# Screw in the valley or screw in the ridge top?



## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

We are building a shed roof over the outdoor kitchen. It is about 23 feet side to side and 14 feet front to back. We will be using roof tin that is 14 feet 1 inch long. We want to use screws and not nails.

The man we ordered the tin from said to put screws in the valley? But, a neighbor said to screw in the ridge top?

I know I have seen a similar discussion here before but - can someone tell me: Do you screw the screw into the ridge piece OR screw it into the valley part?

The screws will come with a washer too.

Thank you.


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## MO_cows (Aug 14, 2010)

Screws in the valley, plus one in the ridge where the sheets overlap to lock them together.


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## IMFoghorn (Jan 28, 2012)

I've put up several metal buildings for commercial use. The manufacturers recommend screws in the valley(3 per perling) and shorter screws spaced 18 to 24 inches(depends on the manufacturer) on the ridges. The idea being that the longer screws in the valley hold the sheet down and the shorter screws on the ridges keep the wind from picking up the sheet.

I think a lot of folks on the farm would put 3 screws in the valley. They usually lay the sheets so the over lap is facing away from the prevailing wind and put one of the screws next to the lap. Be careful not to over tighten the screw and twist the rubber washer out from under the screw head.

JMO
Doug


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## where I want to (Oct 28, 2008)

Did one on a shed and screwed in the valley- had leaks all over the place. 
If I was going to do it again, I would get the manufacturers instructions. There may be more to it that just the location.


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## ihuntgsps (Mar 10, 2008)

old school method was in the ridge. new method is in the flat(valley)
use good quality neoprene washer self tapping screw. the reason to go in the valley vs ridge is due to the expansion and contraction difference between metal and wood. over time the ones in the ridge get loose.
mayn people use a double sided tape (strong as heck believe it or not) to hold the lap joint together


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## cast iron (Oct 4, 2004)

MO_cows said:


> Screws in the valley, plus one in the ridge where the sheets overlap to lock them together.


This is what I do as well. So far it's worked well on the various shops and outbuildings we have built.


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## elkhound (May 30, 2006)

meanwhile....please open a photobucket account...load pictures there..then at bottom of each picture copy and paste the ....line that way we can see the pictures here.

p.s. valley


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## DavidUnderwood (Jul 5, 2007)

We been putting screwed metal roofs on houses and
farm and commercial buildings for 30 years now. First
time I talked to a mfg rep I was told to screw on the
flats. Not on the hump. After doing it that way all that
time it hasn't changed. Screw the flats, not the humps.
Not any of the humps. Lap the metal small side on top
of the larger side. Do not put strips under the metal
when going over an existing roof. And NEVER put a
metal roof on treated lumber.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Here is what it looks like so far. We have to nail the boards up - the slats that the tin will get screwed into. We only have one up so far. 

The man at the store said we need to use a longer screw. One that is so long that it comes through the board. We did not want the tip end of the screw to show and so he said we can use 1 inch screws for most of the tin. However in some areas we can use a longer screw and screw it through both boards - though both the slat board and into the treated rafter boards.


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## Soupmaker (Apr 28, 2012)

ALWAYS!!!!! Screws in the flat(valley).

Take a peice of scrap steel and put a screw in the ridge. Try to get it tight and tell what you really got.


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## Soupmaker (Apr 28, 2012)

MO_cows said:


> Screws in the valley, plus one in the ridge where the sheets overlap to lock them together.


That isn't neceasry if the steel is installed correctly and can be troublesome for leeks. And it looks like crap.


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## Soupmaker (Apr 28, 2012)

meanwhile said:


> Here is what it looks like so far. We have to nail the boards up - the slats that the tin will get screwed into. We only have one up so far.
> 
> The man at the store said we need to use a longer screw. One that is so long that it comes through the board. We did not want the tip end of the screw to show and so he said we can use 1 inch screws for most of the tin. However in some areas we can use a longer screw and screw it through both boards - though both the slat board and into the treated rafter boards.


1" of screw is plenty. No need for it to hit the rafter as well. You really don't want them in treated lumber anyway.


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## elkhound (May 30, 2006)

i wish i coulda gotten down for the mushroom thing...it would been great.


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## fordy (Sep 13, 2003)

meanwhile said:


> We are building a shed roof over the outdoor kitchen. It is about 23 feet side to side and 14 feet front to back. We will be using roof tin that is 14 feet 1 inch long. We want to use screws and not nails.
> 
> The man we ordered the tin from said to put screws in the valley? But, a neighbor said to screw in the ridge top?
> 
> ...


..............Screws in the ridge , when screwed in too tight , can depress or warp the ridge and create possible leaks , If they are to long and are screwed into the wood or metal lathe supporting the metal roof ! , fordy


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## unioncreek (Jun 18, 2002)

Never screw on the ridge, most of the time you will get a crease and this is where it will leak. Also put down mastic where the panels overlap and make sure the lap is with the predominant wind directions. The only place that you screw into the ridge is when installing the ridge cap.

