# Dog clipping help.......



## tallpines (Apr 9, 2003)

So, we bought an Oster A5 clipper plus an extra blade for a longer cut.

The target is our 175 pound St. Bernard who has an extremely thick tangled, dirty, never ending, mat of hair.

We can't get the clippers to work worth a darn.

It just doesn't penrtrate, or slide under that mat.

DH's barber suggested cleaning the new blades with gas to remove any protective film put in place for shipping.

We still can't make any head way.

I clip with a scissors when I can but at this rete it will take until the end of summer.
The poor dog is really suffering in all this heat.

Advice, please!


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## Willow101 (Feb 20, 2008)

What number are the blades that you have purchased? I am suspecting that you got a 10 blade with the clipper?

If the dog is matted to the skin I highly recommend sending the dog to a professional groomer just to get the dog started. Once the dog is clipped the first time then you can continue. Clipping a dog that is matted to the skin can cause a lot of damage and pain to the dog if you do it incorrectly.

No blade is designed to go 'thru' a mat. All must go under the mats if done correctly. Yes, you can muscle your way through a matted coat but that is risking inury to the dog and damaging the blades and you still end up with mats...depending on how deep you went with the blade.

Its really impossible to determine whether the dog's coat is matted to the skin or whether technique is incorrect. I taught grooming for 30 years and so often students would say the blades wouldn't clip and all that was required was a minor adjustment in technique.

Willow101


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## deetu (Dec 19, 2004)

Yes, I was going to say to start at a place that is clear to cut under the matts. Like the belly out. You can't cut through the matt. Also, if you cut an area with the scissors to start. 

I also suggest you dip the running blades in oil (we spray WD in a clean cat food can) to keep them from getting clogged. Also be careful that the blades don't get to hot. Rest to clean and cool them often. The Oster A5 is a good clipper

Good luck


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## Willowynd (Mar 27, 2005)

If the dog is matted to the skin, then you may need a smaller blade (larger number)...and as stated, you have to start next to the skin and work under the mat and go slow and keep a can of klipper kool handy- you will need it often. You want to try to remove the matt in one piece to make it easier on the blades and to keep from having to work to get it started again. I use a slight digging motion, start with blade against skin and as you move it forward, lift up slightly as you go against the skin. I do this with matted persians I have gotten brought to me (took me years to learn to keep my mouth shut that I clip cats) as thier skin tears sooo easily. You will then have to go back over the coat to even it up, but it does get the matt off easier and faster. Also, make sure you have the clippers assembled properly and the screws are adjusted to the right tension. I know this sounds like a duh, but I have been known to put a blade in upside down before and think the clippers were broken.
I find it easiest to start at the base of the skull and work back doing a path of 3 clipper widths- leaving that chunk on and going back only about a clipper length. I then go from right under the ear back to connect to that piece at the side, then the other ear, , then I work back on all paths from there...working down the back and sides and going from head to tail. Then after that is off, I come back and start at the throat, again going 3 clipper widths and then above that at side of each jaw- to work down the bottom of the shoulders, chest and belly. I normally leave the legs and head be- other than to blend with a #7 skip and do the tail only if it needs it.


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## marvella (Oct 12, 2003)

it is my experience that those clippers are not up to the task. as near as i can tell (and i went through 4 kinds) that kind of clipper is meant for nice clean house dogs, not big, outside dogs. (I have a pyr that has to be shorn every year.)

in desperation i bought sheep shears, $400 (yikes!) at the coop. now they really do the job and quick. i can get him done in about 30 minutes instead of it being an all day project needing two people.


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## Willow101 (Feb 20, 2008)

Please don't use sheep shears. They can and do inflict nasty injuries because of their design. They just aren't made for clipping dogs. My ex father inlaw killed a dog with them. They aren't likely to do much harm on the body but can easily slice tendons, veins and arteries on the legs. 

The clippers described are professional grade and very capable of clipping the worst dogs. It won't be as time saving as with sheep shears but it will be a thousand times safer. Of course if the clippers are not used correctly then they will appear to not be up to the job.

Sorry to disagree so adamently. I am not trying to start a war. But I have seen the injuries due to using sheep shears on dogs. And who can forget the dog that bled to death because of one wrong stroke. The blade went through the tendon and into the artery underneath before my father in law could correct his error.

Willow101


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## MOmamma (Jun 27, 2009)

We had to buy a heavy duty clipper for our Great Pyr. It is tough going even then, if we let the coat get too dense.


