# How to remove these garden cart wheels



## capecupcake (Jan 31, 2011)

I have had this cart since I was a kid and the wheels are rusted and only one has rubber on it. I found replacement wheels but I can't get the wheels off the axle. The ring right around the axle is fixed to the axle.


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## ace admirer (Oct 5, 2005)

use grinder or flat file to chamfer the axle.
use emery cloth to remove any rust on the exposed part of the axle.
purchase a can of liquid wrench and follow directions on the can (apply and tap with small hammer)....remember patience is required....sometimes hours of it......

if that does not work.....light up a torch and heat-cool the bearing until it releases .....or you burn up the thing beyond repair...."if you cannot fix it....fix it so it cannot be fixed"


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

What you are referring to as a ring is actually the inner race of the bearing IMO.

Is the axle a single rod that goes from one side of the cart to the other or is the axle(s) two separate pieces?

I would not damage the axle or wheel attempting to get the wheel off as someone may know how. Patience may have its reward.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Apply penetrating oil to the joint of the axle to the inner race. Let that soak. Put a short piece of pipe or a large socket over the axle stub and butt the pipe/socket against the "ring" and tap the setup driving the wheel inward. Once the wheel shifts inward you should see a broken off cotter key in the axle.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Is this the replacement wheel you located?
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331764_200331764&issearch=145123


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## po boy (Jul 12, 2010)

Maybe what agmantoo said. Do you see bearings anywhere on the shaft?

and welcome to the forum..


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

I agree with the poster above who said that ring is the inner bearing race. It is a little sleeve about half inch long.

It is being held on by a pin of some sort. This isnt a pressed on bearing.

Here is your original pic with what I think maybe one end of the pin circled in red. You will need a pin punch or at least a nail of some sort to push it on through. I suspect it originally a cotter pin and somebody broke head and tail off trying to remove it.


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## carasel (Dec 31, 2009)

Between 11 and 12 o'clock position on the axle. Is that bump,the head of a cotter pin or pressure pin? It could be holding the wheel on.
I can't get the pic big enough/clear enough to tell.
If it is. See if you can straighten out the other end and pull it out or use a flat ended punch and gently tap it out. You may need to grind off one end to tap it out.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

I believe you guys are correct and possibly that is the two ends of the cotter pin bent against the axle. Here is another view of low quality


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## capecupcake (Jan 31, 2011)

Thank you so much for all of the replies and the warm welcome. Let me answer some questions: This is a one piece axle. I looked closely again at the area you circled and I don't see any remnants of a pin. I also looked on the opposite side of that wheel and the other wheel and there are no pins. I think what you are seeing is one of many indentations I made while whacking the *&$% out of this thing. I did put some oil on it and then tried to persuade the "ring" to move. I have taken some more pics of both wheels, including the opposite sides. On the one pic you can see a cap on the end of the axle. The one on the other end has been removed. I am having a problem removing this one. My personality will not let me give up on this. I really appreciate any help. It almost seems that there is some sort of ridge or something on that "ring" behind the next ring that is holding the wheel on. Sorry if this is confusing.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

capecupcake

Seeing the backside pic puts a different light on the issue. That partial clip seems to indicate that the manufacturer had some type of rig to perform dual purpose. The device not only locked the wheel on it located the inner race without have to do any machining of a round rod. Do you think the new wheels will fit that old axle?. I would think the axle is worn out of round where the wheel mounts.


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## capecupcake (Jan 31, 2011)

The axle is rusted, but is otherwise in great shape. I am not sure what it is like under the wheels though. I tried looking for a new axle, but the only one I found was too expensive. The axle is 5/8".


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## oneokie (Aug 14, 2009)

The last 2 pics in your last post show that the inner bearing is rusted to the axle shaft. You will need to soak both bearings and the shaft in a penetrating oil. Those pics also show that there is an inner and outer bearing. The axle shaft between those bearings is also probably rusted. If you have a way of heating those inner races to red hot, they may move. My suggestion is to use a cutting torch to cut them off the shaft. Or use a grinder with a cutoff wheel.

You will also need to dress up the end of the shaft where you have been beating on it to slide the old wheel off the shaft or before you install the new wheel.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

oneokie

On the pics of the backside, what it that thin outer sleeve in the first pic?


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## oneokie (Aug 14, 2009)

That is the inner race of the bearing if you are refering to the sleeve that is closest to the axle.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

oneokie

Not the inner race. Look in post #10 pics 1 and 2 starting at top. Heavy sheet metal like item looks like a seal but the inner part is in the wrong location of the bearing to be a dust seal.


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## oneokie (Aug 14, 2009)

Pics 1 & 2 in post # 10 are not of the back side. Those are pics of the other wheel on the opposite end of the axle, the wheel with the good rubber tire.

