# Town wants at least a stone driveway in 90 days



## roadless (Sep 9, 2006)

The place I just bought certainly needs work.
I am surprised the town inspector overlooked some things and called me out on others.
My 60'Ã15' driveway has some stone but is overgrown with weeds and grass, that was mowed.
I got an estimate to do it up right by removing topsoil, grading and stone but it came to 3,600, way over my budget.

Any suggestions on how I can satisfy the requirements by my own hand, quickly , frugally and sensibily?


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

I'd spray it with a long acting herbicide and spread rock on top of what is there if you can't afford to do more now.


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## roadless (Sep 9, 2006)

That seems the only way I can satisfy the town rules, but it's annoying to go to the expense only to tear it out later when I can afford to do it right.

What herbicide do you recommend?


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

Roundup or the generic equal (Cornerstone/etc)


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## roadless (Sep 9, 2006)

Thanks TnAndy, I didn't know if it was as good as it's hype.


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## Steve_S (Feb 25, 2015)

Are you keeping the driveway in the same location / layout ? If you are, you could do as TnAndy suggests to kill the growth... but dig a wee hole and see if there is gravel base under it just topsoil blown/tossed over that. If there is, bring in a load of A Grade fine gravel, spread it over some road cloth and that will harden up quite quickly. Hopefully it's just a thin layer of soil over some sort of base.

If it's just topsoil then your stuck removing the organics before laying in gravel. That was my situation and so I filled with Pit Run gravel and topped with A Grade.. Pit run was cheap @ $90 a triaxle x3 loads, the A Grade was 250 a load x 2 which was 1 year after the pit run was put down allowing that to get well packed & hardened up.


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## MichaelZ (May 21, 2013)

A bottle of this concentrate for about $10 will probably be enough for your driveway. You can find inexpensive brands like this at your local farm supply store. 
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...ncentrate-grass-and-weed-killer-41-glyphosate

You should not have to dig up anything. Just spray the grass and weeds. Then have some gravel dumped over the top - 1 or 2 loads. In future years you can follow with some more. My father-in-laws driveway is picture perfect and all he does is sprays the weeds and adds additional gravel every few years. $3600 is outrageous! More like $360, if that.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

roadless said:


> The place I just bought certainly needs work.
> I am surprised the town inspector overlooked some things and called me out on others.
> My 60'Ã15' driveway has some stone but is overgrown with weeds and grass, that was mowed.
> I got an estimate to do it up right by removing topsoil, grading and stone but it came to 3,600, way over my budget.
> ...


Agree with others, $3600 is silly, especially given the size of driveway. One load of gravel is plenty (tandem/tri axle - 12-14 tons). Spray heavily with Roundup or equivalent (glyphosate)....give it a good week for it to do it's thing, preferable during a dry spell (no rain for at least 24hrs after applying). 
Go to your nearest gravel pit and look at what they got. If a flat driveway, I will use torpedo/pea (1/2" clear)...if sloped, granite crush (3/4" minus - compacts nicely) or 3/4" clear. I like gravel with sharp edges, as it locks together nicely and compacts. Round stuff, doesn't compact as well, but drains better, and it easier to play with and repair (not too thick or your car tires will furrow it)

I have two pits I peruse...since I've gotten 150 loads over the years, they know me well. I will go to each pile and step on it, pick it up, test compactness, drainage, etc. 

Prices up here run about $20-25+ per ton. So, about $300/load plus trucking fee (depends how far away your place is). I pay $100 for trucking, as it is almost an hour roundtrip for them. 

Have them dump it in the middle of driveway or if they are good, they can actually dump on the run (tip box and once it starts flowing, they drive). Lays it out...will require some elbow grease to level by hand (landscape rake is my tool of choice). 

Seriously, 15x60 is nothing (almost too small for one load...depends on subsoil)...I'd be inclined to have them dump the load in a spot that you can easily wheelbarrow from. You probably won't even use it all...the spare can be used for patching down the road. Depends on whether your town or you can handle a small pile sitting there.


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## Raeven (Oct 11, 2011)

You've gotten good advice from others about what to do, and I don't have any better to add -- but I just wanted to comment that my jaw dropped when I saw the price you were quoted. That's nuts! 

Just for comparison, I just replaced a collapsing old culvert with a brand new 40-foot 78" one and had my entire 1,000-foot driveway re-graveled with 3/4" minus. They also re-graveled the apron area around the house and workshop. The project included moving phone lines that are buried underground, extensive and careful excavation work for the culvert part of the project, then spreading the new gravel with trucks and compacting it with a roller machine. I think I used 14 loads of gravel.

The _entire project_ cost $12,000.

I really hate it when some contractors try to take advantage of single women living on their own, and that sounds like what has happened to you. Jerks.


