# Sticky  Advice for a new beekeeper



## Beeman

I'll start this and matbe others can add to it.

The first thing a new bee keeper will need is equipment and the first equipment is a hive. Do yourself a favor and do some research before buying a hive. If you are buying your woodware find a supplier you are comfortable with that makes their woodware. Then stick to that supplier so all of your equipment is interchangeable. Believe it or not different suppliers use different internal dimensions on some of their equipment. When you start mixing it's not the end of the world but it sure can be annoying at times.


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## sheeplady

Don't be tempted to buy used equipment unless you know the source. Good way to pick up diseases. 
Find a beekeeping club in your area and join. Best way to learn, hang out with other beekeepers.Maybe one will take you on as a beginner and let you do some hands on when they work with their hives. Invest in a good beesuit, veil and gloves. And a smoker. 
Subscribe to beekeeping magazines. Go to library and get books out on beekeeping. 
I had as my mentors , several older gentleman, all in their 80's who over the years taught me a lot. Sadly, they have all passed on. Its sad that more young people are not getting into beekeeping. Its fun, addictive, rewarding and a great sideline business. And keeping bees on your property will greatly increase the pollination of your own gardens and orchards. Kate in New York


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## King Bee

Don't forget the hivetool. Beesuit, Smoker, and Hivetool are all that are required. 

Other good stuff:

Frame lifter, frame rest, bee brush, queen catcher.


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## J McCarpenter

Beeman said:


> I'll start this and matbe others can add to it.
> 
> The first thing a new bee keeper will need is equipment and the first equipment is a hive. Do yourself a favor and do some research before buying a hive. If you are buying your woodware find a supplier you are comfortable with that makes their woodware. Then stick to that supplier so all of your equipment is interchangeable. Believe it or not different suppliers use different internal dimensions on some of their equipment. When you start mixing it's not the end of the world but it sure can be annoying at times.



The good supply manufaturer, like Mann Lake in minnesota and Dadants in Illinios are two of the largest and best manufaturers of bee equipment. Their parts are readily interchangable, for which I have done for years with out problems. Dadants prices can at times be scary while Mann Lakes are quite reasonable but if you are going to start off right don't second guess yourself and buy low cheap quality. Go with good priced products from leader in the industry.


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## Cara

What magazine would be best for a yongster jsut starting? He's only 10, but an excellent reader.


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## justgojumpit

I haven't bought into the magazines, but let him read everything in beemaster.com's backyard beekeeping course: http://www.beemaster.com/honeybee/beehome.htm this site has tons of useful information, and should keep your son reading for quite a while!

justogjumpit


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## Cara

Thanks! I just printed the first "lesson" for him to read at bedtime.


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## justgojumpit

good. let me know how he likes it!

justgojumpit


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## The Quiet Man

Just curious. I have some acreage inside a national forest in northern Idaho three miles from Canada. Would this area be too cold to raise bees?


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## MullersLaneFarm

There are Canadian beekeepers, so you should be okay. Keep your hives protected from the wind and in an area that receives plenty of south and east sun.


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## Bouncenhumble

The Quiet Man said:


> Just curious. I have some acreage inside a national forest in northern Idaho three miles from Canada. Would this area be too cold to raise bees?


As a kid I lived in Utah. Dan (my boss, father figuer, and best friend) and I ran 500 hives. I actually started out mowing lawns for him when I was about 7. Ever since then I have been inthralled with them. Now all I have is 10 hives, HUGE change for me. One of the cooliest things for me is when I made a small 2 frame observation hive (super cool teaching tool, and you will learn a TON also). If you can't get a lot of equipment. That would be a good place to start. You won't get any real amount of honey, so any extracting eq you won't need. Hive tool and smoker are probbly the only things you HAVE to have. (depending on how brave you are) Vail, gloves, coveralls, if you like.

A lot of the bees in Canada are moved down some where in the States durring the hard winter months. The ones that are left are taken care of in a few differant ways. Some put insolation around the hives, and put in very protected areas. My best advice would probbly be to ask the extention office in your area tho.


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## mulliganbush

My friend was commenting that he made it a point to never wear strong cologne or aftershave when working his bees. I don't know if that's been mentioned.

Ray


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## AppleAment

I'm still a Comp-Desk Homesteader (we're still saving), but my Grandmother (Maria Ament) was an acomplished Bee-Keeper (as well as Horse Trainer, and still is an Awsome Grandma), and she highly recommended that anyone who wants to keep bees do the following:

Get Stung. On Purpose. 
Start with one Bee, and allow yourself a week to heal-up.
Next 2-3 Stings, but still just a week for healing-up.
Move on to 3-4 Stings - give yourself a month.
Double your stings - give yourself a month.
Move up the ladder adding 4-12 stings per time, every month - or two.
When you can get stung by around 150 bees and still function the next day - you're ready to keep bees on a good sized scale (about 10-20 hives).

(Total time to be prepared 1-2 years).

Also, she mentioned, try to make the stings below the head - above the head and you could pretty seriously hurt yourself.

