels set up! Thanks.


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## woodsy_gardener (May 27, 2007)

I tried growing blueberries for several years in my NW Arkansas garden (zone 6b) and failed. I'm a lazy gardener and just couldn't bring myself to pamper them. Then I tried Rabbiteye (southern) blueberries and--wow! they grow like weeds. Plant 'em and harvest, my kind of plant. Probably I'm at the northern limit for them. If you are in 6b or south try them! My best producers are Tifblue, Premiere, and Brighton. My favorite is Misty, the earliest, sweet, and a wonderful fragrance that perfumes the whole garden, unfortunately most of the new growth is killed off by low winter temps and so it's now much smaller than the 3 I recommend.


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

ThistleMary said:


> I bought a dozen blueberry plants last year (bare root) and planted them in 3 gall containers with peat mixed with potting soil and about a 1/2 cup of "Organic Soil Acidifier." After a few weeks, I tested the ph, which was still at just under 7.0. Argh. Turns out, my water is at about 7.0. So, I started watering with a watering can that had a 1/4 cup or so of apple cider vinegar mixed in. Still, the ph registered about 7.0 for MONTHS. A year later, and four of the dozen plants died, must have been a ph too high. The others are finally registering ph of about 5.0-6.0 (that's also after top dressing plants with the organic soil acidifier, maybe 3 times over the past year.) Just saying, it's very hard to lower the ph of soil right away. It takes many months. When I finally transplant these blueberries to the ground in our AL homestead, I will be sure to use plenty of sulfur and mix it in first to any soil I am putting blueberries in. It's a frustrating process.


This is why most of the "experts". like Stark Bros. and the extension services say straight sulfur is the best--and even that is very slow to lower the pH. They also recommend to prep your growing zone at least a year beforehand so it will be ready to go. The reasons: elemental sulfur does not dissolve in water--it just sits wherever you put it; sulfur is eaten by bacteria, and they turn the sulfur into sulfuric acid--and it does its job of releasing the hydrogen ions to do their jobs.....; the pH scale is logarthymic--which means that a pH of 5.5 will be 10 (TEN) times more acid than a reading of 6.5.

https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/Lowering_Soil_pH_with_Sulfur.pdf

http://web.extension.illinois.edu/cfiv/homeowners/080818.html

Coffee grounds, peat moss, vinegar, acetic acid, pine needles are just slightly acid--not nearly the 5.5 (top end) needed for getting blueberries off to a good start. They should be considered for maintenance, like a trickle charger on a battery during winter storage....Starbucks says its coffee grounds measure 6.8 pH only slightly acidic...that must mean the acid went into your stomach ) 

geo


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

Out of curiosity, does anyone who uses coffee grounds have one of those prong type pH testers? If you do, have you ever tested the grounds? If you haven't, would you be willing to test some grounds and let us know what you find?

I've read in several places where there was one study done and the coffee grounds had been composted. A couple other places people said they tested their own grounds and found they were more acidic than previously believed. If I had a meter or litmus paper I would check them myself.


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

My morning coffee grounds and my eggshells go into the same compost bucket, so it doesn't matter to me....

geo


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## [email protected] (Sep 16, 2009)

prepare your soil long before you intend to plant .
top dressing to lower the Ph requires the action of leaching to carry the acid down to the roots. leaching requires water from rain or a hose ..
this takes a looong time to accomplish.
take a soil sample to your local extension office.
ours used to do it for free. maybe you might have to pay a small fee. the prong testers are not too reliable.

I had a friend who built a chicken type pen around his blueberries. with a cover also.. no rabbits, deer or squirrels and only an occasional bird..
he spaced his plants about two feet apart each way.
room enough to walk, narrow enough for mulching..

do not plant close to black walnut trees. 
I had a beautiful 50 foot row of blueberries until the black walnut trees I planted grew up.. 

birds do not wait until the berries are ripe. as soon as there is a slight hint of blue on the berry, it is ready as far as the birds are concerned .


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