# Securing jeep to car trailer



## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

I have decided to purchase a 14 ft. flatbed car trailer to haul my M38A1 jeep to shows and parades that are far away from where we live.

I am investigating methods of securing the jeep to the trailer with the use of rachet straps, tire nets, and/or chain and binders.

The jeep is built on a full-length frame (not a unibody), has front and rear axles, and rides relatively high on 7.00 x 16 tires, so routing tie-downs under the jeep should be too much of a hassle. 

My question is for those of you who tow vehicles on a trailer. How do you secure your vehicle to the trailer?


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

D rings.

Towing and tie down stuff.

http://www.awdirect.com/default2.asp?keyword=D rings


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## plowjockey (Aug 18, 2008)

Always by the tires or axles, not anything suspended.

Axles are fine, provided there is not interference with brake lines, etc.

Something like this.

Actually the ones I see used most are just a single ringed loop and a ratchet strap. That's what I'm looking to get now I just loop around axles or a-arm, but it a pain.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

I'd use short chains and load binders.
Straps would be harder to handle and not last as long

Most car hauling trailers already have attachment points for hooks, or you can place your own eyebolts

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=chain+binders+tractor+supply&FORM=HDRSC2

Attach a lockable box to the front of the trailer to store it all so you won't have to look for it


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

Bearfootfarm said:


> I'd use short chains and load binders.
> Straps would be harder to handle and not last as long
> 
> Most car hauling trailers already have attachment points for hooks, or you can place your own eyebolts
> ...



You beat me to it, lol.
Yes, get yourself some chains and binders......Cabin Fever, you can thank me later, lol.


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## plowjockey (Aug 18, 2008)

This is the one i see everybody using and I'll get when I have some mad money. No paint scratches or chain damage and easy. Chains and binders are overkill, for a #4000 vehicle, IME.

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Towin.../Side-Mount-Wheel-Net-W-Ratchet-and-Flat-Hook


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

If your
have tow hooks on the Jeep that is the anchor points I would use. Also I would use nothing except 3/8 in chain and binder and use locks on the binders and check them after you have driven a few miles.
It is what I use to tie down all the tractors I haul to shows and have never had a problem in over 25 years. My tractors weight from 2800 pounds to over 9000 pounds.
I did try some web tie down straps *ONCE, *It was frayed after just a couple hundred miles from rubbing where I thought there was clearance.





I have hauled my tractors many a thousand miles and never had a problem with tie downs.

 Al


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

I have two concerns. 

One issue is based on what I've read (and what plowjockey mentioned) is that it is best to secure the vehicle from the axle or tires....not from any part suspended by the springs....like the bumper, shackles, or frame. Securing from a sprung frame or frame member can result in a temporary loosening of the straps/chains when the trailer hits a bump or pothole which will cause the vehicle to bounce and thus creates slack in the straps/chains.

The problem I have with routing a chain or strap around the jeep's axles is that it would put pressure on the brake line....at least the front brake line which is behind the front axle. I don't want to crush or kink the brake line. I could route a strap/chain around the rear axle with out brake line damage because the rear brake line is on the backside of the axle.

The other issue is I would prefer a method that does not result in me getting all dirty trying to route things under the jeep. I will be towing the jeep to car shows and parades and would prefer to not get road grimes and grease on my arms or clothes.

What all this boils down to is - that at this point - I am leaning towards four tire nets similar to what plowjockey shows in his photos. Unless someone talks me out of it.

For the record, my M38A1 and M2 Browning weigh in at about 3000 lbs.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

Go with whatever you're comfortable with. I didn't know the weight of the vehicle at first, I should have realized a jeep model wouldn't be as heavy as the larger military vehicles.
I think over 5,000 lbs. I would trust a chain more than a strap, but with those straps on all 4 wheels, you should be ok.


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## coolrunnin (Aug 28, 2010)

Those tire webs work really well, just check them often when they are new, some brands tend to stretch.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

You can attach to suspended portions as long as you compress it well when you tighten things down. If you've already taken some of the travel out of the suspension, it's pretty unlikely you'd hit any bumps hard enough to compress it enough to come loose.

