# Restoring an old metal tool chest...where do I start?



## clovis (May 13, 2002)

The "$100 Rustoleum Paint Job" thread has me motivated to restore a steel Snap-On tool box I have.

I picked this up last year for $15. It is a multi-drawer top chest that dates back to the late 50's or mid 60's, I would guess.

The problem is that the box is covered in rust. No, not a little rust, but a ton.

If you can imagine a car hood that was stripped of it's paint, and then left outside in the Indiana weather...you can imagine what this box looks like.

The surface rust is all over, but the steel is still solid. Lots of small pitting.

I'd like to make this box as nice as possible, without spending a fortune on it. I'm pretty good with a rattle can, and was hoping to shoot it with several coats between sandings, like they show in some of the YouTube videos.

I am hoping that this will help me learn some very basic auto body work, which I have never done before.

Where do I start?

Can I start hand sanding the box? 

What grit of sandpaper should I start with? 

Will the primer coat fill in the tiny rust pitting that covers most of the tool box?


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## DaleK (Sep 23, 2004)

Www.garagejournal.com they have several threads on it


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

A wire wheel on a drill will go a long way. Be sure and wear eye protection. Take it down to bare metal. Spray on a coat of primer. Sand lightly. Another coat of primer and an even lighter sanding. Then pick your final color and have at it.


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Thank you, logbuilder!!!!

If I don't have a wire wheel, can I use a belt sander? 

I've got tons of sanding belts. Will that work too?

Thanks so much!!!!!


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

clovis said:


> Thank you, logbuilder!!!!
> 
> If I don't have a wire wheel, can I use a belt sander?
> 
> ...


The belt sander will work on the flat surfaces but you can't get it into nooks and crannies. Be sure and use belts made for metal, not wood.

Just so we understand each other, the wire wheel I spoke of sells for less than $6 on amazon. Looks like this.


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Thank you, Log.

I'm in the flea market business, and have probably had 100 of the wire wheels, but I think that I've sold everyone of them. Of course, when I don't need one, I'm tripping over them, and find two of them in every tool box I buy, LOL.

I'll pick one up soon. 

Do you think that one would be enough? I'd say that I have the same surface area on the box as a large car fender.

Again, thank you for helping me!!! I appreciate it!!!!!


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

clovis said:


> Thank you, Log.
> 
> I'm in the flea market business, and have probably had 100 of the wire wheels, but I think that I've sold everyone of them. Of course, when I don't need one, I'm tripping over them, and find two of them in every tool box I buy, LOL.
> 
> ...


One might do it. To extend the life of it, don't press on it too hard. Take it slow. A palm sander might also be helpful if you have one of those. I'd start with 80 grit and go progressively higher till you get the finish you want for priming. I'd think 200 would be pretty good for painting. Remember, it will want to rust fast. Primers are not all created equal. There are different types. You want 'Iron Oxide Metal Primer'.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

I just went and reread the OP. You said you thought it was pitted pretty badly. Once you get to bare metal, if the pits bother you, it might be time to consider some body filler. Then start your sanding as normal. The primer will fill some but maybe not enough depending on where you end up.

I'd really like to see a pic when it is finished. Hopefully all the drawers work as intended. Does it have a Snap-On badge? If so, I'd remove that and clean it up as best I could. I've got this pic in my head of it looking really cool and over 40 years old. But, my tractor is over 70 years old so that probably shows my love for old stuff.


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## travisn (Dec 3, 2013)

you could start by posting pictures!


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## Allen W (Aug 2, 2008)

DaleK said:


> Www.garagejournal.com they have several threads on it


Thanks, neat site


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Okay, I have more dumb questions:

Once I get the rust removed, what type of primer do I use? I am planning on using Rustoleum in a rattle can, or something comparable. I want to use as good of paint as I can. If I am going to do this project, I want to do it right, and for it to last as long as possible.

