# Thinking about a quonset hut house



## shawnlee

…..or steel building.


The appealing thing with the Quonset is high wind resistance, some claim 140 mph sustained winds. This will be in Kansas, so wind/tornado is a concern. I know it would certainly not be a tornado shelter.

Some other selling points for me, cheap to build the initial structure......no roofing...painting etc maintenance you have with a normal house. Resale value is not a high concern for me nor is looks, although some of the pics of them looked pretty nice.

I also like the idea of a steel building with a normal house profile, but the lack of wind resistance is a concern, maybe it should not be, but in a tornado area I am thinking any resistance is good. I would like to avoid the insurance costs/yearly bills. With a standard structure I would feel the need to insure due to being more vulnerable and the higher investment costs.

You can find a bunch of houses made from them in various styles now, so I am sure a lot of the possible problems with them are known now, when I looked into this 10 years ago it was fairly a new concept.

Would you live in a Quonset hut house ? ….or buy a already built one with property ?


----------



## painterswife

I would live in one but I would not count on one in a hurricane. First tornado I ever saw scatter several all over. It is about how the wind can lift it and what can fall on it.


----------



## mreynolds

Steel building are also rated at at least 120 mph winds. Nothing is tornado proof but every little bit helps.


----------



## wr

My best friend's parents live in a quonset that they converted to a house many years ago and it's quite nice inside.


----------



## Redlands Okie

All about practical in cost and maintence first and looks later on the list. Personally a fan of metal buildings of any shape. Lots of old round top buildings around with no maintence and have held up to bad weather fine.


----------



## gerold

Redlands Okie said:


> All about practical in cost and maintence first and looks later on the list. Personally a fan of metal buildings of any shape. Lots of old round top buildings around with no maintence and have held up to bad weather fine.


 Do you plan on a concrete floor


Redlands Okie said:


> All about practical in cost and maintence first and looks later on the list. Personally a fan of metal buildings of any shape. Lots of old round top buildings around with no maintence and have held up to bad weather fine.


Very good idea if you like that shape of building. A lot of women would not go for that kind of home.

1. Local codes.
2. Type of foundation.
3. Size.
4. Orientation.
5. New or used.
6. Cost.
Just a few things to consider before jumping in.


----------



## Wolf mom

At one time I was going to build a geodesic dome for a home. Lots of positives in that shape.


----------



## Bearfootfarm

Very few above ground structures can stand up to a direct hit from a tornado, but domed buildings are great at withstanding hurricanes. 
They will need periodic maintenance to prevent rust, but Q huts can last as long as any other structure. 

I'd be as concerned with rusting from the bottom up as I would be with from the roof down.


----------



## AZSongBird1973

I don't know much about quonset huts so I can't really chime in there. But a steel building would be the way I would go. And there's a lot of ways to go about that too. I work with Prime buildings out of Texas quite a bit for pre-engineered structures. 
http://www.primebldg.com
The last milk parlor from Prime that I did the steel for 2 years ago was engineered and rated to withstand sustained 120 mile per hour winds. There are a lots of options and variable that will drive cost on the shell but the interior will be similar to a conventionally built home depending on how finished you want it. If you live in an area where permitting isn't necessary and you don't care about whether or not it's insureable and all the other beuracracy associated, you can certainly design the building, purchase the materials, and build it yourself or possibly find a contractor willing to work with you.


----------



## haypoint

There are all sorts of "alternative" home structures. Seems what most people forget or do not understand, the basic structure is but a fraction of the cost of a home. I think a Quonset shape would eat up time and materials working around the curves. Same for geodesic shapes. I know some people that made a home out of a big silo. The silo was free, but curved cupboards and creating a inner structure to attach insulation, curved stairways made it a costly home. Even stacked bale homes cost saved by not needing a lumber frame, is tiny when you look at all the rest of the costs that remain.
Sure you can build a pole barn fairly cheap. But then framing it out to hang insulation, drywall, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, doors, windows, etc. When you are done you may have saved $5.000. but you have a pole barn house that is likely worth a lot less than a conventional home. So, over all, you lose money.
If you list high wind resistance, ease of heating and cooling and somewhat of a do it yourself method, I'd pick ICF. Insulated concrete forms. Hollow forms that you stack up like Legos. Add rebar, pour in the concrete and you have a storm proof home with high insulation value. Just screw on the siding and drywall and move in. You can even pour an insulated floor, making the basement a storm shelter. Get fancy and even the pitched roof can be poured. Strong, quiet and well insulated. Buildblock, Amvic, Quadlock and Fox are common brands.