Angling the tiedowns will also allow some travel with no danger of unhooking



> For the record, my M38A1 and *M2 Browning* weigh in at about 3000 lbs


Did you see this thread?:
http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/co...efense-guns/545523-how-long-m2hb-50-good.html


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## plowjockey (Aug 18, 2008)

Cabin Fever said:


> I have two concerns.
> 
> One issue is based on what I've read (and what plowjockey mentioned) is that it is best to secure the vehicle from the axle or tires....not from any part suspended by the springs....like the bumper, shackles, or frame. Securing from a sprung frame or frame member can result in a temporary loosening of the straps/chains when the trailer hits a bump or pothole which will cause the vehicle to bounce and thus creates slack in the straps/chains.
> 
> ...


FWIW, I see car hauler trailers all day long, on I65, from singles, 2 or 3, up to the tractor trailer "Parking lots". they most all use tire straps, especially for collector vehicles. The big guys have slots that the straps hook in to, the little trailers hook to d rings, or sideboard pockets.

If your are going to haul the same vehicle, probably welding d-rings, in the prime spots, means securing the load in minutes.

I think the loop straps are rated at #12000 each.

That is an awesome looking jeep.


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## Allen W (Aug 2, 2008)

I would buy a bigger trailer, some day you will want to haul some thing besides the little jeep.


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## Laura Zone 5 (Jan 13, 2010)

Thursday, I will be renting a full car trailer to haul my 1995 Jeep Wrangler.
I will take lots of photos to show you how it's rigged up.


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

I do a LOT of Jeep towing,
You want to compress the suspension some so it doesn't bob around.
Some guys just strap axles down to the trailer, and the jeep bobs & weaves...

I use short straps with 'D' rings on both ends over the frame, or if the bumper is SECURELY bolted to the frame, the bumper.

Keep in mind that Jeep, FROM THE FACTORY, used soft bolts to secure bumper to frame,
So you would pull the bumper off before you bent the frame.
I HAVE SEEN BUMPERS PULLED OFF!

The short strap with D rings over the frame, the larger strap with hooks from trailer to D rings...
Both front and rear, 
Thousands of miles with no issues like this...


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

JeepHammer said:


> I do a LOT of Jeep towing,
> You want to compress the suspension some so it doesn't bob around.
> Some guys just strap axles down to the trailer, and the jeep bobs & weaves...
> 
> ...


 LOL - My US Army Willys jeep was made to be lifted by the four bumper shackles.


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## watcher (Sep 4, 2006)

Semi-pro advice here. I work part time in a business in which one part is shipping vehicles, THOUSANDS of vehicles.

Almost ever unit moved today is secured by 4 straps going over the tires. There's a hook on the end of the strap which is secured to the truck/trailer just ahead of the tire, a second hook which the strap can slide through is secured behind the tire and the ratchet end of the strap is secured farther back. 

I have to dissuade you from using the 'lasso' strap method shown in post #6. It puts stress on the suspension and/or steering system in a direction it was not designed to receive and can cause damage.

If you want to use chains you can buy car hauling chains which have 'hook bundles' on the end which has special hooks to fit into specific slots in the frame of some older vehicles. I don't know if one as old as your jeep would have one. If you have an auto transport business near you they would probably give you some old hook bundles and you to attach them to a ratchet strap. Easier than trying to deal with tighten chains.

One last thing. Doesn't it have towing shackles? If so just criss-cross some straps, i.e. attach a ratchet to the left side of the trailer and the right shackle and the one on the right to the left.


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

watcher said:


> ....One last thing. Doesn't it have towing shackles? If so just criss-cross some straps, i.e. attach a ratchet to the left side of the trailer and the right shackle and the one on the right to the left.


Technically, this are called "lifting shackles." There are two on the front and two on the back. The front two shackles are shown in the photo below.

I have read where it is cautioned to not tie-down a vechile from any part of the frame that is "sprung." In other words, the frame is carried by the springs and tying down the frame compresses the springs. On occassion, when towing one might hit a bump or pothole that will cause the vehicle to bounce. The bounce can temporarily loosen the straps or chains causing the vehicle to shift on the trailer.


