# Best cure for coccidia



## Cannon_Farms (Aug 28, 2008)

I have bought some rabbits to resale in the store and some of them have became ill with coccidia and a couple have died. I know each species something works better in, just wondering which would for rabbits.
Thank you

ps, a couple customers took theirs to the vet and that was what they said.


----------



## o&itw (Dec 19, 2008)

Cannon_Farms said:


> I have bought some rabbits to resale in the store and some of them have became ill with coccidia and a couple have died. I know each species something works better in, just wondering which would for rabbits.
> Thank you
> 
> ps, a couple customers took theirs to the vet and that was what they said.



I used to use "Corrid" which is a brand of amprolium, but that was 25 years ago and maybe they have somthing better now.


----------



## Jesse L (Nov 6, 2008)

Cannon_Farms said:


> I have bought some rabbits to resale in the store and some of them have became ill with coccidia and a couple have died. I know each species something works better in, just wondering which would for rabbits.
> Thank you
> 
> ps, a couple customers took theirs to the vet and that was what they said.



I use sulmet. 2 weeks of that and they are all good! :clap:


----------



## Ann Mary (Nov 29, 2004)

For me,...grapeseed extract does the job well and is all natural. 10 drops in a gallon of water for 2 weeks...longer if there is a known bad problem. This also helps to worm them....along with raw pumpkin seeds. I regularly run grapeseed extract through their water at least 3 times a year and have no problems with cocc....and I use it when I bring in new stock as well. The usual dose is 10 drops when there is a problem and 5 drops for prevention.


----------



## Jesse L (Nov 6, 2008)

Ann Mary said:


> For me,...grapeseed extract does the job well and is all natural. 10 drops in a gallon of water for 2 weeks...longer if there is a known bad problem. This also helps to worm them....along with raw pumpkin seeds. I regularly run grapeseed extract through their water at least 3 times a year and have no problems with cocc....and I use it when I bring in new stock as well. The usual dose is 10 drops when there is a problem and 5 drops for prevention.


Thats kool - i never knew that! So - the raw pumkin seeds worm them??


----------



## bluemoonluck (Oct 28, 2008)

Where do you get the grapeseed extract in liquid form??


----------



## Ann Mary (Nov 29, 2004)

GSE can be purchased at a good health food store. The brand I buy is from Nutribiotic and it is called "The Original GSE'. It runs about $8-9 for 2 oz. and it lasts a LONG time for me...and I use it alot. Very concentrated. Behind the front label is a short list of how it can be used such as throat gargle, skin rinse, nail treatments (fungus) etc. It has MANY human/animal/ag uses. Look it up on line and you can read about it. I'm using it right now in the spray bottles I use on my plant seedlings to prevent dampening off and I'm using it now mixed with aloe vera gel on a cat fight wound on my cat. Do NOT use it straight externally!!! It is strong stuff!
About the pumpkin seeds....I feed about 2T per huge French Lop each day for 10-14 days...they LOVE them. And my gals are in ground pens where they can pick up worms so that's why I worm them about 3 times per year. I just checked one doe's bottom to look for little visible pin (?) worms the other day after being on the ground all winter and no worms were showing! I had wormed about a month ago. Before I used pumpkin seeds there would always be those little white worms and I'd have to use a liquid chemical wormer.  I"m much happier with natural things if available.


----------



## Jesse L (Nov 6, 2008)

Ann Mary said:


> GSE can be purchased at a good health food store. The brand I buy is from Nutribiotic and it is called "The Original GSE'. It runs about $8-9 for 2 oz. and it lasts a LONG time for me...and I use it alot. Very concentrated. Behind the front label is a short list of how it can be used such as throat gargle, skin rinse, nail treatments (fungus) etc. It has MANY human/animal/ag uses. Look it up on line and you can read about it. I'm using it right now in the spray bottles I use on my plant seedlings to prevent dampening off and I'm using it now mixed with aloe vera gel on a cat fight wound on my cat. Do NOT use it straight externally!!! It is strong stuff!
> About the pumpkin seeds....I feed about 2T per huge French Lop each day for 10-14 days...they LOVE them. And my gals are in ground pens where they can pick up worms so that's why I worm them about 3 times per year. I just checked one doe's bottom to look for little visible pin (?) worms the other day after being on the ground all winter and no worms were showing! I had wormed about a month ago. Before I used pumpkin seeds there would always be those little white worms and I'd have to use a liquid chemical wormer.  I"m much happier with natural things if available.


