# What Type of Hive



## SLFarmMI (Feb 21, 2013)

We are in the planning stages of getting some beehives for our property and I am looking for some opinions about what type of hive would be best for our situation. I've read a bunch of stuff about beekeeping but I can't decide between the Langstroth type hive or the top bar type hive. I'd like to hear some opinions from those of you who are experienced beekeepers. Or am I just overthinking it all and it really doesn't make a difference? We are in southeastern Michigan (pretty much spitting distance from Ohio).


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## ET1 SS (Oct 22, 2005)

I have had Langstroth hives and Topbar hives. I think a person should play with both. But Langstroth's are better.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Your in Michigan! Langstroth's are better.

People keep for getting top bar hives were designed for a hot climate which Michigan is not.
Bees also work up in what we call the chimney effect in the winter.

 Al


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## bobp (Mar 4, 2014)

I suggest getting your feet wet with Langstroths, and going from there.


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## SLFarmMI (Feb 21, 2013)

alleyyooper said:


> Your in Michigan! Langstroth's are better.
> 
> People keep for getting top bar hives were designed for a hot climate which Michigan is not.
> Bees also work up in what we call the chimney effect in the winter.
> ...


Thanks, I hadn’t come across that info in my reading. I do have a concern that, not having a ton of upper body strength, I might not be able to lift the boxes in a Langstroth type hive. The last thing I would want is a bunch of ticked off bees zooming around because I’ve dropped the darn thing.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

I have been keeping bees for a very long time and I just don't under stand the term " lift the boxes in a Langstroth type hive".

Research where you want your be hives to be before you put the hives in use. they stay there no need to move them so no need to lift them at all.

Chose shallow honey supers, then put 8 or nine frames in them to keep the weight down at harvest.










Do as my wife and I do just take a frame at a time and place it in a empty box in our wagon with a cover on it.

Once at the honey house I set the shallows on the carts I built to move them around in the honey house.










Think out side the box and use your mind rather than muscle.

If you ever get so big you have out yards and are forced to move full colonies buy a hive carrier which two people use to lift a colony only high enough they go on a wagon then in a trailer to move to a different out yard when the property is sold.


. Al


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## SLFarmMI (Feb 21, 2013)

Yes, I was referring to lifting the full boxes of honey but probably didn't explain what I meant well enough. One frame at a time would definitely be more logical.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Carriers like this are the best type.












I am sure you can see why this one isn't as handy.












 Al


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## spud (Feb 3, 2007)

Top bars are ok but I think it is easier getting started with lang's. If you want a top bar you could make a long lang and go foundationless and have pretty much the same thing. It is easier to overwinter hives in Mich if they insulated so you could with beemax for lang's or make your own using "beekeeping with a smile" design. I live in Maumee and I have only success using Freeman trays for mite control, that's our biggest problem currently in beekeeping.


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## OwlHillFarm (Feb 11, 2016)

I'm cheap and had plenty of scrap wood lying around so I built some top bar contraptions figuring that bees happily set themselves up in almost any gap they can find if it's dry. I can't complain, the bees seem happy although dealing with non-standard equipment is sometimes annoying. I suspect that choosing to purchase local survivor queens has done more for my operation than the type of hive. Good luck


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