# Honda TRX300FWV



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

I'm trying to figure out why this 4-wheeler won't start. The battery is showing 13.3V on the meter w/ key off. When you try to start it, all you get is a click from the solenoid AKA _Magnetic Starter Switch Assembly_. Thinking maybe the solenoid. How do I test one of these to see if it's bad or not? :shrug:


----------



## travis91 (Jul 26, 2005)

try the pull starter.. see if that will start it..


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Oh, it will kick start. Just trying to get the *electric start* fixed.

Sorry, duh moment. :ashamed:


----------



## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

I have repaired my own Honda ATVs but never a TRX300. I think your machine has a relay in a plastic box that functions as a starter solenoid. It is located on my machines near the battery and accessible from the tool box area via the back of the ATV. I have to remove the tool box and a cover to get there. Since the machine is running from a kick start I suggest you take a voltage reading to verify the regulator rectifier is working. With a digital VO meter read the battery voltage with the switch off and remember the reading. Crank the engine and read the battery again. The voltage should increase to somewhere around 14 volts....not higher than 15.2 volts. Regarding the solenoid. You can open it and observe the condition of the points. Get your replacement solenoid off the internet as the savings are substantial. I would buy new for the solenoid as the points wear but I would if I needed a regulator rectifier get one from ebay. Post your results here or ask if you need help.
Go here to see the solenoid. It is called something else (starter magnetic) but it is item 12 on the battery schematic. I did not know your year model so I punched in 2000....verify you get what you need for YOUR machine
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2000-honda-trx300-fourtrax/o/m2597#sch37676


----------



## travis91 (Jul 26, 2005)

well i dought its the starter.. check the solinoid.. and the fuses.


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

It is a 1997, for the record. And yeah, that 2000 looks exactly like the diagram for the 1997. I found one on ebay for a pretty good price. Um, I was kind of looking for a test to check whether the solenoid was good or not. I think I found a pretty good test on youtube - checking for voltage input and then voltage output with key on and start button pressed (different terminals, of course). That should tell me whether the solenoid is good or bad...right? 

I don't really want to pull the solenoid apart if it ain't broke, I'll probably break it :happy: - I'm just trying to fix it for an ole guy in town. I know if I have problems kick-starting this thing, he has to be. The other problems most likely caused the starting issue in the first place.

Oh, did I forget to mention it has a few other problems too, but I don't know if I should try to get into all that. Something wrong with the choke cable (adjustment?? - you have to move the choke button around just so to get it to idle right) and then there is a hose coming off the bottom of the what looks like the carburetor just hanging there continually dripping gas...

ETA - oh, why not



> and then there is a hose coming off the bottom of the what looks like the carburetor just hanging there continually dripping gas...


_What's up with that?_


----------



## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

I'd suspect a bad connection since it doesn't seem to be getting enough power to the starter



> there is a hose coming off the bottom of the what looks like the carburetor just hanging there *continually dripping *gas..


That's probably means the carb needs cleaning.
The float and needle valve are allowing gas to fill the carb


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Is there maybe a fuse or something _after_ the solenoid? I saw two fuses in the battery compartment. I was able to check one fuse and it looked fine. I'll double-check both fuses tomorrow and for what might look like bad connections. I couldn't even find a starter at first glance. Guess I'd better look where all the different parts are in the diagrams tonight.


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Bearfootfarm said:


> That's probably means the carb needs cleaning.
> The float and needle valve are allowing gas to fill the carb


Can you give me the *Fixin' 4-Wheelers For Dummies* version of what that means? :gaptooth:


----------



## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> Can you give me the Fixin' 4-Wheelers For Dummies version of what that means?


It means take the carb apart and clean it out.

It only takes a TINY piece of trash to keep the valve from closing.

Have you checked to make sure your battery cables and wires aren't corroded?

Have you tried jump starting it?


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Bearfootfarm said:


> It means take the carb apart and clean it out.
> 
> It only takes a TINY piece of trash to keep the valve from closing.


