# Board and Batten Siding?



## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

Ok in the past with Board and Batten Siding I've just put up Nailers and Nailed Boards to them.

This time I'm going to put up OSB Sheating.Thinking of putting thin Blue Foam Board over this.Do I want to just Nail Board and Batten to this or am I going to have to put up Nailers too? I'm thinking I won't have to.

big rockpile


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## MushCreek (Jan 7, 2008)

I would put up nailers. If moisture gets behind the siding (and it always does) it will be trapped there, with no way out. The nailers will create an air gap to allow drying. Just make sure you put up some kind of screening to keep bugs out, or you'll have your own ecosystem behind the siding.


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

Ok original Plan was to put up 2X6 Nailers,put thin Blue Foam Panel over this then 1 inch Board and Batten over that.

Guy at the Lumber Yard is saying we would be better off putting OSB Sheeting up and Regular Primed Siding over this.

We was kind of thinking compromise by putting up the OSB and Rough Cut Oak over this for more of Rustic look.

But do you think we will be ok with original plan? Only thing we're doing from what we did before is using Pine instead of Oak for Nailers.

big rockpile


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## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

The old farmhouse we are redoing originally had board and batten siding cut and milled right here on the property (yellow pine). In the 1960's they took off the battens and put up that ugly tar paper siding over the boards. Best I can tell, the boards have fared ok under there but lot's of moisture so our plan is to take off the tar paper, let the boards dry out good, replace the ones that need it and add back the battens from rough cut stock purchased at a local mill. I am in the process of gutting the inside of the house and will be installing normal insulation and a vapor barrier from the inside. I think the best route to go with board and batten is nailers and insulate from the inside. Also, the original walls are still in the area where they closed in the back porch and, even with the nailers, you should see the warping on those boards. If you want it to last, I strongly suggest using nailers and insulate from inside. FYI this farmhouse is over 100 years old so the boards are that age as well. Sometimes, old houses make good laboratories to see the long run outcome of carpentry decisions LOL.


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

Ok another idea.we did this on part of this place but we put Foam Panels over Studs,used 1X8 Oak Nailers,then rough cut 1X8 Rough cut Oak Boards over this and Battens.Treated with Thompsons.

Seems it will hold up well and breath.

big rockpile


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

I take it rough cut oak is cheap? Wouldn't be my first choice for siding but I've never used it either. No rough cut cedar there? I would add a Tyvek air barrier to contain air migration and leave some expansion room for your boards to swell and shrink with moisture changes. I like Thompsons water seal but I'm thinking an oil based stain might work better and look nicer.


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## silverbackMP (Dec 4, 2005)

I would (and have participated in such on my parent's house) nail the foam board between the nailers to the stud and tape the crap out of them at the seams. This would give you some ventilation between the foam and boards. I wouldn't use tyvek with this as you risk having two moisture barrier/retarders. The Sykamore that we put up on my parent's barn has held up well for the past 20 years and well on the house for the last 15. 

If treating with linseed oil watch those rags!! Spontaneous combustion is possible. Also, if your going with a metal roof don't let any drip on the roofing as it will strip the paint right off.

I would highly recommend white oak if going with oak. Should last 100 years or more.


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## just_sawing (Jan 15, 2006)

1 I would not use Oak poplar is more termite resistant. 
2 Nailers with the blue inbetween is good. 
3 Put batten up quick. That is one os the mistakes I see most often (I have done it myself)
4 If you know yout wood put the cup to the outside and the batten with ring shank nails. THe boards will meet the batten and be water tight. 
5 Never nail the batten to the board but to the nailer.


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

just_sawing said:


> 1 I would not use Oak poplar is more termite resistant.
> 2 Nailers with the blue inbetween is good.
> 3 Put batten up quick. That is one os the mistakes I see most often (I have done it myself)
> 4 If you know yout wood put the cup to the outside and the batten with ring shank nails. THe boards will meet the batten and be water tight.
> 5 Never nail the batten to the board but to the nailer.



