# Sewing Clothes



## Peacock (Apr 12, 2006)

I make quilts and pajamas. That's pretty much the extent of my sewing skills. In the past I've made simple clothes - a super-easy dress, a skirt, couple no-sleeve blouses. Never really tried that hard, because the truth is it's just not financially practical to make clothes when they're pretty cheap off-the-rack.

Then again . . .

Clothes off-the-rack are junk. Especially the cheap ones. I love shopping at Kohl's because they have cute stuff at great prices, but it doesn't last! I get maybe two years out of it at the most. Which is fine for trendy stuff, but not so much when you find a style you really like. 

Also, I tend not to have the same taste in clothing as most. Right now I'm into the 50s look. I want to wear more dresses and skirts, but all I can find are slacks, summer-weight dresses, or career wear. If you want a cold-weather dress you're pretty much out of luck. Even the *new* stuff out on the shelves is sleeveless rayon! This is Ohio, folks!

So I'm realizing that if I want to buy the clothes I really want, they're not going to be $15 at Kohl's, they're going to be $200 at Macy's. If that. 

It's time to revisit those sewing skills. 

What's your favorite clothing pattern brand? My mom always swore by Simplicity, and I've had good luck with it too. She said that Butterick was inconsistent, McCalls was hard to follow, and Vogue was geared for more high-fashion instead of everyday. 

I like the patterns that include several different styles, so you get your money's worth, especially when they're on sale for 99 cents.

And, what do you do when you want to save pattern pieces? I had a pajama pattern and a zippered hoodie pattern I used so much, in different sizes, I just cut them very carefully by tracing pencil on the fabric and not cutting the paper. That's hard with more complicated styles. 

I guess you could trace each size on paper yourself - what to use? Freezer paper taped together? I remember years ago my mom got hold of blank newsprint rolls - she worked for a newspaper. I considered doing it with interfacing but I didn't have enough. Maybe muslin, but I didn't know if it was sturdy enough to hold the shape. 

Anyway, I'd love all the tips and info you could give me. I am pretty good at following directions but I seem to have trouble with sizing - everything always turns out way too big or way too small, despite careful measuring.


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## steff bugielski (Nov 10, 2003)

Well my Mom owned a very nice fabric store for years. My Dad had a factory sewing kids cloths for ever. I can tell you that if you make something yourself out of good quality fabric it will last forever.

We at the store never even sold Simplicity because they were terrible. I doubt that has changed, my DD recently had me on the phone trying to decipher one not long ago.

I like Butterick or McCalls. Vogue is also good but they are pricey.

Sewing is like cooking, if you can follow the directions and know the terminology You will be fine.

Over the years I have sewn just about every garment out there. The process is the same the steps are different.

As for the pattern pieces I cut them out of white craft paper the first time. Carefully transfer ALL markings and info onto the craft paper than fold the original back up at back into the envelope.

Many patterns have actual measurements right on the piece. For example pants, will have a marking at the hip, and tell you that at that exact spot the garment will be "X'' inches . So you put the pattern piece up to you and at that spot onthe piece you can see if it is good or needs adjusting.

Last but not least never sew with cheapo fabric, you will end up with a cheapo garment.


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I'm favoring Kwik Sew more and more as they patterns are on heavy paper for tracing and using over and over and over and over and over. Combining different pattern sizes is not difficult and the designs are basic enough you can make one nine gillion different ways. I have a skating dress pattern I've used for 20+ years in various sizes.

The adult wear is such that it would be easy to make wool skirts, or jackets, etc.

http://www.kwiksew.com/Location_set.cfm?Country=United States

And they do have some books with basic patterns, how to sew them and how to use same pieces differently together to make different looks.

Check them out.


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## RedDirt Cowgirl (Sep 21, 2010)

I like Burda patterns - they range from simple to complex, and have a lot of 50's styles. There are even some free ones you can download - check it out http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns?free=1&most_recent=1

The familiar pattern companies like Simplicity, etc., have "dumbed down" details for the home sewer, but you get a clunky design that's hard to manage. Think facings instead of bias binding - how I struggled with those inner flaps that always showed, until I learned better. The professionals do it easier and faster.

For sizing, you really need to measure yourself and check it against the pattern - the "ease" varies by designs, but the sizing should stay the same.


