# Ideas for interior cabin walls



## HilltopDaisy (Feb 26, 2003)

If you could start from scratch, what would you use on your interior walls, and why? I'm thinking of sheet rock, or paneling, or finished boards, etc. I'm after a rustic/cabin feel. 

I think sheet rock is out, for several reasons ~ it's heavy and I think I'd have a very tough time with it, plus I don't care for the look. 

I found some unfinished birch paneling at Lowe's, and I love it, but it's close to $40 per 4'x8' sheet. Can you nail paneling up right over insulation? The wall studs are 16" apart.

Another thought was plain boards, but I wonder about the heat seeping through the space in between.

I'm open to any suggestions. Thanks.


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## Jennifer L. (May 10, 2002)

HilltopDaisy said:


> I found some unfinished birch paneling at Lowe's, and I love it, but it's close to $40 per 4'x8' sheet. Can you nail paneling up right over insulation? The wall studs are 16" apart.
> 
> Another thought was plain boards, but I wonder about the heat seeping through the space in between.
> 
> I'm open to any suggestions. Thanks.


You put up dry wall right over insulation, and I would think the paneling could be done the same way, but how stiff is it? You might not like a "bouncy" wall if you hit it between the studs. Or not. I don't know as I've never lived with paneling.

I don't think you'd like plain boards. You wouldn't want the insulation to be able to leak out. Could put up something like Tyvek or even just plastic behind them, though, to make it air tight.

Jennifer


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## TurnerHill (Jun 8, 2009)

Don't use plain boards. Get ship-lap or tongue-and-groove.

If this is for the shed you have been talking about, I'd pick something other than wood. Wood paneling makes a space seem smaller. If you're trying to live in a shed with wood walls, it's going to feel like a coffin.


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## oz in SC V2.0 (Dec 19, 2008)

We are planning to use plain boards throughout the house and paint them so there isn't an overwhelming feel of wood.

As to insulation leaking out,I guess it would depend upon what you used.
Regular kraft backed insulation couldn't leak out,I guess if a board REALLY shrank up it might show but that is what caulk is for.

Sheetrock is cheaper but to me I simply HATE it for walls or ceilings.


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## TurnerHill (Jun 8, 2009)

Great pictures.

HilltopDaisy, these pictures show what I am talking about. You can see how the natural pine in the second picture, which looks nice in that large space, might be oppressive in a very small space.

The painted ship-lap works a lot better in a small space.

Oz, can I ask why you would take the chance by using plain boards? Tongue-and-groove, and especially ship-lap, aren't meaningfully more expensive. And they'll look better from day one, and MUCH better than caulking.


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## MushCreek (Jan 7, 2008)

When we build our house, I'm going for a cottage look, and plan to use tongue and groove boards, painted light colors or white. I'm sick of drywall! Drywall is the fastest/easiest/cheapest, though.


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## oz in SC V2.0 (Dec 19, 2008)

TurnerHill said:


> Oz, can I ask why you would take the chance by using plain boards? Tongue-and-groove, and especially ship-lap, aren't meaningfully more expensive. And they'll look better from day one, and MUCH better than caulking.


We would prefer T&G but cost is our problem,we can get regular plank wood cheaper.
Shiplap is actually on the outside of our place and we had thought about using it inside but it seems it would be difficult to keep clean and to hang stuff as it is...well lapped.

I am actually hoping we don't have too much shrinkage of the boards...I might mention this to the builder actually.


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## TurnerHill (Jun 8, 2009)

Beadboard is another nice look. I prefer actual beadboard, not the paneling grooved to look like beadboard.

I've used beadboard painted a gloss white in several bathrooms. It is a real selling point. Looks really good in a cottage/country application.


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## TurnerHill (Jun 8, 2009)

oz in SC V2.0 said:


> We would prefer T&G but cost is our problem,we can get regular plank wood cheaper.
> Shiplap is actually on the outside of our place and we had thought about using it inside but it seems it would be difficult to keep clean and to hang stuff as it is...well lapped.
> 
> I am actually hoping we don't have too much shrinkage of the boards...I might mention this to the builder actually.


I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing.

Ship-lap is lapped, but it is lapped over a lip milled for the purpose. So it creates a perfectly flat surface that will be easier to keep clean that plain boards and just as easy to hang stuff on. It fact, it will LOOK like plain boards, but have some protection from the gap problem.

You sound like you are talking about something more like clapboard. Wind in Her Hair's first picture was ship-lap.


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## oz in SC V2.0 (Dec 19, 2008)

TurnerHill said:


> I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing.
> 
> Ship-lap is lapped, but it is lapped over a lip milled for the purpose. So it created a perfectly flat surface that will be easier to keep clean that plain boards and just as easy to hang stuff on. It fact, it will LOOK like plain boards, but have some protection from the gap problem.
> 
> You sound like you are talking about something more like clapboard. Wind in Her Hair's first picture was ship-lap.


What you are referring to sounds like something we would want,however it isn't what I was talking about(obviously),our outside is basically like this:








Although that isn't our place...


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## TurnerHill (Jun 8, 2009)

That's clapboard.

