# What size of pipe for a water line from well to house?



## ErinP

Flexible pipe, probably. You know, the black plastic stuff. 

How big should it be, running 900 feet from well to 2.5 bath house? 
One inch? Inch and a half?


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## painterswife

ErinP said:


> Flexible pipe, probably. You know, the black plastic stuff.
> 
> How big should it be, running 900 feet from well to 2.5 bath house?
> One inch? Inch and a half?


Ours is 1.5 inches.


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## spacecase0

depends on how fast you want the water to flow, I am past 900 foot with a 1 1/4 inch line and it seems to work ok, but then I was not paying attention to if more than one person is using the water at a time


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## Nevada

ErinP said:


> Flexible pipe, probably. You know, the black plastic stuff.
> 
> How big should it be, running 900 feet from well to 2.5 bath house?
> One inch? Inch and a half?


Rule of thumb is to assume 3 gallons per minute (GPM) for each shower, plus another 3 GPM if you want your washer to run at the same time. I would think that 10 GPM would be a safe flow rate to estimate pipe size with. I used this calculator for estimates.

http://www.freecalc.com/fricfram.htm

With 900 feet and 10 GPM you will get the following pressure drop for the indicated pipe sizes.

1" pipe, 23 psi pressure drop for PVC, 33 psi for galvanized
1.5" pipe, 3 psi pressure drop for PVC, 3.7 psi for galvanized
2" pipe, 0.9 psi pressure drop for PVC, 1.05 psi for galvanized

While PVC will give better performance than galvanized with respect to pressure drop, both are acceptable materials. I would consider the pressure drop for 1" pipe at that flow rate to be unacceptable, but I would accept the pressure drop for 1.5" pipe. You could use 2" pipe but I don't know if you would get your money's worth out of it.


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## Allen W

Gophers like black plastic p[ipe.


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## Nevada

Allen W said:


> Gophers like black plastic p[ipe.


You would use either white sch 40 PVC or sch 40 galvanized for a water line. I've never had a gopher problem with white PVC in the ground.


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## ErinP

Black plastic is what's most commonly used around here. Everything from house wells to irrigation wells are plumbed with plastic flex pipe


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## arabian knight

I sure would go with PVC.
They are even using PVC now in wells.
I just had a new submersible pump installed they took out the old galvanized, and replaced all with* PVC Schedule 80,* I believe the pipe was 1-3/4, as I did not see what it was, I just looked at what the Schedule was. LOL


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## Nevada

arabian knight said:


> I sure would go with PVC.
> They are even using PVC now in wells.
> I just had a new submersible pump installed they took out the old galvanized, and replaced all with* PVC Schedule 80,* I believe the pipe was 1-3/4, as I did not see what it was, I just looked at what the Schedule was. LOL


Schedule 80 PVC is worth considering, particularly in colder climates. Schedule 80 PVC offers better strength (doesn't "flatten" easily when buried) and offers some insulating properties when bitter cold winters are a concern. But I've had good luck with schedule 40. Just bury it below the frost line.










Note that sometimes building codes require schedule 80 when it's not really indicated.

If your well pump can develop more than 140 psi (sch 40 limit) then I would definitely consider schedule 80 (has a 200 psi limit).


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## jwal10

Schedule 40 PVC, 1 1/2" to first outside hydrant I like 1" hydrant. Then 1" to house. 3/4" into house to water heater, rest of pipe inside house, 1/2". We always used schedule 80 fitting start and end, slip (glue) to FIP (female iron pipe) thread. Don't use Galvanized pipe anymore especially if you have high minerals. Galvanized closes off inside with buildup after time. Flexible black plastic pipe is not good because fittings fit inside and close down the flow. Every fitting restricts the flow, bad on long runs, especially if you buy 100' rolls, too many fittings. Up size to 1 1/2 for sure....James


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## sustainabilly

When we bought our mobile home many years ago, the trailer dealer included a 100' roll of that black, ABS water line in with the purchase. I know it's often the inexpensive go to choice, and is often recommended. But, I still used Sch 40 to plumb from my well to the house. For one thing, it's easier to work with. Also, it just feels too soft to stand up to burying for many years, IMO. I did use the ABS though. I pulled the Romex for the well electric through it so I could be reasonably assured of no piercing by rocks, ...etc.