That sounds like lots of parts I could lose or break or misplace...and have to buy. And with no manual?? :teehee: TY for the explanation though.



> Have you checked to make sure your battery cables and wires aren't corroded?
> 
> Have you tried jump starting it?


I'll have to check on that tomorrow evening. :thumb:


----------



## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

How Do I 

To verify that the solenoid/Magnetic Starter Switch Assembly is working all you have to do is jump from one main contact to the other main contact of the solenoid. When jumpered and with a good battery and clean terminals the starter should start cranking the engine. If that fails then the starter itself is the culprit. The fuse is not in the circuit of the battery to starter. You do need to measure the battery voltage to see how much it drops while attempting to activate the starter. PS you do not have to use a Honda solenoid as a replacement if you do not want to. A solenoid off a lawn mower/tractor can be made to work and these are cheap. A used solenoid would be about in the same condition as what you have.


----------



## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Get your service manual here
http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail....0-honda-trx300-trx300fw-service-repair-manual


----------



## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> That sounds like lots of parts I could lose or break or misplace...and have to buy. And with no manual?? TY for the explanation though.


It's usually not as hard as it seems since most of those parts don't have to be removed to flush it out


----------



## mink (Feb 10, 2005)

the honda shop here says that the brushes are gone in mine, they want 40 bucks for the 2 brushes and i ordered the complete starter from DB ELECTRICAL FOR 50 BUCKS PLUS 12 SHIPPING .THE HONDA SHOP HERE SAYS THE STARTER FROM THEM COSTS 430 PLUS TAX...YIKES.... they claim the starters rarely go bad , just the brushes get worn out .mine will be here friday so i'll let ya know


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Well, I tried to jump the solenoid and all I got was a faint blue spark when touching the jumper. No click. Nothing. Checked the battery again and it is now showing 10.4V - I had put the battery on the charger yesterday evening for a few hours, maybe not long enough?? I think the battery has been discharged for quite awhile. The charger usually tells me if the battery can't take a charge, but it started charging it yesterday evening so I took it that the battery was OK. It might just be the battery is junk. Who knows? I really can't do much right now as it is soaking/sloppy wet here. I guess I need to check the battery is OK or not before going any further. I'll have to pick this back up when fair weather returns.


----------



## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

Try just a regular jump start, connecting your cables to the battery.

I still think it's just not getting enough power to the starter


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

I'll give that a shot tomorrow if it's not pouring...and report back.


----------



## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Bearfootfarm

Not to be contradictory because I too would normally do as you stated with the jump start. These ATVs have a regulator rectifier and they are very sensitive and can be ruined with a jump start. It is best to remove the battery from the machine and charge the battery out of the circuit. If you read my post above you see I suggested that he battery voltage be taken in such a manner as to verify the regulator rectifier is working. IMO I think the RR is already history. If the battery is weak or will not charge correctly on a bench and needs replacing then the correct battery needs to be purchased. I believe the replacement is a Yuasa YTX14-BS. A Motocross 200 amp battery is the same battery but a lesser price. Do not buy a substitute battery of less amperage. 

How Do I 
Look up on the frame back of the right rear wheel and see if you see an aluminum finned heat sink. That is the regulator rectifier. Remove the plugin receptacle from the RR. Kick start the machine and with your meter read the DC voltage on the red and black wires and report here. If you can ID the yellow wires read the AC voltage between all combinations of the Yellow wires. It does matter where you start reading or which wire you label as A. Example A -B, B-C, C-A. This AC voltage will vary with engine speed. It should be somewhere around or below 50 volts at high revs. ( I am running on my memory so that reading could/may vary)


----------



## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

mink
Have you changed one of these starters previously? If not, do not think it is like changing a car starter. There are gears that can fall off as the starter is removed. Just be careful and you should be OK. Make certain everything goes back the same as it was on the none working starter.


