# Bee hive?



## ThePigeonKid (Mar 19, 2011)

Are these good hives?

http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/8-Frames-Unassembled-Standard-Hive/productinfo/8272/

http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/8-Frame-Unassembled-Hive/productinfo/8271/


----------



## jeremynj (Jun 29, 2011)

I suggest building your own hives if this is just going to be a hobby. My dad has a lot of wood working equipment and know how so I printed plans and he helped me do the difficult things like dado'ing the corners. I use a lot of scrap wood to make some parts so it takes more time/effort but it is fun.

This is only my first year but the more I learn about bees on a hobby level, the more it seems like you can make a beehive out of anything.


----------



## tom j (Apr 3, 2009)

Some do not own the power saw and tools to build them , or know how to make things from wood , some are allergic to wood ,or do not have a place to work with it .. and most would rather buy then mess around trying to build ..
the only place I have gotten hives from is mann lake ,,


----------



## Sunmo (Dec 29, 2004)

I think these hives are fine to start with. Before you invest a lot of money on equipment, I'd join a local Bee Keepers Club. There may be someone that has equipment to sell or will help you make your own. Most beekeepers have 10 frame hives. 8 frame hives are lighter, but are also less popular. Join a bee club and listen to the old guys talk about their experience, before you invest a lot of time and money. 

Just remember: If you put two beekeepers in a room and ask them 1 question, you'll get at least three answers.


----------



## BjornBee (Jan 17, 2011)

Or........ DON"T listen to the old gys at the club.  Many times, clubs with the more vocal and older beekeepers in charge, just sell you on the standard chemical treatment ideology, what they have done for the last 30 years, and what they know. Which is very limited in alternative beekeeping (TBH, Warre, natural beekeeping, SBB, and anything beyond knowledge of getting packages, and dumping in standard treatments.)

I'd stick to asking folks on various bee forums, and other online sources. While they have their faults, I also know that going to many associations and taking the advice of the "old beekeeper" may not be the best approach either.


----------



## BjornBee (Jan 17, 2011)

And yes...Brushy Mountain has some very good quality equipment if are buying and not building your own.

And I would consider 8 frame equipment.


----------



## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Yes Bushy mountian hive bodies are good. but so are *Mannlake,com *as well as *w.t.kelleys.com *stuff.
Buy what you wish rather than what a few try to tell you you should get. I have tried the 8 frame hives and they are now 8 frame nucs as I found that the weight difference for me didn't make a big deal because I normall do not move deep hives full of honey and bees, they are for the most part perment fixtures. When ever I do need to move full 10 frame deeps I employe the wife and a hive carrier. So simple and weight isn't a factor.
I tried the 3 medium boxes too. What a royal pain in the KISTER I found them to be when inspecting a hive and wanting to see the queen. 30 frames to move out of the boxes and finding a place to put them while looking for that queen.


 Al


----------



## tom j (Apr 3, 2009)

when you employe the wife ,, how much do you pay her ??? and if you used 3 8 frame boxes you would only have 24 frames to move and find a place for when looking for the queen . but I think I will stick with my 10 frame deeps ,, they have worked for me for 5 years ,, hate changing things in mid stream ..


----------



## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

She gets paid the same amount as when she is just being the boss, president of the company, treasurer, record keeper. Being the grunt I only get the scraps left over.










 Al


----------



## BjornBee (Jan 17, 2011)

Moving all 30 frames out of the boxes and having to find a place for them all?

I think there are several better ways to do this.  I could not imagine removing all 30 frames from three boxes, let alone using that as an excuse to bash, push, or justify some way of doing something.

Sheesh! Here I thought you had kept bees for years. I don't know any beekeeper who does that beyond the first time or two as a new beekeeper, then quickly going to a better method after someone mentions it. Holy Crap! Go back to three mediums, and I can explain how to inspect 30 frames without moving every frame out of the box. No wonder you gave up on mediums. Now you only have to remove all 20 deep frames.


----------



## idigbeets (Sep 3, 2011)

Wouldn't you just remove every other frame to look for the queen?


----------



## BjornBee (Jan 17, 2011)

You separate the three (or two) boxes. (If you don't and inspect the top box then remove, all your doing is pushing the bees (and queen) lower and lower, and normally will not find the queen till you get to the last bottom box as she keep moving away from the sunlight. This does not alwats happen, as sometimes the queen just keeps laying on a comb regardless of what you do. But sometimes they move very fast to the lower box. So isolate each box. (Normally one brood box stays on the hive bottom and one sits on the top on the ground next to the hive.

Then slide out one end frame. Sit it aside after inspecting. Now take out the second frame, inspect and place back in where the first frame sat. Take out the third frame, inspect, then put it back in position number two. Repeat all across the frames of the box. You only have one frame removed for each box inspecting, and this end frame is usually a honey frame with little brood or bees on it, making missing the queen minimal. Once the queen is found, you take your hive tool and slide the frames (They are already against each other so smashing bees does not happen) back across into original positions and place the first frame removed, in it's original position. Always replace comb back in the same position after inspections. The comb is never perfect and this keeps bees frame getting crushed, rolled, etc.