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## watcher (Sep 4, 2006)

Cabin Fever said:


> Technically, this are called "lifting shackles." There are two on the front and two on the back. The front two shackles are shown in the photo below.
> 
> I have read where it is cautioned to not tie-down a vechile from any part of the frame that is "sprung." In other words, the frame is carried by the springs and tying down the frame compresses the springs. On occassion, when towing one might hit a bump or pothole that will cause the vehicle to bounce. The bounce can temporarily loosen the straps or chains causing the vehicle to shift on the trailer.


Back in the stone age all vehicles were transported by attaching hooks into the frame (there are/were actually specific holes built into the frames for this) and pulling it down against the springs. A lot of larger units, e.g. pickups, are still done this way. They switched when they started making the frames so thin that hooks would tear out of the frame or the drivers were actually bending the frames when they secured the unit.

The big thing is the direction you apply the force. You want to, if possible, you want to try to 'compress' the unit. Either pull the front toward the back and the back toward the front or the left toward the right toward the left and left toward the right.


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

No, not exactly...
The Bantum car company designed the original recon and general purpose car the military adopted,
Notice 'Willys' or 'Jeep' never entered into that statement.

Build contracts for the 'General Purpose 1/4 ton, 4x4' vehicle went to 5 manufacturers.
The inventors, Bantum, wasn't one of the builders, getting a minor contract to build light trailers for their invention.

The name 'Jeep' was derived from two sources,
'General Purpose', abbrivated to 'GP' by troops,
And a critter in the 'Popeye' comics that could walk up walls called 'Jeep'.

After WW II, the Willys car company purchased the rights to build a 'Civillian' version of the 1/4 ton 'truck', which didnt get the name 'Jeep' until later due to copyright on the 'Jeep' name by the cartoon syndicate that produced the 'Popeye' series.

So if you 'Claim' to have a 'War Time' 'Willys' or 'Jeep',
You should probably reconsider arguing with someone named 'JeepHammer' with a field & garage full of 'Jeeps'...


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

And by the way, that's a 3rd evloution 'Jeep' in the picture,
Its a CJ dressed up to look like a military 1/4 Ton GP.

The first two evolutions of the 'Jeep' had flat fenders.

*IF* It were an actual military 'Jeep' instead of an M38 or CJ5,
It would have lift rings mounted on the wheel hubs.
Military 'Jeeps' were lifted by the axle ends since they were stacked on top of each other.
Bumper/Frame rings wouldn't work for stacked shipping.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

It's a jeep and a dog gone helluva vehicle.
Nobody that's ever owned one or has any sense is gonna successfully argue with THAT.
The man just wanted advice on how to secure it to a trailer. Besides, it looks like he's got a .50 caliber mounted on it and knows how to use it.
Who wants to argue with that?

LOL


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

See the flat fenders on the MB/MBW?
See the lift rings on the axle hub ends?










Those lift rings are SCARCE, since the troops used to break the ring off with a hammer when they landed...
I have a couple of sets for those old closed knuckle axles/hubs, but they aren't common by any means!


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

I have a couple of CJ-2As (Willys), post WW II, on the project board,
Mostly I deal with AMC years of CJs.

I can't keep a WW II Jeep, every time I get one done, someone wants it WAY MORE than I do and forks over the $$$ so they own it.
The true war time MB/MBWs are getting scarce, and when I do find one, it's usually more corrosion/rust than 'Jeep', so you pretty much have to jack up the ID plate and park a new Jeep under it...


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

farmrbrown said:


> It's a jeep and a dog gone helluva vehicle.
> Nobody that's ever owned one or has any sense is gonna successfully argue with THAT.
> The man just wanted advice on how to secure it to a trailer. Besides, it looks like he's got a .50 caliber mounted on it and knows how to use it.
> Who wants to argue with that?
> ...


Part Garden Tractor, Part Mountain Goat, And ALL GO!
There is no stopping these things, even the old 4 cylinder, small axle versions.