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## Peacock (Apr 12, 2006)

RedDirt Cowgirl said:


> The familiar pattern companies like Simplicity, etc., have "dumbed down" details for the home sewer, but you get a clunky design that's hard to manage. Think facings instead of bias binding - how I struggled with those inner flaps that always showed, until I learned better. The professionals do it easier and faster.
> 
> For sizing, you really need to measure yourself and check it against the pattern - the "ease" varies by designs, but the sizing should stay the same.


You know, that really makes sense now that you mention it. I guess I always buy Simplicity because my mom liked them and I just took her word that the others were too hard. But that may very well be why my projects turn out so poorly, and so obviously homemade. I always thought I was just stupid.

What do you think of the website PatternReview.com? Think their advice is helpful? It's nice to be able to buy patterns online (sewingpatterns.com) and fabric online - probably better for me, because I walk into a fabric store and it's like drifting into Valhalla.  I want everything in sight.


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I've found useful information at pattern review. Good sewing related site and information. (I'm there occasionally, also).

and remember that sewing pattern sizes are usually not the size you wear when buying store clothing. The stores "adjusted" their sizes to appear smaller a few years ago, so just go by the measurements on the back, until you're confident of which size of pattern really fits you.


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## Tommyice (Dec 5, 2010)

I use all of the big 4 (McCalls, Simplicity, Vogue & Butterick), Kwik Sew and some of the independent designers. For easing back into sewing I would stick with one of the Big 4. I trace all of my patterns--I keep hoping that I'll lose weight and need the smaller sizes. It is also very easy to mix sizes doing it that way. I would also invest in a good fitting book and also Vogue Sewing. It's a compendium of all kinds of techniques and is a great all around reference book. The fitting book will help with adjustments you will need to make. The Big 4 patterns are sized for a B cup, Burda for a C or D. 

Measuring yourself before buying the pattern can't stressed enough. Angie's source for Pattern Review is excellent. Lots of great help over there. I was just there with a problem I had with an independent pattern--Hot Patterns Miss Moneypenny *****cat Blouse--and boy were they helpful to me.

Good Luck! It's always great to meet up with other garment sewers.


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## my3boys (Jan 18, 2011)

I personally don't care for Simplicity, for a variety of reasons. I do like McCalls or Butterick, and Vogue is my favorite. Yes Vogue is expensive, but I wait until they go on sale, and I only use their basic patterns that have a variety of styles, as in choices of neck lines, skirt lengths, sleeve variations, etc. If I spend $4 on a Vogue pattern on sale and make 2 or more garments from it, it's worth it.

ETA: I also like my old Stretch and Sew and the Quik Sew patterns, maybe even better than Vogue because they are easy to customize.


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## countrysunshine (Jul 3, 2008)

Different people's experiences are funny things. I, too, grew up with a mother that only used Simplicity. I can sew from any of them but mostly just use the pieces and make my own instructions. I gave up on facings years ago - much to Mom's dismay. The thought they were easier and I did not.

I never transfer patterns. I do reinforce them. I do cut them or fold them as needed.

I, personally, find that the sizes on the back are never correct to how they sew up either. I had never heard the term until about 10 years ago but a muslin is definitely a plus for something you want to make out of good fabric. It allows you to work out the sizing issues first. I am a royal PIA to size. Short torso, long legs, large bust, narrow shoulders. Always requires adjustments but my patterns are for me.


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## GraceMarie (Dec 18, 2004)

I have three little girls, so I trace all my patterns onto kraft tissue paper in the size I need at the moment. I'm pretty sure I bought it here (it was a long time ago): Tissue paper


I'm not crazy about Simplicity patterns because I think they often look "homemade".


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## cc (Jun 4, 2006)

The Reader's Digest Sewing Book is a very good book to have as a general resource. It isn't a pattern book but it does cover all sorts of problems that come up when making clothes no matter what pattern brand you are using. I have been sewing for many, many years (more than I want to admit to!) and still look up things once in awhile in it.


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## Classof66 (Jul 9, 2011)

It's a shame what has happened to the home sewing industry. The fabric stores are full of craft and decorative stuff now. Since the dime stores like Ben Franklin have folded, it is hard to find zippers, thread and other sewing supplies in many of the smaller communities. I live 15 miles from a city of over 150,000 and one has to drive halfway thru it to buy a zipper or buttons. In the sixties almost every girl took home ec and could sew, now hardly anyone does. I wonder just how many still make curtains.