----------



## AmericanStand

Wolf mom said:


> At one time I was going to build a geodesic dome for a home. Lots of positives in that shape.


And every joint and corner is a negative that adds up to about a million negatives.


----------



## AmericanStand

haypoint said:


> There are all sorts of "alternative" home structures. Seems what most people forget or do not understand, the basic structure is but a fraction of the cost of a home. I think a Quonset shape would eat up time and materials working around the curves. Same for geodesic shapes. I know some people that made a home out of a big silo. The silo was free, but curved cupboards and creating a inner structure to attach insulation, curved stairways made it a costly home. Even stacked bale homes cost saved by not needing a lumber frame, is tiny when you look at all the rest of the costs that remain.
> Sure you can build a pole barn fairly cheap. But then framing it out to hang insulation, drywall, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, doors, windows, etc. When you are done you may have saved $5.000. but you have a pole barn house that is likely worth a lot less than a conventional home. So, over all, you lose money.
> If you list high wind resistance, ease of heating and cooling and somewhat of a do it yourself method, I'd pick ICF. Insulated concrete forms. Hollow forms that you stack up like Legos. Add rebar, pour in the concrete and you have a storm proof home with high insulation value. Just screw on the siding and drywall and move in. You can even pour an insulated floor, making the basement a storm shelter. Get fancy and even the pitched roof can be poured. Strong, quiet and well insulated. Buildblock, Amvic, Quadlock and Fox are common brands.


A point I was with you until you got to the part about ICG (insane Concrete Foulup!)
The only thing ICF does is takes the best qualities and ruined them. 
Why make concrete complicated and difficult expensive and weak?


----------



## haypoint

AmericanStand said:


> A point I was with you until you got to the part about ICG (insane Concrete Foulup!)
> The only thing ICF does is takes the best qualities and ruined them.
> Why make concrete complicated and difficult expensive and weak?


There are two types of ICF. O ne style has insulating foam through the concrete. The other is a solid concrete wall, in various thicknesses, with foam insulation on both sides. You get the insulation qualities of closed cell insulation and the thermal advantages and storm resistances of steel reinforced poured concrete.
As with any building method, check it out yourself, go to a build, talk to a homeowner, study the process.


----------



## AmericanStand

And neither method is useful.


----------



## Bearfootfarm

AmericanStand said:


> And neither method is useful.


LOL
Many things aren't "useful".
ICF's are.


----------



## mreynolds

AmericanStand said:


> And neither method is useful.


Where do you get that info from?


----------



## shawnlee

This is being bounced around idea wise VS the restoration of the original farm house which had a fire.

I think I am going to remove Quonset from the options as it was there strictly because of wind resistance over a steel building with a normal profile.

To make a Quonset look nice, you need to go all out and that's not what I want to do in this case.....











I was not going for this look...lol











While a large standard profile steel building can have that slight industrial look to it, its much more recognizable as a house structure than a Quonset.


----------



## AmericanStand

mreynolds said:


> Where do you get that info from?


 Experience
The least expensive way to obtain well insulated steel reinforced poured concrete walls is to simply insulate a conventailly poured wall. 
You can’t get better or cheaper.


----------



## Bearfootfarm

AmericanStand said:


> Experience


Your "experience" often seems far different from reality.



AmericanStand said:


> The least expensive way to obtain well insulated steel reinforced poured concrete walls is to simply insulate a conventailly poured wall.


ICF is "conventionally poured" since it's still just pouring concrete into forms.

The main difference is with ICF construction, the forms don't have to be removed, and they are already insulated, saving both time and money.


----------



## shawnlee

Usually most things have their place...….

I am located in socal, but any desert or heavy winter location will need to be insulated above ground, for me, concrete is great with a traditional pour for underground as you want the thermal mass and conductivity.

I looked into doing below grade, berm covered as that has true tornado resistance, but for the funds I want to spend and what other options would costs, since I would not do the work myself for fear of engineering issues, it would cost more than I want to spend.

But, traditionally poured/berm covered is about ideal as it gets for Kansas due to being highly efficient and almost tornado proof...very tornado safe ! …..and almost no heating cooling needs.


