# How I plant fruit trees



## TxGypsy (Nov 23, 2006)

This method ended up working better than I thought it would and I wanted to share. I drill 2 holes with the auger on the tractor and leave about a shovels worth of space between them. Then I dig that space between them as deep as I want the tree to set.... forming a cradle for the tree and soil that has formed around the roots from the pot. 

I fill the holes on either side with compost then remove the tree from the pot it was growing in and snuggle it down into the space created for it. This has several advantages. There is relatively loose rich soil that the roots should spread into quickly. Both holes become water reservoirs. Water will move down through the compost easily allowing me to water deeply. However there is still good firm soil on 2 sides to keep it steady.

I'll try to remember to get a picture of the tree sitting in place before I fill it in with compost today.

This is by far the easiest method I've ever used.


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## ksfarmer (Apr 28, 2007)

I was taught never ever use a post hole digger to plant trees. The roots will be hindered trying to penetrate the outside of the hole. A horticulturist told this in MG class and it showed up in personal experience with some pear trees I planted.


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## oneraddad (Jul 20, 2010)

It's also not good to add amenity's to your hole, because the roots get comfortable and don't spread out.


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## DEKE01 (Jul 17, 2013)

ksfarmer said:


> I was taught never ever use a post hole digger to plant trees. The roots will be hindered trying to penetrate the outside of the hole. A horticulturist told this in MG class and it showed up in personal experience with some pear trees I planted.


That is why neat round holes are bad. The roots move easily along the circular walls without penetrating them. In heavy soil like the OP photo, lots of broken edges in the walls of those holes would be better. 

As to amendments, I just planted 80 fruit trees and the nursery has a written policy that ANY amendments in the hole void the guarantee. But compost covered by mulch on top of the soil is good.


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## TxGypsy (Nov 23, 2006)

Guess I won't bother taking further pictures.


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## oneraddad (Jul 20, 2010)

I planted trees at the University of Nevada-Reno for years and have a very high success rate. Also make sure not to plant too deep, the top of the root ball cannot be planted below grade.


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## Callieslamb (Feb 27, 2007)

TxMex said:


> Guess I won't bother taking further pictures.


If what you are doing works - keep doing it. Are your tree roots circling the holes and the trees not growing? I always find it interesting that only a portion of the information is given as to the whys of doing something one way or another. Soil isn't the only consideration. Weather, time of year you plant - all are considerations but only type of soil is mentioned. In MY Master Gardener classes, I was told over and over that if what you are doing works, there is no reason to change it just because someone else has a different way of doing it. I'd say that's especially true if you're getting information online or from a magazine. Ever noticed that even in gardening articles from popular sites, they do not mention where they garden- they often say, "do this" or "do that". Gardening is very much a location issue. Did anyone hear that we're supposed to have our peas in the ground by March 17th? When I gardened in TN- that was too late. In MI, it's too early. But that's when I'm supposed to plant them because someone's granny said so. I have sandy soil. Our first year in MI, we had so much rain. My fruit trees loved it and grew very well. For the last 3 years, we've had almost no rain. My challenges are different than someone with heavy clay and a lot of rain. My planting practices will be different too. If it works, why change? If your fruit trees are having some problems, maybe you've discovered why.


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## Guest (Mar 19, 2014)

That is exactly the same method I used in planting my orchard, in fall of 2006. I did have one pear tree die, last year, after 3 years of fire blight, there was just nothing left! However, the other 40 some trees have thrived, and I get many comments about the prolific output. 

Your reasoning for not posting any further pictures is, sadly, valid. I've about stopped posting "how-to's" here(at HT) because if you show what actually works, people will criticize and tell you that it don't work. Either that or claim that you're just bragging. Well, that comes later, after you show them the fruit! by the way, here's one of mine I planted using the auger on my tractor, same as you, after 4 years. This is only 1 limb!!


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## K.B. (Sep 7, 2012)

if the soil has a good percentage of sand/loam, I don't see any reason the auger or amendments would cause a problem. In heavy clay soil, you can get a different result.

In any event, if someone is worried about roots being trapped in the planting hole, rough up the edges with the side of the shovel or point of a pickax.

There is a neat technique from Brad Lancaster's books, where he will auger or otherwise dig a deep hole near a tree planting site and fill it with waste paper or other organic material. Seems like a similar principle to your planting method.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

TxMex said:


> Guess I won't bother taking further pictures.



Please do, you might help someone else out.

I have had ppl look at me in sheer horror...saying: You do WHAT?
Hey if it works in one location and not others, nothing I can do about it. 
BUT if it can help just one other person..you are doing good 

I was also told, after I planted cherry trees here.. 
No they will never, grow much less fruit...to dang cold and not in this sandy soil.
I got loads cherries for canning, juice, etc. sitting on my shelves, from those trees that would not grow. 

