# Dehumidifier



## Ciffer (Sep 13, 2010)

I couldn't really find a good forum to list this in but I think it may apply here. I am trying to cut my energy use to make being off-grid more achievable. Right now the biggest single user in my house is the dehumidifier in my basement. I store things in my basement, guns, food etc and don't want rust/mold. Are there any ways to keep a basement dry without running a dehumidifier?


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## PD-Riverman (May 24, 2007)

Ciffer said:


> I couldn't really find a good forum to list this in but I think it may apply here. I am trying to cut my energy use to make being off-grid more achievable. Right now the biggest single user in my house is the dehumidifier in my basement. I store things in my basement, guns, food etc and don't want rust/mold. Are there any ways to keep a basement dry without running a dehumidifier?


Making sure there is no water staying in the basement. exchanging alot of warm air from the outside the house into the basement will help either through a basement window or venting. Moving things that will rust into the main part of the house will help. I would never keep my Guns in a basement even with a dehumidifier.


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## Ky-Jeeper (Sep 5, 2010)

UGL - DRYLOKÂ® Masonry - Masonry Waterproofer


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## Jim-mi (May 15, 2002)

Insulating inside and outside your basement walls would help.
2" of foam inside AND outside would make a difference you wont believe.

Of course it would not be a lot of fun digging down the outside walls . . .but then who said it would be easy............
And while you have the outside dug up you could apply a good water proffer....

More than a buck and a half for the foam and digging labor but the results will amaze you...........

..


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## Ciffer (Sep 13, 2010)

That Drylock stuff looks like a good place to start considering that my basement is a block foundation, about half of it has plastic sheeting on the interior with foam and crappy sheetrock over it. I have pulled some of it out to update the wiring. Nothing pretty about the basement, just a basement. The floor is poured concrete, half of it had commercial tile which has been removed but would require clean up of the adhesive before the floor could be covered with anything. 

Humidity is a big problem around here (southeast MN). Would guns stored in a main floor room be at less risk of rusting than where they are now?

I guess the food doesn't matter as it is all in mylar-lined buckets, jars or cans, temp fluctuation is more of a concern than the humidity.


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## Ky-Jeeper (Sep 5, 2010)

I second the insulation now knowing you live in a humid area. So if you don't have drainage issues around your home, insulating your basement is the best step. Your cool basement could be condensating like a cold can of coke setting outside on a warm humid day so to speak.


Jim-mi said:


> Insulating inside and outside your basement walls would help.
> 2" of foam inside AND outside would make a difference you wont believe.
> 
> Of course it would not be a lot of fun digging down the outside walls . . .but then who said it would be easy............
> ...


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## Ciffer (Sep 13, 2010)

I don't get more than a little water during big storms so water in the basement isn't an issue. I have a tuck under garage so some moisture gets in thag say too. I have cement walkways on all side so digging to the outside of the foundation isn't really an option but I can start with Drylock and foam on the walls. Anyone know if those epoxy floor coatings work for blocking moisture?


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## PD-Riverman (May 24, 2007)

Ciffer, I sent you a private message.


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## Jim-mi (May 15, 2002)

The outside is where you really need to get to......

You can put on the epoxy, . .But it will soon start flaking off . . .because of the moisture coming through the walls.......
Anything you put on the inside walls will not stop the problem..........

And your "side walks" around the building are helping to trap moisture.........

Properly insulated the radical temperature swings would be gone . . . . .the basement would be warm and dry enough to store your firesticks . . with out rust.


And your electric bill would go down a bunch because of not needing the dehumidifier.

Insulation is a win win thing...........


