# Garage/Shop Projected started Here are some Pic's



## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Well I got the Foundation in, I have water and Conduit for elec run from house underground to Shop, Radiant Heat is in 4 200 FT Loops. Hopefully framing will start this week, Shop will be 28 X 28 with 10 Ft ceilings on the first floor and 8 ft ceilings on the second floor. Back of shop is about 4 Foot under ground with sides sloping down to 2 Foot toward the front.

SOme pic's show snow fence $200.00 worth to try and keep chickens out so there not eatting seed and some show where I had to dump all the dirt that cam out, I used it to raise a spot in the back where I plan to put a pole barn.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

Nice, you good live in it....


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

It will be big enough upstairs for a apt.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

I am trying for a barn look, that is why I am going with a barn door in the front, The opening is going to be 16 Ft when done, I am unsure if I should go with 2 10 tall by 8 wide swing out or if I should with two 8 Ft sliders.

I am going to run plenty of outlets, and lighting.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Here is where I am at so far, There are some pictures Of the grass being fixed from the traffic, some pic's of the white windows being painted brown, Since it was about a $100.00 each extra to order them in brown, and where the framing is at.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## elkhound (May 30, 2006)

outstanding !!!


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## MO_cows (Aug 14, 2010)

Looks great, it will be a nice building.


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## Dale Alan (Sep 26, 2012)

Very nice,quality build for sure . Congrats .


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## DW (May 10, 2002)

looks really good...can't wait to see finished look!


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Thanks guys, it is coming out nice, just wish the weather would cooperate.


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## unioncreek (Jun 18, 2002)

What did you use for sheeting on the walls, it looks like 2X material. I it's not sheeting I would have run it horiztonal since it would be much stronger.
Bob


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Will you use battens on the siding? Insulation? Looks good I like the look. A lot of upstairs space there....James


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## dablack (Jul 21, 2011)

Looks good. 

Will the material you put on the side be siding or what? The reason I ask, is to stop the house from racking (probably not the right term), it would have been best to run it at an angle or a little better to run it horizontally. Horizontal still gives you a "four bar linkage", where at an angle you are making triangles. 

Also, you can store stuff between the trusses upstairs. Just ladder frame between the trusses. I have a 19' wide room above my garage build and that is what I'm doing. I'm basically using the space between teh trusses as 2' wide closets. 

Build looks great. 
Austin


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## ihuntgsps (Mar 10, 2008)

Nice build so far.
Responding to the poster above. The horizontal 2x material on the outside of the framing serves the purpose of stiffening the structure. This is a well built building. 
I am sure he will be installing battens on the vertical joints then caulking to prevent water damage after spending this much $ to build a garage.


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## ihuntgsps (Mar 10, 2008)

while we are questioning your build I will ask if you are going to use hurricane straps to tie the trusses into your framing? I did not see that in any of the pictures.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Hey guy's, sorry I was gone for so long just got power back now, lost it Monday night.

The building has bracing to keep it from shifting/racking may not be able to see it well in the Pic's.

I will be installing hurricane straps, and I also will be installing battens, they will go up last.

I have decided on a Garage door which was ordered today, instead of going with the barn style sliding doors, 

All of teh framing and the bracing is out of 2x6 Lumber all from my buddies saw mill ( it is stamped and graded lumber )

Both sides of the trusses will have storage, Ill have four doors to enter one in each corner.

Still unsure what to do for heat up stairs, any ideas? I was thinking elec base board or some type of hanging heater.

Also not sure what to do on the outside after the wood has dried, Paint or stain or leave it natural?


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## MushCreek (Jan 7, 2008)

I had the same question about bracing, but you can see let-in diagonal braces in some of the pics. Nice job so far!


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Would the radiant from down stairs hat second floor?

Could I hook up hot water baseboard to the second floor?

Would the hot water heater that Ill prob use for the radiant be ot enough for the base board on the second floor?


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## Seymour (Dec 15, 2011)

if your infloor heat works downstairs and you dont insulate the floor you wont need much heat upstairs. also just wondering if you put any insulation under your slab to keep the heat from being lost in the ground? around here we always put 2" of sm foam under a heated slab.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Yes slab is insulated underneath. so you guys are saying not to insulate the floor and then the heat from downstairs should rise?


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Our old farmhouse that we lived in when I was growing up was heated with a floor register in each bedroom upstairs. Big wood heater in livingroom downstairs. Insulation in the "new" construction upstairs but none in the old downstairs or floor. Dad added the Gambrel roof and 4 bedrooms upstairs. The registers were a foot square and had louvers to close to regulate the heat, worked well for bedrooms but living space may need more heat. Also if shop and dirty downstairs, not so good....James


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## Seymour (Dec 15, 2011)

if downstairs is insulated well prolly wont even need registers, just the heat rising up through the un-insulated floor, dont know what you planning for up there but should keep it plenty toasty. i have seen houses built with infloor in basement and forced air upstairs and they end up never even turning on the forced air! definetly make it so you can turn off wutever system is upstairs leaving just the infloor "cause you just might find, you get what you need" from the slab heat. (sorry had that song in my head all day and has to use it.)