I don't know if I want to follow Grandma's Advice, when I start. 

She said after toughening yourself that you should re-toughen with one good round of stings every year or two, but otherwise be sane and try to avoid bee-stings like a normal individual. She also recommended pulling out stingers pretty well right away and then cleaning yourself up with Apple-Cider Vinegar (which stings like the nines...I know 'cause that's how my stings were cleaned as a wee one).

I'm not ACTUALLY advising this - just telling you about my Grandma's interesting method.

- Apple Ament
Obviously, if you do want to try Grandma's Method ~ make darned sure you aren't allergic to bees first!


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## Philbee

One thing a person may want to do before getting involved with having bees is to find out first if they are alergic to bee stings. We had a young lady in our bee club a couple of years ago that went to the trouble and expense of attending a beekeeping class and purchasing a few hives to later find out that she was allergic to bee stings. What a dissapointment!


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## Jack Parr

I would recommend using medium sized boxes if one is concerned with lifting heavy weights. I now wish I had not started with deeps as brood boxes. They can become very heavy if the bees store lotsa honey and pollen in them. Plus the medium frames are easier to pull versus the deep frames if the bees tend to build uneven comb, which they probably will do.

The boxes are simple to build if one is inclined to do so. I bought new cypress wood boxes from Rossman Apiaries for starting but since then I build/make everything, top to bottom including some frames. I use salvage wood found around my town placed on the street for trash pick-up. Sometimes one can find good cypress, pine, redwood, fir, cedar, good exterior plywood discarded from home remodling jobs that people seems to be always doing around here where I live. Most any lumber will do if it is kept painted and it will last for a long time if the boxes are placed on a stand and in the sun for most of the day. However the wood for boxes should be 3/4 inches thick, for simplicity, because the equiptment sizes are generally based on that thickness. However one can do anything in anyway with beekeeping equiptment that suits; The bees don't care. 

The wooden frames are fairly inexpensive and really a toss-up between buying and making. Well the frames are inexpensive but the shipping is now costing around $ 1.00 per pound according to my last order so...

I started with one piece all plastic but from purchasing nucs equipped with wooden frames, and using wooden frame, some bought, some home made for holding comb taken from colony removals I now have a mixture of both. I recently bought some medium one piece all plastic black Pierco which has a lavish application of wax that seems to make the bees draw out faster ? ? ? 

One thing I would strongly recommend is, at first, go into the hives frequently, weather and temperature permitting, and remove any and all comb that is not where it's suppose to be. The bees have their own ideas where they want to place comb and they will make a mess of things, not for them, for the beekeeper. 

I would use 10 frames in the brood boxes and 9 frames in the honey supers. I found that 9 frames in the brood boxes tended to make the bees draw too much unwanted comb. I have had excellent results with 9 frames in the honey supers.

Hope this helps.


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## ReddRubyyDoo

I live in South East Oklahoma City....It is country area.

I have always heard to buy fresh honey within a modest 20 mile radius. If you have real bad allergies and stuff.

Problem is, I cant afford to raise bees, though I would love to. 
Do you all know of anyone in that area that sells it?

If not, How much does a spinner (?), and stuff start to run?


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## Philbee

I would like to suggest a book. "Beekeeping for Dummies" by Howland Blackston who is a beekeeper and co-owner of bee-commerce.com

The book has lots of photos and is easy to read and understand. The book is excellent for beninners and excellent as a reference for more advanced beekeepers as well.

Philbee


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## Philbee

For RedRubyyDoo,

If you go to www.beeculture.com and then click on to "Who's Who in North American Beekeeping" and then go to your state, you will find names, telephone numbers and e-mail addresses of people who are in Beekeeping clubs. I looked at the list in Oklahoma and there are quite a few people. I'll bet that you will find someone there who will help you out. 

Best wishes, -------- Philbee


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## Gideon

One does not need a great deal of gear to begin. Dad never slung his but used a simple warmed butcher knife to cut the cone. A soft wide brush is needed to simplify "pushing" the bees off the racks. I have robbed many hives without a veil but use one now. Do not be afraid of getting stung but if they get "riled" just walk away till they settle down a bit. Walking around the hives every day or two gets them "tamed" to you. Be careful not to mash one because they give off an odor alarm and you will be swarmed with angry bees(reason for the brush). Having a screened in room is great but if not just use your kitchen. Make sure the bees are all brushed gently off before bringing in your treasure. Best to you.


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## LindaVistaFarm

My gramps used to keep bees. He had ,I think, 12 hives. I used to work with him. He never used anything buy a smoker. No suit, veil ect. He used to make a beard out of bees. He tried to teach me about bee keeping but I was young and not interested. I am now in my senior years and regret that I never did pay much attention to him. So many things I wish I had payed more attention to from him.

Johnny


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## Bladesmith

A couple of questions I'm having trouble finding answers to.

1) I'm starting off with one hive, and a package of bees obtained locally. How much can/will this hive expand? How can I keep myself down to a managable number of hives? I only want to produce enough bees and honey for my homestead, and a little extra honey top sell. Being disabled, I don't want to end up with a dozen hives.

