# Build a 12 x 20' cabin for $2,000.



## Belfrybat (Feb 21, 2003)

This may have been posted before, but I didn't find it on a quick search. 

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-12x20-Cabin-on-a-Budget/?allsteps

I think the $2,000. only covers the shell, but at the bottom of the above page is a link to finishing the interior. 

I do think if I were to build something similar, I would have indoor plumbing with a sawdust toilet instead of the separate bath house this builder made.


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## MichaelK! (Oct 22, 2010)

That's not a cabin, it's a storage shed, no matter what size it is.

It's doesn't have a foundation, just 4X4 post sunk in cement. Untreated wood is touching the ground. It will just rot from the bottum up. The roof pitch is not approprieate for anywhere except the south because of snow load.

You can do better!


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## wharton (Oct 9, 2011)

MichaelK! said:


> That's not a cabin, it's a storage shed, no matter what size it is.
> 
> It's doesn't have a foundation, just 4X4 post sunk in cement. Untreated wood is touching the ground. It will just rot from the bottum up. The roof pitch is not approprieate for anywhere except the south because of snow load.
> 
> You can do better!


 
What? This is a small pole barn style building. Not only does it have a foundation, it is an economical and proven way to do the job. Pressure treated material is clearly used in all the proper locations in the pictures. Your roof pitch comment is incorrect for two reasons. First, low pitch roofs are common to many indigenous architectural styles in extreme climates, from Swiss farm houses to Alaskan trapper cabins. Second, it's rare to sustain a substantial snow load on a pitched metal roof. Controlling snow slides, and preventing damage below is a bigger problem than excess snow accumulation in many cases.

My only critique of the project is how he treated the rafter tails. If you can lay out the proper ridge cut, and bird's mouth on a rafter, you finish the job by plumb cutting the facia and level cutting the soffit BEFORE you install the rafter. Nailing a rafter in place, with the end running wild, and hacking the thing with a sawzaw is a needless, and clueless move. 

Overall, it's a sharp project, thanks for the link.


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## Muleman (Nov 8, 2013)

I like the basic idea. I have found in all my building a few things. Normally I build better, not cheaper than pre-made or having someone else do the job. In other words I have seldom saved money doing things myself, but the labor savings cost can be put into batter materials and a person is a little more picky when building for themselves. The caveat to that is you must have the skills to do the work correctly or all the motivation in the world is wasted because of simple, but sometimes costly mistakes.
If your main goal is to build a cheap house, in the end you will have a cheaply build house. If your main goal is to build the best house you can on a budget, in the end you may have something smaller or simpler than you wanted, but built well. I find it is never advantageous to rush into building something cheap, because you want it now and that is all your budget allows, better to save and plan a bit, then build well on a reasonable budget.


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## robsdak (Feb 2, 2014)

MichaelK! said:


> That's not a cabin, it's a storage shed, no matter what size it is.
> 
> It's doesn't have a foundation, just 4X4 post sunk in cement. Untreated wood is touching the ground. It will just rot from the bottum up. The roof pitch is not approprieate for anywhere except the south because of snow load.
> 
> You can do better!


did you read the post? clearly states what materials were used. just a storage shed. LOL very livable the way it is.

i would have done a few things different, like plywood under the roof panels, added studs in the walls, 2 x 10 rafters, 3/4" plywood floor, hurricanes clips and spray foam to the ceiling, walls and floor. to aid in making it energy efficient.


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## SeanT (May 9, 2014)

I built a 600 sq foot cabin on my property and did the shell for 2800. That includes insulating the floors....I used craigslist, got 1200 bucks worth of windows for free, i also got 28 sheets of 3/4 CDX for my flooring by letting a guy use an acre for his bees, ..if your on a budget CL can save you thousands ....roof pitch means nothing if your their to clean off the snow btw.


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## Dixie Bee Acres (Jul 22, 2013)

MichaelK! said:


> That's not a cabin, it's a storage shed, no matter what size it is.
> 
> It's doesn't have a foundation, just 4X4 post sunk in cement. Untreated wood is touching the ground. It will just rot from the bottum up. The roof pitch is not approprieate for anywhere except the south because of snow load.
> 
> You can do better!


I'm sorry, but you are just wrong....


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

I would like to have a cabin just like it....Good job.....


