# Sticky  The OFFICIAL "Weeds for Feed" Thread



## MaggieJ

James Dilley very bravely volunteered to lead off with his article on mesquite. He PM'd it to me, so I will copy it here for him. James, here's your reward: :icecream: and for going first:  :donut:

*Mesquite for Rabbit feed! *
By James Dilley

We all know that Mesquite makes food from the B B Q taste better, But how about as A high protein Rabbit feed, I have used The Honey mesquite to replace 25% of A rabbits feed ration.There are 3 Species of Mesquite trees/shrubs. There latin name is prosopis pubescens. The tree grows from Old Mexico To cali. All the way to Southwestern Utah! The Mesquite is A Legume, And grows where there is water with in 50' of the surface. They are A Deciduius tree.And in the summer 75% of A coyotes diet is Mesquite. The Native Americans used the beans in making Pinole It grows in Thickets, Up to 5,500 ft above sea level. I found some material on the Mesquite tree At:texas agrilife research and extension at uvalde texas. It was also know as Iron wood. Rabbits love the seed pods and leaves as well as smaller branches. The other types are Screwbean Mesquite and Velvet bean Mesquite. The trees grow up to 20' tall and the Tap root goes down twice that far. The trees grow almost anywhere. And yes they can have Nasty spines. Of course the feeds you feed can vary depending on where you live. Horses and other live stock readily eat the beans & leaves but A horse can Colic from to much. And I would caution any one wanting to feed Mesquite or Any other wild feeds ,PLZ make sure that the leaves ad such are NOT sprayed. as The chemical can kill the Rabbits. I was seeing litter sizes up to 8 Live bunnies per litter 4 times A year. I'll post A few more Plants from the South west as time Allows. Next Watch for South Texas Alfalfa. AKA Cactus!


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## Danaus29

Mulberry and feeding rabbits

There are 10 to 15 different species of mulberry. The most common are:
Morus alba, White Mulberry (originated in east Asia) which was brought to several countries for use as Silkworm food
Morus rubra, Red Mulberry (originated in North America)
Morus *****, Black Mulberry (originated in southwest Asia)

Mulberries are so widespread and prolific in North America that most people consider them a weed. The seeds are spread by birds, raccoons, foxes, and opposums, or by fruit falling on the ground. Mulberry can form either a small tree or a large bush. The single leaves have serrated (toothed) edges and vary widely in shape. The bark is smooth and has an orangish color. 

Rabbits eat leaves, bark, and tender twigs. Since this is my first season feeding Mulberry I have no information about the storage and use of dried leaves. The twigs and leaves I have used to date were produced in late spring and early summer. The leaves and young twigs were consumed quickly. Bark was eaten off larger branches by some of the rabbits but not all. Even youg babies were fed Mulberry with no problems. 

Berries and young twigs are edible for humans. Stalking the Wild Asparagus by Euell Gibbons has some recipies.

Can be a valuable supplement for rabbits. A study was done in Nigeria comparing comercially prepared feeds compared to plain mulberry and diets supplemented with mulberry leaves. There was no loss of weight or growth reduction in rabbits with diets of up to 50% mulberry leaves. http://www.pjbs.org/pjnonline/fin312.pdf

Studies show mulberry leaves can reduce the amount of bad cholesterol and body fat in rabbits and humans http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10993206

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mulberry
http://www.arnatural.org/forestry/champion_trees/white_mulberry.htm
http://www.na.fs.fed.us/pubs/silvics_manual/volume_2/morus/rubra.htm


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## Freeholder

ALFALFA, while technically not a weed, does grow like one on our lot! It's also something that almost anyone could plant around the edges of their garden, for instance, in order to have it available for their rabbits. 

Alfalfa, Medicago sativa, is a cool-season, perennial, flowering legume. In the UK it's called lucerne. The plants live from three to twelve years, depending on climate, but are adapted to most of the United States. It has trouble surviving the winters in the colder parts of Alaska, and needs more winter chill than some parts of the deep South get, but otherwise you can probably grow it! It can grow up to three feet high, and has a very deep root system, making it drought resistant, although in my semi-arid climate it does appreciate being watered once in a while. If you are going to plant it, you need to start with an area that hasn't grown alfalfa for several years, because of an issue called 'autotoxicity' -- alfalfa seeds won't grow among alfalfa plants. This is why farmers rotate alfalfa crops with other crops. It is one of the highest-yielding hay crops, with yields (from three cuttings) often in the four-tons per acre range. In some climates, such as parts of California, they can get up to sixteen tons per acre with irrigation! It should be pretty easy to get high yields when growing smaller amounts at one side of your garden!

Alfalfa has the root nodules common to many legumes, allowing it to fix nitrogen in the soil. This makes it a high-protein feed. It's also high in calcium, making it an excellent feed for nursing moms and growing kits. It can be used as pasture, and I do feed alfalfa fresh to my rabbits, but in fairly small quantities. They are still getting pellets. Too much fresh alfalfa has been known to cause bloat in ruminants, so I've been a little cautious about it with the rabbits. They do get some alfalfa hay, also, and really appreciate it both fresh and as hay. Since the main ingredient in rabbit pellets is usually alfalfa, there shouldn't be any down-side to feeding them alfalfa hay! 

If you want to grow your own alfalfa for hay, it's a good idea to get, and learn to use, a scythe. Scythes really aren't any more difficult, or any slower, to use than a weedeater -- and they are a lot quieter! You do have to keep them very sharp, though. 

Since I'm posting this from work, and have never had much luck posting pictures here anyway, I'm including a link to a Wikipedia article which has a photo: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfalfa

Kathleen


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## MaggieJ

Here is TerryW's report on Ox-Eye Daisy. Unfortunately I could not get the photo links to work, so I have added some that I found. (Sorry, Terry, I'm a technopeasant and must have done something to the link.)

Terry's link:
http://www.inmagine.com/inmsearch.p...rtby=0&morecd=&clarify=&clareng=off&magnify=1

http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/weedguid/oxeyed.htm

http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/ontweeds/oxeye_daisy.htm

http://www.illinoiswildflowers.info/weeds/plants/oxeye_daisy.htm

http://www.englishplants.co.uk/oxeye.html

http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/weedguide/singlerecord.asp?id=940



*Ox Eye Daisy: leucanthemum vulgare
*

*I found this plant to be quite interesting when I first took a close look at it. It does not have the leaf type that the 'Alaskan' or 'Shasta' daisies commonly found in our gardens.

As indicated in the UC article, Ox-Eye daisy is considered a WEED--- In other words; Some State Agricultural or Natural Resources Departments have declared a sort of 'war' on the plant, and want it eradicated. 

The plants in the Poultry yard were ignored by the young birds, and only the two youngest rabbits did any chewing on the daisy plants&#8212;AFTER they were knocked down and totally ignored by the older rabbits. They did not eat the flower stem- just the smaller leaves and the flower heads.

Looking in the neighboring pastures&#8212;even the goats and sheep seem to be avoiding this plant. Probably not a good idea to depend on this weed as a source of nutrition for our buns&#8212;high acid food is not good for the maintenance of gut flora. I would think that if a rabbit enjoys a flower head or two, go ahead, but don't let them make a whole meal of it. Avoid hays that have high concentrations of this plant in them&#8212;you would be wasting your money. *

Scientific name 
Leucanthemum vulgare 

Additional name information: 
Lam. 

Common name 
ox-eye daisy, marguerite, moon daisy, dog daisy 

Synonymous scientific names 
Chrysanthemum leucanthemum 

Closely related California natives 
15 

Closely related California non-natives: 
7 

Listed 
CalEPPC Red Alert,CDFA nl 

By: 
Maria Alvarez 

Distribution 

HOW DO I RECOGNIZE IT?
Distinctive features: 
Ox-eye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) is a prostrate herb with stems that sprout laterally from a creeping rootstock. When in flower, the plant's height ranges from one to three feet. The white-petaled flower-like inflorescences have yellow centers. Leaves are dark green on both sides, one to two inches long, smooth, and pinnately lobed or toothed. The number of flower stalks ranges from one to forty per plant.

