# Powderhorn question



## Farmer Willy (Aug 7, 2005)

I'd like to make a couple powderhorns for my powder needs. Now, as I understand, a cow horn was traditionally used because it was water proof. Also, the spout was typically sealed with a carved wooden plug. 

I'd like to kick mine up a few notches. I'd like to use something to coat the inside of the horn to ensure it stayed waterproof, and to give it a slicker surface that powder wouldn't lodge or stick to. Additionally, I'd like to make sure the wooden spout plug sealed tight when it was inserted. 

So, after all that long winded chin music the question is what might be a good liquid something I could pour into the horn, swirl around to seal against the plug, that would dry to a powder friendly finish? I think most epoxies would be too thick. I'm not sure varnishes or shellacs would hold up. Any ideas?


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## StL.Ed (Mar 6, 2011)

Some epoxies are thinner than others. If you start with a slow epoxy, you can warm it up a bit with a heat gun; it will thin down, and you'll still have plenty of pot life left to work with it.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Try a gas tank sealer. There wet and coat the tank and dry smooth.

 Al


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

Just an idea, but years ago there used to be a liquid the we used to seal rusted motorcycle tanks after we fixed the holes and rusted out spots. I don't recall the name of the stuff, I only recall that we would pour it in and slosh it around until everything inside was coated and then pour out the excess. Then we would let it air dry over a day or two..This kept the gas and water from ever touching the inside of the tank and kept them from rusting again and protecting the "bodywork" we did. I don't even know if they still make the stuff, since this was almost 20 years ago. But I would use it if I was trying to do what you are talking about. I have made my own power horns before from start to finish (got some from the slaughter house/butcher, hint don't cook them "off" inside the house)


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## Shrek (May 1, 2002)

What about spray can bed-liner? it waterproof coats a pick up bed, why not the inside of a powder horn? 

After the first filling some powder would lube coat it for smooth flow.

Or you could just craft the horn traditionally and rely on the more precise modern quality black powder manufacturing processes to ensure smoother flow through the horn considering black powder today is more consistent and smokeless than what was manufactured 100 to 300 years ago when traditional horns were the norm.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

the traditional way to seal in the end plug is to fit the plug well then dip in melted bees wax and slide in and tack in place , that the bees wax never gets hard and brittle and cracks like other glues during expansion and contraction.
long time BP shooter that have horns made this way some 50 years old still have working horns , others who used glues have had to re- glue them in that time.

you don't want an air tight horn that doesn't breath 

making KNO3 black powder the type used in muzzle loading firearms is a wet process , your black powder started wet , if it gets wet it can dry 

if you make a air tight horn that can't breath when you load up out in the cold then come in the house it will condensate , if your horn can't breath that will foul your powder. if your horn can breath and your home is heated with a wood stove or fire place it will be dry shortly.


you may want to avoid poly or plastic type coatings inside a horn for one more reason , some of them build up static , and static around fine black powder dust is not a good thing


horn can be polished to a very smooth finish , not sure it is needed though , like air has the least wind resistance against air , if say 1% of your first powder in the horn lodged in the texture of the inside of the horn , other powder would flow over it the same as powder on powder moving thru the spout.

my horn flows just fine , I have a brass valve in then end of mine and if a person is modernizing a traditional horn that would be my suggestion , I just push the valve and pour then turn it up right and release the valve , i can even get a adapter to have one of my powder measures insert into and then the valve is opened and turned to pour the horn is given little shake then valve release and the measure is full right to the top , pour in the barrel and finish loading


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

GREENCOUNTYPETE said:


> the traditional way to seal in the end plug is to fit the plug well then dip in melted bees wax and slide in and tack in place , that the bees wax never gets hard and brittle and cracks like other glues during expansion and contraction.
> long time BP shooter that have horns made this way some 50 years old still have working horns , others who used glues have had to re- glue them in that time.
> 
> you don't want an air tight horn that doesn't breath
> ...



Good points! I didn't consider the static issue...


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## Farmer Willy (Aug 7, 2005)

Sound advice Pete. I'll not worry about coating the inside. I do like the brass valve idea as well. Got a source for such a valve?

(...hint don't cook them "off" inside the house)---Where was you with that advice last year??


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## Badger (Jun 11, 2010)

Dixie Gun works is where I got the parts for my horns - If you want to fancy it up a little try scrimshaw - pretty easy on horn and alot of fun. Horn carving is not too hard either.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

I went with this kit
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/76/1/HORN-D-KIT

it works well , I can't say that it is the highest quality , as it came plugged and i don't know if they glued it or epoxied it , i dought they did it the traditional way with bees wax , but the price was right and i did that before i learned about the bees wax method.

I just drilled out the hole to the correct size , then epoxied the bushing in with gorilla epoxy , it works good

for long term storage it is hard to beat the can it came in, i have some 30-35 year old goex always stored in the original can one can was left when my uncled died , the other i got with a rifle that was assemble and shot in the 70s and then sat , 

unless your making your own powder then it didn't come in a can

I have to admit i am tempted to try making my own , the ingredients are cheap and can ship easily , unlike real black , well except for the willow part i don't have any of that around , but another soft wood may do.


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## Rockwell Torrey (Aug 14, 2013)

Badger said:


> Dixie Gun works is where I got the parts for my horns - If you want to fancy it up a little try scrimshaw - pretty easy on horn and alot of fun. Horn carving is not too hard either.[/QUOTE
> 
> 
> This sounds like a fun project.


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

Farmer Willy said:


> Sound advice Pete. I'll not worry about coating the inside. I do like the brass valve idea as well. Got a source for such a valve?
> 
> (...hint don't cook them "off" inside the house)---Where was you with that advice last year??


Outside trying to get the dog to share a corner of his house! :nana:


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## Farmer Willy (Aug 7, 2005)

beowoulf90 said:


> Outside trying to get the dog to share a corner of his house! :nana:


Yes sir. I've added that to the list that says don't prepare horseradish inside.


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