# Sticky  Jury rigged tools when you don't have the right one



## moopups

Hopefully you all can add to this as we go along. One of the handiest things I have found is useing a cotter pin with the ends equalized as a tire valve stem tool, simple put a nail through the loop and spin away.

Item 2 is broken post hole diggers replacement handles, a pair can be fashioned with a single length of old style tv antenna shaft, its the right size and thickness and if you put a pair of 3/4 inch pipe slugs about 12 inches long at the bottom they are near unbreakable.

A 'C' clamp makes an exhaust flange couple with the manafold quite nicely in the absense of the propper bolts.

Take your exstension cords plugs and insert a blade to seperate the folded over insert portion to make the plug stay in a loose socket.

An old style Chrysler auto air condidioning pump makes a grand air compressor pump.

When streaching barbed wire do not 'seat' the staples anywhere but the ends, this allows the wire to exspand and contract which prevents breakage.

Nails with the points dulled crush through rather than split dry or hard wood.

There are thousands of tips, tool doubleing devices, ideas that are common knowledge to you that others have not thought of before. If the other mods agree we can make this a sticky adding info as it comes in from your sources, feel free to add useful tips or tool replacements here.

Also please note that we have a links library next to the archives with major info sites reserved for your use.


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## Ozarks_1

Ever try keeping the four brushes in place when reassembling a starter?
Not an easy job, but I found an old plastic pill bottle of just the right size and cut the bottom out. The bottle holds the brushes in place until you're ready to remove it.


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## Blu3duk

this sounds like a good sticky post...... to which i would add the following recipe

mix bacon grease with just a little bit of diesel to get a runny paste to use when drilling metal to save drill bits, it seems to stay on the bit itself and as the bit gets hot, the pig grease goes right to the heat..... use a small paintbrush to put it on with....not a tool, but better than buying spendy brand name oils.

William


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## Ross

So lets make it a stickie! 
Don't throw out broken C clamps, often they can be tack welded in place to hold a new part that has to be held firm in an awkward position.

Cheap vice grips are also great for home made welding clamps, add on the weird jaw you need and clamp the parts to be joined. Bet new vice grips types start out that way!!

Odd heavy chunks of steel end up beside teh hydraulic press to make even platforms for bearing extraction etc. 

We make our own drill powered paint mixer rods out of scrap, and have feshoined many weird holder, drivers, and screw etractors from broken tools. 

Should be an interestign thread!


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## farminghandyman

Jury rigged tools when you don't have the right one
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I thought that was when you were using a pipe wrench with a pipe on the handle, with a crow bar in the pipe for more leverage while standing on top of 6' step ladder, with a disclamer riding at the bottom that says 
"this a profesional Fool do not try this at home,"

there are many occasions that one doesnt have the correct tool and may have to create one from the stuff at hand,
but I do caution do it safely, if you need to spend some money to get the correct thing then do so if possible.

may times using a jury rigged tool is dangerous and will distroy the equiptment being worked on. 

Kinda like using a cutting torch for a wrench, yes you can get the bolt off but for some reason you have a very hard time puttng it back on,

I have modified , made and built tools by the truck load over the years, most when it was said and done have been replaced with purchused units, (mostly because the right things were not used to build them),

dont use old water tanks for air compressors, they were never designed to handle the pressures of compressed air and many times are thiner stock, if you do use a relief vale.

don't cut corners and jsut get buy, (my son in law, wired up his shop, did not have heavy enough wire and tryed two number 12 romexes for coming in to the main breaker box, thankfully there was a main breaker at the pole),

there is emergency jury rigging,
and there is cheap jury riging 
and there is stupid jury rigging,

and by the way is it jury rigged or jerry rigged?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-jur1.htm
JURY RIGGED
[Q] From Robert Williams: âIâd seen the phrase jerry rigged and assumed it was related to WWII and the efforts of German soldiers to keep things running by patching things together. However Iâve also seen it spelled jury rigged. Where does this expression come from?â
[A] Itâs much older than World War Two. In the form jury rigged itâs from the days of sailing ships and dates from the early 1600s, if not earlier. It refers to a mast which is makeshift or a temporary contrivance, perhaps because the original was lost or damaged in a storm. Nobody knows for sure where it comes from. It has been suggested that itâs a shortening of âinjury-riggedâ, though that sounds to me like something invented well after the event. Another suggestion often made is that it comes from the old French ajurie, âaid, assistanceâ.
We also have the term jerry-built, for a house thatâs been thrown up using unsatisfactory materials; this dates from the middle of the nineteenth century and is sometimes said to derive from the name of a Liverpool firm of builders (one with a reputation that has travelled, obviously) or possibly a contraction of Jericho (whose walls fell down, you will remember, at the blast of a trumpet). Neither has been substantiated, Iâm sorry to say.
Itâs possible that the confusion between jerry and jury is much older than we think and that jerry in jerry-built is actually a corruption of jury, in the modified sense of âinadequateâ rather than âtemporaryâ.
And, of course, Jerry has yet another meaning, the one you referred to in your question, an informal version of German, hence jerrycan. These three terms have got thoroughly mixed up in peopleâs minds, to the extent that we may never be able to disentangle them again.


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## fordson major

adjustable wrench makes a good micrometer also a hammer (never use it as a wrench,will slip off and bust your knuckles!!) duct tape, have seen this used to seal every thing from lay flats to mail boxes, apply liberaly.
baler twine/electric fence wire holds gates up ,broke pieces together and with a stick can double as a pipe wrench.

we always called it jerry rigged after a good friend of ours that can combine/machine the most broken up stuff and get you going! his son has this talent to though of late has slipped over to the dark side (auto mechanic) 

good sticky subject!


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## Northman

I generally don't care for making tools unless one doesn't exist or is not available to the general public. I have a tool buying addiction I spend a few grand a year on tools.

BUT, I do have some do-it yourself tips.

When bleeding brakes you don't need 2 people to do this if you make the repair and refill , pump the brabes several times really hard then open the bleeder and wait. usually within a minute or two the fluid will run and begin to remove the air with it. however if it doesn't close the bleeder almost all the way and pump a few more times then let them gravity bleed until no more air gurgles out of the bleeder.


If you get a leak in your radiator ground black pepper will seal smaller leaks and a couple egg whites will seal medium sized leaks.

when replacing a thermostat in a vehicle opening the t-stat and putting a small piece of uncooked spagetti in to hold it open until you can fully fill the cooling system. this helps reduce the "burp" required to get all the air out of the system.

When in tank fuel pump failure is suspected in a vehicle alot of the time you can thump the tank with a rubber mallet to bring it temporarily back to life.

When taking measurements while woodworking instead of writting the measurements on a scrap piece of wood (which always is misplaced befor measuring a piece of wood to be cut) write it on the backside of the measuring tape this way it is always where you need it.


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## moopups

When ripping lumber lengthwise, finding the center is as simple as placeing the tape measure diagionaly across the wood to an even number (4, 6, 8 ect) then mark the half way number - it is automatically the center of the piece of wood.

Creating a square cornor when laying out a buildings string lines is easy useing the 3,4,5 or 6, 8, 10 method, or any ratio equalling the same numbers. A square cornor measured 4 feet in one direction, 90 degrees away it measures 3 foot, the distance between the two marks is 5 foot when the cornor is squared.

Concrete has a compaction factor, meaning that if you have exactly a 10 cubic feet pour it will take about 11.5 cubic feet to achieve haveing enough concrete to fill the pour. The reason is the consumed air space between the sand when it is dry. Same with soil fill, its compaction factor is 25% additional needed after it is packed down.

Doubleing a pipes diameter allows 4 times the flow of the original size.


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## BobK

easy way to square a layout. Set two parrallel lines and anchor two corners on one line. Swing a arch from one corner and mark on the adjacent line...swing the same length arc from the other corner and mark this intercept. Measure between marks to determine the center then measure out to set your corners...eprfect everytime!


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## 2story

1. rent expensive tools, its worth it
2. Rental stores can be a good place to look for used tools to buy.
3. http://www.alldatadiy.com/ is worth the money.
4. when working with pvc pipe, tape the cement and primer together with duct tape, it is less likely to spill.
5.If you fix your own stuff spend money on tools you NEED.
6.balloons are handy tools
7. buy a pen-type voltage detector they are cheap, and are great for trouble shooting
8. Sometimes it is cheaper to pay a pro.


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## mohillbilly

I have restored a few antique stationary engines, some of them with seized pistons. I read about this technique years ago, but sont remember where.

This is a last chance method, and has worked after soaking the piston in everything from kerosene to cokeacola.

After the head is pulled, pack the seized piston/cylinder with grease. reinstall the head ( with gasket). Take an old spark plug that fits the head, knock out the porcelain, and braze, solder, weld a grease zerk fitting in the end of it.