2) When is the best time to start my hive here in Central Florida??


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## sugarbush

Bladesmith

You can run as few hives as you like. There is no law saying that you have to expand. Your hive will throw at least one reproduction swarm each year. You don't have to capture it and chances are you will not even notice a swarm half the time. The best thing to do would be to locate a beekeeper in the area who would be willing to split your hive and take the split every year. If you need help finding somebody let me know, I can locate somebody in your area probably pretty easily who would be willing to save splits.
Your state has a law requiring the destruction of all feral honey bees colonies so it is better if you did not just let them swarm.

You will need at least 6 extra supers for your hive. You have a really long season and your colony will expand probably into 80-90 frames over the season.

The best time to start is when you can get a package. I would say that March is a good time for florida but finding a package before April probably will not happen.


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## Bladesmith

Thanks Sugarbush.

based on your info I'm seriously rethinking beekeeping. I got my entire startup kit from Dadants BEFORE my health issues came up, and doubt I could handle it now.

Anyone need a starter set? :Bawling:


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## GlennPearman

My 17 yr. old daughter is learning beekeeping for her senior project. I am so jazzed about assisting her as this is always something I have wanted to do. We went to a local club meeting last week and were embraced with open arms... just amazing! 

My city does not allow beekeeping but since I have a wild hive in the tree in my front yard, what's one more in the back? Tomorrow we get to extract honey from about 10 hives. On Sunday we are going to assist with splitting a hive so we can have a working hive before her project ends in March. I already let my daughter know that dad gets the hive after that.


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## beerancher

The best advise anyone can give to a new bee keeper is to read read read and then get a hive. The second best advise I can give is if your getting into bees to make a lot of money run the other direction quick. and oh did I mention to read


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## Kats

I'm in upstate NY. Can anyone recommend a good supplier for the bees themselves? I think I'll have to get them shipped because I don't think there is a supplier locally?

Thanks.


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## bookfarmer

I've toyed with the idea of having a hive, but have decided I can't add that work on top of everything else. And there is a local producer who has excellent honey.

However, there are several "bee trees" in the woods around here. I've been curious to see whether there is a difference in taste between his honey and the wild stuff in these trees. Is there any way to get this wild honey safely?

Thanks.
bookfarmer


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## Me Beekeeper

*Several points for new beekeepers.*
I would tell new beekeepers to seek out their local bee clubs and become a member. Regardless of ones own knowledge or experience, the need is present to stay current with what works and what doesn't. It's always good to be able to compare notes with others on how they have dealt with a situation you might have or eventually avoid by hearing it. Learn from others mistakes. 
:lookout: Another point is there is strength in numbers. When a town decides they need an ordnance to control your bees, it's the local association or club that will come to your aid. To be a member is cheap insurance. :icecream: We also have a concern with the new rush of hobby beekeepers that get their hives and bees, is with their training. If they aren't aware of and can identify the pests and disease that's likely to infest their hives, they'll be spreading it for miles around. We can't stress the value of Bee Schools enough to those interested in becoming a beekeeper.


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## billybobaz

Got This Plan, Whats Wrong With My Thinking. I Am Building 6 Foot Block Fence Around My 1.1 Acre Property. I'm In The Lower Desert Area Of Az. Plan To Build Two Single Story Hives To Place On The Two Corners Of The Fence As I Am Not As Interested In The Mass Production Of Honey As I Am In The Polination Power Of The Bees. I Will Probably Try To Find Someone To Actually Harvest The Honey When It Is Apparent That The Hives Need It. My One Neighbor Is About 300 Ft Away And The Other One Is About 70 Feet. Due To The Lack Of Natural Vegetation In The Area There Doesn't Seem To Be Many Bees In The Area, Hence The Need For Hives. A Little Honey Once In The While Isn't A Bad Perk Either. So.... Are There Serious Holes In My Master Plan?


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## SLD Farm

I am interested in starting to keep bees. I signed up for a local beekeeping class in January. What would the initial investment be for say 1 hive and the equipment to work it? Nothing fancy just the basics for now. I am in eastern ohio, about 12 miles off the Ohio River. 
Thanks!


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## Hankdog1

billybobaz said:


> Got This Plan, Whats Wrong With My Thinking. I Am Building 6 Foot Block Fence Around My 1.1 Acre Property. I'm In The Lower Desert Area Of Az. Plan To Build Two Single Story Hives To Place On The Two Corners Of The Fence As I Am Not As Interested In The Mass Production Of Honey As I Am In The Polination Power Of The Bees. I Will Probably Try To Find Someone To Actually Harvest The Honey When It Is Apparent That The Hives Need It. My One Neighbor Is About 300 Ft Away And The Other One Is About 70 Feet. Due To The Lack Of Natural Vegetation In The Area There Doesn't Seem To Be Many Bees In The Area, Hence The Need For Hives. A Little Honey Once In The While Isn't A Bad Perk Either. So.... Are There Serious Holes In My Master Plan?