----------



## mreynolds

AmericanStand said:


> Experience
> The least expensive way to obtain well insulated steel reinforced poured concrete walls is to simply insulate a conventailly poured wall.
> You can’t get better or cheaper.


What is the difference if you install the concrete first then the styrofoam or the styrofoam first then the concrete? 

Oh yeah, since you have to pour the concrete anyway it might be quicker to install the foam as a form board and save the time.


----------



## AmericanStand

mreynolds said:


> What is the difference if you install the concrete first then the styrofoam or the styrofoam first then the concrete?
> 
> Oh yeah, since you have to pour the concrete anyway it might be quicker to install the foam as a form board and save the time.


 It seems like it should be but it isn’t. 
Moreover you pay a lot more for those foam forms. Than the rental on a good set of forms.


----------



## Bearfootfarm

AmericanStand said:


> Moreover you pay a lot more for those foam forms. Than the rental on a good set of forms.


You pay for the labor to set up and remove them also.

Then you pay for the insulation, fasteners and labor to install that too.

You should stop digging the hole you're in.


----------



## mreynolds

Bearfootfarm said:


> You pay for the labor to set up and remove them also.
> 
> Then you pay for the insulation, fasteners and labor to install that too.
> 
> You should stop digging the hole you're in.


Do you think I should tell him this is what I do for a living?


----------



## Bearfootfarm

mreynolds said:


> Do you think I should tell him this is what I do for a living?


It won't matter.

Long ago, in a galaxy far away, I built and set forms and helped pour concrete too.
Taking them down is a LOT harder than setting them up.


----------



## Fishindude

Any type of structure; wood, metal, concrete, masonry, pole bldg, etc. can be designed to withstand high winds, but hardly anything can withstand a direct hit from a tornado or hurricane. There are universal building codes and wind load tables established for all areas of the US. If you build accordingly, your structure will withstand all but the very worst case scenario conditions.

I'm a big fan of the pole buildings finished out as houses and have one for my hunting cabin. They are very economical to build, look pretty nice and have a very low maintenance exterior. I think quonset huts are are pretty butt ugly.


----------



## haypoint

ICF allows the insulation to be installed, with the attachments for drywall and attachments for siding. Conventional poured concrete walls require furring strips attached to the concrete, inside for the insulation and outside for the siding. If you want to take advantage of the thermal mass of the concrete, you'd need to add studs or firring strips on both sides. Pouring a first floor insulated floor is costly without the time, labor, concrete and money savings of ICF.

It isn't uncommon for older professionals to shun modern developments within their industry. No one lives to have advancements render their skills outmoded. The housing industry is notorious for slow adaptation to advances.


----------



## Bearfootfarm

Fishindude said:


> but hardly anything can withstand a direct hit from a tornado or hurricane.


My house (along with many others) has withstood all the hurricanes that have hit here in the last 123 years.

I know that includes some winds up to 120 MPH.

A strong tornado could easily be twice as much wind speed though.


----------



## shawnlee

The more I read and more penciling I do, the more it is making sense to fix the existing farm house.

It has stood since the late 20`s, chances are it will be fine for quite some time and to get real tornado protection would require a concrete under grade structure that I am not willing to spend the time/money and labor on.


A ruff estimate of materials required for the existing to get back to weather tight shell is about 12K....that's a new insulated metal roof, 2x6 walls, plumbing/electric/drywall/insulation and new windows, with the exterior power washed and painted...….


There was a fire that burned a giant hole in the living room floor and a huge hole thru the roof, but the structure is still pretty sound otherwise. The wood sided exterior is in great shape other than needing power washed and painted, the wood is solid and in tact. The foundation is still solid and in tact and all the exterior walls are still solid and in tact, I would be framing them out to 2x6 depth to get a straight surface that allows r-19 insulation.

Installing shear straps/bracing etc to bring that up more modern too.

There is a shelter underground outside the door for tornado`s in the event of a worst case, but a EF4 passed very close in 2013 and there was no damage. I have lived in tornado country before so I do not have a unnatural fear of them and have been very close or what is considered in them before. They have to be super close and they are localized, so I will take the tornado considerations off my list of requirements.






That was very close to my property......you would have been able to see my property in all that footage if it was a sunny clear day.