Ok - so I just give my dwarf breeds a few seeds? Raw? Thats it? kool! Thanks!

Dose it get rid of all the worms?


----------



## SquashNut (Sep 25, 2005)

I would think you would need to give them the seeds twice 2 weeks apart to get rid of new worms that hatch from the eggs.


----------



## SquashNut (Sep 25, 2005)

The best cure for coccidiosis is bleach and elbow grese.
We are plaqued with it here. i have found the best way to keep it under control is to not use any thing wooden around my rabbits. You cann't get it out of wooden hutches no matter how hard you try. Short of allowing the hutch to dry with no animals for a week or 2 after cleaning it the best you can with bleach. From what i understand it cann't live in dry conditions.


----------



## Ann Mary (Nov 29, 2004)

Coccidia is always present in various levels at all times in rabbits (and poultry) or so I was told by the vet. He said that when the levels get too high that is when problems occur. If I had a continuous problem with it I would continuously run GSE in the water...starting out with the 10 drops per gal for 2 weeks and then 5 drops thereafter.
Also, as I was doing my chores this am I realized I had forgotten to list my most FAVORITE use for that GSE.....no pasty bottoms in chicks and no coccidia bloody stools! I've used strictly that for my chicks for about 5 years now and it works great...and I don't buy medicated chick feed either.
As to the raw pumpkin seeds getting 'all' the worms.....that I cannot say. And yes, a redose in 2 weeks is a great idea especially if it is the first time you've used the seeds. Just that in the 30+ years I've had rabbits I've tried various wormers...and pumpkin seeds work the best for me. I've not had a fecal count done on them..other than when I was getting advice from the vet on how to control it when a whole litter I had were sick/dying with 'jellied stools'.....I go by the softness/ glossiness of the coat etc. If I were showing the rabbits I'd go get a fecal done. But, for me, since the rabbits are large and healthy that's all I feel I need to do. I've had 4-H rabbit leaders ask me how I get the coats so nice...and I just say pumpkin seeds and flax seeds...but that's another topic.


----------



## SquashNut (Sep 25, 2005)

I couldn't see using some thing so expensive in my rabbitry all the time. The best treatment for coccidiosis is a good sanitation program. Bleach is cheap.
I read a study that was done in Saudia Arabia on coccidiosis and rabbits. they accually cured a out break of coccidiosis by cleaning the cages every week and the feeders daily.
When I had an out break i would move the rabbits to a new freshly cleanned wire cage, that had been allowed to sit empty for 3-4 days. This would stop the reproductive cycle. because the eggs have to leave the body and be consumed by the rabbits within a certain amount of time to hatch. The cocidiousis then lays there eggs and the cycle starts over again with the adullts doing their damage, laying the eggs and then dying.
If you want to put some thing in their water after the sulmet is used use Apple cidar vinegar. That would make sure the PH of the water doesn't allow the cocccidiosiss to live in drinking waters. And it is good for your rabbits any way.
All wire cages really help.


----------



## Patty0315 (Feb 1, 2004)

When using corid what is the dosage ?

Patty


----------



## Jesse L (Nov 6, 2008)

SquashNut said:


> I couldn't see using some thing so expensive in my rabbitry all the time. The best treatment for coccidiosis is a good sanitation program. Bleach is cheap.
> I read a study that was done in Saudia Arabia on coccidiosis and rabbits. they accually cured a out break of coccidiosis by cleaning the cages every week and the feeders daily.
> When I had an out break i would move the rabbits to a new freshly cleanned wire cage, that had been allowed to sit empty for 3-4 days. This would stop the reproductive cycle. because the eggs have to leave the body and be consumed by the rabbits within a certain amount of time to hatch. The cocidiousis then lays there eggs and the cycle starts over again with the adullts doing their damage, laying the eggs and then dying.
> If you want to put some thing in their water after the sulmet is used use Apple cidar vinegar. That would make sure the PH of the water doesn't allow the cocccidiosiss to live in drinking waters. And it is good for your rabbits any way.
> All wire cages really help.