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

I hope that is the case.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

For some reason some of the Pic's are no longer in the post so Ill re post some, At the end there will be new pic's.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

Looks like she's well built..


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

I got the 3/4 Tongue and Groove floor on the upstairs done today, Still need to do the sofits and the wood trim on the outside and get the gable trim and the ridge cap on to finish the roof off. It's coming together.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Here are some Updated pic's, It's coming along, and also some shots of the view.




























http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee463/JoeyGags/Garage%202012/PB250117.jpg[/IMG

[IMG]http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee463/JoeyGags/Garage%202012/PB270152.jpg


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

Looking good.....


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## woodsy (Oct 13, 2008)

Think i saw a couple studs out of plumb , just kidding. 
Professional looking job and good design .
As for what if anything to put on your siding, nothing at all it will weather and mildew in places, turn grey eventually. Not good.
Natural stain is short lived , 5 years at best. Bout the same w/semi transparent.
A solid color stain is your best bet IMO with some of the better ones guaranteeing 10 yrs w/o greying or mildew. 
I think we used a solid natural cedar color Cabot about 7 yrs ago, holding up well and price was reasonable ($30-35 gal.) compared to some .
But shop around..... FWIW


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

I may do a Dark Stain, but it'll be next summer before I do anything, Need to let the wood air dry a bit.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Got the windows in, door upstairs framed out and saddle in, I also added a Brace at the peak to reinforce it for the Antique Block and Tackle BARN PULLEY system that I got that still is in working shape.

Sofits are also in on the front and I started to put the outlet boxes in.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Very nice I like it. I would like to build a cabin in that style, just 1 story with a storage truss area above and a detached garage to match....James


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

The difference in price between a gable style and a gambrel style truss is not much, you get so much more space for not much more money. I almost did a gable style in till i did the math.


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## frankva (May 21, 2009)

Do you anticipate having to snow shovel the gambrel more often than a similar gable truss roof?


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## Black forest (Dec 1, 2012)

Great job! if you don't mind me asking how wide are your boards and batten?


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

No you should not have to shovel it at all.

The Battens are just under 3 ( 2.5 Inches ) In and the Boards are 10 In (9.5 Inches). The Trim is a Touch under 4 Inches.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Got the Garage door in just need to finish the trim and weather stripping on the out side, Got some more Battens up and started to get the door for the up stairs built, figured I d also show a little detail of the Support for the pulley system that is going off the front.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Here is the front pretty much done except for the Top door, The Picture of the two small 2x4 is the support for the dowel that goes into the building that holds the rope. The weather stripping for the garage door is behind the door trim used a Dado blade to cut the grooves.

The Pictures from the field show the 300 Plus foot Ditch that I put in last year you keep the water from coming off the hill to fast or to much, it keeps it off the main yard for the house, the itch is 6 foot deep at it's deepest and is filled with ditch stone, it empties to a stream on both ends, the dirt that came out of the ditch went ont eh downhill side to act as a back stop.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

that is one beautiful building, and a very nice setting. I'm impressed.


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## bigdaddygb (Dec 3, 2012)

awesome build. Love the barn.. not so keen on the garage door. I think it would have been better with two wooden doors built like the second floor door. But awesome none the less. Very beautiful place you have there ad will be a great place to hide from wife in ... i mean work on the honey-do list in..lol


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

The original plan called for either two swing out doors or two sliding doors, But for anyone who has been around barns knows that it is very hard to build draft free sliding doors, and then to make swing out doors 8 ft by 10 ft each adds up to alot of weight per door and then you have issue of snow removal and what not. The door will blend in better after I either stain the building darker or if I let it age darker. Since I am heating the building I need to try and keep as much heat in as I can.


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## bigdaddygb (Dec 3, 2012)

true . i can see your point about the draft free build for heat. I do love the barn though. and maybe once you stain it or let it age it'll grow on me..lol.... congrats


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

Looks great,battens look great ..what did you nail them up with #7 Box? Where are you in NY.?


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Stainless Nails, Honestly not even sure of the size, Nails are paslode brand, have a few diffirent sizes for framing and odds and ends and what not. I used screws for most of the trim.


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## Wade1 (Dec 6, 2012)

Thanks for sharing your project it looks great!!


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Not much to update on, Been a little slow with Holidays and the weather. I am hoping to get the wiring started soon. This is whee I am at now, Got the perlins in on the back and the Tyvek up and some of the boards.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

OK, so work has begun again, Not much has been done over the last month, The service is hooked up and some of the wiring down stairs has been run. The windows are in also, Hope to get the doors done tom.


