# small tractor for small areage on a budget



## Farm 36 (Mar 21, 2009)

I am looking for small tractor for mowing and dragging pasture . I have five acres and rotional graze . I am looking for 4 wheel because of the mud and snow . Have been looking at kubota the older models with a belly mower . I have been looking at the old ford or massy but the weight and size looks to be bigger than I want .Can anyone give advice on on the Kubota or another utility tractor that might work . Finding parts for the tractor is important as it will need to run for a long time .I cann't afford a newer tractor because of price and but the big thing is fixing it .


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## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

do you want it just for mowing and dragging or do you want it for more?
If all you want to do is clip your pasture and flatten the clods you shouldn't be worried about mud and snow. 
If you want it to plow or blow the driveway you may want a decent sized machine to deal with the sometimes heavy snows in WI.
I don't recommend old Fords to anyone if there is an N in the model number.


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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

Farm 36 said:


> I am looking for small tractor for mowing and dragging pasture . I have five acres and rotional graze . I am looking for 4 wheel because of the mud and snow . Have been looking at kubota the older models with a belly mower . I have been looking at the old ford or massy but the weight and size looks to be bigger than I want .Can anyone give advice on on the Kubota or another utility tractor that might work . Finding parts for the tractor is important as it will need to run for a long time .I cann't afford a newer tractor because of price and but the big thing is fixing it .


I have had a Kobota B 7100 with 4 wheel drive. They are good little tractors. How close are the dealers to you? The parts are expensive that is why I now one another tractor. My close dealer is about 40 miles away and doesn't have the most parts but can order them overnight. Any tractor brands have about the same size and HP so as far as I am concerned they are about the same reliably. Go to any dealer and see if they repair the tractors and have parts and make your selection. You don't want a utility tractor you want a subcompact. I would start by saying have a limit on what you are going to pay for one and keep to it. You can buy a good tractor for about $8,000 or less. You will find that one just large enough is not what you want but one that is just a little bigger is better than having one that is just big enough. I now have a Massey Ferguson and that is what I realty want and the dealer is close enough (20 miles) and has parts. You can do more with a bigger tractor.


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## Bret4207 (May 31, 2008)

You will find larger tractors (those above say, 35 hp) tend to go cheaper than the the cutsie 20-30 hp CUT (compact utility tractors). An older tractor like a 600 Ford, 550 Oliver or D-15 Allis will do all you want and then some. You can figure paying between $1500 and 3500.00 for something like that with decent tires and in runnable condition.

My opinion will unpopular with the sub-urban commandos that (justifiably) adore their $20K+++ CUT. The money spent on those status symbols would be far better spent on buildings and improving your land than on shiny, new toys.


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## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

a 550 Ollie would be a nice machine....


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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

I payed $7,000 for a Massey Ferguson 150 (50 hp) and the person thought it was too much. The larger you go on the tractors the less they are asking for them up to a certain point. Look at anything up to 50 hp and compare prices. Find a dealer near you and try to get one that they will work on.


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## Farm 36 (Mar 21, 2009)

I am looking to stay around the 25 hp or less . Last year my big expense was a wheel barrow tire . In a couple year my lawn mower will wear out from the pasture .


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## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

Tractorhouse has over 700 Kubotas under 40 HP listed but not one in WI for 2500 or less.
this is what they are showing for under 2500 in WI.
http://www.tractorhouse.com/list/li...THOSpecs=1&ST=Wisconsin&SO=2&btnSearch=Search

I'd recommend the WD with the loader even if it needs an exhaust manifold.

They aren't the total listing of everything available but are usually a pretty good inicator.

Keep your money handy and attend nearby farm or estate auctions sometimes deals can be had there.

Another place to look is Yesterdays Tractors
http://www.tractorshed.com/cgi-bin/photoads/classifieds.cgi
They have a Farmall M listed for 1250 which is a very good price.

