# Rabbit breeding trouble again!



## MamaDee (May 10, 2006)

So I won't bore you with the long story of my worthless buck I just replaced....but to sum it up.....

Basically we've had a trio since January. Never had any luck with the buck...mounting from everywhere, never finishing his job, etc. Over the summer we took our does to a friend's buck and he bred them--so it's not the does. Unfortunately, they ignored the kits and they all died. Twice. Anyway....after calling the breeder about out buck and having the him tell me, "It's too cold, wait till it's warmer" or "Wait till the buck is older", or "Wait till it's not so hot" he finally agreed to give us another buck. (after 8 months with no kits).

So we brought the "slightly older, but proven" buck home 2 days ago. With doe number one he does the same thing the other buck did. Mount and try, but not finish. With doe number 2.....well, she chases and mounts him, but he doesn't even try to mount her.

I am so sick of trying to breed rabbits.....I don't know what else to do. Why can't I breed rabbits?!!!!!

Dee


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## MaggieJ (Feb 6, 2006)

There are some things you can try to make bucks and does more eager to breed. Some people swear by them while others look at them as old wives' tales. Feeding parsley, raspberry leaves and dandelions may help. Adding a couple of teaspoons of wheat germ or 5 - 6 drops of wheat germ oil to their daily ration may also be beneficial. A couple of tablespoons of apple cider vinegar per gallon of water is another thing you can try. The greens are all high in Vitamin A. The wheat germ supplies Vitamin E. The ACV is a general tonic for buns. You may want to try all of these for all your rabbits and then after ten days to two weeks try your own buck with the does again. These are NOT cure-alls, but should help to rule out lack of performance due to vitamin deficiency.

You know the does are fertile, even if they seem to lack mothering skills. Sometimes first and even second-time mothers are clueless. If your buck still does not do his job and your friend's buck is available, try breeding the does to him one more time. It's only an extra month to wait. If they are still clueless and the kit die, I'd have a big barbecue and start over with new stock from a different breeder.


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## SquashNut (Sep 25, 2005)

2 days ago is not long enough time for the buck to get used to his suroundings. He needs to be in a quaranteen for at least 2 weeks. If he looks healthy at that point , then a few days after he is moved near you does you could try again.
Some people even quarantine for a month. But i bet he is under stress just getting to know his new ownwers, yet alone getting to know your does too. Is it as hot there as it is here? You could try in the evening, that is what worked here this last cycle of breedings for me.


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## brody (Feb 19, 2009)

what breed are they?
how very frustrating for you ..

if dude 2 is proven I'd set the girls up close to him and let him get in the mood while you do some of the no harm diet things Maggie suggests 

if your does don't attack the buck I'd be tempted to back off a bit too - some bucks seem a little shy with an audience - I have been known to read a book and keep half an eye open 

if this trio doesn't work out I'd suggest a start over too - from a different breeder as well ... 8 months of waiting (soon to be 9) is a long wait in the rabbit world if everybody was (should have been) ready to go day 1!


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## vikav (Mar 30, 2009)

Mine always do that. This is very easy to handle. I just put the doe in the buck's cage, butt first, right at the entrance of the cage. I don't let go of her at any time, or I lose control of the situation. I put one hand under her belly as close to her butt as possible and comfortable for her, and lift her behind up a couple of inches for the buck to mount. The other hand is on the doe's back and neck. Wear long sleeves and thick gloves, in case they decide to shred or bite you. If she appears stressed out, I stroke her head from between her eyes to the ears, and she usually calms down. The buck usually starts walking around and sniffing her, and then pretty soon mounts her. I let him do his thing several times in a row, maybe 3 times. I still do not let go of the doe, holding her firmly. I take her out and put her back in her cage. If I have time, I repeat the whole procedure several hours later. 
This is forced mating, and that's what I always do to breed mine. My does are usually nasty and dominant towards the buck, especially since the buck's cage is pretty small, and he has nowhere to run, if a doe attacks him. I don't want him hurt, or castrated, so I force mate them, that way I'm always in control. The danger in this is you have a higher chance of breeding the doe when she is in the un-fertile part of her cycle, and not knowing it. When they mate on their own, you pretty much know if she is "not in the mood", as she'll keep her tail down. When you force mate them, you have no way of knowing. However, if you can not mate them at all otherwise, this would be a good solution.
BTW, if the buck is young and does not have much experience breeding, you don't want to let the does mount him too much, as he will be reluctant to breed afterward.
If you end up breeding them like this, you don't want to keep going if the doe starts to growl or scream. Mine make some noises, but if they start growling, I return them to their cage, so no one would get hurt.


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## MaggieJ (Feb 6, 2006)

SquashNut is right about giving the new buck more time to feel at home. I missed that he has only been with you a couple of days. And quarantine is always a good idea... just to be sure a new arrival is not carrying something that will spread to the others.


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## vikav (Mar 30, 2009)

MaggieJ said:


> SquashNut is right about giving the new buck more time to feel at home. I missed that he has only been with you a couple of days. And quarantine is always a good idea... just to be sure a new arrival is not carrying something that will spread to the others.


I agree with that too.


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## o&itw (Dec 19, 2008)

I am going to have to agree with Squashnut on this one. First of all, I know you are anxious to get things started with all the bad luck you have had, but you really do need to keep the buck seperate for a week or two to make sure he is not sick in any way. At least you got him form the same breeder, so he is likely OK if the first three were.

The really important thing here, is that he is a new rabbit in a stange place... he isn't "at home" so he is not realy concentrating on "at home" things. The problem here is not your does willingness to breed, it is that the buck does not feel comfortable yet in his new surroundings. Since you have already had him around your does, there is probably no reason to quarantine him now, but you do need to give him a week or two to get used to his new location and feel "at home" your rabbitry. I think in a week or so everything is likely to go well. I would not put him in a cage directly besides your does, if you don't have too, but put him in the same area. If he is directly beside the does, he can get intimidated by their attidtude, and that is exactly what you don't want. The problems with the does kindling is a different matter.....you need to take this a step at a time, we can help you with some ideas there after you get them bred.

I would encourage you to stick with it. It may be that your does are not going to be good mothers, but give them one more chance. It is often hard for a beginner. They usually start with unproven rabbits which may or may not be good animals. If the animals aren't working out you don't get the experience you need as to how things are when it is working correctly.

Those of us who have been raising rabbits, have gone through that, know what we should expect, and have other rabbits that are performing well, so we are not as offended when we get a new doe or buck and they have troubles. For new breeders, all the rabbits are unproven and it is much more disheartening until things finally start to "click"


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## bluebird2o2 (Feb 14, 2007)

Im dont know how heavy your buck is but bucks breed best when they are a little on the thin side.try cutting back his feed for a few days.breed in the evenings.


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## MamaDee (May 10, 2006)

O.K., thanks for your advice. I hate to give up at this point, having just got another buck. Buck number one just went to freezer camp, btw.

Anyway...the buck is kept near the girls, but not right next to them. So that's good. He may need more time to relax. The thing is, with the first doe, he went right for her......so does he need more time? The problem was he wasn't hitting the mark. Maybe she wasn't lifting up enough? In which case, a forced breeding would be in order. But probably after a week, to be sure he is ready for it?

And thanks for the diet info!

Dee


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## MaggieJ (Feb 6, 2006)

If your rabbits are not accustomed to greens, go easy at first... just a few sprigs of parsley or a couple of dandelion leaves at a time. Then just add a little more each day. Raspberry leaves should not cause problems and if you can find some plantain in the lawn (assuming you don't use chemicals) it is another good one.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plantago_major


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