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## simplepeace (Oct 29, 2005)

Can you bathe & of course super dry the dog first? I know it may make the mats worse, but it *might* allow the clippers to work better. It is hard to make them work on a really dirty coat.

Believe me I know what giving that bath would be like - I used to be a bather for a groomer, and I used to beg for some dogs to be clipped before the bath. They just laughed at me and said they would rather pay me to spend a few hours on the dog than to trash their clippers & blades  As soon as I had the dog 100% dry they would shave it down, it sometimes made me want to cry.... 

Do you know anyone who has a cattle dryer, or a similar forcer air dryer? If you can bathe the dog and use the cattle dryer, you will blow out much of the coat (get it dry faster and then be able to clip more easily. I know chances are slim, but when people show cattle they sometimes have them.

Also, a different blade might be just what you need, obviously Willow knows what she is talking about. 

Even though it might not be pretty, I have had luck with a #7 skip tooth on my Komondor. I don't know why (Willow could you guess?) but it seemed to get under / into mats easier (and to do little bits at a time) slow going, but MUCH easier than my # 10. Maybe it is just me, or just my dogs coat?

My Kom is bathed regularly, but I let him go a few months during the winter without a trim and his skin is super sensitive so I have to do it a little at a time, and I can't use anything higher than a #10 or he itches for ages.

Ley us know how you work it out. Sorry, I really went on here....


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## Maura (Jun 6, 2004)

I don't know if this will help. When I had a standard poodle, my groomer showed me this trick, which I've modified for the feeble of heart. Slide a metal comb under the mat, just as far as you can, not neccesarilly all the way. With small scissors, cut from the metal comb up to the end of the fur mat (away from the dog). The comb is to keep you from poking the dog. Make an incision every half inch. Comb out. You might not be able to comb out the mat if it is as bad as you say, but if you work at it this way you can then cut the fur down to a reasonable length and just leave the rest, close to the skin. Once the fur grows a little you can clip off the rest or possible comb it.


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## Willow101 (Feb 20, 2008)

Actually, one of the newer clipping techniques is .... bath the dog and towel off excess water...then clip. The theroy is the water loosens the mats and the blade can get under them easier. I have only used this method a couple of times and didn't like it. However I freely admit I am from the old school....the group that says you don't bath a dog matted....and there are other groomers who just swear by the bath first, clip wet method.

I have no idea why the #7 would clip easier than the #10 blade. The 10 cuts shorter than the 7 so should slip under any mats easier. The #7 blade is the 'work horse' blade in that most dogs that are stripped down are done with that blade. It leaves a bit more hair than the #10 while still getting most of the hair off and also managing to get under most mats. The 10 and 15 blades are used when the mats are right tight to the skin and you have to really get close.

Just keep in mind that any time you clip with any of these blades you do have to be careful of sun burn for about two weeks. The closer you clip the more serious the concern.

Willow101


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## simplepeace (Oct 29, 2005)

Thanks Willow. I think it is the skip tooth part that I like the best, not necessarily the #7. I don't know why.... maybe because even the Kom mats are never too bad. I haven't tried another skip tooth blade size, but I might try a 10 skip tooth for my other dog.

Tallpines, it is going to be a chore no matter what. There is no easy fix, and first time is going to be difficult and may take a few weeks - an hour or 2 at a time. Hence the reason a groomer would probably charge at least $175 just to shave down the task you are facing. It will be labor intensive no matter what tools you have. 

It will probably be best to take it a little at a time, lots of good advice here. The dog might not look pretty, but as long as you are making headway that is all that is important. Once you get it managable it will be easier to upkeep.

Bless you! I grew up with a Saint, and that coat is great for winter, but it would be miserable for heat.


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## Willow101 (Feb 20, 2008)

Simplepeace....if you are anywhere near Binghamton or Elmira, NY....bring the dog to me and I will clip her for you for free.

As for the skiptooth blades. They are the original blades that groomers used for years. In the last fifteen years the manufacturers came up with the F blades....7F, 5F, etc. These blades clip the same length as the other blades of the same number but they are to "finish" the dog....hence the F designation. There are more teeth which produces a more uniform and finished look but the teeth prevent the blade from going through tangled coats as easily. Anyone looking to purchase a couple of blades to get their own dog done should not waste money on the F blades. Professional groomers buy them because they are putting out dog after dog that must be a professional job. The pet owner can achieve almost the same results with the skip tooth blades. Obviously, if you want that smooth professional finish then you should get both the skip tooth and the F blade but it would seem like a waste of money to me. Groomers did just fine without the F blades for decades.