If you're up north there is Northwoods T and A out of Gleason.
http://northwoodsta.com/id52.html


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## silverbackMP (Dec 4, 2005)

Something else to think about. I have Massey 65 that I'm into for about 15G at this point. Older isn't necessarily better to save $. Paid $3000 for "yard tree" rebuilt tactor with a decent paint job and brand new tires at a junk farm auction (should have known better). Decided I wanted a loader--more $ and a 1000 mile trip to pick one up I was told would work (not exactly a bolt on). More $ for custom fabrication to get the loader mounted (they did a good job--better than factory). Figured out the crank and bearing were wearing into the block. Many more dollars for a brand new remanufactured perkins (my dealership did a heck of job for the price).

However, I do have a tractor that will probably now outlast me and my kids.


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## plowjockey (Aug 18, 2008)

silverbackMP said:


> Something else to think about. I have Massey 65 that I'm into for about 15G at this point. Older isn't necessarily better to save $. Paid $3000 for "yard tree" rebuilt tactor with a decent paint job and brand new tires at a junk farm auction (should have known better). Decided I wanted a loader--more $ and a 1000 mile trip to pick one up I was told would work (not exactly a bolt on). More $ for custom fabrication to get the loader mounted (they did a good job--better than factory). Figured out the crank and bearing were wearing into the block. Many more dollars for a brand new remanufactured perkins (my dealership did a heck of job for the price).
> 
> However, I do have a tractor that will probably now outlast me and my kids.


Good points.

Some tractors, especially ones from around the 70's, are "modern" tractor models, but bacome obsolete quickly and parts can be expensive and very hard to find. You might sink 1/2 the cost of the tractor into a new clutch or ring job, unless you DIY.

If you have the money, IMO, sink it into a newer subcompact, with low hours. The way things are going, you can probably use it for many years and sell it, for nearly as much as you paid for it.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> I am looking to stay around the 25 hp or less


That's not much tractor if you want to do any real work.

I used a small Kubota for a while , with a front end loader, and more than half a bucket full of dirt would stand it on it's nose.

Also, the tires were so narrow it would dig itself into the ground if you put too much weight on it

It would have been *worthless* in snow or mud


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## Bret4207 (May 31, 2008)

I'm with Bearfoot. You're talking what basically amounts to a very expensive toy, an overgrown lawn mower. Do yourself a favor and get a real tractor. 4wd is nice, but very expensive and you'll just get stuck deeper and farther into the bog hole. 

If you can't afford to fix things then how will you be able to afford to fix the 4 wd Kubota ($$$$) when you break it, and you will break it eventually. For mowing and dragging you don't need 4wd, you need good tires of chains and adequate HP and weight to do the job. An older utility tractor of 35-45 hp with a simple gas engine and 3pt will do all you want. If you HAVE to have a loader then make sure it has power sterring.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

If you can fabricate and do major repairs yourself, then the world is your oyster and probably can get by with anything.

If however you hire all your mechanic work, stick to what is available locally that has parts available and a local mechanic that works on it.

4wd can make all the difference on a modern lightweight as to usefulness. Not only gives more traction but more weight. BUT, 4wd can be expensive to hire worked on. Diesels are high priced to work on. But then so are gas engines, if it says tractor on it, then parts suddenly become worth multiples of what same part would cost for an old carb car.

I am not a Ford "N" fan but parts are easy to find and they are relatively cheap far as tractors go. Its a light duty tractor and fits your horsepower goals. No 4wd.


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

And as HJ said, (If your not a machanic), then buying a Ford N series will make u one, if u keep it.

As to 20 something hps not being worth much. Ive been farming with my CC Case for over 40 yrs, My H Farmall works good also, no complaints. COURSE, I know, that these tractors put out over 20hp BEYOND the hp needed to carry their weight. The light modern ones do also, BUT, If you dont have that weight, and the hp extra to move it, your not going to get to do much.


