# Restoring, why not, all it takes is effort



## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

I don't post here too much so I hope I'm not sticking my nose in where it's not wanted. However I read the thread where the OP said a Singer treadle cabinet wasn't in good enough shape to restore. I snorted and laughed as that cabinet is in really decent shape for it's age and what it is.

Here is a thread about what I did with a Singer 9W-7 treadle and cabinet that was given to me by my SIL.
The machine cabinet had been used as an aquarium stand and the top was all but ruined. 
Luckily the machine wasn't damaged, just crudded up from age and a lack of cleaning.

Rather than rebuild the thread, here's a link to the thread with pictures I did over at the Quilting Board forum: 
{ http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintag...look-what-im-getting-free-update-t204377.html }
What the pics don't show is just how bad the top was and what I had to do to to fix it. Perhaps this cabinet wasn't "worth" fixing in ND, but here they are just not easy to come by. 
I've got two machines sitting idle because they have no cabinets. I'd have the one mentioned in the other thread fixed up and running in a day or two. To my way of thinking it was/is very worth fixing up.

J Miller (Katskitten's DH)


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

You cant tell from the picture but all the veneer is lifing and the plywood is delaminating. At hat point it cost less to buy one in better shape t I am to deal with it. Time is money also


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## RedDirt Cowgirl (Sep 21, 2010)

Seen too many bare iron treddle stands - no cabinet OR machine.

I think it's sad when old things like this are dismantled to suit one's convenience.


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

Are you still in need of a rear guard?


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

Cost is not the only criteria. Availability is a big one. Here in IL treadles may be common, but not just the cabinets. Buying one just because another is in less than perfect condition is a waste of money.

The one I did the thread about was delaminating all over the place. I used old plastic credit cards and a hack saw blade to work wood glue down into the separated areas then clamped them tight to dry. 

Id took me several months but the treadle machine and it's cabinet are now complete and functional. And I did not sacrifice another machines home to do it.

This is part of what's wrong with our society. Rather than take care of what we have and keep it repaired, we've gotten to the point we just throw it away and get another one. That is so very wrong in so many ways I can't even elaborate on it.

I'd love to get my hands on a couple complete treadles, less machines. Then my other treadle heads would have a home. But there are none like that to be had around here. Just the opposite actually. Lots of treadle machines with no treadles. 

Joe


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

Macybaby said:


> Are you still in need of a rear guard?


Yes I am. I've looked all over and so far haven't found one.

Joe


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

I'll double check when I get home, but I'm pretty sure I've got an extra one. I know I don't have a front one, and I've seen a lot of treadles that are missing it. I think a lot of people don't even know something is suppose to go there if it's gone.

I ended up buying a front guide off ebay for the cabinet I fixed up. Also had to buy a dust cover, and it took a while to find one like my table as most have the front drawer built in. 

I think treadles may be easier to find in my area because we didn't get electricity until the 40's and 50's in many rural areas of South Dakota. My house is old, but never had knob and tube wiring as by the time they got the lines run, that was a thing of the past.


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

I bought a Singer 66 treadle from Good Will that had been motorized. All the treadle parts were gone. I had fits getting the needed parts. Some came from the states and some of the other parts I couldn't find came from Australia.
But I got the machine unconverted back to treadle action.
Sews very good.

The one I need the rear belt guide for was thankfully never molested other than being used as an aquarium stand.

If you have a spare rear belt guide I'd love to get it from you.

We've lived in one pre-1900s house and it had many generations of wiring. So many so that if we had bought it I would have wanted the whole thing rewired.



Joe


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

BTW - it does not just take a lot of effort - it takes a lot of TALENT to get it to turn out decent. I've seen so many "I thought I could do this" projects that someone put a lot of effort it, but had no real talent and ended up with something they were disappointed in. 

Do not discount talent - it is easy to do, and I find myself often telling others "it's real easy" but that is not true. You do need the touch, and many, many people don't have it. 

And sometimes it takes a lot of tools too - which is no big deal with you've got a shop full of them. 

BTW- still have not gotten out to the shop to look for that part. Break time is over so I've got to get back to work (since I have a full time outside job, it cuts into my "sewing play" time).


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## primal1 (Aug 22, 2003)

I like restoration so i'm sticking my nose in. I have attempted to restore some veneer and come to the conclusion that if it is too far gone it may only be worth looking at what the wood under it is. Sometimes they used some nice wood under the veneer.. no idea what Singer might have used, but might be worth stripping it of the veneer and giving it a whole new look. Just a thought


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

Macybaby,

I don't know if I have talent or if I was determined to save the cabinet. I have very few tools, just hand tools a jig saw and a sanding block, well some clamps too.

I asked a lot of questions from members of the QB forum that do this often. Then just gave it a try. I had nothing to loose and everything to gain.

As for the part, when ever you get to it, I'm not in a hurry.

primal1,

Veneer is a pain in the butt for sure. On the treadle I started this thread on, my goal was to return it to as close as it would have been had it not been abused as I could, without making it look new.

