# I can no longer draw my compound bow.



## DaisyDuke (Nov 21, 2017)

I have a very old Golden Eagle compound bow. I was able to draw it fine for the past few years to what I thought was the anchor point. This past summer when practicing my string snapped (I think my dog may have contributed to it as the quiver was damaged too). I took it to get new strings a couple weeks ago and when I went to pick it up I could not draw it (barely an inch of pull). The bowtech was not in so I just left it there and will be coming back either tonight or tomorrow to talk to them. What kind of things should I ask? I'm sure they set it to the lowest draw weight as I'm fairly petite. Is there any other way to decrease the draw weight that I should ask about? If not what can I do other than pawn my old bow and get a newer light weight, low draw weight bow? A new bow isn't really in my budget at this time, but I have a good opportunity to go hunting on some private land before firearms season that I don't want to pass up.


----------



## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Have then put it on a draw weight scale. Adjust the draw weight down to where you can draw it again.
Since they didn't have a string to check the draw weight they set it at what is a common weight about 60 pounds.


Most old compounds can go from about 35 pounds up to about 70 pounds.
Put your bow where the dog can't chew on it.


 Al


----------



## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

I'd strongly recommend you upgrade to a modern (five years old or less) compound bow. It's really pretty amazing how nice and easy the modern stuff is to shoot. There are a whole lot of bow junkies out there that trade their equipment every year or two for the latest and greatest. You can pick up 2-3 year old rigs all set up with accessories for peanuts compared to new stuff.

I upgraded my 20+ year old Matthews a couple years ago to a new Bear. Absolutely no comparison !


----------



## D-BOONE (Feb 9, 2016)

have them check for proper string and proper string wrap. To short a string can cause these type of problems.


----------



## DaisyDuke (Nov 21, 2017)

Fishindude said:


> I'd strongly recommend you upgrade to a modern (five years old or less) compound bow. It's really pretty amazing how nice and easy the modern stuff is to shoot. There are a whole lot of bow junkies out there that trade their equipment every year or two for the latest and greatest. You can pick up 2-3 year old rigs all set up with accessories for peanuts compared to new stuff.
> 
> I upgraded my 20+ year old Matthews a couple years ago to a new Bear. Absolutely no comparison !


I've been doing a bit of research on modern bows and am pretty sure I want to get a new one. Due to moving in the near future I'm not sure if my budget will allow what I want. I wish there were a way to rent a bow for a weekend! I'll put out the word in my area that I'm looking for an affordable used bow, or maybe if I'm lucky someone may even let me 'rent'one for the weekend.


----------



## DaisyDuke (Nov 21, 2017)

D-BOONE said:


> have them check for proper string and proper string wrap. To short a string can cause these type of problems.


Hmm, I'm paying over a hundred bucks for the bowtech to replace my strings. I'm guessing they would be using the proper strings and string wrap? Are you suggesting I take the bow to a different shop to check the work of the bowtech?


----------



## DaisyDuke (Nov 21, 2017)

alleyyooper said:


> Have then put it on a draw weight scale. Adjust the draw weight down to where you can draw it again.
> Since they didn't have a string to check the draw weight they set it at what is a common weight about 60 pounds.
> 
> 
> ...


When I go in tomorrow afternoon I will ask if they have a draw weight scale. I'm thinking they would allow me to try out some of the bows they have for sale just so I can find out what I should be 'buying'. I use quotes because a new bow isn't in my budget but I feel that even if I don't walk out with a bow I can use I should at least know what I need to be saving up for. Yep I'll keep my bow away from my pup, I left it down because I was cleaning and tidying the closet I had it stored in. When I walked in the other room she was laying there looking all happy gnawing on the quiver.


----------



## DaisyDuke (Nov 21, 2017)

Wound up admitting my own lack of strength and buying a cross bow. It sure was fun to practice while sighting in. Wish me luck tomorrow morning while I try to take advantage of the first low temp, low pressure day of this fall.


----------



## TraderBob (Oct 21, 2010)

With my arthritis now, it's difficult. I'm glad I live in a state where I can use a crossbow to hunt.


----------



## DaisyDuke (Nov 21, 2017)

I had a great weekend going hunting, didn't catch anything but hey archery season lasts quite a while. I have a renewed respect for those who are successful hunters. (I think that each year when I return empty handed!)
Any one care to share some tips or advice on bowhunting for a relatively new hunter? This is my third season going out and my luck needs to change! I feel my biggest weakness is not being able to spend enough consecutive hours in the woods.


----------



## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

I've killed a lot of deer with archery gear. The trick is getting close enough for a shot (I like 25 yds & under), then being concealed well enough to draw and shoot without alarming the deer.

Three stands are a big advantage for an archer. You also have to pay very careful attention to the wind direction. You want your scent blowing where the deer isn't. No amount of camouflage, attractant scents, etc. will hide human odor from a deer, and if they get your scent, you are very unlikely to get a bow shot. It's best to have multiple stands set for different wind directions and also so you don't over-hunt your stands and educate the deer.