You just need to just rent some bees for pollination and buy your honey. There is no need to get bees unless you plan on working them. There is nothing worse in the beekeeping community then being called a beehaver.


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## poppyandnan

Well, I don't know about bee stings, but once when my hubby and a friend were hog hunting in Louisiana, a young boy came up to them with a small water moccasin and told them to let it bite them............to make them immune to snake bites. Needless to say, they never went back! lol I could deal with a bee sting better than a snake bite..Yikes!

This happened in a remote part of the Louisiana swamps.

AMERICA...LAND OF THE FREE...BECAUSE OF THE BRAVE!


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## beedog

To wear gloves or not to wear gloves; that is the question??

what do you do?


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## no1cowboy

I do not wear gloves


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## ChristieAcres

beedog said:


> To wear gloves or not to wear gloves; that is the question??
> 
> what do you do?


Well, let me tell you a little story...

3rd year beekeeping, this happened: I went out, intending to just lift the cover, pull a frame or two, and that is it (yes, used a smoker, first). I just had on gloves which were cloth on top, so might as well have worn no gloves. Had no problem with the first frame, but when I lifted the 2nd frame, it slipped, smashing a few bees. A lot of bees covered the tops of my hands and began stinging me. I didn't flinch, but replaced the frame, put the cover on, then did the zig zag through my orchard trees, while removing all the bees from my hands. One hand took 10 stings while the other was closer to 15. I went in, removed the stingers, took Benadryl, and wasn't too concerned. I awoke the following morning, not sure how I slept through it, but my hands were so incredibly swollen, it was unreal. I took more Benadryl, but noticed that was one finger, on my right hand, that was far more swollen than the others. That is when I told my DH, "time for the ER." I was treated for Cellulitus! Had I waited, I would have lost that finger within 24 hours (told that in ER). So, the earlier story of becoming resistant to bee stings by building up isn't exactly accurate. Some folks do, but some folks don't! I had sustained stings over a 3 year period, very regularly, and my hands felt great due to that (BVT is real). Yet, notice the # of stings that sent me to ER...25 total. 

Yes, I wear gloves, but don't smoke my bees at all unless I am moving more than a frame or two, and also moving boxes. Those starting out should have all the protective gear, until they gain experience and confidence. After my experience, I'll continue to wear my gloves, thanks. 

I'd recommend New Beekeepers get 4# packages, as that will give them a better start.


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## AverageJo

Yes, I wear gloves. I'm still relatively new to bees, so I wear veil and gloves at all times. As I also can't stand things crawling on me, I also wear long pants tucked into boots and long sleeves. It all gets pretty hot in the summer, but I feel more comfortable around the girls this way.


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## goodtime

u could get into the local beekeepers asso. and pickup some things 2nd hand some frown on this but u most likely would not have a problem from disease from an asso. esp. for just a single hive or colony also before an investment u could try some hands on with someone there u might have a change of heart when u pull the top off lol u never know hooe not as for the investment suit, hivebody, various equip. and bees unless u catch a local swarm upwards of $300


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## badkarma00

My wife and I are wanting to start a hive ourselves. We're studying now, and the links here look like they will really help. One thing I was wondering, though, is about threats.
We live in West Tn, near the Miss line. Are there an particular threats to bees or their hives that I would need to watch out for, or try to take preventive measures against? I'm thinking more along the lines of a predatory nature, than anything else.

Any help much appreciated. So glad I found this site!


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## Oldskool

I have a sorta silly question hopefully asking here is ok
Im deathly allergic to bee's if we had a bee house far away from our house would it dramatically increase the number of bee's around our house or would it be sorta the same as how many bee's are just out there anyways....


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## indypartridge

Oldskool said:


> Im deathly allergic to bee's


Do you carry an epi-pen? I don't want to doubt you, but I've heard so many people say "deathly allergic", when in fact, they just have normal reactions to bee stings (swelling). 



> if we had a bee house far away from our house would it dramatically increase the number of bee's around our house or would it be sorta the same as how many bee's are just out there anyways....


If you're referring to "bees" as including wasps, yellow jackets, hornets, etc., then I'd vote for "sorta the same". I have several colonies in my backyard, less than 50 yards from the house, but up close to the house all I ever see are carpenter bees, mud daubers, and paper wasps.


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## alleyyooper

I'm with Indy on people who say they are highly or deathly allergic then don't even know what they are allergic to. Wasp and hornet venom is differnt than that of a honey bee.
I also have a problem with statements like deathly allergic and they don't carry a EPI PEN.
Honey bees many a time get the rap for the sting from a yellow jacket. When I get stung by a yellow jacket it feels like I have been burnt by an ember.

We have 6 colonies in our front yard, good for keeping sales persons polititions and church groups from knocking on the door and 9 colonies in the back yard.

Only time we see bees arounf the house is when the milk weed in the front door garden is in bloom and during extraction time. I am sure that they smell the honey as a result of the uncapping knife working. Honey just being in the honey house being bottled doesn't seem to draw them.

