# Wrapping soap?



## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

Would like to know what you wrap your soap in? When I take mine to craft fair I would like folks to see it because I'm going to put butterflies and frogs in the soap. How far in advance can I make the soap and it still keeps the smell well? Thanks brenda


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Brenda, I think a lot of M&P are wrapped with plastic wrap.

Edited to add: when selling them at your craft fairs, do be fair to real soapmakers and do not try to compare M&P bars with soap. Most likely your M&P base is NOT soap!

M&P glycerin bars are beautiful in the own right and techniques can be done with M&P that is a lot harder to do with real soap, so PLEASE, play up your positives of your creations, but PLEASE do not call them soap ....


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

MullersLaneFarm said:


> Brenda, I think a lot of M&P are wrapped with plastic wrap.
> 
> Edited to add: when selling them at your craft fairs, do be fair to real soapmakers and do not try to compare M&P bars with soap. Most likely your M&P base is NOT soap!
> 
> M&P glycerin bars are beautiful in the own right and techniques can be done with M&P that is a lot harder to do with real soap, so PLEASE, play up your positives of your creations, but PLEASE do not call them soap ....


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thank you for the wrap info.. If you don't call it soap what would it be? I plan to list all ingredients I just got a bunch of dyes and soap products from the company I COMPLAINED ABOUT. Any info would be great.. Ok If I decide to do goats milk soap how can I do it without lye? Thanks Brenda :shrug:


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## beaglady (Oct 7, 2002)

thefarm said:


> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> If you don't call it soap what would it be? I plan to list all ingredients I just got a bunch of dyes and soap products from the company I COMPLAINED ABOUT.


The manufacturer should be able to provide a list of ingredients for the base you are using. Most likely, it is a synthetic detergent (syndet) product. If the 
ingredients include sodium lauryl sulfate, its a detergent based product. 

If your ingredient list reads like this, you can call it 'glycerine soap'. Just don't mislead anyone into thinking you made it from scratch. 

INCI Ingredients: Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Palmate, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Glycerin, Water, Sorbitol, Sorbitan Oleate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Titanium Dioxide.



> Ok If I decide to do goats milk soap how can I do it without lye?


 You can't, unless you use goats milk melt & pour base. 

http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapmakingbasics/ss/basicmeltpour_2.htm
This link has some info that may answer your questions on 'how to' put decorations into your soaps. Have fun, experiment, and don't push yourself to start selling until you're ready to talk with the most inquisitive customer about your ingredients.


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

beaglady said:


> The manufacturer should be able to provide a list of ingredients for the base you are using. Most likely, it is a synthetic detergent (syndet) product. If the
> ingredients include sodium lauryl sulfate, its a detergent based product.
> 
> If your ingredient list reads like this, you can call it 'glycerine soap'. Just don't mislead anyone into thinking you made it from scratch.
> ...


This is what the company gave me for ingredients
propylene-glycol,sorbitol,water.sodium sterate,sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium myristate, SOdium Cocoyl Isethionate, Trethanolamine.


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

I forgot to thank you for the link..brenda


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

To borrow a phrase:

"No Lye, No Soap, No Lie"


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

I actually had the manager at otion (brambleberry) tell me there are a lot of people out there passing M&P for CP. I just can't see that. He was trying to tell me it's the same - but it's NOT!!!

Just out of curiousity why don't you want to use lye? It's really not as scary as most people think. Just take the proper precautions be sure you do things in the right order (add lye to water and the the lye/water mix to oils) and you will be fine. And the finished product is so much nicer!

Of course you can't get the pretty clear bars - but you can get some pretty fabulous swirls!

Bethany
www.capellasgarden.com


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Bethany,
You can get clear CP. oh my, it's been at least 5 years since I did this and I don't have the specifics in front of me so I'm going by memory.

You HP the soap, then add alcohol & cook some more, skimming the foam from the top. High percentages of tallow & lard in the recipe give the clearest soaps.

I've seen some M&P (with additives that gets rid of the 'clear-ness' of M&P) that folks have tried to pass as CP


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

MullersLaneFarm said:


> To borrow a phrase:
> 
> "No Lye, No Soap, No Lie"


That is CUTE~ but could it be folks :shrug: like you that put down M&P thats why there aren't too many folks on this board?
brenda


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

kidsngarden said:


> I actually had the manager at otion (brambleberry) tell me there are a lot of people out there passing M&P for CP. I just can't see that. He was trying to tell me it's the same - but it's NOT!!!
> 
> Just out of curiousity why don't you want to use lye? It's really not as scary as most people think. Just take the proper precautions be sure you do things in the right order (add lye to water and the the lye/water mix to oils) and you will be fine. And the finished product is so much nicer!
> 
> ...


