# woven wire fencing



## mrpink

I'm planning on installing some woven wire fencing this spring.my current estimate is three 330' rolls. currently I'm doing the final planning to make my materials list.
I seem to be having a bit of trouble deciding if I should pay the extra cost for fixed knot or just use hinge joint (either way it will be class 3). all my other fencing has been done using 10\47\6 hinge joint. I've been less then Impressed with most of it but I believe that to be more of my lack of experience in installing it.
The fence line I'm going to be putting in has no level areas. It is all up and down. My longest run is about 400' starts up hill goes down hill then back up hill. 254' steady incline. 200' up hill then down hill. 75' down a short small grade then level about 45'-50'. this will be perimeter fencing so I would like to do it one time and have it done right. I've got the corners down pat it is the stretching that I'm unsure of. do I stretch from bottom of the hill to the top then reset and stretch again going down hill (this is the only option for the 200' section, both ends in a low spot with a high hill between). any suggestions on the 400' section? the hill on one side is probably about 40' higher then the lowest spot with about 150' run. then level for about 75' then up hill about 50' then a slow gradual incline the rest of the way.


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## texican

All those numbers give me a headache... and math anxiety.

If your stringing net wire, going in a 'valley' or over a 'hill' and trying to stretch isn't going to happen, if the 'bump' is more than the height of the wire. I fence up and down hills, and have to stretch at every terrain change. You can only push it down so far, or lift it up so far. At every 'change', I set a cross tie, or sometimes two. If it's in a valley, I wire a small boulder onto the posts, to keep the wire from naturally wanting to pull up out of the ground.


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## steff bugielski

My experience is the woven wire easily folds if any thing or any one stands or leans on it. We have goats and they are quick to stand or lean on fencing. 
I love cattle panels or goat panels for that reason plus other advantages.
They are more expensive but you will never need to replace them.
You can easily install and move them if need be, by yourself.
You can adjust the height say over a rock or stump by cutting the bottom rung without effecting the rest of the fence.
Well worth the extra money.


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## mrpink

cattle panels would be nice but there not in the budget at the current time. I will plan on stretching at every grade change and nail off. the fixed knot wire is $45\roll more. still undecided on that.


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## motdaugrnds

I would never use cattle panels for unlevel terrain of any distance. There would be too much waste!

We used regular fencing wire (woven 48" at 330' per roll) and a come-along to stretch it. Like Texican, we had to attach a weight to some of the low parts. At times it was even easier to simply cut the wire at the bottom of one hill and end it at the top, making sure our posts were embedded in at least 2 ft of concrete. In some low areas, we used some loose wire and wired some old cedar tree trunks/limbs to the bottom. In one area, we literally had to place a fence on top of another fence just to close off that gulley, which meant we had extra long posts buried deeply that permitted the extra height on that part of our fencing. (The top of the upper part of that fencing was about level with the rest of the fencing on that side of the property.)

You probably are aware that your corners need to be constructed with additional supports in order to retain that area the way you want it. Be aware, also, that it is better to "not" attach fencing to growing trees if you can avoid doing so. We had to do this in several places, but we used wire run thru rubber hoses for conduits to do so. Even doing that, we can still see evidence the tree is attempting to swallow it.


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## texican

I also wire up old posts, slabs, and flitches from the sawmill onto the bottom of the fences, where the ground has changed (water flow, critters crawling under, etc.) Now that I'm cutting regularly on the sawmill, I'm getting huge stacks of excess wood.... can see lining a lot of lower fence with it in the future.


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## mrpink

most likely I will use the hinged joint woven wire as the cheap side of me doesn't like spending the extra $50 or so for the fixed knot and I haven't been able to find much info on how much better it is. luckily I have no gully's just slopes to traverse. no nailing to trees either. I've cleared the fence line area wide enough for me to bush hog around the fence in the areas with trees.

texican I may have to remember that. we have a very high water table in my bottom area. heavy spring rains can flood it at times with the water running through like a small spring.


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## fordy

mrpink said:


> I'm planning on installing some woven wire fencing this spring.my current estimate is three 330' rolls. currently I'm doing the final planning to make my materials list.
> I seem to be having a bit of trouble deciding if I should pay the extra cost for fixed knot or just use hinge joint (either way it will be class 3). all my other fencing has been done using 10\47\6 hinge joint. I've been less then Impressed with most of it but I believe that to be more of my lack of experience in installing it.
> The fence line I'm going to be putting in has no level areas. It is all up and down. My longest run is about 400' starts up hill goes down hill then back up hill. 254' steady incline. 200' up hill then down hill. 75' down a short small grade then level about 45'-50'. this will be perimeter fencing so I would like to do it one time and have it done right. I've got the corners down pat it is the stretching that I'm unsure of. do I stretch from bottom of the hill to the top then reset and stretch again going down hill (this is the only option for the 200' section, both ends in a low spot with a high hill between). any suggestions on the 400' section? the hill on one side is probably about 40' higher then the lowest spot with about 150' run. then level for about 75' then up hill about 50' then a slow gradual incline the rest of the way.



...................When I fenced the front of my 5 acres I had a low area probably 5 feet lower in the middle of a 150 foot stretch ! So , I stretch across the low area just like it wasn't even there , now , I built an 8 foot wide Hbrace in the low area . My neoighbor thought I was nuts cause here was a run of 4 foot tall field fence straight and tight , going across the top of the low area . So , he asks me....How in the Sam Hill are we going too bring that wire down too ground level , well , we started standing on the bottom wire where it was barely off the ground , then slowly we started moving towards the middle , and after about an hour we finally had it down and attached too the Hbrace ! I really didn't think that the field fence had enough stretch in it too make it all the way down too the low spot but with two "Fat boys" standing on it , it didn't have a chance . , fordy


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## shawnlee

As mentioned above...post placement is critical when it comes to unlevel terrain..


:thumb:


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## goat chaser

i agree, too much math, i've had goats for 8 years, still trying to keep tthem in... hard to do. you need a high fence, and , sounds like you bought the same wire i bought.... you might want get some cheap chicken wire and run around the bottom of you're run... or, keep watching.. they will get there horns stuck when they stick there head through ...buy the smallest tallest strongest wire you can afford..... 
good luck


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## goat chaser

i have a 2 foot tall goat that jumps over a 4 foot fence like nothing, .. gotta love him but,pain in the butt.. i'll let you know if i figure it out,... tell me if you do


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## Ross

OK so i had to look up hinge joint wire. We have some of that garbage. Far too light IMO the animals end up crushing it


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