# Pole barn into a home



## rmrc (Aug 20, 2009)

I've searched the threads and the internet, I need people to talk me out of my idea. I have a 4 year old pole barn on 3 acres. I'm thinking about converting it into our home. I understand the insulating issues and can deal with them. The barn has a shingle roof so condensation will not be an issue. My thoughts are that 60'X36', already built and paid for would be a good platform for our new home. Your thoughts please...


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

It's hard to talk someone out of making a home out of a nice structure that's already paid for........and I wouldn't even try.


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

If it is already there, I'd no problem with converting it to a home. 

But it's a waste of materials/money, IMHO, to build one with the intent to use as a home. Conventional stick framing beats it cost wise.


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## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

Will the local permitting jurisdiction allow you to do this? Pole barn may not meet the required building codes if converted to a house. Biggest one I see is the lack of a foundation. Another big one is the roof load ratings. Pole barns may have lower snow/wind load ratings than houses.

Shingle roofs do have condensation problems if not properly vented. Depending on the type of insulation you use you may have to space it down an inch or 2 to create an airspace and put vents in the soffit and ridge. 

Has it been used for animals? What's it have for a floor? You may have to remove 2-3 feet of dirt from the inside to support a slab or not create hazards if you frame a floor.

WWW


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## hiddensprings (Aug 6, 2009)

We did this on our farm in Tennessee. It was awesome! Hubby did most of the work with the exception of some stuff that he didn't want to do like dry wall, running the HVAC, etc.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

rmrc said:


> I've searched the threads and the internet, I need people to talk me out of my idea. I have a 4 year old pole barn on 3 acres. I'm thinking about converting it into our home. I understand the insulating issues and can deal with them. The barn has a shingle roof so condensation will not be an issue. My thoughts are that 60'X36', already built and paid for would be a good platform for our new home. Your thoughts please...


Show some pics please...interior where wall meets floor. Is it a true post barn...are posts buried? 
If it is a barn on slab, with post and beam construction on top, it could be converted easily, and might pass residential building codes if there are any. Buried posts are a 'harder sell' to convert, given one has wood in contact with earth...outbuildings usually have lax or don't have to comply with stricter 'home' building codes. 
As someone mentioned, is your area under building codes? 

Also, as someone mentioned, condensation issues are not alleviated with shingle roofs. Would still need venting. Actually, a metal roof on a rubber membrane would allow less moisture than shingles on tar paper for instance. 

Obviously, if well constructed and no codes (or able to pass codes with minimal mods), converting would be the way to go...you have structure, and a dry space to work in.


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

This is getting to be a pretty common method for construction of country homes and cabins. I recently built a real nice hunting cabin using this method, it's 35' x 55' with 35' x 40' being a finished two bedroom cabin and 35' x 15' garage space. Also has an 8' x 35' covered porch on one end.

My walls and roof are sheeted entirely with 7/16" OSB on the exterior, then covered with house wrap and felt prior to metal wall and roof panel installation. Ceiling in my case is OSB (could be drywall) attached to furring nailed to underside of trusses, with R-28 fiberglass insulation on top of everything. The attic space is vented with a continuous ridge vent. We framed 2x4 walls between the main posts, stuffed the cavities with R-19 fiberglass then covered with finish wall material. We used OSB in utilitarian spaces and pine car siding for walls in living spaces. Floors are just a very slick finished concrete slab, and throw rugs where needed.

For my use, this building is great. Zero maintenance, cheap to heat and cool, and a real comfortable place to stay when we hunt. It's got a full kitchen with nice counter tops and cabinets, all appliances, etc. Full bathroom with shower, vanity, sink and toilet, hot water, etc. We heat and cool the place with a thru wall electric "motel type" heat & air conditioner and an additional small electric heater in the bathroom. Also has a wood stove for cold nights.

I've got nothing but positive comments on this type of construction. Have seen some very attractive houses built with pole barn structures.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

I wouldn't build a pole barn for a house either. Pour an insulated heated slab and stick build is cheaper as it is ready to insulate and finish as everything is built to install on 4' increments, 16" studs and 2' trusses. But since you have the building. I would install house wrap inside first, then vertical studs on a treated sill, to create a surface that can breath, stop sweating and keep the foam insulation from sticking to the purlins and siding. Put wiring in the attic and drop down for outlets and switches, I wouldn't bore through the posts. Floor would be my big concern if concrete is already poured. Cold and damp....James


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## rmrc (Aug 20, 2009)

Right now the pole barn has only been used for storage. My plan would be to use a heated floor which would be poured after all of the plumbing has been laid. I think that I will need to pour footers as well but that won't be a big issue. I have good friends in all building trades. (most owe me favors lol) The building is 60'x36' so there will be plenty of space. It is adjacent to our home and our son will be buying that and we will split off the barn and 3 acres. I realize that resale value may not be as much as a stick built building but that will be an issue for my heirs!


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## GTX63 (Dec 13, 2016)

rmrc said:


> I realize that resale value may not be as mush as a stick built building but that will be an issue for my heirs!


Lol, if it will be your last home and your wife is happy, then have at it!

I have a shop next to our house that is 40'x40" give or take with a 16' overhead door. I have less than 30K in materials, concrete and electrical in the construction. With the height of the building I could build a 2nd floor and double the square footage. Maintenance free exterior with metal walls and roof.
What is the general cost per sf these days to build a stick house? Lets just say $100 sf more (probably) or less. So $320,000 to construct a similar brick and vinyl sided design. I'm pretty sure I could finish out the interior with the remaining 290k and have a little left over for a couple new tires on my tractor.
I am seeing more and more metal buildings that are actually homes. Yes, most are outside city limits and the reach of HOAs and code officers, but in this case the OP isn't affected by that. Churches went in this direction several decades ago and while some may have thought they were tacky at the time, it is a very popular model in commercial construction.
Our next home will also be our last one, and if given the choice between a say beautiful 1600 sf log home or a brand new custom metal one twice the size for the same or less money, I may go with door #2.


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

FYI, I have $64 per SF in the above mentioned cabin which covers everything including; septic, water connection, electrical feed, etc. Only expenses above and beyond was some site clearing and purchase of the land.

Grant it, it's not finished to the level of a house, but I'll bet another $20 per SF would easily get the floors carpeted and walls & ceilings drywall and painted making it equal to most house interiors.


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