Take a later Jeep, do a little work on the axles, and you have a 'Go Cart' with a V-8 engine that simply doesn't have any 'Quit' in it.

The guys can rant and rave about the current production 'Plastic' 4x4s,
The 'Barbie' versions of the 'Jeep' with bun warmers, power everything, tampon dispensers...
But when it comes to all metal, all go, no quit, go anywhere, you just can't beat an old 'Jeep' that is dirt simple to work on when it needs it!

AMC bought 'Jeep' from Kaiser, and '_ALMOST_' got it right... Then went broke on things like the 'Pacer' and 'Matador'...

I look for the Dana 44 rear axles, shove a D-44 in up front, plug in a V-8 with that gear to gear transfer case (no chain to break),
Manual shift, Manual brakes, Manual steering, Axle Lockers and you simply can't stop that vehicle.
I pull plows, discs, drag out trees, set roof trusses, ect with my little all metal Jeep...


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

JeepHammer said:


> And by the way, that's a 3rd evloution 'Jeep' in the picture,
> Its a CJ dressed up to look like a military 1/4 Ton GP.
> 
> The first two evolutions of the 'Jeep' had flat fenders.
> ...


Now there you are wrong. My M38A1 military jeep, made by Willys, is 100% military. It is NOT a dressed up CJ by any means. The M38A1 never had lift rings on the wheel hubs. The wheel hubs on a military M38A1 were simple grease cups (see diagram below from the military manual) In the case of my M38A1, I installed lockout hubs on the front axle. On a M38A1, the front drive is always engaged. I did not want mine to always be engaged and thus the lockout hubs.


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

JeepHammer said:


> So if you 'Claim' to have a 'War Time' 'Willys' or 'Jeep',
> You should probably reconsider arguing with someone named 'JeepHammer' with a field & garage full of 'Jeeps'...


Not sure what your point is. I do CLAIM to own a military M38A1 jeep made by Willys (sometimes referred to as the Willys MD). It's not a WWII Willys MB or a WWII Ford GPW or a military Willys M38. It's a military M38A1 which was used by all branches of the military since Korea to early Vietnam. The Ford M151 jeep followed the M38A1 and then came the AM General HMMWV. Look it up.


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

Not quite.
The M38 wasn't a 'War Time' Jeep, it was a civilian version the military sometimes used as motor pool vehicles, 
Along with every other imaginable vehicle from pickups to Falcons, to Pacers...

The 915 truck was military specification, and was the smallest vehicle that was military dedicated during Viet Nam.
Korea used anything and everything, mostly WW II surplus laying around,
Produced but not shipped to Europe/South Pacific.

The CJ-6 was the 'Dedicated' vehicle produced for the military,
Replaced by the M151 'Mutt'... 
Then the 'HUMVEE' (Hummer) as basic people movers.

See, when I joined the military, they were still using some CJ-6 issued vehicles,
Then the 'Mutt', aptly named,
Then the retarded monstrosity you all call a 'Hummer',

One other thing, since you mention Korea,
Production of the M38 didn't start until '52, The first M38's hit Korea in '53,
This is a picture of a restored MILITARY '53 M38...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Flickr_-_DVS1mn_-_53_Willys_Jeep_(1).jpg

Notice the flat fenders?


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

I guess I have to do the research for you. You said in an earlier post that my M38A1 jeep was a CJ-5. A CJ-5 is a "Civilian Jeep" thus the CJ in its name.

I do not have a flat fender M38 jeep, I have the later M38A1 which was produced starting in 1952. It is a MILITARY JEEP and not a CIVILIAN JEEP. 

If you can (and I know you can't) give me one item you see on my jeep that would differentiate if from a M38A1 to a CJ5.

Read the first line of this link to find out who the M38A1 was built for: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willys_M38A1

Now, go read this link for thw Willys Cj series of jeeps: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_CJ

BTW, who published the manula below? The US military, of course. It's for the M38A1 jeep, not the CJ-5 or the CJ-6.