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## Classof66 (Jul 9, 2011)

There is a book called America What Went Wrong. It is probably 25 or more years old now. It discusses how so many companies were bought out and taken apart, etc. And ruined. Simplicity Pattern is one of them. It's an interesting read.


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## steff bugielski (Nov 10, 2003)

Classof66 said:


> It's a shame what has happened to the home sewing industry. The fabric stores are full of craft and decorative stuff now. Since the dime stores like Ben Franklin have folded, it is hard to find zippers, thread and other sewing supplies in many of the smaller communities. I live 15 miles from a city of over 150,000 and one has to drive halfway thru it to buy a zipper or buttons. In the sixties almost every girl took home ec and could sew, now hardly anyone does. I wonder just how many still make curtains.


We saw this happening at my mom's store.
Women did not want to sew, cook, clean or raise their children. They saw these things as being inferior some how. They would even say with much pride" Oh I do not sew" Like it was for peasants or something.

I feel sorry for them.


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## Tommyice (Dec 5, 2010)

A few years ago when I got back into garment sewing I needed interfacing. My choice was to drive 30 miles to a Joanns or order online. I was in a small town a couple of miles from my home that still has a "downtown" shopping district. They still have a Five & Dime. She kept a small section that had two weights of interfacing, thread, zippers and few other things. She kept it mostly for herself. I was the first person to buy something from there other than thread to sew on a button. 

Needless to say, I now buy lots of needed stuff when Joanns or my favorite online source is having a sale.


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## countrysunshine (Jul 3, 2008)

steff bugielski said:


> We saw this happening at my mom's store.
> Women did not want to sew, cook, clean or raise their children. They saw these things as being inferior some how. They would even say with much pride" Oh I do not sew" Like it was for peasants or something.
> 
> I feel sorry for them.


It is only in recent years that I have admitted that I sew. I have been made fun of a lot in my life for my sewing, cooking, canning and other skills. It has only been in the past 10 to 15 years that those skills became admirable again. 

Gardening was another one. Flower gardens were to be admired but vegetable gardens were considered low class.


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

I grew up with our mother sewing and making a lot of our clothes too, but do not remember what patterns she used. Needles to say she was good at creating our clothes and costumes. 
Over the years I have used several different brands of patterns and have to admit I have gotten lazy. I would rather make something for a craft show i.e. pet tents for kitties. 
Years ago I did find a Vogue pattern for jeans that I fell in love with. It is the Calvin Klein pattern and the fit was awesome. I went to the extent of buying extra copies of that pattern just to have it later.
Now I have gotten bit by the desire to make quilts and am having fun with learning the techniques. And I have sewn since I was around 8 years old.. Made my own clothes and some for my kids way back when, 
I also bought and took the classes some years back with the custom fitting for patterns. One of the things that was said is that Simplicity and some of the other major brands at that time gave as much as 4 inches of ease in their patterns. I doubt that much has changed in that area. That is why I think the clothes come out looking sloppy. 
I think it depends on what one is looking for and what style they want as to what brand of pattern one buys. Each brand has it's pluses and minuses.


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## westbrook (May 10, 2002)

pattern companies size by the high bust measurement not the full bust measurement, unless you are a "C" cup or larger then you would purchase by the full bust measurement.

I buy by the high bust and then do a full bust alteration on the pattern because I prefer to not have to do a shoulder alteration.. call me lazy.

Copy your pattern in the sizes you need, fold the pattern back, pattern folding the easy way http://lasewist.blogspot.com/2008/10/pattern-folding-101.html

I use medical exam paper (the paper on the doctors exam table), I am able to get it at a medical supply store but while in Texas, these stores did not sell it. I ordered a case from Amazon and left it for my friend.
for a case of 12 http://www.amazon.com/Paper-Exam-Ta...A3NW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1323110498&sr=8-6
plus shipping, expect to pay about $55

It is cheaper for 18" x 125' but what's the point! a few dollars more for a lot more paper. I use about a case a year.

Exam paper is thin but strong, easy to see through. Butcher paper is thick and cumbersome when you do a paper fit and hard to see through to make a copy of the original pattern.


>>"What's your favorite clothing pattern brand? My mom always swore by Simplicity, and I've had good luck with it too. She said that Butterick was inconsistent, McCalls was hard to follow, and Vogue was geared for more high-fashion instead of everyday. "<<

general rule of thumb

Vogue designs patterns for Tall, thin women with no butts.

