# Lye/Fats temperature ranges



## Lavender Blue (May 10, 2002)

Hi... been a long while since I've posted anything on HST but I know this is the best place to get answers! 

So, I was making soap today (done it lots of times) and made a mistake. The recipe calls for 702g of coconut oil and 200g of olive oil plus 2 other oils. I put 702g of olive oil in instead. :/ (and since I was being "efficient" I did not measure these things out separately but one by one into the same pot) So, I ran the amounts through soapcalc and bumped the coconut oil up to 800 to firm it up and bring the "soap bar quality" ranges within acceptable amounts. I've mixed my lye and water and am now waiting for the temp to come down.

My question is this: What is a good temp range at which to mix the lye/water and fats? I did some searching on here before I posted and it looks like I can do about 120-125? Or even 110-120? By the time anyone can answer this I will probably have already done the mixing and hope for the best but I thought I'd ask on here anyway. 

(Note to self: just go ahead and measure the fats out separately into separate containers. Quit worrying about having to clean up more containers.)
Thanks
Lavender Blue


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## Nsoitgoes (Jan 31, 2016)

I make milk soaps almost exclusively, so of necessity I have to soap at a low temperature. Usually around 90F, so my solid oils remain liquid. On the rare occasion I use water instead, I still keep the temps low because that means a smoother batter, easier pour and more time to play with swirls, etc.


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## Lavender Blue (May 10, 2002)

Yesterday: In the molds - Two 3 lb HDPE filled plus one tall chip can.


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## Lavender Blue (May 10, 2002)

Thanks for the input. Though I have made quite a bit of soap, I am pretty much a by the recipe person and don't like venturing off. Now, I'd like to know why there so much oil seepage from the molds. Should I make a separate post? Or is this related to temps and messing up in the first place?

Edited to add: I will be unmolding the soap this evening. So far it appears to have a uniform texture and no pockets of separation. Used lavender EO to scent.


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## Nsoitgoes (Jan 31, 2016)

Hmmm. At what stage did you pour? I usually pour at thin trace. I only use solid molds. Those look like they come apart. Are you sure the were sealed tight? It looks like you lined with Saran Wrap? Do you use a single piece or line with 2 pieces? If one, any chance it got torn? My suspicion is that it seeped between the joints of your mold. It may well be a lot less than it looks. I'm interested to know how it unmolds...


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## Lavender Blue (May 10, 2002)

Thickish trace. Not pudding thick though. The molds have worked well up up to now. I don't think it is them. The last time I made soap it was worse and I had messed up on the oils that time too but forged on. I'm wondering if it isn't too superfatted? Perhaps I should have used the stick to blend the EO in? 

The soap unmolded pretty well. The stuff you see that looked like plastic wrap is wax paper. The texture is a little soft/moldable but holds it's shape. There are no pockets or weepiness in the soap itself. Ended up unmolding the chip can yesterday and the boxes just a few minutes ago. The soaps cut from the chip mold are already firmed up more. Coloring inside the bars is a litter darker than the outsides.


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## Nsoitgoes (Jan 31, 2016)

What was your superfat? I generally do 8% or so with no problem.

I always add my lye/milk solution to my oils and stickblend until just properly emulsified. Then I add my EO/FO and stickblend briefly til light trace. If it is a fragrance I know will accelerate then I keep temperatures very low and may not fully emulsify initially, but that can be tricky. I have also heard of adding fragrances that accelerate to your oil base before adding the lye solution. I have never done this personally, though I have a rose fragrance that I may do a test batch with using this technique.


Edited to add: did you do a water discount?


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## Lavender Blue (May 10, 2002)

Hi, Not ignoring... just can't get at the info for a few days. It isn't where I am.  I'll get back to you when I have the recipe and soap calc printout in hand. I've never played with deliberately trying to cause the oil base to accelerate. And, I thought emulsifying the oils was a bad thing that one was in danger of doing when using a stick blender. Wouldn't one want the thickening to happen by the interaction of the lye and fats and not by "emulsifying" them as one would a salad dressing or mayonnaise? I'm usually careful to not overdo it with the blender.


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## Nsoitgoes (Jan 31, 2016)

I agree - it is generally not a Good Thing to have your batter accelerate with CP. It may have advantages with HP, but I haven't made that in years so I don't know the current thinking. My reading about putting an FO that is known to accelerate into your oil base before the lye solution suggests that as it is very much diluted by that it will not accelerate as fast. I want to repeat that I have not tried it. When I do, I will report on the effect.

You want an initial smooth and thorough mixing so that the oil and lye molecules are brought into proximity evenly. In theory it is an emulsion when the oil and the liquid no longer separate when you suspend mixing for a short while and the batter looks even. Once they are mixed, whether by a stick blender or a wooden spoon, the chemical process proceeds.


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## Lavender Blue (May 10, 2002)

Ok. Back home and here’s the info...
Thank you for your input!


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## Nsoitgoes (Jan 31, 2016)

Hmm. Nothing in that recipe shouts out to me to cause leakage. I would not go any lower with the superfat. My 'normal' s/f is 8%.

I use a large plastic bowl for mixing and a Pyrex jug to measure out the individual oils before adding them to the mixing bowl, so only two main items to wash.


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## Lavender Blue (May 10, 2002)

I will keep trying. The leakage problem has occurred the last two times. Maybe I need to put more liner in. *shrugs*

What I would like is a very basic recipe for a laundry bar soap. A superfatted soap is great for bathing but I like to wash my dishes with the homemade soap and would prefer something with not so much moisturizing effect.


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## Nsoitgoes (Jan 31, 2016)

I use 100% coconut oil, with 0% superfat for laundry soap. Works great.

You might try using freezer paper, or even better for an experiment, a white trash can liner to line your mold next time you soap, and see how that works. Do you cover your soaps to help them gel? I make milk soap, so want them to stay cold and not gel. That darker portion in the middle of your soap looks rather like a partial gel to me.


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