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## frankva (May 21, 2009)

How difficult was the "spring" on the overhead door to work with?

Mine has the spring that parallels the track, yours has it on the header, correct?


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Yes Mine is up top in the front running side to side, you need two 1/2 metal rods to adjust the spring, it wasn't to bad they give you a spring setting but it was way to stiff I had to back it off a bit. I like the spring where it is on mine, if it ever breaks it's not going anywhere.


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## SteveO (Apr 14, 2009)

Suggest you add a emergency exit door in the back
Steve


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## frankva (May 21, 2009)

I ran cable thru the spring that parallels the track, but it still draws my eye once in awhile... 

I had read that those header springs were difficult/scary to install/adjust. Thanks for the input.

Good looking door.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

If need be you can jump out of the top back windowsdo to teh way the ground is sloped and being my garage is built into the embankment it is only maybe a 8 ft drop, there are also the side windows which are only a foot off the ground, I may add a rear door at some point for the second floor.


The over head spring does take some effort to adjust after you start to get tension on them, but since you use the 1/2 in rod you can cut them to length so you have leverage, I don't think it was bad and they are out of the way and just look nicer and don't flop around like the side units do.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Here is a Update, Hopefully the build will get back on track, Had a few other projects to tend to.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

I know it has been a while but other Projects have come up, This is where I was at as of this morning, I did get some more of the upstairs done after these were taken. Building passed inspection and so did the Elec.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)




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## Mironsfarm (Feb 3, 2011)

looks wonderful!


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

I see you have one of those cheap Harbor Freight drywall lifters, just like mine. I hung some 5/8 by 16 foot sheets on a garage ceiling and it was all it could manage. I look forward to using it this summer.
Your barn looks great!


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## YamahaRick (Dec 22, 2012)

My first view of this thread; looks good!

I'm sure you could have had cut your time in half by not stopping to take so many pics.

I just want to say ... thanks for taking the time to take pics.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Thank you, I plan to finish the upstairs off, My Buddy who owns the Saw mill where I got all of my wood from, Makes finished Tongue and Groove and other types of wood for finishing, or I may go rough for the cabin feel.

Racerx, I used SER into the House and URD from Shop to a J Box under porch where it meets the SER. I Have a 100 Amp service, all of the circuits are 20 Amp except for the 220 for the Welders and Compressor. I'll Take a Pic of inside the box next time I open it, It came out real nice.

DOwnstairs I have 2 dual 4 Ft lights above the Bench on there own switch, I then have 8, 8 Ft quad Lights spaced evenly though out the shop downstairs, I have them on 4 switches so there are two per switch and I have them in squares so I can light up certain areas. This shop lights up very well. Upstairs I have two lights in the storage areas, 1 in the hallway and I also have three ceiling fans with lights down the center.
Outside I have a motion flood light and two Barn style lights above garage door and one above main door.

That little lift works very well for what it does.


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## WIWinterman (Feb 7, 2013)

Great job on the shed. Solid wood = solid building. With the steel roof, it'll probably last forever.

I really like the detail on the upper loft door! Dutch + shutter style is unique. It's probably easier on the jambs too eh?
Your work is impressive and the creativity more so.
:goodjob:


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Yes the Door was quite heavy before it was cut, it was built as one piece then cut up.


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## Ostie82 (Jul 19, 2013)

Beautiful barn/shop!


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## d'vash (Apr 25, 2013)

Love it, thank you for sharing.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Here are some Pic's after the stain.


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## cindilu (Jan 27, 2008)

I am blown away with all the pictures and how good of a job you have done. Tomorrow when I get time I am going to go through all the posts and read up on what you have done but in the mean time, good job is not even going to begin with how well you have put your barn together. WOW.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Thanks, I am hooking up a 80,000 BTU Mr.Big Max hanging Propane heater today, I am holding off on the Radiant in till I figure it out and make sure i do it right.

The Pic's are hosted by PhotoBucket and I may go over my Monthly Bandwidth Limit if I do I can post a direct link from another site.

Thanks


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## John_Canada (Aug 17, 2013)

Fantastic job! Very well suited to the surroundings and good choice putting it into the hill. Curious, did you need a water management system around the foundation?


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Yes, The ground is very wet there coming off the hill and pasture, I did put in Sand,Stone and pipes, So far so good.


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## Wollett (Jan 21, 2013)

Love the design was it one that you bought!


Sent from my iPad using Homesteading Today


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

What do you mean bought? I built and Designed it all on a Napkin ( Not Joking ).

Thanks for all the nice Comments.


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## Joe.G (Jun 26, 2012)

Here is a link to a Site that has the Pic's, If you guys can't see them here.

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,61053.msg1054514.html#msg1054514


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