# Planning New Homestead



## leeknivek (Nov 4, 2013)

Hello! This is my first post after looking around on here some for the past couple of months. I really enjoy the variety of topics here. 

I'm in the (very early) planning stages of a house right now. Trying to figure out floor plans, layout, an estimate of cost, etc. I have a layout in mind, I wanted to share it for opinions and ask a few questions while I'm at it. I've been working on modeling it in a simple architecture program but it's frustrating and time consuming to figure out, so I drew it up in paint for the time being. I'm planning on a 1.5 story (2 stories, but second story is where an attic would be, technically), 2 bedroom, 1 bathroom. I have a number of tradesmen friends and I went to school for plumbing. I plan on doing all of the work myself that I can and not hiring out to anyone - only trusted friends who will work for relatively inexpensively/tell or show me how to do it myself/provide extra hands for laboring. First, the eye-candy: 










For the colors: 

Gray = Walls
Blue = Doors
Green = Windows
Red = Staircase
Yellow = Knee-walls (next picture)
North = top, South = bottom, etc.

I'm planning on it measuring 32' long by 25' wide (25' is 24' of framing + the additional foot of framing from the two lengthwise walls). Bedroom and kitchen are about 12'x12' each, bathroom is around 6'x9', great/living room is about 32'x12'. Closet for 1st floor bedroom will be under the staircase, to take advantage of space. Bathroom fixtures and kitchen plumbing fixtures will be on same wall (assuming that's within code for my area) to minimize plumbing costs and problems.










I want a moderate balcony over half of the great room, as shown. Planning on a wall of bookcases built into the North wall of the balcony (yellow). The North and South spaces of the 'loft' bedroom can serve as closets. 

For my questions:

1. I was planning on a pier/post and beam foundation to save costs. I'm poor, but not stupid. Is this reasonable? Area I'm planning to build on is clay. From what I've read, it's o.k. as long as concrete piers are below frost line. I don't expect anyone to know my code here, but is it legal/otherwise safe? I'm _kind of_ open to the idea of a crawlspace, but wouldn't prefer it if it isn't necesssary. I do not want a basement, however. There's more square footage and convenience to utilities, but my area is prone to flooded and/or spider-town basements. The additional cost is too much for that type of square footage.  

2. I plan to use an outdoor wood boiler for heat/hot water. Good idea? Bad? I was considering an indoor wood furnace, too, just in case. May do either or, but looking for the most practical yet most inexpensive solution. 

3. Gable vs. Gambrel roof. I think the Gambrel-type roof (think: barn roof) would cost more, but would it be better suited? A Gable roof would need a relatively high pitch too. 

4. My budget is around $60,000. I'm hoping to do it for $40,000 or less. Is this a reasonable estimate? I've done some calculations and without a few things I'm up to $30,000 (I overestimated in everything, too, though). The property I plan to build on is owned by my grandmother and while I haven't asked her yet - as this is still in very early planning stages - it is unused and I don't think there will be a great deal of opposition. Plus it's been in the family for over 100 years and I'd like to carry on the lineage. :hobbyhors :hobbyhors

Also, if anyone sees anything they think are flaws in my plan, _please_ tell me. I won't guarantee I'll like them or agree with you, but I'll listen and consider, I promise you that. Even if it's not a flaw, but a potential improvement - I'm all ears, and would very greatly appreciate it.


Thank you for reading!


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## homstdr74 (Jul 4, 2011)

I can tell you that the cost differential from a gable to a gambrel isnât that great in the long run. We built a gambrel and have added onto it over the years, and have never been unhappy with our decision. I determined that building a gable roof that would allow for a second story would amount to building an A-frame on top of the lower story, and that the extra cost of that could better be incorporated into a gambrel. 

Besides, the walls on an A-frame (or gable) cut out a lot of space on the edges of the room, whereas the gambrel cuts out maybe two feet on either side of the room. We used 2x6x8â rafters gusseted to 2x6x6â rafters at the top, which were toenailed into the ridge beam. 