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## MushCreek (Jan 7, 2008)

Too bad that in many areas, you'd have to spend another $20K or more to meet code for human habitation- if they even let you live in something that small. Our various levels of government have made sure that our homes are safe, energy efficient, and way beyond the reach of most folks.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

I can guarantee that floor would be mush in 5 years here. It will hold moisture, animals will dig under and gophers will pile dirt up against the joists. There has to be air vents. Metal roof will rain inside without sheathing and moisture barrier. So many things wrong there, to work here....James


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## Dixie Bee Acres (Jul 22, 2013)

jwal10 said:


> I can guarantee that floor would be mush in 5 years here. It will hold moisture, animals will dig under and gophers will pile dirt up against the joists. There has to be air vents. Metal roof will rain inside without sheathing and moisture barrier. So many things wrong there, to work here....James


Here a metal roof alone will condensate and drip, but vapor barrier under the metal and insulation under that will stop that, no sheathing needed, at least in my experience.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

For a storage area yes, but a cabin or house, built the way that building was, that is occupied will have way too much condensation, here. My cabins have standing seam metal roofs and just tar paper on top of the sheathing with a 2" gap (Sheathing left 1" short at ridge on each side) with a continuous vent cap over the ridge. Concrete foundation with crawl space, well vented. Moisture barrier wall wrap over studs with 5/8" T-111 siding, stained, no paint, to let walls breath. 6" walls insulated with fiberglass bats, also 12" under floors. Blow in, in attic 18". Very dry and no mold anywhere.

Concreteboard siding, bubble wrap under metal roofing does not work here. I have seen many houses (1000 sq.ft. and smaller) that the cementboard siding, house wrap and sheathing, removed because the moisture gets trapped and the sheathing turns to mush (perfect for mushroom growth). All because of improper venting and poor ground moisture barrier. Mold growth everywhere....James


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## Kaos (Oct 7, 2008)

I have to agree with MicahelK, that's a storage shed.
Not knocking someone if they want to convert a storage shed into living quarters, but that link ( http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-12x20-Cabin-on-a-Budget/?allsteps ) is nothing more than a shed.
I too appreciate the post as I like looking at all types of construction ideas, just can't call that one a cabin. IMO


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## Dixie Bee Acres (Jul 22, 2013)

It's a shed because of size? Or because it isn't finished yet?


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## Kaos (Oct 7, 2008)

Dixie Bee Acres said:


> It's a shed because of size? Or because it isn't finished yet?


 Because it isn't finished or designed as a structure to live in. Size is fine.
Example would be buying an enclosed trailer to live in. Yes, you could add a plumbing, electrical, etc... but it was built and designed as a enclosed trailer, not a camper.
Same thing with this shed. The shell wasn't built with much foresight to living quarters. 3 windows and a door doesn't make it a cabin in my book.
In order to transform it into a "Cabin", there is much work left.
IMO


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## Belfrybat (Feb 21, 2003)

Kaos said:


> Because it isn't finished or designed as a structure to live in. Size is fine.
> Example would be buying an enclosed trailer to live in. Yes, you could add a plumbing, electrical, etc... but it was built and designed as a enclosed trailer, not a camper.
> Same thing with this shed. The shell wasn't built with much foresight to living quarters. 3 windows and a door doesn't make it a cabin in my book.
> In order to transform it into a "Cabin", there is much work left.
> IMO


Did you click on the link at the bottom of the page to see how it was finished inside? Very classy. And the builder did build it to be a cabin, not a shed. As to number of doors and windows, I lived in a nice small house for 5 years that only had one door and three windows. It was built in the late 1890's and was definitely built to be a house, not a shed.


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## Dixie Bee Acres (Jul 22, 2013)

I guess that's my own "wrong" opinion.
I think it is a fine CABIN, maybe not all that great of a HOUSE, but a fine cabin.
Friend of mine has a small cabin out in the woods. One door, one window, one room. No running water, no toilet, no kitchen, because it was built as a cabin, not a house.

So I suppose if you were hiking through the mountains or forest and came across a small building used maybe a few times a year for overnight hunting trips or otherwise, you would automatically think, shed, not cabin?


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

I participate in a hunting website and those guys refer to them as "Shabins" and seems like an inexpensive way to put up a small hunting camp that is functional as such....


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## TraderBob (Oct 21, 2010)

Jeez, I was going to post pics of what I am constructing for full time living, but now I'm not so sure 
Post and beam foundations work fine, as do deck blocks and posts if you're building on rock. 
Many a house / cabin have been built on them and are still around after 50 -75 years here, and being lived in. 
Good for him for building within in his means, and having something he enjoys, without incurring debt.
My well cost more than my house will.


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

Post it Bob, we would enjoy seeing it......


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## TraderBob (Oct 21, 2010)

The well was just drilled and cased. There will be no grid power out here, so I will be running a Sun Rotor SR-12 off solar for the well. 479ft, cased all the way due to hitting caves/voids in several places on the way down. Static level is 233ft









My son nailing in the joist hangers









My son once more, nailing down the subfloor. He has been a real blessing.









1st 32ft wall in place, this is where I am at as of this morning









I can only work early as I work from 11am to 11pm so a few hours a day working, and drive time eats up my availability.

