# RV Trailer - wood frame repair - help!



## silvergirl (Jul 30, 2006)

Hi, I am just about to purchase a 1978 Prowler RV Trailer to live in for a few months. It is in great shape inside and has everything I need. The problem is in the frame - on the driver's side, the outside paneling has come away from the wood frame because the wood is rotten. The gap is fairly small, but it is significant. I need to know how to repair this kind of damage. 
The front of the trailer is connected to wooden 2 X 2 with trim secured by rivets, and the siding fits under the edge of that trim. The rivets have no wood to hold onto anymore, so that 2 X 2 will need to be replaced. 
Has anyone done anything like this before and how do I go about fixing the problem? The other owner copped out with duct tape to keep more water out! 
I'm told the problem needs to be repaired or the side of the trailer could open up on the road and tear away, causing a major accident, but I don't know if the person telling me that was exaggerating or not...
Thanks
Silvergirl


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## Windy in Kansas (Jun 16, 2002)

I'd like to see opinions of others on this, but I suspect that a TEMPORARY and improper repair could be made by drilling through the siding and injecting low expanding foam insulation. The way polyurethane sticks I expect it would hold the siding to keep it from peeling while driving along.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

Temporary repairs just make more problems down the road (literally). Suspect easiest to remove the interior panelling in that area and repair it correctly, maybe using treated lumber since for whatever reason this area seems to be getting enough moisture to cause rot. And yes better to correct the moisture problem, but sometimes that is very difficult and may have been a design defect from the manufacturer.

I have little enthusiasm for trailers or mobile homes to live in for any extended time, but I know they are necessary evil sometimes due to weird local laws that allow them, but dont allow a tiny well built home.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

If its only for a short time I'm with Windy. Blast if full of low expansion foam. Expect no return on the trailer when you sell and you'll likely be happy. You could sink some 4-5 inch screws with repair washers to snug it in where ever they'll grab. And/or throw on a ratchet strap around the trailer so it's held.


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## silvergirl (Jul 30, 2006)

Thanks guys - the foam may be a possibility - I hadn't thought of that option but I'd rather make proper repairs if I possibly can...

Is it possible to repair the damage from the outside? I can't even begin to imagine how hard it would be to take the insides out of the trailer! Have you ever taken a trailer apart? 

I am not planning to sell it again, though, so if it comes down to it, jury-rigging the repair wouldn't decrease the value for me. The fellow I am buying it from only wants $800 for it... which is a steal for a functional roof over my head... 

I got the trailer to live in because I have been out of work for a year and a half and finally landed a job an hour and a half from home - I am falling asleep on the drive to work and it is getting dangerous. Relocating isn't an option because of our farm... I still have to support it and my husband, so I have to keep my costs minimal. There is a year round park a few hundred yards from my new job... I'm teaching at one school this semester and a school even further away next semester (in that same county), so having the trailer will be a godsend, if I can get it repaired well enough to transport safely and to live in with some degree of comfort...

Any further advice or instructions would be most welcome...


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Is there any way you can post pictures of the problem?


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## TNHermit (Jul 14, 2005)

Agree with Clovis. Pics would be nice. you can take the siding off and replace the wood using a pocket screw technique. You don't actually have to guy a pocket hole jig. I can show you.
Those things are usually put together with a corrugated fastener But I could be wrong.

Probably be helpful if you list what tools you had at your disposal

Jigs saw
Drill and bits
Screws
Lumber


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

Have you checked with the park you intend to use if they allow older trailers, some dont, especially privately run camping parks (doesnt matter how good shape they are in). Also what their maximum stay time is, few want year round tenants.

Normally I would have said work from outside, but wait until you deal with that thin aluminum, getting it off, then getting it back to look halfway decent. But I also know these type vehicles have lot little cupboards and crap inside to try and maximize space utilization. So maybe a toss up. I'd still go with trying to keep exterior looking decent/original, moreso than the inside. Spiffy looking outside, means less hassle with cops and park people and whatever. If the thing starts looking really patched and cobbled, nobody in authority will give you much sympathy.


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## Windy in Kansas (Jun 16, 2002)

Since you are wanting to do it right I sure wouldn't make a temporary patch with the foam. It would make a permanent repair much more difficult as it extremely difficult to get off of things.