We also built with piers. I dug the holes 16âx16âxfrostline depth, drove rebar into the soil/hardpan at the bottom (making sure there was enough coming up out of the hole to extend into the pier), tied it together, mixed the concrete by hand and made the pour (making sure I roughed up the surface where the pier would go). I put crossbars on the rebar sticking up out of the concrete, made 12âx12â (at least 3â high) pier forms out of ply reinforced by 2x4âs, coated the inside ply with used motor oil, nailed it together with double-headed nails, placed that on the concrete, leveled it and made the pour to the line I had designated on the inside of the form indicating level with the other piers which I had established by using a line level, and installed a specially made Â½âx16â L-bolt halfway into the concrete (the other half went into the 4âx8â white oak sill timbers I used for the foundation upon which to build).

Weâve never had a problem with anything in the entire building in the 35 years itâs been standing.


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## leeknivek (Nov 4, 2013)

Thank you, that really helped clear that up for me. There was only so much I could find on google. I'll be back with more later tonight, but right now I have to go clock in!


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## KMA1 (Dec 9, 2006)

Agree with homstdr74, Gambrel roof will allow you to have essentially 2 stories instead of 1.5. Post and beam should be fine in the setting you described, however I would never consider building in a floodplain, which is just another way to say I n a river where the water is not there every day or any area prone to flooding. I would also add a second exterior door, possibly off the kitchen. I just don't like the idea of being in a potential trap. I would also add some sort of small wall to block the view of the whole great room from the front door. I personally would also have 2 bathrooms and think about putting the utility at the back wall of the kitchen and a second bath where the utility is in your plan. Your design would be great for heating with a wood heater in the great room. 

Hope this helps. 
kma1


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## leeknivek (Nov 4, 2013)

I'm planning on building it up on a plateau, almost. There is an area below the "plateau" that has a pond and will create some puddles when it rains due to the clay, but where I'm building is more like gravel, I think. There's no water within 200 ft, though. 

As for the exterior doors, the plan isn't set in stone and I was thinking that also. I'm probably going to move the current exterior door so it's vertically aligned with the bathroom door. 

I chose one bathroom to cut down on plumbing costs and went further by placing the bathroom and kitchen plumbing on the same wall. One set of hot and cold water, one drain pipe. I'm not positive if that's up to code, but I sure hope so because it will save a lot of time and material. 

The main goal of this plan is to maximize area while retaining a small floor plan, as to cut down costs but still have a comfortable home. I'm debating between a wood stove, of the Kimberly or katydid type, (gasification) or an outdoor wood-fired boiler. The advantage of the outdoor boiler is hot water, while the indoor one save money on installation and is easier to fill. I may need an additional water heater (which costs more to run) if I have just an indoor wood stove. 

Thank you, kma1, any input is great for me. And both you and homstdr74 have had good ideas.


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

If I'm not mistaken, most areas with code-enforcement will _not_ pass a post and pier foundation. Which is too bad, because it's a perfectly adequate foundation, and cheap and easy.
Will you have to pass an inspection?
My area doesn't have code enforcement. There's not an inspector available, even if you wanted one! lol Except septic, that is. Septic systems have to be inspected by the health department. 

AFAIK, a single wet wall is fine, and usually you'll end up with a single waste pipe once it's exiting the house anyway. So, it shouldn't make a difference if it starts out that way, either, right?
We did the same with our bathroom wet walls lined up vertically, and the laundry on the back side of the main bath. Only the kitchen sink/dishwasher had to be run across...

For a cost estimate, my house is a story and a half like yours, but 24x40 with a full basement underneath. So far we're under $10K with just the roofed shell (no windows/doors! or wiring/plumbing/etc.) Unless you go with granite countertops and expensive flooring and such, you should easily get by under $60, and probably even under $40, depending on how much you hire out. We've hired NOTHING.

