# Wiring in a back-up generator



## GunMonkeyIntl (May 13, 2013)

The wife and I just went through our first power outage on a private well, which precipitated the purchase of a generator. Through the outage, I plugged it in through my dryer outlet. Obviously, that is a less than ideal solution for several reasons. 

Using the double-male cord is creepy. 

Because I can't see any other houses, and I had to have the main turned off, I had no idea when the power came back on.[

And, some folks that know electricity better than I are of the opinion that becuase your neutral bar is still on the grid, if a line-worker doesn't properly ground out a repair before working, that they could get a dangerous ground shock.
Either way, if a lineman is hurt in my area, I don't want to be the one plugged in though my dryer outlet- so, I'm looking for a better solution.

I would prefer to do the work myself. Partly because I'm a cheap bastard, and partly because I like to build/fix my own stuff so that i know exactly how it works in the future. I've looked at some of the commercially available transfer switch kits, and have no doubt about my ability to wire them in properly, but I'm not sure if they are exactly what I want.

My ideal solution would be one where I can leave the main on, as well as a single breaker for a lighted room (so that I know when power comes back), and have the ability to provide (safe) power from the generator to every circuit in my house as needed.

My minimum would be to power my well pump, water heater, kitchen receptacles, and garage (freezer). But, if it was exceptionally hot/cold, I'd like to be able to shut everything else off and give the house a shot of heat/AC.

The commercial transfer switch kits I'm seeing are 10-circuit: 6-15amp and 4-20amp. The 20amp switches can be linked to support a single 220v circuit. So, if I hook up the well and water heater, there go the 4-20amp switches, and I'm left with 6-15amp switches. My kitchen and garage recetacles are both 20amp circuits, so I'm not sure if this product will work for me. 

What do others on here use for putting their back-up power into their home wiring?


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## NorthwoodsMike (Jun 10, 2013)

I will be using this.

http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/rough-electrical/load-centers/accessories/qo-generator-interlock-kit-indoor/p-1736521-c-6434.htm

It was the most cost effective solution I found-but I'm not sure it's what you are after, as it essentially is the same as backfeeding through your dryer plug, albeit the circuit is dedicated to the generator, and with this switch, is it impossible to have the generator and main "on" at the same time. 

The problem is it won't tell you when power is back on, but that is easy enough to determine by flipping a few breakers. I don't think it solves the neutral issue, but the interlock seems to be a code-compliant way to properly install.


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## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

use a transfer switch.

or a inter lock on the breaker box

http://www.caes.uga.edu/Publications/pubDetail.cfm?pk_ID=6275

or you can just run primary circuits
http://www.transferswitchplace.com/content/10-gentran


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## moeh1 (Jan 6, 2012)

The transfer switch I have has several 15 A circuits but it is UL approved to use these on 20 A circuits. You have the full 20A when on the power company side, but only 15A when on the generator.


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## Post_Oakie (Aug 20, 2012)

If the utility discovered that I used anything other than a transfer switch installed by one of their engineers, they'd cut me off. It is purely a matter of safety-- yours, as well as theirs. The transfer switch completely isolates the utility lines from your generator. Line workers have enough on their hands during a power outage without dealing with potentially live wires. It would be a simple matter to install a light on the utility side of the transfer box to let you know when the power is back on.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Check your local codes and with the power company. They will probably only allow a transfer switch, and it may be required that it be installed by a licensed electrician.. 

If you are allowed to do it yourself, buy a good quality transfer switch and be sure you know what you are doing. Follow the instructions to a T... 

If you are required to hire an electrician, but still do it yourself and someone does get hurt, is it worth the money you saved?


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## puttster (Oct 4, 2013)

Never thought of making an alarm to recognize when the power is back on but it seems like a good idea. You are thinking of leaving the main breaker on, to power a circuit to light a lamp but the way you are backfeeding the generator will also power the lamp. 

Maybe you could backfeed 120 and only use half the circuits. Then when the power came on the other half would light up?