I can't use lye because I have lung problems and I have to be very careful with scents -chemicals and lots of other stuff.brenda


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

Good to hear from you via PM Brenda. 

With the exception of the lye, CP has less chemicals than MP. Once saponification happens there is no lye, there is no oils, it's just soap. And you can always make yours without fragrance (I make an OMH without fragrance that is lovely). I have not had problems with lye fumes when I mix it - only with Potassium hydroxide for LS. But I don't hover over the bowl either. I usually mix it an arms distance away.

I don't think that Cyndi means harm by her comments. She has always been very helpful on this and the other boards on HT and is a leader when it comes to teaching CP. but what she said is true. Many a MPer has given CP soap a bad name by passing MP off as CP. It is not the same. there is a reason why it is so much easier to do MP than CP. I have had many people tell me they can't handle handmade soap - makes them itch, etc. And it turns out is was MP. But there are Many who do love it so there is a place for it. Just don't try to make it what it isn't.

Bethany


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## beaglady (Oct 7, 2002)

thefarm said:


> This is what the company gave me for ingredients
> propylene-glycol,sorbitol,water.sodium sterate,sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium myristate, SOdium Cocoyl Isethionate, Trethanolamine


The base you have is a synthetic detergent type. It may make a pretty product, and be fun to work with, but it has basically the same ingredients as commercial shampoos designed to remove oil from your hair, so they're not going to be especially kind to your skin. If you want to continue working with M&P, you may want to look for a base that is mostly soap. The one I listed in the earlier post came from www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com and it isn't too bad on the skin. 

One thing I've found when selling soap at craft shows is that I can count on the occasional customer who will read the ingredient list and question me on each ingredient, and why it's in there. Really. So, for me, I wouldn't want to explain ingredients like Triethanolamine, so I would avoid products that contain that kind of thing. FYI, it's made by Dow Chemical, and used here to react with fatty acids to make soaps. It can also be used as a wetting agent in herbicides, and in photographic developer. 

Food for thought...


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## Tater'sPa (Jun 27, 2002)

> Edited to add: when selling them at your craft fairs, do be fair to real soapmakers and do not try to compare M&P bars with soap. Most likely your M&P base is NOT soap!


This is a big point to be made....most of the juried shows I do now are pretty good about catching the difference.
At the Farmers market I attended most of this year there was one local who sold fresh eggs, pork products and "Homemade Natural Soap" "Made right on our farm with fresh goats milk!" Making claims to customers that there "homemade" soap contains "no lye" ....and it was all..every single bar was M&P
I must say I just grinned and let it all go even though she was selling a good bit at $4.50 a bar....I'm not one to raise a fuss but for those who asked about the other products or compared those to mine I did set them straight.
Now that also brings up the "organic meat and eggs" that person offers..... if they are deceiving people about the soap products....maybe the other stuff isn't so natural either :shrug:

M & P bars have there place, I know a lot of people enjoy them for many reasons. They're fun to make as well but it really bothers me when I here someone at a show or market saying they're homemade soap.
I've made and sold them myself along with the CP soaps but am slowly getting away from the MP's


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

kidsngarden said:


> Good to hear from you via PM Brenda.
> 
> With the exception of the lye, CP has less chemicals than MP. Once saponification happens there is no lye, there is no oils, it's just soap. And you can always make yours without fragrance (I make an OMH without fragrance that is lovely). I have not had problems with lye fumes when I mix it - only with Potassium hydroxide for LS. But I don't hover over the bowl either. I usually mix it an arms distance away.
> 
> ...


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thank you I didn't know that.. I'm trying to figure all this out. Being new to this its hard.. OK what is CP cold Pack? I'm guessing here. Then how would I get started on CP if I don't have goats milk? thanks Brenda


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

beaglady said:


> The base you have is a synthetic detergent type. It may make a pretty product, and be fun to work with, but it has basically the same ingredients as commercial shampoos designed to remove oil from your hair, so they're not going to be especially kind to your skin. If you want to continue working with M&P, you may want to look for a base that is mostly soap. The one I listed in the earlier post came from www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com and it isn't too bad on the skin.
> 
> One thing I've found when selling soap at craft shows is that I can count on the occasional customer who will read the ingredient list and question me on each ingredient, and why it's in there. Really. So, for me, I wouldn't want to explain ingredients like Triethanolamine, so I would avoid products that contain that kind of thing. FYI, it's made by Dow Chemical, and used here to react with fatty acids to make soaps. It can also be used as a wetting agent in herbicides, and in photographic developer.
> 
> Food for thought...