McCallâs and Butterick designs patterns for a more normal shaped woman

Simplicity designs with cuts a little larger then Vogue and Burda

Burda designs with a little more fullness in the bust and butt area then Vogue.


I always recommend that if you are sewing for yourself that you get a dress form. Most dress forms aren't sized for a real figure but for the pattern sizes. Either make a duct tape double or find an old dress form smaller then you are and pad it up.

Duct tape double, dummy, dress form
http://www.leanna.com/DuctTapeDouble/ and do read every page for hints, tips, tricks. There is free instructions http://www.leanna.com/DuctTapeDouble/textA.html

Padding up
http://edsmum.wordpress.com/2011/05/12/customizing-a-tailors-dummy-padding-out/

Now if you like the padding up.. find someone you can wrap in duct tape and make a dress form smaller then yourself and use that as your base.

So make a copy of your pattern and put the original away. But first make a photo copy of the front and back of the envelope which you will tape to a 6x9 envelope. This envelope will hold your copied pattern.

Hopefully you will do the major alterations on the paper and perhaps someone would start a thread on how to fit a pattern... is there already a sticky for it?

Paper fit your pattern before even thinking about cutting fabric. I am a nut about fitting! I hope to finish the information on how to fit a pattern in the next few months with the Semester break. There is a measurement form you may want to print out and use. 
https://greenaprons.wordpress.com/2010/11/19/pattern-fitting/

These forms go beyond measuring bust, waist and hips. I suggest you start with the second form, easier to fill out. the first form is for more finite measurements.

the idea of the form is to fill in the blanks and then adjust your paper pattern to fit before cutting the fabric. I think one more column needs to be added and that is 'actual pattern measurements'. 

To get actual pattern measurements you will need to draw in the seam allowances.. inside the line since the seam allowance is included. Use a tape measure that is 5/8" wide. Once the seam allowance is drawn in, measure between the stitch lines. Add the front and back bust, waist, hip and then multiply by 2. This is where the adding and subtracting come in. This will tell you how much you need to add or take away from the pattern. 

another method
If you have a dress form, pin the center back and center back. If you need to open up the side seam to get the center back and front on point, then add some paper to the side seams to get it to meet with a 5/8 inch seam allowance.

HTH, I know it was long


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## Garnet (Sep 19, 2003)

I have favorite patterns that I use over and over. A lot are Butterick, but several are McCalls and Simplicity. At one time, a lot of my friends used Stretch and Sew. The demo classes were very reasonable, and we often shared a pattern. They were multi-size and had to be traced. I usually bought non fusible, unwoven interfacing for pattern tracing at the fabric stores when it was on sale. Several gals would be making the same garment and get inspiration and encouragement and pick up hints from each other.

For some time, the pattern styles have been very trendy. It can be hard to find classic, simple styles now. And the instructions are not detailed and clear as in the past. Also, finished garment measurements are no longer printed on the front pattern piece. I depended on those measurements to select the right size or to combine sizes. 

Fabric stores are now full of fleece and quilt fabric and silky prints. I look at the prints and wonder who would wear them. You really have to look carefully to find a good garment fabric. 

I have done just about every type of sewing. Curtains and drapes, T tops, skirts, blouses, tailored suits, knit and rain jackets. casual suits, pants, at least a dozen trousers for my husband, equal number of shirt jackets, pjs, bed quilts, wall quilts, placemats. bags, organizers ...

I have "traced" patterns from a few ready made garments with a fit and style that I liked. Not real easy, but doable.

I wish there was a way for beginners who want to learn to sew to have demo classes moving from simple to more advanced projects, with sewing tips and techniques at each step.


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## Waiting Falcon (Nov 25, 2010)

I have discarded 90% of my McCall patterns. I will not buy a McCall unless I can find no other choice. The bodice has never fit right for me. I am tall, slim,
broad shouldered, small busted, medium long to the waist.
I have used other brands more successfully. But I still do a lot of measuring to lengthen sleeves ,shoulder width, etc. add here and take away there to get a decent fit.
But I do think it is very important to have your own sloper, as that is the only way you will have a perfect fit.

Thanks for all the websites!