Description: 
Asteraceae. Perennial herb. Stems: simple or branched and prostrate. Flower stems 1-3 ft (30-90 cm) tall. Leaves: entire to pinnately lobed or toothed along stems. Lower basal and middle leaves longer, <5 in (<12 cm), obovate to spoon-shaped, upper leaves borne along a stem, more oblong, sessile, and shorter. Petioles wingless. Inflorescence: each solitary flowerhead composed of numerous yellow disc flowers +/- 0.1 in (2.5 mm) and about 20 white ray flowers 0.7-0.8 in (18-20 mm) long. Fruit: flat seed 0.08 in (2 mm) long, 10-ribbed, dark gray at maturity with no pappus. Up to 200 seeds per flowerhead. Number of flower stalks ranges from 1-40 per plant (description from Hickman 1993, Anderson 1987).


WHERE WOULD I FIND IT? 
Ox-eye daisy is found in both the North Coast Range and northern Sierra Nevada from sea level bluffs and canyons to "alpine" mountain meadows to 7,000 feet (2200 m) and from central California into Oregon. It is also common from the northeastern seaboard through the Midwest. Ox-eye daisy is also a problem at Rocky Mountain National Park (USGS 1999). It is a common weed of disturbed areas such as roadsides, fields, and pastures and former homesteads (Cowell 1973, Peck 1993). It readily spreads into wildlands. Ox-eye daisy is found in a variety of plant communities including, prairie, scrub, wet meadows, riparian forests, and open-canopy forests. It thrives in a wide range of conditions and in full sun to semi-shade. Plants are shallowly rooted to three inches (7.5 cm) deep and tolerate a wide range of soil moisture conditions, but do particularly well in soils that are heavy and damp (Parsons 1992).

WHERE DID IT COME FROM AND HOW IS IT SPREAD? 
Ox-eye daisy is native to Europe (Polunin 1969). It was probably introduced to North America as an ornamental early in the twentieth century. It is currently used as an ornamental, and is it often sold commercially in seed packets labeled as wildflower seed. Ox-eye daisy spreads through abundant seed production and vegetatively by rooting underground stems (rhizomes) (Griswold 1985). Seeds have no special adaptations to aid dispersal, but are small and fall to the ground up to two meters from the parent plant. When the flowerheads are dry, the seeds drop or are shattered easily by touch or movement. Water, human and animal foot traffic, and cultivating and earth-moving machinery can carry seeds into new areas.

WHAT PROBLEMS DOES IT CAUSE? 
Ox-eye daisy displaces native plant species, growing so densely it excludes other vegetation. It is not known to be used as forage by animals in California. While not considered poisonous to cows, it does impart a disagreeable taste to their milk. Ox-eye daisy is a host for several viral diseases affecting crops, including the yellow dwarf virus of potatoes (Parsons 1992). It is difficult to control or eradicate because of its large seedbank, long viability of seed, and ability to resprout if not completely removed. 

HOW DOES IT GROW AND REPRODUCE? 
Ox-eye daisy is capable of reproduction the first summer after it becomes established, regardless of plant size. Plants one inch in diameter have been observed bearing a single flower. Stem growth is prostrate and creeping until development of erect flowering stalks one to three feet (30-90 cm) tall. Flowering commences in late spring (May) and continues until late summer (August). Seed production is prolific when water is adequate. Most ox-eye daisy seeds remain viable for twenty years in the soil, and can remain viable after passing through digestive tracts of animals (Parsons 1992). Seeds germinate continuously as long as there is adequate moisture, fall through late spring in coastal regions. Plant growth slows during periods of flowering and low water availability.


Seed germination is inhibited by continuous darkness but otherwise not affected by variation in light (Thompson 1989). Studies have indicated that ox-eye daisy seedling germination and frequency are greater under increased moisture in hollows versus ridges, but dense groundcover can prevent ox-eye daisy establishment (Reader 1991). 
(click on photos to view larger image)

Ox-eye daisy can grow year-round, and its lifespan is indeterminate. Maximum growth has been observed in coastal regions at onset of cool fall weather, through winter and spring, just before flowering stalks shoot up. Aerial growth dies back after seed release. Vegetative growth slows in summer during and after flowering (Cowell 1973). 

(Report too long to post as one piece. CONTROL METHODS follow.)


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## MaggieJ

OX-EYE DAISY (continued)

HOW CAN I GET RID OF IT? 
Little information has been published on mechanical, cultural, or biological control of ox-eye daisy. An important consideration is that seeds remain viable in soil for at least two years.
The first step in the control of ox-eye daisy is to develop a containment strategy. Removal methods will depend on environmental variables and the type of plant community infested. Primary methods of dispersal besides seed drop should be identified. If plants are growing along trails, shoes and hooves picking up seeds in wet soil may disperse them. People also pick the bright flowerheads, from which ripe seeds may fall as they hike through the region. Information about the daisies should be posted to alert wildland users. Small outlying populations should be treated first. 

Complete eradication of a large, well established, and geographically widespread population of ox-eye daisies can be difficult because of their small size and abundant seed production. Prolific seed set and the ability of rhizomes to resprout make successful removal dependent on appropriately timed treatment and persistent follow-up. Removal sites should be inspected before plants have set a new crop of seed in June. If the infestation is small it may be difficult to locate the previous year's removal site, so the site should be mapped and marked with colored flagging or pin flags, especially if follow-up will be done by someone else. If plants are mulched, the mulch will serve as an effective indication of the location of the infestation. It is much easier to locate daisies after flowering begins, which is typically by mid-June in coastal California populations.



Physical control: 
Manual methods: A combination of hand removal and mulching is used to control ox-eye daisy in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA). If the infestation is small (less than 0.25 acre) or widely scattered, hand removal may be efficient. Using a small hand pick, chip around the base of the plant several inches deep to loosen the plant. Then lift the entire plant out intact without leaving any stem pieces (rhizomes) behind. Check for rhizome fragments, since an entire plant can regenerate from them. A round-point shovel is effective for scooping out whole plants. If the soil is flat and compacted, a sharp garden spade can also be used to scrape the plant out of the soil. A hula hoe is also handy for scraping away abundant masses of seedlings or small plants. 

Mechanical methods: In Australia shallow cultivation of less than six inches (15 cm) was found to have little effect and was likely to spread roots. Cultivation greater than six inches in summer exposes roots to desiccation. Subsequent shallower cultivations kill seedlings. This technique opens the soil to infestation by other weeds and must be combined with dense revegetation with desirable seed (Parsons 1992). 

Mulching: The most successful non-chemical method found for removing large infestations in GGNRA is to mulch heavily. Habitat Restoration volunteers at the GGNRA have successfully eliminated masses of mature and immature plants through the application of rice straw. One application 3-4 in (7.5-10 cm) thick when compacted was successful in two plant communities in the Marin Headlands: coastal scrub and wetland. Straw should be applied in fall at the onset of the growing season. One bale will cover approximately 100 square feet. The site should be monitored in early spring. If any live plants are found under the straw, or any light can reach the soil, then another thick layer should be applied before flowering begins in May. Native perennial plants at the Marin Headlands site came up through the straw, while the ox-eye daisy did not. This is because ox-eye daisy is a prostrate plant except for its flower stalks. Ox-eye daisy was observed to rot under the dense mulch maintained throughout the winter. If the infested area has a lot of woody plants they can make it difficult to mulch thickly and lopping or brush cutting may need to be undertaken first. Certified rice straw was used to avoid introduction of terrestrial weed seeds. Other mulches have not been tried. Wood chips might also be effective if they are applied thickly enough. 

