# New member :) Fur Mite Question



## Miss M

Hi!! I'm so glad I found this forum! 

I owned a rabbit when I was young, and she grew to over 20 lbs, but I hadn't had a rabbit since. My husband and I had talked about raising rabbits for meat for a couple of years now, but just hadn't done it. For one thing, we live in an apartment.

Then someone moved out and turned their rabbit loose to be coyote bait. My husband, the maintenance supervisor, spotted him, and thought initially, because of the coloring of his fur, that he was a wild rabbit -- until he realized it was a lop. He finally managed to catch the poor thing after about a week.

I did a crash course on rabbits, and identified him as a mature male who did not seem to have been neutered, so I'm thinking he was an Easter present this past spring. I am pretty sure he's a mini-lop. Seeing the opportunity to do what we've considered for so long, we acquired a 3 1/2 month old flemish giant cross doe (crossed with what, I'm not sure, but I think possibly Californian). I figure that in spite of the buck being a mini-lop, the kits should have enough size for butchering.

I put all that in in case anyone had any other thoughts for me.

We had been noticing a small, rough patch on the buck's back, but didn't know what to think of it. Then our daughter kept noticing some rough, white areas appearing on the outsides of his ears, and finally on his face. I did some looking, and I guess he's got fur mites. I found this forum as I looked for what the options were for treating them, and I saw that you can use mineral oil or cooking oil.

We've rubbed olive oil into his back, ears, and face for three days now (once a day). How long do we need to do this to get rid of the mites? Are we doing it often enough? Does he shake his head because the oil feels weird, or because the oil isn't working?

Our daughter brings him inside (they are on a screened porch, in a divided hutch, and have the run of the porch separately for a good deal of the day) during the day so he doesn't overheat with all that oil on. He throws his tongue out of joint trying to groom the oil off. I don't want to put him through this any more than necessary. 

Thank you in advance for any thoughts and advice!


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## MaggieJ

Welcome to the forum, Miss M!  Please add your state or province to your profile... It makes it so much easier to answer questions!

He's likely shaking his head because the oil feels weird. Are there still active signs of mites? I've never had to treat for fur mites, but I have used olive oil occasionally to treat ear mites. Usually two or three treatments spaced a few days apart has been all it takes. The oil smothers the mites and should kill all the ones it is applied to. The retreatment is to get any you miss or any that hatch after treatment. It is sometimes necessary to treat all one's rabbits, depending on the degree of proximity.


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## Silver Marten

Welcome to the forum!


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## WildernesFamily

Welcome to HT 

I used Listerine for our rabbits for fur mites. Worked like a charm.


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## vikav

I've just had to treat 2 of my rabbits for fur mites, or at least that's what I thought they had. It looked like several bald spots on the back of the rabbit's neck and head, and on the back of ears. There was also stuff that looked like pretty large white flakes. 
Since we only raise them for meat, and do it organically (no chemicals), I didn't want to use Ivermectin. So I did some research and found that people recommended other things, like oil, Listerine, and Food grade diatomaceous earth. I've tried all 3: oil didn't work for me when used for 1 week, Listerine caused irritation to rabbit's skin when only applied once, DE seemed to have cleared whatever it was, but I can't guarantee it'll work for you. What I did was get food grade DE (it's important that it is food grade, NOT pool grade, as pool grade can cause people and rabbits to have serious health issues). I took a soft-bristled brush (a kind with nylon bristles, like you'd use on a baby or on a cat), very lightly dipped it into DE (you don't want to use too much, so it wouldn't fly around), covered the rabbit's face with my other, clean hand to protect the eyes and not let him inhale the DE, and brushed it through the rabbit's fur, all over the rabbit. I did this x2 on each of the rabbits, with about 10-14 days in between, and the problem was solved. The thing about DE is, you don't want to breath it in or get it in your eyes (or in rabbit's eyes), so treating the face could be problematic. The reason oil does not work very well is because the fur mites and eggs won't stay in just one spot on the rabbit. They'd be anywhere, as well as on the floors in the rabbit's environment. So if you only treat the one spot where the mites had made the damage, the eggs or mites from other places will continue to live.
IDK what to tell you, as I'm no authority on this, but I guess, you could do some research on DE for mites, and see if it does really work, as I'm not even 100% sure that mites is what my rabbits had.


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## MaggieJ

WildernesFamily said:


> Welcome to HT
> 
> I used Listerine for our rabbits for fur mites. Worked like a charm.


