# Starting reloading



## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

DW bought me a reloading kit for Christmas. Been doing some reading from the included books. Just wondering what advise you'd give someone just starting out on reloading?


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## BuckBall (Dec 26, 2005)

There is a lot of advice one can give so I'll just give a little and let others chime in. Be patient, don't take short cuts and follow the data to the letter.


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## brownegg (Jan 5, 2006)

Are you going to be reloading shotgun shells or rifle bullets?

brownegg


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## Ed Norman (Jun 8, 2002)

If you are loading rifle or pistol rounds, pick a powder charge that can only fit one into the case. Some target loads in a 38 case could probably go in 4 or 5 times, which isn't good. Until you understand and get your technique down, having a double charged case an impossibility is just one less thing to worry about. 

I like to charge all my cases in the loading block, then I look into each one with a flashlight to verify they are all the same height. Once in a while stick powder might bridge in the measure, dumping more in the next case, or a bit of lube in the neck could bridge the powder there, spilling powder into the loading block. A quick check of every case spots the trouble. 

Only have the powder you are loading on the bench. The other powders are over on the shelf. I saw a guy blow up a good rifle with a load of pistol powder once.


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## Irish farmer (Dec 21, 2007)

I'm thinking about beginning to reload shotgun shells. Buckshot. How difficult will that be?


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## brownegg (Jan 5, 2006)

First thing , one must have a reloader....it's the piece of equipment that allows one to assemble all the components...casing, primer, wad, powder, shot.

The reloader will resize the casing for the new primer, allowing one to reuse casings until they are spent. The charge bar determines the powder and shot ratio...light load, magnum...etc.

It's not hard to learn if you are interested.

I've reloaded thousand's of rounds. It is a fun project.

brownegg


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

The FIRST thing you need to do is buy several GOOD reloading manuals, and read them CAREFULLY before attempting to figure out powders, bullets, etc.

Reloading is not HARD, but it IS DANGEROUS whne not done correctly


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## SnakeRiver (Feb 7, 2009)

Cut out any distractions. This is especially true for when you are measuring powder. If there is any doubt, measure it twice.


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## nathan104 (Nov 16, 2007)

Stock up on the powders and primers you will need before the new govt taxes them heavily. Dont be distracted while reloading. Pay attention to what you are doing. Like the books say, start at the minimum and work your way up towards the maximums in developing your loads. Read up on what bullets can be fired from what. I learned you are not supposed to fire cast lead bullets through a glock barrel after I did it. I learned you are not supposed to fire cast lead bullets through a micro grooved barrel AFTER buying the casting molds and accesories for casting 44 mag bullets for my micro grooved barrel marlin 1894. Different guns can handle different pressures and loads. When reading up on reloading the 44 mags, I learned that a 300 grain bullet I load for my rifle can also be fired from a 44 mag Ruger super edhawk but not from a S&W 44 mag revolver because the s&w cannot handle the pressures of that load. So, research your loads and also the gun you are reloading for.


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

Bearfootfarm said:


> The FIRST thing you need to do is buy several GOOD reloading manuals, and read them CAREFULLY before attempting to figure out powders, bullets, etc.
> 
> Reloading is not HARD, but it IS DANGEROUS whne not done correctly


Very good advice.
I've had several people ask me to show them, that they weren't the "book learnin" type.
So I would have them watch and find the spot in the book for each step, so 
they would know "why" they were doing each step.

Most manuals are produced by powder companies, so they only show their brand in the tables, that's why you need several.

I still used a single stage press, and complete each step, before changing the dies and moving on.
Next one will be a turret, but I still like to take my time, double check each case after each step.

Dispose of any case that has cracks or other imperfections (this is hard to do, I smash them with the vice to stop any temptation, "maybe I'll just save this one")
I also use home made loading blocks, scrap pieces of 1X6 pine, drilling the grid holes out with a Fosner bit (spelling?), anyway, gives you flat bottom holes.
As was brought up, check each case with a light, to see if any are not the same height.

It's a fun hobby, and you have just learned something that is another step toward self sufficiency. With supplies, you will be still shooting long after others run out of ammo...............


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## Chuck R. (Apr 24, 2008)

Bearfootfarm said:


> The FIRST thing you need to do is buy several GOOD reloading manuals, and read them CAREFULLY before attempting to figure out powders, bullets, etc.
> 
> Reloading is not HARD, but it IS DANGEROUS whne not done correctly


Very sound advice.

I learned to reload when I was 15 by getting an ABCs of reloading and a Speer manual. I read them cover to cover. Basic loading isn't hard, but it is a hobby requiring attention to detail.

Chuck


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

Reloading is a lot like canning, it's not hard but if you don't follow the directions carefully, you could kill yourself and those around you.

The recipes (and yes, that is what they all them) have been tried and tested to work. It's frustrating when folks don't want to read the books because then they don't learn the "Why" behind the "How". You need to know why you do things certain ways, and what can happen when you don't.

My husband started out with shotgun shells, now he reloads for all our center fire rifles too. He has several books and reads a lot, and does the testing and all that other stuff. He has a lot of fun developing loads and trying new powders. When following the books, there is a lot of room for customization and tweeking.

It amazes me how a different powder, of even a slightly different amount of powder can affect the accuracy of a particular gun. DH has shown me targets where he's gone from a 8" spread to a 1" spread, and the only change was grains of powder. 

His favorite book (for now) is Lyman, 47th edition. 

Cathy


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## tn_junk (Nov 28, 2006)

I might suggest that you decide what calibers you are going to be reloading and start stocking up on supplies. Primers. Powder. Brass. Bullets. 
Just got a bad feeling that these things are gonna be scarce for quite a long while.

alan


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

I was checking on a press for the SIL, gift Midway has most of the low end Lee presses "Out Of Stock, back ordered"
Friend was checking with the Lee factory, they have a seven week back log??????????