Winter monitoring is critical for mulched treatments in order to assess the condition of the mulch before growth surges in spring. If ox-eye daisies are seen growing through the mulch, it may have to be applied again. Check to see if the plants are seedlings or adults. When mulch is adequately applied the first time seedlings should not grow through it. Humans or animals may have passed through the area and disturbed the mulch. Where mulch is thinning, it should be re-applied, especially if there is a month or more of wet weather to come, or if the site is a wet habitat. Once a mature population is removed from the area, a crop of seedlings will take their place. Therefore, the length of time the area should remain mulched depends on the size of the seedbank and longevity of ox-eye daisy seeds in it. Along edges that are difficult to mulch, spot removal can be done by hand. 

Prescribed burning: This approach has not been assessed for ox-eye daisy.



Biological control: 
Insects and fungi: Biological control has not been investigated for this species.

Grazing: Intensive cattle grazing is an effective control for ox-eye daisy. Although cattle tend to avoid it because of its high acidity, under high stock density in an intensive grazing system, cattle eat this species (Wallander et al. 1991).



Chemical control: 
Picloram, imazapyr, sulfometuron methyl, and dicamba are effective at label concentration when applied in the early flowering stages, but these herbicides persist in the soil (Parsons 1992). Ox-eye daisy is moderately resistant to MCPA, 2,4-D, and dicamba (Stubbendieck et al. 1992), and these herbicides may damage non-target species.


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## Danaus29

Sycamore tree / Platanus occidentalis

A native of the eastern and central part of the Untied States. It is common in wet soils along streams and bottom lands. Some people consider this tree a weed because of it's rapid growth and ability to resprout from the trunk when it is cut. Other problems associated with this tree are the massive leaf cover, drooping branches, and easily shed sheets of bark. These problems are a huge benefit to the people who keep rabbits. Drooping branches place green foliage within easy reach. Sheets of thin (about 1/8th inch thick) bark are easily gathered in early summer. The huge leaves drop slowly in late fall to early winter. All are readily eaten by rabbits. 

I have been feeding sycamore to my rabbits for 11 years. Green leaves are trimmed as the branches droop down into our way and given to the rabbits. Both leaves and green twigs are eaten. Bark is eaten off large mature branches. Green leaves that drop through the late summer and early fall are fed immediately. We gather the large pieces of shed bark for our rabbits. They can be stored in feed sacks for winter use as a hay substitute. A shed full of rabbits crunching on dry bark sounds quite similar to a group of teenagers eating potato chips. The dried autumn leaves are a feed that is a bit more difficult to store. The leaves usually come down with heavy rains and their large size makes them hard to dry. If you can dry the leaves thoroughly they can be stored and fed all winter and into early spring when other green foods become available. Do not store the leaves in plastic bags. Large open bins, paper bags, cloth bags, and unused wire cages are the best storage containers.

http://forestry.about.com/library/silvics/blsilsyc.htm
http://www.na.fs.fed.us/pubs/silvics_manual/volume_2/platanus/occidentalis.htm

These photos are not mine but they are good ones:
http://dcwi.com/~bmills/trees/Planetree/Sycamore/Sycamore/index.htm


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## Karen in VA

*Blackberry, and Raspberry, and Bramble! Oh my!*

Blackberries and raspberries, often termed "brambles", are a diverse group of species and hybrids in the genus Rubus. They are members of the Rosaceae family, closely related to strawberry in the subfamily Rosoideae. Rubus is one of the most diverse genera of flowering plants in the world, consisting of 12 subgenera, some with hundreds of species.

Description and Identification:

Both blackberries and raspberries grow on canes. The compound leaves consist of 3 or 5 leaflets. They both have thorns, although there are some thorn free varieties. The flowers resemble small single roses and are white or light pink in color.

The easiest way to tell raspberries and blackberries apart is by the berries and the canes. The ripe raspberry is a cup that slips from a central knob or core. In the blackberry the core is part of the ripe fruit. The cross-section of a blackberry cane looks angled and grooved (like a starfish or star shape). The raspberry's is circular.

Benefits to Feeding:

Both raspberry and blackberry leaves are high in tannins which can relieve acute diarrhea. This makes them an excellent choice for any rabbit new to greens or with digestive upset. I have personally fed blackberry leaves to my 3 week old kits with no ill effects.

Another benefit to raspberry leaves is they are known for their reproductive benefits. Raspberry leaves are believed to strengthen the uterus and thereby to help ease labor. They also support lactation.

Raspberry leaves have an extremely high calcium level and a very high Ca ratio. Raspberry leaves also contain high levels of vitamins A and C. Most forages contain manganese but raspberry leaves contain more manganese than any other herb at 14.6mg per 100gm dried herb. Manganese deficiency can lead to bone abnormalities and retarded growth because manganese is required for the formation of the mucopolysacchride which forms the organic matrix of bone.




.


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## MaggieJ

Introduction: Last year, when I was giving myself a crash course in safe plants for rabbits, I found myself confusing the various sow thistles and prickly lettuce, a species that shares many details of appearance with the sow thistle family. 

There are at least three sow thistle species that are common over most of North America: 

perennial sow thistle (Sonchus arvensis)
annual smooth sow thistle (Sonchus oleraceus)
spiny annual sow thistle (Sonchus asper)

All are fast growing summer weeds with milky sap and yellow flowers that resemble tiny dandelions and go to seed in much the same manner. 

Prickly lettuce (Lactuca scariola or Lactuca serriola) also shares these characteristics. All four are compositae or composite flowers, members of the huge aster family. 
Let&#8217;s talk about prickly lettuce first before we move on to the sow thistles.


PRICKLY LETTUCE Lactuca scariola 

Other Botanical Name: Lactuca serriola

Other Common Names: Compass plant

Photo: http://www.missouriplants.com/Yellowalt/Lactuca_scariola_page.html

Other Sources:
http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/organicweeds/weed_information/weed.php?id=143

http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/weedguide/singlerecord.asp?id=1010

http://www.arthurleej.com/a-pricklylettuce.html

Description: A winter annual or biennial, prickly lettuce first forms a low-growing rosette of lobed leaves. As it begins to grow upward, the leaves become very flat, edged with spines and develop a line of small spines along the mid-rib of the underside of the leaf. They may or may not be lobed and both forms may appear on the same plant. All parts exude a bitter milky sap when broken.

Identification Tips: Prickly Lettuce can be easily identified by the line of small prickles all the way up the centre vein on the underside of each leaf. Also watch for this plant&#8217;s habit of twisting its leaves to face the sun. This gives rise to its other common name, compass plant.

Distribution: A European plant that has become naturalized in most areas of North America.

Uses: A close relative of cultivated lettuce, it can be used as a salad green when young. I tasted it the other day and it has a mild flavour when young and would be fine along with other greens. I would think it would also work in stir-fries or soups.

Prickly lettuce is also excellent green feed for rabbits, especially in spring and summer. They have no problems coping with the spines, which for the most part are fairly soft, and they seem to find it extremely palatable. Occasionally mine will leave a tough stem, but the leaves are always eaten.

Cautions: Cattle feeding on lush regrowth in autumn after summer droughts have been known to die with emphysema-like symptoms after eating large quantities of this plant. This apparently only happens to ruminants and only when the young leaves regenerate in response to autumn rains. The mature leaves and the dried leaves are safe. 

Since learning this, I have limited the amounts of regrowth I am feeding to my rabbits. Prickly lettuce is not known to cause problems for horses, only for ruminants, and since rabbits' digestive systems bear many similarities to horses&#8217; it seems unlikely that rabbits will be adversely affected&#8230; but I see no reason to take unnecessary risks.

Summary: A very abundant and useful wild plant. Used judiciously, it adds variety to the diet of forage fed rabbits. Young rabbits seem to thrive on it. Mine have been eating it alongside their mother from the age of two weeks with no visible ill effects.

******

PERENNIAL SOW THISTLE Sonchus arvensis

Other Names: Creeping sow thistle, hare&#8217;s lettuce

Photo: http://www.missouriplants.com/Yellowalt/Sonchus_arvensis_page.html
Other Sources:
http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/organicweeds/weed_information/weed.php?id=12
http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/weedguide/singlerecord.asp?id=1050

Description: A prickly perennial plant with glossy leaves and spines. The flowers are yellow, shaped like little dandelions. They bloom from July to frost. 