Install the modified plug and hook up your grease gun and start pumping! Most grease guns will easily do 500- 1000 psi of pressure, and that is enough to force the siezed piston loose!


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## desdawg

When changing sprockets or pulling the flywheel to get to the ignition parts on a chainsaw there is a special nylon tool available to stop the engine from turning over. Remove the spark plug and insert the tool into the cylinder through the plug hole to stop the piston from moving without causing any damage. If you don't have this tool a piece of recoil starter rope will serve the same purpose.


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## Cabin Fever

Ya know, this may be a northern versus southern thing, but we call this type of stuff as being "*jerry * rigged," not "*jury * rigged,"


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## moopups

If you have hard service machinery that tend to have nuts loosen often that problem can be cured by useing what is known as a 'prick peen'. After tightening up the nut to its final placement take a fine point punch and put a dimple into the first full width exposed thread riser, this will not allow the nut to loosen but it can be overridden with a wrench if further need to relocate is needed. The dimple should be so close that it contacts the nut.


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## fordson major

to seat the bead on a tube less tire , remove weight from tire soap rim and tire .then take the valve stem out ,take air line with quick coupler (ours are m style not sure about a or s)and apply the end to the stem. may need to put a rachet strap around the tread of the tire to spread the sidewall. also works good to fastfill tubed tires though becareful not to over fill and blow tire off the bead.


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## moopups

Large tires can be a mess to get to 'take the bead', especually when new. Creating a controled explosion is one method to get them to seat; this is done with about a 1 &1/2 second spray of starter fluid into the tire after it is placed on the rim. Then fire is intruduced via a long handled flammable item such as a straw with its end lit. At all times keep your fingers away from the area where the tire will seat. The explosion will be small but quick and have enought force to spread the tire to the rim. It will be best to have someone whom has done this before show you how to do this safely.


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## posifour11

another way to bleed brakes by yourself is to find a small hose like vacuum line that will fit on the bleeder valve. place one end on the valve (after it has been loosened) and the other in a bottle of brake fluid. pump the brakes until firm. i just learned this a year or so ago and was amazed.


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## HermitJohn

mohillbilly said:


> I have restored a few antique stationary engines, some of them with seized pistons. I read about this technique years ago, but sont remember where.
> 
> This is a last chance method, and has worked after soaking the piston in everything from kerosene to cokeacola.
> 
> After the head is pulled, pack the seized piston/cylinder with grease. reinstall the head ( with gasket). Take an old spark plug that fits the head, knock out the porcelain, and braze, solder, weld a grease zerk fitting in the end of it.
> 
> Install the modified plug and hook up your grease gun and start pumping! Most grease guns will easily do 500- 1000 psi of pressure, and that is enough to force the siezed piston loose!


Cool tip and pretty much an extrapolation of the old grease trick to remove a stubborn pilot bearing/bushing in end of a crankshaft. Just fill cavity behind bearing/bushing with grease, then find a metal or hardwood rod same diameter as hole. I have been known to use ductape or electrical tape to increase diameter of rod as needed for good fit. Dont have to be anal about everything being perfect. Then sharply hit the exposed end of the rod. A stuck bearing/bushing totally unresponsive to even a slide hammer will just ease itself out. Quite amazing to see. Hydraulic pressure can be a great tool.

I am wondering about greasegun trick on a multi cylinder engine short of disconnecting connecting rods and removing crank. Do you use greasegun on pistons in firing order? Personally I have had good luck pouring ATF in stuck cylinders and letting things soak, but doesnt always work. Sometimes have to remove head and place end of 2x4 on top of piston and persuade it with a large hammer. The grease trick would be preferable though. Less chance of damaging anything.


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## mohillbilly

HermitJohn said:


> Cool tip and pretty much an extrapolation of the old grease trick to remove a stubborn pilot bearing/bushing in end of a crankshaft. Just fill cavity behind bearing/bushing with grease, then find a metal or hardwood rod same diameter as hole. I have been known to use ductape or electrical tape to increase diameter of rod as needed for good fit. Dont have to be anal about everything being perfect. Then sharply hit the exposed end of the rod. A stuck bearing/bushing totally unresponsive to even a slide hammer will just ease itself out. Quite amazing to see. Hydraulic pressure can be a great tool.
> 
> I am wondering about greasegun trick on a multi cylinder engine short of disconnecting connecting rods and removing crank. Do you use greasegun on pistons in firing order? Personally I have had good luck pouring ATF in stuck cylinders and letting things soak, but doesnt always work. Sometimes have to remove head and place end of 2x4 on top of piston and persuade it with a large hammer. The grease trick would be preferable though. Less chance of damaging anything.





Just a thought on this here, never done it on a multi cylinder engine. If it was me, I would work the cylinder that is closet to a 90 degree angle from the vertical of the piston stroke. this would gice you the greatest force on the entire "assembly"

And if you r realy motivated pack all the cylinders with grease and put the head back on. then work each cylinder a little at atime up and down. But stay away fromthe plug holes that are open whenyou do this, I have seen a piston jump back2 inches in an instant under hydraulic pressure. I am sure the grease in the other cylinders will spurt out like a bullet !!!!


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## John Hill

If you need to cut the head off a bolt without damaging what it is attached to, or maybe there is no room to get the hacksaw in and you dont want to use gas cutting, an easy trick is to use a drill. Choose a drill size a little under the diameter of the bolt and drill into the head, straight in the very centre of the bolt head, drill down about the thickness of the head then apply you spanner (sorry 'wrench'  ). The head will tear off easy and the parts will be undamaged. Also useful where the nut is out of reach on the other side or otherwise cant be held for unscrewing.


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## Drizler

This was shown to me by a guy who is an aircraft mechanic. When you need one of those special bent wrenches to get into difficult clearance areas just get one of your least favorite Chinese wrenches of that size. Put enough heat on it in the vise using your torch and bend it to the angle you need. The same goes for those specialty thin nuts with no clearance such as my Sharpes paint gun has on the air cap. Just put cheapy wrench in the vise and carefully grind the sides until it fits. Mine have held up for years this way as long as I am careful with them. Just don't remove any more material than you have to or heat it more than necessary.


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## moopups

Another good tip conserns slipping high speed drill bits, ones that twist in the drill chuck. Thats easy to cure, just tighten all three of the areas where you insert the drill chuck.


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## HermitJohn

Drizler said:


> This was shown to me by a guy who is an aircraft mechanic. When you need one of those special bent wrenches to get into difficult clearance areas just get one of your least favorite Chinese wrenches of that size. Put enough heat on it in the vise using your torch and bend it to the angle you need. The same goes for those specialty thin nuts with no clearance such as my Sharpes paint gun has on the air cap. Just put cheapy wrench in the vise and carefully grind the sides until it fits. Mine have held up for years this way as long as I am careful with them. Just don't remove any more material than you have to or heat it more than necessary.


Sometimes bending still doesnt allow tight enough clearance with correct angle. Sometimes have to cut and weld to make special crowfoot type wrench. Or some oddball socket like I needed to remove steering wheel on think it was an '80
Volvo. Needed to be extra long and I didnt even have a regular long socket that size, so I cut regular shallow socket just above the teeth and welded in a section of 1 inch pipe. Worked beautifully. 99% of time you can get around buying some special tool at high dollar prices. Course if you regularly work on machinery that needs a particular tool, maybe easier just to buy it. But for one time deal, not worth it.


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## Virg

Sometimes that oil filter is WAY up in there. An old seat belt grips tight around it and any rod that fits.


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## HermitJohn

Virg said:


> Sometimes that oil filter is WAY up in there. An old seat belt grips tight around it and any rod that fits.


I can visualize that working quite well and a tool to stick around in toolbox or workshop drawer if you made a slim slot one way or another on belt end for belt to fit in and weld a worn out socket to other end so you could use a ratchet. 

Personally I discovered a Chinese oil filter wrench like no american one I'd seen. Looks lot like pair of pump pliers only skinny and curved jaws to fit better around a minimal clearance oil filter. Was a little dubious about how they'd stand up since if they were too cheaply made, the thin jaws would no doubt break. I gambled my $3 and they work very well in tight places as you can grip at an angle and on very end of the oil filter. They have agressive teeth to grab any oil filter and they show no sign of anything bending/breaking. Watch out, Chinese tool quality is really progressing. If you do find such in your area, dont be tempted to use them on anything more solid than oil filters. Those jaws are pretty thin. Although they probably would work fine on say removing a stubborn jar lid.