I saved the ends of the top by carefully gluing the veneer back together on the base wood, then sanding, staining, shellacking and waxing it. 
I did the same with the machine support pieces and then for the top I chose to replace the veneer. That was actually a mistake. Most of the old veneer was there. I should have glued it all back together with a patch or two and done the same thing I did with the other parts. It would have turned out better. In my opinion anyway.

Singer used quarter sawed oak veneer over what I believe to be oak as the base wood. I'm not a wood worker so I'm actually guessing on the base wood.

Joe


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

The other thing with singer, is the veneer is two layers. Sometimes only the top is coming loose, sometimes both layers. What I've seen is that if you get both layers off, the underneath is a bunch of pieced boards glued together with a perimeter of hardwood as that shows. I've got one out in the shop that has completely come apart that I can show you.

A lot of time only the top layer of veneer is coming loose, and the second layer (backing) is pretty nice wood by today's standards (where sometimes they use paper and not even wood for backing).

Singer used Quarter sawn (sometimes called Tiger) on the older cabinets. Most of the newer ones I've gotten are regular sawn oak or maple. Those are also particle board cores, not solid wood on many of the case pieces - the tops are still all wood. 

I need to figure out how to remove veneer. I've got the busted dust cover that the back has nice veneer on it, and could be used to patch other places, but I'm not sure how to get it off first - when it's still firmly attached. It's also curved so it makes it harder to apply heat with something like an iron. Don't know if steam would work or wreck things.


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

Pictures - this is the top cover off one of the treadles. The rest of the cabinet is not in this bad of shape, but getting there. The end piece is sitting near the top of the picture - with the hinges still attached.

The top veneer is completely gone, so it shows the pieced hardwood that makes up the core. You can see the two layers that make up the veneer that is still on the underside of the cover. Most often it is the top layer that is separating from the backing, not usually the entire veneer coming off. 










This shows the very thin outer layer of quality lumber, then a thicker wood backing, and then the inside pieced frame - note the outer band of hardwood that is routered. Also note that the veneer top layer is made up a many narrow strips. Nowdays veneer is usually made by peeling long layers off a log as it turns, but you would not get quarter sawn oak that way. So you can get a lot more lifting edges with this product.


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## primal1 (Aug 22, 2003)

@Katskitten, koodo's for persevering! I have a veneer chest of drawers with 2 large diamonds spanning the 4 large drawers but the top is bubbling everywhere, still undecided as to how to proceed but fortunately the clutter on top hides it HAHA.

@Macybaby, shame it's so many small pieces, although it is still a hard wood. Looks like you have to reglue, i'm thinking inlay if you want to jazz it up without reveneering hehe, then you could use what ever veneer is left over to patch the rest.. looks like a heck of a project for sure!


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## primal1 (Aug 22, 2003)

BTW Katskitten, it looks like you did an amazing job restoring!!


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

Macybaby,

I took the top of the treadle in the top pics down to the base wood. It was exactly what you showed in your pics. The veneer that came off of it was in two layers, both separated.
I could have easlily glued each layer back on. Should have.
But I used the "modern" veneer with the paper backing again as you described and it looks OK but not as good as I wanted.

Since I'm doing these for myself, I learn as I go. I have a bunch of thin pieces of veneer that has come off of other things to use as patches. So I do fairly decent at making boo boos go away or at least not be obvious.

I redid the bottom of a Franklin parlor cabinet that had suffered water damage. It's veneer was was beyond saving and I had to glue the base wood back together. It also looked exactly like the on in your pics. The wood shop I got my veneer from ran the bottom through their huge sander and made it smooth for me. Otherwise I'd still be sanding on it.

.....................................

primal1,

Thanks for the compliments. I do enjoy it when I can resurrect old machines and their cabinets / cases.

Joe


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## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

Macybaby said:


> I need to figure out how to remove veneer.


I am working on a cabinet right now. I found that my Wagner heat gun on the lowest setting held about 8 inches away does well to reactivate the old hide glue and make it tacky enough that a spackling knife can be inserted between the layers and gently lever them apart. Steam will make the veneer ripply and that is hard to deal with.


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## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

Katskitten said:


> Cost is not the only criteria. Availability is a big one. Here in IL treadles may be common, but not just the cabinets. Buying one just because another is in less than perfect condition is a waste of money.
> 
> The one I did the thread about was delaminating all over the place. I used old plastic credit cards and a hack saw blade to work wood glue down into the separated areas then clamped them tight to dry.
> 
> ...


You did an awesome restore! 

Around here (Mississippi) the problem is a new fashion for making tables out of them using the treadle bases for the table legs. Makes me sick every time I see one in a shop cause I know that somewhere a wonderful cabinet is wasted and a sewing head is homeless.

