# How to fix cracked plastic wheelbarrow tub???



## Drizler (Jun 16, 2002)

Here is one for the foolish. My daughter left her new plastic double wheeled 8 CF wheelbarrow in the horse pasture and guess what. Who would have believed it but one of the horses made a pretzel of it. I straightened and welded a couple steel reinforcement plates on the handles so those are stronger than when it left The Peoples Republic.
The barrow did get a crack running along the front lip area. It runs inwards just a half inch then parallels along the front so it didn't progress into the tub downwards but rather goes along 4 inches and back slightly towards the front. We probably lucked out with that really and I stop drilled it. Still, it does get the abuse of dumping right on that crack when it tips up. What would you guys use to fill that repair area? I was thinking of using a whole tube of automotive windshield urethane, the stuff they actually hold car windows in place with. Anything better or specific advice beyond the usual auto bodyshop methods of making it clean and gouging the hell out of the surface to assure better adhesion? I realize it's plastic and no matter what it's never gonna be close to 100 percent again. Anyone want some horse meat?:viking::viking:


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## deaconjim (Oct 31, 2005)

I've been trying to figure out the same thing. I bought a really nice one, and the first thing I put in it was a bag of mortar mix. Unfortunately I dropped it in, and promptly busted a hole through the bottom of my brand new wheel barrow.


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## 4nTN (Jan 28, 2005)

deaconjim said:


> I've been trying to figure out the same thing. I bought a really nice one, and the first thing I put in it was a bag of mortar mix. Unfortunately I dropped it in, and promptly busted a hole through the bottom of my brand new wheel barrow.



I did the same thing,only it`s not really a hole,just a large crack.


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## Alice In TX/MO (May 10, 2002)

Duct tape.


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## Rusty'sDog (Oct 14, 2010)

I'm looking for a new wheel barrow. Looks like I can cross off "plastic tub" as an option.
To me, a wheel barrow is a tool, and I buy tools expecting them to last a lifetime. I usually pay more 'up front', but don't have to re-buy every few years. The most expensive one in the long run will be the cheapest one at the check-out counter. You get what you pay for.


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## arcticow (Oct 8, 2006)

JBWeld should handle anything like that, but I would use the putty type on wheelbarrow tubs.


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## Drizler (Jun 16, 2002)

Rusty'sDog said:


> I'm looking for a new wheel barrow. Looks like I can cross off "plastic tub" as an option.
> To me, a wheel barrow is a tool, and I buy tools expecting them to last a lifetime. I usually pay more 'up front', but don't have to re-buy every few years. The most expensive one in the long run will be the cheapest one at the check-out counter. You get what you pay for.


Plastic is better for some things. It doesn't rust and it a lot lighter. We got ours since I already have a 25 year old steel one and needed something for bulk light things like hay and stall refuse. You can put a lot more in the big plastic tub than the steel but it has to be fairly light . Same goes for dropping things in there like rocks. You have to take it easy and not make it too heavy as well. Beyond that steel has it all over plastic. FWIW the tires on the Tractor Supply barrows and most others I suspect are ----, cracking in less than 6 months. Chinese tires of any make really are junk........:nono:


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## arabian knight (Dec 19, 2005)

I like my plastic tub, Nice to mix concrete in and then be able to rinse out much easier then any metal one IMMO..


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## mduncn52 (Sep 8, 2007)

Okay when I dropped a concrete block into my frozen wheelbarrow 4 years ago and it promptly opened a seam across the back of the tub and 1/3 of the way toward the front of the tub, I took a piece of sheet metal, shaped it to fit under the break and part way up the sides and back. I pop-riveted it in place and siliconed the devil out of all the seams. No problems since and the darn thing will hold water.


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## Lionrose (Jun 4, 2006)

I have one, have had it for a about 6-7 years now. Itâs a heavy plastic one. Donât remember what she was doing but my daughter dropped something heavy in it a few years ago and cracked the bottom of it. A good crack little over a foot long. I was upset to say the least. I used it for lots of things, it got loaded down and stored away for a year or so. I got over it an one day decided I needed it, so I dragged it out to see if I could patch it to use to mix cement in. 

I took some plastic I cut from coffee containers. Stuffed the crack as tight as I could with it. Then cut some wide pieces to cover the crack on the bottom then preceded to melt it with a hand held torch. Once I melted the wide strips to the bottom, I turned it over then melted the strips I had stuffed into the crack. As it was hot I used putty knife to press the plastic tight into the crack. I then melted the bottom enough to use the putty knife to push it over and mesh it to itself. 

Worked really well, am still using it to this day. Its still water tight too. 

D


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## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

Plastic welder if it is the right type of plastic

http://www.harborfreight.com/plasti...rm=67102&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=googlebase


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## arabian knight (Dec 19, 2005)

I guess if mine went that way and had such a huge hole and or large crack I would just go get a replacement tub, and for around 25 to 30 bucks and 4 bolts to take out, it is not worth my time to mess around with trying to do some kind of patch type job on it.
Note: In fact as I am thinking about it. The one I am using was once a Metal tub which rusted away and I Replaced it with a poly tub of which is still in good shape yet today many years after i replaced the metal tub..~!