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## Peacock (Apr 12, 2006)

Thanks for all the info about fitting. I inherited a dress form from my mom, but my daughter is now using it in her room as a decorative accessory.  Great info about the patterns and body types. I'm short, a little plump, broad shouldered with a big chest. I suppose that means I should try Burda patterns? And about the Simplicity being larger - perhaps that's why everything I make turns out so big. I made PJ pants (size M) for my daughter, and they fit me. We're the same height but I'm about 45 pounds heavier 

I also have a lot of sewing books I inherited from my mom. Some are new-ish, some from the 60s. I'm ashamed to admit I haven't read any of them. Guess this would be a good time to do so!

Kind of sad that so many people have trouble finding good sewing fabric and notions. I'm lucky to have a Joann's, Hobby Lobby, and a wonderful quilting shop nearby - plus a Walmart that sells fabric. Our local Hancock's closed but there's another not so far away. Joann's is PACKED whenever they have sales. And surprisingly, they carry not only quilting fabric and fleece but also a good selection of apparel and home dec fabric too. 

Trouble is it's so expensive. I wanted to make myself a bathrobe. Got a pattern on sale for 99 cents, so far so good. But the fabric I wanted (ribbed cotton chenille) was 14.95 a yard, and I needed 3. Even cheaper minky-type stuff was 12.95. So I'd be paying at least $40 for a bathrobe. I found one I liked at Walmart for $18. I can't see any reason to make it myself unless I get the fabric at a deep discount. But I am going to keep my eye out for a sale on the chenille, because I want one that looks kind of old-fashioned instead of the cheap fuzzy ones - and those *are* $40, easily.

BUT -- I did find the perfect dress pattern, for exactly what I wanted - and I guarantee I'm not going to find THIS on the rack anywhere. 

Plus it's still cheaper to make your own quilts. 

Thanks everyone!


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## Garnet (Sep 19, 2003)

Be sure to sign up for the flyers from Joann and Hancock's. They have coupons. You do have to watch what is already on sale; the coupons only apply to regular priced items. 

Sometimes I find what I want already on sale without a coupon. Sometimes I can use a coupon. 

Last week I went to Joann for Warm and White cotton batt and Insulbrite for potholders. One product was already 50% on sale. I had a 50% coupon for the other. Some city newspapers will carry a Joann ad with coupons in their Sunday edition.

I usually look through the Joann suitings. There is a variety of weights in that collection. I found one that I liked for dresses, skirts, and unlined jacket. The fabric comes out of the washer and dryer needing only a slight touchup with the iron. I chose one color for a dress and skirt; another for the skirt and jacket. Another time, I found a fabric in that collection for a white blouse.


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## Garnet (Sep 19, 2003)

I have found some good buys in the Joann red tag fabrics. Keep an eye on them and be ready when they go on sale 50%. Occasionally, I find a garment fabric in that section that is goo quality.

I have found several fabrics in the red tag home dec section. I found a suede upholstery to cover a padded headboard. I always look for fabrics for table cloth and placemats. I found a 100% cotton coarse weave. These are all 54" and wide enough for my table. 

You do have to be careful to check the fiber content. Some have olefin. I have made placemats from a plaid. They are machine washable, but must be flat or line dried. They cannot be put in the dryer or ironed. 

For any coarse woven fabric, I usually machine a line of straight stitch ( or very narrow zig zag) half an inch or so from the edge and ease out threads to fringe. Sometimes I hem by tuning under and top stitching. 

The plaid placemats were serged and turned under to hem along the top and bottom edges. The ends were fringed. 

If you enjoy attractive table linens as I do, the red tag home dec fabrics are a good source for inexpensive linens. I was able to fussycut 6 plaid placemats from a yard. Regular price $6. Sale price $3. That's $1 ea regular or 50c ea on sale. Plus a little thread. Pretty reasonable gift for yourself or someone else.


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## Peacock (Apr 12, 2006)

cc said:


> The Reader's Digest Sewing Book is a very good book to have as a general resource. It isn't a pattern book but it does cover all sorts of problems that come up when making clothes no matter what pattern brand you are using. I have been sewing for many, many years (more than I want to admit to!) and still look up things once in awhile in it.


Hey! Guess what I just happened to find for $1.99 at a thrift store a couple days ago? The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing!!!

Also: RD Complete Guide to Needlework, and RD Crafts & Hobbies. $1.99 each! Yippee!

I love thrift stores.


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