Identification Tips: Roots are rhizomes that creep under the soil, allowing new plants to spring up while still attached to the parent plant, hence the alternative name, creeping sow thistle.

Distribution: A European plant that has become naturalized throughout North America

Nutritional Information: Although perennial sow thistle compares favourably with alfalfa (Medicago sativa) for nutritional value, it is not especially palatable to large grazing animals. Rabbits, however, love it in spite of the spines and it is excellent forage for them, hence another name for it: hare&#8217;s lettuce.

Dry perennial sow thistle is about 10% protein by weight. It has equal or higher in vitro digestible dry matter, micro- and macro-mineral content and crude protein compared to alfalfa 

Uses: Occasionally used as a salad green when young, but the prickles are off-putting and would need removing. The flavour is pleasant, mild with just a hint of bitterness. 

Excellent green feed for rabbits and may be dried for winter use.

Cautions: None!

*****

ANNUAL SMOOTH SOW THISTLE Sonchus oleraceus

Other Names: Common sow thistle, annual sow thistle

Photo: http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/field/weeds/annual_sowthistlef1.htm#fig2

Other Sources:
http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/field/weeds/annual_sowthistle.htm

http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/organicweeds/weed_information/weed.php?id=54

Description: An annual plant with a taproot. Shares many characteristic of other sow thistles, but is fleshier and lacks spines. Ends of leaves are distinctly triangular in shape. Leaves tend to be less glossy and often have a slightly blue cast.

Identification Tips: The non-prickly sow thistle!

Distribution: A European plant that has become naturalized throughout North America

Nutritional Information: Similar to perennial sow thistle.

Uses: Should be an excellent salad green and likely good steamed or in stir-fries. Very mild, with just a touch of pleasant bitterness. The texture is pleasing and the leaves and stems are juicier than the other sow thistles. 

Used to reduce high blood pressure.

Excellent green feed for rabbits, but I might just steal some for myself!

Cautions: None!

*****

SPINY ANNUAL SOW THISTLE Sonchus asper

Other Names: Prickly sow thistle
Photo: http://www.missouriplants.com/Yellowalt/Sonchus_asper_page.html

Other Sources:
http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/organicweeds/weed_information/weed.php?id=74

Description: Similar in appearance to perennial sow thistle, but the leaves look and feel more waxy and are a deeper green. Has a taproot rather than a rhizome. The spines are strong enough that it can be slightly uncomfortable to pick, especially when older. The plant is more compact than the other sow thistles.

Identification Tips: Very spiny.

Distribution: A European plant that has become naturalized throughout North America

Nutritional Information: Similar to perennial sow thistle.

Uses: Not recommended as a salad plant because of the spines, but the flavour is fine. 

Excellent green feed for rabbits. Mine are eager for it and apparently are untroubled by the spines.

Cautions: None! 

*****

Summary: All varieties of sow thistle are among the best and safest green feed you can give your rabbits: very nutritious and without the concerns that accompany alfalfa. Prickly lettuce is also an excellent green feed, but caution may be called for when feeding lush, late-season regrowth. All these plant species are abundant throughout most of North America and such valuable invaders could be put to better use than they have been to date.


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## Marshloft

This was more difficult than I thought it would be.. I keep looking for something more.. But maybe,, less is better..
Shepherd's purse Capsella bursapastoris


I must confess, I don't know what "purses" shepherd carried or perhaps presently carry, or where these purse carrying shepherds live or lived. However it's a fair guess that these were Mediterranean shepherds, as this plant hails from that region. The "purses" are the little triangular or heart-shaped seed pods that the plant bears.

Shepherd's purse is yet another European mustard that has become an urban weed in North America. Shepherd's purse sprouts early in the year, and flowers before most other herby plants. It can grow in poor soil, and can even sprout from cracks in the pavement.

Its uses include edible greens (salad or cooked) of high nutritional value, and edible seeds. The seeds can be eaten raw from the pods or ground into a flour, as apparently some Native Americans did. It seems like gathering shepherd's purse seeds would be fairly labor-intensive, but the plant certainly grows in large enough amounts to make it potentially worth it. Many birds eat the seeds of this weed, and its seeds are sometimes included in birdseed mixes.
Photos can be found here..
http://urbpan.livejournal.com/265391.html



SHEPHERDS PURSE
Latin Name: Capsella bursa-pastoris
Family: Crucifereae
Height: 10-20cm 


An excellent astringent herb which guinea pigs normally ignore unless they have diarrhoea in which case they eat it readilly, seeming to recognise its properties. A safe food for rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas. Shepherd's Purse is a useful first aid measure to help prevent excessive post-partum bleeding although if there is any doubt about an animal's condition veterinary help should be sought immediately. 

Shepherds Purse has a good Ca ratio.

Constituents: Tyramine, choline, acetylcholine, tannin, essential oil, resin, saponins, flavanoids, polypeptides, fumaric and bursic acids, glucosinolates, diosmine, potassium. 

Actions: Uterine stimulant, diuretic, astringent. 

Source: http://www.galensgarden.co.uk/herbs/shepherdspurse.php

http://www.galensgarden.co.uk/herbivores/health/diarrhoea.php

http://islandgems.net/herbalremedies.html
Need to send and will add more as the day progresses and as time allows..
G.H.


----------



## Blair

Chicory (_chichorium intybus_) is a perennial herb with blue or lavender flowers. It blooms from May to October. It is common along roadsides and in fields. Chicory is found throughout much of the 48 States. 

It resembles dandelion in appearance except in color, forms a similar rosette of lobed, indented and toothed leaves that taper into lengthy stalks. Chicory grows from a large, deep taproot, erectly and to a height of about 3 feet. It resembles dandelion most when young but always remains bitter and exudes an acrid white juice when broken or cut.

Chicory contains calcium, phosphorus, iron, sodium, potassium, vitamins A and C, thiamine, riboflavin and niacin. With that long taproot growing down into the subsoil, it probably brings up a lot of other unnamed elements in trace amounts.

The root of Chicory contains volatile oils which are effective at eliminating internal parasites in all animals. The oils are present in all parts of the plant but the roots have the highest concentration. 

Chicory can also be planted as a forage crop and if managed properly its leafy growth is as nutritious as Alfalfa and is highly palatable to all livestock. 

References and pictures of this plant can be viewed at these links:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicory

http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/c/chicor61.html

http://www.aces.edu/dept/forages/forchic.html


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## MaggieJ

*Report on Willow (Salix spp.) and Poplar (Populus spp.) as livestock fodder.*

There are about 90 species of native North American willow (Salix) plus many more that have become naturalized here and about 35 species of poplar, plus a number of natural hybrids. Poplar is a member of the huge willow family (Silicaceae). Willow bark has been used for millennia for easing pain and aspirin has much the same chemical composition.

As far as I have been able to determine, all willows and poplars are safe to feed to rabbits; however, specific information relating to feeding willow and poplar to rabbits is hard to find. I feed both of these to my rabbits, willow regularly and poplar occasionally (merely because the poplar trees are further from the rabbitry and house) and have found that the rabbits eat both the bark and leaves eagerly. Willow, in particular, is among their top ten favourite plants.

Using trees as fodder for livestock is an idea that is gaining ground quickly, particularly in areas of the world where seasonal drought results in unreliable grass and legume supplies during the dry months. Because trees have a much deeper root system, they are better able to provide sustained production in dry conditions. Australia, New Zealand and Bhutan all have well-established usage of willow as feed for cattle and sheep.

It was a pleasant surprise to me to learn that willow and poplar compare favourably with alfalfa as a source of protein. Crude protein content varies with the seasons, from a low of about 11% to a high of 25%. Crude fibre varies from 12 to 22%. Poplar has similar levels. Willows grown in Canada, for reasons unspecified, generally have only about 16% protein, but that is about the same as many commercial feeds.

