# good price for wood stove and oven install



## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Yesterday an installer gave me a rough estimate of 250-300$ to install the below items. There is already pipe running through the ceiling and roof and theres a hearth already built to put it on. Just replacing a stove and adding this stove to it. I live on the oklahoma missouri border. 

Does $250-$300 sound fair?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Englander-2-200-sq-ft-Wood-Burning-Stove-30-NCH/100291302#

https://www.lehmans.com/p-4873-bakers-salute-oven.aspx


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

If the pipe in the ceiling is correct and all they have to do is set the stove and hook everything up, I'd save the money and do it myself.. It's really not hard.. A few simple hand tools, which even if you have to buy them, is cheaper, and you'll have them for the next project.


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

I'd be more concerned about putting that stove up against a non-fire rated wall ( the one with the electrical receptacle in it ). Specs call for 8" on the stove, (5 with optional heat shield) but 16" on the pipe for that type of wall.


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## jhambley (Nov 21, 2004)

If you don't know what you don't know about wood stove installation than it would be the best money you ever spent. Just be open to their suggested improvements as your life could depend on it!

NOTE: I'm assuming this installer is certified and insured.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

simi-steading said:


> If the pipe in the ceiling is correct and all they have to do is set the stove and hook everything up, I'd save the money and do it myself.. It's really not hard.. A few simple hand tools, which even if you have to buy them, is cheaper, and you'll have them for the next project.


thats true about the tools. ive tried to fix my own vehicles using that logic for years now. I'm thinking more about trying to do it myself.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

TnAndy said:


> I'd be more concerned about putting that stove up against a non-fire rated wall ( the one with the electrical receptacle in it ). Specs call for 8" on the stove, (5 with optional heat shield) but 16" on the pipe for that type of wall.


where does it say its 16" for that type of wall? The diagram on page 8 says 16" clearance in the front side of the oven but 8 in the rear. I dont see where it calls for 16" clearance to that wall in the rear


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

Look at the specs on the New England stove...pdf file on Home Depot website.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e3/e3dda524-8c99-482d-af74-764abbb59fef.pdf

Page 6, drawing on right hand bottom corner.


*16" Min.*


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## homstdr74 (Jul 4, 2011)

When we were younger we thought about those types of stovepipe stoves. After an experience some friends of ours had with their âMagic Heatâ stovepipe heaters, we are glad we decided against them. 

I know, theyâre not the same thing, but when you use them you basically block the flue and trap creosote around the oven. Maybe there is a way to clean that, but you canât always be certain you get everything or that youâll even do the cleaning on schedule. Besides, if the wood you burn isnât seasoned correctly, some of that creosote is difficult to dislodge.

Anyway, our friends had two of the stovepipe heaters, one in their shop and one in their home. Both the shop and the home burned down because of those impediments in the stovepipe. Now Iâm sure there are people who will deny that could ever happen, and who have used them all their lives, etc., but that happened to a couple we know, and they have and will tell the world that the cause was the impediment in the stovepipe. 

I say if you want a wood burning cook stove, buy one. A real one:

https://www.lehmans.com/p-3442-bakers-choice-wood-cookstoves.aspx

But if youâre determined to get that one that fits onto the pipe, youâd better get it professionally installed and take his advice about how to clean it.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

TnAndy said:


> Look at the specs on the New England stove...pdf file on Home Depot website.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e3/e3dda524-8c99-482d-af74-764abbb59fef.pdf
> 
> ...


Thats interesting. What does the diagram mean on page 8 where it shows an 8' distance to the walls around it (except the front)?


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

TnAndy said:


> Look at the specs on the New England stove...pdf file on Home Depot website.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/e3/e3dda524-8c99-482d-af74-764abbb59fef.pdf
> 
> ...





homstdr74 said:


> When we were younger we thought about those types of stovepipe stoves. After an experience some friends of ours had with their âMagic Heatâ stovepipe heaters, we are glad we decided against them.
> 
> I know, theyâre not the same thing, but when you use them you basically block the flue and trap creosote around the oven. Maybe there is a way to clean that, but you canât always be certain you get everything or that youâll even do the cleaning on schedule. Besides, if the wood you burn isnât seasoned correctly, some of that creosote is difficult to dislodge.
> 
> ...