----------



## gerold

shawnlee said:


> The more I read and more penciling I do, the more it is making sense to fix the existing farm house.
> 
> It has stood since the late 20`s, chances are it will be fine for quite some time and to get real tornado protection would require a concrete under grade structure that I am not willing to spend the time/money and labor on.
> 
> 
> A ruff estimate of materials required for the existing to get back to weather tight shell is about 12K....that's a new insulated metal roof, 2x6 walls, plumbing/electric/drywall/insulation and new windows, with the exterior power washed and painted...….
> 
> 
> There was a fire that burned a giant hole in the living room floor and a huge hole thru the roof, but the structure is still pretty sound otherwise. The wood sided exterior is in great shape other than needing power washed and painted, the wood is solid and in tact. The foundation is still solid and in tact and all the exterior walls are still solid and in tact, I would be framing them out to 2x6 depth to get a straight surface that allows r-19 insulation.
> 
> Installing shear straps/bracing etc to bring that up more modern too.
> 
> There is a shelter underground outside the door for tornado`s in the event of a worst case, but a EF4 passed very close in 2013 and there was no damage. I have lived in tornado country before so I do not have a unnatural fear of them and have been very close or what is considered in them before. They have to be super close and they are localized, so I will take the tornado considerations off my list of requirements.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was very close to my property......you would have been able to see my property in all that footage if it was a sunny clear day.


What is the size of this house. Seems the est. for roof, elec., walls etc. is way under priced. Who worked up that est. for you.


----------



## shawnlee

gerold said:


> What is the size of this house. Seems the est. for roof, elec., walls etc. is way under priced. Who worked up that est. for you.



Approx 30x30...…...that's a materials estimate.


112 ...2x6x10 for the walls approx. 1K....optional*
60....2x6x16 for roof....approx. $800
25 sheets roof sheathing to fill in approx. $ 500
Metal roofing approx. $1500
Foam for under metal roofing approx. #600
3000 ft2 insulation approx. 2K.....very high estimate*
60 sheets drywall approx. $800
electrical approx. 1K
windows approx. 2K
Plumbing approx. 1K includes any possible outside to the well runs*
Floor joists and sheeting approx. $800

Total approx. 12K...……

By the time I get paint, nails/screws/kitchen/bath/fixtures etc etc etc, should be pushing close to 20K


Keep in mind the only code on this property is the county wants to know where the septic tank is, no permit required or fee.


There is no need for a electrical outlets every 2 inches or 15 switches at every possible entry to a room....I only use about 3 switches now in my current house even though it has a bazzilion of them, same with plugs I literally use 4 plugs in the entire house and the 4th is when cleaning.

I am going open floor plan, so no need for a dozen light fixtures I will never use.

I will be living off grid, but on grid......its all about frugal and minimizing things, but not suffering......AC/ heat/lights, but in a frugal type manner. No need to burn 10 lights in the daytime....I hardly ever turn the inside lights on, even at night.

With a open floor plan a nice efficient wood burning stove, well insulated, so cheap to cool...…...good windows for plenty of ventilation on cool mornings and times of the year and light in side so no running lights all the time.

Plumbing will be localized and minimal so no runs all over the house like spaghetti, instant on units at each location so only one water pipe per run, with a centralized plumbing wall that contains all the plumbing for the house, located at the closest point where the well line enters.

Very minimal and very frugal is the theme here, without making it unsafe or hard to live in.


----------



## Evons hubby

shawnlee said:


> Approx 30x30...…...that's a materials estimate.
> 
> 
> 112 ...2x6x10 for the walls approx. 1K....optional*
> 60....2x6x16 for roof....approx. $800
> 25 sheets roof sheathing to fill in approx. $ 500
> Metal roofing approx. $1500
> Foam for under metal roofing approx. #600
> 3000 ft2 insulation approx. 2K.....very high estimate*
> 60 sheets drywall approx. $800
> electrical approx. 1K
> windows approx. 2K
> Plumbing approx. 1K includes any possible outside to the well runs*
> Floor joists and sheeting approx. $800
> 
> Total approx. 12K...……
> 
> By the time I get paint, nails/screws/kitchen/bath/fixtures etc etc etc, should be pushing close to 20K
> 
> 
> Keep in mind the only code on this property is the county wants to know where the septic tank is, no permit required or fee.
> 
> 
> There is no need for a electrical outlets every 2 inches or 15 switches at every possible entry to a room....I only use about 3 switches now in my current house even though it has a bazzilion of them, same with plugs I literally use 4 plugs in the entire house and the 4th is when cleaning.
> 
> I am going open floor plan, so no need for a dozen light fixtures I will never use.
> 
> * I will be living off grid, but on grid......its all about frugal and minimizing things, but not suffering......AC/ heat/lights, but in a frugal type manner. No need to burn 10 lights in the daytime....I hardly ever turn the inside lights on, even at night.*
> 
> With a open floor plan a nice efficient wood burning stove, well insulated, so cheap to cool...…...good windows for plenty of ventilation on cool mornings and times of the year and light in side so no running lights all the time.
> 
> Plumbing will be localized and minimal so no runs all over the house like spaghetti, instant on units at each location so only one water pipe per run, with a centralized plumbing wall that contains all the plumbing for the house, located at the closest point where the well line enters.
> 
> Very minimal and very frugal is the theme here, without making it unsafe or hard to live in.