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## oneraddad (Jul 20, 2010)

Since you live in PA I looked up a landscape material company in your state to see what you guys called it and this is what I found. If you ordered 10 yards, that will get you almost 4" of coverage on the whole 60x15 area. I would use a line trimmer to cut the weeds and wouldn't spray because it's turning winter and besides the weeds won't grow back through 4" of that base. I'd have the delivery driver slowly drive forward as he dumps the load and then spread it a little at a time over the next 89 days. First ask the city if the material is approved before buying it. You might buy a landscape rake if you don't have one.


http://www.legacylandscapematerials.com/index.php/landscaping-products-and-delivery/crushed-stone/


2A Modified
1.5" Down to Dust Limestone
This stone mixed with dust that will pack and get hard is ideal for driveways.


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## MichaelZ (May 21, 2013)

And just to add, my father-in-laws driveway was created over a wet, clay, springy field in a climate that produces severe frost heaving. No topsoil removed - they just dumped larger rock to form an interlocking base. Then over the top with a few loads of smaller rock. His was as bad a situation as you could ask for but his driveway did not even cost a thousand dollars. But you already have a base from the sounds of it. Just clean it up and give it a new top.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

I use a man that has a small single axle dump truck. A load cost me $80.00 spread. Me, that small an area, I would spray, doesn't cost much. Let set, dig/pull any big clumps, rake any trash off the top to the edges for pickup later. As said spread right down the center and rake out, thicker in the center for a crown, all sloped to the road ditch, or level if the driveway slopes to one side and away to a ditch or low spot to keep water from puddling on the rock.

I rake my driveway in the fall after the rains start, filling in any pot holes and rake to the center to give a crown. My driveway is 250' long with 2 culvert crossings. I also clean the ditches as needed to keep the water off the road itself. Any rock moved out to the edge gets raked to the center. Doing this keeps me from buying rock. Maybe a small load every 5 years. I always keep a small pile for any repairs and potholes. Of course I put a good crown down the middle to start and drive slow....James


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## po boy (Jul 12, 2010)

roadless said:


> The place I just bought certainly needs work.
> I am surprised the town inspector overlooked some things and called me out on others.
> My 60'Ã15' driveway has some stone but is overgrown with weeds and grass, that was mowed.
> I got an estimate to do it up right by removing topsoil, grading and stone but it came to 3,600, way over my budget.
> ...


I just did 600+ feet of driveways for less than $2000. 22 tons of crush and run runs about $350 per load. That's delivery and spreading. One load will cover your driveway.

ETA Thinking about it I think I spent about $3000, but it's more than 600 feet.


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## po boy (Jul 12, 2010)

I got my rock from Vulcan and they have two locations in Pa.


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## Steve_S (Feb 25, 2015)

Coarse Salt or Lyme will also kill all weeds too you know... The "Old Tyme Solutions" still work. Caution required. There has never been and never will be ANY chemicals on my land... weed killer or bug juice unless is 100% natural. Tight well packed gravel that is driven on, will not present weeds. Road Cloth or Heavy Commercial Landscaper cloth will provide a barrier, top it with gravel, problem solved.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

Steve_S said:


> Coarse Salt or Lyme will also kill all weeds too you know... The "Old Tyme Solutions" still work. Caution required. *There has never been and never will be ANY chemicals on my land*... weed killer or bug juice unless is 100% natural. Tight well packed gravel that is driven on, will not present weeds. Road Cloth or Heavy Commercial Landscaper cloth will provide a barrier, top it with gravel, problem solved.


Salt and lime *are* chemicals, and can be more harmful than Glyphosate


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## MichaelZ (May 21, 2013)

Here is a question: By what authority does the town inspector have to tell you your driveway has too many weeds? Typically, demands like this come only people with some sort of financial hold (like a bank giving a loan), an inspector on new construction or remodeling that involves a permit, or a buyer demanding changes or there is no purchase. I would think the person selling would have the responsibility of updating things. Seems strange, but maybe that is the way they do it around you. 

What happens if you do not dress up this driveway? Just curious.


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## roadless (Sep 9, 2006)

I very much appreciate all of your responses, thank you all.

As far as what the town would do if I don't comply in 90 days ,I have no idea. Good question. 
This is something that I wanted to do anyhow, but to my way of thinking there are more pressing concerns....I didn't want to spend my limited funds on cosmetics at this time.


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## Declan (Jan 18, 2015)

roadless said:


> The place I just bought certainly needs work.
> I am surprised the town inspector overlooked some things and called me out on others.
> My 60'Ã15' driveway has some stone but is overgrown with weeds and grass, that was mowed.
> I got an estimate to do it up right by removing topsoil, grading and stone but it came to 3,600, way over my budget.
> ...


If there is a quarry near you, use crush and run gravel and just spread it thin. It will provide a bed should you ever want to pave it.


