# Curing or Tanning rabbit pelts?



## lisa's garden (Apr 1, 2010)

Has anyone done this? Any suggestions?

I attempted this before and dried the hides out but I gave them away to friends who do pioneer reenactments. So I never completed the process. I would like to make something with them. Nice, white pelts from my NZW...should look good as a lap blanket or trim for something.

Thanks for ideas and suggestions.


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## Wisconsin Ann (Feb 27, 2007)

While I generally shy away from sending folks from one forum to another, we have a pretty good set of threads on Tanning over on rabbittalk : http://rabbittalk.com/rabbits-for-fur-f27.html Quite a few people from HT have contributed to it, and some who don't frequent HT. 

RiverPines is a former taxidermist, and gave me some invaluable help about doing an alum tan (non permanent) vs the permanent professional types That's in the "tanning this week" thread.


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## Truckinguy (Mar 8, 2008)

I tanned my first four hides last month and was pretty pleased with how they turned out for my first attempt. I used the alum/salt method and printed out the instructions from Mother Earth News. I put two or three gallons of water in a five gallon pail then put one cup each of salt and alum, then put the hides in. I let them soak for two days then pulled them out, rinsed them and squeezed them dry. I then fleshed them and the inner layer came off pretty good, a little more difficult around the neck and shoulder areas. I started at the tail area and started peeling and it came off mostly in one piece. A sharp knife helps in the difficult areas.

Then I added one more cup each of salt and alum then put them back in the pickle. After seven days I pulled them out, rinsed them and hung them up to dry. It's recommended at this point to wash them in a light detergent or shampoo which I didn't because I was impatient and missed reading that! When they're nearly dry but still damp I started to work them by pulling the hide in all directions in small areas at a time. It was really cool to see the leather turn white as I worked it and the more I worked it the softer it got.

Anyway, they turned out fairly good for my first attempt. One thing I learned is that how well you flesh them out affects how they look after being worked so a thorough fleshing is important. They aren't prime pelts to start off with but I learned the process and hope to improve on any future pelts.

As always I'm open to suggestions or criticism. Going to have four more to do soon....


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## lisa's garden (Apr 1, 2010)

Thanks for the info! I had read the alum/salt method and wondered how well it works...will try that and hope to read that post soon.

I'm trying to build up my 'herd' again. I butchered most of them when we were getting our house ready to sell and didn't want to turn people off to a subdivision home with over 30 rabbits in the back yard! We sold, moved to a small zoned ag property and now I'm adding 3 more does to the breeding stock. Should be plenty for our family and maybe trading for honey, etc.

Thanks again!


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## rabbithappy (Jun 24, 2009)

Trunkinguy, how old were the rabbits whose pelts you tanned using the salt & alum? I'm interested in trying this too, but won't have any adult pelts to work with.


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## Truckinguy (Mar 8, 2008)

They were about 14 weeks old, I butchered them and had the pelts there anyway so I decided to tan them. I don't have a specific purpose for the furs so if they can be used for something that's great but I'm not sure I want the cost of feeding them to adulthood just to get a better pelt. I"m raising them for meat so the fur is a secondary product, however it's always good to use as much of the animal as possible.

I have four that are overdue for the freezer for a couple of weeks now so hopefully those pelts will turn out better than the first! Too many projects going on around here at the same time....


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## rabbithappy (Jun 24, 2009)

When you were pulling the hides in all directions to soften it, did you have to rub oil into the hides as well, or is that just for thicker hides like deer & cow hides?


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## Truckinguy (Mar 8, 2008)

The instructions mention using mink oil as one of the final steps although I haven't done this as of yet, it also mentions using pumice or fine sandpaper to give the hides a soft feel. Unfortunately this project has dropped down the priority list rather quickly but I may oil them when I do the next four (when I get to them too!)


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

I wonder about fleshing the hides. I have read books that show little pictures of these giant logs that you lay the hide over to flesh.

how exactly do you flesh the hide? I mean it seems to me you would need 4 hands. I have also read things that say nail the hide to something, but rabbit hide is so thin, and the pulling from scraping and such would rip it right off the nails. I am not sure I want a bunch of tiny holes in my hides anyway.

also, should you wear gloves? is the alum going to rot your flesh off?


