# How do I build rabbit cages?



## bigbrologan (May 15, 2009)

I want to know how to build wire rabbit cages, what way is best to build them, and what arrangement best works for a 6-hole rabbitry, is it stacked, hanging, or what? Please just give me all the information you can. Everything you've ever learned about building wire rabbit cages. My cages will probably need to be 30x30 to 30x36 FYI, so please just help me out and let me know what I can do to make this work, I'm on a bit of a budget, so cheaper is better, but I also want quality, so not super cheap but cheaper and somewhat good quality.

Thanks,
Logan


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## trinityoaks (Sep 17, 2008)

My first cage was from a kit. I wanted to see how one was put together. I quickly decided I didn't like the clips that came with it, so I switched to J-clips. I also had to invert the floor because it was attached (by the manufacturer) inside out. I like for my doors to hinge at the bottom, so that they drop down completely when they're open. I use the finger-loop spring latches from Bass to keep them closed.

I make my cages from wire that I buy in rolls from TSC. I use this for the sides and top:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/fencing/welded-wire-fencing/cage-wire-36-x-25-ft-1-x-2-in--3627241

and I use this for the floors:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/fencing/welded-wire-fencing/cage-wire-30-x-10-ft-1-2-x-1-in--3627209

I use these dropping pans:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/pet-ca...e-plastic-dropping-pan-30-in-x-30-in--2180597

Even if you can't find it in your local TSC, you can order it online and have it shipped to your local TSC for free.

I prefer using J-clips to fasten the wire together. Make sure you have plenty of J-clips, good pairs of J-clip pliers and wire cutters, and gloves (to pad your hands). I order the clips and the pliers from Bass.

I started out by making the sides all one piece and bending the wire at the corners in order to save wire and J-clips. I've decided I don't like that idea because the cages don't come out quite square.

As for stacking/hanging, I think a lot depends on where your cages will be located and how much space you have. The best thing to do there is to get ideas from the other people here and pick what suits your situation best. Mine are currently in our attached garage, although I hope to have a barn to put them in someday.

Here is my stacking system for my 30"x30" cages. I'll try to get photos that will show how it's put together. I got a lot of my ideas from moonkitten's Web site. I designed a 2-cage system out of 2x4s, 1x2s, and L-brackets. 6' 2x4s form the uprights in the corners, with horizontal 31" 2x4s across the sides, at the top, center, and bottom. I have L-brackets attached to those to hold the cages. I have horizontal 31" 2x4s across the front and back, with three slats of 31" 1x2s (front to back) to hold the dropping pans. The whole thing is braced on the sides and back with 8' 1x2s attached diagonally. It's all put together with screws (nails are NOT a good idea--they'll work loose.) Lesson learned from this project: make your stacking system just a little bigger than your cage dimensions, or you might find it too tight for your cages to fit.  (Remember my not-quite-square cages?) :grumble: Still, I do like the design, and three more of these are on my DH's honey-do list (he's better at the actual construction stuff than I am).


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## rabbitgeek (Mar 22, 2008)

I built a lot of cages using the instructions found in "Raising Rabbits the Modern Way" a book by Bob Bennett

The updated version is called "Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits" by Bob Bennett 

As mentioned above, a good pair of wire cutters is essential. Whenever you cut, there is always a little pointy stub sticking up. This stub needs to be covered or smoothed over with a metal file or die grinder. Otherwise it will slash your skin or clothing every time you are within 10 inches of it.

Another way of handling this is when you cut your doorways, leave the wire stub one inch long and fold it over so the end points away from the door. This will take some time, but assures a smooth edge.

This is especially critical at the doorway of the cages. The doorway and the door should be smooth and free from spikes since this is where you are most likely to put your hands and arms.

Be sure the doors are big enough for your nest boxes. 
Or make sure your nest boxes are small enough for your doorways.

Have a good day!


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> I've decided I don't like that idea because the cages don't come out quite square.


That's how I do mine, but I use a wooden form to bend them around to help keep it square. 
The rabbits don't mind if it's off a little


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## byexample (Aug 28, 2009)

My cages have all been assembled / built with kits from Klubertanz. By the time I factored in all the materials it really wasn't that much more expensive to go with the unassembled cages. Definitely made things go faster since all the panels are pre-cut and ready for assembly. There's also not a TSC (or anything like it) anywhere near us. So I would have had to pay shipping on my cage supplies no matter what.

They have both stacking cages and single cages for hanging. They also carry some really nice brackets for hanging cages. There's also several levels of quality to choose from.

I went with a 30x36x18 cage as my standard size. I have both individual hanging cages and a few sets of their stacking cages w/ pans. I also bought and installed the urine guards (which are very affordable). In theory I could have used smaller cages for my bucks... but nice thing about having all your cages the same size is that you can shuffle animals around more easily.

