# Costs to set up a mobile home



## Jena (Aug 13, 2003)

I have a need for additional space. Utility connections, septic and codes are NOT an issue. I can work around all that.

I just need to know how much it might cost to set up the home itself. I would probably buy an old single-wide and it will go in my yard. It will be lived in by human beings.

How hard are they to move? Does it take a truck and crane, or can the single-wides be pulled like a trailer? Once here, do I need a graded area, or can I just throw gravel down for it to park on? Do I even need gravel? How much does skirting cost and is it really necessary?

Sorry, but I'm totally ignorant about this.

Thanks
Jena


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I'm in a 16 x 80. there is light gravel under it. It was set up by the dealer, and it does have skirting.

Recently a mobile moved, and I asked the mover how much to take down, move and re-set up this mobile home.

Reasonably low price for N. alabama is $1500.00. That does not mean they connect the electric or the pipes to the septic..... So that was about $275 for the plumbing/electric hook-ups 8 years ago - so figure inflation.

You may be able to have a friend do the septic/electric (my Dad did the connections on my first mobile home about 17 years ago, but times change), the friend doing it depends totally on your county/township rules.

Just figures for your general guestimation of how much it might cost there.

Angie


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## tamatik (Jan 3, 2006)

Up here..northern BC Canada.I can get 2 FREE mobiles.but can,t find anybody lisenced to haul them..so the owners will dismantle them and send them to the dump..such a waste.
jena
They haul them with a semi hooked up travel trailer..ball hitch.skirting is optional..if you live in cold climate skirting is good for protecting pipes and for keeping critters out.They can go on uneven ground but set on piles/posts..cement blocks all leveled would be fine.Gravel is a good idea cause sooner or later youre gonna be crawling under there and gravel is waay nicer than mud'


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## Tater'sPa (Jun 27, 2002)

Jena said:


> I have a need for additional space. Utility connections, septic and codes are NOT an issue. I can work around all that.
> 
> I just need to know how much it might cost to set up the home itself. I would probably buy an old single-wide and it will go in my yard. It will be lived in by human beings.
> 
> ...


If codes and zoning are not an issue, The cost to move it depends on where it's at and it'll need to be moved by a mobilehome hauler. Around here to move one to a location within say 25 miles, block it up to code and anchor it down would cost anywhere from 1500.00 to about 3000.00 depending on who did the job. I could probably find someone around here that would bring one in, block and anchor it for around 700.00...but ya get what ya pay for.
Gravel isn't needed but they suggest a heavy plastic sheeting as moisture barrier.
You will also be looking at cost of cement blocks for set up. The amount of cement blocks would depend on the slope of land and how high your home needs to set.
Mobilehome skirting is a good idea but if your not worried about codes/looks etc it can be done fairly cheap. A basic economy skirting kit for a 14 x 80 home would cost about 450.00-600.00 and fairly easy to install in a day by yourself. I've also seen used roofing tin as skirting.
HTH


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

A short distance haul can be accomplished with a 75HP agriculture tractor and a 2 5/16 ball. Otherewise the converted road tractor is necessary. Contract the haul separate from the setup. An illegal haul up to 20 miles will run a few hundred. The setup can be accomplished by anyone with a willingness and some cinder block (approximately 200 on level ground) The cinder block are usually available just by asking from the previous owner. Double blocking is preferred on 7 ft centers. Anchors are an absolute must to reduce storm related problems. Anchors will run a couple of hundred installed, this is not a DIY project without access to a tool from running the screws into the ground. Corrougated metal scraps make a good underpenning. Use short pieces installed vertically. On the top of the underpenning remove the screws holding the trailer metal to the frame and slide the corrugated under the trailer metal. Note..the top of the corrugated needs to be flattened for a neat appearance. Dig a small trench in the ground to set the bottom portion of the corrugated and backfill. If the scrap corrugated material is different colors it does matter as you can paint to match the home. This is far better than using the vinyl as weedeaters destroy the plastic.


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## DrippingSprings (Sep 22, 2004)

If its already sitting on the ground you can get it pulled to the location around here for about 300-350. If your country/state doesnt require a license bonded person to set it up you can do that yourself with a jack and three ft level in half a day or less. I can drop one off the blocks and have it back up level again in less than six hours. Shorter the trailer the faster the work goes. Now if you want one dropped pulled and reset upo around here it starts at 1500 and up. If you wish to have or are required to have the tie down straps you can do that yourself as well as you can rent the tool required to sink the shafts with.


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## BeeFree (Feb 23, 2004)

Our first mobile we bought just down the road from us, so used the JDeere to pull it to set it up. It is a 12x 65. Put metal tin that looks like tile for underpinning. Dug and buried the electric from pole to mobile. The electric line is what is expensive. Also dug and run the water line to it. Blocks come with the mobile. I can't remember what the prices were for the electric line and the tin, been too long, but if you can do the work yourself is much cheaper and you get it done the way you want it.

Our second mobile was about 30 miles away and was 14 x 70. We hired a mover to pull it and set it up and level it. That cost $750. The blocks and tin came with it. We done the underpinning a bit different on it. Built a frame out of 2x's around it and then put foam board over that then put the tin over that. Sure made a difference in heating and cooling. The mover couldn't get his drill to run the anchors [ground too solid] so we had to buy the other kind and do them ourselves. We put in a septic, underground electric wire, and water lines. We bought the anchors at Riggs. The septic tank and pipe from a local lumber yard and foam board. Used what scrap 2 x we had and bought some of the cheaper stock when we run out. 

So bottom line, what ever you can do yourself will help the cost.


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## Wolf mom (Mar 8, 2005)

If it's going to be part of a mortgage, you might think about a block stem wall. Or if you ever want to refinance, that's a major question! You might not get the loan if it's not on a "permanent footing".

Which actually, is pretty stupid, cause you can move a mobile off a block wall & demolish the stem wall.

A solid stem wall is better for heating & cooling. It also prevents critters from demolishing the metal or plastic skirting & getting under/in the house.

I have a doublewide. It was moved here on it's own undercarriage with many small tires. The hitch end was cut off (unwelded?) Yes, I have a block stem wall. 

Someone recently wrote about a spray foam you can buy & spray on the underside to help insulate the mobile. I think it comes in something like those 5 gal. propane containers.


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## patarini (Nov 19, 2004)

In Ill the width determines what u need to tow it with --if i remember right a 12 wide needed a 3/4 ton or larger pickup -- dmv can tell u for sure. Gravel under is fine, so is some concrete, biggest hassle is leveling, just go slow!


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