# Fence: how high does it need to be?



## Spinner (Jul 19, 2003)

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...10551_10001_36224_-1______?rFlag=true&cFlag=1

This fencing was highly recommended to me by a local guy who raises Boers. He said 48" in plenty high enough to keep them from getting out. 

I have Saanens and ND's. I'm sure the 48" would be fine for the little ones, but the big goats might go right over it like it wasn't there. I was thinking more along the lines of 6' fence. 

Another thing that worries me is the 6' high fence has 6" openings, but the 48" high has 4" openings. I know the smaller openings would be much safer. I don't want anyone to get their head stuck in an 6" opening. 

Before I spend the money on new fence, I want to be sure I get something that will keep them in and be safe for them. 

I'd like to hear what some of you think.


----------



## DQ (Aug 4, 2006)

most people use 48" field fence. there are occasional goats that will attempt to go over that. generaly the smaller the area the better the fence has to be. also the more content the goats are, ie plenty of food and company, the less likely they are to try to get out. so if you are dry lotting the fence needs to be better. for example, a small pen to isolate a single goat needs to be much higher and more secure than 5 acres fenced for 5 goats. I have one, that if left alone, will climb almost anything to get back to her buddies although she can't manage the 5' chain link. however she has no desire to escape from the main area with the rest of the goats. I use chain link scrounged for from various places for my smallish holding and buck pen. and field fence and or cattle panels everywhere else. if I could afford stock panels I wouldn't use field fence they don't break down as easily and are great for temporary and portable pens. good luck!


----------



## moopups (May 12, 2002)

First of all the Red Top brand is premium fencing, less popular brands are about $100.00 cheaper for 330 foot rolls.

Secondly, the 4 Boer goats here have no ability to escape 48 inch fence, the billy stands about 16 to 20 inches above the wire and gate. It is suggested you check out fence known as 'no climb', its 2 inch by 4 inch (vertical), there will be a lot less caught horns in the future. As compared with 4 inch by 4 inch.

If you must cut wire to free a caught goat carry a roll of masonry tie wire and replace the cut area immediately. A 9 inch diameter goat can go through a 4 inch by 8 inch space as if it was not there.


----------



## Spinner (Jul 19, 2003)

Thanks DQ and Moopups. I've seen some 5 or 6 foot welded wire fence wire at TS that has 2"x4" openings. I don't remember the price on it, but that was what I had in mind to get before the Boer man recommended I use the sheep & goat 48" stuff. Someone else is paying for the fence, I just have to install it... so I want to be sure to get the proper fence. It would be very sad to get something installed, then discover that I should have used something different. 

I've heard that goats will rip apart the welded wire. That's why I started looking for something else. I've considered cattle panels, but I don't like the idea of having 6"x6" openings. I've also considered electric fence, but not sure if that would be a good idea either.


----------



## chris30523 (Jun 11, 2005)

We use goat panels on the buck pen.They are the same as cattle panels but with smaller openings. We got them at TSC. I just put up electric fence to get my goats out of the field fence. They have rubbed along it so much it is bent out of shape. It was tight. 150 ib boer goats are hard on fence.They don't jump though so the 48" works for that.


----------



## Alice In TX/MO (May 10, 2002)

My Nubian can fly over a four foot fence with little effort. :help:


----------



## toomb68 (Mar 16, 2006)

that is the fencing i use. my lamanchas have never gone over it.


----------



## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

I'd use the 4 ft fencing and add some wires above it.
If the goats SEE the wires they will be less likely to try and jump it. They would probably get stuck in the 6 X 6 openings.


----------



## Freeholder (Jun 19, 2004)

Unless your goats have horns, they won't get their heads stuck in the openings in the cattle panels (although if you can get goat panels they would probably be even better -- suppliers here never heard of such a thing). However, young kids can go through cattle panels just fine -- your Nigerian Dwarfs will probably be able to go through until they are half grown!

If you do use one of the sixteen-foot panels, put a fence post at the center of each panel, as well as at the ends. The goats stand up on their fencing and will bow the panels out. 

Kathleen


----------



## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

No matter what the height I would run at least one hot wire around the inside to keep them from even trying to get out and to keep them climbing on it and stretching it.

I once watched a pregnant ewe clear a 4' wooden panel like nothing on the day before she lambed.

If you think there might be predator problems I would also run a hot wire around the outside about 12" off the ground and 18" out to keep big predators from digging under.


----------



## YuccaFlatsRanch (May 3, 2004)

My Lowes locally has Sheffield Fence on closeout - they are changing to Red Top. The 330 ft rolls of 1047-6-12 1/2 are $101.97. Thats down from $127.00. Go on Ebay and purchase a Lowes 10% coupon and get the fence for about 90.00 a roll. The difference between Sheffield and Red Top when talking about lightweight animals such as goats and Sheep is negligible - name and reputation mostly. For Cattle I might spring for the Red top brand. A hot wire at about 4 - 6 inches above the fence will discourage even fence jumpers - the effect of a good shock is psychological - they stay away from the fence altogether. Add another wire at 6 feet and they will stay in.


