# cattledog and chickens



## waterbuffy (Oct 17, 2009)

I rescued a 7 month old cattledog that's already had 3 homes, I will be getting him tomorrow night. My question is he will be going to live with a friend that has a small dairy and lots of chickens. I know he will want to chase the chickens, what is the best way to teach him not to. I have 3 cattledogs so I know the breed but have only had them around cattle. My friend that is getting him has never had a cattledog. I'll know more about his personality tomorrow as he will be staying here a few days. Thanks.


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## mekasmom (Jan 19, 2010)

My personal feeling is that trying to teach a herding dog not to herd is like trying to teach a duck to fear water. They do what they are genetically created to do.
A secure fence for the chickens would be a good start.


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## sandsuncritters (Nov 18, 2011)

To what Mekasmom said.

The dog has already been through several homes so is confused and stressed in it's mind. Now it's being set up for another failure. Not only is the prospective new owner a cattle dog novice, but if her chickens are not "Fort Knox" contained, the dog will be so distracted by the chickens it will not be able to concentrate on it's real job at the hands of someone just learning the ropes herself.

Sad for what I am sure is an otherwise very good herding dog. 

Any chance you could evaluate the dog, finesse some training, and help the new owner learn how to work with the dog?

In His Love
Mich


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## pancho (Oct 23, 2006)

I think you can add another home to the list that didn't work out.


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## waterbuffy (Oct 17, 2009)

That's my plan to evaluate to the dog, work with it and help the new owner. I only have mine around cattle and a few sheep so that's why I'm asking for help about the chickens so I can pass any info on to the new owner. I know this is not a breed for everyone, 3 of my 4 had several homes before I got them. This dog was going to go to the pound if I didn't take it for all the usual reasons "it's dumb, too hyper, bites kids, etc"


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## pancho (Oct 23, 2006)

Most people I know that have them tell me they are not worth having if they do not kill chickens. They have them for work dogs though.


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## Otter (Jan 15, 2008)

Nope, sorry, I disagree.
Herding and chasing are NOT The Same. Hunting and chasing are NOT The Same.
Herding and hunting dogs (with the exception of hounds, and my hounds _still_ don't chase my cats or chickens) are the EASIEST dogs to train.

ANY new dog, any at all, regardless of breed, needs to be on a leash in a new home.
This is very simple, take one 6' cotton web leash and one leather buckle collar. Run the collar through the handle of the leash, then fasten it around the dog's neck so that you can just get a finger under it.
Now, the leash is not coming off unless you unbuckle the collar.
Then, take the clip on the leash, and attach it to your belt loop.
Spray the lovely, nice on the hands, absorbent cotton leash with some Grannick's Bitter Apple to prevent chewing. Not that there will be much chewing, as the dog will ALWAYS be within 6 feet of you.
There will also be next to no housebreaking incidents, destruction of furniture, jumping on people, making off with the kids toys, dashing out the open door into traffic or .... drumroll please ... chasing of chickens.

The dog bonds to you like superglue, and there's no way that you can let training slide with him attached and the leash right there. You can always reach him, and he's always looking at you. It takes about 3 or 4 days to get used to "wearing" the dog. Suck it up and tough out the minor inconvenience of you getting used to it, and you'll be rewarded with a bonded, well trained dog. Wear him for at least a month, and keep him on a long line (thin nylon cord that he drags ALWAYS, in the house and out) for at least 6.


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## sandsuncritters (Nov 18, 2011)

Real, vicious, deliberate bites?
Or excitable herding dog nips?
Big difference!
Either way, though, I certainly would not allow him near children!

As to the chickens, and I have this situation as well, so I'm speaking as BTDT. 

The prospective new owner must be willing to keep all poultry securely penned. And I'm talking double penned! That means inner perimeter 1" inch poultry wire at least 6' high, with physical digging barrier around all sides. Add a cover that attaches directly to the uprights. That's to keep poultry in. Outer perimeter should be dog proof. I used hog panels. I attached electric fence using extended insulators and a solar 12v charger. 6", 18", and 24" height. Later added 32" due to St. Bernard and Dane :yuck: That's to keep dogs out! Works on curious horses and kids, too!

Dog should be penned securely and far from poultry at all times unless actively being trained and under direct supervision by an experienced ADULT!

Time is your friend and enemy. Too little time in prep and training = dead poultry. If you are diligent, then eventually time and discipline = a dog who matures and remains focused on his real job.

BUT never relax diligence, because only one lapse will mean dead poultry and either a ruined dog who has to start again from scratch, or a dead dog due to .22 solution.

That's all from my knowledge and experience. Ymmv. Good luck, keep us posted. I truly wish the best for all of you, especially the dog.

In His Love
Mich


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## RedDirt Cowgirl (Sep 21, 2010)

I disagree about cattledogs and chickens - it all depends on conditioning. You must know enough about the "usual reasons" to check that direction, we never had a bit of trouble with ours, but she did come to us as a well brought up pup. As long as they don't misperceive their job, I think they're trust-worthy. Positive direction WITH the chickens, he'll take responsibility for them. These dogs are the most monkey-see-monkey-do creature, if they see chickens put to disorder by people they'll take the cue. They are such keen observers that working with the kids will be the key. Consistency, but of course, that's the trick with a dog that's been through the works like this one. They can also be the hardest dogs to re-home, that trust thing. I'd start with some close-by lead bringing the chickens in to feed - let him see the job is quiet time.

All like Otter sez.


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## sandsuncritters (Nov 18, 2011)

I "liked" your post, but I have to say I actually LOVE it 
It's what I do with every new dog! SO much easier to prevent bad behavior than correct it . Thank you!

I was speaking to her only about protecting her poultry investment, but both of our posts actually go hand in hand.

I hope she will take it to heart.

In His Love
Mich


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## Otter (Jan 15, 2008)

Thanks! I have a lot of rescues, and a special needs toddler - he wobbles. Because of the toddler, there are 2 rescues that did not get the "umbilical cord" treatment right off.

WOW, could you really tell. I have every possible excuse to NOT do it (the little guy, tiny house, I'm so busy, etc) But having now both done it and not done it - it is so much LESS work to make sure the toddler doesn't get tangled up then to train the dogs in ANY other way. They didn't get it right off, but have gotten it since. So trust me when I'm saying, I know it seems like a pain, after a week you'll be fine and it's _so much less work_ that I can't even describe it.


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## sandsuncritters (Nov 18, 2011)

I didn't realize you had a special needs kiddo. Bless your heart for all you do for him AND helping the doggies too. 

Yea, I've found myself wound tight in a few leads, too. Usually ends up in a giggling fit and slurpy licks as I fall into a chair to untangle the web :hysterical:

In His Love
Mich


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## jen74145 (Oct 31, 2006)

Mine became flock guardian. He was wonderful. A complete idiot, but sweet as could be.

He was mouthy, so I got him a toy rope and jhe just carried it everywhere. He'd toss it, catch it, worry it, chew it....


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