# electric for camper



## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

I recently inherited a big camper and had a 220 line ran out to it from the house but neither end is connected. Would it hurt to install regular type a electrical receptacle at the crv shelter and use an adapter on the tt30 or is there a reason to install a tt30 outlet instead?

Last night was just my second spent at my new place and I really need the camper hooked up (the microwave doesnt work in my house, the propane isnt hooked up inside the house etc). the camper is like a second house to stay in a couple weeks while Im finishing the farm house. 

It will be a few days until I can get the permanent wire connected to the shelter so in the mean time I need to buy an extension cord at lowes or WM. I have the adapter for the tt30 camper cord. what amp rated extension cord do I need to use the tt30 adapter for the camper?

thanks for any help


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

"The TT&#8211;30 is a 30A, 120-volt recreational vehicle standard sometime it is called simply RV 30. Frequently it is confused for a NEMA 10&#8211;30 (see below) with disastrous results. Due to the appearance of the TT-30 plug, *many people assume that it is to be wired for 240-volt, but this is a 120-volt device*"


http://www.myrv.us/electric/pg/30amp_service.htm

That page also gives the correct wire guages to use.

One other thing - if you use the AC, expect the adapter to a regular 120 volt socket to melt. They don't do higher amperage well.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Gee the electric depth worker at lowes did t tell me that a out the regular socket melting g.
Thanks for the response Harry
I will take pictures of the plug and the wire tomorrow. 

I'm glad you're on these boards.

What ever it is I need I will try to do it myself if I can figure out how. I've spent so much on my house I can't justify paying 70 for an extension cord that I will never use.


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

Experience. When I finally sold our camper that had been sitting for four years in the same spot, I had to cut the end of the extension cord and adapter off because they has fused together and melted. Just tryin' to save you some pain. There are lots of folks who have done camping that can share the knowledge besides me.

Please show the wire, adapter you have, what comes out of the camper as an electric cable - especially the end, and give distance from your camper to the electric service, and a pic of the place you plan on hooking in. I see no reason to spend $70 on an extension cord.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Here is the plug from the camper and the wire run to it. I will send the distance and hookup point in a moment.


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

OK. Distance between the circuit breaker and where the trailer is in feet? You can just pace it off for a guesstimate, no need to be exact. How is that yellow ribbon cable currently terminated near the trailer?


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

It's about 125 feet. Neither end of the wire is connected. Just laying on the ground. 

Now I need to go back to lowes and get a tt30 outlet. How hard would it be to run a regular outlet above the tt30 so I could plug in other stuff?

Also how would I wire some lights to the shelter using that same line or is that not advisable?


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

This instruction video tells you what you need to know:

[YouTube]T_A3A15FvIs[/YouTube]

Something to check to see pricing:
http://www.amazon.com/Connecticut-E..._sbs_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0GPC50AD4HPYSS38W4NT

At 125' for a run that ribbon cable is likely not a large enough gauge. Sorry. 10 gauge solid core would be the _minimum_ to properly run. 8 would be better.

I bet I know what you are thinking. The adapter to a standard extension cord and socket looks like this new:









The standard household size plug and socket is not designed to carry that much current. This is what it will look like GUARANTEED after you use it for a couple of days if you turn on the AC:












If you need to do something cheap and temporary (*NOT to code!*) you could buy the proper 30 amp breaker for your breaker box and a length of about 150' of 10/3 solid cable. You would attach one end of it to where the extension cable terminal is in the camper - typically there is a small breaker box under a cabinet or closet that would have to be opened up to access it. The other end of the cable would attach in to the home breaker box with the breaker you bought. As long as you protect the cable, it is _relatively_ safe and usable.

The key thing is that you do not want any socket / plug or exposed wiring on the exterior.

The PROPER way to do things is to trench for the cable/conduit and install a weatherproof socket. If you want to run exterior lights and sockets, run a second circuit, or temporarily plug things in using the trailer wall sockets.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Is this the 10/3 I need? Would I still need conduit?


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

I don't see your pic. It is a temp hookup, so my advise is to use common sense for your situation. If there are animals, maybe suspend it above reach, etc. Other than the basics anything I say more now may get people to thinking such a setup is acceptable long-term. Therefore I have to stop at what I have said.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

heres the wire I asked about. 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_70131-295-6...ire&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=10+3+wire&facetInfo=

I think we have a communication problem. Im not sure what you mean by a temporary hook up. I thought running a cable out to my rv shed and putting a weatherproof outlet on a shed post that I could plug into was permanent fixture. 

I understand the line I ran out needs replaced. Is the above 10/3 line what I need? if so, will it need conduit as well if I run it underground? I'm trying to follow your directions and appreciate your help, please dont withhold information from me. 

I will get the above cord and a proper outlet, and more conduit if I need ( I assume 10/3 wont fit in one inch conduit pipe).

250 is about ahundred feet more than I need, but I also need power run out to my coop, garage, workshed. I also have a hot tub I need hooked up. I assume I need 10/3 for it instead of the cable I originally posted here that I have run out to the RV shed now?

thanks


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

Just using a camper for a couple of weeks (as you mentioned) means there is no need to spend $$$ on a permanent hook-up. Doing the job proper and to code is a whole different project. I think that you also may be experiencing project creep and providing fuzzy requirements because of realizing midway - "oh, I need to have THIS as well." We've all done it. 

This is more the type of wire you would need for the basic proper camper hook-up.
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/electrical/wire-cable/wire/uf-b-underground-feeder-cable-10-3-awg

Rather than Lowes, if you go to a proper electrical supply house (there is usually one within 50 to 100 miles - look in the yellow pages) and tell the counter clerk exactly what you are doing, he will be able to kit you out with everything in one stop, supply just the amount of wire you need, and probably tell you what common hazards to avoid.

The original project of a simple plug for a camper is a fairly straight forward one-off: get the proper GFI breaker, box, wire, plug, conduit, connectors, no-ox, a proper stake, hook it together and be done with it. Once you start talking hot tub and shed power, those are separate circuits and you may or may not even have the proper sized mains breaker box to accommodate the additional breakers.

I'm not a strong follower of all building codes, but with outdoor electric, the codes are the easiest way to safety and not killing yourself or loved ones. If you don't know the code, or how to read and interpret the code book, the cost of an LICENSED electrician is some of the cheapest insurance you will ever buy. List out all of your EVENTUAL requirements for power, diagram the layout, and shove it in front of an electrician or supply house clerk. You are far better off with a comprehensive plan rather than going piecemeal. For instance, when I put power at our place, I knew I wanted to have ample capacity for a full workshop or second home. That meant that just the mains box and meter housing was $800 for the two 200 amp services, compared to the $150 common trailer pole. While I paid $ up front, I will not have to re-do at great expense if I expand. With wire, it has to be properly sized for the service - not undersized and generally not oversized. 

The code is available for free online here:
http://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/document-information-pages?mode=code&code=70


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Thank you much


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