Bob


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## joseph97297 (Nov 20, 2007)

I screw in the flats, and try to get up every 2-3 years to check the screws for bad washers or loose.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Would we need to mastic even in a rustic outdoor building? This is only to keep most of the rain off the Wood Ovens. The building is an outdoor kitchen. There will be two wood ovens in the back and two wood cook tops.

It won't matter that rain will blow in. A little bit will not hurt anything.


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## SteveD(TX) (May 14, 2002)

Never in the valley - too many leaks. Always on the ridge with self-sealing screws.


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## DavidUnderwood (Jul 5, 2007)

You can't tighten a screw on a hump.
Any place a long screw gets in your way,
just hit it like you mean to bend it over.
They will snap off.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

elkhound - there are two more mushroom events. Sept. 8 and 9. Look at the boys's Facebook page for details. 

Thanks everyone. We are putting the wood slats up and the delivery man just said tin won't get here till Monday late or Tuesday. So, we have the weekend to ponder it. 

Thanks for all the advice. We appreciate it.


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## MO_cows (Aug 14, 2010)

Soupmaker said:


> That isn't neceasry if the steel is installed correctly and can be troublesome for leeks. And it looks like crap.


Thank you for informing me that our house, garage, barn and several other outbuildings all look like crap.

Different "profiles" of corrugation have different properties. Some lock together better than others. Some places can get gusts of wind from all 4 directions, too. Long as you don't cinch it down too hard and dent the metal, a screw with rubber washer is just fine on a ridge.


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## Soupmaker (Apr 28, 2012)

MO_cows said:


> Thank you for informing me that our house, garage, barn and several other outbuildings all look like crap.
> 
> Different "profiles" of corrugation have different properties. Some lock together better than others. Some places can get gusts of wind from all 4 directions, too. Long as you don't cinch it down too hard and dent the metal, a screw with rubber washer is just fine on a ridge.


If you get it tight it'll leak. If you don't get it tight it'll leak. Lose lose. properly installed wind is not an issue form any direction.

So what profile do you have that is so different?


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## PD-Riverman (May 24, 2007)

I am from the old school, built a shed 2 months ago, a big tractor shed a few years ago, a bigger shed some years before that, helped build Many tobacco barns 40 years ago and if I was going to build a shed tomorrow with 5 V Tin like all these other buildings I would get some tin nails and nail on top of the upside V like I always have. Have no leaks in the buildings I got done like this on my farm. Now this new tin like a lot of homes are using----Never Used it. Probably would have to change my ways----LOL.


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## lonelytree (Feb 28, 2008)

I use standing seam metal roofing. No screws exposed. No washers to change out exect on the bottom. No screws for the snow or ice to grab ahold of and tear the metal.


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## OkieDavid (Jan 15, 2007)

I've always used self tapping screws with neoprene washers. Valleys only. I would also add that if you haven't installed much metal roofing, you should consider installing a temporary ledger board from scrap lumber on the dowhill side. Decide how much of an overhang you want and install the ledger to that distance. Makes keeping the sheets flush and overhangs even. Also saves a ton of time as it holds your work for you.


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## JohnP (Sep 1, 2010)

I like screws on the high spots throughout the field and screws in the low spots under the ridge cap and down at the eaves past the wall line. Ridge cap will prevent leaks in the top end screws and bottom end screws are not going to leak inside the building.

End screws first(top & bottom), then overlaps, then the rest and you won't get sheets spreading in width.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Okie David: We are so already out of "square" that it is funny. The whole thing is "whap-sided"! The locust posts are different sizes and then we got the post holes out of whack! So = it is what it is. 

The shed roof is for an outdoor Kitchen which will have two wood Ovens (one a dry stack with Clay skin and the 2nd a true Cob Oven) and then two designs of Guatemalan Estufas (cook stops) - so it will be OK that it is not completely straight. We will like it anyway. 

The tin arrives Mon. night or Tuesday morning. Then we will see what happens next. Thanks everyone.


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## Soupmaker (Apr 28, 2012)

meanwhile said:


> Okie David: We are so already out of "square" that it is funny. The whole thing is "whap-sided"! The locust posts are different sizes and then we got the post holes out of whack! So = it is what it is.
> 
> The shed roof is for an outdoor Kitchen which will have two wood Ovens (one a dry stack with Clay skin and the 2nd a true Cob Oven) and then two designs of Guatemalan Estufas (cook stops) - so it will be OK that it is not completely straight. We will like it anyway.
> 
> The tin arrives Mon. night or Tuesday morning. Then we will see what happens next. Thanks everyone.