Gambrel roof will give you more space, gable will be far easier to frame.


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## leeknivek (Nov 4, 2013)

That's unfortunate, but hopefully I can. I live in the great state of Connecticut with high taxes and ridiculous zoning. As far as I can tell, it's not zoned as a wetland so that's a plus so far. I need to check local laws. I'll be doing construction myself, planning on a well, septic, and electricity for convenience while still having an inexpensive home. I was going to do most of the work myself and with friends without a loan or anything. I wot need insurance I don't think because it isn't a mortgage, but again I'm not sure. I'd rather be careful and cautious than pay for insurance. 

$10k is good, maybe I can get to that too but without my own equipment I'm unsure. I'll have to make new friends! I was planning on making my own cabinets (for durability and so I can make them more convenient than typical MDF cabinets). Pallet-wood flooring with shellac for a nice, yet inexpensive look. It will be a lot of work but I'm thinking it'll be worth it. I've gathered a lot of ideas from Pinterest that I'd like to incorporate. 

I think I'm going to go gambrel for the space. I don't have any experience with roofing joists but I think they wouldn't be too much more trouble, and very well worth it.


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## homstdr74 (Jul 4, 2011)

leeknivek said:


> That's unfortunate, but hopefully I can. I live in the great state of Connecticut with high taxes and ridiculous zoning. As far as I can tell, it's not zoned as a wetland so that's a plus so far. I need to check local laws. I'll be doing construction myself, planning on a well, septic, and electricity for convenience while still having an inexpensive home. I was going to do most of the work myself and with friends without a loan or anything. I wot need insurance I don't think because it isn't a mortgage, but again I'm not sure. I'd rather be careful and cautious than pay for insurance.
> 
> $10k is good, maybe I can get to that too but without my own equipment I'm unsure. I'll have to make new friends!* I was planning on making my own cabinets (for durability and so I can make them more convenient than typical MDF cabinets).* Pallet-wood flooring with shellac for a nice, yet inexpensive look. It will be a lot of work but I'm thinking it'll be worth it. I've gathered a lot of ideas from Pinterest that I'd like to incorporate.
> 
> I think I'm going to go gambrel for the space. I don't have any experience with roofing joists but I think they wouldn't be too much more trouble, and very well worth it.


Altho' we have cabinets now, when I first built this place I built simple open shelving in every room, including the kitchen. Shelving is inexpensive and simple to build. I just used 3/4" construction ply, painted. It's better to cut up AdvanTech 3/4" flooring for long shelves, because it doesn't warp at all, and sometimes ply, under certain conditions, might warp.

Gambrel roof rafters are easy to construct. I'm sure if you go online somewhere you'll find an explanation. I used 1/2" ply for the gussets.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

This is a plan we liked. DS built his 24'x24'. Bedroom on right front, bath behind. Living front left, then dining, kitchen to back. Stair center, upstairs bedroom to right, bath straight up and loft to the left. They added a leanto on the back downstairs for the kitchen/dining. A lot of room upstairs with the short walls, bathroom is in a dormer for square walls.....James 

http://www.flyingarrowresort.com/index.php/wallowa-lake-cabin-38


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## Space Cowboy (Apr 26, 2008)

Just a minor point. You might want the Utility room door open to the kitchen rather than the bedroom.

SC


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

Not necessarily...
a friend's back door comes in to the mudroom (utility room) which then opens to their bedroom. She wanted it that way because she loves being able to access her laundry room from her bedroom. No kids at home, this was the most convenient usage for them... 
Come in from doing chores, drop your grodies in the laundry, and change in the bedroom.


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## leeknivek (Nov 4, 2013)

Sorry for such a gap in replies, I've been doing a lot of research! 