 Al


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## Coloneldad5

This is some good advise and information. I have just recently purchases 13 acres and built a house on it. I plan to start 1-2 hives this spring. I guess I need to be doing a lot more reading, but then again that is one reason I joined this site. Any advise or pointers is greatly appreciated.

I live in Northern Utah (almost in Idaho). 

Thanks


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## DanielY

A reaction to a sting is not always due to an allergy either. Sometimes it is where you got stung. My experience was with a hornet not a honey bee. I was stung in the upper lip after sucking a hornet out of a straw it had crawled into. The way I understand it now the reaction was caused from the venom reaching my sinuses and basically I snorted venom. It went through my body from the bottom of my feet to the top of my head instantly. The reaction was not just pain and swelling. I lost vision, very nearly lost consciousness. At times I am not sure I was not unconscious but still managed to stay on my feet. Sever disorientation. Almost unable to walk and never woudl have been able to drive etc. Inability to speak, sweating as well as other symptoms I just can't find the words for. basically a tingling all over my body. It took everything in me to walk 3 blocks to find help. Yes I was prescribed an epi pen and carried it for years until I got stung again. No reaction. I had not developed an allergy.
So just because you didn't have a bad reaction before does not mean you can't i recommend any bee keeper carries an epi pen just in case.


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## dancingbeefarms

A few ideas for the Newbees:

When just starting always suite up for protection until you get a feel for your comfort level. Also, Its also helpful to shadow an experienced beekeeper in their yard to learn from for an exchange of labor like helping to carry heavy deep brood boxes or carrying bucket of sugar water or corn syrup to help feed or applying pollen patties in late Feb or early spring (in zone 5).

I will never enter a new bee yard without protection. I see too many times at field clinics or seminars etc of someone thinking they are the next "bee whisperer" and don't need protection only to get "lit up" when someone else accidently drops a frame of bees or didn't allow enough time for the smoke to take effect, or just has a bunch of "hot" aggresive bees etc, etc.

Always get at least 2 colonies to start with. This helps get a frame of reference from one hive to another and helps in balancing out a weaker colonies etc.

Ask the doctor for an epi-pen prescription at your next physical. Not neccesarily for you but whomever may visit. I think shelf life is around a year in the fridge?

Label the colonies and take detailed notes with each visit,i.e. aggresiveness, brood pattern, new eggs, extra queen cells etc etc. You don't always have to dig (disrupt entire colony) to find the queen if you find new eggs.

Try not to get into the hive too much, give a couple weeks between visits unless you suspect queen cell/ activity or no activity at the hive entrance. Good observations can be made simply looking at the hive entrance activity on those warm sunny days or those occasional 50+ temps in the winter.

Equipment is for the beekeeper management and not always for the bees. They will set up shop in any cavity big enough that protects them from the weather as they have for thousands of years.

My 2 cents anyway


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## Ace68

My dad and i have been keeping bees for a few years now,and i allways wear a full suit,im slightly allergic to bees,but it hasnt stoped me.


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## GrannyG

I just loved this picture when I saw it today, so just posted it here for you bee lovers.....something just so special about honey in the comb....


http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.ph...80498366652.2014267.1052088106&type=1&theater


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## AmandaRose

Hi guys! I don't have any beekeeping experience, but I have tons of allergy experience. Epi-pens are best kept at room temp. For most homesteads the house is too far of a distance if someone is having a true anaphylaxis reaction. If you are concerned carry them with you. (I have a belt of sorts I carry with an emergency dose of all my allergy meds.) You can keep epi-pens after their expiration date as long as its not cloudy or discolored. Please though, don't give an epi unless its actually needed. Swelling above the arm pits, trouble breathing that kind of stuff. (hive and/or swelling below the arm pit are not reasons on there own to give an epi.) If you give an epi you need to call 911. They are fast acting, but last only 15 mins in most people.


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## motdaugrnds

Anyone know how many hives I would need to provide for my small family? We use at least a gallon of "raw" honey each month.


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## Queen Bee

SLD , look online for costs.. Many companies give a little better prices for complete hives.. Ask at your next meeting --about wooden ware, nucs, queens.. I bet they have someone who sells stuff.. it will save a boat load in shipping...and if there isn't someone, they will be able to direct you.

I would suggest that you not 'buy' into the idea that you NEED everything they sell... When I first started , I purchased everything I THOUGHT I might need.. And if you decide you do need it you can buy things along the way.. RE: You won't need extracting equip. the first yr.

Also, decide what type of operation you will run: will this be for your family use only or will you be selling 1000's lbs of honey each season? Will you be doing all the lifting? IF so, know that the full hive bodies can weigh put to 75lbs, the med supers we weighed 4yrs ago weighed 62lbs.. Hard to hand if you are 5'2" tall women... It might be best if you go with the 8frame garden hives... There are people who use all the same size supers and no hive bodies...Then, They are ALL interchangeable.. When I first started, I purchase 2 hive bodies, 2med. supers and 1 short supers for each hive.. Well the short supers are a pain because if I need to change out frames from one of them I ALWAYS end up with a med frame in that spot.


