# Feeding Meat Rabbits?



## Struyksrus (Dec 31, 2013)

I have had rabbits as pets before but always in large colony type cages on free choice pellets and grass.

Recently we decided to start raising meat rabbits to sell.

We bought a few rabbits to get us started. Then I started reading online and realized that I needed to raise these rabbits differently then I raised rabbits in the past. 

I divided the rabbits up based on size, sex, and what I want them for.
I am wondering what I should be feeding each cage. I don't know the exact ages of most of the bunnies. I got them from a backyard breeder just to get us started and plan to buy better bunnies as we get more money.

Cage 1- Light grey Flemish Giant Buck, about a year old (breeder)

Cage 2 - Dark grey/black Doe. Suppose to be a New Zealand but I think she is a cross, proven breeder. On the heavy side. Open and ready to be rebred.

Cage 3 - Brown Doe. Raising a litter of four week old babies. Nine babies in the litter.

Cage 4 - Four, seven week old, males. Being raised to sell for meat.

Cage 5 - Two, five to six week old males. I don't know the exact ages. Being raised for meat.

Cage 6 - One, five to six week old male. He was smaller then the other two and was so weak when we got him that he couldn't stand. We put him in his own cage on a bed of shavings with water, pellets, and alfalfa hay to eat. Three days later he is jumping around and starting to gain weight.

Cage 7 - Three, seven week old females. I am raising them up and will pick the best one or two to keep as breeders.

I am feeding them rabbit pellet and alfalfa hay. I don't know how much to feed to each rabbit/each cage or if I should be getting a bale of timothy hay for the breeders. 

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

I feed my adult non-working cali/NZ rabbits 5 ounces of pellets per day. Working does and grow out rabbits are free fed. They get some timothy hay(I do not use alfalfa) but not every day. At this feed rate---my does are healthy and seem to breed without problems. If you give much more feed than this to your non-working rabbits---they will probably get to heavy and harder to breed.


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## Struyksrus (Dec 31, 2013)

What should I feed young rabbits being raised for breeding instead of for meat?


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

Struyksrus said:


> What should I feed young rabbits being raised for breeding instead of for meat?


 All my rabbits eat out the same bag----Its been working good since I got my first rabbits in 1977. Young rabbits just get free fed---all they want---till they get adult size. Sure I give them all some treats when I have some.


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## Country10 (Aug 16, 2015)

If your feeding pellets & alfalfa you need to ensure the pellets are low in protien or do one or the other. 
We give ALL our rabbits the same pellets 15% protien (you can use higher but cut out the alfalfa)
We give all rabbits not pregnant or lacktating 4 OZ a day with all the free choice hay they want - we DONOT feed alfalfa due to high protien pellets.
Any pregos or does with kits get as much pellets and hay as they want. We have attached feeders so on these i fill up and when its gone i refill. (these hold about 42 OZ)
For all the rabbits we ensure they also get fresh leafy greens. Parsely, spinach, kale, etc.. If you have not started this or do this use extrem caution with does with kits already.
We have mixed meat breeds with very large litters (8-9). We have never had any issues with their weight or growing (for the kits).
We have 4 does (breeders) and 2 bucks, and all stages of kits. We keep everyone on the same feed and feeding cycle. Makes for a much more enjoyable time when with them. 
Keep your feeding simple will make it easier on you.

Best of luck.


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## Struyksrus (Dec 31, 2013)

So if they have a high protein pellet then I should not feed then alfalfa? I have only given handfuls of it to the non working breeders. I give a larger handful to the cages with 5-8 week old bunnies twice a day and I give the lactating doe with her nine 4 week old babies a very large handful whenever they are done what I gave them last time


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## Struyksrus (Dec 31, 2013)

They came from a farm and had unlimited pellets and a wire hay feeder always stuffed with whatever hay he had laying around. 

I can get some nice grass hay to few to then if that would be better. But I thought the alfalfa would be better for raising babies...


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## Annika (Jun 4, 2011)

Pregnant does (past... 20 days, I think?), lactating does, and young litters growing out (up til they're getting close to adult size) should be on free feed pellets. A cup of pellets a day for the others is a decent rule of thumb if you don't have a scale (for standard meat-breed size; your Flemish will need more). Just keep an eye on your rabbits; run a hand over their back periodically to make sure their condition is good. Some rabbits may need a bit more or less than others. I feed 18% protein pellets to everybody. Pregnant/lactating does and young litters need 18 or 19% total protein, ideally. A bit more won't hurt but isn't especially useful; less makes it hard to keep breeding does in condition, if you're breeding intensively (I do) and makes the kiddos grow out a touch slower. Offer grass or timothy free-feed.

I don't think there's anything wrong with giving your lactating does and fryers a bit of alfalfa with a high-protein pellet, but you don't really need to. Too much alfalfa can cause problems with calcium, I believe. It's also just a waste of money. If your rabbits are getting 17-19% protein, they may as well get their fiber from a cheaper source (e.g. grass hay). 

Because I feed tons of fresh/wild greens, everybody gets alfalfa, too, because I figure the greens bring down their overall protein level. I also supplement with BOSS, oats, and the occasional carrot or end of wheat bread. So I probably feed about half the usual amount of pellets. Honestly, you'll figure out what works for you and your individual rabbits. Don't stress. Just keep an eye on your individual rabbits. You should handle them regularly anyway so that they'll be accustomed to it; get used to the way their back and spine feel. You should be able to feel the spine, but it shouldn't be sharp or prominent. I really only ever worry about my bucks getting fat. I keep my does on intensive breed-back schedules, so I just worry about them losing condition. 

Your heavy doe should be on restricted feed until you get her pregnant, by the way (extra weight on does makes it hard for them to conceive). And you can feed your young rabbits the same whether they're breeders or destined for the freezer.


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## Struyksrus (Dec 31, 2013)

Ok. I have a bag of rabbit pellets that is 16% that is the same thing they were eating when we bought them. Turns out we buy our feed at the same place. He fed them free choice hay. Sometimes grass hay, sometimes alfalfa. They were on a dairy farm with sheep and cows and just threw whatever loose hay they had laying around onto the center of a double row of cages. The rabbits pulled it down through the cage to eat it as they wanted it


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## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

we fed pellets or high quality alfalfa hay to the breeders and once the young were weaned they went on pasture in tractors supplemented with some pellets.
We didn't breed through the winter so the breeders got grassy hay.


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## ChocolateMouse (Jul 31, 2013)

I like to feed 18% pellets to everyone. I also feed a bit less than most folks (about 3/4-1c depending on the bunny) but I free-feed 2nd cutting timothy, orchard alfalfa mixed hay, about equal parts of all three. This hay is chock full of nutrients and could even be fed as an exclusive diet with a mineral block and some weeds or veggies every day. I estimate it's got about 15%-18% protein. given when it was cut and such. Works great.

The big thing about bunnies is lots of fiber, not too much calcium, enough protein to grow on. Good luck!


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