Thank you I have so much to learn.. BRenda


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

Tater'sPa said:


> This is a big point to be made....most of the juried shows I do now are pretty good about catching the difference.
> At the Farmers market I attended most of this year there was one local who sold fresh eggs, pork products and "Homemade Natural Soap" "Made right on our farm with fresh goats milk!" Making claims to customers that there "homemade" soap contains "no lye" ....and it was all..every single bar was M&P
> I must say I just grinned and let it all go even though she was selling a good bit at $4.50 a bar....I'm not one to raise a fuss but for those who asked about the other products or compared those to mine I did set them straight.
> Now that also brings up the "organic meat and eggs" that person offers..... if they are deceiving people about the soap products....maybe the other stuff isn't so natural either :shrug:
> ...


`````````````````````````````````````````````
I understand what you are saying because I've done farmers market with plants and veggies.. I would list everything I was to sell I feel its only right and fair.. ANd if I do MP I will list it as that .. Thanks BRenda


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## Jen H (Jun 16, 2004)

CP = cold process. There are a couple of ways to make soap and they roughly fall into either cold process or hot process.

In the cold process method, the lye solution is mixed with room temperature oils and the heat created by saponification drives the reaction.

In the hot process method, the lye solution and oils are mixed and then cooked, either in a crock pot, oven, or on the stove, until the saponification is complete. Then the hot soap is glopped into the mold to cool off. (it's kind of jelly like, not nice and liquid)

Cold process soap comes out very smooth. Once you get used to the process it's easy to do swirls and embeds. Hot process soap has a more rustic, rough texture to it. It's ready to use as soon as it cools off and hardens up, instead of the couple weeks it takes for cold process soap to get mild. Both types of soap benefit from "curing", or being left out to air dry for several weeks before being wrapped and used.

As far as the lung problems, I have chronic asthma and use an organic fumes mask when I make soap. I used to use a respirator, but the fume mask works like a charm. Just look for one rated for paint and organic pesticides.

I don't think it's a matter of melt and pour being looked down on. Just about every soap maker I know has played around with melt and pour. I know some people who are true artists with it (I'm definitely not one of them). It's just a very different product from soap.


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

Jen H said:


> CP = cold process. There are a couple of ways to make soap and they roughly fall into either cold process or hot process.
> 
> In the cold process method, the lye solution is mixed with room temperature oils and the heat created by saponification drives the reaction.
> 
> ...


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Thank you Jen you explained alot.. I don't understand the lanuage but I will learn. I didn't want the whole homestead today know that I have a memory problem as well. There it's out for the whole world to see.. That is another reason why HB didn't want me to make CP and I didn't know there was a difference between cold and hot.. I way too much to learn.. My nitch is aprons I only wanted to make a few bars for stocking stuffers to fill the table..Thanks..Brenda


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

:shrug: Oh Jen I didn't know you could make soap in a crock pot I would like to know more about that? thanks Brenda


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## Jen H (Jun 16, 2004)

I've never used that method myself - I hot process in the oven, but primarily cold process my soap. Hopefully someone who has done that will weigh in?

With the rest of the language; saponification  is the chemical reaction that turns lye and oils into soap. Embeds are the little goodies or bits of different colored soap you bury in the main soap to make fun shapes or surprises - like rubber duckies in melt and pour bars or soap balls in solid colored bars of soap. Curing is leaving the fresh new bars of soap out on a rack open to the air to dry out and get more mild. Trace is a state the soap batter goes through that looks kind of like thin pudding.

Not a single person knows everything about everything. Don't feel bad at all about asking questions. That's how all of us learn.


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

Jen H said:


> I've never used that method myself - I hot process in the oven, but primarily cold process my soap. Hopefully someone who has done that will weigh in?
> 
> With the rest of the language; saponification  is the chemical reaction that turns lye and oils into soap. Embeds are the little goodies or bits of different colored soap you bury in the main soap to make fun shapes or surprises - like rubber duckies in melt and pour bars or soap balls in solid colored bars of soap. Curing is leaving the fresh new bars of soap out on a rack open to the air to dry out and get more mild. Trace is a state the soap batter goes through that looks kind of like thin pudding.