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## HermitJohn

Putting in rebuilt duraspark distributor in Ford 2.8 today. Must have spent two hours getting very frustrated, thing just wouldnt seat properly. Proper gear and everything. Looked on internet in case of some trick I didnt know about for these engines. No. Finally stuck the end of distributor upto and including the gear in tube of grease. Thing seated easy as you could want. 

Now why engineers tend to like to put distributor at rear of V type engine is still a mystery. At least this is electronic ignition distributor and short engine bay. Still remember back with point distributors especially on full size pickup having to climb up on top of engine to adjust the points. Yuck.


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## moopups

Any application that address polority uses a standard wire code conserning which is meant to be the positive wire. There will be either a solid color line or dots applied to the positive wire, sometimes it is splined instead. The other wire is allways the ground. Of course in DC application the positive is allways red in color, black is the standard color for the ground wire.


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## Esteban29304

Don't have the right size open-end wrench? Take a wrench a little to large & fill the gap between wrench & nut/bolt, with washers, etc.
When replacing water pumps, & other parts on cars, it is hard to hold the gasket in place while you are trying to line the bolts up. After using sealant on gasket, attach it to the pump, etc. with dental floss tied thru the mounting holes. Just put the part on & leave the floss there. It will seal around it.
Hand start spark plugs by slipping a short piece of fuel line that snugly fits over the end of the plug.
To remove severely rusted bolts, spray "PB Blastersolvent" on head, daily, & tap with a pointed chisel hard, in the center of the head. May take weeks but it will loosen enough & come out with your wrench/socket..I removed head bolts from a 1940's tractor that way & they had never been removed before & were terribly rusted.
Trying to get the crankshaft pulley nut off to do repairs can be hard. Spin starter over noticing which way pulley turns. Put a large socket & prybar on it & wedge the end into an area of the car where no damage can occur. Bump starter just a little at a time & starter does the work for you.


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## Oilpatch197

Grease and Cardboard like a cigarette pack box makes good gaskets

cut out the gasket pattern, put grease on both sides and install, works good.


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## moopups

A quick check of an alternator's output simply place a long screw driver dangleing in the middle of a running unit. There will be a magnetic field both in the front and back, the rear one will be weaker, avoid the moving belts with this method. No field, no charging.


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## ColumbiaSC.

Back in the old days of glass bottles.
If I ever needed a funnel I would take a RC cola bottle and pour a small amout of gas in it, then place a 16 penny nail in there,, put my thumb over the opening and shake it away from my body and the bottom always poped out, instant funnel! 
PS NEVER clean out the bottle with your finger, learned that one early! hahaha OUCH!


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## ColumbiaSC.

You can take the long top off of a carton of cigarrets and use it to space the magnito from the flywheel on a Briggs and stratton, worked everytime!
Just wrap it around the flywheel and loosen the magnito then tighten, the magnets will do the work perfect!


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## ColumbiaSC.

has anyone ever struggled to turn of city water.. I use a cressent wrench ( open it to a half inch ) and a large screw driver thru the hole in the end to turn it off, like a tee handle. just a thought.


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## fordson major

turning off city water is illeagal in most parts and will get you a fine.


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## ColumbiaSC.

Only if you get caught!!


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## michiganfarmer

Columbia said:


> has anyone ever struggled to turn of city water.. I use a cressent wrench ( open it to a half inch ) and a large screw driver thru the hole in the end to turn it off, like a tee handle. just a thought.


 what do you do for water after it is turned off?


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## ColumbiaSC.

Put it on the stove and rekindle the flame!

I used to live in an old house in the city with galv. plumbing, NIGHTMARE.
I also do some plumbing now and then for work. Knock wood, never been in trouble. (YET) hahaha
on the lookout now for sure :baby04: 
Columbia,SC.


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## eris

I don't ever use a hairdryer anymore except to fix the car. Works great to dry out a wet distributor or you can use it to fix a newer car headlight lense with a rock hole... remove the lense, get out as much glass as possible, dry it out completely with the hairdryer then seal the hole. Lense is fixed without any water in it to break the bulbs.


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## ColumbiaSC.

Take a couple of blocks of wood and make a ramp for the good tire and pull ahead or back, you can raise the flat tire without a jack. Anything can be used as long as it is strong and not to steep. Be sure to lock the breaks after the tire is off the ground.
Columbia,SC.


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## ColumbiaSC.

Instead of using ether get a windex spray bottle and put a cup of gas in there, spray it in the carb instead. Works great and is alot cheaper. Not sure about a diesel engine though.


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## ColumbiaSC.

I would never deface currency but I have heard you can use a penny ect. to make a washer in a bind. Drill a hole in it, instant washer!


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## moopups

Defaceing money is not illegal, many people here wear belt buckles made from silver coins that have been melted together by many different means. Trying to return defaced money into circulation is illegal though.


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## fud2468

Moopups, thanks for starting this thread.
I was wondering how you lubricate the Chrysler A/C pump when using it as an air compressor?
Unless Chrysler units are different and have a sump, I thought A/C compressors had lubricant that circulates with the refrigerant.
Ray Mac


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## Iddee

I have never heard of it being illegal to turn OFF the water to your own home. It is illegal to turn it ON after the city turns it OFF.
Since the city is responsible for leaks only up to the meter, you can turn it off at anytime to fix a leak after the meter.


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## moopups

The compressors have an oil slump, to feed their crankcase adequate lubs. I do not know about newer models. The older models work like a common piston/crankshaft, to compress the freon for cooling purposes. There was installed an oil slinger to throw up an adequate supply of oil. Correct rotational direction is very necessary for the unit to survive.


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## Iddee

>>>I am wondering about greasegun trick on a multi cylinder engine short of disconnecting connecting rods and removing crank.<<<<

On multi-cylinder or single cylinder, fill cylinder with brake fluid. It may take a day or three months, but it will free the piston, or pistons.


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## dennisjp

farminghandyman said:


> Jury rigged tools when you don't have the right one
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> 
> I thought that was when you were using a pipe wrench with a pipe on the handle, with a crow bar in the pipe for more leverage while standing on top of 6' step ladder, with a disclamer riding at the bottom that says
> "this a profesional Fool do not try this at home,"
> 
> there are many occasions that one doesnt have the correct tool and may have to create one from the stuff at hand,
> but I do caution do it safely, if you need to spend some money to get the correct thing then do so if possible.
> 
> may times using a jury rigged tool is dangerous and will distroy the equiptment being worked on.
> 
> Kinda like using a cutting torch for a wrench, yes you can get the bolt off but for some reason you have a very hard time puttng it back on,
> 
> I have modified , made and built tools by the truck load over the years, most when it was said and done have been replaced with purchused units, (mostly because the right things were not used to build them),
> 
> dont use old water tanks for air compressors, they were never designed to handle the pressures of compressed air and many times are thiner stock, if you do use a relief vale.
> 
> don't cut corners and jsut get buy, (my son in law, wired up his shop, did not have heavy enough wire and tryed two number 12 romexes for coming in to the main breaker box, thankfully there was a main breaker at the pole),
> 
> there is emergency jury rigging,
> and there is cheap jury riging
> and there is stupid jury rigging,
> 
> and by the way is it jury rigged or jerry rigged?
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-jur1.htm
> JURY RIGGED
> [Q] From Robert Williams: âIâd seen the phrase jerry rigged and assumed it was related to WWII and the efforts of German soldiers to keep things running by patching things together. However Iâve also seen it spelled jury rigged. Where does this expression come from?â
> [A] Itâs much older than World War Two. In the form jury rigged itâs from the days of sailing ships and dates from the early 1600s, if not earlier. It refers to a mast which is makeshift or a temporary contrivance, perhaps because the original was lost or damaged in a storm. Nobody knows for sure where it comes from. It has been suggested that itâs a shortening of âinjury-riggedâ, though that sounds to me like something invented well after the event. Another suggestion often made is that it comes from the old French ajurie, âaid, assistanceâ.
> We also have the term jerry-built, for a house thatâs been thrown up using unsatisfactory materials; this dates from the middle of the nineteenth century and is sometimes said to derive from the name of a Liverpool firm of builders (one with a reputation that has travelled, obviously) or possibly a contraction of Jericho (whose walls fell down, you will remember, at the blast of a trumpet). Neither has been substantiated, Iâm sorry to say.
> Itâs possible that the confusion between jerry and jury is much older than we think and that jerry in jerry-built is actually a corruption of jury, in the modified sense of âinadequateâ rather than âtemporaryâ.
> And, of course, Jerry has yet another meaning, the one you referred to in your question, an informal version of German, hence jerrycan. These three terms have got thoroughly mixed up in peopleâs minds, to the extent that we may never be able to disentangle them again.