Here is what I am working on. The cabinet was alone wonder of wonders, and I traded four old wooden window sashes from our farmhouse remodel for it. The veneer, what was left of it, was shot, no going back, so I peeled it all off and have sanded and stained what was under it. Looks weird in the photo cause some spots are drier than others. When it all dries, I am putting poly on it cause this is for my main sewing head to go in that I sew on everyday and it needs the protection (I am a prof. seamstress). I got a break in that the lid and machine supports are actually oak, the table top is oak laminate so it took the stain the same.

The machine going in it is a 66-1 (backclamping presser feet). It has Red Eye decals in pristine condition. The treadle base I have is also good so now it will all be Singer even though the finish on the cabinet is no longer the original veneer. I found a new dust cover (belly) for it on ebay, what you see under there is all that was left of it. Just realized my next project needs to be the kitchen table top, seriously needs refinishing, look at those scratches LOL.


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

Maggie,

Your top without the veneer looks better than mine did. There were gaps in the pieces where it originally wasn't fitted right. 
What you have done looks good and the color match is very good.

My wife and I made a new belly pan for the treadle I'm working on now. Used 3/16" plywood and steamed it until it actually curved to match the side pieces. Burned out my wife's steam iron doing it. Ooopsie.

I have three 66 red eyes, two in treadles, one that needs a treadle plus 5 other motorized 66s. I guess you could say I'm partial to them.

Joe


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## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

Katskitten said:


> Maggie,
> 
> Your top without the veneer looks better than mine did. There were gaps in the pieces where it originally wasn't fitted right.
> What you have done looks good and the color match is very good.
> ...


Yeah, I got lucky about what was under the veneer. But considering what I paid (or didn't for it) I didn't have a lot to lose. Still had to do some gluing and clamping though. 

I have two 66s an electric 66-16 with the Filigree decal set and a treadle 66-1 with the Red Eye. Love, love, love a 66 Singer. Best machines I ever sewed with.

My "new" belly came today, got her mounted. The center drawer is in pieces with various clamps on the table drying. The lamination was in need of repair. Took a chance and washed the drawer where the green felt is, it was NASTY. Wow what a difference. Looks new! Another break. Used Dawn dish soap and a scrub brush.


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

Maggie,

I have another treadle, that came with a Singer 9W-7 machine. The previous owner transported it heavy side up in the back of a moving truck, with the head in it, unpadded and unsupported. He hit a bump and the machine head came crashing down through the belly pan shattering that, and pulling the hinges out of the top part. The treadle plate broke the pivot parts off of the iron frame at the same time.
The machine didn't get hurt and sews beautifully.

For the last year I have been literally reconstructing this treadle a bit at a time as I can. I have the belly pan fixed, and most of the center drawer redone. I had to fabricate parts to do them. All I need to do now is finish the drawer then get to the top parts. After that a refinish job and I should be finished.

My biggest problem is a lack of working space. I need a work shop. 

Joe


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## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

RebelDigger said:


> You did an awesome restore!
> 
> Around here (Mississippi) the problem is a new fashion for making tables out of them using the treadle bases for the table legs. Makes me sick every time I see one in a shop cause I know that somewhere a wonderful cabinet is wasted and a sewing head is homeless.
> 
> ...



Update:

Got her done!


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

Oooooo purty 

Joe


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## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

Thanks Joe. What's hilarious is that I have yet to get the poly on the window facings but the machine cabinet has 6 coats. Guess you can tell what my priorities are LOL. We moved in in Sept. and are still working on our punch list for the house.


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## MamaTiger (Jun 11, 2008)

Where I live finding a treadle machine itself is absolutely near impossible! I've wanted one for years and haven't found one yet. Your restoration project looks fantastic!


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

MamaTiger,
What part of the world do you live in?
..............................................

I've got broken parts from two treadle iron frames that I combined to make one functional frame. I'm considering having the broken parts brazed back together. That way I'd have two functional treadles instead of one with bits and pieces left over. 
Welding or brazing cast iron is expensive in this part of the world. That gives you an idea of how semi-desperate I am.

Joe


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

My problem is most of the machines I want come in treadle cabinets and I dont want any more of them. For 100 to 200 I can find many in assoeted manufactures. Cant hardly find machines in the next age group - early electric models.


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

My favorite antique machine is a 1909 ish Minnesota Mdl B.
She started out life as a treadle machine and was converted some time later to an e-machine.










Who ever did it, used a motor kit that attaches to the cabinet not the machine, so the machine isn't defaced with holes. However the machine now lives in a home made wooden base. How long she's been in that base is any ones guess.










One of these days I'd so love to find a Minnesota Mdl B treadle cabinet and return Minerva to her original state.
Alas, I have never seen a Minnesota Mdl B treadle.

Joe


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## MamaTiger (Jun 11, 2008)

I'm in the deep south...what I wouldn't give for a treadle!


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

MamaTiger said:


> I'm in the deep south...what I wouldn't give for a treadle!


Wish I could help, but I'm in IL.
I do watch GoodWill on line auctions 
{ http://shopgoodwill.com/ } 
and see them quite often. You might keep your eyes out, one might come up in your area.

Joe


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