Here is a list of the jeeps used by the US Military...no mention of any CJ models: http://www.m38a1.com/Resources/history.htm


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> You should probably *reconsider arguing* with someone named 'JeepHammer' with a field & garage full of 'Jeeps'...


I'd be more inclined to believe that if I hadn't seen you post so much obvious misinformation on this and various other topics, usually in long winded, unsolicited "tutorials" in which you proclaimed yourself an "expert".


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

JeepHammer said:


> Not quite.
> The M38 wasn't a 'War Time' Jeep, it was a civilian version the military sometimes used as motor pool vehicles,
> Along with every other imaginable vehicle from pickups to Falcons, to Pacers...
> *Not sure what this information has to do with your accusation that my jeep is a CJ-5 and not a M38A1. I do not have a M38. I have a M38A1. The two military jeep models (M38 and M38A1) are quite different jeeps.
> ...


Here are a couple more photos of a M38A1s:


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

Humm... 
A CJ-5 leading a column of M-60 tanks in a prade.
No flat finish paint on the tanks or jeep, NOT COMBAT PRODUCTION.

M-60, pressed into service in 1960, well beyond the KOREAN WAR...
Notice the 'Spring' Mounts riveted on TOP the frame in the front?
Where the shackles are mounted?
Try and lift a jeep by that sheet metal, single riveted spring mount...
That was a TOW point, not a lift mount, never intended to support the weight of TWO Jeeps when stacked...

The shiny paint job should tell you it was a parade/motor pool vehicle,
You don't use shiny paint in combat...

Tank Commander saluting on the third tank back, I'd say they are passing a review stand with general officers present in this particular parade...

Second picture up shows an M38-A1 in Germany after the war, during rebuilding which took until 1965...
No fold down windshield, No combat light switch on the left side of the steering wheel, which means it doesn't have a 24 volt electrical system...
Can't fold down the windshield, CIVILIAN/MOTOR POOL VEHICLE.
Combat vehicles ALL had fold down windshields so you could SHOOT from a COMBAT vehicle...

Yeah, I know, I'm not supposed to know/notice the difference in your 'Pictures' that are supposed to be 'Combat' vehicles...

The fact of the matter is, Without that big electrical light switch on the left side of the steering column, the vehicle doesn't have 'Black Out' lights that work,
And all 'COMBAT' vehicles have black out lights...
That is ONE BIG HONKIN SWITCH, it's REALLY easy to see, providing it's there...

Later versions of the M38-A1 had fold down windshields, when Willys went belly up and Kaiser got ahold of the company, windshields folded down again on the Civilian versions.
Windshields folded down on ALL Combat versions.
Windshields continued to fold until the end of CJ production in '86... Even through the AMC years...

---------------

Again, mistaking the 'M38-A1' for the M38 which had flat fenders.

The M38-A1 was a CJ pressed into motor pool service.

MILITARY PRODUCTION was a flat fender or round fender CJ-6, (CJ-5 with long bed).
Civilian Production is easy to spot... 12 volt starting/charging system.

MILITARY PRODUCTION has 24 volt charging system, cut outs for radio power connection plugs, holes drilled into body for antenna mounts, no matter if the mounts are there or not... Plugs in the hole, but EVERY military production vehicle had the holes...
Same for 'Pioneer' tool mounts...

Civilian versions didn't have the holes, just indentations in the sheet metal for the pioneer tools.
Motor Pool used vehicles didn't have pioneer tools, so just indentations, no holes,
Motor Pool used vehicles had 12 volt starting/charging systems,
No Deep Water ignition kits, ect.

That's the simple, easy version of how to tell if you have a Military version, or just a civilian version pressed into motor pool use...


Not that I expect most folks to know the difference between 'COMBAT' vehicles and Civilian/Motor Pool Versions...
But you would *THINK* a Jeep owner would know the difference between civilian and combat versions,
The difference between M38, M38-A1, M38-A2, ect.