If you plan to connect to the grid at any point for any reason your power company is going to want to inspect your wiring which will be required to meet national electric code specs prior to connecting and turning your power on. You may want to put those required gfi circuits in along with proper number of switches and plug ins and have it all approved by your power supplier before calling in the insulation/drywall crews. If you are providing your own power..... Do as you see fit.


----------



## Shrek

haypoint said:


> There are two types of ICF. O ne style has insulating foam through the concrete. The other is a solid concrete wall, in various thicknesses, with foam insulation on both sides. You get the insulation qualities of closed cell insulation and the thermal advantages and storm resistances of steel reinforced poured concrete.
> As with any building method, check it out yourself, go to a build, talk to a homeowner, study the process.


My maintenance guy and I have already decided that if my big tree ever falls into my bunker of a house and I survive , I will put in a insulated roof steel Quonset style building on the same main footprint losing only one small 4 foot walk in closet and fiberous concrete berm the sides for storm resistance so if I ever lose any of the structure all I will lose is the front porch and sunroom parts and antenna farm so my radios will work inside the steel house and make the Quonset structure look more house like.

When I told what I had in mind, he said yes , it would make a nice tornado safe house but I better be prepared for all my neighbors to come ringing my bell to visit if a dark cloud comes up instead of driving to the community storm shelter a half mile away which I don't use because I cant take my dogs to it. 

I still consider the storm resistant steel Quonset as a post demolish and didn't kill me option since it would be about $10k less than replacing my current 18 inch block wall , steel beam reinforced roof and foundation 65 year old bunker strong house but I hope this farm house built by the guy in the 1950s and as storm wary as me will outlive me because all the neighbors around here don't realize it is more wind and storm resistant than other houses in our area.


----------



## shawnlee

Yvonne's hubby said:


> If you plan to connect to the grid at any point for any reason your power company is going to want to inspect your wiring which will be required to meet national electric code specs prior to connecting and turning your power on. You may want to put those required gfi circuits in along with proper number of switches and plug ins and have it all approved by your power supplier before calling in the insulation/drywall crews. If you are providing your own power..... Do as you see fit.


 Thanks, I appreciate the advice as every situation is different and that info might save some one a lot of money and hard work……..

I have the power on, when we called and they came out, they said we don't care if you wire the house with extension cords....then proceeded to flip the main shut off , off below the meter and turned on power, said from the disconnect on is yours to do whatever you want, however you want.


I was concerned because there was a mass of bare spliced wires all over the place running on top of the ground to the well pump, they simply flipped the disconnect, installed the meter and recommended I check the wiring good before turning the main disconnect back on.

I have been doing construction for over 25 years, it will be to code, just not the stupid codes that dictate how many plugs you must have, if you do not know to not plug in 100 extention cords to one outlet, it is just natural selection at work. 

Yes, I will also have GFI plugs and any exterior plugs will be GFI or a GFI breaker...…


There are literally no codes what so ever here, like in a few places around the country still, where a person is free to reap the rewards of their own ignorance. Buddy moved away from Cali a while back, bought some country property and with him growing up in over regulated California he was ready, had a set of plans for his new house drawn up and headed to the city hall armed with what he needed to get started. They looked at them and asked why he had those and what he wanted them to do...….he said I am building a house on my property, their reply was better build it good or it will fall down and kill you, not exact words, but that was basically the advice they offered.

Strangely, they also wanted septic location only, whatever else you did was all on the owner.

I could see problems if selling or financing and you got a bank involved, then you get into the red tape, inspections, insurance and every thing else they force on people, thank god I do not have to deal with that.