We are all different, same as our soil, location, climate,etc is different. 

Good luck!


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

I think it's a great idea if it's working for you. Grandpa and I planted an orchard full of peach trees on light sandy soil using a post hole auger. Those peach trees lived and produced for several years. (peach trees in Ohio are short lived items, 20 years if you're lucky)

The only suggestion I would make would be to rough up the outer sides of your reservoir holes a little, unless your soil is mostly sand. It looks like loose sandy soil to me.


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## DEKE01 (Jul 17, 2013)

I'm someone who has recently written a couple of posts about too much negativity in HT. So I understand why some of you may not like comments that are not completely supportive of the idea in the OP. However, there are lots of things, even from MG's, that just isn't up to speed with the latest research. Lots of things our great-grandparents did on the farm are in a way better than the diesel fueled, chemical laden way some people operate today. But not in all cases. SOmetimes, just because that's the way you've been doing it all your life, it doesn't mean it is the best way. 

Until I sent in my order for those 80 fruit trees a few months ago, I had been throwing compost in the planting holes all my life. That's what I was taught was the smart way to get trees off to a good start. I didn't believe it when I was told not to, so I did some reading on extension and Ag school sites and learned why what I had been doing was generally wrong. Sure, my prior plantings had all done reasonably well, but that is a poor indicator. Would they have done better in the long run without neat round holes filled with compost? Unless I did a side by side test of multiple plantings, how could I know? So I went with the latest research, as well as the directions of the nursery for 70 of the trees and 10 I did the way I've always done. I guess I'm too stubborn to give up on the old way without a test to prove me wrong. 

So when someone posts an idea or demonstration photo of what they are doing and it doesn't fit with current best practices, what should responsible HT members do? Provide no comment? Sould there be a forum called Stuart Smiley's Positive Affirmations where folks only politely applaud no matter what info is posted? 

Just because not everyone agrees with your method does not mean that they think you are stupid, that your idea stinks. And if you are afraid to learn something new or hear a different opinion, why are you here?


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## Vash (Jan 19, 2014)

TxMex said:


> This method ended up working better than I thought it would and I wanted to share. I drill 2 holes with the auger on the tractor and leave about a shovels worth of space between them. Then I dig that space between them as deep as I want the tree to set.... forming a cradle for the tree and soil that has formed around the roots from the pot.
> 
> I fill the holes on either side with compost then remove the tree from the pot it was growing in and snuggle it down into the space created for it. This has several advantages. There is relatively loose rich soil that the roots should spread into quickly. Both holes become water reservoirs. Water will move down through the compost easily allowing me to water deeply. However there is still good firm soil on 2 sides to keep it steady.
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing. Would this method work for other types of trees besides fruit?


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## Guest (Mar 19, 2014)

Did some people not read that she drilled 2 holes, later filling them in with compost? She hand dug a hole between the 2 drilled holes in which to plant her tree. That does not mean that she drilled a hole and put the tree in the drilled hole. That means exactly what it says, she drilled 2 holes, then hand dug between then, then filled the drilled holes with compost and planted the tree in the hand dug hole.


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## DEKE01 (Jul 17, 2013)

zong said:


> Did some people not read that she drilled 2 holes, later filling them in with compost? She hand dug a hole between the 2 drilled holes in which to plant her tree. That does not mean that she drilled a hole and put the tree in the drilled hole. That means exactly what it says, she drilled 2 holes, then hand dug between then, then filled the drilled holes with compost and planted the tree in the hand dug hole.


And all I'm saying, and I think others as well, is that the compost is less than optimum, just use the same soil, and break up those smooth edges in those perfect holes. Other than that, I love the idea. Using the auger to make the job go faster and easier is wonderful, smart way to get the job done. Heck, I dig my planting holes with a backhoe sometimes. 

To the OP, a genuine thanks for getting the topic started.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

Okay, TxMex, now that you have certain factions quibbling amongst each other, you have to tell us, just how sandy is that soil??? It looks pretty sandy to me since I'm not seeing huge chunks of soil around the drilled holes.


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## WildPrGardens (Mar 8, 2014)

TxMex said:


> This is by far the easiest method I've ever used.



If you guys will notice less than half the circumference has been _compromised_. 

Anchor roots can go out in all four directions.

The soil amendments can help in the first couple critical years.

The absolutely most critical aspect of transplanting any plant is water availability, but trees need a huge amount.

This has been well provided for.

I see all the positives needed and very minor negative.

On a side note, I graduated from our state's Master Woodlands Manager program.
We did learn all the positive and negative ways of planting trees.

I give a big :thumb:s up.