The floor plan I posted initially is changed slightly. Instead of a 1 1/2 story, 32x25, I've changed to a 1 story, 32x20. I hope this isn't frustrating to anyone, but I'm still in very early planning stages and trying to make something I enjoy as well as trying to fit the wants and needs of my significant other. 500 sq ft is too small for her, but 900 is too much - from what I've gathered. She doesn't like talking about this... but I'm getting there. (nothing against her, of course!) 

Now we're down from 900-1000 sq ft to 596 sq ft. She said it was perfect. 

Anyways, I've retained the open floor plan. Due to increasing reading and research, I think I'm going to go with a continuous block wall. It'll be a little more expensive, but it'll hold out better regardless, I think. A big reason for this is because I've decided to add, in one half, timber framing! I was planning on a relatively large, open area with vaulted ceilings (12x16) that I don't think would be supported by conventional stud framing. I could be wrong, but in the drawing and rendering it made sense. The timber would be milled by myself, of course, using local trees... Which leads me to asking for some advice. From what I understand, you can't use non-graded lumber in a house to have it up to code. I have no moral qualms about disregarding building code, but for convenience (being able to easily and readily get an electric hookup, primarily) I want to have it up to code, if reasonable. 

If I mill my own lumber - just the structural timbers for framing, nothing else - can I/how do I get them graded? And is it (typically) necessary? From what I understand about my town, they have strict zoning laws (no building in wetlands... ... unless you're building a strip mall) but the code isn't that bad. My grandfather built a 2200 sqft timber-framed home on a continuous block wall and he got away with it somehow (the property I plan to build on is in his field - after it's cleared). I just don't know the process and can't find anything on it. 

New floor plan eliminates utility room - instead, I'd like to have an 'enclosed', airlock-type porch. Underneath, with a small rectangle formed in the corner of the block wall foundation, I'd like to have a small root cellar/utility. Nothing really more than a water pump, water heater, and cold storage. Most likely only accessible from outside, but maybe inside as well, if I can figure out a convenient, yet not clumsy way to do it.


EDIT: Here's the updated floor plan. No gambrel roof as 1-story, but vaulted ceilings and clerestory windows (not shown, the program I used has a really inconvenient roof tool... can't manipulate it the way I want it just yet). 

Bedrooms to the left, closets in between. Kitchen to the top right and 'airlock' porch at the bottom right. 


Regular 2D mockup:









2D rendering:









3D rendering:


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## offgridreamer (Jan 2, 2014)

leeknivek said:


> Hello! This is my first post after looking around on here some for the past couple of months. I really enjoy the variety of topics here.
> 
> I'm in the (very early) planning stages of a house right now. Trying to figure out floor plans, layout, an estimate of cost, etc. I have a layout in mind, I wanted to share it for opinions and ask a few questions while I'm at it. I've been working on modeling it in a simple architecture program but it's frustrating and time consuming to figure out, so I drew it up in paint for the time being. I'm planning on a 1.5 story (2 stories, but second story is where an attic would be, technically), 2 bedroom, 1 bathroom. I have a number of tradesmen friends and I went to school for plumbing. I plan on doing all of the work myself that I can and not hiring out to anyone - only trusted friends who will work for relatively inexpensively/tell or show me how to do it myself/provide extra hands for laboring. First, the eye-candy:
> 
> ...


Pier and beam foundations are fine. The problem is with inspectors. Personally, I wouldn't want to live in an area where an inspector with too much time on his hands could nitpick my design and tell me to take it down. Check the codes before you start. 

You didn't mention what you planned to do with blackwater. The cost of installing a septic system depends on where you live, but it'll easily be over 10,000 dollars, especially if you live in an area with a lot of code enforcement. Some counties are very lenient with building codes, but septic systems are typically enforced. A cheaper solution is to get a composting toilet, save yourself the 10,000 dollars and bypass all of the codes involving the septic system. I didn't know what your plan was for that.

A rainwater harvesting system will be cheaper than digging a well. If you get enough rainfall, look into it.