That was one of the main first questions I had when purchasing my property and did due diligence down at city hall, made sure there were no building codes in my location, no inspections, no permits etc etc etc required. They just wanted a septic location.

Don't get me wrong, I completely understand why the codes are mandatory and needed living here in California, last thing I want is a fool thinking he could wire his house with extension cords so close to mine and killing half the block in a fire or him selling that property to another fool and them plugging in 3 houses on the street to one of his outlets for a fee...….

I am not anti code at all, I just simply do not need 32 outlets in my house every 6 foot to discourage foolish actions, I simply have no need for them, it will have a ample amount for any what ifs like a lamp etc, just not every 6 feet or 3 way light switches every where in case some one comes in a door and is to incompetent to walk in the dark and might trip.


IMHO, life has become too protected and we now have a population with people to ignorant to not walk off a cliff playing pokemon on a phone.

On top of enjoying the outdoors and country life and country people, I want as far away from the fools as possible and the regulations as possible......I replaced a window here ,California, a few months ago and with a new certified California compliant zone x window, which is another BS thing, a person can live with a broken out widow, but not put in a new one like the old one to match the rest of the house, it has to be special approved window,,,,, the window cost 100 bucks,perfectly reasonable, and the permit was the same price as the window, for the inspector to get 10 foot away from it and say this is all you are doing, replacing a window in the attic, I cant believe some do gooder called us to report unpermitted work.

Of course it was the proper window and up to code, that's what I used to do for a living....

So double the cost for the inspector to come out and tell me permits and codes are silly.....and not inspect the window, which was fine by me, here`s your money now go away and leave me alone...…

I honestly cant wait to get out of here and be free to pursue happiness and freedom again. No emissions inspections, no auto inspections, no overburdened/over taxed/over reaching laws to try and take every penny I make by regulating me to death. 

Property tax here each year is almost 30 years worth where I am moving...…..but this has turned into a huge crazy person rant and certainly not directed at anyone here. I shall back away from the coffee and soap box now.....


My apologies, if it seems directed at anyone here, and for the rant...…..counting the seconds before I can leave this state and be free again.


----------



## empofuniv

I was instantly transported back to 1968 when I read the title of this post. Then laughed so loud the dog woke up and started barking! Hunter's Point Naval Shipyard. San Francisco CA. Mr's 1st duty station out of Navy Boot Camp in San Diego was Treasure Island, but there was no housing available so we were quartered at Hunter's Point. There were old Q huts on the lower perimeter of the Yard. Divided in half cross wise, and a family in each half. And each Q hut had a stack of bricks on each end of the hut. In the winter time, during high tide that lower part of the Yard would flood, with bay water washing into the storm drains, and if there was a heavy rain during high tide there would be water in the Q huts cause the storm drains were full of bay water. The bricks were to set your furniture up on! The Big E (USS Enterprise) was in dry dock there for overhaul. Thanks for the trip down memory lane! I always said if I could have San Francisco with San Diego's weather that would be perfect for me. In 1973 we were there again but that time quartered on The Presidio which was an Army base. Our eldest daughter born in Letterman Army Hospital on the Presidio in 1969, the 1st time we were in San Francisco. Sure has put a smile on my face thinking about those old cold drafty probably WWII Q Huts, and so thankful we never had quarters that bad again!


----------



## AmericanStand

mreynolds said:


> Do you think I should tell him this is what I do for a living?


 No you should tell everyone so they can judge if you have a bias. 
Do you do both ICF and conventional?
Do you bid work blind then do it ICF ?


----------



## Bearfootfarm

AmericanStand said:


> No *you should tell everyone* so they can judge if you have a bias.
> Do you do both ICF and conventional?
> Do you bid work blind then do it ICF ?


Everyone who pays attention already knew.



AmericanStand said:


> Do you do both ICF and conventional?


Not all pours need to be insulated.
Contractors do what is needed to get the end results the customer wants.



AmericanStand said:


> Do you bid work blind then do it ICF ?


You really don't know much about this, do you?


----------



## mreynolds

QUOTE="AmericanStand, post: 8089280, member: 366995"]No you should tell everyone so they can judge if you have a bias.
Do you do both ICF and conventional?
Do you bid work blind then do it ICF ?[/QUOTE]

ICF, conventional, tilt up any many more. 

There is a best practice for every situation. To just say "that's no good" without qualifying your statement shows your bias not mine. 

I never bid anything blind. Not sure what you mean there.


----------