Any explanation one gives now, would be Jerry-Rigged, or jerry-rigged, or jury rigged, or, oh whatever, lol


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## dennisjp

eris said:


> I don't ever use a hairdryer anymore except to fix the car. Works great to dry out a wet distributor or you can use it to fix a newer car headlight lense with a rock hole... remove the lense, get out as much glass as possible, dry it out completely with the hairdryer then seal the hole. Lense is fixed without any water in it to break the bulbs.



I use a hair dryer every morning at about 5 am. I take used paper towels that we save from the kitchen, that we put into a plastic bucket and pour the waste oil on and use the two to start the fire. I have the fire roaring in 5 minutes tops, every morning, as needed.


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## dennisjp

Columbia said:


> Instead of using ether get a windex spray bottle and put a cup of gas in there, spray it in the carb instead. Works great and is alot cheaper. Not sure about a diesel engine though.



I have never found a spray bottle that would put up with gas. How about taking that styrofoam cup and get me a cup of gas


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## HermitJohn

dennisjp said:


> I have never found a spray bottle that would put up with gas. How about taking that styrofoam cup and get me a cup of gas


Get a squirt type oil can. They are or at least used to be all metal.


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## deepfat_chopra

You DON'T need tire irons (levers) to remove/mount bicycle tires.

If you get ALL the air out of the tube, and work the bead of the tire into the center of the rim ... you can generally pull the bead over the rim with your hands.


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## langoley

HermitJohn said:


> Cool tip and pretty much an extrapolation of the old grease trick to remove a stubborn pilot bearing/bushing in end of a crankshaft. Just fill cavity behind bearing/bushing with grease, then find a metal or hardwood rod same diameter as hole. I have been known to use ductape or electrical tape to increase diameter of rod as needed for good fit. Dont have to be anal about everything being perfect. Then sharply hit the exposed end of the rod. A stuck bearing/bushing totally unresponsive to even a slide hammer will just ease itself out. Quite amazing to see. Hydraulic pressure can be a great tool.
> 
> I am wondering about greasegun trick on a multi cylinder engine short of disconnecting connecting rods and removing crank. Do you use greasegun on pistons in firing order? Personally I have had good luck pouring ATF in stuck cylinders and letting things soak, but doesnt always work. Sometimes have to remove head and place end of 2x4 on top of piston and persuade it with a large hammer. The grease trick would be preferable though. Less chance of damaging anything.


 I have tried the pilot bushing removal trick sometimes without success,if this doesn't work just get yourself a thread cutting tap to fit in the bushing!!Once you get the bushing tapped the bushing will just "slide" right out of the crank!!


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## moopups

A perpendicular line can be established next to a straight line useing the following method. This would be used in an application such as placeing lines to have shingles straight. With standard shingles you place a line at 17 inches above the roof edge, snap a chalk line. Now chose where to place the perpendicular line and place a nail in the chalk line leaving a bit exposed.

With a light piece of chain, place the end link over the nail, insert a marking device and scratch an arch through the chalk line at both sides of the nail. This is normally done at some where between 3 to 5 feet. Use the same link to mark both arches. Now place a nail into the intersection of the arch and the chalk line. Useing the chain again strike an arch above the original nail so that both arches will intersect. Now place your chalk line end over the original nail and draw it tightly above so that it crosses the twin arches; this is 90 degrees from the edge line and totally perpendicular.

If in the event your roof edge follows an odd line or shape, useing the ridgeline can also accomplish the same effect. Simply reverse the procedure and strike the chalk line downward.


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## Beorning1973

I was putting up some lightweight field fence today, by myself, and was at a loss as to how to get a decent stretch on it that was spread out across the height of the wire. I ended up using an old garden rake with the tines inserted into the wire and then levered it around the post I was attaching to. Worked like a charm. If you position the rake right you can lever it around far enough to stick the handle back through the wire and it'll hold it for you while you drive staples.

I've always used a bit of vacuum tubing to start spark plugs. It gives some added length and still lets you feel if you've got it threaded right.

Screwdrivers poked through too tight oil filters to get them off was a staple for me until I finally broke down and bought a filter wrench.

My brother in law just gave me his old circa- 1995 thinkpad. The power cord connection was loose. He'd been wedging a chunk of play-dough under the cord until it made the connection for the last three years. It took about five minutes to resolder the connection, and an hour to pick out all the bits of dried up play dough.


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## Beorning1973

I've also got an old freezer in my woodshop that I installed a standard ceramic light socket in. I put all my finish/glue/paint in it, along with the batteries from my cordless tools in the winter and run a 25 watt bulb. Keeps everything from freezing. One of these days, I'll get around to rigging a thermostat so that the light isn't on all the time.


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## Gideon

Good thread, I use the grease/hydraulic punch often to take out worn pilot bushings in flywheels. If you have a bearing race with a closed back simply run a short welding bead and it will fall out. The weld contracts the race. Putting one back in is the reverse--put a light bulb into the race area and the race into the freezer. Place the race in position in the heated slot and station it until it expands. When you "poof" a tire with starting fluid have the air line ready to keep it tight to the rim. If you have tubeless tires that will not seal put a tube in it. If you put tubes in mobile home tires always use the valve stem bushings. I soak my frozen/rusted items in diesel--have an old genset soaking now that sat in the weather for nearly a year. VW engines will seize up quickly and diesel works on them also. Made a homemade rust breaker liquid of diesel/brake fluid/ATF--works fairly well. Gideon


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## moopups

When using a cutting torch on rusted metal you can turn up your torch's fuel until it throws a blow torch like flame, this passed across the rust area will cause most of the rust flakes to separate from the metal, allowing a much less difficult cut - no flakes left to fly.

To cut very thick metal with a torch just turn up your oxygen pressure setting up to 80 or so pounds, try to make a continuous non interrupted cut. I have sliced 60 pound per yard railroad track with this method.

Cutting tanks that have had fuel or propane in them requires a removal of as much of the flammable substance as possible first. Then remove all the valves, everyone of them without exception. Install a small amount of diesel fuel, mear ounces. Place a wad of bathroom tissue in the biggest opening, leave a 3 foot or more tail on it, lite the tail and BE GONE when the flame gets to the wad, it will ignite and fall inside to lite the diesel. This burns out all of the dangerous compounds, then you can approach the tank with the torch. I have cut both diesel and propane tanks with this method, don't know about a gasoline tank.


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## Hip_Shot_Hanna

If you have a small engine that wont start and you cant make up your mind if its spark or gas problem , try using a propane torch just turn on the gas and shove the burner down the carb , (NOT LIT ) if it fires its a gas problem .if not then it's spark .


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## Librum

Ladders for trees are a pain to me. Until my DH brought home a 1 foot wide data rack. Solid, heavy, prongs dig into ground and tree trunk. No tip! Just the thing to go up ten foot to hang birdfeeders and cut limbs.


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## moopups

An electrical cord that is constantly disconnecting its self, such as you would find when using an electric weed whacker, can be easily cured. Simply insert a knife blade between the two male prongs, they are most often a bent back on its self pair of prongs, spread them slightly. This creates a tighter fit, more unlikely to allow the cord to separate.


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## dogo

dennisjp said:


> I have never found a spray bottle that would put up with gas. How about taking that styrofoam cup and get me a cup of gas


He did'nt suggest to make a permanent tool out of it . When a person needs a shot of ether ? Its usually at that moment . Yes the spray bottle works and will work again if a person cleans the spray bottle out . Good idea, now I would suggest if you have plenty of money to waste ? You should store your gas in a styrofoam cooler. Have you got anymore bright ideas. This guy was trying to be helpful . Are you trying out for a comedian show ?


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## dennisjp

dogo said:


> He did'nt suggest to make a permanent tool out of it . When a person needs a shot of ether ? Its usually at that moment . Yes the spray bottle works and will work again if a person cleans the spray bottle out . Good idea, now I would suggest if you have plenty of money to waste ? You should store your gas in a styrofoam cooler. Have you got anymore bright ideas. This guy was trying to be helpful . Are you trying out for a comedian show ?


I was serious. I have tried it with about three different kinds of spray bottles and the gas would melt the plunger every time. Maybe you have use a different type than I did, but it never worked more than a squirt or two for me and gave up.


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## ColumbiaSC.

thank you DOGO,
I have a spray bottle in the back of my old Dodge truck that I have to use from time to time. I think it was an old armorall (spc) bottle or something like that. It was used to oily stuff and the last one was good for months.
It works for me, maybe not you, just a thought.
Columbia,SC


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## Gideon

Another hint to keep wire plug ends from seperating is to tie a simple overhand knot and then plug together-works great. Carpenters use it always. Gives them one less thing to curse about-lol. 
On starting a diesel engine-if only cold I simply use a shot of Ether(starting fluid) but if run out of fuel or other problem I spray both WD-40 and Ether into the intake---sparingly. Too much and the engine will over rev after starting. The WD-40 keeps oil on the piston walls preventing scouring. wc


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## ColumbiaSC.