I've been extremely happy with the quality of the cages, accessories, and tools that I've purchased at Klubertanz. And if you really want to build your own they have all sorts of wire, supplies, crimps, tools, etc. for diy cages. Of course if you can find your supplies locally you'll save money cause shipping wire rolls or cages ain't cheap.

I liked the suggestion concerning buying one cage to use as a template / learner and then build your own after that. I could see that saving one a fair bit of money.

Best of luck!


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## trinityoaks (Sep 17, 2008)

Bearfootfarm said:


> That's how I do mine, but I use a wooden form to bend them around to help keep it square.


I tried that, but didn't have much success. The wire is too stiff.



> The rabbits don't mind if it's off a little


The rabbits don't mind, but I had a heck of a time trying to get my not-quite-square cages into my cage rack. :flame: We ended up having to take the front and back crossbeams off and put some wooden shims in between to separate the uprights just enough to get the cages in. And the cage rack sat on its side in my garage (taking up MUCH needed space) for about six months until DH and I could find the time to put our heads together to come up with a way to fix it.


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## trinityoaks (Sep 17, 2008)

rabbitgeek said:


> This stub needs to be covered or smoothed over with a metal file or die grinder. Otherwise it will slash your skin or clothing every time you are within 10 inches of it.


Don't I know it!!! :grit: One of our newest cages was built by DS13, who wasn't as careful with his measurements as he might have been. He also evidently didn't get the part about folding the ends back. I've caught my clothes more than once on that cage. :grumble:

In his defense, he and DS17 and I were building cages on short notice. We had just picked up three new rabbits, about two days after finally being able to make contact with the seller. The rabbits were in cardboard boxes waiting for their cages, and the buck kept escaping from his box and getting into the girls' boxes. Surprisingly no kits from that little episode!

Still, I really need to go back and fix that cage. I have an empty one now that Smokey's gone, so I could put our Cal buck in there while I fix the other cage.


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## Honorine (Feb 27, 2006)

I've made cages, and have learned the following- its better and cheaper to buy used cages, look on Craigslist, local classifieds, Rabbit Yahoo lists, talk to 4H people, go to a rabbit show, even farm consignment auctions. Really, once you buy the equipment you need and quality wire you might have well bought them new from a vendor at a show. Cheapest is used, look around. Do not buy the Havahart cages from TSC, they are cheap garbage that rusts thru and falls apart quickly. If you really are going to try and make them I will tell you a few things I figured out, you need a dremel, to grind down the sharp edges. Measure and mark your doorways with bright magic marker before cutting, its easy to make a mistake and cut the wrong wire. Buy the better J clip plier, the thin economy one hurts your hand after awhile. Make your doors swing out, with a side hinge, instead of swinging in with a top hinge, trust me you'll get annoyed with the push in doors quickly. Do not use hardware cloth for your floors.

There's three different kinds of welded wire, galvanized before welding, this is cheaper and rusts, and galvanized after welding, this is more expensive buts lasts a long time. Then there's one with a zinc aluminum finish, supposed to be very rust resistant. Know what kind of wire it is your buying.


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## 5050 (Oct 29, 2008)

Check out the "Rabbit Housing Manual" by Dr. McNitt then you can make an informed decision. http://www.suagcenter.com/News Archives/Feb-Apr2009/RabbitHousingManual.html There a number of useful designs out there
I usually buy used cages and put new bottoms in them adjust them to fit our space requirements..


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## laughaha (Mar 4, 2008)

I checked out tractor supply yesterday (for feed prices) and was surprised at how cheap their 30" x 36" cages were- $35. Took about 5 minutes to set them up. These are going to be overflow/weaner cages so won't have huge flemishes in them. If they do alright, I'll be getting more. We normally build huge cages but we have so much going on that we just didn't have time to build cages and these seemed to be a good solution for us.


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## jkmlad (Jun 18, 2009)

When checking feed prices at TSC make sure you check the tags/ tapes for production dates as well. Our TSC is famous for not rotating its stock... and that seems to be a pretty universal problem. Old feed is yukky feed. Why pay for something your rabbits won't eat or can't get adequate nutrition from? On the cage thread; go to Sears, and buy a pair of wire cutters there. I think mine are called "bull nosed cutters" or something like that. They cost about $18, but Craftsman tools are warranteed for life. When they get dull, I take them back and get a new pair! You've got to love that feature! It's a shame you live on the other side of the country from me... I am getting ready to build some new cages, and would be happy to do a cage building workshow to show you how I do it. I have gotten some hand-me-down cages from TSC, and find they are not too well made. The wire used seems a bit flimsy, and I suppose that is because they are made more for the pet than for the the production trade. They are a bit better than what you can buy at Petco or PetSmart. Visiting a local rabbit show and talking to the equipment vendor would be a good idea for you. You will find that their equipment is more reasonable than the big dealers, and you won't have to pay shipping. I buy wire in 100 foot rolls, and have it cut to my specs. The cuts cost me about $1 a panel. Worth it to my arthritic hands.


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