# Lining



## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

When making a dress, what is the best way to add lining?

To me it would just seem simple enough to edgestich each individual piece, but Ive made a couple things where it will have me sew the fabric and the lining seperate, then join them, but that was for a project that included straps


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

Usually with straps on a bodice.

Make the outer, make the lining - put the lining right side to outer fabric right side pin along the top neck/sleeve edge instering the straps front and if possible back between the two. when you sew around the top neck/sleeve area, the straps get sewn in.

turn the lining/fashion fabric right sides out, and the straps should be right there for you. Looking good. many times a close to edge top stitch will be done around the top neck/sleeve area. That will reinforce the straps being sewn in also.

If you have to adjust the straps - do so by leaving that part un sewn down (slots for the straps) until you can fit them. Then sew inside out, then flip to right side out. Or at least the right side out top stitching.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

What if there are no separate straps? Can I just edge stitch?


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

you have no facing if you have a lining.
just edgestitching the edges will make it look not good.

You can do anything you want in making a garment - just some will look much better than others.

Your instructions will tell you how to do it right by them.

But if you want to try it turned under the edges - go ahead.
We all learn what we like by doing.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

The pattern does not call for lining.. The material is just thin and would be slightly see through, I was just trying to make it more opaque


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

Can you post a picture of the dress (pattern)? If it has facing, then I'd make the lining in place of the facing. Though if it has sleeves, I'd use the lining to face the neck edge, and then treat it as one piece for sewing the sleeves. If it has a collar and sleeves, then I'd treat it a second layer of fabric and sew them together as one. And there may also be the possibility of making a slip to wear under the dress instead of a lining.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)




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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

When I was talking about edge stitching I was thinking something like this tutorial...

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNEderzgBVw[/ame]

I just dont know how adding a lining would come into play with seam allowances


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## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

Okay, if you pattern has facing and doesn't call for a lining, but you want one, here is what I would do. (WARNING: Victorian technique ahead!)

Cut out all of your pattern pieces in the lining fabric. 

For the bodice pieces: flat line. Lay the lining fabric right side up on top of the wrong side of each bodice piece. Pin flat, then stitch around the edge with 1/4" seam allowance or serge, if you are lucky enough to have a serger. 

For the skirt: Construct both skirts separately, then sew together along top and placket edge, if applicable. You will likely end up wanting to hem the skirt lining a bit shorter than the dress-- about two inches at least. 

From this point on, you treat the skirt as one skirt sewn together in pattern, and all flatlined bodice pieces as a single bodice piece when sewing together the dress. Just follow their directions and go! Bonus: flatlining the bodice will give the material a little more body, and make you finished result less flimsy, wrinkly, and less apt to bunch up while wearing.

Let me know if you have questions.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Thanks Svenska!
I do have a couple vocabulary questions ..

You said to flat line.. I googled and came up with this
http://sartamexicana.blogspot.com/2009/09/active-stitcher-technician-spend-so.html
Same thing you are talking about?

What is the placket edge?


Do I sew the pleats on the skirt with fabric and lining together? 

And lastly.. the lining on the inside of the skirt will be free or should it be sewn into the seam allowance when I finish off the bottom??


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

Do you want the accent binding trim?

If so, I'd use the lining to face the arm openings. 

I'd sew the bodice together (one lining, one fabric) and leave the underarms open. Then I'd put them together and sew the armhole opening, turn and press and then sew the entire under arm seam as one long seam. Then press, topstich if desired (or understitch if not and then put on the binding and finish.

Though if you did not want the accent binding, then I'd do it dfferently as I'd use the lining to face the neck/back opening too.

I've done a lot of work on men's suits, so I have a tendency to deal with lining a bit more like suits/vests are done. 

In the end, as long as you get the look you want, how you get there isn't as important.


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## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

Yes, Sarah, that's what I mean, more or less, about flat lining! It gives your fabric body and opacity.  

As for skirt placket, well, I was referring to the bit of the back center seam that's open from waist to hip so you can get into it, though on second look, you maky not have a placket in that pattern. If so, ignore my gibberings about plackets and just sew two skirts and sew together along the top.


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