# ford 4000 3cyl starting problem



## .netDude (Nov 26, 2004)

Yesterday I turned the key and got nothing, thought it was battery so I charged it a few hrs. Went back out, turned key, got one hit, not a complete turn of the starter. Tried the key again and it started fine. Today, same thing - nothing at all when I turn the key. So I turned it a few more times, about the 4th or 5th time, it turned over fine. When I say nothing happens, I don't mean the starter cranks but it won't start, but that nothing happens at all - the starter doesn't engage. I always use a block heater in this weather and warm the glow plugs for 30 seconds or so, and the tractor always starts almost immediately. I replaced the piece where the key goes in last summer, since the old key was broke off in it. What does it sound like is the problem?


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## rancher1913 (Dec 5, 2008)

your neutral switch is getting old. wiggle the lowhigh shifter when you try and start it, my 5000 takes several movings of the shifter before it will take off and start. you can tear into the tranny and replace the switch but i've never got around to that as it does eventually crank. need to add--hold key to start when you move shifter so you can hear start cranking.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

I experience that problem with the starter solenoid on Ford tractors.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Agree it'll be the neutral safety switch 8 times out 10. Don't bypass it replace it!


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## .netDude (Nov 26, 2004)

What does it entail to replace it? I've opened the top of the transmission when it slipped between gears (or whatever it's called when it can't shift), but that's the extent of it.


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## andyd2023 (Jan 13, 2012)

The neutral safety switch is on top of the trans case not too hard to replace. I did my 3000 a while back. You can short it with a jumper to test if it is causing your issue, But DO NOT BYPASS the safety switch!! It's very dangerous.
Andrew


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

On My 5000 it turned out to be the switch its self. First off you had to turn the key several times to get it to crank (had tested the battery with an DVM and found it charged.) then it got so it would start but when you let go of the key it quit. You had to keep holding the key in the start postion for it to keep running. After the second time of that you could let go of the switch but the gen. light came on but it stayed running. Replaced the switch and alls well.

 Al


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## .netDude (Nov 26, 2004)

To test and short the switch, do I just strip the 2 wires going to the transmission cover and clip them together? Jiggling the shifter doesn't seem to work anymore.
What is the red wire coming out of the same wiring harness?


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## Twp.Tom (Dec 29, 2010)

I had a similar problem,checked-replaced-voltage regulator,coil,tune up.Still would not turn? I read on tractor forum that all electrical connections need to be "tight and bright". Disconnected ground strap-cleaned with sandpaper-steel wool.Reconnected-fired right up* Hope this helps.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> all electrical connections need to be "tight and bright".


That's the first thing I'd make sure of


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

I think the extra wire is for a cold start manifold glow plug option..... not sure though. Good question!


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