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## jwal10

IF you have more than 60 lbs pressure at the house, put a pressure reducer right outside the house. More than 60 lbs will ruin household faucets, especially if they have ceramic disks. You can check with a pressure gauge on outside hose bib. This gives full pressure and flow to any outside hydrants....James


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## Allen W

Nevada said:


> You would use either white sch 40 PVC or sch 40 galvanized for a water line. I've never had a gopher problem with white PVC in the ground.


 
Every thing new is PVC but I still have some black plastic that's at the end of it's life that needs replaced.


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## jwal10

Schedule 40 MIP (male iron pipe) fittings crack right at the thread, fitting is plastic cast and is very brittle and the bottom of thread is very thin. FIP fitting is brittle and if the fitting screwed into it is put in more than hand tight will crack the fitting, thus we used schedule 80 PVC fitting. I use Teflon tape and then a very thin layer of pipe dope, never had a leak, just hand tight. Glue fittings are fine in schedule 40. Also HERE we can use schedule 80 as standpipes for garden faucets. (Garden faucet had to have the downturned bib so no water is trapped in the faucet. The line pipe is laid below frost line and standpipe needs to be at least 2' above ground. The standpipe and faucet will freeze but not crack or split. You do have to wait until pipe thaws to get any water however. I use 1' for the standpipe and bury a treated 4"x4" right next to it, 18" above ground and use a conduit clamp to stabilize the pipe. I usually turn off the valve that feeds my outside faucets during the coldest weather (when it doesn't get above freezing all day) and open all faucets. I like hydrants better, IF I use water all winter as They do not freeze, but for seasonal use, I use Schedule 80 standpipes....James


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## Nevada

jwal10 said:


> Don't use Galvanized pipe anymore especially if you have high minerals. Galvanized closes off inside with buildup after time.


Yeah, that's a fact. The elements really go after iron & steel pipe.


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## manfred

I put in 2 inch schedule 40 pvc. 1250 feet. Its what my friend that is the boss of our rural water district recommended. Never had a problem for 5 years now. And I put a pressure reducer just inside the house.


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## Darren

I'm an advocate of 200 psi CTS polyethylene in the size you calc. You should be able to buy 500' rolls which means very few joints. Bed the pipe in sand. Use Ford fittings to connect the pipe. Plumbing supply houses will know what they are. Those are brass and add very little restriction to the flow since they are external compression fittings. Between the Ford fittings and the 200 psi nearly continuous run pipe, it's doubtful you'll ever have a problem. Just be sure to bed the pipe in sand.

Dig the trench, fill the bottom with sand, unroll the pipe, make one connection if you're working with 500' rolls, a few more with 200' rolls. Add sand around and above the pipe and backfill. Connect the ends to the well and house plumbing. 

It's that simple.


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## Rectifier

We have 1 1/4" Black poly. For all my materials knowledge, I couldn't tell you what black poly is.
In areas that freeze hard, black poly is good because it will expand a little if frozen. Ours is 8' down but the frost line got to 10' last year... no digging except for the brass valve on the yard hydrant.

PVC will shatter immediately if frozen.


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## Nevada

Darren said:


> I'm an advocate of 200 psi CTS polyethylene in the size you calc. You should be able to buy 500' rolls which means very few joints. Bed the pipe in sand. Use Ford fittings to connect the pipe. Plumbing supply houses will know what they are. Those are brass and add very little restriction to the flow since they are external compression fittings. Between the Ford fittings and the 200 psi nearly continuous run pipe, it's doubtful you'll ever have a problem. Just be sure to bed the pipe in sand.
> 
> Dig the trench, fill the bottom with sand, unroll the pipe, make one connection if you're working with 500' rolls, a few more with 200' rolls. Add sand around and above the pipe and backfill. Connect the ends to the well and house plumbing.
> 
> It's that simple.