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## travis91 (Jul 26, 2005)

We had one with a large crack in the side.. put a 1x4 on the outside and used some panhead sheetmetal screws form the inside of the tub into the 1x4


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## Drizler (Jun 16, 2002)

arabian knight said:


> I guess if mine went that way and had such a huge hole and or large crack I would just go get a replacement tub, and for around 25 to 30 bucks and 4 bolts to take out, it is not worth my time to mess around with trying to do some kind of patch type job on it.
> Note: In fact as I am thinking about it. The one I am using was once a Metal tub which rusted away and I Replaced http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/showthread.php?t=374933it with a poly tub of which is still in good shape yet today many years after i replaced the metal tub..~!


For 25 or 30 I would not even begin to bother. My question is try to get your hands on one for that price. I have news for you it aint gonna happen except for by net and then the oversize shipping is going to kick the price into orbit. That was the first option I looked into.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

Plastic has properties that make it useful for certain SHORT TERM uses. Its never going to be a lifetime product unless you plan on dieing sooner than later.

Steel will last a lifetime if you take care of it. That means not letting it set out in the weather year round and cleaning it out after use.

Modern wheelbarrow design is pathetic. It is a design meant for mixing mortar on construction sites century ago. There are much more efficient wheelbarrow designs for other uses, but they are not commercially produced.


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## Drizler (Jun 16, 2002)

HermitJohn said:


> Plastic has properties that make it useful for certain SHORT TERM uses. Its never going to be a lifetime product unless you plan on dieing sooner than later.
> 
> Steel will last a lifetime if you take care of it. That means not letting it set out in the weather year round and cleaning it out after use.
> 
> Modern wheelbarrow design is pathetic. It is a design meant for mixing mortar on construction sites century ago. There are much more efficient wheelbarrow designs for other uses, but they are not commercially produced.


That it be though the worst one beats using a shovel and a bucket. On the other hand the worst front end loader beats the best wheelbarrow hands down unless you happen to have a bunch of indentured servants kickin around. :clap:


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## CIW (Oct 2, 2007)

I weld some of the softer plastics with an electric iron. If your barrow is made with the plastic I'm thinking of, its the same as fenders on a 4 wheeler. Go to the motor bike shop and ask for a piece of beat up plastic fender. They give them to me. Take it home and strip it out about 3/8" wide. You can use that as the filler rod. The plastic rod that you can buy is too hard and will crack right along the weld. It helps to weld a backer patch of plastic behind the crack for support.
Some of the radiator shops weld plastic. You could check out the cost though it may be less to go and buy a new barrow.


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## Willowdale (Mar 19, 2007)

arcticow said:


> JBWeld should handle anything like that, but I would use the putty type on wheelbarrow tubs.


Agreed, JBWeld. I used it to patch a hole on the bottom of a 500 gallon plastic water tank. Years later, still holding up. Awesome stuff.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

Drizler said:


> That it be though the worst one beats using a shovel and a bucket. On the other hand the worst front end loader beats the best wheelbarrow hands down unless you happen to have a bunch of indentured servants kickin around. :clap:


Hmm, dont know that I wouldnt take a shovel and bucket over a wheelbarrow with a flat tire and no way to fix it.


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## ronbre (Apr 26, 2009)

we have a large plastic one that cracked ..we used tape and also glue, they really are crappy tools..we also have a metal one,


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

We have one of those over sized plastic wheel barrows that claimed to be for "construction" jobs. It was OK for a while but then I suppose the rocks out of the Pacelot River were too much for it and a hole busted smack in the middle of the plastic tub.

We took a small piece of plywood about the size of the bottom of the tub. Set it in place and then screwed through the plywood and into the handle supports and there are also metal support pieces running up under there and we just screwed the plywood down to the whole thing. Works great.


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## 7thswan (Nov 18, 2008)

Drill small holes, wire weave it shut with copper wire, then apply GOO or some other that is made for just plastic.


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## SLADE (Feb 20, 2004)

put some metal on the out side drill throug plastic and metal.rivet. seal the inside with your favorite goop.


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## Riverdale (Jan 20, 2008)

There are several types of a 2 part (epoxy) plasticweld.


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## badlander (Jun 7, 2009)

We use West System two part epoxy to fix cracks in plastic. Rough up the area to be repaired with 36 grit sandpaper, use fiberglass fabric patch over the area after wetting it with the epoxy. Do a front and back patch. For extra strength, you can brace the area with a strip of metal riveted across the break for and reinforce it that way. For a wheelbarrow you don't have to worry about cosmetics but we have used this process to repair motorcycle/dirtbike/scooter fairings and even rust spots on our vehicles with excellent results. Once upon a time we were into speed bike racing and worked with composite fabrication a lot.

Don't pitch your wheelbarrow without giving fixing it a try. I would with any repair, even the plastic patch they are talking about, use a metal strip with rivets to reinforce the break. If you don't, it's gonna let loose eventually in the same place.


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## Batt (Sep 8, 2006)

7thswan said:


> Drill small holes, wire weave it shut with copper wire, then apply GOO or some other that is made for just plastic.


I agree. I have used this method to to repair several plastic and hard rubber things around the place. Including the fender on my ATV that got cracked by a bad case of stupid. I used body epoxy to seal once the wiring was done.


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