All we have is Oak,well we do have Cedar but its too high and splits easy.

big rockpile


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## Guest (Mar 12, 2011)

just_sawing said:


> 1 I would not use Oak poplar is more termite resistant.
> 2 Nailers with the blue inbetween is good.
> 3 Put batten up quick. That is one os the mistakes I see most often (I have done it myself)
> 4 If you know yout wood put the cup to the outside and the batten with ring shank nails. THe boards will meet the batten and be water tight.
> 5 Never nail the batten to the board but to the nailer.



Interesting & I have a couple questions . I assume the nailers are run horizontally ? How far apart should they be ? Looking at the end of the boards would show the circular growth rings ? I assume the boards would cup to match the growth rings ? I also assume the boards would be put on to cup out & the batten boards would be put on to cup in ? If the batten boards get nailed only to the nailers I assume they would get only one nail at each nailer driven in between the wall boards ? Is there a certain width the batten boards should be ? If I'm all messed up here tell me about it . Thanks


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## glenn amolenaar (Mar 3, 2007)

BRP,
Go with the Oak, look around at all the old buildings lot of them are 50+ years still standing most are Oak and most never saw any stain or sealer they were just nailed up and kept the boards off the ground a foot or two. Last summer I took down a couple oak buildings from the 30s neighbor never put any thing on them. He let manure and trash build up and frames rotted. 
Glenn


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

WV Hillbilly said:


> Interesting & I have a couple questions . I assume the nailers are run horizontally ? How far apart should they be ? Looking at the end of the boards would show the circular growth rings ? I assume the boards would cup to match the growth rings ? I also assume the boards would be put on to cup out & the batten boards would be put on to cup in ? If the batten boards get nailed only to the nailers I assume they would get only one nail at each nailer driven in between the wall boards ? Is there a certain width the batten boards should be ? If I'm all messed up here tell me about it . Thanks


Put Nailers couple feet apart.Yes they will cup with the Growth.Battens are most usually 2 inches.



glenn amolenaar said:


> BRP,
> Go with the Oak, look around at all the old buildings lot of them are 50+ years still standing most are Oak and most never saw any stain or sealer they were just nailed up and kept the boards off the ground a foot or two. Last summer I took down a couple oak buildings from the 30s neighbor never put any thing on them. He let manure and trash build up and frames rotted.
> Glenn


Yea got some Building on the property even this Shack that are still going strong after 17 years.

Decided last night just to use Oak on the whole thing much stronger than Pine just can't put a Nail it it after its dry.We are going to use Pine on the Rough Frames of the Doors and Windows.

Have built with Pine in the past and enjoyed putting Nails in it but cussed it being weak.

big rockpile


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## silverbackMP (Dec 4, 2005)

just_sawing said:


> 5 Never nail the batten to the board but to the nailer.


Yep, the nails in the battents need to hit the crack between the boards and hit the nailer, thus allowing movement in bats and boards. I would say 3-4 in on battens. I don't think 2 is enough to keep the bulk of the water out during a driving rain; probably also depends on athestics. Wider boards would call for wider battens IMHO. I forget if we went o or three feet on center for the nailers. The barns was pole style and the house was 2x6 stick built.


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

silverbackMP said:


> Yep, the nails in the battents need to hit the crack between the boards and hit the nailer, thus allowing movement in bats and boards. I would say 3-4 in on battens. I don't think 2 is enough to keep the bulk of the water out during a driving rain; probably also depends on athestics. Wider boards would call for wider battens IMHO. I forget if we went o or three feet on center for the nailers. The barns was pole style and the house was 2x6 stick built.