I would suggest fastening the _steel_ the way the installation instructions say to.


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## DaleK (Sep 23, 2004)

I suspect in NC flats would work fine. Here in the frozen north, the manufacturers I've used all recommend screwing the flats on walls and ridges on roofs. We get roof ice buildup in the flats a lot more than on the ridges and that tends to take the seals off faster if the screws are in the flats.


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## MichaelK! (Oct 22, 2010)

With my steel roofing the manufacturer's instructions said valleys, but I personally said no way. Bought extra-long washered roofing screws and installed on the peaks anyway.

Haven't had a single problem in 6 years now. I used roofing tar to seal the seams between sheets.


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## where I want to (Oct 28, 2008)

It is it's old fashioned corregated metal, there is a wiggle board to use. If it'a a manufactured roof, then I'd follow the instructions. 
The real difference I think would be that no part of the old fashioned corregated sheet is flat- the valley curves and the ridge curves. So if you nail in the valley, the rubber washer on the nail can't seat equally on the curved surface.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

We have the rafters up and the slat pieces and the tin arrives Mon. or Tuesday. Actually - this may sound bad but I really do not know what it looks like. We asked a friend to help order it since he got a discount and so it will be cheap and silver and is supposed to just be "old fashioned plain roofing tin." I will see it next week! 

Thanks everyone.


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## joseph97297 (Nov 20, 2007)

Yes, thank you. The missus asked what I was typing when I responded and when I told her she asked if I was going to pressure wash the roof this year (do it every two years).

So guess what my weekend plans are? On the plus side, got started today and knocked off a lot of it. 

Memo to self: Never let wife pick 'Almond" color metal when under an oak tree and a pecan tree....... go with "Dirt: mixture of black and dark brown"


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## salmonslayer (Jan 4, 2009)

where I want to said:


> It is it's old fashioned corregated metal, there is a wiggle board to use. If it'a a manufactured roof, then I'd follow the instructions.
> The real difference I think would be that no part of the old fashioned corregated sheet is flat- the valley curves and the ridge curves. So if you nail in the valley, the rubber washer on the nail can't seat equally on the curved surface.


 This is pretty much spot on. The old way was to fasten on the peaks and they had ring shank nails back then but with current siding and roofing you fasten in the valleys with the barn tin washered screws. I find it kind of humorous that folks would worry about leaks if you fastened in the valleys but they think fastening on the peaks wouldnt leak. Either way can leak and either way can work its just a lot easier to do it correctly in the valleys since you can pull the metal tight.


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## HeelSpur (May 7, 2011)

Ridgetop, the breeze will keep you cool.


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## lazyBum (Feb 27, 2012)

Dad and I have always fastened through the ridges. We've never had any problems with leaks. It's a little harder to do than the valleys. Ping the ridge with the edge of the hammer head to make a flat spot. Then try to drive the nail through without it flying away and smashing your fingers. Drive it slow just until the washer is compressed.


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## Soupmaker (Apr 28, 2012)

lazyBum said:


> Dad and I have always fastened through the ridges. We've never had any problems with leaks. It's a little harder to do than the valleys. Ping the ridge with the edge of the hammer head to make a flat spot. Then try to drive the nail through without it flying away and smashing your fingers. Drive it slow just until the washer is compressed.


He ain't asking where to NAIL it.


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## lazyBum (Feb 27, 2012)

Soupmaker said:


> He ain't asking where to NAIL it.


Pay no attention to my previous post everybody. It contains no useful information because we use nails. This post is probably useless too, so don't read it either.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

I just installed some new Americana panels and just for kicks I read the instructions. Same as always screws in the ridge for roofing in the valley for siding applications


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## Lazy J (Jan 2, 2008)

I am surprised no one had any "adult comments" about the title of this thread. I live in flat land so we don't have to choose.............


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

We screwed our shed roof in the valley (looks very similar to yours - low pitch) and no leaks at all...except for where the tin has rusted through.


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## rockhound (Sep 25, 2009)

LazyJ~ I been biting my tongue, 'cause I've done both, don't see any real difference, lol.


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## HeelSpur (May 7, 2011)

HeelSpur said:


> Ridgetop, the breeze will keep you cool.


Sure glad no one caught on :happy2:


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

HAHAHA! I almost choked I laughed so hard! Good one above from HeelSpur! Took me a minute to "get" it but funny one! I had not thought about that angle but funny one! 

OK - now I need some coffee! Funny. Good start to the morning!


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## ||Downhome|| (Jan 12, 2009)

Ya I keep seeing the title and have to restrain myself from making a funny...


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

It is funny now that I look at it after reading the funny comments. I think everyone knows it means the tin roof though. After all, it is the Homesteading section. 

Now...if that title were to appear in the General Chat area, then it would probably mean something else.


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