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## fordy (Sep 13, 2003)

silvergirl said:


> Hi, I am just about to purchase a 1978 Prowler RV Trailer to live in for a few months. It is in great shape inside and has everything I need. The problem is in the frame - on the driver's side, the outside paneling has come away from the wood frame because the wood is rotten. The gap is fairly small, but it is significant. I need to know how to repair this kind of damage.
> The front of the trailer is connected to wooden 2 X 2 with trim secured by rivets, and the siding fits under the edge of that trim. The rivets have no wood to hold onto anymore, so that 2 X 2 will need to be replaced.
> Has anyone done anything like this before and how do I go about fixing the problem? The other owner copped out with duct tape to keep more water out!
> I'm told the problem needs to be repaired or the side of the trailer could open up on the road and tear away, causing a major accident, but I don't know if the person telling me that was exaggerating or not...
> ...


..................Most likely the reason the wood structure is rotten in the walls , is that , there is\are water leaks in the rubber roof !! It will flow downward by gravity and INfect every piece of wood it can reach . So , you need to do your DUE diligence and TRY too determine the extent of the OVerall dammge before spending your $$ . 
http://www.bestmaterials.com 
.................Eternabond is THE BEST repair material available to the general public . You simply clean the hole , dry , cut a piece of the eternabond , affix over the hole and use a small roller too seal . IF , you order a role of the eternabond I very strongly recommend that you order the small wooden roller , as well ! The roll size you want is ....4" x 50 feet ! This is absolutely the best stuff going for roof repair . , fordy


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## fordy (Sep 13, 2003)

.............My first post too this thread isn't showing UP , on my pooter so who knows ! 

http//:www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341

..............The above should show you the white roll of eternabond , 4" x 50 feet for $53.15 . , fordy:cowboy:


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## tamsam (May 12, 2006)

I more or less had the same problem on my motor home. No rot but flex had caused the back section to come out from under the trim that goes down the side. Very carefully start at the end of the trim. I assume it goes to the corner. It also most likely has a rubber strip in the center of the trim. Carefully remove the rubber strip and see what holds the trim on. Most likely rivets. With a good sharp drill bit drill the rivets out so you can remove the trim. I will guess that the siding will come loose with the molding. Once you get it loose you should be able to see how much is rotted out. I am hoping this is working for you. Measure what pieces you need to replace and cut to fit. I used liquid nails and L brackets with coarse thread drywall screws to fasten my replacement parts in. Now use more liquid nails and very carefully put the siding back in place. Once you have it in place hold the trim up and see if your holes line up. If they do use a very good silicon and put a good layer on to seal the top of the siding. Now you need to rivet the trim back before the silicon sets up. Now you should be ready to put the rubber back in the trim. I hope this helps you as this is how I fixed mine. Sam


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## Wingdo (Oct 5, 2002)

I took a 5' long piece of 2" PVC pipe and used it for a backup strip when repairing split panel a travel trailer one time. It was relatively easy to do with 1/2" rivets and is still holding today according to the fella that takes the old girl to Wyoming every year to hunt... and that was almost 15 years ago. A photo of the situation would make it easier to come up with a plan though.


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## chuckhole (Mar 2, 2006)

What is typically used for wooden boats and fiberglass boats with wooden components that have this problem is a thin epoxy called Git-Rot. I always bought mine at West Marine - http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/11628-git-rot-penetrating-epoxy-16-oz.html.

You drill small holes into the rotted area so that the mixed epoxy can be injected into the wood through these small holes (1/4" diameter). It will penetrate the rotted fibers and stabilize them enough so that repairs can be made.

This is also a temporary solution but not as temporary as many others. The problem with foam is not the bonding power it has. It can stick to water almost. The problem is penetration and stabilization of the wood fibers. Foam has a high compression strength but no shear strentgh so it will not add to the structure the same as epoxy will.

You may have to use this in conjunction with selective replacement of the wood parts. The Git-Rot epoxy will help bond the remaining rotted material to the new wood replacements.


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

You do realize it is going to be cold in the winter, and if you use the propane stove for heat or cooking the walls will condense out the moisture and be dripping wet? If you were in Florida, it might work. North Carolina? Ouch.


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