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## Bret4207 (May 31, 2008)

Bill, 20 hp measured in 1939 or 1949 isn't the same as 20 hp measured today. Cripes, a 5 hp Briggs of 1965 would be at least 12 "developed" hp today. And the weight is a big factor too. Another huge difference is those 38" tires on the old H and the 20's or 24's on the little modern rig. Jezze, my 30 hp Cockshutt 30 will out pull my 45 hp Ford 800 until I put ring chains on. Taller tires grab differently.


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## silverbackMP (Dec 4, 2005)

Nother suggestion--I've seen "newer" low hour MF MF235s, 250s, 265s, and 275s going for decent prices. These are decent sized tractors but not overly huge.

In fact, I want a 235 or 250 with turf tires to complement my MF65. Want something I can pull my 8' fail without tearing up pasture as badly.


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## PhilJohnson (Dec 24, 2006)

Farm 36 said:


> I am looking to stay around the 25 hp or less . Last year my big expense was a wheel barrow tire . In a couple year my lawn mower will wear out from the pasture .












That is a 1940s era Case VAC. When I bought it the tractor had sat outside in the weather for the past 4 years before I got it without being ran. I put some gas in it and haven't looked back. My biggest expense to date (besides gas) was changing the oil once. I paid 700 bucks for the tractor and had a disc and drag thrown in with it. I use it to plow my two small fields, drag old cars around, knock down the weeds in the back. 

It may not be as nice as a Kabota but I can get parts for it at the local autoparts store and repair it myself. I can't imagine you could get anything cheaper than my Case and have it still run.


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## Bret4207 (May 31, 2008)

Phil, got 2 VAC's and a VAI. Great tractors.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> I payed $7,000 for a Massey Ferguson 150 (50 hp) and the person *thought it was too much.*


I'd have to agree with them

I bought a MF-175 (63 HP Perkins Diesel) for $5000, and got a 9 ft disk, a 7 tine chisel plow, a Herd Cyclone fertilizer spreader and boom pole with it.

And then the guy brought it all to my house at no charge


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## WisJim (Jan 14, 2004)

I have a Ford 9N that I got for $800 at an auction, spent a few hundred overhauling the engine, and have used it for 15 years or so for mowing and hauling a trailer for firewood around the place. Other than the pedal arrangement for clutch and brakes, I think it is a fine piece of machinery and needs minimal maintenance and repairs. They go for $1500 to $2000 around here, it seems.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Oh there are a lot of really good old tractors for that job that beats those orange jap tractors hands down.

Some have been mentioned like the 55 & 550 ollie, the Allis D15, I'll add the D17 but say stay away from the D14 which is under tired.
the Moline 335 and 445 and some of the Jet stars are very nice. 
IH has the 300 and 350 Utitlys that worth there weight in gold and still hold good value.
Case and David browns of the 530 to 995 series are treasures too.
All like that Case VAC which is close to 50 years old and parts can be bought at the local auto parts storessimple to work on.
Wash my mouth out with soap for saying even those over priced green and yellow John Deers in the 520 to 730's are twice the tractor of the orange things.

I wonder where those orange things will be even 25 years from now? They are cheap.

 Al


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

I'm in the camp of suggesting an old tractor. 

A Farmall Cub or similar is what I would look at if I were buying for mowing. You could also consider a Farmall A, C or H.

Parts are cheap and plentiful. Need help figuring out how to fix a Farmall? There are tons of forums where people can help.

The same goes for Allis Chalmers. A WD, WD-45, B, C, or CA, just to name a few.

I think that the other suggestions for older Case tractors are dead on, if you can find one in your area.

Our area is 80% Farmall, and the rest seems to be Allis Chalmers, at least on the older stuff. The new stuff is totally a different story...it is all Deere.

Again, parts are cheap, and remember, ebay is your friend. Those tractors are easy to work on. 

Make sure you test the tractor that you buy under load, and not just sitting there idling.