Could you explain exactly how you used the Listerine, WildernesFamily? Did you apply lightly, soak the affected areas, overlap into adjoining areas or what? Did you use just one treatment or was it necessary to repeat and if so, when? Did it cause any irritation to the rabbits' skin?

This is such a simple remedy that I really would like to know more about it. Thanks!


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## Guest

I was recently doing quite a bit of research on ear mites. I came across an interesting article on ear mites, fur mites, and burrowing mites (mange) on rabbits. I weighed out my options and decided to treat with ivermectin. I've only done one treatment out of the 3, and it's already completely cleared up. 

I highly recommend ivermectin to treat mites. Here is the article that I was referring to: http://www.mybunny.org/info/mites.pdf

Oh, and welcome to the board! Can't wait to see what Flemish/Cal/Mini Lop buns look like!


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## WildernesFamily

MaggieJ said:


> Could you explain exactly how you used the Listerine, WildernesFamily? Did you apply lightly, soak the affected areas, overlap into adjoining areas or what? Did you use just one treatment or was it necessary to repeat and if so, when? Did it cause any irritation to the rabbits' skin?
> 
> This is such a simple remedy that I really would like to know more about it. Thanks!


Maggie,

I poured Listerine into my hand, and rubbed it into the fur... down the bun's spine, from that little hollow in the neck area down to the tail. I had one cage where the kits were still with mama and they licked the Listerine off each other so I had to redo after a week, but in the single cages I only ever had to do that one treatment.

Of course we did also do a major clean in the bunny shed. Washed and sterilized everything, all cages, etc.

Also, I used the regular Listerine and not a generic brand.


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## Miss M

Wow! Thank you all!  I added Florida to my profile. More work on my profile later.

I had seen the other things, like the ivermectin, the DE, and the Listerine. I was afraid of getting the ivermectin wrong, and I didn't see instructions for the DE and Listerine, so I figured I'd start with the easiest one, the oil. Now I've got instructions for the others, too! Thank you!

I guess I'll know in a couple of days whether the mites are gone. If not, I'll try one of the others. It's nice to have other options. Where do you get food-grade DE? A health-food store?

Oh -- I remember I saw something on the "Natural Preventatives and Remedies for Rabbit Illnesses" about treating them with apple cider vinegar and grapefruit seed extract in their water, too. I guess it makes the skin environment unsavory for the mites. I already have both of those, so I might try that to make sure they stay gone. Too bad these drinking bottles waste so much with dripping. Oh, well.

I'm looking forward to seeing what the babies look like too! Of course, I can't get too attached to them. We'll have to do like the lady we got the doe from and name them Rabbit Fricassee, Hassenpfeffer, and so on. LOL The kids know that the mommy (Pearl) and the daddy (Thumper) are pets, but the babies will not be. I figure they'll be ready to breed around Thanksgiving.

How do you sterilize a wooden hutch?


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## MaggieJ

Miss M said:


> How do you sterilize a wooden hutch?


Not sure the best way to sterilize wood, but I know from keeping chickens that you can paint oil (probably mineral oil would be best, since it is non-toxic but will not go rancid) into the wood after cleaning to smother any lingering mites in the cracks and crevasses.


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## ladysown

you can use a spray found in pet stores as well. works well.


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## o&itw

The easiest way to sterilze would is with bleach, of course you need an outside location in a gravel driveway or some place to do it. Use some goggles or something for eye protection and keep a bucket of water handy in case you splash it on yourself. It can be "painted" on with a soft 1" paint brush. Oil might work for parasites, but it would not kill anything else and unless you used mineral oil it might tend to make the wood more of a fire hazard.

If you simply want to rid the cages of mites, you can uses some pyretherin (sp?) or one of the nicotine based insecticides...which actually are "organic". I would take the cages outside and dust them with 5% (not 10%) Sevin dust. It is actually less poisness to animals than nicotene, and very safe and effective.


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## vikav

I got food-grade DE online, in a 5 lb bag, which will last me forever. You can get it at some health food stores, but it is much more expensive. As far as I understand, it's ok for bunnies to lick it off, and may actually act as a dewormer that way. The only places you don't want it are the eyes and the lungs. I would actually get a little on a finger and rub it in the affected spots, then brush some all over. IDK that I would treat the face with it though, it's very easy to get in the eyes, since it's so light, that just brushing it in sends a bunch into the air. Listerine caused my rabbit a red, irritated spot in the place where it was applied. IDK if this was just specific to this particular rabbit as I didn't try that on the other one.

