# Water Heater Problem



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

I've been having a strange problem with what I believe to be the water heater lately. When you turn on the hot water and run it through the pipes for a bit, like for a shower or doing dishes, it is fine. But if you go to turn the water back on a few minutes after you have turned the water off there is a lot of pressure on the line. So much so that the faucet kind of jumps from the release of pressure. The water rushes out for a second and then returns to a normal stream.

Well, just a few minutes ago DW took a shower and when she got out she heard a strange noise coming from the water heater. It sounded like a tea kettle getting ready to go full boil. The noise sounded like it was coming from the pressure relief valve, could be anywhere though I suppose. When I flushed the toilet the noise went right away and hasn't come back. Faulty valve? Scale buildup? What?


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

An element in the water heater has shorted if this is an electric water heater. This is a dangerous situation and the power to the water heater needs to be turned off at the breaker ASAP. This same fault could be observed from a defective thermostat. If you have a multimeter you can use it to locate the fault.


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## mtman (Sep 2, 2004)

how old is the heater it can be the pipe that fills the cold water from the bottom. it might be broke and feeding cold water half way down that will make a noise to


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## fluegelc (Jan 16, 2012)

Sounds like the T & P valve is broke, and the heater isn't turning off.


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## Ky-Jeeper (Sep 5, 2010)

Electric or gas? Is your water hotter than normal?
Hot water outlet on the water heater come out at the very top or at the top on the side?


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

So flushing the toilet stopped the noise. That's pressure in the whole system. What happens if you run the cold full blast for as long as you might take a shower? Maybe it has to do with how long your running water not really the water heater as such just you never really run just cold for very long periods. See what happens.


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## davel745 (Feb 2, 2009)

well or city water


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## chrisl (Jan 20, 2006)

It sounds to me like you need to add a thermal expansion tank to your system. Normal residential systems needs at least a 2 gal. expansion tank plumbed into the cold water side of the water heater. I work in the plumbing field, and this is the most common problem that contributes to water heater tank failure. If your hot water is not hotter than normal then your thermostat(s) are working properly. Your T&P valve will not trip until the the water heater reaches 210 degrees or 150 psi. If your DIP tube is bad you will have limited hot water, but it will not effect your pressure. I would advise you to contact a local plumber to troubleshoot the situation. Water heaters can be a very dangerous piece of equipment if not properly repaired.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

I think if the element was staying on too long, the water would be *hotter* than usual.

It sounds more to me like there is air trapped in the lines somewhere.

When you first run the hot water, it wouldn't have any effect.

When you turn it off with hot water in the lines, it would heat the trapped air and cause it to expand, thereby increasing pressure .

That would explain the momentary rush of water you get when you turn it back on


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

The water heater is electric and about 10 years old. I installed it a few days before we moved in as the old one here was bad. We switched from cistern to city water last spring. The water isn't any warmer than it has ever been.

Yes, the water heater immediately quit making the noise as soon as the toilet was flushed and I haven't heard anything else the rest of the day. I don't understand the cold water suggestion. It only happens when the hot water is running for awhile.

As far as air in the line. I do still have a tee with about a 6"-8" length of pipe coming off in the pump house when I laid the line last spring, but never had any problem until now. The tee was left for an outdoor shower project I've not had the time for as it's one thing after the other. That tee is before it ever comes into the house of course. I guess air could have worked its way in there over time?


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> I do still have a tee with about a 6"-8" length of pipe coming off in the pump house


It would have to be *in or very near *the hot water line for my theory to work.

Does it happen on *all *the hot water fixtures?


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## Drizler (Jun 16, 2002)

How long since you last drained it? I remember mine was making some strange gurgling sounds and ended up the bottom electrode was buried in calcium brine I had to flush out. They will act pretty weird when they get a large amount of sediment in there. You also should put a multimeter on those elements when someone is taking a shower and make sure that both are working right. First the top one comes on until it drains down a bit then it goes off and the other kicks on (might be the other way around, it's been a while). Either way it's one then the other never both. Check the wire hasn't come off. You can check if the element is working by removing the 2 wires and seeing if there is continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means burned out. If you end up needing a new one make sure you get the right type as they make bolt on and screw on. 10 years old is gettin pretty long in the tooth also for an electric.........


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## davel745 (Feb 2, 2009)

I was going to comment on maybe a pressure switch problem but it is only the hot water and you switched to city water. I think that the problem may of been covered by others


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Kitchen or bathroom faucet both jump (whichever one you use first afterwards) after using the hot water for awhile. I was shaving last night and when I got done I heard the 'tea kettle' noise from the water heater once again. Not quite as loud this time though. It has been a few years since I drained it. I'll try to check the elements with the multimeter and get the hose hooked up later this evening.