Slowly but surely this will be an offgrid fulltime home.


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## DAVID In Wisconsin (Dec 3, 2002)

Very nice pictures, thanks.


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## Kaos (Oct 7, 2008)

Fine cabin!


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## Dixie Bee Acres (Jul 22, 2013)

Kaos said:


> Fine cabin!


Yeah, that's what I thought.


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

Ok I would get it up off the ground more and go with regular Stick Built. Be better and around same price, at least around here.

big rockpile


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

10X20 Cabin. We are going to build on 12 foot along the side.








big rockpile


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

TraderBob said:


> The well was just drilled and cased. There will be no grid power out here, so I will be running a Sun Rotor SR-12 off solar for the well. 479ft, cased all the way due to hitting caves/voids in several places on the way down. Static level is 233ft
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 You could draw the water by Hand with a Bucket. We did for years.

big rockpile


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

big rockpile said:


> Ok I would get it up off the ground more and go with regular Stick Built. Be better and around same price, at least around here.
> 
> big rockpile


X2. I like post and beam foundation instead of rim joists. The floor is built on top, not attached to the sides of the posts. If rim joists, make sure it is all fastened well, I have seen many pull away and sag. Build deck and then stud up walls on top. Here we need plastic on the ground to keep ground moisture from rotting the underside, if closed in, it needs plenty of vents for air circulation....James


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## TraderBob (Oct 21, 2010)

jwal10 said:


> X2. I like post and beam foundation instead of rim joists. The floor is built on top, not attached to the sides of the posts. If rim joists, make sure it is all fastened well, I have seen many pull away and sag. Build deck and then stud up walls on top. Here we need plastic on the ground to keep ground moisture from rotting the underside, if closed in, it needs plenty of vents for air circulation....James


Yep, that's what we did too. I've seen far too many built by nailing to the outside of the posts and the eventual sag to ever do that. Gotta cut those posts in.

Got another partial wall up today, as it rained yesterday, and is raining again now. I am so sick of this rain, would be nice to have a break for a bit, because we'll need it later and it won't come.

Hopefully, Friday we'll do an end wall and lay the joists up for the loft on that end to stabilize the sides, and give us a platform for when we do the roof.


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## HuskyBoris (Feb 14, 2013)

my house is built on stumps and rocks with untreated pine logs hand hewn and laid across the rocks,it's on a hill and well drained and for some reason it only had a little rot next to a where a rose bush used to be.I guess the wood was better 107 years ago


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## TraderBob (Oct 21, 2010)

So, a little update:
Went to work this morning, it was nice and cool, planned on getting the end wall up, supports for the loft, and the loft joists in....unfortunately, things never go as planned. 

Got the end wall up, and support posts on the right hand side. As I was cutting the supports for the left hand side, the compressor went BANG...and all the magic smoke came out. It wasn't even plugged in at the time. 

The start capacitor blew...so I pulled it out we packed it in and came home and will see if we can get a new one from one of the electric stores here.

Anyway, here is what we accomplished, although you can't see the supports for the loft joists.


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## Dixie Bee Acres (Jul 22, 2013)

Little progress is better than no progress. Sorry bout about your compressor.


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## TraderBob (Oct 21, 2010)

Just a little update: Maybe I should start a new thread?

Well, a little more progress today. Built the 4th wall and put in the support posts for the 2nd loft. Tomorrow I have a friend coming out to help me lift the wall into place, and to put up the loft joists...as much as my son wanted to do it today, he just doesn't have the strength or height..maybe next year Once the wall was built, he went and picked some blackberries while I was cleaning up. He's now happily eating some ice cream with fresh blackberries on it 

Here is a shot of where we are at, My son is nailing the top of the wall, and you can see the 1st loft joists behind him.


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## Dixie Bee Acres (Jul 22, 2013)

Looking good, but more importantly, I could sure go for a bowl of ice cream and blackberries right about now.


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## SecureLand (Feb 24, 2011)

I saw something on a youtube-small house video and they did a slab foundation and something about front/back door...some keep it as a mobile although on a slab and it passes...maybe youtube has some tricks to share or a nice inspector can give tips.


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## HuskyBoris (Feb 14, 2013)

looks like it is coming along good!I was going add this earlier but I didn't want to hijack the thread but I think I will now,my wife's cousin built this cabin for 75$,.
he answered an ad on craigslist for someone wanting to get rid of construction scrap,they threw away full and 1/2 sheets of osb,8 and 10 foot 2x4's etc etc,,I gave him the shingles I scavenged up and he sided it with the siding off the mobile home in the background and also used the windows from it,,the 75 bucks was for nails,screws,chargers for the nail gun,,it's 14x 20.,it's not finished in the picture but it's the only one I have.


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