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## Truckinguy (Mar 8, 2008)

The instructions say to put the hides in the pickle for two days, then flesh. I found if I start right around the tail area the inner layer separates from the skin pretty easy and I just start peeling from there. It takes a bit of effort, mind you, and a sharp knife is a big help at some of the tougher areas. The next batch of hides I might try fleshing before they go in the pickle just to see if it is in fact easier after they've been in the pickle for two days or not.

Wearing gloves is a good idea. I fleshed the first hides with my bare hands which is easier than wearing gloves but my hands felt weird for the rest of they day and I had to wash them a few times to get them feeling normal again. I'll have to find some rubber or surgical gloves that protect my hands but are thin enough to give me enough dexterity and grip to pull the inner layer off the hide.


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## lisa's garden (Apr 1, 2010)

I was just talking to a friend who mentioned a friend who does brain tanning. He buys pork brains for tanning his hides, but mostly does deer hides. The idea was to stick to the way the native Americans did it. That sounds like a cool plan. Wondering if anyone else has tried that?

The first time I cured pelts, I fleshed them with a clam shell to see what it would be like...:hrm: That was interesting, but definitely not a productive use of my time!


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## MaggieJ (Feb 6, 2006)

A site about brain-tanning:

http://www.braintan.com/articles/furs/george1.html


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

so how do you hold on to the thing and scrape with both hands at the same time?

I assume the alum mix does not take off the hair?
would it work equally as well with other hides, or just rabbit?


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## rabbithappy (Jun 24, 2009)

When I was a teen, I tanned a steer hide using alum. It didn't take off the hair. There were other ingredients too, but I forget what it was. It may have just been salt, but not sure.


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## Nyx (May 13, 2006)

lonelyfarmgirl said:


> so how do you hold on to the thing and scrape with both hands at the same time?


Well, what I've seen has been sheep hides - but I don't see why it wouldn't work with rabbits:

Lay the hide over the fleshing beam, with some of it going over the end. Using your stomach, lean into the end of the fleshing beam while scraping away from yourself. I've also seen it kinda the opposite way, with the fleshing beam leaning against a tree, and a portion of hide trapped between the beam end and the tree trunk to hold the hide still. Once you get half done, rotate the hide and finish the rest.

Hmm...lemme see if I can dig up a pic somewhere...


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## rabbithappy (Jun 24, 2009)

Cool idea! Thats an interesting pic!


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## Truckinguy (Mar 8, 2008)

I didn't really do much scraping, mostly it peeled off in a layer. I had to scrape a little around the neck and shoulders area but I started at the tail area, held the hide in one hand and peeled with the other. Not quite as simple as it sounds and took a fair bit of effort but that's the basic idea.

The hair seems to be staying on the hides so far but it's only been a couple of weeks.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

I would think after a couple weeks, and the hair is still there, it isnt going to come off now.

I think I am going to get some alum and try this. any particular kind of salt?

would this work with other pelts? I have a skunk and a fox. both are complete with faces, ears and toenails.


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## lisa's garden (Apr 1, 2010)

Thanks for the brain tanning site! Gotta check that out.


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## ODINSWORN (Jun 8, 2010)

I picked up a used copy of "Tan your hide!", and they recommend starting on rabbit hides, since they are easy to come by and small, so you aren't out much when you make mistakes while learning. I found that very encouraging!


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

where would you purchase alum in a sufficient quantity? and what kind of salt?


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## MaggieJ (Feb 6, 2006)

Alum can be purchased at a tanning supply company or, sometimes, at bulk food stores where it is sold for pickling. If you have a chain called BulkBarn, try there. As for salt, you want Kosher or pickling salt - non-iodized.


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## lisa's garden (Apr 1, 2010)

Out of curiosity, why do you need the non-iodized salt? Anyone know?


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## Truckinguy (Mar 8, 2008)

I got both the alum and the pickling salt at Bulk Barn. The last time I was in there they had discontinued the pickling salt at my store! Asked them why, apparently it came from head office. I"m sure I can find it at any grocery store.

Not sure why it has to be non-iodized....


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## twohunnyz (Apr 27, 2006)

You can also find alum at many garden centers.

We have a few furs from about three years ago, still in fine shape. We use them mostly for display at shows. 

The fleshing is definitely the hardest part. Next time around we are going to rig some sort of fleshing beam. 