Can I sand one side at a time, and then shoot it with primer as I go? 

Will the primer seal the surface from moisture completely?


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Oh, and talking about paint:

Since I am shooting this with a rattle can, should I consider spraying a top coat of clear too? 

Will it work?

Can you all tell that this is all new to me?


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## travisn (Dec 3, 2013)

if want it nice you are probably going to have to pay someone to do it, either automotive base/clear or powder coat.

if you are just going to rattle can it then use a nice filler primer for the pock marks (http://www.zorotools.com/g/00094920/k-G3558651?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CLTIlO7w77sCFU_NOgodyTgAKA)

you can brush it on so it's nice and thick, then you can get the same primer in a spray can for other areas, or spray the whole thing a lot. let it dry for a day or two, sand with 180 then 220, then 400. in order to tell if you've sanded enough to move onto the next grit lightly spray black paint all over. once the black is gone you can probably move on. it's called a guide coat. 

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smlr7REGqU0[/ame] (disclaimer, I did not watch this video)

then you can move onto color paint, just get a good 'single stage', which doesn't require a clear coat. Clear is a mess/pain if you don't know what you are doing and you can get just as good results for your application.


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Thanks, Travis.

I toyed with having this one professionally painted, especially if I could find someone who would shoot it after they painted a car in red. Since they might have some red left in their gun, and the gun is dirty already, and I could wait for months with no rush on my part, I considered it.

Then again, this box has seen better days. If I went all out on it, including a new lock and key, pro paint, etc., I could probably buy a nice one for about the same money.

If this box had been really nice to begin with, and I wanted to dump money into it and keep as a show piece, I might have had it pro painted. But the box is what it is, and I don't mind spending some elbow grease on it. 

At the same time, I am trying to pinch some pennies along the way, and I don't want to drop a ton of money on the box. It just isn't worth it to me. 

I've been impressed with the better spray paints on the market these days. I shot an industrial quality shelf over the summer with Rustoleum rattle cans, and was really impressed with the results, and I wasn't even trying that hard. The rattle cans laid down a beautiful finish...it really did! 

I figure that if I try hard on this one...it might turn out pretty nice.

Again, *thank you* for the replies!!!!


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

I've done plenty of projects with rattle cans. I like to make my last coat as thick as I can without runs or sags. Takes practice.


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## travisn (Dec 3, 2013)

Also, to that point, the colder it is the more likely your paint will run, sag, or both. 70+


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

travisn said:


> Also, to that point, the colder it is the more likely your paint will run, sag, or both. 70+


That is why I was wondering if the primer is a sealant in one of my earlier posts.

I'd like to get it prepped and primed, and then shoot it when we get a nice day in the early spring.

I've had plenty of rattle can experience, but these new higher quality paints and the cans they are in are much better today than they've ever been, IMO. They seem to lay flatter paint, and in more even coats than in years prior.

A neighbor used some of the $8 per can stuff to shoot some handrails. I kid you not, those rails looked like they had been powder coated. And I don't mean to brag, but the shelving unit I sprayed last summer was simply stunning, and I wasn't even trying that hard.


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## travisn (Dec 3, 2013)

eh, probably not. i've seen plenty of cars rust from sitting out in primer. if it's in your garage then it will probably be fine. most primers want a base coat within 24-48 hour or the 'pores' seal up and you might have adhesive problems. 

So you can do your fill primer work now, sand it all nice. hit with a light coat of primer to 'seal' it then once it's warm hit it with a red scuff pad and do a coat of primer and sand that with grey scuff pad before paint


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

You want 'Iron Oxide Metal Primer'. It bonds to the metal. Different metals, different primers. Keep it inside and dry and it will be fine.


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## Roadking (Oct 8, 2009)

C'mon Clovis, we need before, during and after pictures.
Just follow the above mentioned advice and you should wind up with a decent end result.

Matt

PS...I just did a red job...if only you were close, it'd be a done deal.