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## CFarmerLady

DH is allergic, but I am not. Should I just continue to buy my honey at the farmer's market or take the plunge once we get the farm started?


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## ehoneybees

What if you realized you have developed a honey allergy? they say it's also related to bee sting allergy. Is it still okay for me to continue with beekeeping or not anymore?

Thanks,


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## notasnowballs

Anybody got any info on liabilities of keeping bees? Is there insurance in case someone gets stung and is allergic? I have a neighbor that is allergic. I am a LONG way off from even thinking about bees, but my dream in the way off future, it would be maybe fun to have a hive on the back of the property fenced off with wood fence so it's not visible, with a lock on the gate so nobody can be stupid and get in. I just wanted enough honey for my family, nothing major. Just another step in the self sufficiency thing.


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## alleyyooper

Contact the agent that holds the coverage on your home.
Auto owners does cover your lilibilitys, for one such company.
Many won't.

 Al


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## wagvan

Thanks for this thread. I'm a Pastor and one of the trees on our property had a wild be colony that swarmed while we were having a salad luncheon. Some bee keepers just happened to be at the luncheon and asked if they could take the bees. I said sure. (Our church folks had no idea what they were talking about.) the went and got gear and a hive. I got some cool pics of them catching the swarm. So now I am hoping I can read and learn and get prepared to get a hive the next time these bees swarm next summer. I'll be following this thread with interest.


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## SueMc

I'm so excited! I just got off the phone with a local beekeeper and will be sending him a deposit for enough bees to start two hives this Spring. He gave me a number of equipment supplier's names and promised to meet with me at a beekeeping meeting Feb 1st to offer equipment suggestions. 
A friend of mine started out with bees a couple of years ago with the same man as a mentor and she's already expanded her bee yard and collected two wild swarms. 
It's exciting to know that there are experienced people who want to see new keepers succeed.


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## Shoestringer

Has anyone here ever taken a wild swarm? I see honeybees around in the garden and am very curious about putting them in my own hive. I haven't seen any neighbours with hives so I am hoping they are wild or escaped from someone farther away. 
Is there a better time of year to do it? Any tips?


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## alleyyooper

Lots of stuff on swarms on this site. use the search function on the upper right of the section.

Here is a link to some.

http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/livestock-forums/beekeeping/491215-swarms.html

http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/li...ping/446609-simple-great-working-bee-vac.html

So any way you will need a hive body and frames with foundation to start out You will also want real wax foundation to help them make up their mind to stay. 

You do know what a swarm is and what one looks like don't you?









They can be so low you will have to lift the branch to get a deep hive under them or up to 35 plus feet.

 Al


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## Shoestringer

Thanks! You have collected quite a few swarms, by the sound of it. I love the bee vac. What time of year do you find them? Do you post ads or have a friend in pest management or something who puts you onto them?


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## alleyyooper

We are on SEMBA's & MBA swarm removal list and a couple other internet list. Since it is against the law to kill honey bees in Michigan pest control companies that are reputable have asked beekeepers to remove bees also. we also have our name at the county animal control, county and city police depts., the local USDA office and the county extension office.
We are also on the list at the home office of Home Depot in Georgia. We have removed two swarms for them at our local store.

In this part of Michigan we start getting calls about mid June, the last one last summer was Sept 11th. Ones that late are pretty much a waste unless you have a couple extra deeps with honey for them or you can find the queen and marry the swarm into another hive.

 Al


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## tmbshorthorn

Hello All , 
Been wanting to get into Beekeeping. Wife thinks I'm loco. Is there anything that I can read up to get started ? Do I need to register or get a license ? Any input would be helpful. 
Thanks


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## alleyyooper

Some states it is required some not. 
Read every bee keeping book in the local library.
If you want to buy one bee keeping for dummies is a good one to start with.
Put your state in your profile so we know where your at.


 Al


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## tmbshorthorn

thank you for the info


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## ricktammye2

I'm brand new to the group and would love to win some seeds! Enter me in the drawing please.


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## benevolance

I got my first box of bees here at our new to us home... pretty excited...I have had the little fellas a week... I cannot believe how tame they are... I can take the lid off and the screen off in shorts and a t shirt in the middle of the day and not get stung... They do not even seem to care.


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## po boy

benevolance said:


> I got my first box of bees here at our new to us home... pretty excited...I have had the little fellas a week... I cannot believe how tame they are... I can take the lid off and the *screen off* in shorts and a t shirt in the middle of the day and not get stung... They do not even seem to care.


Which screen?


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## smccuen

Hey folks. I had just called in a Rx for a pair of EpiPens to the pharmacy when a friend directed me to the EpiPen website where you can download a discount card and, provided you have commercial insurance, get a discount on whatever your copay is. Can use the discount card repeatedly until the end of the year.
I hate that the discount isn't for people with no insurance since at the local CVS these pens cost $557 for a pair! No wonder my father, a physician, always just kept a bottle of epinephrine and some syringes in the refrigerator. EpiPen auto-injector is great for taking it anywhere you need to go, but the price is ludicrous. Trust me - this is NOT an ad for the maker....just a notice to those who could use the discount card.
Suzannah


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## sleep4centuries

Can anyone tell me if this is drone brood?