Item 2 is broken post hole diggers replacement handles, a pair can be fashioned with a single length of old style tv antenna shaft, its the right size and thickness and if you put a pair of 3/4 inch pipe slugs about 12 inches long at the bottom they are near unbreakable.

I re-read this post again and saw this, this is a great idea but what if you hit a power line? What I did is take a treated 2x4 and rip it to the right size to go into the handle of the post hole digger, then put it on the table saw and 45'ed off the sharp edges, you end up with ogtagon handles that are alot nicer to hold and work with. With the octagon grips you have a better feel and control, you feel like you have something to hold onto instead of slippery round handles, did the same for the old wheelbarrow, same great feel~


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## dennisjp

I need to apogize. 
I tried two different bottles that was at the house and they worked. 
All I know is they must have changed the plastic sense I tried it. It sure didn't work twenty years ago. 
When I tried it, it was years ago, and I hadn't tried it after that. But it does work now.


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## Bloodwolf

not exactly , as I understand it defacing/destroying currency is illegal. You are however allowed to increase the value of currency by say making it into jewelry.

as for a qwik fix tip , nothing beats a bar of soap to fix a hole in a gas tank, a friend decided to drive his firebird up into the uinta mountains to go fishing if not bad enuff he did it at about 50 mph on some very rough broken stone roads.As ya might expect when he finally went over a big one BANG left a gouge you could stick a pencil into and the gas was flowing fast and free. So just throw a cheapo hotel bar o soap in with your spare it may be the difference between spending a night on a mountain and getting home with those fish 8)

btw I haven't tried it myself but heard that for cutting a tank that had propane or other flammable in it was best to fill with water first.. of course doesn't sound as exciting as the 'molotov' plan.


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## Gideon

Cleaning a flamable liquid tank is dangerous business. Steam clean that tank first and then fill with water. You may still get a small pocket of flamable in voids but hopefully not enough to blow the thing up in your face. 
For handles, I take a hand saw and lightly cross hatch them for better grip. wc


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## Hip_Shot_Hanna

having to make a sick goat pen in a hurry i needed 2 hinges , for a gate , on the side of the road you find lots of pieces of thrown tread off truck tyres , cut some off and bolt nail or screw then to the post and door voila , quick simple CHEAP hinges . and they last for ever


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## kash

how do you apply the soap to stop the leak 
kash


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## ColumbiaSC.

This isn't 'tool' so to say but it is usefull!
Take any old broke power tool with a good cord cut it (cord) off and save it, then use a electrical (plastic is prefered) 2 plug box, 2 wall outlets, and a cover, wire it up and you have a cheap 4 way plug. It is not waterproof but real handy! I have them all over the place and if one get 'lost' your out only the time you spent putting it together and maybe $3.00


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## moopups

Disassembling a stuck 2 piece fishing rod is easy if you put it behind yourself, at above knee level. One hand to each side - grasp. Now spread your knees slowly.

Lubricate such with the oily substance found between your nose and eyes, on your face, that all thats needed.

Applying the string to a long bow is accomplished by putting it between your legs and hooking it over one foot while behind the other leg.

The most final grasp of a line can be accomplished by holding the line with one hand and bringing the other hand up underneath the line. Now move the line toward the object it is attached to while raising the second hand, use your thumb and fingers to close in on the line. There is a loop present now across the back of your wrist, it can be dropped immediantly if needed. Do not use this with livestock, they are too strong - they can take your hand before you have time to drop it.


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## ColumbiaSC.

I just posted this on another thread and thought it would be good here also.
If you have a trailer with tandem wheels you can change a flat without a jack if you have something to drive the good tire up on,, 2x4's, blocks, firewood ect. Set it in front or back of the GOOD wheel and drive up on them, this should/will raise the flat tire off of the ground. I have done this on a 24' trailer (loaded) with great results.
Be carefull and lock the brakes.


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## moopups

If you start getting a squealing sound from your alternator, that is the likely indicator your battery terminals are corroded.


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## blufford

Bloodwolf said:


> as for a qwik fix tip , nothing beats a bar of soap to fix a hole in a gas tank, a friend decided to drive his firebird up into the uinta mountains to go fishing if not bad enuff he did it at about 50 mph on some very rough broken stone roads.As ya might expect when he finally went over a big one BANG left a gouge you could stick a pencil into and the gas was flowing fast and free. So just throw a cheapo hotel bar o soap in with your spare it may be the difference between spending a night on a mountain and getting home with those fish 8)
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> 
> And what would one do with a bar a soap to stop a pencil size leak in a gas tank?


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## moopups

If you have a padlock that keeps getting jarred loose and falling into the dirt, simply place the bowed shank of the same into the hasp ring from the underside.


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## ColumbiaSC.

dennisjp said:


> I need to apogize.
> I tried two different bottles that was at the house and they worked.
> All I know is they must have changed the plastic sense I tried it. It sure didn't work twenty years ago.
> When I tried it, it was years ago, and I hadn't tried it after that. But it does work now.


Going back to the spray bottle thing, I dug it out of the truck the otherday, 2 years old at least by now,, still working. The gas smelled sour but it still burns and the bottle still works! I think it was a ARMOR ALL spray bottle, must be made for petrol products. Try it it works and is cheaper and better for a gasoline engine than eyther is,, I would think.


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## KRH

After spending several hours trying to trim high limbs and breaking my el cheapo pole saw in the process. I needed a bigger hammer so to speak.
I took a 16 inch chainsaw blade and cut it. I tied 25 feet of 3/8 rope to either end of the blade. taping the knots to keep them from hanging up on the limbs. Took an old sock. Filled it with small stones and tied that to one end of the rope. Throw the rope over the limb in question pull the saw blade over the limb and start cutting. I was cutting 5-6 inch branches 20 feet off the ground in a matter of minutes. no climbing no ladders. just tired arms.
Only problem I ran into was making sure the chain was the rightway when you pull it over the branch.


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## ColumbiaSC.

KRH said:


> After spending several hours trying to trim high limbs and breaking my el cheapo pole saw in the process. I needed a bigger hammer so to speak.
> I took a 16 inch chainsaw blade and cut it. I tied 25 feet of 3/8 rope to either end of the blade. taping the knots to keep them from hanging up on the limbs. Took an old sock. Filled it with small stones and tied that to one end of the rope. Throw the rope over the limb in question pull the saw blade over the limb and start cutting. I was cutting 5-6 inch branches 20 feet off the ground in a matter of minutes. no climbing no ladders. just tired arms.
> Only problem I ran into was making sure the chain was the rightway when you pull it over the branch.


Sounds like a good idea to me!


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## moopups

Rebar, for use in concrete pours, foundations, slabs, ect. Can be bent into tight corners by applying 2 pieces of pipe to either side of the bend. As long as the pipe is hollow enough to allow separations.

Of course apply the mid point bends first, there is no way to remove the pipe if its within a pair of bends. Most rebar is 5/8ths inch in standard construction.

Rebar must be totally enclosed within the concrete mix, any left to exposure guarantees future failure of the pour.


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## Librum

Moopups

A conduit bender, a 'hickey' does just as well when bending rebar. Better as there are code restrictions on the angles of rebar in CMUs in this area/state. Concrete Masonry Units. We used a 1/2 inch hickey and met all bend specs.


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## de Molay

If you have damaged threads on a bolt or nut that you must reuse and cannot replace, get some course valve grinding compound and smear it on the threads. Take the proper sized wrench, and slowly work the nut down the thread a couple of flats at a time back and forth, until you get it on as far as you can. Then clean the threads with diesel fuel, apply light clean oil and presto, you have just hand lapped your threads good as new. Also WD40 is basically diesel fuel with the smell removed.


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## Blu3duk

Here is a ball mill for crushing ore into 80-100 mesh for precious metal recovery, it was as it says originally intended use for a rock tumbler or polisher, but is an easy build and with a few modifications can be suited to almost any shop area.

I am building one that uses an axle thru the center and hangs off a frame [film at eleven] but i have the pillow blocked shafts for this one laying somewhere under something out in the shop and when i find them i will build this model too for a test of which is better.

www.acc.umu.se/~widmark/bigtumbler.pdf

A person can tumbler/ mill up to about 50 pounds in one of these, a similar commercial model will set a fella back around $800 frauds. They are used in precious metal recovery from scrap.

edited to add that if the file is no longer there, i have it on disk and everyone should save it on their computer too!!!


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## moopups

Pouring something in to the drain of the sink and it clogs, something such as rice or whatever. While the clog is still fresh just use your palm in place of a plunger. You will need a couple inches of water. (And a big hand).