Another way to save money is to just ask for a discount at most hardware stores. If you're buying a lot of supplies, most places will throw you a 10-15% discount. Also look


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## Maura (Jun 6, 2004)

I really really do not like your kitchen. In a small space, every square foot is premium. A U shaped kitchen is going to be best for you, probably with a counter in between LR and K. You could have a side door between LR and Kitchen instead of a back door. I love the idea of an air lock, but you are throwing away living space. You might want to work out the cost difference of having a basement. Put all the utilities in the basement as well as storage and preps.

Also, I would use all of the space between the two bedrooms. Give yourself a linen closet at one end, and make the bedroom closets longer at the other end.

People love the idea of cathedral ceilings, but they don't really like sitting in such spaces. A 9' foot ceiling is comfortable if the room is not too small. A vaulted or cathedral ceiling means difficulty in painting, and loss of heat to the ceiling. If you have radiant in-floor heat, this isn't a problem, but with forced hot air, you are heating the ceiling.


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## leeknivek (Nov 4, 2013)

offgridreamer said:


> Pier and beam foundations are fine. The problem is with inspectors. Personally, I wouldn't want to live in an area where an inspector with too much time on his hands could nitpick my design and tell me to take it down. Check the codes before you start.


Yeah, that is something to consider. I'm trying to figure out costs for a block foundation, for materials. I feel confident enough to do it myself withsome books, some help and some YouTube. I was thinking of doing a partial basement - under where the 'airlock' would be - and using that for cold storage and potential utilities (water pump, water heater, etc.). Approximate dimensions would be 4ft x 12ft, long and narrow but enough room for shelving and utilities. 



offgridreamer said:


> You didn't mention what you planned to do with blackwater.


I was planning on installing a septic system. I need to do more research into this, though. From what I've read, in the 70's (the context in which most of my reading material is - in buying used books) you could build your own septic tank with concrete block. I need to figure out costs and do much more research. I did buy a book on self-installing wells and septic tanks, but haven't gotten to reading it just yet. 



offgridreamer said:


> A cheaper solution is to get a composting toilet...


It depends. I've played with the idea, but I need to figure out how much of a convenience a septic is vs. cost of this, and whether we want to go through with that or not. 



offgridreamer said:


> A rainwater harvesting system will be cheaper than digging a well. If you get enough rainfall, look into it.


I was planning that at first. I live in rural Connecticut, so there's not that much. Sometimes it rains for weeks straight, sometimes it won't rain at all for weeks.



offgridreamer said:


> Another way to save money is to just ask for a discount at most hardware stores.


That's a good idea, thank you. I'm trying to figure out a rough budget while I'm doing this using excel. Unfortunately I lost all my work and have to start over. I was trying to make a rough estimate of *how many* of *what* materials *at what cost* per material.




Maura said:


> I really really do not like your kitchen. In a small space, every square foot is premium. A U shaped kitchen is going to be best for you, probably with a counter in between LR and K. You could have a side door between LR and Kitchen instead of a back door. I love the idea of an air lock, but you are throwing away living space. You might want to work out the cost difference of having a basement. Put all the utilities in the basement as well as storage and preps.


I've been debating the air lock, too. The day before yesterday I did update the plans a little and after reading this decided to go without it. I figure that there's room on the left side to build an addition (a larger living room, maybe) if it ends up being too small. If I ever end up doing that, I could always convert that area to an airlock. The kitchen I'm trying to make as minimalist as possible. We don't use it a lot of times and if we do, we don't make huge meals or anything. A sink, a refrigerator, and a small induction cook top (2 burners) was what I planned on. A toaster oven, too, because we use that often. I don't like the idea of a large range because it takes up space and electricity and isn't used by us too much. 



Maura said:


> Also, I would use all of the space between the two bedrooms. Give yourself a linen closet at one end, and make the bedroom closets longer at the other end.