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## Oxankle (Jun 20, 2003)

Tex; You are planting your trees exactly the way I planted my old dog Duke. I tried to get the holes to join, but learned that I could not dig two without leaving a partition between them. I had to work out that center by hand. When I got done Old Duke just fit and there is a patch of daffodils out there over him today. RIP Duke.


Ox


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## Prismseed (Sep 14, 2009)

It is a good technique, in certain soils with certain plants. If there was a single perfect method for everything we wouldn't really need this site would we?

Thank you for sharing.


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## Oxankle (Jun 20, 2003)

By the way; looks as if you have a nice place. Are those pipe racks in the picture? 

LOL, If you have a boat and maybe a camper you should post all those pictures over on singletree.


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

FWIW, here's how Stark Bros. recommends it:

http://www.starkbros.com/growing-guide/plant-manuals/fruit-trees/cherry-trees/bing-cherry

See the sidebar, "Planting"

Again, only FWIW, not being critical or otherwise......

geo


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## TxGypsy (Nov 23, 2006)

I'm always open to constructive criticism and adult dialog. Destructive criticism and jumping right in the middle of me is something I do not deserve. 

Yes this is very nice sandy loam soil. I did not go into fine details as I figured folks could tell a lot from the picture I posted. I like to give folks credit for having enough brains to figure out common sense things. 

As to compost being bad for trees....what in the heck is in the pots they are growing in?! If it isn't compost it is danged close. Well made compost will not hurt any type of plant or tree. I suppose if it had lots of fresh uncomposted(which means it isn't compost yet) hot manure there might be a problem.

Since planting, my fruit trees are almost exploding with new leaves. I recently reworked the little earthen dams I put around them to hold and concentrate water. I mulched to help kill out grass and hold a more even moisture level. 

Here is a picture of a tree that has been removed from the outer pot and placed into the cradle I dug for it to sit in.


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## TxGypsy (Nov 23, 2006)

Oxankle said:


> By the way; looks as if you have a nice place. Are those pipe racks in the picture?
> 
> LOL, If you have a boat and maybe a camper you should post all those pictures over on singletree.


What pipe racks? 

Ox if I posted pictures of all of my toys I'd have to put up some of those ropes on poles like they use at theaters to organize the men that would be lining up


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## TxGypsy (Nov 23, 2006)

Vash said:


> Thanks for sharing. Would this method work for other types of trees besides fruit?


I don't know why it wouldn't work for just about anything that needs a large reservoir area. I'll be planting some ornamentals using this method. I'd also think that one hole could be drilled, filled with compost and then a niche could be dug to the side of the hole to plant the tree into if for some reason you didn't want to dig the two holes.

Something else with placing compost in the augered holes.....it will attract earthworms.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

I could tell by looking but it was pretty obvious some other people couldn't. That really is a great method for planting in sandy soils. It would never work here but for sandy soil it would get that little tree off to a wonderful start.


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## Oxankle (Jun 20, 2003)

LOL, Tex;
I'm gonna put in a good word for you over on POF.
Ox


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## TxGypsy (Nov 23, 2006)

I'm not signed up on POF, but thanks for the kind thought Ox.


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## oneraddad (Jul 20, 2010)

Did you know theres an Industry Standard on how to plant a tree ? It says to leave the soil as close to native as possible. But, if you must add something, don't add more than 10% by volume. 

Just because adding compost works, doesn't mean it's ideal.

http://thegrove.americangrove.org/profiles/blogs/ansi-a300-adds-national-standard-for-tree-planting


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## Oxankle (Jun 20, 2003)

Tex; the steel objects beside the road in picture #2. They look like oil field pipe racks, but are obviously not strong enough for that. 

What are they? 
Ox


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## TxGypsy (Nov 23, 2006)

Oxankle said:


> Tex; the steel objects beside the road in picture #2. They look like oil field pipe racks, but are obviously not strong enough for that.
> 
> What are they?
> Ox


:shrug: My 2nd picture is of the tree placed into the cradle I made for it. All I see is 2 holes and the tree in the middle.


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## Vash (Jan 19, 2014)

oneraddad said:


> Did you know theres an Industry Standard on how to plant a tree ? It says to leave the soil as close to native as possible. But, if you must add something, don't add more than 10% by volume.
> 
> Just because adding compost works, doesn't mean it's ideal.
> 
> http://thegrove.americangrove.org/profiles/blogs/ansi-a300-adds-national-standard-for-tree-planting


Can't the same be said about that industry standard?


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## oneraddad (Jul 20, 2010)

No, it's proven that compost in your tree hole is outdated.


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## TxGypsy (Nov 23, 2006)

I am not sure why my putting compost around my trees seems to upset you so much. I'm not asking you to put compost around your trees. 

If it makes you happier you can just chalk it up to me using my female perogative


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## K.B. (Sep 7, 2012)

oneraddad said:


> No, it's proven that compost in your tree hole is outdated.