Wow, 900' is about $2,000, and that's a home depot price.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Advanced...CTS-200-PSI-NSF-Poly-Pipe-4-2200300/203288264

PVC is less than half that.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-2-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Sch-40-Plain-End-Pipe-531137/100161954


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## unregistered353870

That black poly is a rock magnet here, even bedded in sand. I've replaced about a mile of it. Probably not so bad there. As others have said, 1.5" is the way to go. You could get by on 1" but you shouldn't.


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## am1too

Allen W said:


> Gophers like black plastic p[ipe.


Interesting. While black plastic will be cheaper white schedule 40. But the white pipe in sections is more particle when it comes to repair and logistics. I have never had a freeze bust a white pipe. Crosses fingers.


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## fordy

..............You need to calculate Total head pressure , from the well motor to the end of the pipe ! This , in turn , determines the Hp of the well motor and diameter of the surface pipe to the final point of discharge . , fordy


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## Nevada

fordy said:


> ..............You need to calculate Total head pressure , from the well motor to the end of the pipe ! This , in turn , determines the Hp of the well motor and diameter of the surface pipe to the final point of discharge . , fordy


Pressure drop is independent of head pressure, pump HP, or well motor discharge pipe size. If you run 1" PVC for 900' and flow 10 GPM, the pressure drop will be 23 psi regardless of whether the head pressure is 50 or 100 psig.


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## jwal10

Pex is the new wonder pipe and can be installed without digging with a line boring machine across your lawn. Tools to work it are a little expensive but can be rented....James


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## Nevada

jwal10 said:


> Pex is the new wonder pipe and can be installed without digging with a line boring machine across your lawn. Tools to work it are a little expensive but can be rented....James


I don't think you can direct bury PEX, but correct me if I'm mistaken. I'm confident that PEX is photo-sensitive, and needs to be protected from daylight.


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## jwal10

Sun light yes, buried is protected from the sunlight....James

http://www.ehow.com/how_6600174_use-pex-underground.html

http://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/pex-piping-everything-you-need-to-know/view-all


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## unregistered353870

jwal10 said:


> Pex is the new wonder pipe and can be installed without digging with a line boring machine across your lawn. Tools to work it are a little expensive but can be rented....James


I love PEX. I've been using it since the 80s to replace all that black poly when it springs leaks. Quite expensive for the larger diameters though. I think 1.5" is around $3/foot.


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## rambler

They started using a blue, thicker walled pipe around here now, like black poly, but some tuff stuff. Don't know what it is called.

I have about 400 feet of it now, with the new well a year ago and new water line this fall to the barn.

Boring it in sure went nice, in a way more expensive, but they go under out buildings, trees, etc and so use less pipe as they can go in straight line, so not always real expensive to bore it in.

As others said, at that distance, 1.5 inch, more if you have money.

Paul


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## unregistered353870

I think the blue stuff is what Darren was talking about...CTS poly or something...not sure if the CTS refers to "copper tubing size" as it sometimes does in plumbing or if it's the type of poly. I've noticed they use something that looks like that a lot in the Caribbean islands I've been to. No burial, just laid alongside the road.


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## msscamp

ErinP said:


> Flexible pipe, probably. You know, the black plastic stuff.
> 
> How big should it be, running 900 feet from well to 2.5 bath house?
> One inch? Inch and a half?


My new well was connected to the water lines for my house and the outside pens, and they used blue plastic line - not black. I know we've got a couple of outside waterer's that use the black plastic line, and we have to be very careful when doing repairs with them so as not to break the water line below ground. We've also had problems with water lines developing holes due to thin walled PVC pipe and the glue eating through them. Just a little something to think about. If I had to guess on the size of the blue line, I would say it was 1 1/2".


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## Darren

It's black and NSF stamped. I had 200' pulled in under the creek with a directional drill and never had a problem. That was not embedded in sand. I'm not sure Lowes/Home Depot is selling the same stuff. I'd check a plumbing supply house. The stuff I used was CTS but the wall thickness was heavier than what I saw at Lowes. The bottom next to the creek was silt so the trencher went through it fast. The hill was rock and the trench for the pipe had to opened with a jack hammer. I ran 2" due to the uphill run and the distance, something over 1,000'. 

No problems in over ten years.

I have used guard pipe in places where erosion or water flow might expose the pipe at other places.


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