> 
> Not a single person knows everything about everything. Don't feel bad at all about asking questions. That's how all of us learn.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thank you! I plan to put butterflies and frogs in.. I didn't know it was called embeds makes sense.. You been a big help..Brenda


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## Jen H (Jun 16, 2004)

I just noticed that Cyndi at Muller's Lane Farm has an article on hot process soap done in the crock pot on her site.

http://www.mullerslanefarm.com/cphpmilksoap.html


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## Puddin (Mar 31, 2003)

Thanks for that link Jen....
I'm a lurker on this board. I generally do CP soaps.
Gloria


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## Puddin (Mar 31, 2003)

Sorry, my intent was to answer the orginal question! Sheesh, I'm easily distracted!
I buy the plastic shrink wrap they sell in Home Depot to cover windows and patio doors during the winter to wrap my soaps in. I cut the shrink wrap to size, glue it around the soaps with a glue stick. Then heat it up with a hair dryer. An easy easy way to cover my soaps. The wrap molds perfectly around the soaps. I either put the label between the soap and wrap, or I glue it to the outside of the wrap. 
Gloria


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

thefarm said:


> That is CUTE~ but could it be folks :shrug: like you that put down M&P thats why there aren't too many folks on this board?
> brenda



Brenda, show me where I 'put down' M&P?? By stating that M&P is NOT soap is not a 'put down', just the truth. I feel it is a great injustice to soap makers when M&Per's try to pass their creations as 'soap'.

Since 1999, I've had potential customers tell me they won't buy ANY homemade soap because of experiences they've had with other homemade soap - some of these soaps they've used have been M&P, some have been poorly made CP/HP. To those folks, I give a free bar of my milk soaps - The vast majority have become steady customers.

I give lessons on soapmaking to local folks. Some soapmakers won't do that because they're afraid of competition. I figure if someone wants to make soap, they will. I'd rather they understand the process behind what makes a _good_ soap. So far, it has not hurt my business at all

There are some very artistic things you can do with M&P that can not be done with CP/HP soap. I applaud many M&P soapers because of their beautiful creations.

I dislike the crafters that try to pass M&P as soap as much as I dislike the soapers that feel they have to criticize other soapers who, let's say, like to use lard & tallow in their soaps.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Jen H said:


> I just noticed that Cyndi at Muller's Lane Farm has an article on hot process soap done in the crock pot on her site.
> 
> http://www.mullerslanefarm.com/cphpmilksoap.html


this was my one time venture into CPHP (crock pot hot processing) so I figured I'd better chronicle it!!

I had been told that you _couldn't_ make a full milk soap using a HP (hot processing) method without your soap being a dark brown.

I have a hard time passing up anything that someone tells me i _can't_ do!! Since I successfully make very light milk soap using CP (cold process), I thought I would transfer some of that technique to the CPHP method.

Still can't convince me to go permanently to the 'hot side' of soap making, but I did enjoy that experiment, if only to say that Yes, you can successfully make light colored HP using only milk as the liquid.


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

Jen H said:


> I just noticed that Cyndi at Muller's Lane Farm has an article on hot process soap done in the crock pot on her site.
> 
> http://www.mullerslanefarm.com/cphpmilksoap.html


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Thank you I will check it out..Brenda


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

MullersLaneFarm said:


> Brenda, show me where I 'put down' M&P?? By stating that M&P is NOT soap is not a 'put down', just the truth. I feel it is a great injustice to soap makers when M&Per's try to pass their creations as 'soap'.
> 
> Since 1999, I've had potential customers tell me they won't buy ANY homemade soap because of experiences they've had with other homemade soap - some of these soaps they've used have been M&P, some have been poorly made CP/HP. To those folks, I give a free bar of my milk soaps - The vast majority have become steady customers.
> 
> ...


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Well let me put it this way !! You haven't said too much good about M&P we all have our reasons what we choose and I see this one is not your choice and not all folks would pass it on as REAL SOAP as I'm learning..Thank you..Brenda


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