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## kycrawler (Sep 18, 2011)

i use a 200 amp Ronk transfer switch outside on the pole it is a double pole single throw switch that completely cuts me from grid power . the electrician from our electric co-op installed it for me very reasonable


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## wharton (Oct 9, 2011)

Cheapest SAFE, LEGAL thing to do is to install an interlock and backfeed the #2 and 4 slots with a 30 amp. breaker. If you have a common brand panel, the manufacturer will have the specific interlock available. If not, your local supply house will have access to a outfit that can build a listed, labeled part for just about any panel. They run about $75-150 more than off the shelf units. I have done many of these installations and they make a lot more sense to me, as compared to the work, and cost involved with a transfer switch that limits your options to whatever circuits you initially decided to route through the switch. My own place has a main and two sub-panels. With an interlock, a 5500 watt genny, and careful switching, I can run everything (roughly 75 breaker spaces in use) as long as the genny isn't overloaded. 
IMHO, if you are reasonable handy, a transfer switch is a liability as compared to an interlock. OTOH, for those that can't or won't deal with the process, an auto-start backup is probably best.


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## cruffleluficus (Nov 16, 2012)

I just installed this on Saturday. The only 220V circuit I needed was for the well pump. Other than that, I just went through and selected the circuits that were most important: freezer, fridge, water heater (it's gas so there's only a small blower on it), the basement den lighting because it's cozy and where the fireplace is, and the lights in one bathroom. I still have one unused because that circuit is in another panel and I decided to tackle it later. It was easy to install, maybe 3-4 hours start to finish including having to map out the breaker panel.


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## puttster (Oct 4, 2013)

Here's an idea for telling you when the power is back on though it might be dangerous. You could turn off the main breaker and use the suicide plug in the dryer outlet. Where the main wires come into the main breaker, loosen one of the lugs and slip one wire from lamp cord into it. Ground the other end. Run the lamp cord into the house and plug a lamp or alarm into it.

putts


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## Guest (Nov 20, 2013)

puttster said:


> Here's an idea for telling you when the power is back on though it might be dangerous. You could turn off the main breaker and use the suicide plug in the dryer outlet. Where the main wires come into the main breaker, loosen one of the lugs and slip one wire from lamp cord into it. Ground the other end. Run the lamp cord into the house and plug a lamp or alarm into it.
> 
> putts


I'd never do this . Nuff Said !


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## wharton (Oct 9, 2011)

WV Hillbilly said:


> I'd never do this . Nuff Said !


 Great idea actually  Heck you would have lamp cord, with absolutely no overcurrent protection, zero short circuit protection, and it would only trip out once the transformer fuse blew on the high voltage side, which is to say, never in this case. The other interesting thing is the poster recommends hooking the lamp cord into the lugs of the incoming service without knowing if, or when, the power is going to be re-energized.

Wow, I have occasionally warned against some spectacularly stupid and potentially fatal advice I have seen offer here, when it comes to the antics of amateur electricians, but this has set a new bar.


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## hornetd (Nov 1, 2011)

You can wire a two circuit breaker panel that is laboratory listed as suitable for use as Service Equipment in parallel with the main breaker so that it only has a fifteen ampere breaker for, say, the stairway lights. You nipple the small breaker enclosure off of one side of the Main Service Equipment Enclosure and tap the power off of the Service Entry Conductors using electrical testing laboratory listed taps. There is more than enough room in the wiring trough of a modern panel to do this. There are some inspectors that will insist that the taps have to be made in a separate enclosure but in my UN-humble :duel: opinion they are off their soundings and making up rules as they go. 

--
Tom Horne


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## Sawmill Jim (Dec 5, 2008)

Here I used the noise transfer system . Turn off main, power up a 40 a dp breaker and plug it in to generator .:whistlin: When the wife gets feed up with the noise I stop generator turn off 40 a dp breaker and flip on main . If nothing happens go to bed get up later and repeat . Cheep and easy . Anyway here they bridge any wires they are working on so if it isn't right there goes your generator .:shrug:

Here we are in the land of chicken houses lots of big automatic start generators ,but who in their right mind working for the electric Co trusts them not to malfunction :nono:


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