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## ColumbiaSC.

This one is a GIMMIE but, if you get tar on your car or heavy bug kills on your car get the can of WD-40 out and some fresh clean soft cotton rags, spray let set and wipe.
Our van was COVERED after the road was re-coverd and this made it look new again!
Washing and waxing should be followed up after the WD-40 treatment.


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## ColumbiaSC.

Ever had to check/replace a 220 dryer plug to see if it is 'hot'? If you are unsure if the breaker is up to par? Take out you trusty Plumb brand hammer and place the side of it (metal head part) to cover the hot contacts,, if it is 'hot' sparks will fly and the fuse/breaker will blow! You are safe and good to go! Rub it all over the contacts again just to be sure!
A meter would not be a bad Idea to have on hand also but the hammer head will most likely give you a positive test result. P.S. don't do it in a pool of water..


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## PyroDon

Wont work on all tractors but yesterday I blew out a back tire on my AC WD 
being cheap and nopt having cash to purchase a new tire I pulled a pair off a Gleaner e combine . the track is a bit wider but they saved me a few hundred that a new tire would cost. 
After constantly dealing with flats on an old flail mower I finally started picking up old thrown semi treads off the highway I then bolted these directly around the steel wheel of the mower until it was built up to the size of a standard tire . Using a grinder I feather the tread to avoid the "Bump" they arent perfect but the heavy brush cutting its used for it doesnt much matter and I no longer spend as much time fixing flats as mowing.


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## moopups

When installing electrical wire through grey conduit pipe via the push it through method, at any point it hangs up and refused to go any further, simply slap the conduit (one end) on the ground. This some how causes the wire to continue moving through.


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## ColumbiaSC.

Never forget about the power of BONDO when it comes to fixing a dent or imperfection on a steel door or any other gash in a wood aplication (only if painted). I had to fix a bad spot on a new door I installed yesterday and the only thing that would do it FAST was Bondo.
This saved my tail in a hurry, 2-3 hours later you could not find the dent even if you tried!


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## mark68

i ran into a situation this past week when installing different pistons and rings in my 20hp engine. i realized that i didnt have a ring sleeve compressor so i got an oil filter wrench which was nearly the same size as my pistons and used that to compress the rings while i installed the pistons into the engine block that saved me a trip to town and the cost of the tool.


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## moopups

Large radiator hose clamps do that also. Add lube.


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## ColumbiaSC.

This may have already been posted, and I may have been the one that did it,.
If you have a tire off of the rim that will not air up because it is off the 'bead' or rim, 
give it a small shot of eather (spc) from the can, 1 sec blast no more, aim it it the open area between the bead and the tire. then throw in a match in the same area and the tire will seat itself. Be ready to inflate the tire with a air compresser fast/
THIS IS NOT A GOOD IDEA AND YOU BETTER NOT DO IT! but I have heard it works and it saves a trip into town. 
One more time,, forget I said this!!!


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## ELOCN

A person who rigs up something to work out of various parts is called a "bricoleur." The word is French.


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## ColumbiaSC.

ELOCN said:


> A person who rigs up something to work out of various parts is called a "bricoleur." The word is French.


what a relief,,, I thought I was Bipolar...lol and I am American!


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## HermitJohn

Sure some saw my thread about me needing to swap out starter ring gear on flywheel of my Ranger. Well apparently its old school where you used to be able to heat ring gear in kitchen oven. Tolerances are closer. I looked on internet and of course others complained and were told unless you have acetelene torch with rosebud tip, pretty much impossible at home as some you have to get much hotter than kitchen stove can accomplish. Great I have no wheels to get to town and like everything anymore, it would mean two trips, one to leave it, one to go pick it up week later and pay.

Fine, got to looking at homemade forges on internet. One was crudest forge i ever saw, with staggered fire bricks 3 or so layers high and fed with chunks from hardwood pallet. Guy said it took long time and lot wood to heat but it would melt lead....

Got me thinking about the time I plopped old pair boots in the wood stove and everything turned cherry red. So off to my scrap pile looking and then over to old Chucks junk pile next door. Took the inner tub with all the holes off an old washing machine over there and grabbed an old blown tire and rim I think off old Pontiac he used to drive. (He still owns the place but hasnt lived there in years). Set tub up on three rocks, then removed tire from rim and cut it up and stuffed it in tub, then added a shredded tire I had around. Found some sheet metal to support rim and laid rim on top and ring gear on top that. Following pics explain it visually. 





































My hint that it might be hot enough, the lead weight clipped to the rim melted. I fished it off with metal rod and when I put it on the flywheel, it just dropped on like it had huge amount clearance. Maybe not recommended way of doing this and definitely not advised in suburbs due to smoke and stink of burning tires, but it works if you are desperate enough.


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## raymilosh

When a car has a small coolant leak, it may only leak when hot and pressurized. I rig up a way to put compressed air into the radiator BUT ONLY UP TO 15 psi! I use an air chuck with a flexible hose and a pressure guage, wrap it in a plastic bag, stuff it in the radiator and prressurize the system. The leak will make it self apparent in short order. If you need to find leaks often and wanna get fancy, install a compressor fitting and pressure guage into a standard radiator cap.


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## SouthernSon

Blu3duk said:


> this sounds like a good sticky post...... to which i would add the following recipe
> 
> mix bacon grease with just a little bit of diesel to get a runny paste to use when drilling metal to save drill bits, it seems to stay on the bit itself and as the bit gets hot, the pig grease goes right to the heat..... use a small paintbrush to put it on with....not a tool, but better than buying spendy brand name oils.
> 
> William


Have used just plain ol' lard to drill and tap holes in one die shop where I worked. Diesel or kerosene is excellent for machining aluminum. 
Need to clean out anything drilled with bacon grease or lard as it has salt in it and can lead to rust in your ferrous metals.


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## beowoulf90

I've found a use for some of the old tread mills sitting in yards that never sell.
I cut and use the rubber tread on steps that tend to get slippery and I've used the rollers to make stands for around the table saws. the rest gets scraped or burned..


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## subfarm

"Jury" rig comes from French "jour" meaning "day": a fix for the day, temporary. "Jerry-built" I do not know origin for, but the two do get mixed.


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## ColumbiaSC.

I am sure everyone knows you can start a tractor with a cressent wrench or another large piece of steel by jumping the starter contacts when the key switch it faulty, just touch the main bolts holding the BIG wires, don't be scared of the sparks they won't hurt you; continue turning the starter till the engine is running,, has been working for me till I can find a new starter switch I can afford!
You know you are 'country' when you can HOT WIRE a tractor, or anything else that can 'MOVE YOU' lol


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## Riverdale

Last week at work, we needed to remove a 24 mm bolt (36mm head?). The wrench was locked up in someone's toolbox (where it wasn't supposed to be)

Wound up using a 1 1/2" end wrench, box end, with 3 10-24 bolts to take up the additional space. Worked good for in a pinch


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## Chixarecute

RE: starting a tractor with a wrench or steel - no, the sparks won't hurt you, but if the sparks ignite a fuel spill (even a little bit of overflow) on the tractor, that WILL hurt. DH's uncle received 3rd degree burns over the top half of his body. I never did see him in short sleeves. Be careful!


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## ColumbiaSC.

Chixarecute said:


> RE: starting a tractor with a wrench or steel - no, the sparks won't hurt you, but if the sparks ignite a fuel spill (even a little bit of overflow) on the tractor, that WILL hurt. DH's uncle received 3rd degree burns over the top half of his body. I never did see him in short sleeves. Be careful!


My tractor is a diesel so flash fires are not a big worry.. no leaks on mine.. but thank you for the heads up~
8-N users and gas tractor users, do what I said with caution~!


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## Wis Bang

mark68 said:


> i ran into a situation this past week when installing different pistons and rings in my 20hp engine. i realized that i didnt have a ring sleeve compressor so i got an oil filter wrench which was nearly the same size as my pistons and used that to compress the rings while i installed the pistons into the engine block that saved me a trip to town and the cost of the tool.


Hose clamp, that's what we always used w/ small engines.


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## salmonslayer

For about a year I had to start one of my mototcycles (82 Virago) with a screw driver by jumping the starter contacts which is down on the right side. Ended up installing a push button starter switch in the hole left when I punched out the helmet lock. It fit perfectly and the only problem I have had is that while my right hand is pushing the starter I cant use the front brake which makes it interesting starting on a hill. $22 bucks for a push button starter at NAPA -vs- about $150 bucks for a new handlebar starter module. Oh yea, I dont have a kill switch anymore but I never use one anyway.


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## ColumbiaSC.

