# Insulated outerware



## mj1angier (Jan 3, 2006)

Ok, newbe here and need some help.

I am looking to make some outerware for hunting. I found a good place to get the camo cloth but I am at a loss for what type of insulated batting to sew it to. looking to add warmth. Will batting like for a quilt work or do i need something diffrent?

thanks for the help

mickey


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## WayneR (Mar 26, 2007)

Mickey,
Inter-library loan 'The Secure Home' by Joel Skousen.

He has an entry listed for a clothing system that uses open cell polyurathane foam with polypropelene shell. PALS system?

There was a site listed in the book for buying material and foam. 

A better alternative would be to obtain oversize polypropelene 'long johns' from a supplier like Campmor. Obtain open cell half inch thick foam from a supplier like McMaster-Carr. Accquire a tube of compatable foam adheasive from the same source.

It should be possible to stuff one set of underwear with crumpled newspaper, cover it with the foam and then cover that with a second set of underwear. Tack sew and glue where needed to make a "sandwich" of cloth with a foam core. Remove the newspaper.

The above author claims the system wicks the moisture away from the body, through the OPEN CELLED foam layer, while retaining warmth.

Will try it when time and funds permit.


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## westbrook (May 10, 2002)

are you familiar with the fabric "Tricot"? (tree co)

Tricot usually comes in 108" wide and an assortment of colors. to tell
which is the right side or the wrong side...grab a corner _| hand on
each side.. gently pull... Tricot will roll to the right side of the
fabric .... not that it matters!

Now what does Tricot have to do with warm clothing??? I am getting to
it! <LOL>

Have you seen sheets of foam? only the foam you are looking for is
very thin.. though the thicker the warmer you will be.

Usually 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick, unless of course you are out in the
frozen north pole!!! then you would want thicker then that.

so you make clothing that will fit next to your skin. you will then
wear a sweater or shirt and coat as well as pants over this garment
you are making.

What you will do is take the tricot, place it on the table, now lay
the foam over that and then another layer of tricot on top. A pain in
the hinney to work with!

cut out fabric and sew together. If you have a serger use it, if not use a ZigZag stitch on your sewing machine.

the foam wicks the moisture (read sweat) off your body and keeps you warm.

This link explains some of it, you get the idea and it is worth trying. 

http://www.preparemyfamily.com/emergency_preparedness/surviving_the_cold.pdf

>>For Areas with Extreme Cold / Precipitation

1 set PALS Clothes 1 pair good winter boots 1 good Rain Suit (Harbor
freight)

"Anyone can be truly warm and comfortable at temperatures from above
freezing to well below Zero with ease. It's not magic, it's science.
The technology and equipment have been in development for over 30
years. We call it "P.A.L.S." (The Phillips Arctic Living System).
P.A.L.S. is an approach to winter clothing with performance advantages
over anything you've ever worn. Simply described, the P.A.L.S.
clothing system will (when properly used) keep you dryer and warmer
than other layered technology clothing on the market." Jim Phillips

http://www.jimsway.com
http://www.preparemyfamily.com
http://www.foamclothing.com

1" Foam Clothes Winter Boots Rain Suit


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## WayneR (Mar 26, 2007)

What Westbrook said (repeated). If you are not a tailor/seamstress the modification of pre-made clothing (long johns) would be MUCH EASIER!
No need for patterns,sergers,sewing machines,et al.

With some experimentation and a helper, it should be possible to 'build' the clothing while actually being worn. The previous suggestion for newspaper stuffing would work if you are alone. Test the foam adheasive for compatability with the polypropolene cloth. 

Wrap the person with newspaper (in case of glue bleed through). Cut and apply foam in large sections, using dots of adheasive and straight pins to hold in place until dry. The person can be lying down for comfort.

Remove straight pins, put on second layer. Hand sew hems and spot sew 'dots' through all three layers to bind them together. Should be able to make booties, head covering and mittens also.

You should make allowances at knees, elbows, etc. as the foam will tear at these points. The cloth will be more flexable than the foam core. 

Even if it is slightly on the large size, there is still a 'dead air space' in baggy areas, which will also insulate.


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