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## woodsy (Oct 13, 2008)

I'm in agreement of the old used tractors as well.
For $1500.00 i bought a 51' JD M some 20 years ago, never been in the shop or had anything i couldn't fix. These run about 2500 in running condition now.
Its been used hard too, like it was meant for, log/firewood dragging, snowplowing long driveway, land plowing and harrowing , the basic stuff.
Sure a 4X4 and bucket would be nice but at what cost...
No prob finding parts for most of these tough ol tractors.


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## FarmboyBill (Aug 19, 2005)

Thats what I was trying to say, that the older tractors with say 25hp are way powerful than todays tractors that say 25hp

STAY AWAY FROM CUB FARMALLS. Ive had 2, and there alright till they go bad, then I couldnt work on them. Gotta overhaul or replace the pulley wheel attachment in back now. Wont have another one. Havnt heard anything about AC B or Cs. And I know that Case Vac type tractors are good, around 22hp. As and B Farmalls are good, but no lift other than pnumatic, and almost all of those have quit working and been taken off. C IHC is fine also. B JD, or H JD.


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## Txrider (Jun 25, 2010)

An old Farmall C here... Got it free.

Have about $1000 in it now adding a 3pt hitch and rebuilding the engine after 20 years of my use. Both hydraulic lifts work fine still..

I like the old stuff, made to last.


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## Bret4207 (May 31, 2008)

The Cubs are dandy little tractors for what they were intended for. I'm not sure why you can't work on them Bill. What do you mean exactly?

The A, B, and C Farmalls can be retro fitted with hydraulics and a3 pt. Not a perfect set up, but okay. The old exhaust lift was an iffy proposition from the start. 

Ya got to remember a lot of the tractors were built when "Armstrong" was the only lift system around!


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## CIW (Oct 2, 2007)

Many find that a set of chains and fluid in the tires on a rear drive tractor to be more than adequete for getting around in the mud and snow. 
Features like larger tires and a wide front end are also good.
There is alot of money put out for the luxury of having a front end assist tractor. Many of these hobby tractors have undersized tires, which cause you to sink quicker, and the hydraulics are also under powered. 
The big deal breaker is when you have to fix them. The cost is outrageous whether you do the work yourself or take it to the shop for repair.
There is an auction site where I see many really good used tractors, of all shapes and sizes, come up for sale. Many of them may not be in your back yard but most end up being very good values. Even if a person had to go get them or have it shipped.
You can go there and invest a little time reviewing past sales and, at least, get a feel for what you are going to pay for one.
Look at bigiron.com. Its an online auction. If you find one that you are really interested in, pay a local mechanic to go and access the tractor. They can tell you where its lacking as well as probably even give you an estimate to make any repairs to bring it up to working order, so you know where you stand. Maybe even some detailed photos. It would be money well spent.
There are alot of tractors in the midwest, for sale, due to the lacking economy. A great opportunity for a bargin.
I haven't heard anyone mention the John Deere 4020 series, diesel. It has been determined to be the most dependable mid-sized tractor ever built. Parts are still readily available. They have a dual range PTO and well powered hydraulics. Some even came with hydrostatic drive.
Most people use them as a loader tractor at places like feedlots and dairys. So many will come already equiped with a loader.
They are able to pull a 3 bottom turnover plow, buried to the hilt, in most soils or run a pump on an irrigation well, running 24 hr. at a time.
They will run from the mid 4K's to around $8,000. Depending on condition. Any condition is readily repairable though. I've even seen a farmer who completely rebuilt his after it had burned in a fire, because he liked it so much.
I hope you find what you need.


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## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

at over 80 HP the 4020 is not anywhere near what the OP was looking for.


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## HoosierHog (Apr 23, 2010)

in my opinion you don't need 4 wheel drive and now days kubota is a lot like deere good tractors but you pay more for the color. I bought a 50hp ford 4000 its not to big but big enough to do just about any job and parts are not to expensive. I have to add to the recomendations ford 860 series and the 2000 3000 4000 series tractors. sounds like you need a 3000 42hp diff lock live pto and hydraulics easy to work on even for the inexperienced cost around 4000-6000 and are very reliable.


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