Edit: If the patches on your rabbit's skin are open wounds, IDK if DE is ok to use. Look it up, as it is irritating to eyes, so I imagine it may be irritating if there is an open sore too. I used it, rubbing it into an unbroken skin, but where the "dandruff" was.


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## Pat Lamar

I always used baby oil for EAR mites, and cat flea powder for FUR mites. They are two completely separate things requiring different treatments... except for the Ivermectin methods. On the flea powder... make sure it is for cats and not dogs, since cats groom themselves, like rabbits. Thus, the formula isn't toxic to animals, only to the mites.

Pat Lamar


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## Terry W

MaggieJ said:


> Not sure the best way to sterilize wood, but I know from keeping chickens that you can paint oil (probably mineral oil would be best, since it is non-toxic but will not go rancid) into the wood after cleaning to smother any lingering mites in the cracks and crevasses.


 Use raw linseed oil-an ol fashioned wood preservative!!!- available by the gallon at some hardware type stores. (Boiled linseed oil is chemically treated with nasty stuff)


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## rabbitpatch

A lot of feed stores either carry food grade DE or can order it for you. One of the feed stores near me sells it by the pound. My Co-op ordered a 50lb bag of it that my mom and I split.


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## Niomi

Pat Lamar said:


> I always used baby oil for EAR mites, and cat flea powder for FUR mites. They are two completely separate things requiring different treatments... except for the Ivermectin methods. On the flea powder... make sure it is for cats and not dogs, since cats groom themselves, like rabbits. Thus, the formula isn't toxic to animals, only to the mites.
> 
> Pat Lamar


I have looked all over for cat flea powder, but have not been able to find it. I couldn't even find it at Petco or PetSmart! What brand do you use and where do buy it?


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## Guest

If you can't find it in any local stores, there are TONS of places to buy it online:


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## rabbitpatch

http://www.petco.com/Shop/petco_Pro...33+30+4294960697.aspx?CoreCat=CatSFC_FleaTick


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## Pat Lamar

Niomi said:


> I have looked all over for cat flea powder, but have not been able to find it. I couldn't even find it at Petco or PetSmart! What brand do you use and where do buy it?


It's been awhile since I've had to buy any, but I believe it was Hartz brand? I usually bought it at a farm supply store.

Pat Lamar


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## rabbitpatch

Wal-mart sells Hartz stuff. I don't know about the flea powder because I don't use it, but they carry a lot of Hartz stuff. At one time, they also carried Sargents line of "Naturals" products - which included a cat flea powder.


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## Miss M

Hi! Sorry it took me so long to get back! Y'all have given me so much great information, and I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

For now, since it looks like the mites have cleared up at least to a large extent, I'm using apple cider vinegar and grapefruit seed extract in the water for both rabbits, to hopefully take care of any that might be lingering. Got this from the "Natural Preventatives and Remedies" thread:

Post by rrourk:
"Preventative for most ailments:

We are using Raw Apple Cider Vinegar *not flavored* in our water on a daily basis. Dosage: my daughter started out using 1 tsp to 1 qt water, and now is up to 1 cup to 1 gallon water.

Side note: my daughter's rabbitry really experienced a huge outbreak of fur mites, she said all she had to do was the ACV and GSE *grapefruit seed extract*. Dosage: the amount of ACV listed above and 10 drops GSE to 1 gallon water."

So I'm putting 1/2 teaspoon of raw apple cider vinegar and 1 drop of grapefruit seed extract per pint of water into their bowls. I got fed up with the water bottles, so I got dishes that clamp to the side of the cage. I will work up to 1 ounce of ACV per pint (converting from above), and 2 drops of GSE.

We have been using GSE for years to fight off illnesses. It isn't a cure-all snake oil, but if we start as soon as we start feeling like something might be coming on, and take 15-20 drops in a cup of tea (or whatever) three times a day faithfully, it usually doesn't get very bad, and usually goes away pretty quickly. So I can see how it would be good as a preventative for rabbits.

I'm going to see if I can order some DE through my feed store, just to have on hand.

Thank you all so much!!!


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## o&itw

Niomi said:


> I have looked all over for cat flea powder, but have not been able to find it. I couldn't even find it at Petco or PetSmart! What brand do you use and where do buy it?