----------



## mink (Feb 10, 2005)

agman i have the repair manual and i says to remove the cover on the outside of the engine . it has a black plastic heat shield on it and remove the 2 gears on the inside to allow the starter room to get out of it proper place . the gears have pins that hold th 2 in place.good suggestion though , without the repair manuel id have assumed it was like a car . you are so right that they dont just slide out. mink


----------



## mink (Feb 10, 2005)

the starter came today , only took 2 days from tennessee to new york.took 20 minutes to change . my honda is a 300 fourtrax same as this tread started and when i would push the start button i would get one click just as he did . the new starter fixed my problem and i suspect it is his too.id try a new starter or go to the honda shop for 40 bucks plus tax and change the brushes in the old one. best of luck mink


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

The starting issue ended up being the battery was bad. Got a new one finally ordered and put it in and it cranks and cranks now. Umm, I ended up finding some junk in the bottom of the carb bowl.

Pulled the float assembly apart, cleaned it out and reassembled. It stopped leaking from the hose, but I used the same old rotten seal and it developed a leak around the rim of the bowl.

I found a seal on ebay, but it came with the carb rebuild kit. So I ordered that and disassembled, cleaned and reassembled everything except the carb primer/pump today. Jump on, crank it and crank it and crank it. Acts like its not getting gas. No gas or even gas smell from the spark plug.

I reach under and use the carb primer knob. Crank it over. Hey, I smell gas. Huh! It's shooting gas out around the the pump. I pulled the pump off and the diaphragm is dry-rotted or whatever and falling apart so I'm getting ready to get a new one.

I'm pretty sure the primer diaphragm port fills from the carb bowl and then bypasses everything until it enters the actual carb port itself so I don't see how the pump debri could enter any of the jets or whatever. Someone know more about that?

I didn't see any trash in the bowl where it could make it to the jets to clog.

So, I know it was bone dry after rebuilding it. Are they normally this hard to start without using the primer knob? Does anyone have to use the primer knob on theirs to get it started in cold weather. I just figured choke would get it started. I'm thinking that starter jet, when I unscrewed that and pulled the plug off, there looked like something metal down in that port. There wasn't any part to replace for that other than the actual starter jet screw itself. I guess that was all that needed replacing?? I soaked the whole thing with two bottles of carb cleaner. Maybe I'm putting the cart before the horse, I just hate putting it back on after the primer knob arrives and have to take it all back apart again. Sorry this is so long-winded.


----------



## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

IMO you probably have a problem with now with the float stuck. Does this ATV have the fuel tank under the seat? If so. it has a fuel pump and you can hear the pump run when the key is first turned on. Take the fuel line loose at the carb and see if you have fuel. If not go to the pump as well as determine the fuel shutoff is in the ON position. As for the carb jet setup. You are confusing the atv carb with that of a car. The kill switch is in the correct location isn't it?


----------



## michael.hickman (Nov 12, 2007)

You can download a shop manual at www.hondaatvforums.net (for free if you look around). Also check your wiring for a bare or grounded wire from the key switch to the solenoid. I replaced the coil, plugs, battery, and ECM box and it still wouldn't crank...I found a bare wire under the dash at the handlebars and replaced it and it fired right up. 
It would just keep trying to crank but wouldn't get a fire.


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

I think I found out why it's not getting gas or air....or. I went over the carb again late last night and I kept looking at this one hole and it looked like it might be clogged, but I couldn't tell for sure...until it finally dried out. Then I could see from the side view (pic) that it was totally clogged up.










You can't see the clog in the pic, but this "port" is where it is clogged. You can see straight down into the hole from above, but I couldn't get a good pic of it from that view. Now if I can just figure out which hole to shoot air through to blow it out. Anyone know the term for that port, hole or whatever it is? You're looking at it from the breather side of the carb. I can't even tell from the mold shape on the outside where it runs to.


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Just a wild guess here, but it looks like from the way the cast runs (looking at it from underneath), it's coming from the main jet.


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Here's about where the hole is from the outside.