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Thank you so much for the replies!!!!!

I need to start working the dents out of it. There is a harsh dent in the lid, right where the front curves and rolls into the top of the lid. The lid is also torqued a bit out of square, and the two front latches aren't lining up perfectly with the bottom two latches, if that makes any sense. 

I am just as clueless about dent removal, but I should be able to find something on YouTube. I am amazed by what some people can do with a block of wood and a body hammer! I have a friend who tapped out a hard, deep crease on a quarter panel of an old car I own. I was stunned...but then again, the guy is very talented.

Again, thank you!!!!


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## travisn (Dec 3, 2013)

pictures would help!!!!


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Roadking said:


> C'mon Clovis, we need before, during and after pictures.
> Just follow the above mentioned advice and you should wind up with a decent end result.
> 
> Matt
> ...


What would you have charged for a wipe down with a tack cloth, and shoot? 

Nine drawers (I think), front locking cover and box, all in primer, ready to hang and paint.


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

travisn said:


> pictures would help!!!!


I will try to post pictures sometime in the future.

The box is currently in storage. 

I had planned on starting on it this weekend, but life has gotten in the way. The cold weather earlier this week really cost me some time.

Again, this is a beater box. The smart guy would take it to a flea market and sell it for $50, and spend his time doing something more productive.

But then again, I'm a sucker for old tools and boxes, and would like to learn some very basic body work and sheet metal restoration skills.


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## Roadking (Oct 8, 2009)

clovis said:


> What would you have charged for a wipe down with a tack cloth, and shoot?
> 
> Nine drawers (I think), front locking cover and box, all in primer, ready to hang and paint.


Just a wipe and spray, assuming I have the paint on hand, maybe a roast beef sandwich on rye. If I have to tape it off, I'd expect chips and a pickle.
It's the prep work that eats up the most time and budget for folks...plus, your from HT. If it's prepped to your satisfaction, the spritz is kind of pleasant.

Matt


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Well, it is May, and I just got started on the Snap-On box.

I happened to pick up a nice palm sander at an estate sale a few weeks ago for $10. Since I was moving the sander to my shop, I thought I would see what 100 grit would do to my r-u-s-t-y Snap-On box.

Well, I was so impressed for the minute that I sanded that I kept on sanding for the next two hours. That box is looking good!!! I am impressed with the palm sander and the job it is doing. This is nice quality steel, and _so far_ the deep pitting that I thought the box had was old crinkly paint that was stained with rust. I'm not sure that makes sense, but I am thrilled that the steel is okay.

My biggest problem is going to be figuring out how to straighten such thick steel. It looks like the box tumbled forward at some point, and hit the ground. It is dented where both hook latches are mounted on the front, and the lid does not want to close properly.

And also, the front top plate seems to be bent down just enough to keep one of the drawers from opening, and making the other two hard to pull out. 

Finally, the bottom edges of the box are so wavy that you could surf down them. I'm really, really not sure of how to fix this, since it is double walled steel. If it were soft steel, I'd use a C-clamp and straighten it, but that is some thick steel.

Thoughts and suggestions, please and thank you!


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

After doing some research, that Snap-On box is much older than I thought!!!

It appears to be a K55R model, and I found the exact chest in a 1941 Snap-On catalog.

http://www.collectingsnapon.com/catalogs/catalogs.php?loggedin=0&catalogPage=759

I think, technically speaking, that my model is actually a K55W, which is the same box, but (was) painted in wrinkle gray. On second thought, maybe mine is an R model, which means it is covered in RUST.


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## ct01r (Jan 21, 2014)

Glad to hear that you have time to start your project! Here are some things to consider:

After you're done sanding, you have to get ALL the dust off. If you can, vacuum it well, then use a compressor to blow it. Finally, use a tack cloth to get all the fines off. 

Use latex (or equivilent) gloves to keep you skin oil off the bare metal. and prime it as soon as you can.