Are you refering to the butterfly shaped piece of metal?

from post # 10


> On the one pic you can see a cap on the end of the axle. The one on the other end has been removed.


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## oneokie (Aug 14, 2009)

capecupcake said:


> The axle is rusted, but is otherwise in great shape. I am not sure what it is like under the wheels though. I tried looking for a new axle, but the only one I found was too expensive. The axle is 5/8".


Check at a farm supply store, a metal supplier, or machine shop for 5/8" cold roll rod. That will be sufficient for a new axle. If you did not damage the cap when you removed it, that cap and the one on the opposite end of the axle can be reused to retain the new wheels on the new axle.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

My error with the backside location statement. I watch tv as I type and that is the results. I believe the butterfly appearing item is holding the wheel onto the axle. Am I wrong? I did read on the internet that the axle bearings on new replacement wheels had bearings that were 3/4 inch ID.


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## oneokie (Aug 14, 2009)

You are not wrong, the butterfly thing is a retainer, similar to what is used to retain the wheels on a childs wagon or the rear wheels on a tricycle. 

That type of bearing is available in many different bore sizes. I am aware of 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" bore sizes.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

oneokie said:


> Check at a farm supply store, a metal supplier, or machine shop for 5/8" cold roll rod. That will be sufficient for a new axle. If you did not damage the cap when you removed it, that cap and the one on the opposite end of the axle can be reused to retain the new wheels on the new axle.


I think as rusty and buggered as axle ends are getting, I too would just go buy a 5/8 plain rod at TSC or hardware store. Or possibly find such on ebay of all places. I'd forget the clips, and just drill small hole (mild steel drills easily) through and use cotter pin.


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## capecupcake (Jan 31, 2011)

That butterfly shaped thing is an end cap. There was one on the other end but I removed it to get at the wheel. The replacement wheels I am looking at come with their own cap that screws into the wheel and holds the wheel on that way.


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## DIM TIM (Aug 9, 2010)

WD-40 LOTS AND LOTS OF WD-40 ! ! ! Spray it liberally, and wait a few days for it to soak in well. Try it then. If it won't budge...spray, wait, and try again. Repete as needed. Eventually this will work.


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## donewithcity (Sep 9, 2010)

HermitJohn said:


> I think as rusty and buggered as axle ends are getting, I too would just go buy a 5/8 plain rod at TSC or hardware store. Or possibly find such on ebay of all places. I'd forget the clips, and just drill small hole (mild steel drills easily) through and use cotter pin.


I did that with Grandmas old garden cart recently, new 10" wheels and an axle, $15.


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## Blu3duk (Jun 2, 2002)

I probably would have used a wire wheel on the rust to get oil under the metal parts needing removed, maybe even use the power blaster rust disolver that i cant stand the smell of!

great discussion though, perhaps in the future someone will benefit from this thread!

William
Idaho


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

HawaiiDIY said:


> Pound a pickle fork behind wheel, the cap and wheel will pop off. Not hard...


11 year old thread started by a person who hasn't been back since 2011.


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## wr (Aug 10, 2003)

Danaus29 said:


> 11 year old thread started by a person who hasn't been back since 2011.


It's hard for me to have time to scour every post on every forum but if members will report spammers, I'm always happy to show them the door.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

wr said:


> It's hard for me to have time to scour every post on every forum but if members will report spammers, I'm always happy to show them the door.


they have certainly been bold and persistent lately


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## backwoodsman7 (Mar 22, 2007)

wr said:


> It's hard for me to have time to scour every post on every forum but if members will report spammers, I'm always happy to show them the door.


There's an easy way to make that job a lot easier: Set new members to Moderated, or whatever XenForo calls the setting that makes their posts require admin/moderator approval. Then, after they've made an obviously legitimate post or two, take them off Moderated.

In my experience, spammers don't bother signing up if they know they won't be able to post. So, rather than adding to moderator workload, as some might think it would, it actually greatly reduces workload.

Or, if whoever is in charge of such things doesn't want to do that, give a lot more people the ability to deal with spammers, so it can happen a lot faster and the burden is spread around. I'm sure there are a lot of longtime members who would be happy to help with that if they could.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

wr said:


> It's hard for me to have time to scour every post on every forum but if members will report spammers, I'm always happy to show them the door.


I didn't think the bumper was a spammer. I report advertising posts.


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## backwoodsman7 (Mar 22, 2007)

Danaus29 said:


> I didn't think the bumper was a spammer. I report advertising posts.


In this case I think you're right. It was a well-meaning real person whose input might have had a chance of being helpful, had it been 11 years earlier. The obvious soon-to-be spammers are the posts that are either pointless or complete nonsense, from brand-new users, and/or often obviously not native English speakers.


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