# civil war era unmentionables



## kandmcockrell (Oct 10, 2008)

Ok. I have the corset. But i need to know what else i need. I know pantlets, open crotch, a corset cover or camisol and then a chemise, right? The chemise goes under the corset, the pantlets go you know where, and the camisol over the corset. Is that right?

Is the chemise long or does it stop about hip length?

Also, i have looked, but could not find any direction for making said items. Lots of patterns, but they look so easy, anyone know of free directions?

Or have pictures of some you have done?

Also, I have a hoop skirt, I still need a pettiecoat to go over that before the skirt or dress, right? Or does the pettiecoat go under the hoopskirt or both?


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## Cyngbaeld (May 20, 2004)

"New Civilian Re-enactor Handbook"
Can't figure out how to post the url for a doc file download, but google on the phrase in quotes, keeping the quote marks in place.


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## westbrook (May 10, 2002)

will you be needing a bigger butt? :teehee:

I came across this tutorial on enlarging your bottom. It made me smile! but is
interesting.

http://slightly-obsessed.blogspot.com/2007/10/baby-got-back.html

:shrug:


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## mustangsally17 (Nov 3, 2007)

Ok, That is funny!! LOL


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## Michele of MI (Jul 8, 2009)

This site has some interesting free patterns, and yes, I have made some of them. Not a lot for the civil war era, but there appears to be a corset pattern, and if you think about it, some of the 1850's patterns would still have been in use. And they're free!http://www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/index.html
Past patterns has some interesting patterns too, although they are not free. http://www.pastpatterns.com


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## kandmcockrell (Oct 10, 2008)

Thanks for the post!

I don't think i am going to need a bigger butt, thank goodness! I am going for early victorian/ Civil War so i can elude the bustle. Do have to manage the hoop skirt and underskirts and such.

My mom picked up a pattern she saw for the chemise, pantlets, so know just need to figure out the corset cover, or camisol, and under petticoat. Apparently, sometimes they were attached and sometimes not.


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## Ann-NWIowa (Sep 28, 2002)

Be careful when you sit down while wearing a hooped skirt. Definitely practice at home in private first!!


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

Which of course makes one think of that Carol Burnett episode where she's Scarlet O'Hara wearing the drapes.


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## kandmcockrell (Oct 10, 2008)

That is my great fear. The hoops over the head because of the wind, or that i will miss the seat and not be able to get back up.

I need to do lots of practicing!


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## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

I have been reenacting Civil War era for about 15 years and sew the clothes professionally. You will be surprised at how easy it is to get around in a cage crinoline if you get one done right. DO NOT buy one with the hooping made of anything other than spring steel, it will collapse to allow you to sit and then spring back into it's round shape when you stand. I have seen cheap ones make with packing strips than of course bend and do not spring back. Sitting is not a problem, it will not fly up but bending over from the waist to pick up something will give everyone a good view of your backside, learn a ladylike stoop and knell LOL.

Here are the layers you need and the order. First (1) chemise, should be about mid calf length (2) drawers--split crotch style (believe me, you will understand why when you go to the bathroom) you can tuck the chemise into the drawers or not, personal preference and either way is period accurate (3) corset (4) modesty petticoat, about mid calf length and about 90" circumference--why? remember the bending over from the waist scenario--this will keep you covered if you forget and do it (5) skirt support ie. cage crinoline or corded petticoat (6) one or two over the cage petticoat made nice and full (at least 150" circumference). Corset covers are a rare thing in the mid 19th Century, they came in more around the 1880's so don't bother with one, it just adds unnecessary bulk and fabric. BTW be sure to put on your stockings and shoes before you put on your corset, trust me.

The Martha McCain Simplicity patterns are ok but, if you will go to Elizabeth Stewart Clark's website http://www.elizabethstewartclark.com/ you can get directions for drafting your own for free for the chemise, drawers, petticoats and a few other items. The forum there is called "The Sewing Academy" http://thesewingacademy.org/ and you will find answers to questions you have not even thought of there regarding mid 19th Century sewing. As far as corsets, I do not advise using a pattern that is not a mid 19th Century style since different eras were different shapes. The mid 19th Century corsets were meant to make the body a smooth v shape from bust to waist and to maintain the right size so that the dress fit from one day to the next. The 1840's corsets were shapped differently, more long waisted to accomodate the deeper v pointed bodices and the late victorian corsets even more so, so basically they are not interchangable in a historically accurate sense.

Hope I have not bored everyone to tears. I have been lurking here for some time and have learned so much that, in an instance such as this when I can pay back a bit with my own knowledge and 15 years of research on this particular subject it feels good to be able to contribute.

Cheers,
Maggie


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