If we know we want to tan the skins, we try to time the litters so they'll be ready at the same time their winter coat is on. The skin is thicker=stronger, but the fur is more dense, too, making for a lovely plush finished fur. The younger the rabbit, the more delicate the skin, conversely the older the rabbit the thicker and more difficult the process. 

We definitely recommend all meat rabbit breeders try tanning their hides just once!


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## ODINSWORN (Jun 8, 2010)

Could we get a sticky on this maybe? Seems like this probably comes up a bit.


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## Truckinguy (Mar 8, 2008)

> also, should you wear gloves? is the alum going to rot your flesh off?


Just another thought on this, it's probably a good idea to wear gloves but Alum is the same stuff that is in antiperspirant, I apply that every day and my arms haven't rotted off yet...


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

right, I got a vandykes catalog and am going to talk to them about a safer product. I havent used deod for years, because I dont want the aluminum absorbing in to my skin. I also use alum free bakin soda. guess I didn't make the connection, duh!

I will post what I get when I get it.
I second the sticky request. I will also post results when the time comes.


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## KSALguy (Feb 14, 2006)

WAY OFF TOPIC but just as an aside, alum/aluminum has been found to contribute to Alzhimers, but they do make alum free deoderant, just have to read the lable lol


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## Truckinguy (Mar 8, 2008)

Maybe that's why I'm losing my memory.... and I thought I was just getting old! As usual, it's always wise to respect chemicals and handle them properly. I'll have to read up more on the fleshing beam. When my hides have been in the pickle for two days the inner layer stiffens up and I peel it off in one piece. It's a bit of work, mind you, but it comes off pretty good.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

yeah, I know about the non alum deod. I have some. I dont often need it.

anyway, I talked to a taxidermy guy from the catalog today, and he pushed the alum tan heavy. everytime I asked him about another option, he made such a big deal out of the alum tanning stuff they have. not really sure how to take it. 
I guess I will order some and start with that. 

I do have some pork brains in the freezer, but that requires smoking..what a pain.


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## Kyah (Oct 29, 2007)

I can't speak for the guy that you were talking to, but I'd guess that he pushed the alum because he likely considered it safer to use than the others. A lot of the chemicals that taxidermists use are pretty toxic, especially the acids. Many aren't even supposed to used in the house, only in a shop with a respirator. 

I used alum for the first pelts that I tanned, but I had some sort of strange reaction to it. So I've been using Ritell's saftee acid and ez-100, and I'm very happy with it. It's the only environmentally friendly tanning chemicals I could find, and it's a bit more affordable than buying alum. 

The salt I found pretty cheap though, I bought some at our local feed store. 88 lbs. for I think(?) $15. 

-Kyah


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

ez-100? I will have to research that. how did the pelts turn out?


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## Kyah (Oct 29, 2007)

They turned out pretty good. Nice and pliable, good stretch, just have to make sure that you don't over tan though. When they're finished, they kind of feel like swede leather, nice and soft. With the Ez-100 tan, the finished pelts are supposed to be washable after they're tanned. 

But I think the most important things though, no matter what type of tan that you're using, is to make sure the raw pelts are fleshed _really_ well, make sure there is no trace of fat left, and worked over as much as you can as they dry. 

Maybe I'll see if I can take a pic of one of the finished pelts to show you...


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## victory (Mar 2, 2010)

I didn't read through all these posts, but just in case it wasn't mentioned, there are easy to follow instructions on Mother Earth News, about tanning hides, simple way, easy for little ol me to follow, and less work!!
Just google Mother earth news tanning


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## luv2farm (Feb 15, 2008)

This is the ingredients on MEN for tanning hides. The directions are quite simple, except I have one question. What is the "bran flakes"? Is this cereal??

When you're ready to tan the skins, assemble the following:

7 gallons water
2 pounds (16 cups) *bran flakes*
16 cups plain or pickling salt (not iodized)
2 large plastic trash cans (30 gallon) and one lid
4 foot wooden stirring stick
3Â½ cups battery acid (from auto parts store)
2 boxes baking soda
wood rack or stretcher
neat's-foot oil
nails
wire bristle brush


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## RW kansas hogs (Nov 19, 2010)

does anybody skin there rabbits and put the hides on a stretcher to air dry,like a person would for a **** hide, then sell it to furbuyer?


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