# How can I determine if a wall is "load bearing" or not?



## pheasantplucker (Feb 20, 2007)

My wife wants me to do some remodeling. I'm fairly handy when it comes to putting down new floors, wiring, etc. At first she wanted me to take out completely a wall that runs between the kitchen and a bedroom we currently use for the computer. There is no wall directly above the wall I'm talking about. Now, as an alternative, I think I've convinced her that a big set of French doors might also be something to consider, as you could still "close it off" if you wanted a quieter setting. We want to expand our kitchen, and I think this would be good. Any ideas about determining if this wall is load bearing or not? I'm still going to have to move some electrical fixtures and a heating duct whether I remove the wall or install French doors. Can a load bearing wall "take" French doors, as long as I put a double header on top? Any advise would be appreciated.


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

How can you determine if it's load bearing ?

You KNOW the first answer that screams to be said, right ?  ( take it out and see.....)

Kidding aside, you'd need to describe the house a lot more....2nd floor ? Type of roof ( rafter w/ceiling joist, or truss ), which direction the roof runs in relationship to the wall, and of course, pic would save a lot of words.

Yes, with the proper header, you can put a set of doors in a load bearing wall....with the proper header.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

*Generally * speaking, a load bearing wall will run parallel to the longest outside walls.

But like Andy said, there are a LOT of variables.

If it's a one story house, go in the attic and look at the top of the wall.

If there are no joists sitting on it, it's not load bearing


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## tinknal (May 21, 2004)

The first place I would look is below the wall. If the wall is not supported by a wall, header, or beam from below then it is not load bearing.


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## Ray (Dec 5, 2002)

When I was younger I worked home construction for about 8 years, and learned that Truss roofs are supposed to bear all the weight. If you have conventional rafters then you need a support of some kind, wall. post and beam. So determine if you have a truss rafters in your attic. just get online and do a google image search for truss rafters. best wishes, ray


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## pheasantplucker (Feb 20, 2007)

Thanks for the good advice and suggestions so far...btw, this is a wall on the first floor. Gable roof with several dormers. It's a one and a half cape cod house, and this particular wall is on the interior not an exterior wall. Wall runs parallel to floor joists underneath and those joists sit atop two I beams (perpendicular).


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> Wall runs parallel to floor joists underneath


If it's a load bearing wall, it *"should"* have a double joist directly underneath


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

You can use a stud sensor to get an idea where and how the second story joists are running. Even if it is a load bearing wall it is possible to remove it and replace (at the same time) it with a post and beam system. Might not be the best first home improvement project for the inexperienced but you could hire that out and do the finish work.


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## zant (Dec 1, 2005)

I took out a 12' section of my bdrm wall(load)to double size of bdrm.Made a load bearing beam with 2-12',2x6 with a 5/8 plywood center......probably stronger than rest of house....Good luck and have fun,I've been remodeling off and on for 4 mnths-almost done....


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## pheasantplucker (Feb 20, 2007)

got any before, during and after photos you'd care to share, zant?


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