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## jross (Sep 3, 2006)

I heard an advertisement regarding the Humidex system installed by a local outfit in one's basement that eliminates the noise and heat from a dehumidifier.
Investigating via the net revealed by one person who posed as a prospective dealer for the system that the unit costs $350 from Humidex and one can charge $1300 for the system. All it seems to be is a fan in a duct vented to the outside controlled by a humidistat. A vent to the basement is created from the living space to supply dry air from the central ac. I got a 6 ft piece of 4 inch galvanized duct for $8, a 6 inch duct fan $24, Two 4/6 inch adapters for $6, a dryer vent for $12, a humidistat for $30, and a battery powered humidity/temp digital indicator for $ 9 at Walmart, plus two electrical boxes, one for an outlet and one for the humdidstat. I didn't have to buy a 4 inch hole saw because the guy that hunts our land gave me a brand new one, but I could have cut the hole for the dryer vent with a sawzall or my sonicrafter. I cut two holes in the basement entrance wall sheetrock and shoved in two heat registers, removing one damper, which suplies cool air from the living space. I taped off part of the bottom of the duct and drilled about 8, 1/4 inch holes at three levels in the duct. The fan is installed at the very top of the duct at the dryer vent. Our basement gets some water at times 4-5 gal at the most, but with all the junk down there, smells musty. Presently, after the unit running steady for a week, the musty smell is gone and the humidity is holding between 54 and 59 percent, the duct fan cycling as needed. Now to wait for the electric bill which should be less because the dehumidifer is not running.


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## Ciffer (Sep 13, 2010)

I have decided to do a number of things to help my moisture problem although I can't do all right at the moment. I am currently working on cleaning my block walls (the ones that aren't painted) and then attempt to strip the paint off the rest of the walls so I can get a clean surface for waterproofing paint. I am also working on cleaning my concrete floor so I can apply epoxy floor coating. I have a new furnace that I need to install so I removed the and scraped the old furnace and remove the newish water heater so this is the perfect time to do that area

. Right now the scope of the project will focus on the area around where my furnace was/will be and an area under my stairs which should consume the flooring kit without waste.

I am also planning on installing some insulation on the walls as most of my basement has no wall insulation. I haven't decided whether to go with foam panels or spray-in closed cell polyurethane. I have some time to decide as my current focus is on part of my floor and two of my walls.

Closed cell polyurethane has a high R value of r7 per inch and acts as a vapor barrier but it is more expensive.



jross said:


> I heard an advertisement regarding the Humidex system installed by a local outfit in one's basement that eliminates the noise and heat from a dehumidifier.
> Investigating via the net revealed by one person who posed as a prospective dealer for the system that the unit costs $350 from Humidex and one can charge $1300 for the system. All it seems to be is a fan in a duct vented to the outside controlled by a humidistat. A vent to the basement is created from the living space to supply dry air from the central ac. I got a 6 ft piece of 4 inch galvanized duct for $8, a 6 inch duct fan $24, Two 4/6 inch adapters for $6, a dryer vent for $12, a humidistat for $30, and a battery powered humidity/temp digital indicator for $ 9 at Walmart, plus two electrical boxes, one for an outlet and one for the humdidstat. I didn't have to buy a 4 inch hole saw because the guy that hunts our land gave me a brand new one, but I could have cut the hole for the dryer vent with a sawzall or my sonicrafter. I cut two holes in the basement entrance wall sheetrock and shoved in two heat registers, removing one damper, which suplies cool air from the living space. I taped off part of the bottom of the duct and drilled about 8, 1/4 inch holes at three levels in the duct. The fan is installed at the very top of the duct at the dryer vent. Our basement gets some water at times 4-5 gal at the most, but with all the junk down there, smells musty. Presently, after the unit running steady for a week, the musty smell is gone and the humidity is holding between 54 and 59 percent, the duct fan cycling as needed. Now to wait for the electric bill which should be less because the dehumidifer is not running.



Where is the living space that you are refering to? Also, does your plan require A/C be in use?


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Look up Thoroseal on the internet. I don't think it was always available to home owners. It is now.


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## jross (Sep 3, 2006)

''Where is the living space that you are refering to? Also, does your plan require A/C be in use?""

The living space is anywhere other than the basement, usually a hole cut through the first floor. No the Ac doesn't have to be running.


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