Cat flea powder is primarily 5% Sevin dust. Check for the actual chemical name of Sevin dust, and then check the active ingredient of cat flea powder.


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## o&itw

Terry W said:


> Use raw linseed oil-an ol fashioned wood preservative!!!- available by the gallon at some hardware type stores. (Boiled linseed oil is chemically treated with nasty stuff)


Raw linseed oil is a great preservative (not much of a disinfectant though)
Boiled linseed oil is the main ingredient of oil base paint. The problem with raw linseed oil is that it takes days and days to dry (actually cure) and remains sticky for a long while.


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## jhuebner

Cat Flea power, Sevin Garden Dust, "Chicken Powder" or Ivomec hog wormer, all work to control fur mites on rabbits. 

The dust you use a couple times a week for a couple weeks. Ivomec is not on the "used for list" on the drug, but you can find/ask. We've all got/found a standard dose per # of rabbit that works. 

Let me know if you have any other questions.! 

JLH


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## MaggieJ

Miss M said:


> Hi! Sorry it took me so long to get back! Y'all have given me so much great information, and I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.
> 
> For now, since it looks like the mites have cleared up at least to a large extent, I'm using apple cider vinegar and grapefruit seed extract in the water for both rabbits, to hopefully take care of any that might be lingering. Got this from the "Natural Preventatives and Remedies" thread:
> 
> Post by rrourk:
> "Preventative for most ailments:
> 
> We are using Raw Apple Cider Vinegar *not flavored* in our water on a daily basis. Dosage: my daughter started out using 1 tsp to 1 qt water, and now is up to *1 cup to 1 gallon water.*
> 
> Side note: my daughter's rabbitry really experienced a huge outbreak of fur mites, she said all she had to do was the ACV and GSE *grapefruit seed extract*. Dosage: the amount of ACV listed above and 10 drops GSE to 1 gallon water."
> 
> So I'm putting 1/2 teaspoon of raw apple cider vinegar and 1 drop of grapefruit seed extract per pint of water into their bowls. I got fed up with the water bottles, so I got dishes that clamp to the side of the cage. I will work up to 1 ounce of ACV per pint (converting from above), and 2 drops of GSE.
> 
> We have been using GSE for years to fight off illnesses. It isn't a cure-all snake oil, but if we start as soon as we start feeling like something might be coming on, and take 15-20 drops in a cup of tea (or whatever) three times a day faithfully, it usually doesn't get very bad, and usually goes away pretty quickly. So I can see how it would be good as a preventative for rabbits.
> 
> I'm going to see if I can order some DE through my feed store, just to have on hand.
> 
> Thank you all so much!!!


*1 cup to 1 gallon water!!!!!!!!* 

I missed this dosage for apple cider vinegar when it was originally posted. It sounds like far too much to me! I use about 2 tablespoons per gallon.


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## Terry W

MaggieJ said:


> *1 cup to 1 gallon water!!!!!!!!*
> 
> I missed this dosage for apple cider vinegar when it was originally posted. It sounds like far too much to me! I use about 2 tablespoons per gallon.


I agree-- that dosage looks more like using white vinegar as a disinfectant/odor neutralizer for hard surfaces.


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## o&itw

One generalization that may help. Both rabbits and cats are more sensitive to chemicals than most other animals. In a pinch, most any medication for a cat, can be used in the same concentration for a rabbit.


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## MaggieJ

o&itw said:


> One generalization that may help. Both rabbits and cats are more sensitive to chemicals than most other animals. In a pinch, most any medication for a cat, can be used in the same concentration for a rabbit.


But *NOT*, I would like to emphasize, the other way around! Cats cannot tolerate aspirin, for instance. Please, please... always run a google search with the active ingredient of a medication, the word toxic or toxicity and the type of animal. Example: *aspirin toxic cats* Even this is not perfect insurance against accidental poisoning, but it should uncover most of the really dangerous interactions.


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## o&itw

MaggieJ said:


> But *NOT*, I would like to emphasize, the other way around! Cats cannot tolerate aspirin, for instance. Please, please... always run a google search with the active ingredient of a medication, the word toxic or toxicity and the type of animal. Example: *aspirin toxic cats* Even this is not perfect insurance against accidental poisoning, but it should uncover most of the really dangerous interactions.


I have read that (I think it is Amoxicillian, sorry that I don't have the facts at hand) is a problem for rabbits. I am unsure if cats have a problem with it or not.


