# Best way to break new ground?



## bluemule31 (Nov 30, 2011)

What's the best way to break new ground? I'm doing it right now with a rear tine tiller and it's very slow-go and I'm not getting much depth. My neighbor however, has generously offered me use of his little Kubota and I do have access to some implements. What is the process I should follow to get it to the stage that it's worked well enough (the soil) to then bring in my tiller and then lay off my rows? Disc first, bottom plow, chisel plow? All advice welcome.


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## EDDIE BUCK (Jul 17, 2005)

A chisel plow will get it so you can handle it.Then disk until smooth and its tiller time.I doubt a breaking plow will go in the ground if its very hard soil.But chiseling now,next spring a breaking plow will do the trick.Then disk and plant.....Just my two cents


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

I'd try the bottom plow first just to see if it will turn the sod over.
If it does, then you can go over it with the disc to even it out more

A chisel plow will still leave a lot on the surface.

A lot will depend on the soil type/conditions, and the power of the tractor


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## Kazahleenah (Nov 3, 2004)

Yet another reason I dislike our rear tine tiller. I have to use it because I sent my front tine to my daughter for her to use. 

I second the plow... OR if you know someone with a tiller on their tractor, those are pretty nice to.


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## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

We set the rear tine tiller shallow and scraped off the sod layer with it. Raked that all off and set it aside. Then a few passes with the tiller over the bare ground.
By the next time we expanded I had bought a tractor and plow and life was so much easier.......


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## woodsy (Oct 13, 2008)

New ground with established sod is best btm plowed in the fall in many cases which gives the sod a chance to break down on its own before the following planting season. This is the easiest way IMO and a good time to test the PH of the soil and add any lime if necessary also. Lime takes many months to start working Disc harrow shortly after plowing in the fall or in the spring when dry enough.


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

Depends a lot on the size of the area that you are trying to do. Depends also on your rototiller and what kind of surface vegetation you are working with. The size of the area, and the turnaround space, if it is small, won't allow a very big tractor or plow into it. The bigger the plow, the larger the beginning, dead furrow space you will have before the plow bites enough--same way when the plow pulls out at the end of the pass--you'll still have to rototill a lot of that area anyway. 

The Kubota might be an option, only if the moldboard plow is big enough to go deep enough to do any good. A small plow will just give you four to six inches of vegetation and roots to till--and you will still want to rototill deeper to loosen the compaction below.

A rear tine rototiller will only churn away in the roots and vegetation because the tiller blades aren't sharp enough to cut through it--the vegetation just catches on the tines, makes padding, and goes round and round. One way to help this is to scalp your ground first to remove any top vegetation, then rake it away or burn it. You will still have the roots, but it should go easier.

In heavy, first tilled ground or clay, the rototiller will go only down to the tine shaft at best on the first round. If you have eight inch diameter tines, you'll get about three inches of depth. You will have to give it a rest, then try again when the top dries out a bit.

geo


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## Ky-Jeeper (Sep 5, 2010)

Sub soiler with decent sized tractor first. If you decide on bottom plowing, when finished plowing the lenght of your garden just plow the ends cross ways two or three passes. Use a drag to level out, disk and till.


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