Ok makes sence on the Battens,I'll probably go with 3 inch.We're going with 8 inch Boards,if I went with 4 inch Batten it would be too much.

big rockpile


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## Guest (Mar 12, 2011)

Thanks for the info guys . I built a small goat barn a few years ago . I set treated 4x4's & nailed rough cut 1x6's horizontally to the 4x4's . I bought rough cut farm grade lumber from a local mill & used for the vertical boards . Lumber was mostly oak & some of it was cherry . I bought furring strips from Lowe's or 84 Lumber & used for battens . I even used rough cut 1x6's for rafters on 16" centers . Used rough cut boards across the rafters & put metal roofing on it . Building didn't turn out to bad considering everything . I never gave a thought to installing the boards so they would cup a certain way & I nailed the battens to the boards instead of the the nailer . Didn't know any better .
I've been thinking of building a garage & I have lots of nice , big , straight poplar trees . What would happen if I had those trees sawed into lumber & used the green lumber to build the garage ? Any other info on building using board & batten appreciated .
BR , not trying to hijack your thread .


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## silverbackMP (Dec 4, 2005)

big rockpile said:


> Ok makes sence on the Battens,I'll probably go with 3 inch.We're going with 8 inch Boards,if I went with 4 inch Batten it would be too much.
> 
> big rockpile


If you're buying green from a lumber mill (I assume) you can go with random width for much cheaper and it looks good. Most boards on board and battens are/were random width--usually 10" to 14". Use the smaller boards as material to rip your battens. The inch and half overlap of the battens on either side make the boards appear smaller.


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

silverbackMP said:


> If you're buying green from a lumber mill (I assume) you can go with random width for much cheaper and it looks good. Most boards on board and battens are/were random width--usually 10" to 14". Use the smaller boards as material to rip your battens. The inch and half overlap of the battens on either side make the boards appear smaller.


My wife said 8 inch because she feels the Wider Boards Cup more.But I feel it has alot to do with when the Logs are cut.I an't even talked with the Sawmill yet but I'd like to use the wider Boards.

big rockpile


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

We have douglas fir here, I use 1"x12" and 1"x4" batten boards, rough cut over diagonal 1"x sheathing. You would not need nailers with the sheathing. I would use a tyvec material between sheathing and siding and 2"x6" studs to get enough insulation in....James


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## ebriggs51 (May 22, 2003)

big rockpile said:


> My wife said 8 inch because she feels the Wider Boards Cup more.But I feel it has alot to do with when the Logs are cut.I an't even talked with the Sawmill yet but I'd like to use the wider Boards.
> 
> big rockpile


I think your wife is correct, 8in. is wide enough if you are using oak because you will have cupping and the wider the board the more you will have. I don't know if you have any cypress in your neck of the woods or not but if you do, it cups very little and it is rot and termite resistant. It is also light and easy to work with. Oh, another thing, the boards will cup in the oppsite direction as to what it looks like it should( OR at least the way I thought they would)... Look at the end of your board to see the growth rings. Make sure the curve of the growth rings are pointed toward you when nailing the boards to the building. Is this about as clear as mud? Anyway, you will still have a little cup but it will be toward the building. 
As for underlayment, why not nailers only? I don't think osb would hold the nails but if you decide to put up nailers then osb I would get me a roll of black felt # 15 or 30 to go up before the B&B


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

ebriggs51 said:


> I think your wife is correct, 8in. is wide enough if you are using oak because you will have cupping and the wider the board the more you will have. I don't know if you have any cypress in your neck of the woods or not but if you do, it cups very little and it is rot and termite resistant. It is also light and easy to work with. Oh, another thing, the boards will cup in the oppsite direction as to what it looks like it should( OR at least the way I thought they would)... Look at the end of your board to see the growth rings. Make sure the curve of the growth rings are pointed toward you when nailing the boards to the building. Is this about as clear as mud? Anyway, you will still have a little cup but it will be toward the building.
> As for underlayment, why not nailers only? I don't think osb would hold the nails but if you decide to put up nailers then osb I would get me a roll of black felt # 15 or 30 to go up before the B&B


Thought about putting this in between the Studs and Nailers.Its what we've done before.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_15348-46086..._prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1

big rockpile


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## ebriggs51 (May 22, 2003)

big rockpile said:


> Thought about putting this in between the Studs and Nailers.Its what we've done before.
> 
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_15348-46086..._prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1
> 
> big rockpile


that should work fine.


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