SO, to RECAP,
NO BLACK OUT LIGHTS, BIG HONKIN BLACK OUT LIGHT SWITCH, NON-COMBAT.
NO PIONEER TOOL MOUNTS, NON-COMBAT VERSION.
NO AXLE/HUB LIFT RINGS, NON-COMBAT VERSION.
NO TWO BOLT, SOLID LIFT SHACKLE MOUNTS IN THE FRONT (LIKE IN THE FIRST PICTURE FROM ABOVE) NON-COMBAT VERSION.
NO DEEP WATER PROOFING KIT ON IGNITION, NON-COMBAT VERSION.
NO 24 VOLT STARTING/CHARGING SYSTEM, NON-COMBAT VERSION.
NO FOLD DOWN WINDSHIELD, NON-COMBAT VERSION.
NO PRE-DRILLED HOLES FOR ANTENNA MOUNTS, NON-COMBAT VERSION.

Not that I don't respect the 'Motor Pool/Civilian Versions, they are very capable.

But to get the better suspension, the heavier duty axles (Dana 25 and later Dana 27 closed knuckle), the large pinion Dana T-18 Transfer case, Black Out Lights that WORK,
It MUST be the combat version...

Civilian/Motor Pool versions ALL had shiny paint, and the 'Lesser' or 'Older' versions of axles, transfer cases, ect.
Some of the civilian/motor pool version were TWO WHEEL DRIVE for crying out loud!
Might as well have been driving a Pacer or Comet... At least they had the option of air conditioning!


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

And AGAIN, 
You are missing the point ENTIRELY...
Will you be willing to stack TWO Jeeps like yours together,
Then let me lift the bottom one by that sheet metal shackle mount?
(Instead of the early solid block mount the shackle fit on the OUTSIDE of?, or the axle lift rings that are the normal way to lift TWO Jeeps stacked together)

Where is your black out light switch?
The center point for the entire electrical system on M38 combat vehicles,
There on ALL 24 volt systems, which was combat military production...

Where are the holes for all 4 antenna mount positions?
I'll settle for the spring clip plugs that were put in the holes, but where are the holes?

You are NOT differentiating between COMBAT & Motor Pool/Civilian versions...

Finding a COMBAT M38 is VERY hard to do since most of them wound up in Europe or South East Asia, the South Pacific.
I saw them all over the world, Don't see many here and they are HIGHLY PRIZED when you do find a 24 volt, true combat version in the US.

That's why when I run onto even the base parts for a combat version, I stick it on the shelf...


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

Bearfootfarm said:


> I'd be more inclined to believe that if I hadn't seen you post so much obvious misinformation on this and various other topics, usually in long winded, unsolicited "tutorials" in which you proclaimed yourself an "expert".


Really, that's the BEST you can do with the bandwidth?... :catfight: A
And you have the unmitigated GALL to post up this 'Blanket Statement' and present it as 'Fact'...

Seems to me the 'Experts' are the ones with the DETAILS...
Not some 'Vague' idea of how things are 'Supposed' to go together.

That's why technical manuals are so 'Long Winded', because they have DETAILS on how things ACTUALLY work instead of some general idea you can plunk down in one sentence...


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> And you have the unmitigated GALL to post up this 'Blanket Statement' and present it as 'Fact'...


It is a fact, based on observation here and on other forums.



> Seems to me the 'Experts' are the ones with the DETAILS...


The real experts have the *correct* details.
The wannabes just ramble and hope no one notices the errors.

You can say anything you want to try to convince me how "knowledgeable" you are, but it's not going to change what I've already seen, so why waste your time? 

I don't read most of what you post now :shrug:


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

JeepHammer said:


> Humm...
> 
> Later versions of the M38-A1 had fold down windshields, when Willys went belly up and Kaiser got ahold of the company, windshields folded down again on the Civilian versions.
> Windshields folded down on ALL Combat versions.
> ...


A few more items that differentiate the military M38A1 from the civilian model CJ-5/6.