----------



## CritterLover (Aug 31, 2006)

My Boers share a pasture with my gelding so I used exactly the wire you sent the link for and added a strand of smooth wire to the top, making the fence 52" tall. The only problem I've had is the goats strectching the wire by rubbing along it. The electric strand is coming...

Yes, the fence was very expensive, but its kept everyone in and everything but the chickens and the cat out.


----------



## hoofinitnorth (Oct 18, 2006)

The answer to your question is simply, "taller than you think!" lol Sorry to sound like a smart alec! NDs are known to be JUMPERS, though! I have a FF this year who stands around 18" at the withers and she jumped TWO 5' SHEER walls without assistance!

Aside from height to keep your goats in, you want to think about what you want to keep OUT. You can also have fewer problems with animals and fencing if 1) it's visible from a distance, 2) the enclosed area is sufficient in size for the animals contained within, 3) it's appropriately designed, maintained, installed, for the animals contained within, 4) the enclosed area is sufficient in shelter, water, food (more piles than there are animals!) for the animals contained within, 5) the animals contained within the fence get along and have room to escape one another, and 6) the animals contained within the fence have some form of entertainment (browsing, playing, obstacles, toys, etc.). Also, animals that feel threatened either by predators outside their enclosure, other animals housed nearby, people, domestic predators (like loose dogs), people (especially children teasing or frightening them), or even animals co-habitating with them often look for escape. If you can minimize these factors and install your fence as recommended by the manufacturer (or preferably by those that have used the fence with goats!), you'll have a greater chance for success.


----------



## Scrounger (Jan 6, 2007)

Most of my stuff is two rolls of 24" - one on top of the other. The rest is 42" with 2 strands of barb over it. Comes out to close to 48". I get my field fence for free from area farmers who are removing it. The stuff I use is still quite good and has been working for years. Now if I could get T posts for free.....


----------



## BethW (May 3, 2007)

We used livestock panels to line our existing 3 board fence. Overall height is 4.5 feet with no escapees yet. Our NDs seem content to stay in their yard although I try not to hang over the top of the fence or do anything to put ideas in their heads  

I can tell you from experience that the 4" openings in the panels can definitely cause problems with stuck heads. One of our disbudded NDs has gotten himself stuck several times. We ended up lining our panels with 2"x4" welded wire...so our wood fence is lined with panels which is lined with welded wire. Boy, we learned a lesson :hobbyhors


----------



## Spinner (Jul 19, 2003)

I ended up getting the red top goat wire. I've decided to put a line of electric wire at the top to discourage any jumpers or climbers. Now I have to get out there and get it installed. Not looking forward to that at all. My kids are going to help me on Saturday. It'll be a looooong day.


----------



## Alice In TX/MO (May 10, 2002)




----------



## DixyDoodle (Nov 15, 2005)

I bought 5 foot "official" goat fencing. It has (I think) 2 1/2" by 3 1/2" squares? Something like that. No problems with goats getting their horns or legs caught.

I think you should also keep in mind how much snow you might get in winter. That may shorten the fence height by a foot or more. This is why I bought 5' instead of 4' and was glad I did. We had a humdinger of a snowstorm and I watched as the goats got closer and closer to the top of the fence. On their hind legs, their nose could almost reach the top---and these are mostly mini goats! My nubian doesn't bother with the fence at all though.


----------



## hoofinitnorth (Oct 18, 2006)

Like another poster here, I used an existing fence (panels) and added field fence to it. Mine are 6' heavy duty horse panels from my round pen kit that I'm not currently using. I wrapped each panel with two layers of 48" field fence and then did it again at the higher point to keep them from climbing and sneaking out the top. This makes the two layers of field fence overlap in the center. They do try to stick their heads through it often so you have to keep scurs trimmed and teach them NOT to do this so a passing predator doesn't come along and grab their head while they are stuck in the fence. My goats never get stuck but I am paranoid about that sort of thing so the suggestion of a hot wire is a good one for people using this system. Keeping food and climbing obstacles in there with them also helps tremendously. BUT I have a VERY small area I'm using as controlled, rotational turn-out and it is attached to their stalls and it's not practical as a large, fenced area unless you are made of money.


----------



## country_wife (Sep 24, 2004)

hoofinitnorth said:


> Like another poster here, I used an existing fence (panels) and added field fence to it. Mine are 6' heavy duty horse panels from my round pen kit that I'm not currently using. I wrapped each panel with two layers of 48" field fence and then did it again at the higher point to keep them from climbing and sneaking out the top. This makes the two layers of field fence overlap in the center. They do try to stick their heads through it often so you have to keep scurs trimmed and teach them NOT to do this so a passing predator doesn't come along and grab their head while they are stuck in the fence. My goats never get stuck but I am paranoid about that sort of thing so the suggestion of a hot wire is a good one for people using this system. Keeping food and climbing obstacles in there with them also helps tremendously. BUT I have a VERY small area I'm using as controlled, rotational turn-out and it is attached to their stalls and it's not practical as a large, fenced area unless you are made of money.


Do you have a pic?


----------



## hoofinitnorth (Oct 18, 2006)

If you go look at the spotlight on buck thread (started a couple ago) you can see the fence panels wrapped in field fence in the background of some of the shots.


----------

