# Bearing Replacement PICS- Disk Harrow



## Up North (Nov 29, 2005)

The inner race is seized on shaft, much like a wedding ring on a finger.








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Damaged parts on RH side. Half Spool and bearing, bearing bolts ruined.
New parts and complete assembly on LH side.








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As the bearing race is against shoulder a puller cannot be readily used.
As shown, cut the bearing race using a Cutting Torch. Using a welding glove(CAUTION-HOT), grasp shaft and rotate 180 degrees, then cut bearing race again.








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Using a cold chisel and heavy hammer(like those shown below assembly), peel the two halves of the bearing race away from shaft.








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Two halves will fall away. Note halves on ground in photo. Now you are ready to clean shaft for reassembly. Remove any slag or rust with wire brush, chisel, or steel wool as needed.








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One technique I use is to grease any new bearing or fittings prior to assembly. Saves a knuckle scraping job if one must replace a grease fitting in a tight spot after assembly.








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Assemble and bolt up tight.








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Assembly complete. Make sure to install large cotter pin thru large end nut and shaft to lock nut in place.








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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

If you don't have cuting torch then you can use a hammer against both sides of the bearing race and it will break. Just be sure that pieces won't fly off and hurt yourself. I have done this many times and would place a rag around the race and hit it with a hammer and it will break just make sure that the rag will cover all parts so they willnot fly on to yourself or any other person that is close.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Another method is to weld a large continuous filet around the exterior of the old race. The welding will create enough heat to expand the inner race but since the filet is continuous the filet does not allow the race to contract as it cool thus creating a clearance and the race can be taken off the shaft. This works very good for removing bearing races where shaft damage cannot be tolerated.


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## DaleK (Sep 23, 2004)

Ooops


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## DaleK (Sep 23, 2004)

No fair cheating and making it the bearing at the nut end of the shaft UpNorth. The challenge is when it's in the middle of the gang or at the head end and the good bearings are stuck onto the shaft too.
Just did three on three different gangs on our 22' Ezee-On. Chain the back side of the disk to a BIG tree, hook the 6420 onto the head of the shaft, pull as straight as possible. When the tractor stalls out after 10", try again. Averages about 6 stalls to get the shaft out. Then make sure the new bearings go at the hardest end of the shaft to access.


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

agmantoo said:


> Another method is to weld a large continuous filet around the exterior of the old race. The welding will create enough heat to expand the inner race but since the filet is continuous the filet does not allow the race to contract as it cool thus creating a clearance and the race can be taken off the shaft. This works very good for removing bearing races where shaft damage cannot be tolerated.


You can also run a bead on the inside of the race its self and the weld will pull the race shrinking it just enough to pull out once cool , same with arching an axle by running a bead down it .
If your heating the bearing to get it off use water and quick cool it a couple times the steam will penitrate and loosen the bearing , using oil will cause a carbon build up and make it nearly impossible to remove ( a trick taught me by an old welder who forgot more than most of us will ever learn)


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## michiganfarmer (Oct 15, 2005)

agmantoo said:


> Another method is to weld a large continuous filet around the exterior of the old race. The welding will create enough heat to expand the inner race but since the filet is continuous the filet does not allow the race to contract as it cool thus creating a clearance and the race can be taken off the shaft. This works very good for removing bearing races where shaft damage cannot be tolerated.


Im going to have to remember to try that


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## michiganfarmer (Oct 15, 2005)

PyroDon said:


> You can also run a bead on the inside of the race its self and the weld will pull the race shrinking it just enough to pull out once cool , same with arching an axle by running a bead down it .
> If your heating the bearing to get it off use water and quick cool it a couple times the steam will penitrate and loosen the bearing , using oil will cause a carbon build up and make it nearly impossible to remove ( a trick taught me by an old welder who forgot more than most of us will ever learn)


there is some more good little tricks


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## Up North (Nov 29, 2005)

All Good Techniques and Tips. Keep 'em comin'.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Excellent thread and great pics. I've cut away a few bearing races like you did, it's a bit easier with oxy propane IMO as it's a little slower. If there's room i heat it first and put the 4 foot pipe wrench on it. Works surprisingly often....... and my wife said the beast would never get used!


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## Jim S. (Apr 22, 2004)

Had good luck heating the tar out of it and then spraying it with WD40 or PB Blaster. As it cools, the lube is drawn in. You run the risk with too much heat of losing axle temper, though. You have to heat the race really quick, so it doesn't heat up the axle too much. But sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Good sharp chisel whacked with a 3-pound sledge does split them nice, as already described. It works real well when the race has spun, which can cause troubles with other methods where it is to be removed whole.


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