# tiller replacement motor



## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

i need to get a replacement motor for my troybuilt pony circa 1982. so i need a horizontal shaft in the neighborhood of 5 hp to match the 5 hp briggs and stratton i am replacing. so i found motors on ebay, but i have a question. the motor i am replacing has a forward and a reverse pully that both turn when the motor runs. a change in drive belt tension make the reverse work. these two pullies appear to be on an assembly mounted to the front of the motor. is this an assembly that will readily mount to any horizontal shaft motor i buy? am i looking at the actual drive shaft that has a gear on the inside of the assembly and turns the reverse pully and gear or does the drive shaft drive a gear assembly inside? 

i assume i need to take my assembly off (whatever it is) and mount it to a new engine. the puzzling part is that the 1 inch thick assembly on my motor has 2 oil fill ports...one at the bottom of each side. so if i remove the assembly, i remove all of the oil as well. well ok...but what is the new motor like? is it a sealed unit with it's own oil fill port? do i still need oil in the assembly? 

does anyone know exactly what i am talking about? lol


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

Sorry just saw it was a troy built 
there will be a coupler 
most of the reverse set ups on tillers are pretty simple the engine block is tapped for the bolts that hole them on .
Maybe you could post a pic of it as it is now .


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

*here you can almost see the crack in the block from when it blew*











*you can see the @ 1 inch thick assembly bolted to the front*










*this is the front view...there is an oil fill on both sides*


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

The one inch thick piece your seeing is the side of the engine block .
you will not have to remove it 
Notice the bolt directly behind the pulley and another below the pulley near the bottom of the block . those are what hold the assembly in place. You will find similar bolts o the other side of the engine. 
First thing your will have to do is remove all the pullies .
this engine appears to have a pto shaft ran off the cam (the pulley with the flat side on the hub) . So when looking for a replacement motor you will need one with an aux pto shaft.
Get out your WD40 and drench the set screws on the two pullies mounted to the engine shafts they will likely be very curroded . Once the set screws are out it will be time for a good quality puller. 
Once you get the two engine pullies off the clutch assebly wont be bad at all


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

so that's what i have...an engine with a pto. thanks...that helps. i need to find an engine with a pto. that or elso do without reverse, lol.


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

this is a pic from an auction on ebay. this must be the plate we are talking about. i assume the shaft must have a gear to drive the pto/reverse.


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

MELOC said:


> so that's what i have...an engine with a pto. thanks...that helps. i need to find an engine with a pto. that or elso do without reverse, lol.


yeap and I did a search on ebay already 
The PTO shaft is in the wrong place on the new 6.5 hp OHV engines


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

bad news...an ebay seller has told me there is no longer a replacement motor for this unit. when he searched, he was told to "replace with parts". i know this can be done, but this block has a 1.5 inch by 1 inch "T" shaped crack in the block. i really don't have time to learn a new trade, lol. JB weld application, aluminum welding and small engine rebuilding is not on my short list at the moment.


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

MELOC said:


> bad news...an ebay seller has told me there is no longer a replacement motor for this unit. when he searched, he was told to "replace with parts". i know this can be done, but this block has a 1.5 inch by 1 inch "T" shaped crack in the block. i really don't have time to learn a new trade, lol. JB weld application, aluminum welding and small engine rebuilding is not on my short list at the moment.


do a search for snow blower motors some of them had the same engine


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

if your really want to start that new hobby I have a 5 hp briggs engine but to would have to change out the side and cam with yours .
major PITA


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

this isnt a briggs but it looks like a good replacement 
http://cgi.ebay.com/5hp-Tecumseh-En...ryZ42230QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

looks good, but is listed for use with a snowblower only and says something about not having an air filter.


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

MELOC said:


> looks good, but is listed for use with a snowblower only and says something about not having an air filter.


main thing you will need to find out is the shaft size on your engine for both power shafts and check those against the specs of this engine.
the mounting bolts should match up fine , Ive replaced a number of briggs with Ts and had good luck .
the basic difference on the snow blower motor is the weight of the oil 
getting an air filter is easy


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

i'm pretty sure mine is a 3/4 shaft and it would probably bolt right up. i am not sure of the shaft length. it would probably be ok, even if i had to make a plate or something to make it work. i just wanted to know if the engine was sold without an air filter or if it was designed that way because it is a snowblower engine. i know that sounds kinda silly, but i don't know, lol, i never had a snowblower.


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## wdchuck (Jun 24, 2007)

I had the same thing happen to my pony last year. I called some servicing dealers, and the farm stores, and came across a referrel to a guy who fixed small engines and other stuff. After talking to him for a bit, I took the tiller up to him, and a week later he had found and installed a Craftsman 5hp engine, used, from some other piece of equipment, and it had the reverse shaft as well, so he transferred the pulleys and made sure everything worked properly, all was well, except for the throttle control cable, didn't match up, not a big deal. The new(used) motor is quieter, easier to start, and better on gas, and uses no oil. It was worth the calling around and the money.

Look around, call around, there's an engine out there for ya.


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