HP just is not my thing either! The bars are soft and shrink terribly over time and I don't like that I can't get the bar as pretty as my CP's. I too using 100% GM can get a pretty darn close to white CP bar even without TD!

But as I am preparing all my last minute stuff for holiday shows HP is looking better and better!

I do use the crockpot for my liquid soaps. The paste cooks for about 18 hours and my soap is amber, but it still sells! I just tell people, "If you want the good milk in it, it's gonna caramelize and be amber - can't change that!" I fragrance it with almond or patch or sugar and spice, etc so it "fits" the color.

Bethany


MullersLaneFarm said:


> this was my one time venture into CPHP (crock pot hot processing) so I figured I'd better chronicle it!!
> 
> I had been told that you _couldn't_ make a full milk soap using a HP (hot processing) method without your soap being a dark brown.
> 
> ...


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

Puddin said:


> Sorry, my intent was to answer the orginal question! Sheesh, I'm easily distracted!
> I buy the plastic shrink wrap they sell in Home Depot to cover windows and patio doors during the winter to wrap my soaps in. I cut the shrink wrap to size, glue it around the soaps with a glue stick. Then heat it up with a hair dryer. An easy easy way to cover my soaps. The wrap molds perfectly around the soaps. I either put the label between the soap and wrap, or I glue it to the outside of the wrap.
> Gloria


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Don't feel alone GLoria I get distracted as well.. That sounds like a really good idea and I bet you can get several bars done up..Thanks Brenda


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

thefarm said:


> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Well let me put it this way !! You haven't said too much good about M&P we all have our reasons what we choose and I see this one is not your choice and not all folks would pass it on as REAL SOAP as I'm learning..Thank you..Brenda


That's because I don't use M&P. I can only tout it's wonders in the way I've experienced it, and that has been pictures of wonderful creations that folks have made. 

I apologize if I've stepped on your toes. I've tried to be helpful to you with your venture into this realm.


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## BasicLiving (Oct 2, 2006)

Cyndi - you have always been very helpful to me, even with all my dumb questions. Your website is wonderful and full of lots of great information. You and your website are really what started me to make my own soaps. Thank you! I was going to write that in a PM to you, and maybe I should have, but I feel you deserve some recognition for your contributions, so I wanted to say thank you publicly. You are truly a blessing.

As for wrapping, I have not yet really wrapped my soaps. I tie twine around them and put a hard stock paper tag on them describing what they are and what they are made of. I've been told they look simple and elegant at once.

I am thinking about trying that shrink wrap method that Puddin mentioned though....... 

Penny


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## Tater'sPa (Jun 27, 2002)

Puddin said:


> Sorry, my intent was to answer the orginal question! Sheesh, I'm easily distracted!
> I buy the plastic shrink wrap they sell in Home Depot to cover windows and patio doors during the winter to wrap my soaps in. I cut the shrink wrap to size, glue it around the soaps with a glue stick. Then heat it up with a hair dryer. An easy easy way to cover my soaps. The wrap molds perfectly around the soaps. I either put the label between the soap and wrap, or I glue it to the outside of the wrap.
> Gloria


Gloria, that's a swell idea but have you ever tried the shrink wrap bags?
Shrink wrap bags from WSP You just bag, tape back the open end and hit with a heat gun...or a hair dryer (one dedicated to just shrink wrap  )
I use something similar to these bag for my spa salt bars, the rest of my soaps are wrapped with an industrial type of food service film (like saran wrap)


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

MullersLaneFarm said:


> That's because I don't use M&P. I can only tout it's wonders in the way I've experienced it, and that has been pictures of wonderful creations that folks have made.
> 
> I apologize if I've stepped on your toes. I've tried to be helpful to you with your venture into this realm.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Yes you have been very helpful.. Thank you ! You have opened my eyes of what soap making is all about..Brenda


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

BasicLiving said:


> Cyndi - you have always been very helpful to me, even with all my dumb questions. Your website is wonderful and full of lots of great information. .
> 
> I am thinking about trying that shrink wrap method that Puddin mentioned though.......
> 
> Penny



Penny & Bethany, I do humbly thank you for your words. It really gives me the warm fuzzies.

I don't do this for accolades and am quite embarrassed when they come my way. 