There is a lot of information about feeding willow to cattle and sheep. See the sources at the end of this report for more information. One experiment with cattle found that lactating cows fed entirely on willow maintained their milk supply at a level equal to the period preceding willow feeding &#8211; and that milk supply dropped when the willow was discontinued.

Here, we are fortunate in having a huge weeping willow tree providing shade for our summer rabbitry. Salix babylonica is the preferred species of willow as tree fodder in Bhutan and we make good use of it here as well. From spring until late autumn we feed the leaves and tender branches to our rabbits several times a week. We also dry large quantities for winter use and sometimes feed the bare frozen whips as well. It is easy to harvest for drying and can simply be tied in convenient-sized bundles and hung up on nails on the walls of the winter rabbitry until needed. 

The use of trees and shrubs as a source of feed for livestock is not new. Plato, in his Critias and Timaeus, noted that: &#8220;...there were also many other lofty cultivated trees which provided unlimited fodder for beasts.&#8221;

In England and parts of northern Europe, elms were used as a source of fodder until the mid-1800s. They formed an integral part of the farming system (Lamb 1979). The elm's large volume of canopy contains much needed proteins, carbohydrates and minerals sought by livestock. This small digression is simply to point out that other trees besides willow and poplar can be used for animal fodder.

Some of the species that are used world-wide are:

Ã	Tagasaste: Chamaecytisus proliferus
Ã	Carob: Ceratonia siliqua 
Ã	Honey Locust: Gleditsia triacanthos 
Ã	Willows: Salix spp, especially the weeping willow, Salix babylonica, and the hybrid Salix matsudana x alba 
Ã	Poplars: Populus spp 
Ã	Leucaena: Leucaena leucocephala 
Ã	Chenopods: particularly Atriplex nummularia.

Willows are valued for their spring and summer foliage. They are fast growing, long-lived, and easily propagated from cuttings. They yield copious foliage after just two or three years, up to 200 kgs (about 440 pounds) per tree per year. The foliage contains an average 17% protein. 

Willows coppice readily, even when cut right back. Trees are kept low to be grazed directly by cattle or more easily cut for other livestock. Willows are drought tolerant and frost resistant and are ideal for soil stabilisation. 

Poplars (Populus spp) are grown under conditions similar to willows. They are deciduous, providing foliage in spring and summer. Like willow, they are fast growing and tolerate dry periods well. Yields are increased by keeping them well grazed and small. The trees should be well spaced and can be grazed within their first two or three years. Propagation is from cuttings or suckers. Yields of five to seven tonnes dry matter per hectare per year on first cutting; second browsing should double this. 

Willow and poplar have been fed successfully to livestock in many parts of the world for many years. At first, it was
used during periods of drought for animal maintenance; however, after much studying, hands-on experience, and high level testing, it was determined that these trees, and others, could be fed to livestock on a regular basis.

Furthermore, it was proven that the (RFV) Relative Feed Value and protein levels equate favourably to those of alfalfa, hay, and other forage. Once planted, the trees offer an available feed source for many years without concern for watering, fertilizing, or crop rotation.

Depending on your method of planting, this feed source will yield between 100 to 400 tons of (DM) Digestible Material, per acre, per year.

Summary: 

All this information is useful to livestock farmers, but for the small homestead or backyard rabbitry, what is the bottom line? 

In my opinion, willow and poplar of all types may be fed with confidence to rabbits as a good source of protein and other valuable nutrients. 

In addition to their nutritive qualities, there is considerable evidence that willow acts as a natural wormer and coccidiostat. 
Given the ease of propagation and the ubiquitous nature of these trees, establishment of a stand can only be a good thing for the smallholder and homesteader.

PHOTOS:

Click on species name for pictures of various willows.
http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgu...ges?q=willow&start=20&ndsp=20&um=1&hl=en&sa=N

Balsam Poplar
http://canadianbiodiversity.mcgill.ca/english/species/plants/plantpages/pop_bal.htm

Aspen Poplar
http://ca.geocities.com/nbwilderness/aspen.html

SOURCES:

http://www.fao.org/ag/AGP/AGPC/doc/pasture/peshawarproceedings/willow.pdf

http://www.grahamandrews.com/fodder_trees.htm


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## Danaus29

Common Plantain aka Plantago major and Blackseed Plantain Plantago rugelii

Plantain is a perennial that will grow almost anywhere. It's distribution is nearly worldwide. It has large flat leaves which can reach up to 6 inches in
length. The plant sends up flower stalks with barely noticable flowers which are wind pollinated. The seeds can live for up to 60 years in most soils. 

Despite being a weed that can smother common lawn grasses, plantain is a valuable food and medicine.

Plantain can be harvested in 2 ways. You can pick single leaves or pull the entire plant. Rabbits will eat plantain fresh and dried. I usually just brush or knock the dirt off the roots when feeding fresh. When drying the dirt should be washed off. Plantain can be harvested from the time it emerges in mid-spring until it goes dormant in late fall. Rabbits will eat the entire plant including roots and flower/seed stalks.

Plantain has many medicinal uses: respiratory, mucilage, antibacterial, emollient, astringent, stops diarrhea, diuretic, hemostatic, vulnary, and as an eyewash.

There is a vast amount of information covering plantago major in books and on the internet. Recipies for medicinal use, ways of cooking and harvesting for human consumption, uses for the seeds, etc. I have covered only a tiny bit here. 

http://www.altnature.com/gallery/plantain.htm
http://www.asimplerway.com/archives/000176.html
http://www.drugs.com/npp/plantain.html
http://www.kingdomplantae.net/commonPlantain.php
http://www.botanical-online.com/medicinalsllantenangles.htm


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## turtlehead

*Yarrow*
*Latin Name:* Achillae millefolium
*Common Names:* Nosebleed plant, Milfoil, Soldier's woundwort

*Description:*
Yarrow is a perennial flowering plant in the aster/daisy family with large flat flower clusters that are typically white;at a glance it resembles Queen Anne's Lace. It grows to about 10 to 20 inches in height and blooms from May to August. 








Larger image: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Budding_yarrow.jpg

The foliage is feathery, similar to mustard.








Larger image: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Mp-Achillea_millefolium.jpg

Yarrow also comes in other colors, primarily pale shades of pink and lilac. 

*Cultivation:*
Yarrow is drought tolerant; preferring poorly developed, well drained soil; it can suffer from mildew in wet areas. It is a perennial and reproduces from either seeds or rhizomes. It can be invasive. The seeds require light for germination so should be planted no more than 1/4 inch deep.

Yarrow can be found growing wild in fields and meadows, and by the roadside. It likes a sunny location.

*Nutritional/Homeopathy:*

Yarrow contains calcium.
It is an antiseptic, and helps prevent the growth of disease causing microorganisms. In an experiment, a yarrow wash and a plain saline wash were used on rabbit wounds for 21 days. The wounds were washed at the same frequency and time of day. Wounds treated with yarrow extract had more improved healing appearance and rate of contraction than the control wounds. 
Yarrow functions as an astringent both externally and internally; thus, it can assist in treating wounds or diarrhea.
It has the curious reputation of either stopping a nosebleed or, if you have a migraine, you can put yarrow leaves in your nose to promote a nosebleed (relieving pressure and thus curing the migraine).
 Yarrow is a diruetic, and increases the secretion and elimination of urine. Guinea pigs and dwarf breeds can have problems with urinary tract stones, which, because of their size, can be difficult or impossible to eliminate naturally. 
Yarrow is an emmenagogue, and like shepherds purse and raspberry it can ease the birth process; however, raspberry is preferred as some sources say not to use during pregnancy. 
Yarrow is a good rabbit and cavy food when young and tender.
Yellow and Pink Yarrow are listed as rabbit resistant plants, good for planting in landscaping or in the garden.










