# Electric fence



## 6ncounting (Apr 23, 2008)

we are going to put up electric fence this weekend. Since we are complete newbie's at this, I was hoping for some tips, tricks and guidance. TIA


----------



## Up North (Nov 29, 2005)

6ncounting said:


> we are going to put up electric fence this weekend. Since we are complete newbie's at this, I was hoping for some tips, tricks and guidance. TIA


What kind of livestock do you expect it to contain?
Permanent or temporary fence?
What materials are you using?


----------



## elgordo (Apr 9, 2005)

Is your fence going to be temporary or perm? For semi-perm fencing I use rebar as a post and attach with special plastic electric fence holders. I prefer rope fence for ease of use and visibility. I also drill a small hole in each plastic piece so I can thread an insulated wire through to hold the electric rope better (as needed, mainly on corners). Also drive another rebar perp to corner "post" and tie together with twine to brace corner post. This would be easier to explain with drawings!
Best of luck.
Premier Fencing has a great catalog describing diff fencing types.


----------



## bigmudder77 (Jun 9, 2008)

ya what type of live stock what are you using to hold the fence up where are you putting it at 

alot more info is needed to be able to help you out


----------



## 6ncounting (Apr 23, 2008)

we're hoping to contain our wondering Dexter herd. (only 7 ) We bought the rebar posts and the electric fence wire and some insulators from the co-op. It is to be a semi-permant training area for them as they are new to our little property and need to re-learn about boundries.


----------



## bigmudder77 (Jun 9, 2008)

i think that should work tie some like white socks or rags on it so they can see it at least thats what we did to ours


----------



## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

The output of the fence charger is key to controlling the cattle. It is essential that the shock imprint on the cattles' brain the consequence of touching the fence. Once this happens you can confine the cattle with a poly twine. What do you have for a charger/energizer?


----------



## 6ncounting (Apr 23, 2008)

Not sure what I got by way of a charger, I do know that I have to install it in my barn as that is the nearest electrical source. It came in a brown box from the Co-op and it said that it would keep all animals out. Cost $110, the guy said it was the most affordable one that worked.


----------



## genebo (Sep 12, 2004)

I have five strands, at 10", 18", 28", 38" and 48". I think you could eliminate the 48" wire for Dexters. I got a fence plan from my USDA representative. She gave me a pamphlet with complete instructions for putting up fences of several types, plus lots of good advice. She ended up signing me up for a Virginia State program that helped me fertilize, seed and install waterers.

Most Dexters are easily controlled by minimal fences. Once in a while you'll get one that likes to wander. The best thing you can do to make your fences work is to make your pastures a place they want to be.

Genebo
Paradise Farm


----------



## Haggis (Mar 11, 2004)

I have one strand around 30 odd acres, and it ranges from knee high to waste high, depending the span between the posts. The only trouble I've had in four years is deer and bear running through the fence, knocking it down. The largest number of cattle we've had on the land was 12 mature head.


----------



## Up North (Nov 29, 2005)

6ncounting said:


> we're hoping to contain our wondering Dexter herd. (only 7 ) We bought the rebar posts and the electric fence wire and some insulators from the co-op. It is to be a semi-permant training area for them as they are new to our little property and need to re-learn about boundries.


By rebar posts I take that to mean round steel electric fenceposts. Given the materials you have chosen, I would just throw out a few ideas for you. One is to use regular steel T-Posts for your corner posts. They will bolster the strength and staying power over rebar posts only. These will require corner insulators, however. Either the white porcelain round bobbins or the plastic corner insulators can work.
To get a straight fence on the sides, Plant your corner posts first, then stretch wire out between them, then go along the taut wire and pound in your rebar posts with a heavy hammer. Then put insulators on and attach wire.
If you want a nice addition, go to TSC and buy some of the wire ratchets, and incorporate one of them into every straight run. Then when the wire starts to get loose, you can just put the ratchet handle on and tighten wire in 2 minutes time.
Click here to see ratchet:
http://www.mytscstore.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_35999_-1______14345|14359|14362|14364|35999?listingPage=true

Also be sure fencer is grounded properly. Necessary for good performance.


----------



## bigmudder77 (Jun 9, 2008)

we use to have around 100 milking cows and our fences were mostly up we had some that the deer ran through or wild dogs and they broke it but you could hear the electric fence hitting the ground when it was down cows stayed away from it some jerseys went up to it to see but didnt go out of the fence line but for the most part it held them in if the fence was up or down we had a back up fence around most of our farm to help keep stuff out and to keep our cows in cause we lived like in a vally with woods all around


----------

