# aluminum i beam construction



## ihuntgsps (Mar 10, 2008)

I bought a 36' x 33' bldg. I plan to use as a shop/garage bldg behind my hosue.
structure is made of 1/4" thick aluminum i beams.
7' sidewall height and 13' peak height. was a bldg built over an outdoor pool.
ibeams bolt together with what look like stainless bolts.
has horizontal aluminum bracing between i beams to support roof panels.

roof panels are translucent heavy 2 thickness panels like on greenhouse.
side panels are alum frame sliding doors and plastic double thickness greenhouse type panels.

my plan is to reuse greenhouse panels and some of the sliding doors by bldg a greenhouse or two.

my question is can I attach steel siding to the aluminum directly or will the metals have an issue touching directly? 

thought about using 2x4's horizontally and bolting to beams then adding siding on that.

open to ideas??? Going for cheap but long lasting constructing.

will be anchored to concrete pad.


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## ihuntgsps (Mar 10, 2008)

i need to clarify.
I plan to use the frame work and build a shop/garage type bldg.
Will have corrugated steel siding and roof when complete.

I then plan to reuse the greenhouse panels and sliding doors in seperate buildings.

I am curious if anyone has advice on attaching steel directly to aluminum i beams or best way to attache 2x4's to the i beams? I assume bolting them would be the only way?


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Might be some sort of clamp you can use to fasten them to the I beam! Sounds like a terrific project though!


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## InvalidID (Feb 18, 2011)

You're worried about stress or electrolysis? They make barrier creams to deal with electrolysis, also it might be worth looking up sacrificial anodes. As for metal stress, I dunno.


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## ihuntgsps (Mar 10, 2008)

Yes, thank you for knowing the correct words to describe what I am concerned about. 
If I have areas that the steel is in direct contact with the aluminum will I have issues with rust/etc.? 
I am very familiar with building using wood or metal studs but have never built with aluminum. 
Paid only $500 for the bldg. so contemplating selling the aluminum i- beams/etc. and using the funds to build with wood. Would need a good chunk of change in return for the aluminum to make that a good option financially.
Do all the fasteners that touch aluminum need to be stainless steel?


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## InvalidID (Feb 18, 2011)

ihuntgsps said:


> Yes, thank you for knowing the correct words to describe what I am concerned about.
> If I have areas that the steel is in direct contact with the aluminum will I have issues with rust/etc.?
> I am very familiar with building using wood or metal studs but have never built with aluminum.
> Paid only $500 for the bldg. so contemplating selling the aluminum i- beams/etc. and using the funds to build with wood. Would need a good chunk of change in return for the aluminum to make that a good option financially.
> Do all the fasteners that touch aluminum need to be stainless steel?


 Just make sure not to use a higher grade of stainless, like 400 as it has too much iron content. Something around 318 I think should work. You can also use aluminum fasteners but they cost quite a bit more.

Even using stainless you're going to get some electrolysis but it's something that will be a few decades away. Also, if you used to different grades of aluminum you'd have the same problem. They do make cap systems for just this issue, but I don't know if it's worth the extra expense.


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## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

Use 318 stainless screws and get a bunch of rolls of foam sill sealer. Run that inbetween all steel and aluminum connections.


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## wharton (Oct 9, 2011)

wy_white_wolf said:


> Use 318 stainless screws and get a bunch of rolls of foam sill sealer. Run that inbetween all steel and aluminum connections.


 Good idea, I would also look at putty tape. This is the rolled sealant used in the RV industry to seal joints. I have worked with it, a bit. You can just roll it out and pat it down to stick to most surfaces. If you are going with sill seal, it can be cut into neat, smaller strips with one slick trick. Take two scraps of wood and nail them into an L shape. A pair of 1x6 pieces about 2' long is good. Now take utility knive blades and carefully stick them into the wood, creating vertical knives spaced the desired distance apart. The wide roll of sill seal is then pulled through the knife blades, and the other leg of the wooden contraption acts as a fence to keep everything running straight. i sometimes split a 6" roll into 4 smaller strips to air seal new homes when framing, using a jig like this. Works great.


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## dirtman (Sep 15, 2011)

I have to wonder about how much you would have to worry about electrolysis. There are plenty of steel bolts in a motorcycle engine. The putty tape is a good solution though if you want to separate the two materials.


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## TNHermit (Jul 14, 2005)

Lots of good suggestions. One more is if the tape and stuff you buy is to expensive get some 3.8 cdx ply and rip some furring strips and put in between. Might not be as pretty since you have clear panels. One good thing if there any tiny leaks the ply will turn black


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## ihuntgsps (Mar 10, 2008)

thanks for the suggestions.
I checked the building out a little closer last night and the i-beams are 10" x 2.5" and have a 1" area in the middle that holds the panels in place.
this makes half the i-beam exposed to outside and half exposed inside with the roof and side panels installed in the middle channel. Span between i-beams is 8' and has 2.5" horizontal cross members every 3.5' to support the roof.
anyone have an idea what the scrap value of the aluminum might be?
side beams are 7' tall and there are 14 of them. roof beams are 18' long and there are 10 of them.


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## TNHermit (Jul 14, 2005)

ihuntgsps said:


> thanks for the suggestions.
> I checked the building out a little closer last night and the i-beams are 10" x 2.5" and have a 1" area in the middle that holds the panels in place.
> this makes half the i-beam exposed to outside and half exposed inside with the roof and side panels installed in the middle channel. Span between i-beams is 8' and has 2.5" horizontal cross members every 3.5' to support the roof.
> anyone have an idea what the scrap value of the aluminum might be?
> side beams are 7' tall and there are 14 of them. roof beams are 18' long and there are 10 of them.



If that is the case how does it handle water run off. I would take a picture and post it. Might be able to go over the top


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## ihuntgsps (Mar 10, 2008)

bldg is 12 miles form my house but will take pics soon.
the water run off is strange but seems to work (bldg has been up 25yrs or more and still dry.
will take pic of it so everyone can see what I am talking about.


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