You can see shiplap here:

http://www.sawmilltimbers.com/html/lumber_patterns.html

Scroll down to the picture of the stairway.

Here's what the profile looks like:

http://www.simpoh.com/moulding.html


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## oz in SC V2.0 (Dec 19, 2008)

Not down here...

Is the siding you are referring to more like this?










Or this?


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## TurnerHill (Jun 8, 2009)

Right. The upper picture is called profiled ship-lap, and the bottom is your basic ship-lap.

You can see how the boards in that bottom picture would do a better job of keeping dust and insulation out than common boards.


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## oz in SC V2.0 (Dec 19, 2008)

I wouldn't mind either of those,I will ask the builder if the sawmill he uses has anything like that.


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## HilltopDaisy (Feb 26, 2003)

I love the look in the first of WIHH's pic, the one she painted "oatmeal". That's beautiful, and I never tire of looking at your home! Thanks!


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## Evons hubby (Oct 3, 2005)

I like Oak planks, inch thick, random width. but then thats just me. everyone has their own personal preferences. The dormers are yellow poplar plank and of course theres a few logs in our place too.


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## Bonnie L (May 11, 2002)

We have tongue & groove pine boards installed vertically. I would have liked what Yvonne's Hubby has, but pine was what we could afford. Dh tried to cut corners on an addition & didn't use sheet rock over the insulation - big mistake. Sheet rock would have kept more of the heat in & the cold out. He's actually thinking of redoing it.


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## oz in SC V2.0 (Dec 19, 2008)

I will ask the builder about it,I certainly don't want that to happen although he showed us a room done with regular planks in a barn(office/bathroom) that didn't have any problems like that.


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## Evons hubby (Oct 3, 2005)

Wind in Her Hair said:


> oz, I'd only you caution you against plain boards (no overlap) because of shrinkage and the gap it will cause between the boards. We had friends who did that, and in a years time, all you saw was the PINK  insulation *between* the cracks in their beautifull rustic home.  They were very disappointed.
> 
> Even grooved boards will shrink "some" but you won't have anything other than the underlying wooden "tongue" showing through the cracks. If you DO us eplain boards, I suggest putting alayer of something close to the color of your boards inderneat them -or even rolls of black roofing paper -anything but PINK!
> 
> Hilltopdaisy, we really love the painted ship lap walls, too. Over time, they simply age and patina a little more. The separations between the boards is a little more pronounced and the pine knot holes have begun to peek out -but thats one of the reason we chose wood instead of sheetrock -we love the "living" character of wood.


Yup, flat plank will shrink a mite if its not fairly well dryed before putting it up. I let my lumber air dry for several months inside a heated building prior to installing it. It still shank up a little, but not enough to bother. if you line up dead even with the crack and look really close you can see the paper behind them, but its pretty much tan color and goes unnoticed. I was in a hurry in the utility room, and put up a bunch of "green" yellow poplar planks, within a month they had 1/2 to 3/4 inch gaps. I will go over those with batton strips one of these days when I have everything else done.


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## Evons hubby (Oct 3, 2005)

Bonnie L said:


> We have tongue & groove pine boards installed vertically. I would have liked what Yvonne's Hubby has, but pine was what we could afford. Dh tried to cut corners on an addition & didn't use sheet rock over the insulation - big mistake. Sheet rock would have kept more of the heat in & the cold out. He's actually thinking of redoing it.


I used what I had, no way could I afford to buy expensive store bought pine! LOL! I had Oak logs, had them milled up, then air dryed the lumber for about 6 months, then put it in a heated building to finish drying for another couple months. Ran it through my planer and nailed it up. It cost me 18Â¢ per board foot for the milling fee and a lot of sweat.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

Vertical shiplap like used extensively in first half 20th century is nice. Knotty pine for some reason was what most went for. Cheap back then. Not cheap now. No natural wood is very cheap anymore unless you can process your own trees.

Lowes carries what they call "beadboard" I think, comes in 4x8 panels and not some flimsy fakey stuff. Looks lot like the old shiplap. And not super cheap but last time I looked two or three years ago wasnt outrageous priced either.

And give some thought to regular old OSB board like used to sheath outside of buildings. If you take lot care putting it up to keep edges looking nice and neat and if you can get the red and blue lines sanded off it, then couple coats polyurethane would give nice effect. I never tried but guess if you couldnt get the red and blue sanded off, you could prime and paint it, give interesting texture. 

I hate drywall, but each to their own, most people seem to love the stuff.

I would personally prefer natural stone as in a solid stone house or logs as in a real log cabin, but thats me and you arent building that kind of structure. I havent done it, but still intend to replace my shack with a solid native stone house. I have LOTS of fieldstone. Lot work for a single person alone though. But gotta force myself sooner than later or they will implement/enforce their building codes and permits even out here in boonies and prohibit me doing things my way with all natural materials. I dont like jumping through hoops to please some busybody politicians and buisinesspeople, when its me that will be living in it. When I'm gone dont much care if some fool figures he has to tear it down and put up a synthetic mcmansion.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

Hmm, just thought, you might look at various wood flooring. Get a solid hardwood feel though its just these little thin strips with hardwood veneer anymore. You'd have to back it with plywood, osb, or something solid to nail to. Even if too pricey at regular stores, maybe looked for odd lots of discontinued versions of it. If you are creative, can see that having possibilities even if you have to mix and match odd lots of discontinued designs.