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## MaggieJ

I'm just saying... cats and rabbits share many sensitivities, but please take a moment to run a check before trying something new. If I lose a meat rabbit from trying a cat med, that is unfortunate. If I lost my Marilla :benice: due to a similar error, I'd be devastated. And I'm sure owners of pet bunnies would feel the same.


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## rabbitpatch

Lots of rabbits have trouble with penicillin and pen. derivatives like amoxicillin. I've heard of people giving it in small doses, but I wouldn't risk it myself without consulting a vet.

I was at a rabbit show a few years ago where the judge was offering all kinds of advice to the kids. She said vegetable or mineral oil in the ears was best for ear mites and 5% sevin dust on the fur for fur mites. I've never had trouble with fur mites in mine, but I can attest to the vegetable oil for ear mites. Cleared it up in 2 days.


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## o&itw

MaggieJ said:


> I'm just saying... cats and rabbits share many sensitivities, but please take a moment to run a check before trying something new. If I lose a meat rabbit from trying a cat med, that is unfortunate. If I lost my Marilla :benice: due to a similar error, I'd be devastated. And I'm sure owners of pet bunnies would feel the same.


You are absolutel right Maggie. I should have said "external" medicines and refrained from doing so.


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## Miss M

MaggieJ said:


> *1 cup to 1 gallon water!!!!!!!!*
> 
> I missed this dosage for apple cider vinegar when it was originally posted. It sounds like far too much to me! I use about 2 tablespoons per gallon.





Terry W said:


> I agree-- that dosage looks more like using white vinegar as a disinfectant/odor neutralizer for hard surfaces.



I am really, REALLY glad I copy-pasted that... I just thought, a cup to a gallon, well, sounds like a lot, but okay. It surprised me that rabbits would be willing to drink that. 2T per gallon does sound more reasonable. LOL

I had already gone up to a teaspoon per pint, which would be... 8t/gal, which is 2 2/3 Tablespoons per gallon! Wow... I guess I won't go any higher, huh?

Pearl is exhibiting some signs of wool block (poops dangling from wire, and some tiny poops too), so I'm giving papaya tablets. Today was the second day in a row so far. I figure I'll give them every day for a week, then start backing off to a couple of times a week. Sound good?

I received the food grade diatomaceous earth today, and my DD and I worked it into the buns' fur -- both of them, as we found Pearl's fur full of them a couple of days ago. She's white, so they were pretty easy to see... like walking dust. Weird. Thumper's pretty laid back now, so it wasn't as hard to get it into his fur. He's colored like a wild rabbit, so now he looks like he was in a plaster explosion. Pearl's still pretty uptight. She's friendly for a farm rabbit, since she wasn't being raised as a pet, and she's slowly warming up, but she still gets very nervous when we pick her up. Not quite as bad as at first, though, when she opened up my palm!  So, progress. We gave them raisins after the DE application, hoping for forgiveness.

We put it on Thumper because he's been having a lot of dandruff since the olive oil treatments, so I'm not sure whether he still has mites or not. No more white crusty patches, but lots of dandruff.

How long does the DE take to work? I figure I reapply in a week if I still see mites.


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## Terry W

DE is relatively inexpensive--go ahead and re-apply once or twice a week for about a month, and you should have eradicated all new up and comers-- The mite life cycle is 'about' 3 weeks- and the DE will only work during specific stages of the mites life cycle (the same is true of all chemical wormers/parasitides) Apply liberally into cracks and crevices of caging and buildings, as well. If you have poultry-- DE makes for a wonderful dustbath.


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## Miss M

Ah, ok! Thank you so much! I will do that! :clap::clap::clap:


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## 5050

The Pesticide mentioned Sevin, chemical name is Carbaryl, for any folks doing research.
It's mode of action is as a stomach poison. 
In the horticulture world Sevin (Carbaryl ) makes mite infestations much worse by killing off all the mite predators. I realize this is animal not vegetable.
This stuff would be hard on your earthworm population, halting any vermiculture plans.
I am not knocking the Hartz, just an FYI


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## Miss M

5050 said:


> The Pesticide mentioned Sevin, chemical name is Carbaryl, for any folks doing research.
> It's mode of action is as a stomach poison.
> In the horticulture world Sevin (Carbaryl ) makes mite infestations much worse by killing off all the mite predators. I realize this is animal not vegetable.
> This stuff would be hard on your earthworm population, halting any vermiculture plans.
> I am not knocking the Hartz, just an FYI


Thanks for the additional info; it might come in handy for others finding this thread. I'm trying to avoid using Sevin, though I don't do vermiculture or anything. But everything has pros and cons, and it's good to have a good handle on them before using a treatment.