*Information Sources:*
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarrow
http://medwelljournals.com/new/5/detail.php?id=5&jid=java&theme=5&issueno=63&articleno=1088
http://www.galensgarden.co.uk/herbs/constituents.php
http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/y/yarrow02.html
http://www.gardenguides.com/plants/info/herbs/yarrow.asp


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## emerald_2033

The common dandelion (_Taraxacum Officianale_) is one of several varieties of dandelion, and is the most commonly found throughout the world. Botanists disagree on the actual number of sub-species with opinions varying from 60 to over 200. All share the following characteristics. They are from the genus _Taraxacum_, family _Asteraceae_. All are tap-rooted biennial or perennial flowering plants. 
Some variables do exist among sub-species as well as within each. Sharply toothed leaves can be 5-25 cm in length but all form a basal rosette above the central tap-root. Yellow flowers from 2-8 cm across are made up of hundreds of tiny florettes that open during the day on stems filled with a milky latex. Stems do not branch and support one flower head each. Once the flower has matured the seed head arises after about 2 days and holds the familiar puff or 'dandelion wishie' which is also known as the clock. 
Some common names for dandelion around the world make light of its properties. Dent de lion in French, for example, refers to the sharply toothed appearance of the leaves. Others point toward the plants properties as a diuretic, 'liver tonic', and digestive stimulant.
All parts of the plant are edible for humans and I've found no contraindications for feeding to rabbits and other animals. Young leaves and unopened buds are most palatable for people, but 'coffee' made from tap root has been consumed around the world for centuries. Jelly can be made from open flowers and is quite yummy.... The greens can be eaten both raw and cooked by humans.
Nutritional value is excellent with leaves and buds containing vitamins A, C, phosphorus,iron and calcium. Some sources say that they contain more iron and calcium than spinach.The plant is high in fiber and can contain several trace minerals given the proper growing conditions. It also contains luteolin which is an antioxidant.
One caution, there is an acid present (caffeianic <sp?>) that has been shown to be carcinogenic ( in large doses) in lab mice. However,some researchers feel this is due to a bacteria found in the digestive tract of mice rather than the acid itself.
Yellow and green colors can be obtained using leaves and flowers for dye. The milky latex found in stems and roots is used as a mosquito repellant.
Overall, dandelion is a nutritional powerhouse, readily attainable and easily identified.
Sources:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/dandelion : includes images
www.thegreenguide.com/doc/96/dandelion 
Edible Wildflowers of North America: Author unknown, published in 1976, missing cover and front pages...sorry....
Recipes, if you can call them such, are my own...enjoy.

Dandelion and garlic
3 big handfulls of washed greens with a few buds
2 cloves garlic smashed with the flat of knife
1 tbsp (give or take) balsalmic vinegar ( malt vinegar is good too)
1/2 tsp soy sauce
1/2 cup (or to taste) sunflower seeds or walnuts
olive oil for sauteeing
Works best in a cast iron skillet. Sautee quickly with oil and vinegar. Toss seeds/nuts in for last few seconds then toss with soy sauce. Omit soy sauce if you prefer salt. I usually don't add pepper as the greens are a bit peppery, like spinach or mustard. You can also add a scallion or onion into the greens...or ramps if you're lucky enough to have them...yummy.

~Add finely torn raw greens to salads 
~Toss in with upland cress (creasy greens), kale, collards or any other greens
~Work in place of most greens in recipes, especially the more bitter ones.

Dandelion Jelly
1 quart fresh dandelion blossoms, slightly packed
2 quarts water
1 box sure-jell or other powdered pectin
5 1/2 cups sugar
3 drops yellow food coloring if desired
1 tbsp. orange extract (Taste the sweetened juice before adding extract, its often enough on its own , can use lemon or lime as well, my grandmother prefers using 2 tbsp, but 1 is enough for me if I use any at all.)
Combine blossoms and water, bring to boil. Cook for 3 minutes at hard boil. Strain through cloth or jelly bag pressing thouroughly. Measure 3 cups juice. Add surejell to hot juice. Return to rolling boil, quickly add sugar. Cook, stirring constantly for 3 minutes, add food coloring and extract. Pour into hot jars immediately and seal. Hot water bath for 10 minutes.


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## MaggieJ

Bumping this up for O&itw.


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## Bamboorabbit

Bidens Alba here in the South named Beggars Tick. It is an annoying and prolific weed as the seeds stick in to clothing with the slightest touch. The entire plant including flowers is edible by rabbits and US! The tender growth at the tips and flower buds as well as flowers are quite good raw. They as well as the older foilage can also be cooked like spinach for human consumption. My rabbits love this weed and it is very common in the south.

The plant is currently being studied as a drug to fight certain forms of cancer.


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## ALANB

WHY NO REPORTS on Lambs-Quarter I would think it to be the most popular !!! Answer back YA'LL ......... THANKYOU ...... ALAN B .


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## MaggieJ

ALANB said:


> WHY NO REPORTS on Lambs-Quarter I would think it to be the most popular !!! Answer back YA'LL ......... THANKYOU ...... ALAN B .


Hello, ALANB, and welcome to the Rabbit Forum.  

Are you volunteering to cover Lamb's-Quarter? It certainly should be included in this thread!


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## lonelyfarmgirl

I read the mulberry study, and found it very interesting. It said they harvested leaves everyday for 30 rabbits. How many must they have had to pick! I can't imagine how much time and effort that took.


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## Mac_

MaggieJ said:


> Hello, ALANB, and welcome to the Rabbit Forum.
> 
> Are you volunteering to cover Lamb's-Quarter? It certainly should be included in this thread!


I feed lambs quarter and pigweed to my chickens and ducks.

From other threads: 

--------------------------------------------------------------------

MaggieJ Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 10,606 

Re: *Lamb's Quarters *(Chenopodium album) a quick google search indicates that you are perfectly correct about its possibilities as a wormer. Purslane (Portulaca oleoracea) is another common weed that sounds promising in this regard. I feed both of these to my rabbits, but feed lamb's quarters only when young, before blossoming. We need to dig a little deeper for more information, but feeding plants like these may be more beneficial than we thought.

http://www.holisticbird.org/pages/dgarden.htm

Regarding iodine and Vanodine, I think Beaniemom may know. I recall that she uses Vanodine a lot in her rabbitry. I'll PM her. 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MaggieJ Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 10,606 

Quote:
Originally Posted by vikav 
Is there a reason you feed it young, before it blossoms? 

It is used as a human food in its young stages but not later... and I have noticed that the rabbits reject it as it gets older. In spring it is very useful because it starts early when greens are a bit limited; but later on the mallows, sow thistle, prickly lettuce etc. fill the gap. So I drop out the ones that *may accumulate nitrates in their leaves: red-root pigweed, curly dock etc.* I am not sure if lamb's quarters is one of these nitrate accumulators or not, but I treat it as such, taking my cue from the bunnies. 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Amaranthus retroflexus (redroot pigweed): inabilit... [Am J Vet Res. 1985] - PubMed result
(Does not cause renal problems in rabbits.)

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3970436


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## MaggieJ

Thanks for posting that link, Mac! The more information we have to work with, the better. 

All the same, the decreased palatability is not going to help us put weight on those fryers if they won't eat it. Some are pickier than others.


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## romysbaskets

Nettles, the ultimate weed to avoid letting go to seed! The scientific common name being Urtica dioica. It seeds in profuse abundance from stalks hanging in threads. It must be managed carefully to utilize on one's property. It has a tendency to go wild if the seeds blow. Pic below of Nettles with seeds.










I gather this highly misunderstood stinging plant for the vegetable use, tea leaves, to make salve and oil from, compost and livestock feed. I gather the seeds for an energy boost and dried seeds to sell to others reasonably. I dig up the plants and roots as well. 

Ok the Stinging weeds need to be here too! Livestock won't eat them live but dried, most thrive on them! Nettles are rich in vitamins A and C, 40% protein by leaf volume supplying chlorophyll, Calcium, Potassium and more!

Horses are fed dried nettle to provide shinier coats and to keep them healthier. Cows will actually provide a higher volume and richer milk. Chickens even trouble layers will lay more eggs. This actually improves the nutritional value of the egg itself. Rotted Nettles as a compost are like liquid gold for your garden, containing 7% nitrogen and higher in many essential nutrients than a commercial fertilizer.

