# ford 8n not starting when warm



## wendle (Feb 22, 2006)

Seems like I saw something about a ford 8n being hard to start on this forum, but not have any luck finding it again. I'm having trouble starting my ford when it's warm sometimes, I might even have to wait till it cools off which can be awhile. It also seems to need the choke occasionally when I'm driving it. Starts acting like it might cut out, then I choke it and it's fine. It's on a 6 volt system. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

Need more details to help you with the won't start when warm bit.

As for using the choke, indicative of restricted gasoline flow.


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## wendle (Feb 22, 2006)

It runs good most of the time when you get it running, but is always a little hard to start. Throttle seems to have to be about half way, and the choke out all the way. Some of the time I could smell a little gas like it might be flooding. When I first start it I will get alot of black exhaust at first coming from the carb area then it clears up. It almost seems like it's getting too much gas .


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

Well they do flood easily.

6 volt systems are darned persnickity when it comes to their electrical connections. If they aren't clean, you got voltage drops. And on a 6 volt system, even a little has a big effect. 

Coming right along with that is how well the starter spins the engine over. Many an N goes "err..err..err" Which indicates poor current flow, most likely due to dirty connections and too small battery cables. For in tip-top shape, they spin over the engine just like your car does. And that has a huge effect on the engines ability to start.

Something else that happens, depending on the year, is the ballast resistor gets hot. Too hot actually, and then it blocks current to the ignition. Many an N that runs for X length of time and then dies until it cools down is suffering from this.


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## wendle (Feb 22, 2006)

Sounds like I need to clean the connections, it does crank slow, I just thought it was due to the 6 volt system. It is a 1950 with a hydraulic pump mounted on the front(maybe this makes it harder to start as well)

Will the ballast resistor cause to want to cut out? I did manage to keep it running this time with the choke, but in the past before I tried that I would have to just leave it where it sat and let it cool off. I also have to be careful not to let it idle too low when it's hot.


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## moopups (May 12, 2002)

Check your fuel lines for vapor lock, heat will cause a bubble to block the line. Shield or reroute fuel lines if they are subject to heat.


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## Hip_Shot_Hanna (Apr 2, 2005)

proly vapor lock , my 2000 gas ford does the same thing it has a filter just as the pipe goes into the carburettor , its the pipe adaptor and filter combined and a little bugger for getting blocked


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## uncle Will in In. (May 11, 2002)

It needs new points and condenser in the distribiter. A bad condenser will work when cold, but fails when hot. Burnt points will misfire when pulling. Easy Fix.


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## petefarms (Oct 17, 2004)

Yesterdays Tractors is a good website for these type of tractors, very frustrating when it wont start.


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## countrymech (Nov 28, 2005)

I'd look real hard at the coil. My '49 did that when I first got it and I wound up swapping the ignition coil. While you are in there change out the condenser and points. They don't cost very much and a new coil will kill em if they are weak. Is this a front mount or side mount distributor? This will make a big difference on the replacement parts, make sure they give you the proper parts for your N. As far as the 6 volt goes, there are fairly economical conversion kits available for 12 volt. converted mine last year. My only regret was not doing it sooner. Good luck.


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## John Schneider (Sep 9, 2005)

Sounds like it might be more than one problem. My n has some of your symptoms when I manage to leave the fuel turned on with the tractor not running. It becomes hard to start and blows some black smoke until it burns up all that excess fuel? I shut off the fuel in order to kill the motor and then kill the switch. Also, as others have stated, 12v is the way to go. Problems are probably solved with the advice given in this thread. Good luck.


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## Gideon (Sep 15, 2005)

As John said there may be more than one problem. If the air filter is below the tank(updraft carb) then gas may continue to seep into the oilbath while sitting. Make sure the cut off is working. Coil is probably the culprit in not running when hot. Another may be a slightly clogged fuel line. Take the settling bowl loose and make sure you are getting a full flow-it has a strainer also that may accumulate trash. Then continue to the carb and again check for flow(careful with the spilled gasoline). Hope you find the aggravating problem-please advise when fixed,thanks


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## wendle (Feb 22, 2006)

Thanks for all the help with this problem everyone. 
I changed the coil, and put new plugs in. The exhaust had a small leak near the motor which caused the smoke there. 

The battery is kind of old and doesn't hold a good charge, I think that causes alot of problems too.
It seems to be running good now.


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