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## alleyyooper

Looks like normal worker brood to me. Drone brood will have rounded raised caps like the nose of a bullet.

 Al


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## BrendanBordin

Hi all bee-keeping beginners

Mostly beekeepers begin with only a few colonies to research on bee behaviour and get a little amount of honey to vend. The comprehensive knowledge about the bee behavior and how it respond in various situation is really important before starting this process. For every beginner it is essential to be familiar with bees.

You must know that in extreme heat during summer season, they live upto 6 weeks only which is a very short life span in comparison to winter and spring season.

This is the fact that the mother of all the bees both male and female referred as Queens that can survive up to 3 to 4 years.


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## motdaugrnds

BrendanBordin said:


> Hi all bee-keeping beginners
> 
> Mostly beekeepers begin with only a few colonies to research on bee behaviour and get a little amount of honey to vend. The comprehensive knowledge about the bee behavior and how it respond in various situation is really important before starting this process. For every beginner it is essential to be familiar with bees.
> 
> You must know that in extreme heat during summer season, they live upto 6 weeks only which is a very short life span in comparison to winter and spring season.
> 
> This is the fact that the mother of all the bees both male and female referred as Queens that can survive up to 3 to 4 years.


Since the bees only live 6 weeks during hot summers, it seems ludicrous to get into bee-keeping here in southern VA because our summers are hot/humid.


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## SmokeEater2

motdaugrnds said:


> Since the bees only live 6 weeks during hot summers, it seems ludicrous to get into bee-keeping here in southern VA because our summers are hot/humid.



But there are replacement bees hatching every day too.


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## alleyyooper

At the peak during a summer a 2 deep bee hive will have about 80 to 90,000 workers bees in it. The queen if in good health will be laying about 2 to 3 thousand eggs a day which hatch out every 21 days so the number is maintained till in the fall when the queen slows down her laying getting ready for winter. Workers only last about 6 weeks because they work them selves to death carrying nectar, pollen, and proplis and other chores in the hive such as fanning to move air about in the hive to evaporate moisture from nectar.

 Al


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## marusempai

motdaugrnds said:


> Since the bees only live 6 weeks during hot summers, it seems ludicrous to get into bee-keeping here in southern VA because our summers are hot/humid.


Each individual worker only lives six weeks. But that's still quite a long time for an insect, and thousands more hatch every day. It is quite hot and humid here, and there are LOTS of beekeepers, keeping LOTS of hives. 

Heck, most of the package bees that people start with come from the deep south - Georgia seems common. Georgia summers are like living in a pressure cooker. :hammer:


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## flemishfan

My sister and I are each looking to put a beehive up on our farms. We are not looking to do mass honey production, mostly this would be for pollination of fruit and veggie crops. I am organic and she is almost there. We are looking for any hints for starting and keeping a single hive that will have minimal interaction. I am also interested in the top bar (?) hives and if they will work in Michigan winters. Thanks!


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## Terri

To start with, 2 hives are better and easier than one. For example, bees are living things and sometimes living things die: if you have 2 hives and the queen in one of them dies, then you can move a frame with eggs from the queen right hive and the bees will raise up a new queen. 

The other thing is, bees are like livestock in that sometimes they need care. They do not need care all that often but they should be checked often enough so that *IF* they need care then you will catch it and provide what is needed. 

If you google beekeeping clubs you will probably find one in your area, where you can learn more about bees and also get what you need. The needs of a hive in Florida will be different from the needs of a hive in North Dakota, and local advice is better than on-line advice. 

People on-line are WILLING to give advice, but the advice from Florida might be bad advice for where you now live.


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## alleyyooper

What Terri is saying is to put your state in your profile.

I do not recommend top bar hives for any area of Michigan myself.
Lots of Michigan bee keeping clubs.


http://www.michiganbees.org/

http://www.michiganbees.org/about/clubs/


 Al


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## Dutchie

Cara said:


> What magazine would be best for a yongster jsut starting? He's only 10, but an excellent reader.


I bought the book "Beekeeping for Dummies" for myself. I bet your 10-year old would love that one.


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## Dutchie

Bladesmith said:


> Thanks Sugarbush.
> 
> based on your info I'm seriously rethinking beekeeping. I got my entire startup kit from Dadants BEFORE my health issues came up, and doubt I could handle it now.
> 
> Anyone need a starter set? :Bawling:


Try it anyway ... they don't need that much work/attention


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## indios

One thing I would suggest is find a bee mentor, there is nothing worse than having a bee problem with no one to ask, sure , there are all kinds of books, websites, internet, but a good hands on mentor is invaluable, As a beekeeper I always like to help the "newbees" Don't forget to drop off a small bottle of your honey, we always appreciate tasting other honey from different areas.