As a survival food it is a great lightweight food to bring with you, steamed it tastes a bit like spinach. You can see the advantage with the high protein content it provides...like a meat and veggie in one form! It can be incorporated in many dishes which are delicious cooked up at home. 

Mature stalks can be harvested for their fiber which can be woven into cloth. The root can be utilized in Europe for Prostate treatment as well as the tea is a medicinal with pain relieving properties. For men, the tea promotes and maintains prostate health, it is a natural blood cleanser. There are some warnings out that it can amplify the affect of prescription medications so caution if taking any, check with your doc.

As a hair tonic, there are claims it helps restore thinning hair by stimulating the scalp! The nettle tea used as a hair rinse is also supposed to help prevent the grey in your hair..I had better try that! I only have a little but what a nice easy way to have a little fun with it. As applied on the skin around your eyes, very gentle for aging skin and a good wrinkle preventative. Yes DH and I both use it!


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## MaggieJ

Good information about nettles, Romy! Thanks!


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## Oxankle

I notice that the list of trees includes honey locust. In my area "Honey Locust" is the tree with so many huge thorn clusters that they will ruin tractor tires. The trees I cut to feed my cattle, and they love them, are BLACK locusts, which have only very modest thorns and on juvenile wood only. Cut at the stump they will send up suckers and come back, but the cattle will eat these suckers off so that the tree dies. The plant is of course very nutritious, a legume, and the animals eat seeds, young stems and leaves.


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## MaggieJ

Oxankle said:


> I notice that the list of trees includes honey locust. In my area "Honey Locust" is the tree with so many huge thorn clusters that they will ruin tractor tires. The trees I cut to feed my cattle, and they love them, are BLACK locusts, which have only very modest thorns and on juvenile wood only. Cut at the stump they will send up suckers and come back, but the cattle will eat these suckers off so that the tree dies. The plant is of course very nutritious, a legume, and the animals eat seeds, young stems and leaves.


I skimmed through this thread, Oxankle, but could not find the reference to either kind of locust tree. You've given us some interesting information, however, that should be useful. Can you provide botanical names for the trees you referred to? It is the only way to be certain that we all mean the same plant.


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## rickfrosty

Just quickly I will say that in 3 seasons (as long as I can) I cut fresh grass & every kind of weed (don't know them, but there are many diff. kinds) that grows near rabbit hootches 2ice a day & they munch it all down w/delight ?! This is in the forest of western ME.


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## Shayanna

Now, you all keep talking about the rasberry, blackberry, and mulberry plants/trees/leaves, but what about the fruits off of them? Is there anything to be said about crabapple?


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## PatriotSurvival

I personally eat & feed My rabbits Canna Lily


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## tentance

I'm working on a full list of everything that i can think of to keep the rabbits nutritionally healthy, yet cut feeding costs. My new plan is to buy pure alfalfa pellet (high protein, not too expensive) and add to that the things in this list. 
It can be tough because most of the books on "weeds" are usually for the SE parts of the US, and a lot of those plants don't grow here. like lamb's quarters, alfalfa, dandelions, etc.

The nutritional makeup up a rabbit's complete diet is a large subject best explored in another post. This is meant to be just a list of safe plants, along with a list of common but unsafe plants. Starred items I have personally fed my rabbits with no ill effects.

*Grassy Types *
Banana leaves*
Rye*
Bamboo*
Yellow Nutsedge*
Bahia*
Plantain*
Sunflower
Sorghum*
Pampas Grass
Fountain Grass
Kenaf

*Legume Types*
Cowpea leaves*
Peanut leaves*
Black Turtle bean leaves*
Green runner bean leaves*
Desmodium spp. leaves*

*Herb Types*
Spanish Needle (Bidens alba)*
Soap Ginger*
Cardamom Ginger
Purslane*
Sweet potato leaves*
All Rosaceae family, including blackberry*, raspberry, pears*, and roses
Sycamore*
Maple*
Hibiscus*
Mulberry
Citrus leaves
Persimmon leaves*
Canna leaves*
Squash spp.*
Carrot leaves*
Cilantro*
Rosemary
Basil
Parsley*
Lemongrass
Oregano
Sage
Prickly Pear (spines removed)
Pusley, Brazilian* and Floridian*
Violet Woodsorrel (In small quantities)


*Unsafe but common plants*
Oak trees and acorns
Crinum
Century plant
All Prunus species including Cherry Laurel (fruit may be safe, pits are not)
Chinaberry Tree
4 O'Clocks
Taro, Dasheen, Elephant Ear
Caladium
Amaryllis
Gladiolus
White Potato Greens
Oleander
Tomato plants
Crape Myrtle
Lantana
Privet
Frangipani
Rhoeo spathacea Steam (syn. R. discolor Hance)
Oyster plant
Moses-in-a-Boat (Purple Heart)
Rain lily

*Unknown Toxicity Status*
Heliconia
Ixora
Hydrangea
Ferns
Bromeliads
Palmetto
Cabbage Palm
Crepe Myrtle
Loquat
Fig
Pine needles
Stargazer or Daylily
Kiwi
Muscadine grape
Orange Honeysuckle
Yucca spp.
Mexican Creeper
Passionflower
Magnolia
Allamanda
Confederate Jasmine
Wisteria
Dog Fennel
Liriope
Peace Lily
Periwinkle
Mexican Petunia
Air Potato
Mimosa
Acacia spp.
Begonia spp.
Cypress spp.
Pecan leaves
Prickly sida, Sida spinosa

Rabbits turn weeds into fertilizer, just think of the possibilities...​


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## Terri

MIL had wonderfull flower beds and she never had to do anything but water them! 

This was because every day she would gather 1-2 handfulls of rabbit feed from them. That was all the weeding they ever needed.


----------



## MaggieJ

Thanks, Terri, for all your hard work on safe plants of the south. It's been lacking for a long time! Would it be possible to include the botanical (Latin) names of the plants as well. This would really help prevent mistakes in identification. Common names vary from region to region and often the plants are not even in the same family. We had one situation where someone was all set to feed her rabbits teasels because in her area they called them cattails. Fortunately she made a comment about the spines and we got it sorted out.


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## tentance

Shayanna,

There has not been a lot of research done on rabbit forage for many years, and some of the best information is coming to us from the "third world". From what i have found, the majority of members of the Rosaceae family are safe, while members of the Prunus family are not.
When in doubt, don't risk it, right? I would probably try crabapple if it lived here, and for sure my buns love pear leaves.


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## MaggieJ

Yes, in general, members of the Rosaceae family are safe: rose leaves and flowers, apples branches, leaves and fruit, ditto pear. The seeds of apple and perhaps pear are considered toxic, but the amounts needed to cause a problem far exceed what a rabbit would normally be given. Cutting the apple "around the equator" makes it easy to knock out the seeds.

The fruits of the Prunus family - peaches, plums and other single stoned fruits - are likely safe in small quantities, but the foliage, branches and seeds are best given a miss. The fruit is very sugary and best used at most as an occasional treat in very small quantities.


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## tentance

yup, see post above.


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## Julia Winter

I have a question: we were told by our vet that apple branches were "like candy" and shouldn't be given every day. With three apple trees on our property (four, including the crabapple) we could give apple prunings pretty often, but we haven't.

It doesn't make sense to me: I can see that you wouldn't want to give actual slices of apple every day, but the bark and leaves? Really?


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## Julia Winter

I want to put in a good word for Lambsquarters. They are so yummy I have been known to collect, blanch and freeze the leaves for future consumption! I even tossed a bunch of the larger leaves with olive oil, spread them out on cookie sheets, sprinkled with salt and baked them, making delicious "chips." 

Our rabbit loves it as well.