Oh and dont forget you can apply tile with mastic adhesive. Look at some of the more rustic floor tile to use on the walls, doesnt have to look like a shiny tile public restroom, LOL. And if you shop around definitely can get odd lots of cheap floor tile.


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## crobar (Sep 20, 2006)

you might look into torn paper wallpapering. Using brown building paper and either wallpaper glue or watered down Elmers glue. I painted brown paper off white, then tore it pieces, pasted it on the ceiling of my office (well actually it's partially done). I don't always like it, but I get lots of compliments. Claims are made it will stick to drywall, osb, old plaster, concrete blocks, basement walls with no treatment (taping) of joints. Easy, cheap, lots of info online.


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## HilltopDaisy (Feb 26, 2003)

Really cool how all my coworkers are online, looking at Amish sheds as possible housing :rock: !

The walls need to have some R value (does that make sense??). I understand sheet rock is great, but I don't think I can handle 50-60 pound pieces/sheets for this project. I will use R-13 pink stuff in the walls, but I'd like the interior walls to go up fairly easily. 

Thanks for all of your suggestions!


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## glazed (Aug 19, 2006)

We are going with an earthen plaster over lattice. The wall ends up with a very soft and pretty, old-world stucco look.

And it's dirt cheap!

Oh ... shredded newspapers for insulation ... along with shredded t-shirts and sheets, etc.


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## tamsam (May 12, 2006)

We used osb and painted it with oil base paint. Everyone likes it as it has a straw look to it. We laid it down so the seams go across the wall instead of up and down and used a strip as a banistor [sp} rail. Also saw one that was stained and it was very nice. Good luck in whatever you choose. Sam


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## pheasantplucker (Feb 20, 2007)

When I built my place, a friend who grew up in a log cabin suggested I go with drywall for interior walls, as she said she felt growing up, there was too much wood, and little colour. I took her advice. Most of my exterior walls, are of course log, but interior walls are sheetrock. I'm glad I accepted her advice. I like how bright and cheerful my place looks.


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## cc-rider (Jul 29, 2003)

Beautiful home, Pheasantplucker!

I'm intending on using the "cottage planking" from our local big box store. I bought probably 80 packages of it when it was buy 1 get one free. I'm like you, HilltopDaisy...I can't lift anything heavy myself, but I can handle a single pine plank!!! Might take me longer, but I'll "get-er-dun"! 

I may use something different for a few of the interior walls, so it doesn't look so "woody" all over since the walls, ceiling and floors will all be wood. Maybe that torn paper idea, over something cheap. OSB, maybe. Since I've got huge, soaring ceilings (salt-box), I'm not too worried about it looking like a coffin.

I'm even going to use some HT's advise and just live with my subflooring for awhile until I can afford decent wood flooring. I'm planning on giving them a few coats of paint, and then faux painting them. Some will be "slate tiles" and some will be "old planking". Hehe.


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## PhilJohnson (Dec 24, 2006)

Lots of good ideas, may have to borrow a few from here for my own house


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

HilltopDaisy said:


> Really cool how all my coworkers are online, looking at Amish sheds as possible housing :rock: !
> 
> The walls need to have some R value (does that make sense??). I understand sheet rock is great, but I don't think I can handle 50-60 pound pieces/sheets for this project. I will use R-13 pink stuff in the walls, but I'd like the interior walls to go up fairly easily.
> 
> Thanks for all of your suggestions!


I dont like sheet rock, but in case you are just avoiding it cause of dealing with 4x8 sheets, you can cut it up in as small a chunks as you want such as 2ft by 4ft if that is what it takes for you to easily work with it. It just means you have to do more taping and mudding cause you will have more seams. Sheet rock is easy to cut up, you just score it in straight line, snap it, and cut the cardboard on backside of the break to free it. I guess you could cut it with circular saw but you better have mask and goggles to protect you from clouds of dust. And I have heard of Chinese drywall making it into USA with some not so nice chemicals in it so be wary of that.

And personally if I were going to build new stick building, I would double wall it, staggering 2x4s so I could get foot of fiberglass in floor, walls, and roof. And it would be very tight with appropriate size air to air heat exchanger. Its called super insulation construction (foam is better but more expensive) and its amazing how little heat it takes. 

Knew a person locally that had cabin like this and totally heated it with simple little electric space heater like you buy at Wally World. You had to be careful to not over heat the house with it in the dead of winter. She didnt have the air to air heat exchanger so her house got very stuffy. That was only mistake she made.


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## roachhill (Jul 8, 2009)

Have you considered board and batten, the Amish use it to avoid the cost of tongue and groove. Then you can use standard boards without the worry of shrinkage or gaps. It's also easy to install no real skill needed. It's just to rustic for most people. If you have access to an Amish lumber mill it cuts wood cost in half.


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