Some boxes have a "pebble" finish, it may not be pitting that you have to fill in. In any event, a lot of us like the character of a used box. I usually don't make things look like new when I refinish them.

Consider getting the finest grit you can to use between coats (600 grit isn't too fine).

Good luck! Curt


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

I worked on the box again tonight. 

I found the first bit of pitting. It is on the bottom of removable tray, and it is minor pitting.

I will have my work cut out for me working on the inside of the tray. I can't fit my palm sander down into the tray, so I'll either have to hand sand it or find another tool. A Dremel might work, but sanding discs would cost a fortune, I would guess. 

The front cover plate is in horrid condition. This is the part that mounts to the front of the box to enable you to lock the box, and to keep anyone from pulling on a drawer. Every last edge of that cover is bent, which should be an easy fix. The front is badly dented though, and because it has another piece of sheet metal welded to the back of the cover, I don't see how I can pound, dolly or straighten the front.

The dents and bent metal are going to be my biggest challenge. Some of this would be pretty easy if I had the right tools, but some of it is beyond my skill set at the moment.


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## Roadking (Oct 8, 2009)

Slide hammer for pulling the dents would be my first choice.

Matt


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## seagullplayer (Nov 6, 2008)

As they are fond of saying: pictures or it didn't happen...


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

I have some before pictures, but don't know how to post them.


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

I'm still working away, little by little, on the old box.

Rust removal is going pretty quick with 100 grit sandpaper on a palm sander.

New problems:

The process of rust removal is showing more about this box than I wanted to know. The rust was covering up quite a few dings and dents, far more than was expected. 

I am afraid that the outside shell is racked a little bit. 

I still need to figure out how to get the drawers out. They are pretty easy to remove on the Kennedy and Craftsman boxes I have, but I am scratching my head a little with these.

I've figured out that I need to buy or create another body dolly. I used the 'all purpose' dolly that I have, and I need a straight edged dolly of some sort to fit into some of the areas, especially on the front cover. I need a 1 1/2" square block. That would work the best for the outer edges of the sheet metal cover. FWIW, some of the dings, dents and bends are already looking better after I tapped some of them out.

Also, I think this box was carried back and forth from a shop to the field. This box, even when empty, is a hoss. I believe that many of the dents, especially those on the bottom, were the result of someone struggling with this box, and then dropping it when they got close to wherever they were going.

The smart guy would have sold this box, and bought a better one. I am not that smart. Just ask my wife.


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## Bottleneck (Apr 22, 2014)

so hows it coming? i'm interested in pics as well...

also, I used some stuff called chassis saver (very similar to por-15, but cheaper) on my bronco's frame and radiator support, and really like the stuff as a base coat. it'll outlast the steel and it helps to fill in where the rust eats away.

oh, and cheap siphon sandblaster work great. messy, but great...


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Thank you for asking!

The box is coming along nicely, albeit slow. Honestly, it has been too hot outside recently to work on it, and when it gets cool enough, I am working on other projects. In other words, I haven't touched it in a few weeks.

The outside shell is looking good. I still have a ton of sanding to do on it.

Removing the drawers is still a challenge. They are next on my agenda.

I found a body hammer hiding in with my other hammers. I've watched about 74 YouTube videos on hammering dents out of metal...those guys make it look so easy!

As for posting pics: I wish that I knew how. I'm on other forums, and posting pics on most of them is easy, but with this forum...I am perplexed, and too lazy/exhausted/busy to try to learn how, LOL.


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## Bottleneck (Apr 22, 2014)

I hear you on the projects, and on trying to learn how to hammer metal, I can diagnose a cars CAN bus with my eyes closed, but have yet to be able to hammer on a dent and not just make it worse...

I just a photobucket account, its pretty straightforward to get them on the site from either your computer or a smartphone via thier app. then when you look at the picture on photobucket it has the links to copy and paste off to the right.


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