# Pattern alteration help



## Karen (Apr 17, 2002)

I'm a big woman and my shape just doesn't conform to standard measurements -- at all. I have a really small waist, but really big hips and have this bubble-butt thing from 40 years of sitting in an office and now a wheelchair. Also because of my arthritis, I'm kind of bent kind of goofy in the back too. When I sit, my rear end goes past my back; kind of like a sway-back, but not exactly.

So my fitting problem is that I need to fit my hips, but it's way too big in the waist. The biggest problem I have is that pants will fit fine in the front, but the back of the pants is WAY too low. They are half way down my rear end. I also seem to have a problem with plus size patterns being too big in legs. I end up with clown pants! I'm totally convinced big people are not the designers of big people's patterns.

So how do I alter a simple elastic waist pants pattern to come up higher in the back, but still match up for the front, have a waist that fits and I don't look like I work for Ringling Brothers? I'm a total idiot at alterations and can never figure this stuff out so simple instructions please!


----------



## tallpines (Apr 9, 2003)

.....


----------



## Becka (Mar 15, 2008)

Karen, I'm plus sized with an hourglass shape and most clothes either hang at my waist or are too tight in the hips. I feel your pain.

When buying ready-made clothes, I stick to princess seams or empire style dresses. I don't bother with skirts unless they have elastic waists and flair out in fullness. I don't mess with alterations anymore now that I've discovered the womanwithin.com. For the first time in 15 years, I was able to buy a pair of jeans that FIT and had an elastic waist.

If you really want to alter your pants, you might be able to slit the seams apart on the sides at the top and add a strip of fabric on each side to get more fullness at the hips. Or buy them big enough to fit the hips and sew darts a few inches from the waist, up to the waist, to get rid of the excess fullness there. Other than that, I don't know what to tell you.


----------



## FairviewFarm (Sep 16, 2003)

In an older book on pattern fitting, Nancy Zieman of Sewing with Nancy and Nancy's Notions has easy directions for altering pants. In the section on lengthening the crotch, one option is changes needed for a "predominant seat". There also side curve and thigh width changes that can be made so you don't have clown pant legs.

Nancy came out with a new (updated) version of the book last year. It is titled Pattern Fitting with Confidence. You can read more about it and/or order it here: http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/sewing+with+nancy/books/pattern+fitting+with+confidence+book.do?search=basic&keyword=Fitting&sortby=newArrivals&page=1

Perhaps you can borrow it from your local library (or interlibrary loan) before ordering it. The older version is Fitting Finesse if they don't have the new version.


----------



## Karen (Apr 17, 2002)

One of the downfalls of living very rural. We only have one library (approx. 30 miles round-trip and it's pitiful), but I just called them and they do not have a copy and it would take at least 2 weeks to get it _if_ another library did have it.  Probably because there are no other cities around to borrow from anyway..lol.

I need these pants for our vacation in Feb. so I wanted to get started in case I actually am able to make some that fit and I'd have time to do several pair. I've resorted to dresses for years because I had given up on pants.


----------



## Pink_Carnation (Apr 21, 2006)

One sewing instructor I had always made a skirt first that fit the waist and hips...then from there could alter the pants to fit.

Or you could make some pj style pants/shorts adding to the crotch curve in the back and some of the height of it if needed. Then tapper in at the thigh if that is to loose. Then if you can get those to fit....use darts and or pleats to do the waistband for a more fitted look if you want.

Adding to the crotch curve can make it easier to sit without the scooping in the back.


----------



## Mid Tn Mama (May 11, 2002)

Its best to fit to the hips (widest part) in terms of size. Then it's easier to fit to the waist.

Are these pants you bought or some you are making. If they are some you have already, try to make v-darts on both sides of the back seam to take in the waist.


----------



## Karen (Apr 17, 2002)

Mid Tn Mama said:


> Are these pants you bought or some you are making.


I'm making them. 



Pink_Carnation said:


> Adding to the crotch curve can make it easier to sit without the scooping in the back.


I'm not kidding about being a total idiot in pattern alterations..lol. I'm not sure what you mean by the crotch curve. Do you mean the seam on the inside of the legs or the one that goes between your legs from front-to-back; and how do I know how much to add and where to stop and start with the alteration? How do I get the pattern pieces to match up if I don't need any more height or room in the front (only the back)?


----------



## Ruby (May 10, 2002)

Karen, I found this on google. Scroll down close to the bottom and it tells plus shows you how to alter pants patterns.

If you have some cheap fabric or some muslin you might practice on that. 

http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/c-228.html


----------



## Karen (Apr 17, 2002)

Ruby, I had found that when trying to Google to figure it out. The only thing that really applies is the protruding derriere, but I don't need width, I need height in the back (from the center of the crotch, around the back and up to the waist) (front is a good fit) -- or at least that's what I _think_ I need. 
That's what always confuses me with patterns. Where you think you'd make the adjustment is some place else entirely!


----------



## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

Okay - I think I have an idea. (couldn't think about this at work today, was figuring out a big invoice problem).

Can you get cheap material in the amount needed for the pants, plus enough for about 12 inches extra length on the two main pattern pieces. 

Now. cut out the pattern with the extra length on the top of the waist cutting line. This should look VERY strange.
Put them on.
PUll the extra fabric up under your armpits.
Sit down.
Tie a line around your waist. Get one of the Dan's to mark where the line is - make sure it will not rub off. Sharpie, Laundy marker, etc.

Now take them off. Cut at the line, plus the fold over amount (about 2 inches) for elastic.

Take them apart and you can use for pattern. If the waist to hip is too loose, then you will need to have a zipper type opening as the waist has to get over the hips if you make the waist more narrow.


On to the legs.
When they are on you. Pinch the inside and outside seams at the bottom and see what width you like. Then at the calf, the knee and the hip. Probably make a mark or use pins (safety will not hurt as much taking it off).

When off - draw your line from comfortable hip in to the marked widths plus your seam allowance.

This should work.

Angie


----------



## Carolyn (Jan 5, 2008)

Angie-that would be a good idea, should work


----------



## Karen (Apr 17, 2002)

That's brilliant, Angie! I'm going with that. I'll let you know how it works out.


----------



## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

Glad to be of help - I hope it works out for you, Karen.


----------