A circular well or indentation in the right front fender which has a slave receptacle mounted in it. My M38A1 has this, a CJ-5/6 does not.
A heavy duty frame which has mounting brackets for a M31C tripod pedestal for a machine gun. My M38A1 has this, a CJ-5/6 does not.
A M38A1 does not have a tailgate. My M38A1 does not have a tailgate, a CJ-5/6 does.
And since the CJ-5 has a tailgate, it's spare tire is mounted on the right side of the tub. Like all M38A1s, my spare is mounted on the rear of the tub.
The glove box on the M38A1 is on the left side of the dash (this is where mine is). The glove box on the CJ-5 is on the right side of the dash.
A M38A1 has a military 3-lever light switch. My M38A1 has this, a CJ-5/6 does not.
A removeable instrument cluster panel. My M38A1 has this, a CJ-5/6 does not.
24-volt receptacle on the inside fender to supply power to communication radios, spotlights, etc. My M38A1 has this, a CJ-5/6 does not.
The F-head Hurricane engine in a M38A1 has a serial number that starts with MDxxxxx. My M38A1 has such a serial number, a CJ-5 will not.
A M38A1 has a large brass data plate mounted on right side of dashboard as mine does. A CJ-5 does not have such a data plate.
As mentioned earlier, the M38A1 has its batteries contained outside of the engine bay in a compartment within the cowl. My m38A1 has such a compartment. A CJ-5/6 has its battery mounted inside the engine bay.
The fuel neck on a M38A1 is about 4" in diameter. On a CJ-5 the neck is about 2". My M38A1 has a approx. 4" inch fill neck diameter.
That's enough for now. The point is my jeep is a military M38A1 thru and thru. It is not a CJ-5 like you claimed it was.


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

Oh, in regards to being lifted by the lifting shackles. Yes, M38A1s were lifted by the front and rear shackles, not by hub rings.


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

Stack them two deep and see how that turns out for you...


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

I thought your point was claiming that my jeep was not a military M38A1 but a civilian CJ-5. Now all of a sudden your point has to do with stacking jeeps? :shrug:


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

It doesn't matter, you are NEVER going to admit there was a 'Civilian' M38 produced that didn't have the required 'Combat' military gear,
And you are never going to admit the US Military used the civilian version for motor pool vehicles...

The fact of the matter is,
If it's NOT 24 volt system, it's not a military combat jeep, it was a motor pool/parade vehicle, not the combat version.

It's your Jeep, you are driving it in parades, have a good time...
Call it anything you want to.


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

JeepHammer said:


> It doesn't matter, you are NEVER going to admit there was a 'Civilian' M38 produced that didn't have the required 'Combat' military gear,
> I assume you're referring to the CJ-3A, if so, yes I admit you are correct. Willys made a CJ-3A which was very similar in appearance to a military M38. Some may call the CJ-3A a "civilian M38."
> 
> And you are never going to admit the US Military used the civilian version for motor pool vehicles...
> ...


To anyone left reading this thread, sorry about the thread drift. But I will not tolerate someone calling my military M38A1 a civilian jeep.

My M38A1 24 volt system with two Interstate batteries in series.









The data plate on my M38A1 dash.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

Slap me and call me silly, but MY first clue it was military was that big ole .50 caliber mounted on the back............eep:


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## JeepHammer (May 12, 2015)

Now all you need are the antenna mounts, black out light switch, lift rings at the wheels, ect. to restore it.

Funny, you didn't show any of this when the discussion started and you turned it into an argument...


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

I am not going to search for any wheel lift rings. Never seen a M38A1 with them. But I am planning on purchasing the antenna and mount, as well as, the fording gear.

FYI, here's my light switch_











_


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## joejeep92 (Oct 11, 2010)

I throw one big car strap on each corner and forget it is there. Hauled more Jeeps than I can remember or want to count. I may have a problem...


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

joejeep92 said:


> I throw one big car strap on each corner and forget it is there. Hauled more Jeeps than I can remember or want to count. I may have a problem...


Joe, where on the jeep do you attach the straps?


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## coolrunnin (Aug 28, 2010)

Why not the same way the military hauled their jeeps crossed chains from the lift shackles. Military equipment I hauled when it still payed was done by this method and never had a problem sometimes over a 1000 miles loaded


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