Willow101


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## Willow101 (Feb 20, 2008)

After I sent the last message I got to thinking and I would extend the 'free' offer to anyone interested in learning how to clip their own dog. One lesson isn't going to come close to making anyone a professional but it might provide enough information to safely groom your pet.

The offer would be....bring your dog and your equipment and you can learn on your own dog. I will do some clipping and you will do some clipping with supervision. The purpose of the offer is to assist the owner is improving coat care for their own dog....not create dozens of new groomers. 

If anyone wants to take me up on the offer please email privately.

Willow101


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## Itsme (Jan 12, 2008)

Willow, you said you clipped cats...........I've always been curious as to how this was done.As far as physically controlling the animal. 
Do you lightly sedate them first?


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## Willow101 (Feb 20, 2008)

Itsme said:


> Willow, you said you clipped cats...........I've always been curious as to how this was done.As far as physically controlling the animal.
> Do you lightly sedate them first?


Cats are most definitely a challenge but most can be done without sedation. Most cats that I have clipped in the past are long haired cats owned by people who have at least spent some time brushing. The cats are desensitized to being brushed. Those cats often accept the clippers if you move quietly and confidently.

Cats that don't have the benefit of owners that groom them can be a challenge but some can be done without anesthesia. The key to cat grooming is to have a "cat day" at the grooming shop. No barking dogs, play soft music....everything toned down. Its good to have an assistant to hold the cat and 'coo' to it, although the assistant is a luxury to many groomers.

An assistant can hold the cat by the scruff of the back of the neck and that sometimes calms the cat but scruffing it should be a last resort as scruffing can hide bad behaivor until the cat has had enough and lashes out anyway. 

Another tool is the elizabethan (E) collar. This prevents the cat from biting...although it doesn't prevent them from scratching. Some groomers will use vet wrap and wrap their feet so they can't claw. I never did that...and got scratched a lot.

Cat grooming is grooming in slow motion. No discipline...or at least that was what worked best for me. I found that any scolding could lead to an escalation of bad behavior instead of a reduction in the behavior. Groomers that have a large cat clientele are usually groomers that really love cats. Those that don't like cats, don't understand them and often create more problems because of incorrect handling.

And of course there is tranquilzing and anesthetizing. I have groomed both and don't like either. The tranquilized cat is an explosion waiting to happen. Sort of like a horse with certain tranquilizers. They tolerate a lot more but have the potential to explode in bad behaivor without warning. I don't like working on cats that are completely under because I hate to see them have to have that. Anesthesia is always a risk....but sometimes it is the only option.

Bathing a cat can be an experience but they now have 'cat bathing cages' that work rather well.

One important thing to remember if grooming or bathing at home. Never put a leash on a cat that provides control at the neck. Use a harness. You are much more likely to do damage to the cat by using a slip lead than you are with a dog. The cat doesn't have the muscle mass in the neck that the dog has and therefore doesn't have the extra protection from injury. Plus most cats are not leash trained so putting the lead on them only frightens them more.

I know there are other groomers on this list and I am sure they will have little tricks of the trade that I am not aware of. Hopefully they will chime in on this discussion.

If you plan on clipping your own cat I highly recommend never using any blade but a #10 blade. The blades with wider teeth are much more likely to catch and rip the skin.

Hope all this is what you were looking for. I tend to write books and I apologize for that. Now that I am retired I have too much time on my hands!!

Willow101


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## tallpines (Apr 9, 2003)

We've made remarkable progress since my first post.

Because I thought we needed to leave a little length, I had started with a #4 skip tooth. And that led to all the frustration.

After reading your suggestions, I put the #10 blade back on and used the dig and lift procedure.

It worked really well but we were only able to work about 15 minutes because Reggie (the dog) was getting pretty stressed.
Last evening we made lots more progress working for about 30 minutes.

It isn't pretty but at least Reggie is feeling some relief from the heat.
We haven't begun an approach to the chest and head area yet, and the legs still need some work.

We got the tail freed up and he is wagging that tail with renewed vigor!

But, in working around the tail/butt area I discovered tape worm tags.
More advice needed, please-----

Were do I get med for tape worm elimination and how much for a 175 pound dog?


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