# Advice on cleaning antique bridle



## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

I was given an antique driving bridle w/ blinds.

It might not actually be 100+ years old, but its old old old. 
My plans are to clean it up/restore it as much as possible and display it with my growing antique bit collection and antique horse picture collection. 


The leather is very very stiff, mildewed, cracked, and dented, the bit is rusted with the buckles severely rusted.

Ive wiped the leather down with a damp cloth to remove the dirt and mildew and am currently cleaning it with saddle soap. 
It has helped loosened up the leather, some, but as its drying its beginning to stiffen up again. 
Should I work the saddle soap into the cracks??

How many applications of saddle soap should be applied?
Is saddle soap enough or what should be applied to help the bridle become more flexible and help it last for years and years to come?
There are some dents on the blinders, any advice on helping reduce those?


Since the bit is removable Im going to soak it in vinegar and baking soda then clean it up with my rinky ---- dremel. 
I can still clean up the buckles with the dremel, but I know its not going to really clean it up like need be. I know its not going to ever be like it was, but some of them are barely flexible. 
Any advice on what I can use to help get those cleaned up a bit more??


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

*sigh* 
I just busted a leather loop trying to free a buckle. 
Anyone have any good advice on a hidden stitch for leather?


On top of those sort of repairs one side of the brow band the nail was so rusted it broke in two.
Someone tied string and the hole on the actual band has stretched to the point where its almost ripped. 
I was thinking instead of trying to pull the nail out and replace it, since the bridle is not going to be used again to go ahead and stitch it as well.
Any ideas on this repair?


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Here's what I'm working with


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## wr (Aug 10, 2003)

You need to get oil into the leather and if you happen to have any olive oil in your cupboard you can use it but it's likely going to take quite a bit.

I wouldn't try stitching the piece that broke until you condition it enough to be pliable.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

wr said:


> You need to get oil into the leather and if you happen to have any olive oil in your cupboard you can use it but it's likely going to take quite a bit.
> 
> I wouldn't try stitching the piece that broke until you condition it enough to be pliable.


Awesome! Thanks for the advice! I actually have a ton of olive oil around. 
Since I will be hanging it on the wall, after applying the oil, should I put it in the sun to help soak and dry?


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## wr (Aug 10, 2003)

SeaGoat said:


> Awesome! Thanks for the advice! I actually have a ton of olive oil around.
> Since I will be hanging it on the wall, after applying the oil, should I put it in the sun to help soak and dry?


I'd darned sure let it soak in for a while and it will likely take quite a bit but I'd likely set it outside to soak in and oil as needed.


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## jennigrey (Jan 27, 2005)

Pigeon wing bridle. Typically used on a mule.


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

Harness oil is generally used. Harnesses soaked in it come out pliable. But once leather has dried out, it loses its strength. Will still make a nice display. As a non-functioning display piece, you may be able to use some sort of glue to paste the broken piece back on.

I own a Calvary saddle with saddle bags, bridle and scabbard. Even a Calvary Training Book. Harness oil has kept it useable.


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## aoconnor1 (Jun 19, 2014)

I agree, soak it in oil.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

I used saddle soap and olive oil and am pleased with the results. 
The olive oil helped restore some of the flexibility. The leather is drinking it up very quickly.

Here's one of the blinders and a comparison of a quick clean up of the buckles. I like the rusted look, but i can imagine it's good for the longevity of the piece.

I'm wondering if it's the rust or the craftsmanship that has lead to the crude look of the buckles


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## jennigrey (Jan 27, 2005)

It's just corrosion that has caused the buckles to look crude. They are of pretty standard commercial fabrication. One way you can tell is that the buckles have rollers. The rollers are little cylinders of sheet metal that are stamped around the tongue bar and help the strap to slide more smoothly when it is being tightened. The roller saves wear on the strap. 

Buckles that might be handmade or crudely cast won't have rollers.


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## jennigrey (Jan 27, 2005)

Here's my wall of mostly-unusable crusty retired driving bridles, above the door in my feed room. I have a fondness for the pigeon wing ones.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

jennigrey said:


> It's just corrosion that has caused the buckles to look crude. They are of pretty standard commercial fabrication. One way you can tell is that the buckles have rollers. The rollers are little cylinders of sheet metal that are stamped around the tongue bar and help the strap to slide more smoothly when it is being tightened. The roller saves wear on the strap.
> 
> Buckles that might be handmade or crudely cast won't have rollers.


Do you know how to date bits? 

I like your collection!


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## jennigrey (Jan 27, 2005)

Used to but now I'm married.

:drum:

No, sorry. That bar mouth snaffle on your bridle is pretty generic.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

jennigrey said:


> Used to but now I'm married.
> 
> :drum:
> 
> No, sorry. That bar mouth snaffle on your bridle is pretty generic.


I have a couple more. I've I know is older. It kinds like it say at the bottom of the sea is so rusted and corroded


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