I did this this last weekend,,I pulled a tractor tire and repaired the inner tube. I used wd-40 to slick up the rim, it worked wonders getting the bead on and off. I did the job with 2 small helpers 7 and 10 and we only had flat bars . a 3 foot crow bar and a a 6' post hole digger bar ( only used to break the tire over the rim) The flat bars and wd-40 did most of the work. The 4' crow bar added leverage as needed.
Soapy water should be used but WD-40 saved me this time!
P.S. Grandpa used to spray it on his knees to help relive pain!!
Anyone here know what G*I*M*P* is? Grandpa swore by it! I still have some and relish it like gold!


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## blufford

What is GIMP??


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## seagullplayer

Ever had radiator clamps on a water line you needed to remove, but the screws where rust welded tight? Use a cutting wheel on your dremel, it is the handiest tool you can have around when something goes wrong.

Locking a bigger combination wrench onto a smaller one for a cheater bar works pretty good, if you got enough room, watch them sore fingers.


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## columbiasc

G*I*M*P* as is spelled on the old bottle is a iodine based I think medicine that came in a dropper type bottle, you would drip a couple drops on your boo boo and it would heal
it up,,,,,,, Grandpa swore by it, he also dropped it in his eyes, that freaked me out!


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## Darren

I only did this once. Some folks were stranded along the road. One of the tires was flat. they had the socket for the theft-proof lug nuts. But someone had used an impact wrench to put them on. No one could keep enough pressure on the socket and breaker bar to keep it from backing off the lug nut. 

I used a chain hooked into the wheel on one side, a piece of 2x4 over top of the socket/breaker bar, and a come along hooked into the other side of the wheel on one side and the chain on the other side, The 2x4 was between the breaker bar and the come along. Tightening up the come along put pressure on the whole jury rigged assembly and kept the socket and breaker bar from slipping off. The lug nut finally gave and the tire got changed.


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## HermitJohn

Darren said:


> I only did this once. Some folks were stranded along the road. One of the tires was flat. they had the socket for the theft-proof lug nuts. But someone had used an impact wrench to put them on. No one could keep enough pressure on the socket and breaker bar to keep it from backing off the lug nut.
> 
> I used a chain hooked into the wheel on one side, a piece of 2x4 over top of the socket/breaker bar, and a come along hooked into the other side of the wheel on one side and the chain on the other side, The 2x4 was between the breaker bar and the come along. Tightening up the come along put pressure on the whole jury rigged assembly and kept the socket and breaker bar from slipping off. The lug nut finally gave and the tire got changed.


I hate those theft nuts. I suppose a necessity on some high dollar wheels still worth stealing but on older vehicle where wheels arent that desirable anymore, they are just a pain. Elderly friend had an old pickup and he lost the adapter key to remove them with lug wrench. He looked around for replacement key. Only way to get it was to buy it with a new set theft lug nuts and at a crazy price. Even then wasnt totally sure it was exactly the same. These things are hardened so vice grips and such cant get hold. I got angle grinder out and flattened two sides and they easily came off with big crescent wrench. Out away from electric sure this could be done with cordless dremel with cut off wheel chucked in it, Just lot quicker with angle grinder.


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## Percy

One thing I have found very helpful since I use VISE GRIPS alot was to weld a decent sized WASHER on to the part that you TURN on the VGs to tighten or untighten, it makes it real easy to turn it that way, weld it right to the turn device with the washing standing up like on its narrow side not laying flat, I think you guys can figure out what I mean, try it, really makes using VGs real easy and eay to tighten and untighten this way, the guy at ACE told me I should get a patent on it since its one of the best ideas he has ever seen, since I am an attorney I may actually look in to it or work something out with the company who makes VGs, I think its a winner, everyone who uses mine say its just such a great idea.

Try and see if it works for you.


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## Percy

Columbia said:


> This may have already been posted, and I may have been the one that did it,.
> If you have a tire off of the rim that will not air up because it is off the 'bead' or rim,
> give it a small shot of eather (spc) from the can, 1 sec blast no more, aim it it the open area between the bead and the tire. then throw in a match in the same area and the tire will seat itself. Be ready to inflate the tire with a air compresser fast/
> THIS IS NOT A GOOD IDEA AND YOU BETTER NOT DO IT! but I have heard it works and it saves a trip into town.
> One more time,, forget I said this!!!


I do this often for my wheelbarrow and moving dolly wheels when they go flat, they are tubeless, it loses the bead and its a PIA to get it to bead again, this little controlled explosion works real nice and isnt that dangerous but dont be doing this sort of crap unless you know what youre doing because I dont want anyone getting hurt with this jerry riggin ideas some of us hillbillies use lol.


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## Percy

subfarm said:


> "Jury" rig comes from French "jour" meaning "day": a fix for the day, temporary. "Jerry-built" I do not know origin for, but the two do get mixed.


Down South there is another derogatory word used ****** rigged, that I dont care to use myself but I am sure you have all heard it, sadly thats what I grew up hearing among the rural southern crowed of hillbillies who fixed all their own stuff. But I do like jury rigged and jerry rigged better.


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## millerized

HermitJohn said:


> These things are hardened so vice grips and such cant get hold. I got angle grinder out and flattened two sides and they easily came off with big crescent wrench. Out away from electric sure this could be done with cordless dremel with cut off wheel chucked in it, Just lot quicker with angle grinder.



Smack a socket that is 'just' smaller than the nut onto same. Use a breaker bar to remove the nut. Worry about the socket/nut later, but you can use a punch to remove it.

For fun, you can do a search for photo's of a guy who cut off his rim with a sawzall to get the nut off. Yeah, they're out there. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2684546 for photo's of the 'event'.:gaptooth:


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## Txrider

mohillbilly said:


> I have restored a few antique stationary engines, some of them with seized pistons. I read about this technique years ago, but sont remember where.
> 
> This is a last chance method, and has worked after soaking the piston in everything from kerosene to cokeacola.
> 
> After the head is pulled, pack the seized piston/cylinder with grease. reinstall the head ( with gasket). Take an old spark plug that fits the head, knock out the porcelain, and braze, solder, weld a grease zerk fitting in the end of it.
> 
> Install the modified plug and hook up your grease gun and start pumping! Most grease guns will easily do 500- 1000 psi of pressure, and that is enough to force the siezed piston loose!


Another I have found for unsticking stuck engines, remove the starter, use a large pry bar on the flywheel teeth. I can usually unstick engines quite easily this way with no damage, and either get them running or not have to try to get them unstuck after I pull the engine and am disassembling.


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## Txrider

Columbia said:


> This may have already been posted, and I may have been the one that did it,.
> If you have a tire off of the rim that will not air up because it is off the 'bead' or rim,
> give it a small shot of eather (spc) from the can, 1 sec blast no more, aim it it the open area between the bead and the tire. then throw in a match in the same area and the tire will seat itself. Be ready to inflate the tire with a air compresser fast/
> THIS IS NOT A GOOD IDEA AND YOU BETTER NOT DO IT! but I have heard it works and it saves a trip into town.
> One more time,, forget I said this!!!


I've done it many a time... Truck tire folks use that method regularly as well.

But do know it can make a tire leap 20ft in the air at times, and of it's a rim with a bead ring or lock ring it can be deadly dangerous. Put it on the bead, with a few PSI inside to spare.

I tend to use a long stick or pole 10' or so with a lit rag on the end to keep my distance instead of match tossing.


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## columbiasc

I had to re-hang a ceiling fan today alone. I could not hold it and reatach the wires alone, this a a 'hugger' type fan. I went out to the truck and took a hook off of a bungie cord (rubber strap) and used it as a third hand. I hooked it in the fan shroud and the fan mounting bracket at the ceiling. It held it in place for me while I connected the wires. It was not easy to twist in place alone, getting the wires in there but I never could have done it alone.


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## Liberty's Ledge

I just read this entire thread to be sure that I am not repeating someone else's trick. I was recently stranded on the side of the road with a torn heater hose. The hose had a split in it just past where it exited the engine, not completely broken but split about 3/4 of an inch long. I thought I could just fix it on the side of the road with some pliers and a jack knife (factory pinch clamp). Well the hose was at the back of the motor and I couldn't get pliers on it. I was left to either tow it or ruin it by driving it with it spewing coolant faster than I could dump it in. My sister in law was the only person able to come to my aid that day. Much to her surprise I called her and requested she bring me 10 plus gallons of water and a tampon. Bewildered, she arrived with lots of water and a handful of feminine hygiene products. I promptly unsheathed the tampon and plugged the split in the hose. I filled the cooling system with water and drove the remaining 15 miles home. The one and only time I have ever used a tampon.


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## tinknal

I work in a plastics plant. The techs all have slide hammers made out of vice grips. They use them to pull stuck parts from molds. 