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## vikav

5050 said:


> This stuff would be hard on your earthworm population, halting any vermiculture plans.


DE will probably do too, but at least DE is not a poison.


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## Niomi

On another post, SquashNut stated that DE would not harm earthworms. Has anyone had problems with DE and earthworms? I would guess that DE would harm earthworms, but that is just my theory and not based on facts or experience.


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## Miss M

We reapplied the DE yesterday. I thought it had been closer to a week, but according to the dates on this thread, it was only three days after the first time?!? Anyhow, I really hope the DE works!


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## vikav

Miss M said:


> We reapplied the DE yesterday. I thought it had been closer to a week, but according to the dates on this thread, it was only three days after the first time?!? Anyhow, I really hope the DE works!


Do you see any difference?


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## Miss M

Well, I do have to say I do not notice any more rough patches in their fur. It did seem that a couple of days after the first application, that I could not find any live mites in Pearl's fur. The only thing is, I didn't get as good a look as I wanted to, and it was very cloudy (and the hutch is already on a shady screened porch). Then, before we reapplied, I could again see live mites in her fur (new hatching, I guess).

But, like I said, no more rough patches, and they both seem to be scratching a good bit less, so my guess right now is that it is working.


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## vikav

You may have already done this, but if not - you should treat their environment with something too, and not once. In addition to the new eggs hatching on their fur, they may also be picking some up from the environment they are in - the floors, the feeding equipment, etc. I think, the life cycle of the mite is about 3 weeks, so you may have to keep treating for at least that long, if not twice longer, to get rid of all of them. What a pain in the butt


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## Miss M

I have been sprinkling DE in the litterboxes, and with their fur full of it, plenty gets on the wire floor and in the pan below it. Some gets on the walls, but I do need to get more on the walls and in the crevices. I'm having massive allergy problems right now; hopefully better tomorrow. Do I need to try to apply it to the outside of plastic litterboxes, and the plastic water dishes and ceramic food crocks, and the hay wheels? Not sure how well it would stay. Do I need to put it on the ceiling, and on the outside of the hutch? I'll put it wherever I need to, I'm just not sure how far I have to go. 

Mites wouldn't stray far from their host, would they? I'm assuming they wouldn't survive very long. For instance, Thumper has been on our sofa, but I figure any mite that crawls off of him and onto the sofa would die after a while. Is that correct? Please don't tell me I need to put DE on my sofa!


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## vikav

Miss M said:


> I have been sprinkling DE in the litterboxes, and with their fur full of it, plenty gets on the wire floor and in the pan below it. Some gets on the walls, but I do need to get more on the walls and in the crevices. I'm having massive allergy problems right now; hopefully better tomorrow. Do I need to try to apply it to the outside of plastic litterboxes, and the plastic water dishes and ceramic food crocks, and the hay wheels? Not sure how well it would stay. Do I need to put it on the ceiling, and on the outside of the hutch? I'll put it wherever I need to, I'm just not sure how far I have to go.
> 
> Mites wouldn't stray far from their host, would they? I'm assuming they wouldn't survive very long. For instance, Thumper has been on our sofa, but I figure any mite that crawls off of him and onto the sofa would die after a while. Is that correct? Please don't tell me I need to put DE on my sofa!


I'd assume the eggs can end up anywhere, but I'm no authority on this. There are other things you can spray the cage and the floor/walls with, IDK what they are though. Maybe, someone else can chime in?


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## sassafrass

Hi Ms. M,

"Does he shake his head because the oil feels weird, or because the oil isn't working?"

If he's flapping his ears from side to side it means he is annoyed or frustrated, possibly because he can't get the oil off. Head shaking can also mean problems with the ears, such as ear mites.

Sassafrass


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## Moosetails

This is a really old topic.


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## arnie

anyhow a few drops of pour on ivomec in each ear or between the shoulder blades should fix the problem


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## terri9630

arnie said:


> anyhow a few drops of pour on ivomec in each ear or between the shoulder blades should fix the problem


The ivomec for cattle? We have mites for the first time and have to get them cleared up before the fair in Sept.


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