First couple and last couple hours of daylight are usually best for deer movement, however bucks will be on their feet all day long during the seeking and breeding period approx. Halloween thru Thanksgiving in my area of the midwest, prime dates Nov 5-15th.

Just put your time in and learn from what you see. Study their habits, tracks, trails, rubs, scrapes, feeding preferences, etc. and you will start piecing things together. The learning process is actually the fun part. Good luck !


----------



## DaisyDuke (Nov 21, 2017)

Fishindude said:


> I've killed a lot of deer with archery gear. The trick is getting close enough for a shot (I like 25 yds & under), then being concealed well enough to draw and shoot without alarming the deer.
> 
> Three stands are a big advantage for an archer. You also have to pay very careful attention to the wind direction. You want your scent blowing where the deer isn't. No amount of camouflage, attractant scents, etc. will hide human odor from a deer, and if they get your scent, you are very unlikely to get a bow shot. It's best to have multiple stands set for different wind directions and also so you don't over-hunt your stands and educate the deer.
> 
> ...


Yeah I defiantly need to put in more time and learn more about their habits and patterns etc. I follow all the advice online, youtube, bowhunter and hunter education etc. Still I'm empty handed and full quivered. Where in the midwest are you? I think rut season is supposed to start here around Halloween. I'm hoping I can send my kids off with some friends for the evening and get out in the woods a few hours before sunset than again before sunrise.


----------



## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

He has his area listed in his profile. 

 Al


----------



## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

I'm in Indiana. Killed my second doe of the season yesterday so working on stocking the freezer.
We have property in Illinois also so I jump back and forth quite a bit. Will also be hunting Kansas and Alabama this fall / winter.

In the midwest you can see rutting activity anytime between Halloween and Thanksgiving, but if I had to pick the best time to be in the woods to kill a rutting old buck it would be Nov 5th thru 15th. Good luck, and get out with a firearm if you're unsuccessful with the bow.


----------



## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

There is a lot more to getting a deer any deer than dabing on the latest and greatest scent reducer and acctractant. Also grabbing the latest and greatest super duper magum deer slammer rifle or bow.

You would thing that people 100 75 or even 50 years ago could never harvest a deer because they didn't own all that crap.

You don't even need camo as many rags seem to sujest today. ever notice there is only a couple patterens in a few different shades. Ever see evergreen patteren for hunting in pine forest?

The trick is to learn the deer in the area where your going to hunt. Where & what they primarly eat, surrounding crops. Where their bedding area happens to be and the travel route between those bedding areas and the feeding area.

Set up and be still, they will see movement well before they see if your wearing camo or not.

One thing today people back in time didn't deal with is air scent things in the house. Years ago there were cooking smells, fuel for the car/truck so they learned to hang hunting cloths out side or a scent free shed and change into them there scent free. 
If traveling to a hunting spot wait to change into your hunting cloths at the hunt site and that applys to your boots also. Don't wear them when gassing up the car/truck a
ATV or other.

At my deer camp we do not change into our hunting cloths except in the 10x10 shed, no gun oils, gasoline or karosine is allowed in the shed along with NO SMOKEING.

Of course the deer at my deer camp are far different than here at home. Deer here at home are used to seeing me just about every day when I walk my dogs. they know what I stink like even.

Deer at my deer camp will only see and smell a human during one time of year, deer season. HGuman scent is new to them and scares them bad.

Instead of buying that expencive anti scent crap try bakeing soda. 
Learn the travel patterns to and from feeding areas and bedding areas.

Remember movement of a human will scare the bejabers out of a deer, sending them off snorting and running.


 Al


----------



## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

To piggyback onto Alleyoopers comments:

An elevated stand is a big help. Getting up off the ground ten feet or more gives you much better visibility and keeps some of your movement out of the deer's line of sight. They can and will spot you there if you're careless, but it's a big help. I like the ladder type stands with a rail around me, and please use a fall protection harness.

I'm a believer in camo. You don't need high dollar stuff, a simple set of cotton camo coveralls is fine. Add a camo hat some sort of face mask to cover your shiny face and some dark colored gloves and your good to go. Camo boots are a real joke. Any good old brown, black or green rubber boot is fine, tops are usually covered with your camo pants anyway.

I don't go to much trouble trying to mask scent, clothing prep, go scent free, etc. because a deer's nose is so good you can't fool it anyway. The way you beat a deer's nose is by playing the wind and setting your stand so that you are downwind of the deer when he passes by. Do that correctly and you can be smoking and covered in perfume and he won't smell you.


----------



## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Yes you can get off the ground quickly with a ladder stand. Keep in mind you get what you pay for and they go for less than 100.00 up to over 250.00.









My brother bought his from Wal Mart in 2001 and by 2006 a rung broke on his way down and he fall and broke his back.

Invest in a decent fall aresster and a good saftey harness. When I bought mine I got a jacket type rather than the strap type.

People have died falling out of there stand also while going up and down also. Many more are crippled today also.

 Al


----------