Yes - I agree. Good sanitation plays a good factor in coccidia. 

I also think though, that treatment would be the best thing to cure it ( sulmet! ) - then, you want to keep everything clean, and it should stay out of your herd. 

The Coccidia has to get into the body by them eating there own waste as, like you said, the eggs leave the body, and need to be consumed by a certain time. So - wire bottum cages are the best thing to house rabbits in. As long as the poop falls threw, it can't get back into there body. 

Wondering, what dose the Apple Cider Vinigar do? How is it good for them?


----------



## SquashNut (Sep 25, 2005)

Jesse L said:


> Yes - I agree. Good sanitation plays a good factor in coccidia.
> 
> I also think though, that treatment would be the best thing to cure it ( sulmet! ) - then, you want to keep everything clean, and it should stay out of your herd.
> 
> ...


I think it's 3 tablesppoons per gallon of water. It has lot of trace minerals and some breeders use it when they are having a hard time getting their rabbits to breed.
I have also noticed there to be less of an amonia smell in my rabbitry from the urine when I am using apple cidar vinegar. It also helps keep water bottlea and crocks clean. I am hoping it keeps the water lines in my water system cleaner.


----------



## o&itw (Dec 19, 2008)

Patty0315 said:


> When using corid what is the dosage ?
> 
> Patty


Again, it was years ago that I used it, but if I remember correctly it came in a foil envelope and there were directions on the package for mixing it in water. The concentration worked for any animal because the level was controlled by the amount of water the animal drank. I never needed any medication for my own rabbits, but occasionally I would get a rabbit from somone that was not doing the best, and I was not affraid to use medications when I had an animal in quarantine. Once you get the breeds and stock you want, it is a whole lot safer not to add outside stock till one has to. (This applies to meat rabbits, I am not sure there is anyway around it if you are breeding for show.) Most all animals carry coccidia, and if the don't they will sooner or later pick it up if they have access to the ground. When I first raised rabbits, they warned about housing chickens and rabbits in the same building for that reason....I think that they have since shown the coccidia to be a different variety. The real key to success in any rabbitry is to keep the animals happy and healthy. Animals usually only succumb to Cocidiosis (and many other diseases) when they are stressed, in normal health their own immune systems will keep the germs at bay. Things like having a dog jumping at the fence near by and barking at them, being moved over distances or to a new rabbitry, sometimes even weaning will but them under stress. 

One can never be certain about rabbits brought in from another rabbitry. Even if they were raised under sanitary conditions there, the trip and the new environment are stressful until they adjust. Too many rabbitries have scuzzy feeders and waters that don't often get cleaned. Many people raise rabbits in hutches framed in wood which are almost impossible to keep sanitary. It is easy to let that sitting board or nestbox get soiled and then never cleaned properly... many people get by with this for a while, but sooner or later over the years it is going to come back and bite them.

I have not as yet started colony raising rabbits....I think that will require a whole new set of rules to do correctly. 

Guess I can take out the mangles I just planted and grow pumpkins.


----------



## Ann Mary (Nov 29, 2004)

Ann Mary said:


> For me,...grapeseed extract does the job well and is all natural. 10 drops in a gallon of water for 2 weeks...longer if there is a known bad problem. This also helps to worm them....along with raw pumpkin seeds. I regularly run grapeseed extract through their water at least 3 times a year and have no problems with cocc....and I use it when I bring in new stock as well. The usual dose is 10 drops when there is a problem and 5 drops for prevention.


It has been brought to my attention that I misspelled something inportant...it should be grapefruitseed extract and not grapeseed extract. Sorry about that.


----------



## ladysown (May 3, 2008)

> I think it's 3 tablesppoons per gallon of water. It has lot of trace minerals and some breeders use it when they are having a hard time getting their rabbits to breed.


 1 tbsp per gallon.


----------