There are so many arts & crafts & parts of our lifestyle that is going by the wayside. Paul & I are just doing our parts to keep it alive.

As for the shrink wrap... I love the cigar band shrink wrap that I get from MMS


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## thefarm (May 11, 2002)

MullersLaneFarm said:


> Penny & Bethany, I do humbly thank you for your words. It really gives me the warm fuzzies.
> 
> I don't do this for accolades and am quite embarrassed when they come my way.
> 
> ...


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Could you please tell me what cigar band shrink wrap that I get from MMS do you have a picture of it? thanks brenda


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

I use the MMS shrink bands also. - but for melt and pour they will not work as they are open at the ends and MP likes to be fully wrapped.

Here is the link:
http://www.thesage.com/catalog/ShrinkWrap.html
Scroll down and you will find the soap shrink bands. I have large bars and use the dan's bands and they just barely fit!

Bethany


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## Wendy (May 10, 2002)

> Oh Jen I didn't know you could make soap in a crock pot I would like to know more about that? thanks Brenda


That's the only method I use & people love my soap. I also only use lard, goat milk, coconut oil, & lye. Lard makes wonderful soap! A little coconut oil gives it lather.

I wrap my soap with paper. It's the rolls of paper you buy for adding machines. It wraps the soap except for the ends. Put my label on the front & name/address label on the back. For the soaps I do that are shaped like hearts, goat heads, or flowers, I put them in shrink wrap. I use the bags. Much easier to work with.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

kidsngarden said:


> I use the MMS shrink bands also. - but for melt and pour they will not work as they are open at the ends and MP likes to be fully wrapped.


ooooooooo. Thanks!


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

thefarm said:


> Could you please tell me what cigar band shrink wrap that I get from MMS do you have a picture of it? thanks brenda


Brenda,
I have both sizes. I could put on of each in an envelope and snail mail them to you.

PM me if you're interested


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## fransean (Dec 21, 2002)

I started with liquid soap (probably will never do that again) and now make both hot process in the crockpot - mainly for the soap I use for laundry, and cold process - use this method for larger batches in my slab mold. I have made M&P in the past when I sold at craft fairs but my signage clearly stated "handmade and handcrafted soaps" and I did state the difference. I don't make M&P for myself.
I use soap boxes with a window cut out of them when I sell the CP with my label on the backside.

Bev


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## sapphira (Mar 24, 2003)

Bought some Lye soap today and here is the label that attracted me:

SOAP WRAPPED ENTIRELY IN CLEAR PLASTIC THAT FIT. ENDS WERE NOT COVERED BY LABEL AND ABOUT 1/3 INCH ON ALL LONG SIDES OF BAR WAS SEEABLE.
label is beige. Simple wrap was the actual label of paper that went all the way around soap.
front of soap bar:
GRANDMA'S LYE SOAP
(smaller caps) pure soap
(sides and back starting at one point next to front label 
Price code bar, weight, company, www.com, phone number, ingredients: lard, water and lye
"Grandma's Lye Soap" may ease skin discomfort (with regular bathing and washing)
"Grandma's Lye Soap" is (underlined-) pure mild soap with no additives or detergents.
What are you putting on your body?
Ordinary or even expensive soap(liquid or bar) may contain detergents or additives which may further irritate sensitive skin conditions like psoriasis, ECZEMA, or acne.
Use "GLS" and feel the difference in less than a week. Long lasting bar! Satisfaction guaranteed.
THINGS FOLKS USE IT FOR
(AND THIS really SOLD ME!)
bETTER THAN BLEACH ON DIRTY WHITE SOCKS AND CLOTHES: REMOVES STAINS! rUB ON AND WASH.
wASHING TIRED FEET IS VERY REFRESHING.
pUT A PIECE ON YOUR HOOK FOR cATFISH BAIT.
lATHER HIDES HUMAN SCENT FOR HUNTERS.
bEST FOR DIRTY MOUTHED KIDS!

pURE, mILD sOAP
(mAYBE gRANDMA HAD IT RIGHT TO START WITH)
(PRODUCT COPYRIGHT)

well - I screwed up my caps, but you get the idea. I am very very interested in trying this soap on stains. But my experience with pure lye soap in the shower on myself is that my skin becomes softer and I do not have a dry skin problem. I use dove and caress etc. and they do almost nothing to alleviate dry skin. I noticed the diff in three days ! Is a nice simple label with attractive writing and info in different sizes of print. You would have to get artistic with eye appeal and readability. The GRANDMA"S LYE SOAP was LARGE enough for me to see it as I wandered by without my glasses. If you put a tiny printed label on it - people - a lot of people - cannot read it and we will fly by in search of some other thing-a-ma-bob we had in mind or spied out while shopping. 
My two cents worth. Sapphira


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