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## Lookin4GoodLife (Oct 14, 2013)

roadless said:


> I am surprised the town inspector overlooked some things and called me out on others.
> I got an estimate to do it up right by removing topsoil, grading and stone but it came to 3,600, way over my budget.


The guy you got the $3600 quote from is not the brother-in-law of the town inspector is he?


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## Steve_S (Feb 25, 2015)

@Roadless... You did not mention it and I believe we ALL assumed that this property is not within Town / City limits and that it was out of town / rural. I could see that "IF" within town limits, they could have specific by-laws that require such. If that is the case, those by-laws would be on file and available to see. If this is a County by-law, same would apply. 

Ask to see where the "Driveway Requirement" is indicated and get a copy of that document and see... I have known Building Inspectors that make stuff up on the fly, especially for people "new to the area"... I'm sure a few members here could post stories on just such occurrences. If there are no By-Laws or Ordinances that state such, then it is pure FELDERCARB and should be treated as such.


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## roadless (Sep 9, 2006)

Unfortunately, it is considered in town, though on the outskirts.


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## roadless (Sep 9, 2006)

Maybe I should change my name to drivewayless .


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

I have built 14 cottages in the little town here. Have to get the building permits through the county however. The county just has the city look to make sure the set back is OK. They only look on a map. The city tells me each time I have to have a paved driveway, never have. They have no power to enforce it. I told them pave all your streets, I might think about it. The alley i am building the garages on now is gravel. A garage has to have a 8' pad in front by code. No garage no paving is required. They changed many city codes but the state will not OK it because it is not consistant. They defer to the county. City thinks they can regulate fences, other than in the right of way, they do not have any. I have challenged them and they always back down, won't even come out to look. The state code calls for a paved approach on their roads, here, even if in the city limits. The main street here is a state road and truck route....James


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## Declan (Jan 18, 2015)

The issue may not be whether if you have to have one, but if you do have one, then it has to meet certain standards. Our code is that you have to have a solid surface path from the street to the door. That can be sidewalks or driveways or stepping stones, but if you do have them, whatever it is, it has to be safe for people to walk on.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

I suspect the town's interest in your driveway has something to do with getting fire department equipment to you should the need arise.


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## Cornhusker (Mar 20, 2003)

Something you might consider is reclaimed asphalt. (I don't remember the actual name of it)
I looked into it a couple years back and it's not too badly priced.
Spread it around and pack it down.


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## po boy (Jul 12, 2010)

Cornhusker said:


> Something you might consider is reclaimed asphalt. (I don't remember the actual name of it)
> I looked into it a couple years back and it's not too badly priced.
> Spread it around and pack it down.


Millings?


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## Laura Zone 5 (Jan 13, 2010)

Forgive me if you have already said so: 

What is the penalty if you do not comply?

Did your home pass inspection?


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## Cornhusker (Mar 20, 2003)

po boy said:


> Millings?


That sounds right


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## Michael W. Smith (Jun 2, 2002)

What part of PA are you at?

I'd also question what the "code" says regarding your driveway.

I think you may want to make a trip to town to the officials to get a copy of this driveway ordinance - and what exactly it says.


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## roadless (Sep 9, 2006)

Reading area.

I did the roundup.
I will rake out the weeds, add a bit more stone and call it a day with it until I can afford to do it the way I would like. 
Come what may. &#55357;&#56842;


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## roadless (Sep 9, 2006)

There is no raking out the weeds, it is solid hard packed. I waited till today since it rained last night but only succeed in being very sore with little results.
I will just add over, there is some gravel underneath, but looks to be a thin layer.


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## roadless (Sep 9, 2006)

Would it be worth it to lay landscape fabric down on the weed mess before I lay stones? I don't want to get into the same situation again.


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## po boy (Jul 12, 2010)

Make sure you mow the weeds down using the low setting on your mower.


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## roadless (Sep 9, 2006)

Will do.


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## Rick (May 10, 2002)

roadless said:


> Would it be worth it to lay landscape fabric down on the weed mess before I lay stones? I don't want to get into the same situation again.


Yes. We have had typar under gravel in our summer kitchen for 10 years with no growth. It I water permeable also. 

They sell 12 foot wide Typar around here. Is the drive fairly level? If not it might need to b pinned to hold it. 

The stone hauler should be able to advise. I imagine they would back up to the most interior point, roll out the types and drop the rock. 

How long the drive?


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## Rick (May 10, 2002)

roadless said:


> There is no raking out the weeds, it is solid hard packed. I waited till today since it rained last night but only succeed in being very sore with little results.
> I will just add over, there is some gravel underneath, but looks to be a thin layer.


If it you are going with a fabric cover,can it be tilled to smooth out the clumps?

I am assuming the weeds are in clumps.


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