I fixed this a couple of days ago after thinking the same thing myself!



Maura said:


> People love the idea of cathedral ceilings, but they don't really like sitting in such spaces. A 9' foot ceiling is comfortable if the room is not too small. A vaulted or cathedral ceiling means difficulty in painting, and loss of heat to the ceiling. If you have radiant in-floor heat, this isn't a problem, but with forced hot air, you are heating the ceiling.


I'll include pictures of the roof detail in this post to show what I meant with the vaulted ceilings and clerestory lighting. I'll be heating with a wood stove exclusively, maybe (very big maybe) a rocket stove as an alternative. I tried to incorporate some sort of 'skylight' (clerestory lighting) into the roof while keeping costs low. Same amount of shingles, a little more framing, and some added windows. 

With such a small floorplan, and with the woodstove in the middle of the house (as shown in updated picture below) I don't think I'll have to worry about heat loss too much so long as everything is insulated. 


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Here's the updated floor plan. Minimal changes this time: 










I moved the wood stove from the LR to that little nook, plan on making that into a hearth to conduct heat and it's closer to the center of the house. I took out the 'airlock' porch, but I'm unsure if I should keep the wall next to the wood stove or not. It would be framed with a brick wall on the side with the wood stove.

The MB (bottom) is a tiny bit larger. The closets are bigger and more convenient than previously. 










Here's a view of the kitchen/living room from the top left corner. Shows the wood stove/hearth and the added space without the air lock. 










Roof detail: where the timber framing is, the roof has the windows and vaulted ceiling. the pitch is the same throughout, only that in that section it goes up further. It's hard to explain through text. I think I said above, the roofing in the other program I use is wonky and doesn't work well... I used the Sims 3 to make this and show how the roof would be. 


Nothing's really set in stone thus far, hence all the changes, but I'm getting closer. Still open to input and ideas, thank you all for posting!


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

Personally, for the size of your space, I would stick with your open, L-shaped kitchen. A "U" would make it entirely too crowded. 
Nor do I think you'll have trouble with your vaulted ceiling. My dad built a 20x20 cabin about 35 years ago with a loft over half of the house. The other half is vaulted. The space feels perfect, but they do indeed lose a lot of heat to the ceiling! lol The loft has to be closed off, otherwise those sleeping upstairs will roast, even on a sub-zero night. 
However, the folks don't have electricity there and a couple of ceiling fans would probably solve that problem.


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## leeknivek (Nov 4, 2013)

ErinP said:


> Personally, for the size of your space, I would stick with your open, L-shaped kitchen. A "U" would make it entirely too crowded.
> Nor do I think you'll have trouble with your vaulted ceiling. My dad built a 20x20 cabin about 35 years ago with a loft over half of the house. The other half is vaulted. The space feels perfect, but they do indeed lose a lot of heat to the ceiling! lol The loft has to be closed off, otherwise those sleeping upstairs will roast, even on a sub-zero night.
> However, the folks don't have electricity there and a couple of ceiling fans would probably solve that problem.


I decided to forego the loft in the new plan and just go with a smaller footprint overall. The loft was intended to be a library in the overlook part and a bedroom to the left, so instead the bedroom is on the ground floor (intended for a kid later on  so we didn't want to have that much separation with a small child)

It'll be about 14ft at its highest, while being the closest point to the wood stove, so I think it might balance out. Since the wood stove is also relatively close to the bedrooms, I was considering vents in the walls to allow heat to go through while having the bedroom doors closed, if needed.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

I liked your first plan the best. The upstairs is cheap space. The other thing I see is a lack of a coat closet for the entry and a linen closet. A lot of wasted space in your second plan, rooms too long and narrow. Hall too wide, a closet for each room end to end and a linen at the end. Wood stove nook, waste of space. I like the look of the last elevation plan. No porch inset but I would have the tails of the trusses come down for a porch. I think the wood stove is better in the living room and go ahead with an airlock entry with a closet in it....James


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## NorthwoodsMike (Jun 10, 2013)

I was exactly where you were a little less than two years ago. It's funny, your initial plan is fairly close to what I considered. Here is where it sits today http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/country-living-forums/homestead-construction/487777-our-northwoods-homestead.html

I know I'm a little late to the game, but maybe I can still be of help.