I called lehmans today and ordered a user manual for the oven. The site says to keeep the woodstove burning at least 250 degrees. Thats a nice oven you linked to but not what I need now in function nor price. It is nice though. Are the Lehmans ovens like it good ovens


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## homstdr74 (Jul 4, 2011)

harmon said:


> I called lehmans today and ordered a user manual for the oven. The site says to keeep the woodstove burning at least 250 degrees. Thats a nice oven you linked to but not what I need now in function nor price. It is nice though. *Are the Lehmans ovens like it good ovens*


I honestly cannot give a review on them either way. I was only giving them as an example because the Amish buy from them and they are one of the few outfits left that sell them. 

That said, we have had a wood burning cook stove for years. The one we own and use every winter for cooking and heating is an old (1952) Home Comfort, made in St. Louis around 1950. It's wonderful, one of the best American products ever made, with typical American craftsmanship designed to last for years without having to replace parts. 

There are other dealers in wood burning cook stoves. Here's a link to Obadiah's:

http://woodstoves.net/cookstoves.htm

But if you attend country auctions, go to flea markets or used furniture stores you might find a good used cook stove. Always look at the interior of the oven for rust-out and the grates for possible disintegration since some times stoves designed for wood are used for coal, and that doesn't work well because coal burns out the grates. Yes, even though the old wood burners were designed to last, many of those who owned them neglected to keep them up by removing any ashes over the summer or burning material in them that the stove was not designed to burn.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

homstdr74 said:


> When we were younger we thought about those types of stovepipe stoves. After an experience some friends of ours had with their âMagic Heatâ stovepipe heaters, we are glad we decided against them.
> 
> I know, theyâre not the same thing, but when you use them you basically block the flue and trap creosote around the oven. Maybe there is a way to clean that, but you canât always be certain you get everything or that youâll even do the cleaning on schedule. Besides, if the wood you burn isnât seasoned correctly, some of that creosote is difficult to dislodge.
> 
> ...


Theres a way to clean it. This attached manual from Lehman's is only a couple pages long, but it shows how to go in it and clean it if it gets dirty.


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## homstdr74 (Jul 4, 2011)

harmon said:


> Theres a way to clean it. This attached manual from Lehman's is only a couple pages long, but it shows how to go in it and clean it if it gets dirty.


Yes, but will you do that or, even if you are very organized, how often will you do that?


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

simi-steading said:


> If the pipe in the ceiling is correct and all they have to do is set the stove and hook everything up, I'd save the money and do it myself.. It's really not hard.. A few simple hand tools, which even if you have to buy them, is cheaper, and you'll have them for the next project.


Those first eight words are critical. Got 2 by 4s in that wall behind it? That's combustible. Observe the required space as dictated by the stove manufacturer and local codes.


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## NorthwoodsMike (Jun 10, 2013)

harmon said:


> Thats interesting. What does the diagram mean on page 8 where it shows an 8' distance to the walls around it (except the front)?


I think you are both right. Single walled stove pipe must be 16" min from any combustible surface. The back of the stove itself can be 8" min from a combustible surface. 

I'm not sure what the spacing is from the back of the stove to the pipe outlet, but I suspect it isn't 8", meaning that the spacing from the wall to the back of stove must be whatever is required to keep the stove pipe 16" from the wall.

Now, if you used double wall stove pipe, the stove pipe can be as close as 6" to the wall, allowing you to put the stove at the 8" distance. An additional advantage to double wall stove pipe is flue temps stay hotter, keeping the chimney cleaner. The disadvantage is you lose a little bit of heat transfer from the stove pipe.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Ive already decided I will use double sided from the ceiling down. I havent checked above the ceiling yet.


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