ETA - I guess I should clarify, I get gas to the carb, but never any to the cylinder. Just won't start now. I guess when I pulled it off the clean the carp out of the bowl/float it jiggled some stuff loose in there. I'll try to blow that out here in a day or two and when the primer gets here I'll give it another shot. I was just wondering if that there hole being clogged could be the lone reason it is not starting. 27 hours and no sleep, I can't even think straight any more. Gonna go grab a cat nap.  Thanks!


----------



## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

Get a can of Seafoam and soak the carb in a little before trying to blow it out.

Add some to your gas before starting

http://www.seafoamsales.com/


----------



## bikehealer1 (Oct 8, 2009)

That would be the airflow port for both the choke system and the pilot circuit from what I can see in the picture. The air circuit for the main jet would be at the back of the carb inline with the needle jet which can be seen in the first pic ( thats the round metal piece the slide needle moves in and out of to meter fuel flow off idle). The best way to clean any carb is a submersion soak method in a commercial type carb cleaner. You can buy a one gallon can of Berrymans for around $20. Do not put any rubber components in the soak unless you wish for them to swell beyond use. :grin:


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

So, that could be the reason for the no-start? Or is there another reason I'm not getting gas to the engine to start?


----------



## bikehealer1 (Oct 8, 2009)

If the start circuit is clogged, it will be hard to start. Looking at the carb from the bottom, as in your picture, the start jet is the tower on the left. I cant tell from the pic if it has a rubber plug there or if it is a pressed in piece of brass with a certain sized hole drilled in it. Whichever, the whole carb is still dirty. The main jet and emulsion tube are the only clean looking pieces in the carb. If the pilot is still clogged,that will not allow for any fuel flow either. You should be able to hold the pilot jet up and see light thru it. Another question... how are the valve clearances? If any are tight it will cause hard starting. Is the plug clean? A dirty plug will not spark correctly, making for a hard start. I have been a motorcycle/atv/mule/personal watercraft et al... tech for 14 years . It's always fun to figure out things like this from far away. lol...


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

The pilot jet was good and clean the first time, but I removed it and checked again and it is still clean as a whistle. The inside isn't dirty, unless you're thinking if it's not sparkling metal, it isn't clean. May be the fluorescent light giving that appearance. It's nothing but bare grey metal on the inside. The outside is a different story but you couldn't even see the metal when I first took it off. The starter jet is on the side of the tower with the rubber plug.


----------



## bikehealer1 (Oct 8, 2009)

So you can flow carb spray thru the pilot jet with no problem? I've seen a flake of trash hang around in the bore of the jet and reclog the passage. Can you spray thru the starter jet freely and have it exit the various orifices connected to it? Also, have you put your hand over the intake boot and cranked the engine to verify that you have suction at the intake? If yes, then once you reinstall the carb, crank the engine and give it a shot of starting fluid to verify the engine will run. Sometime it takes a little help to get things going.


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

I got the carb put back on a couple of days ago. I guess that little clog was the cause. I turned the gas on, turned the key, hit the switch and it fired right up. I got the carb as close as I could come without a tach meter, but when I was coming back up the hill it bogged down hard and sounded like it could be the valves chattering. It's been sitting since. I haven't had time to check the valves and adjust if need be. This thing has also got light cloud of blue smoke coming out from behind the headlight cover thingamabob. I can only guess it is the crankcase breather hose? What's up with that? :shocked:

ETA - (when I say hill, I'm talking maybe 9-10 percent grade)


----------



## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

How Do I
Have you verified the gas is good and that there is no water mixed in with the fuel. You are running 89 octane or better aren't you?


----------



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

The gas is fine I think. It was running fine down to the field and then once I got down there and opened it up a bit it started smoking blue smoke from that breather hose. I went ahead and came back up to park it until I could look at it again and when I got to our upper hill it just bogged down bad and you could hear clinking real bad from right under the gas tank. It just acted like it didn't want to go any where. It seemed like it was getting warm. 

The oil light never came on. I don't know what to think other than check the valve clearance...maybe? Anyone know why there would be blue smoke coming from the breather hose?? There's no smoke whatsoever from the tailpipe.


----------