> I've been working on modeling it in a simple architecture program but it's frustrating and time consuming to figure out, so I drew it up in paint for the time being.


Invest in some good software. It really pays for itself. We used Chief Architect's Home Designer Suite.



> I'm planning on a 1.5 story


Excellent plan! They are very efficient. I know later in the thread you reconsidered, but I wouldn't do it. It's generally cheaper to build up than out.



> I'm planning on it measuring 32' long by 25' wide (25' is 24' of framing + the additional foot of framing from the two lengthwise walls).


Try to keep things in multiples of 4. It saves lots of cutting. Also, with a 25' wide home, you are looking at load bearing interior walls, if you use standard lumber. 2x12's will span 20' no problem. We originally planned a 20x40 design, but really wanted the extra 4ft, so we opted for trusses and a 24x40 design. While the trusses cost a bit more than load bearing interior walls, they were well worth it when it came to electrical/plumbing. Something to consider if you do opt for a wider home. Also, you absolutely should have knee walls on the second floor. Every vertical foot taller is 2 feet gained horizontally.



> Bathroom fixtures and kitchen plumbing fixtures will be on same wall (assuming that's within code for my area) to minimize plumbing costs and problems.


Perfectly acceptable within ICC IPC, which governs where I live. Try to keep all plumbing on interior walls too.



> 1. I was planning on a pier/post and beam foundation to save costs. I'm poor, but not stupid. Is this reasonable? Area I'm planning to build on is clay. From what I've read, it's o.k. as long as concrete piers are below frost line. I don't expect anyone to know my code here, but is it legal/otherwise safe? I'm _kind of_ open to the idea of a crawlspace, but wouldn't prefer it if it isn't necesssary. I do not want a basement, however. There's more square footage and convenience to utilities, but my area is prone to flooded and/or spider-town basements. The additional cost is too much for that type of square footage.


Have you looked into a monolithic slab? Essentially a slab with a grade beam all the way around. You can insulate and install pex and you have a good chunk of your "hvac" done. An OWB which you are considering can be tied right in. Concrete can also be finished to look really nice. The upfront cost is more than pier/post, but it takes care of several other separate costs later.



> 2. I plan to use an outdoor wood boiler for heat/hot water. Good idea? Bad? I was considering an indoor wood furnace, too, just in case. May do either or, but looking for the most practical yet most inexpensive solution.


OWB's work excellent with infloor heat, should you install pex. For a secondary heat system I would get a stand alone woodburner, as no electricity is required should power be out.



> 3. Gable vs. Gambrel roof. I think the Gambrel-type roof (think: barn roof) would cost more, but would it be better suited? A Gable roof would need a relatively high pitch too.


I'm of a different opinion than the others who commented before me, especially since you are in a "code heavy" area and want to do the work yourself. With a gambrel roof, you would essentially build your own roof trusses. In a code crazy area, trusses typically mean an engineers signature. Now, many home improvement stores offer free engineering if you buy the trusses from them, but that may be additional cost you don't want. I say may, because sometimes it makes sense to pay a little extra to save later.

If you go with a gable roof, engineers may not be required, as you are now in the world of span tables. You will also see in my build, that dormers prevented wasted space, and in my opinion, look great.



> 4. My budget is around $60,000. I'm hoping to do it for $40,000 or less. Is this a reasonable estimate? I've done some calculations and without a few things I'm up to $30,000


I think it could be done. Super tight budget, and lots of sweat equity, but I think it's possible. If you aren't in a hurry, you could save lots keeping an eye on craigslist.


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