# Wire Cage Size?



## madera_dave

Hello, I am going to start raising New Zealand Whites as meat rabbits. I was wondering what size wire cage should I start buying?

Thanks,

Dave


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## Fat Man

We use 36"x30" for our calis.


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## madera_dave

Do you only keep one in the cages?


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## lonelyfarmgirl

Size can vary per your circumstance. Yes, one adult rabbit per cage. 
30X36 is ideal, but I personally don't like cages that large for one 10 pound adult. They spend most of their time hiding in the corner. Mostly, for a rabbit that size, I have 24X24's. I also have some that are 20X32. That is rather odd, but I think they were custom. The advantage is, since they are long and narrow, I can put in a nest box and there is enough room for the rabbit to stretch flat out beside the box.

I have even, in a pinch, housed in 18X24 when I had no other option. Yeah, a bit too small, but the rabbit got over it.

I have one 3 stacker that is 30X36, and I use it as a cull pen, 5 growing fryers to a cage.

There is also a 24X30 or 24X36 option if you think 24X24 is too small.


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## PD-Riverman

madera_dave said:


> Do you only keep one in the cages?


Yea you need to keep adults---one per cage. Before finding out most breeders keep their pregnant females in 30x 36" cages, I kept all my rabbits in a 24x24x24 cages---a mom with several week old babies I would let them have 2 joining cages. I still have My 16 rabbits in 24x24x24 cages, but I am building a new set-up---worked on it today. It will have 36x30 for moms and 30x30 for males an unpregnant females. I will also use the 24x24x24 for young rabbits. I never had a problem keeping them in the smaller cages but I decided to give them more room. Good Luck


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## akane

I use 30"x36", 30x42", 30x48", 24x48".... I found my meat buck can't even lay down in a 24x24. He has to always lay in a curve. We scrapped the 24x24" cages and made the same number of cages but near doubled their space and widened some of them. Maybe for smaller adults 24x24 works but it's not going to work for does with kits wandering around and when you put in a nestbox it will take up near half the cage with the feeder sticking part through the other half. Better to get 36 or 48" cages for the breeding does and usually I see 24x48" for big bucks who are breeding frequently so 2 rabbits fit in the cage while breeding. Cages where you can pull a divider work great. I like the 30" wide cages for fitting everything since I don't cut my cages and put all feeders on the inside (I'm always moving things around) but it's right at the limit I can reach and I can't fill the hay feeder of the top 30" wide cage without standing on things. 24" wide cages are easier to reach and handle rabbits.


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## madera_dave

Wow, it looks like I need various sizes. I bought a 30 x 30 today, one of my non meat does had babies. I will try to get various sizes and go from there. Thanks to all of you for your assistance.

Dave


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## lonelyfarmgirl

honestly, unless you are rolling in loot, I wouldn't sweat making sure you have 'specific' sizes. Every cage I own I either bought second hand, got given to me, or in two cases, out of the dumpster. I have never owned a new cage.
Cages are expensive. I have a price limit. If I am in the market for cages, and I find some good used ones in my price range, I buy them. That is how I ended up with the 20X30's. I got them for 5$ each. Who could pass that price up!

I think the most I ever paid was 10$ a hole, with the exception of my 30X36. I got it for 50$ with dura-trays and it was VERY new. That was a steal. 
I worry about price and condition first, size second. Even the smaller ones will hold a junior for a while.

What is your non-meat doe? All bunnies taste delicious.


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## scpankow

I think a pretty good rule of thumb is 30 x 36 for breeding does, 24 x 30 for open does, bucks and growouts. Make sure that they are wider, rather than deeper. And that the door openings are large so that you can reach the corners of the cages with no difficulty. That being said, if you come across a deal on good quality cages that don't fit those specs, why not? We don't see many good quality cages second hand here. So I have either built or had mine built for me to my specifications.


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## madera_dave

Ordered my cages today, Thanks for all of your help!!

Dave


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## birdman1

Im a fan of the 30x 36 x 18 the rabbits have plenty of room (mine are NZW and some CALs) Iv found that keeping them all the same size makes them more interchangable and usefull when useing all differint sizes you call one the buck cage one for this doe or the other when buying new cages you can get them all the standardsize shiped 3 to a box and just have to assemble them .this keeps your rabbit raiseing setup looking so much neater and if (when) you want to start using auto watering it makes it easyer to set up


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## cantwait

I don't mean to be insulting to anyone, so forgive me in advance.

I'm seeing all the same answers for the same question when I started. After I built mine someone posted something very important. I went outside and tested their theory. They were right and I ripped them apart and started over.

A 100% agree with them only being 24" deep. Any bigger and their harder to clean and catch the rabbit. 

My Doe cages are 36" wide and my bucks are 24' wide.


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