# new elevated hunting stand



## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

I had a great location to hunt but there was no place to set a tree stand after a storm put the only tree that was in an ideal location on the ground. I took the time and some salvage panels and angle iron and decided to make a permanent deer stand that I could hunt from in comfort. Here is what resulted








From the stand here are some of the "views" The new stand has been extremely productive!


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## foxfiredidit (Apr 15, 2003)

Nice, but if it's like mine it's also the coldest place in the county


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## wigglesworth (Nov 11, 2009)

I want to build one of those with some soundproofing/insulation and heat.... one of these days 

maybe even wireless internet...


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

foxfiredidit said:


> Nice, but if it's like mine it's also the coldest place in the county


Colman propane heater/cooker, Walmart 'bout $20 bucks.

Here's mine, one of my better projects............


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## Reptyle (Jul 28, 2005)

hunter63 said:


> Colman propane heater/cooker, Walmart 'bout $20 bucks.
> 
> Here's mine, one of my better projects............



Nice looking blind.

I saw one like yours but it had sliding plexiglass windows that could be opened/closed. Plexiglass was in an insulated runner so that there wouldn't be any noise when opening/closing them. Plexiglass lets you see what's going on outside even when closed. It was really nice.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

I have heat!.. A Coleman catalytic heater fired by propane. Without the heater I could not tolerate the cold where mine is located. I am still trying to figure out how to do the windows. I also need some sound deadening and an improved shooting rail. Even unfinished I have already taken 5 deer from it this season.


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## Homesteader at Heart (Aug 11, 2003)

Nice stand...and five deer already! Way to go.


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

Reptyle said:


> Nice looking blind.
> 
> I saw one like yours but it had sliding plexiglass windows that could be opened/closed. Plexiglass was in an insulated runner so that there wouldn't be any noise when opening/closing them. Plexiglass lets you see what's going on outside even when closed. It was really nice.


Mine are plexi, (had the hardware store guy cut the four pieces, in case HE broke one) hinged at top, so you open when you get there, and are clipped open with screen door clips.
Canvas "blinds" can be left hanging or slid out of the way.

Shooting shelves go all the way around the inside, serves to form a rest and pull the rounded sides in straight, so the plexi fits flatter.

I used a piece of carpet on floor, and about 6" up the sides, for sound deadening, (salvaged) as well as a swivel, height adjustable, old office chair.
Very comfy.
Before and in process pic's


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

This one I put together in about a hour and a half last year. The window was bigger than the opening because I thought the three widows were all the same size. since this one is biggwer I fixed in on a hinge so it opened out and hooked with a hook and eye.
It has since been replaced. I picked up a bunch of those windows with the 6 panes in them. I took 1x3 cut a 1/8 inch slot in it then took two of those panes laid end to end did the top and ends the same way. they hinge up from the inside to a hook and eye system. Carpeting is what was found along the road for the trash people. the shooting rail is a simple 2x2 screwed under the windows so the rifle dowesn't fit on the thin T1-11.









This one has windows salvaged from a old grarge door. Again 1x3 have slots cut in them big enough the glass will fit in them. the frame is made to fit the glass and again hinged at the top.
Here in Michigan plexaglass can not be hinged with out a frame as it get so brittle in the cold it will break. You also can not make it a slider as the grooves will fill with ice so the glass will not slide. You just have to hinge them.









Just being out of the wind an wet is really nice. We use a small back pack cook stove (unleaded fuel) for heat when we need some.

 Al


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

AY, nice job.
When I was younger, I did a lot of walking, and "Hunting", but now it seems like I'm doing a lot more sitting.

Success requires a large number of hours spent "doing the work" or being really lucky.
As mostly I need to "Do the work" I find it easier when your not just trying to survive.

Hunting is much more pleasant when your not freezing you butte off.
(Guess I'm just getting old)


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Thanks for the ideas on the windows and the sound deadening. I am also curious as to how you guys are anchoring the stands to the ground. I have driven long rebar stakes in on each side but the stand is 14' or 16' from ground to floor and it wants to move if I move. A lot of my shots are at the 250 yard range and I need all things in my favor. I am thinking about locating an anchoring pier, centered under the stand floor, in the ground by digging a deep hole with manual post hole diggers and concreting a chain in place. Then using steel cable attached to each corner of the floor steel affix the cable to the chain on the buried anchor with a large turnbuckle (2 ft long). Using the turnbuckle, I plan on drawing the deer stand tight to the earth to increase stability.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

On first one the post were set in the ground 2 ft. to start with. The new blinds post are treated 4x4x8 so is only 6 foot above the ground where it sets but since it is one of the higher places on the property the veiw is fine.

The green one is set in the ground 4 feet and the post are cedar I cut out of the swamp. You do have to brace the legs to keep the rocking out. I use the x brace system mostly.

 Al


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

Pounded in 4 fense posts at angles , one at each of the corners.
So far been there a year, no problems.
It's 10 ft high, and is really pretty stable.
Like the concrete post idea though, thanks.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Thinking on the one center anchor point some.
I would be afraid that just the center anchor point would still allow th eblind to pivot around that anchor. I would go with at least two anchors.

 Al


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

I would go with at least 3 guy wires. I think it will be hard to get it pulled down tight enough with just a center anchor.


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

fishhead said:


> I would go with at least 3 guy wires. I think it will be hard to get it pulled down tight enough with just a center anchor.


If your gonna go outside the stand, be sure to mark them well, can be a real hazard, in the dark.


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## diamondtim (Jun 10, 2005)

When I put up a stand, the supports were 8 foot sections of a newly cut tamarack trunk. Each was buried 2 feet deep and bagged cement was poured into the hole all around the trunk. Water was added and the floor was bolted on square and it was allowed to set. I used tamarack, as that is a slow rotting wood, like cedar.


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