# how to remove the oil seal from a troybilt tiller



## raymilosh (Jan 12, 2005)

Hi all,
I have a troybilt tiller to fix...it's leaking oil out of the gear box that houses the shaft that holds the tines.
Describing the problem is difficult, but I'll try. I'm mostly hoping someone knows exactly what I'm dealing with and can offer some advice. K, so here's my attempt at describing the problem:

To protect the oil seal from rocks and dirt, the metal on the outside of the gearbox extends over the seal on the outside. the seal must be removed from the inside. Not really a big deal, except that an outer bearing race must be removed first. There is essentially no space between the race and the seal and between the seal and the housing, so I haven't been able to get a hold of them to pull them out. The circumference of the metal cover is also small enough that I haven't been able to drive these things out with a punch. I'm guessing I could buy or make an internal wheel bearing type puller/ slide hammer tool, but I've never seen one. I'm really stuck.
Anybody know how to get these things out of there?

ray


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## moopups (May 12, 2002)

Do you have the replacement seal? If so observe it as to additional methods of removal. Some applications need the destruction of the installed unit for removal. This can be done by drilling and using a L shaped retraction pick.

I have no experience with the stated machine, maybe complete disassembly and use a drift punch?

Some seals are a combination of both metal and rubber, such is not unusual.


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## Jim S. (Apr 22, 2004)

Well, most slide hammers come with an L-shaped attachment specificaly for pulling seals, so if you could borrow one of those...

Otherwise, you could to ******* Removal. That involves finding a real stout ice pick or small screwdriver, driving the pick or screwdriver through the metal ring on the outside of the rubber seal with a hammer, then turning the pick sideways and twisting out the seal.

In situations so tight you can't twist the pick sideways, you turn the screwdriver blade so it will cut though the seal metal, then lift up a portion of it and use a small plier to get it out.

Always clean the area with a shot of carb cleaner spray or even WD40 or PB Blaster, to clear any metal shards.

Reinstall using the ******* Seal Tool -- either a long socket, or a piece of pipe of the diameter of the seal metal. Tap with a hammer, you are IN!

I always like to put a little tiny bit of RTV around the outer edge of the metal, just to make sure it seals to the casting.


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## raymilosh (Jan 12, 2005)

moopups said:


> Do you have the replacement seal? If so observe it as to additional methods of removal. Some applications need the destruction of the installed unit for removal. This can be done by drilling and using a L shaped retraction pick.
> 
> I have no experience with the stated machine, maybe complete disassembly and use a drift punch?
> 
> Some seals are a combination of both metal and rubber, such is not unusual.


No, I don't ahve the replacement seal yet. the model name, etc were printed on a sticker and have faded away. the parts guy said I should bring him the tiller so he can look at it and see what kind it is and then he'll order seals. he says it's pretty much of an antique. 
Everything already is completely dissassembled. except for the housing with the races and the seals. (One side of the housing unbolts to provide acess to the inside for installing these gears, and seals and bearings and whatnot.)

To give you an idea of what I'm dealing with...imagine looking at the outside of the gearbox with the seal installed, but the tines and the shaft removed. the seal cannot be seen at all from that vantage point because the opening in the housing is only big enough for the shaft to stick out, not big enough to see the outer (or even inner) edges of the seal. I've never seen anything like it before. the seal is metal covered in rubber typical of most seals I have seen. The metal it is made of looks to be significantly thicker than I'm used to seeing in oil seals. It's probably about 1/16 or greater.
I spoze I could go to a rental shop and look at their wall of pullers.


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## moopups (May 12, 2002)

If the machine is antique seek an antique repairman's advice.


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## dcross (Aug 12, 2005)

I have an '87 PTO Horse, and the owners manual

It says the left seal should come off with the "tiller housing cover", that's held on by five mounting screws, pry the cover off and tap the seal out from the inside with a piece of 1 1/2" plastic pipe.

With the cover off the left side, tap/pull the gear assembly out. Then that 1 1/2" pipe goes in to drive the right seal out.

Your mileage may vary

Lemme know if you need a part number, or the re-assembly directions.


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## raymilosh (Jan 12, 2005)

thanks for the directions. the way the directions are worded has given me an idea... perhaps the cover can be further dissassembled and I just haven't noticed yet. 
If so, then getting the oil seal out will be exactly as easy as any other oil seal.

I'll check it out this afternoon. I'm pretty excited. 


Ray


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## raymilosh (Jan 12, 2005)

AHA!
I got it! The metal cover over the seal was a part of the seal, not a part of the housing cover. Never seen anything like it. Anyway, I just drove it out from inside with a brass punch. No problem. Thank you for the sugesstions and for the text from the repair manual, everyone.
ray


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Glad you got the task done. On most tillers the seal can be changed without dismantling anything but the tines. Just slip the fastener out that hold the tine assembly to the stub shafts coming out of the gearbox. Use a tool like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Snap...020QQitemZ300145353451QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW 
or install a sheetmetal screw in the outer wall of the seal and use a claw hammer to pull the seal. Care needs to be taken on installing the new seal and it is best to use a piece of pipe slightly undersize of the seal OD to drive the seal in.


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## raymilosh (Jan 12, 2005)

Yup. 
If I had known what I was looking at, I could have pulled the seals with a sheet metal screw and a pry bar. Next time this will be a half hour job instead of a 2 hour and 3 week job.


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