For all species of tree, all rootstocks, in all soil types, across all climates?

If I were planting a commercial orchard in an area with deep, high quality soil, I wouldn't even consider adding compost in the planting hole. 

Many landowners/homesteaders have less than ideal conditions to work with in terms of soil and the planting location is far from where academic or commercial trials have been conducted.

Generalizing methods across the board is not ideal, for me, in my opinion


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## oneraddad (Jul 20, 2010)

If I wanted bee advise, I'd ask you Tex. Trees have been my major source of my income since 1982. 

I'm just informing, you decide.


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## Vash (Jan 19, 2014)

oneraddad said:


> If I wanted bee advise, I'd ask you Tex. Trees have been my major source of my income since 1982.
> 
> *I'm just informing,* you decide.


No, you're antagonizing.


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## oneraddad (Jul 20, 2010)

All the trees in the UNR arboretum were under my care, I'm not going on just my experience, the State of Nevada educated me about trees. 


http://www.unr.edu/arboretum/


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## Vash (Jan 19, 2014)

oneraddad said:


> All the trees in the UNR arboretum were under my care, I'm not going on just my experience, the State of Nevada educated me about trees.
> 
> 
> http://www.unr.edu/arboretum/


Do those trees under your care include TxMex's trees?

Her method works for her, so obviously she is doing something right even without the advice of the State of Nevada...


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## oneraddad (Jul 20, 2010)

I'm sorry I introduced facts


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Am I the only one who noticed you were wearing flip flops and had polish on your toenails? :happy: BTW, good job planting.


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## TxGypsy (Nov 23, 2006)

Darren said:


> Am I the only one who noticed you were wearing flip flops and had polish on your toenails? :happy: BTW, good job planting.


LOL....I didn't realize my toes were in the picture until I posted it. What you can't see are the tiny little speckles of lavender from the spray painter while I was painting bee hive tops ound:


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## DEKE01 (Jul 17, 2013)

K.B. said:


> Generalizing methods across the board is not ideal, for me, in my opinion


Generalizing is pretty much a requirement in HT. Unless we have an extremely detailed list of 100% of the conditions affecting a given topic, which I doubt is truly possible, we must generalize. In another thread I asked for advice about installing an irrigation system. If I refused to learn from generalized info, it would be a complete waste of my time to ask the question and a waste of time for anyone to respond.

No one is saying the OP is a bad person for adding compost, it was just pointed out that the latest scientific research shows that it is generally not a best practice. 

As to the OP's appeal to use common sense, I have to disagree on that. Absent any other wisdom or information, common sense, asking the local old timer for advise is great. However, many of the methods popularized in the 1900s, the ways our grandfathers and great-grandfathers used to success, we are now finding are less than a best practice in many cases. One example, tillage was the common sense way, but now we know it is often detrimental to long term soil health. 

That doesn't mean I always take a university extension agent's advice over the local old timer's. USDA advice has been wrong MANY times. Often the old timer is going to know some local aspect that the extension agent does not. I respect the experienced folk out there, which is why I come to HT in the first place. I try to keep an open mind.


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## K.B. (Sep 7, 2012)

I totally understand your point, DEKE01, and agree that often times a generalized approach is a good place to start. However, if you'll look back at my posts in this thread, my stance regarding amendments in planting is that it depends on specific conditions which include soil type, climate, rootstock, species of tree, etc... 

As a scientist, I understand how "best practices" are established and become standardized.

Again, just my opinion, based on my experience and knowledge. Feel free to ignore or take something useful away from it.


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

I don't plant a lot of trees but know a bit about how they grow. As a result, I see a major potential problem with the Texas method. It's telling the tree to send out its first main roots exactly opposite each other. I know that some trees will direct their roots into the richest or moistest soil. If a tree developed only 2 perpendicular anchor roots, it would be subject to instability during high crosswinds later on. Personally, I'd go with 3 or 4 holes to give the trees a better chance of developing a uniform root system.

Martin


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## DEKE01 (Jul 17, 2013)

K.B. said:


> I totally understand your point, DEKE01, and agree that often times a generalized approach is a good place to start. However, if you'll look back at my posts in this thread, my stance regarding amendments in planting is that it depends on specific conditions which include soil type, climate, rootstock, species of tree, etc...
> 
> As a scientist, I understand how "best practices" are established and become standardized.
> 
> Again, just my opinion, based on my experience and knowledge. Feel free to ignore or take something useful away from it.


I guess I don't understand all the heat directed at those of us who have respectfully disagreed with the OP's methods being optimum. A few of us also offered opinions based on experience and knowledge that folks are free to ignore or take away something useful.


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## K.B. (Sep 7, 2012)

No heat from me. Just trying to offer what I hope is useful info.


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