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## Michael Kawalek (Jun 21, 2007)

hunter63 said:


> I was checking on a press for the SIL, gift Midway has most of the low end Lee presses "Out Of Stock, back ordered"
> Friend was checking with the Lee factory, they have a seven week back log??????????


I just ordered a new RockChucker press on Thursday. It was in stock. Everything I ordered that day was in stock. You might want to consider getting the RockChucker kit. It's more pricy that the intro one but it has all the equipment you're likely to really want once you get into reloading.
Michael


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

wy_white_wolf said:


> DW bought me a reloading kit for Christmas. Been doing some reading from the included books. Just wondering what advise you'd give someone just starting out on reloading?


Any specific questions?

I've been reloading since I was a teenager less the 6 years in the military. I have most of the books/manuals and a few different presses from the MEC's for shotshell to the RCBS -single stage press to the Dillion progressive press and a few in between...

I know they used to have the 10 commandments of reloading in one of the books.. 

Follow it!

Don't mix components unless you have a recipe for it from one of the books..

IE don't swap a CCI primer for a Federal primer etc... they may be the same or they may be hotter.. and depending on the powder and the amount of powder may make a load that is too hot.

Always pay attention to exactly what you are doing.
Don't stop in the middle of a "run", by this I mean if you are charging a block of cases with powder, do them all. Don't stop half way and come back later to finish.

*Never* start with a max load! heed this warning....

If the recipe isn't in the book(s) you have don't use it. I know your friend may say it is safe. But it is better to get him to show you the book it is in and show it to you. Safer also..

Like I said if you have any specific questions just ask..


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## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

No specific questions yet.

She (my SIL ordered it) got me the Hornady Lock-n-Load Classic kit. I'll be loading for a .243 and 7mm mag. We already have the dies for the 7mm and the 243 are on order. Haven't bought supplies yet. I do have a bunch of stuff left over from when I had a friend load up a bunch for me. Does powder or primersever go bad? It's all about 10 years old. Any other equipment I should get just to make things easier?

They list so much for bullets and powder that it's hard to decide where to start. Guess that's more what I need to know than anything. I'd like to load up something light for the .243 just to sit and plink with. Maybe a varmit load would be best for that. I've been distracted on other things so I haven't done the shooting one needs to to stay accurate. I used that gun for deer and antelope. Mabe than load up something in the 100grain range for when I go after them.

I just got the 7mm mag a couple of years ago (DW won it in a raffle) and plan on it being for elk. I don't forsee ever going after anything larger than that unless the little brother takes me on a moose hunt to Alaska. I really don't know what to load for this gun. Only took it out once to sight it in. Bought some loads that I think where in the 150 grain range to try. 17 shots and I had a sore shoulder for 2 weeks. I really don't see myself shooting it much.


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

I had to look to see what was in the Hornady kit. It looks like a nice starter kit.

I see the kit has the latest Hornady book. This is a good place to start, but you will be limited to their bullets. So if you have Speer bullets you will need to get their book or one that is using Speer bullets.

Here is a link to Speer, this link is to their safety recommendations, but you can go to their loading data if you like.http://www.speer-bullets.com/reloading/reloading_safety.aspx 

I know we keep stressing safety, but safety is rule number one when reloading..
Don't rush yourself, just take your time and enjoy.
Once you understand the process you can take pride in working out loads that work best in your rifle.


As to the old powder, if it is in a metal can you can pour it into a white plastic bowl/ butter container once you do that tilt the bowl a little and see if there is an orange ring around the bowl, if so the powder has gotten damp and I wouldn't use it, if there is no orange ring then I would say it is ok to use. 
Now if it is in a plastic container I don't have any idea how to check the powder except for clumping...

The primers should also be ok if they have stayed dry. I get primers from as far back as the 50's every once in a while at auction and haven't had any trouble, but you have to be very careful.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

A nice load for the 243 is IMR 4350 powder (look in the loading manual for the starting weight.) A serria 85gr. HPBT game King bullet. I have shot crows with my recipte grondhogs, possums, *****, youtes and a whole bunch of deer.

 Al


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## tn_junk (Nov 28, 2006)

One of the great things about reloading is that you can load that 7MM magnum down to the level of a 7MM-08 and have a nice little deer rifle. I suggest getting a copy of the Lee reloading manual. It was always the one I went to with a question.

alan


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## Michael Kawalek (Jun 21, 2007)

Hi WWW
I have a 7mm Rem Mag also. Yeah, there is the recoil thing. Try putting a folded piece of closed cell foam (like a backpacking sleeping pad) on the butt of the gun while shooting. An upright shooting position (don't lean forward on the bench) will help reduce the apparent recoil. Shooting relatively light bullets will also help. I loaded a Speer 130 grain spitzer with 50 grains of IMR4320 to go deer hunting. Even though that is a starting load, I had complete penetration through one deer I shot with it. It took two steps and dropped dead.

If you want a good elk load try a 175 grain spitzer with 61-63 grains of RL-22. You definately want to test this load with the foam pad. I can promise though, when you pull the trigger with your sights on your elk, you will not even notice the gun going off!
Michael


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

Ok here is a list of websites that may be helpful.


http://www.alliantpowder.com/default.aspx

http://www.sierrabullets.com/index.cfm?section=about

http://www.hornady.com/

http://www.hodgdon.com/

http://www.gun-shots.net/reloading-data.shtml
This site has a entire list of sites related to reloading



http://www.accuratepowder.com/Default.htm


http://www.nosler.com/

Hope they help!


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## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

Thanks all

Now to try and digest it all. I propably won't try and reload anything until spring because the garage is just too cold right now. Just doing all I can to get ready.

WWW


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