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## Ky-Jeeper (Sep 5, 2010)

Like another poster said, it may be sediment covering your lower element. Back years ago my gas water heater sounded the same way.

In a related story my buddies electric water heater was slow at recovering after a shower. Bought a heater element wrench, removed the element. Low and behold the sediment was almost over the element. We made a small make shift vaccum hose and got it out. It may make you sick to look at. So don't let any other family members look inside"lol" or you will be buying another water heater.

Ky-Jeeper


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

I got it drained and put the multimeter on the elements. I only got about a horsepill worth of sediment that came out of the entire tank. I would have got more sediment than that to come out if there was a lot in there, right?

IDK if I took the measurements right, but I used 200 OHM setting and got 15.5 on the upper element and 15.1 on the lower.


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## Ky-Jeeper (Sep 5, 2010)

My two used spare 240v/4500w elements read 12.1 and 12.4. and they are completely dry. Congrats on a clean water heater. I ask in a earlier post where the hot water comes out. Very top, or at the side near the top? Reason be air may be trapped. Any way you could bleed the tank of air. Someone mentioned a expansion tank that may help..


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

You need to measure from L1 and L2 on each element to ground. Do this on both elements and have the wires disconnected at the elements. Naturally with the power off!

You need to measure each thermostat as they can weld together at the points and not open when they should thus remaining on causing over heating the water.




How Do I said:


> I got it drained and put the multimeter on the elements. I only got about a horsepill worth of sediment that came out of the entire tank. I would have got more sediment than that to come out if there was a lot in there, right?
> 
> IDK if I took the measurements right, but I used 200 OHM setting and got 15.5 on the upper element and 15.1 on the lower.


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## Guest (Jan 23, 2012)

They have stated that the water isn't any hotter than normal so that to me says the heater isn't overheating . It was also stated that they switched to city water which usually has a backflow preventer / check valve . Sounds to me like an expansion tank might be needed .


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

WV Hillbilly
How do we know the thermostat is not functioning intermittently?


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Water enters and exits through the top. I'm leaning towards the expansion tank myself now unless someone else has another idea.


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

agmantoo said:


> You need to measure from L1 and L2 on each element to ground. Do this on both elements and have the wires disconnected at the elements. Naturally with the power off!
> 
> You need to measure each thermostat as they can weld together at the points and not open when they should thus remaining on causing over heating the water.


Naturally with the power off! - _Where's your sense of adventure?_ - J/K

I _always_ shut off the main breaker when working on electrical. I have this weird thing about wanting my heart to continue beating. Don't ask me why. :shrug:


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## davel745 (Feb 2, 2009)

I was thinking about this problem and was wondering what changed? Wasn&#8217;t things working ok then things changed. There wasn&#8217;t ever a expansion tank before? I suspect that the stub at the well house may have been the expansion tank so to speak, it may be water logged. Maybe drain it and allow the air to be trapped again.


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

davel745 said:


> I was thinking about this problem and was wondering what changed? Wasnât things working ok then things changed. There wasnât ever a expansion tank before? I suspect that the stub at the well house may have been the expansion tank so to speak, it may be water logged. Maybe drain it and allow the air to be trapped again.


I'll try that too. The stub is right behind my outdoor spigot so I can close the valve on the pipe coming out of the ground. Close the valve inside right before the water heater and then empty the water in that line out through the spigot. Worth a shot.


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

mtman said:


> how old is the heater it can be the pipe that fills the cold water from the bottom. it might be broke and feeding cold water half way down that will make a noise to


How could you tell if that pipe is broken? And how would that affect the operation of the water heater if left running in that condition for very long? Would it have corroded after ten years? I didn't see any other type of material in the sand-like calcium that came out of the hose. Considering what has been found so far would you still suspect that?


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## pipedreamer (Jan 23, 2012)

Licensed plumber .... Check your supply valve above the heater if its the old style "gate" valve it could be partially stuck closed ,older gate valves can "drop a wedge " from turning it on or off because of age and corrosion .you have a restriction of flow either in that valve ,the supply flexes or the supply nipples that are also on top the heater also check for a partially clogged dip tube located on the cold side opening of the tank .as far as the hissing sound frppom the unit ,either the upper or lower thermo stat is defective causing the temp.pressure relief valve to pop off at 210 degrees or 150 psi.


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