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## kra12top

Be safe! follow all rules


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## TroyT

New beekeeper question: We installed our first two nucs last week. When we installed the nucs we started feeding them sugar water and pollen patties. We checked the hives yesterday. We found one queen and in the other hive we didn't but we did see a great deal of capped brood. We are in a dearth right now and the bees seem to be storing sugar water honey. Is that normal?


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## ed/La

The bees will store the sugar water the same as nectar. Where do you live? Any pollen coming in? No big deal not finding queen as long as you have fresh brood (larva)


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## TroyT

We live in Western Washington. We have been seeing bees with "pollen pants" as the grand kids call them. They are also eating the pollen patties that we've provided.


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## ed/La

TroyT said:


> We live in Western Washington. We have been seeing bees with "pollen pants" as the grand kids call them. They are also eating the pollen patties that we've provided.


 If the bees are bringing in pollen they are bringing in nectar. I would stop feeding. You're flow has started.


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## TroyT

Ok, we will give it a shot. Thanks.


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## alleyyooper

I my self would keep feeding the syrup. If they were bringing in enough nectar they will stop taking the syrup. 

If they are still drawing out comb they will also need it.

 Al


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## TroyT

They are still drawing out comb. We put the nucs in about 2 weeks ago and they've not finished drawing out the 5 new frames in the brood boxes yet. We would like to be able to add one more brood box each this year before winter. According to the local bee supplier, when the buttercup is blooming, which it is, we are in a dearth even thou there is a lot of pollen around, mostly tree pollen.


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## alleyyooper

Keep giving them syrup. They will use it to make wax and they will stop sucking it from the feeders when they have had enough

 Al


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## TroyT

Has anyone ever tried restricting the queen to just one deep brood box? The topic was mentioned at our last bee club meeting.


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## ed/La

A lot of people do that. It is best with 10 frame deep boxes. If you keep it from getting honey bound it can work good. Here is a video. some guy shared his thoughts on it


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## TroyT

We installed 2 nucs 5 weeks ago. One hive is doing well and has it's second deep installed. The other hasn't grown much from it's original size? They have both been fed and given pollen patties. Is that generally a queen issue? Should I re-queen? I was thinking of adding a local split the weaker hive. I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks.


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## ed/La

May or may not be the queen. You could give a frame of brood or put a clean comb in middle of strong hive brood for 4 or 5 days and transfer to weak hive. . Put a board or something on ground under entrance and see if they are dragging larva out. Are they bringing in pollen, making comb? How much capped brood is in there. Queen could have been slow starter then you need 21 days to hatch.


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## TroyT

They haven't drawn out much new comb in the last 5 weeks. There is capped brood but the amount of capped brood is not growing, neither is the amount of drawn out comb. I would think that by now there would be more comb. The other hive setup on the same day already has a deep brood box installed. I will check for them pulling out brood.


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## ed/La

My suggestion is treat for mites and give frame of brood. They could have high mite count. Many or all nucs and packaged come with mites. With package the brood break helps break mite cycle because no brood. Only mites on bees waiting for new brood to lay eggs in. Nucs from warm winter climates could have high mite count coming out of winter because they have brood all winter and small number of bees in nuc Now would be good time to treat for mites. With the little brood you have it would be easy and fast to kill mites. What does the breeder of these bees recommend. Ask him mite count when he sold them. He probably doesn't know . One frame from this hive one frame from another throw in a queen and call it a nuc. Unhappy customer please help, make this right. I am not an expert. Perhaps Alleyooper will give his opinion


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## alleyyooper

What kind of foundation you useing? If it is plastic you need to take a bit of melted bees wax and coat them.

Or better yet set it aside and use real wax foundation in the hive. Use the plastic stuff if you catch a swarm.

 Al


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## Oxankle

Among the "essential tools" a bee suit was mentioned. I have been keeping bees for some seventy odd years now and have never owned a bee suit. I have always owned a net helmet and smoker, but I customarily work gentle bees with only smoke and my hive tool. Of course I have never had more than 15 hives---strictly a back-yard bee keeper.

On the other hand, my brother in Texas has bees so bad that he cannot go within twenty feet of them without a full suit---I told him to re-queen, but who knows when the 
Africans will take over again. 

Perhaps I should also note that once or twice I've had my hands swell so that they looked like duck's feet.


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## alleyyooper

I am with you never owned a bee suit or wore one. I just wear a light colored mens dress shirt long sleaves a sleave garter to kept them out of the insides of my sleaves and a helment with a face net.

We run from 100 colonies to 140 in 9 out yards and here at home. Yes I have gotten stung once so bad my face swelled to the point my own dad did not know me till I talked.
I was at a friends and walking a path with him down to where a swarm had settled when out of no where I got nailed by a bee over my right eye.

Most of my stings come from bees enjoying the sweat on my shirt and I bend pinching some on my tummy and they sting me.
No big deal 20 minutes later is hard for me to remember where I got stung.


Al


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## Oxankle

Apple: I agree with your grandmother on the "gettng used to bee stings" but for most people her routine can be accomplished with a dozen hives over two years. You can even do this unintentionally. As a matter of fact, if you keep bees the way I started, you WILL accomplish this unintentionally.


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