They just replace the adjustment bolt with a length of threaded rod, slip a chunk of appropriate sized steel with a hole drilled in it to fit the rod, and a double nut on the end. Makes a very nice slide hammer. 

Here is a tip for a bad switch on a small engine such as a mower or chain saw. Most of these switches are just grounds. Remove the switch, put a piece of tape on the switch wire to keep it from inadvertently grounding out, and the engine will be perpetually "on". To turn off the motor just use the choke.


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## How Do I

Haven't seen it mentioned here...but one time I couldn't get my oil filter off the Blazer by hand. (_Who put that thing on there so tight??_ ) I looked around and found an old rubber bungee cord I had hanging on the wall where the hooks were long gone. I wrapped it around the oil filter, pulled on the one end and it turned it right off. No straining whatsoever to remove the oil filter. I grab that old bungee every time I go to change the oil now.


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## raymilosh

raymilosh said:


> When a car has a small coolant leak, it may only leak when hot and pressurized. I rig up a way to put compressed air into the radiator BUT ONLY UP TO 15 psi! I use an air chuck with a flexible hose and a pressure guage, wrap it in a plastic bag, stuff it in the radiator and prressurize the system. The leak will make it self apparent in short order. If you need to find leaks often and wanna get fancy, install a compressor fitting and pressure guage into a standard radiator cap.


I found out something better since then...
to find a coolant leak: leave the radiator cap on. pull the coolant overflow hose from the overflow tank. put pressurized air into the overflow hose. the air will flow into the radiator through the overflow hose When the pressure gets to the radiator cap's limit, the cap will begin to bleed off air. Now the system is pressurized to its designed limits and you can listen around for air leaks (or look for coolant leaks, if there is coolant still in the system).


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## Bob Huntress

You know the bolt on the old Cummins injector pump on the backside? I had a collection of box end wrenches that I've cut into a ring and welded onto a handle to get just a small amount of turn. Made my own clutch dog tool, also. I used the mill at the yard one evening after working and took a slice of 2 and a half inch steel round stock and milled a 3/4" slot on one side and a 1/2" on the other with a hole connecting the two, so I could use a 3/8" bolt to drive the clutch dogs. It worked great and I never had a clutch hang up on the dogs. I only used the 1/2 inch side once on a very old dump truck. Most Trucks that have clutch dogs use the 3/4". I think everyone has made several of their own tools. I'm sure that most of us who are to cheap to get one from Snap On or Kent Moore, have carved out some deep well socket the tighten fuel injector lines.


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## catahoula

Made this from some old seed drill parts and a wood working vise, as sketchy as it looks it works well enough to squeeze four springs 








It aint high speed by any means, it's "get 'er done"


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## n9viw

Had to get the fan off my '97 P'stroke (fan blocks the balancer, wanted to replace the front main seal), but the nut is thinner than most wrenches, and huge besides! 35mm or something I think. Heard they had a fan wrench kit to borrow at the local Oreilly auto store, but wouldn't ya know, they didn't have THAT size!

So, a 1-3/8" hole saw (borrowed from work) thru a 3x5" piece of 1/4" plate (from the scrap bin), an angle grinder to connect the hole to the edge of the plate, and a chunk of 1/2" water pipe (also from the scrap bin) welded to the other side of the plate. Put it on the nut, whack it with a hammer, and off she spun! I should take a pic, I still have it, just in case!


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## HuskyBoris

I have a surplus of GM truck serpentine belts I snag from work,I use them for various things that include a sling for medium size logs,carrying pipe and lashing a wire gate shut.I also have a shorter one thats cut that I carry when I walk the pasture,my cows are pretty friendly and like to "play" and it works great for keeping them back without even hitting them,whipping it above my head scares them and they keep away but it could be used as a whip if need be.
there are probably more uses than that as well so let your imagination run wild and head down to your local garage and see if they will give some free used seprentine belts.


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## n9viw

Boris, good one! I've kept a couple used serp's around as pulley chokers, load binders, filter wrenches, and anything else that needs more grip than my old paw has got. So long as I can hold on to the strap, the strap holds on to everything else!


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## HuskyBoris

I did the rear brake line on my 02 Chevy truck the otherday,to get the rear line out of the ABS unit take a hacksaw and cut the line so you can get a socket on it,remove,,and then comes the fun part of getting the new line to tighten,,take a 14mm wrench and cut it to 4 inches in length from the open end,not only will this help you tighten it but you slide a box end wrench over the top the frame to assist your leverage,,it's a tough area to work in.


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## Grumpy old man

The best rust buster ever is a 50:50 mix of trans fluid and acetone it works better than any kroil/wd 40 / penetrating fluid .Try it once and you'll never use anything else .Cheaper too !


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## Tractorpunk

moopups said:


> Hopefully you all can add to this as we go along.


I've an old Woods Cadet 60" Rotary Cutter, and it runs like a champ. It lacked one important feature: a chain guard to keep debris from impaling, dismembering, or beheading me.

They are expensive to buy (chain guards, not heads) and I don't weld (yet). That said, I inherited a barn-full of heavy chain, bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Plus a bolt cutter  We used angle-iron to make a chain guard across the front of the mower, attached to the front of the deck by 4 long and heavy-duty bolts. Painted everything Woods yellow and off it went to the field.

It works great, and none of my bolts had even worked slightly loose by season's end. For now, that is my favorite jury rigged implement.


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## joejeep92

Northman said:


> If you get a leak in your radiator ground black pepper will seal smaller leaks and a couple egg whites will seal medium sized leaks.


Do this with extreme caution. I have had two half-ton trucks that have come into the shop since the start of the year that a parts guy recommended the same thing and it plugged up heater core, water jackets, overheated, blew head gaskets and the bills were over 2k each. Don't know how much they put in but I think I flushed them each 5 or 6 times.


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## Allen W

How Do I said:


> Haven't seen it mentioned here...but one time I couldn't get my oil filter off the Blazer by hand. (_Who put that thing on there so tight??_ ) I looked around and found an old rubber bungee cord I had hanging on the wall where the hooks were long gone. I wrapped it around the oil filter, pulled on the one end and it turned it right off. No straining whatsoever to remove the oil filter. I grab that old bungee every time I go to change the oil now.


I used a lenght of vacuum line to do this the other day, worked great.


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## jesseduvuvei

base of a ground tamper.. didn't feel like buying one so welded a 1" pipe coupling to a 9x9 piece of plate with one inch black pipe as the handle. Works good


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## ForestToFarm

My son and i made a drag for our property we are developing. It was mostly just old stuff that many would have discarded. Works great!
Terry


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## JeepHammer

Common things,

The 'Field Repair' air hose isn't air line. Use fuel line and two clamps on each end at the air chucks.
When you need fuel line, it's right at hand and so are clamps.

A good heavy set of Jumper Cables make welding leads, and you can burn rods off two 12 volt batteries in series.
Thinner rods dig deeper/more heat, thicker rods stitch & smooth since you can't adjust the amperage.

Two batteries always beats a single battery & jumper cables.
Every 'Farm' & 'Off Road' vehicle should probably have a second battery to get you home when the alternator fails, and with a short connector cable & jumper cables, you can weld in the field.
A second battery means you can 'Lend' a battery to a piece of equipment the jumper cables didn't work on.

Tape or zip tie a tow/pull cable against your jumper cables, always handy when you need it and the cables don't get tangled.

If you make jumper cables, at least the length of your vehicle & some extra.
This allows you to back up to, or pull in behind another vehicle to start it.

Positive & negative cables never the same length.
Off setting the clamps keeps them from shorting out against each other.

If you have a 'Handy Man' or 'High Lift' jack, weld a 1" drive to 1/2" drive adapter to the handle.
If you can't find a 1" to 1/2", then 3/4" drive to 1/2" drive adapter.
This makes for a 'Breaker Bar'/'Cheater Bar' they will break about any bolt/nut loose that's always handy.

A good quality, long shank bolt in common sizes,
Use a Dremel tool and cut a couple slots straight up the threads.
Use these to clean out and 'Chase' threads in holes. 
The square edges from your slots will remove excess rust, sealers, dried grease/oil, etc. to an acceptable condition.
Slots in a good quality nut do the same thing for bolt threads.
It's no replacement for a tap & die set, but if you loose one it won't break the bank, and odd size or really large taps are quite expensive.

Ever need to pull a half shaft with CV joints out of a front wheel drive that simply will not cooperate?
Get some plastic coated steel cable, and a common nut both sides of the cable will slip through.
Make a choker around the inside CV joint, push the nut up against the shaft, and use a slide hammer on the other ends of the cable.
The nut bites into the plastic keeping your choker in place, the slide hammer let's you yank directly out on the half shaft and it will pop right out so easy you won't believe it.


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