# Moving Raspberry plants questions



## Sumer (May 24, 2003)

I have to move my raspberrys. Either that or mow them all down. Where they are now is just not working and they are over grown, inexcessable and out of control. In 5 years they have never produced fruit big enough to pick but then I didnt know they were supposto be pruned either.
Last fall I cut them down to about 3' high and tried to cut out any dead stuff. 
I am hoping moving some to an actual row that is more accessable (instead of a bush) will produce fruit. 
Is this a good idea? Will this work? Is this the right time to do this? 
I dont know what kind they are. They are just starting to get leaves. Zone 6.

Yep Im pretty much clueless here. :stars:


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## DW (May 10, 2002)

We dug these plants up f/MIL's house that had never produced. They are now 5' tall and more fruit than you can imagine! We are getting ready to move them again b/c they are overtaking the garden. We think we'll move half one yr and other half the following so we'll still have fruit. In Colorado, the trick is water them.


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## Ardie/WI (May 10, 2002)

Yes, give them plenty of water and don't plant them any deeper than they were before you transplanted them.

A healthy dose of well rotted manure dug into the new area is a good idea too.


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## Sumer (May 24, 2003)

Sounds like it willl work then, I really love raspberrys! Not being able to water them is part of the inecessable part. Where I want to put them will be closer to the house and the hose. Even if they dont fruit this year there will be hope for next year. 

Thanks,
Sumer


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## Ravenlost (Jul 20, 2004)

Put rotten wood around them as mulch after you move them. They love that stuff!


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## Callieslamb (Feb 27, 2007)

I wish I knew which kind of raspberries you are talking about. oh well, if you have to move them, I guess it doesn't matter. Are the berries red or black? Blacks are summer bearers. Some reds fruit in the summer and some are called everbearers or fall bearers. Since we don't know, you can move them about any time, earlier is obviously better since they need time to establish good roots before it gets hot. Since what you do with them depends on what kind they are use this for a idea of which kind you have. *Summer* bearers usually form more of a clumping habit. The canes came pretty much from a central location. some people will tie the entire plant to a post rather than using wires for a trellis. The *ever-bearers *spread by the roots and can come up any and every where. 

You can plant either kind in a row easily. That is how I keep mine going. Just dig them up and transplant them elsewhere. The sad part is,....summer bearers need to be about 3-5 feet apart and fall bearers - 1-2 feet apart. since you have already pruned them back, just dig and replant. I would only leave the canes that are new growth - green- rather than the brown canes.

This year canes will grow. If you get no berries, they are probably *summer- bearers.* Summer bearers fruit on canes that grew last year. So if you move them this year - you get no fruit. In that case: let the canes grow to 4-5 feet and cut them off. You can tie them to a wire if you want to keep them neat. Pruning them will encourage them to start developing side shoots. Leave these alone as they are what will fruit next year. Each year in late fall, cut back to the ground the canes that produced fruit and tie/prune the new canes that have grown. They will produce your fruit for next year.

*If you do get berries this year, they are ever bearers, or fall bearers.* Fall bearers, are easily cared for. After the canes die back in the fall, you cut them all cleanly to the GROUND. Next year, new canes will grow and produce fruit. And you don't have to pick between old and new thorny canes to do your pruning - a distinct advanage

There are a few reasons why you might not be getting fruit that I can think of: 
They might be summer bearers and the canes are dying back each year- never getting old enough to fruit well
They don't have enough sunlight- though they can take a bit of shade
The canes are over crowded I thin mine to 6 inches apart (fall bearers only)
The birds and squirrels are getting them before you do.
Not enough water.

I hope transplanting them solves the problem!


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## RedTartan (May 2, 2006)

Great post, Callieslamb! Mind if I pick your brain a little? 

I have tons of old overgrown blackberries on my property. Tons. And new ones are coming up everywhere. I mean five feet out from the plant, here comes a brand new single cane. I want to take some of these newer canes and bring them up closer to the house. According to your post, I should do that now? If I cut the remaining mess down to the ground (because they really are that bad) what will happen to them? Will it kill them? Or will they grow back? Their root systems must be monstrous for them to be this size...

Thanks and sorry for the hijack,

 RedTartan


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## Callieslamb (Feb 27, 2007)

RedTartan said:


> Great post, Callieslamb! Mind if I pick your brain a little?
> 
> I have tons of old overgrown blackberries on my property. Tons. And new ones are coming up everywhere. I mean five feet out from the plant, here comes a brand new single cane. I want to take some of these newer canes and bring them up closer to the house. According to your post, I should do that now? If I cut the remaining mess down to the ground (because they really are that bad) what will happen to them? Will it kill them? Or will they grow back? Their root systems must be monstrous for them to be this size...
> 
> ...


Pick away, but remember it's probably worth what you paid for it. Yes, now is the best time to transplant them. Take as much soil with them as you can. The tops might die back so watch them and keep them watered well for the first week or so. The only trouble you should have with transplanting is if you try to transplant the older canes. they will often die back. sometimes their roots will survive and still send up new canes though. Go for the younger canes growing up now.

As for the old patch, I would cut out all the old brown woody stuff - all the way to the ground. Leave the canes that grew up last year - they are the ones that will fruit this year. Wait until after you have picked all the berries this year if you want to get rid of the patch! I am just speaking from my experience - mine fruit on 2nd year wood only. After it fruits, a cane is good for nothing but putting thorns in your way. The new canes that are growing now (that you want to transplant) will fruit next year. So keep some of the old for this year's crop, then get rid of it (and good luck with that) and then you will still have berries next year too. Cutting back the canes does not kill the patch, but will only make it better. They may be pretty croweded in teh center now, which is why they are sending out canes so far from the main plants.

Prune old canes back to 4-5 feet to encourage them to grow sideshoots which is where the berries are produced anyway. I keep the side shoot back to about 6 inches, when I have the time to prune them. if I don't have time, they are just a bit harder to manage is all. My motivation in caring for my patch this way is to keep my berries in bounds and make it so I can pick them ALL. 

My dad used to take his brushhog right through the middle of a huge wild blackberry patch. It made it so we could pick them easier and kept the patch in bounds. Just don't mow them all down if you want berries this year! My dad didn't always figure that one out and we would have a summer every once in a while with no blackberries on our cereal!


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## Sumer (May 24, 2003)

Thank You Callieslamb, I think that is what I didnt understand. 1st year -second year growth and what to cut when. It makes more sence the way you said it than what I found elsewhere online. From your explaination I believe mine are summer berries too. 

~~Sumer


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## IMP (Feb 7, 2006)

Can anyone suggest a good fertilizer for raspberries besides rotted manure, of which I have none? Any suggestions as to when the best time to fertilize is?


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