Remember, unless you have specific reason to find the queen (splitting, requeening, AHB checking, etc.), once you find eggs and larvae, your being told about as much as most beekeepers want to know. That the queen is laying, brood is being raise, and the inspection for many comes to an end at that time. So don't have the time consuming and sometimes damaging obsession of finding the queen each and every time.You can verify she is there long before you actually see her. Most information gathered from any inspection involves everything but seeing the queen. But for many, the only inspection criteria they have every Saturday morning is finding the queen. Which makes no sense at all, although it is always interesting and fun to see her.

I get many phone calls from beginners who state they can not find the queen. And upon asking what the hive looked like, (brood, eggs, larvae, swarm cells. etc.) they have no clue. But their primary concern is always seeing the queen, and not being concerned with the other 99% of information about the hive they should be looking for.

Hope this helps.


----------



## pheasantplucker (Feb 20, 2007)

I disagree with the advice to "build your own". If you are just beginning then buy premade boxes and frames from a company such as Brushy mountain or Kelly's. The person is interested in bees, not woodworking. If you are already an experienced woodworker, and have the table saw, etc. then yes, it would be a good idea, however tiny differences in the width of gaps makes a huge difference and if you're not fairly accomplished at building these boxes, your attention will be absorbed by the construction, you will lose focus and become frustrated. Good luck


----------



## BjornBee (Jan 17, 2011)

Who needs to disagree? This is a forum. A place to put ALL option on the table. That way the readers can pick and choose what they have based on time, money, skill, and energy needed to apply. Each post is one person's opinion based on what they do. Only when there is an agenda or ideology does this open forum outline get skewed.

When I got started, I ran out and bought the first couple kits, till someone told me how easy some of the equipment is to make, especially since I had all the equipment anyways. I buy some things, and build other things.

Not sure how you conclude that the pigeonkid is not interested in building. He asked a simple question. And hopefully the replies, regardless of where the conversation goes, is informative for all that read these posts. Certainly the replies help more than the original poster.


----------



## mare (Aug 31, 2006)

i am looking forward to making my own hive boxes--am just getting started in wood working and it is something i need but there will still be things i will buy too. i have a question--do cedar boxes keep the mites and wax moths out of the hives? not so sure i am going to run out and buy cedar (i need alot of practice before i spend that kinda money) but am curious.


----------



## johng (Feb 14, 2009)

Mare no cedar hives will do nothing to help with mites or moths. The only advantage I know of for cedar is the boxes may last longer in the weather.


----------



## tom j (Apr 3, 2009)

will ceder help with mites or moths if used in the smoker ???????


----------



## ThePigeonKid (Mar 19, 2011)

Thanks for your posts, now could someone explain to me the difference between this: http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/8-Frames-Unassembled-Standard-Hive/productinfo/8272/ and this:http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/8-Frame-Medium-Unassembled-Hive/productinfo/8242/


----------



## AverageJo (Sep 24, 2010)

The 8272 is a single deep hive body whereas the 8242 is 2 smaller boxes. Individual preference as to which you choose. Some use the smaller boxes throughout their hive so they can swap out frames between hive body and honey super.


----------



## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Cedar boxes will be a bit lighter in weight to.
Don't know about cedar chips in the smoker. Several years ago there was an articile in American Bee Journal that Sumac helped in the controll of mites a little bit.

My back yard winter hive set up. Wind block to the north and west, top covers down and pulled totaly to the rear to close off the upper entrance. Feeder surround boxes setting beside the hives ready for spring feeding.










Two in the front yard. Wild dog wood & woods wind block and snow to insulate them.










The intercover. Has the oblong hole in the center.



















A summer top entrance in the intercover(far left.).










 Al


----------



## tom j (Apr 3, 2009)

one is a med and one is a deep ,, you need 3 med to have the same size hive as 2 deep ,, one use's 6 1/4 deep frame and the deep use's 9 1/8 deep frames ( from top to bottom ) so you need 3 6 1/4 frames for the same area as 2 of the 9 1/8 frames


----------



## DownHome (Jan 20, 2006)

We bought our first hives from Brushy....they have held up great!


----------



## John Carter (Oct 6, 2004)

might want to check with your loal farm supply or seed and garden center.
Thats where I get all my bee supplies. Horn seed here In OKC.


----------



## mare (Aug 31, 2006)

53convert said:


> might want to check with your loal farm supply or seed and garden center.
> Thats where I get all my bee supplies. Horn seed here In OKC.


thats nice---i wished they did that here. but then again its like christmas all over when the boxes start showing up


----------



## tom j (Apr 3, 2009)

yep ,,,, Christmas ,,, small wrapped box ,,,, Large number on charge card.. I like popping balloon's... I'm sorry Mare ,, am I being mean to you ??? I just had to put in this come back ,,,


----------