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## feedbunns

Hello every one.
I have been searching for days online for some information like this. I knew it must be possible to feed meat rabbits a varied and some what free diet.
THANK YOU!!
I live in south west Iowa. I raise New Zealand Whites. I am a litttle obsessed with them. I have studied every book that I could get from the library for many years. I checked out Storys guide to raising rabbits so many times that the librarian told me that I should by it. I did not buy it, I think that I have it memorized!
I also have Buff Orpington chickens and a veggie garden and fruit trees.
I stay very busy, but I always make time for my bunns.
Right now I am cutting tall grass by hand and drying it to feed my bunns this winter. The winters here can last for more than half of the year.
Any more advise that you can give me to help me feed the bunns is much appreciated. 
Thanks again
Lisa


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## scarlet812

Can anyone share info on chicory? I've heard people say they feed it to their rabbits, but I would like more details...do you just give the whole plant? Is it possible to get seeds from existing plants to grow more and if so, how?


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## MaggieJ

All parts of the chicory plant (Cichorium intybus) are edible for rabbits, but in general it is best to leave the root in the ground to regenerate. I feed all the above ground parts, just take the pruning shears and cut it off. You can gather mature seeds to grow your own or you can buy them online.
*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cichorium*

http://forages.oregonstate.edu/php/fact_sheet_print_forb.php?SpecID=14


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## pamda

Oh, I have questions...hope I dont sound to dumb. I have been feeding the 2 bunnies we were given on weeds and bamboo from my moms bamboo forest.Also, stuff from my garden and stuff like a few seedless grapes etc. Do I need to provide anything else? like, salt lick, hay, pellets, all the stuff they sell at the store. Also, I have been feeding the chickens oat meal this summer and let the rabbit have some. Is this ok. My son had a fit saying it will kill them (I know, he gets very dramatic)


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## MaggieJ

Oatmeal - if it is indeed just rolled oats - is fine for rabbits in moderation. If they are not getting pellets, they do need a trace mineral salt block. The reddish-brown ones for general livestock are fine. They are likely getting enough fibre from the greens and bamboo but they may be a short on protein. Some alfalfa hay or alfalfa cubes might be a good idea.

You will have to consider what you will be feeding them when winter comes. I would start to adjust their diet soon so that there is a seamless transition when the supply of greens begins to dwindle. My rabbits get alfalfa hay free choice, small amounts of whole grain, the mineral/salt block and as many greens as the season provides. Even in the dead of winter, I make sure they get some fresh foods.


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## pamda

Thanks so much. Yes just plain old oats from the grocery. It is cheaper than feed right now and the hens do really well with it, the doe loves them a lot. I am drying long grasses and weeds for winter (never done before but worth a try). I cant get the boy to eat pellets at all, he ran all over the neighborhood where I got him for weeks. And ate what wild rabbits do i am guessing. Will go get some hay cubes on payday. And salt.


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## ChocolateMouse

I'd like to add to this thread a little bit!

Purple Deadnettle (Lamium purpureum)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lamium_purpureum
http://eatingmymoccasinsnow.blogspot.com/2009/02/dead-nettle-lamium-purpureum.html

This is a good rabbit-safe weed, but some bunnies don't like it much. It's listed as a rabbit-resistant plant. One of my rabbits eats is religiously when given, and most of the baby bunnies will try it as well but most of my adults will only nibble on the tops. Still, it is high in fiber, iron and antioxidants. It's a relative of mint.

It's also an important spring flower for bees because there's little that blooms earlier. It dies out quickly when the heat hits, also, so you'll only find it in spring. Deadnettle is a relative of mint, not nettle.



And another plant people might not think of is the wild carrot commonly called;
Queen Anne's Lace (Dacus carota)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daucus_carota

The whole of this plant is edible to rabbits. My rabbits love to chow down on the stalks and will happily consume the small, wiry taproots as well just like a normal carrot. They are edible to people as well, but are very woody in the root. This woodiness will help keep your rabbit's teeth worn down.

This plant bears a close resemblance to hemlock so be careful when harvesting it. The key features are a fuzzy stem and a very carroty smell from broken stems and roots.
Poison hemlock has smooth stems, often with purple dots on them. The leaves are bitter and gross smelling, a bit like parsnips. THIS PLANT IS DEADLY AND WILL KILL ANY ANIMAL THAT EATS EVEN A LITTLE OF IT. It's death by paralysis of the lungs, an awful way to go! Be careful!

The wild carrot, properly identified, is perfectly safe, the tops grow in huge abundance so the rabbits get more of the healthy carrot tops than the relatively sugar-filled root. The nutritional value is very similar to the domestic carrot which was bred from these plants. I feed these to all my rabbits frequently and they love them.

Please also note that like domestic carrots, it's best to harvest these on a cloudy day because they can cause photophytodermatitus (or a rash when you're in the sun!).


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## MaggieJ

Good information, ChocolateMouse! Thanks! 

Just a note that the *seeds* of Queen Anne's lace have *contraceptive and medicinal properties *and I recommend cutting off any flower heads that have turned to the "bird's nest" shape as they set seed.


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## guitarstring87

I live in central Florida and will be starting up a back yard silver fox rabbitry in January when our home is complete. We will be planting and keeping several Moringa trees for our own consumption because of the RIDICULOUS nutritional content. Has anyone ever tried using the leaves as a dietary supplement for rabbits? Here is a link to the nutritional values. 

http://www.themoringa.com/nutritional-values

Let me know what you think! If no one has ever tried it, I will blaze the trail. I just don't want to needlessly poison a rabbit if someone has already found it toxic.


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## ChocolateMouse

My biggest concern about that is the high calcium levels. Rabbits prefer low-calcium food sources which is why I love using roses and carrots so much....

For example many of the greens we give that are considered "high calcium" are things like dandelions. But this plant has 4X's the level of calcium as in dandelions.

If you try this I suggest using a bedding or bottom that you can see the urine on. Calcium gives rabbits urinary issues. I'd look for very dark urine and if you see it stop.


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## clothAnnie

Guitarstring, I'm in a Facebook group called the Moringa the better . I think done people on there talk about giving it to their rabbits. I'm personally growing some seeds right now for our family and hopefulyl chickens, too.


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## feedbunns

Hello every one on my most favorite sight ever.
I have been out digging up weeds to feed to my bunny's
I wanted to make sure that this is not poison.
Thanks feedbunns


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## cloudhidden

That looks like cranesbill, aka wild geranium. I've got the stuff all over my yard. Haven't checked whether it's safe or not but I'm doin the weeds for bunnies thing too so I will be checking it out


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## Studhauler

I recently found some nettle on my property. How do i fed it to my rabbits? How can i transplant it to a closer location?

Thanks


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## slowpoke49

Thanks for this post. Years ago, I visited the Alabama Indian reservation in eastern Texas. They told me they usually made their bows from iron wood. I had never heard of it and now I know what it is. So I learned something new today. Really appreciate the info.


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## dizzy

MaggieJ said:


> I skimmed through this thread, Oxankle, but could not find the reference to either kind of locust tree. You've given us some interesting information, however, that should be useful. Can you provide botanical names for the trees you referred to? It is the only way to be certain that we all mean the same plant.


Don't know for sure what he's talking about, but those that I know of as honey locust and black locust are _Gleditsia triacanthos_ and _Robinia pseudoacacia_. Both are in the pea family. 

If you're using them for food sources, be sure you know which is which. The bark and leaves of the black locust can be highly toxic!


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## scarlet812

We have moved to MN, so I am encountering a lot of vegetation that we didn't have at our place in Indiana - new learning curve to tackle! 

One thing we have is a huge tree, next to the parking area, that appears to be a Locust tree - same leaf configuration, makes the seed pods - but I have yet to find any thorns anywhere on the branches. 

Does anyone have any idea what this specific type of Locust is, and whether it is safe to give trimmings to the rabbits? Goats, too, if anyone knows? 

The tree is HUGE and needs a lot of trimming, so I'd love to make use of what we need to remove. To explain, I am only 5'2" tall, and I am getting poked in the face walking under it.  My husband has suggested cutting it down several times, but being the tree hugger I am, I can't agree to cutting down a healthy tree. IMO, it just needs a good haircut.


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## dizzy

Can you take some pictures of it? It may not be a locust tree.


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