# What do I need for a tractor?



## Number21 (May 28, 2017)

I have 6 acres of totally undeveloped land that I am trying to clear and use. I factored in the cost of a tractor when I bought it, but I'd really like to spend $10-15k or less. The land is mostly flat, but I need to put in a long driveway, and clear a lot of stumps. I also need something that will clear a lot of overgrown vegetation. I've been doing it with a handheld brush cutter, but that needs to stop. It's all covered in old trees now but I think I'm going to have a lot of them harvested leaving a bunch of stumps. 

Basically, I need a tractor with a good front end loader and a PTO attachment. At first I thought I wanted a used bobcat, but I'm starting to wonder if that is a good idea. The ones in my price range are well used, and I don't want to have to spend all of my time (and money) fixing them. Bobcats are nice with all the attachments available, but I think they are a little harder to work on.

I'm wondering what you would suggest to help clear my land? I really know nothing about tractors. What should I be looking for? New is obviously out of the question, what would be best for a smaller used machine?


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## IndyDave (Jul 17, 2017)

The first problem is that the tractor you need now and the tractor you will need to maintain it after you are finished are two entirely different machines. My suggestion is that within your budget you can buy a used backhoe now, have your timber cut, use the backhoe to extract stumps and excavate your building site and driveway, and as soon as you are done with that, sell it and buy a good utility tractor with live power takeoff in the 35-50 horsepower range with a loader and a bush hog at minimum. You can buy any number of good older tractors with loaders within your budget and have plenty left over for additional implements. It would also be helpful to know what your intermediate and long term goals are. After all, what you are going to be doing will have a significant impact on the tractor and implements you may need.


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## Number21 (May 28, 2017)

IndyDave said:


> The first problem is that the tractor you need now and the tractor you will need to maintain it after you are finished are two entirely different machines.


That's one of my issues, I don't really want to buy one thing and then sell it to get another. I'm not really in a hurry to develop the land, and I've had a lot of bad luck buying used engine powered things - I'm always afraid they are going to blow up and be stuck with it. I'd really like to buy something and plan on keeping it forever. I can do some maintenance and repairs, but I'm not a mechanic.



IndyDave said:


> You can buy any number of good older tractors with loaders within your budget and have plenty left over for additional implements.


Do you have any suggestions? I honestly don't even know what to look for. I see a lot of loaders/backhoes for $5-10 grand like you would normally find on road construction, but I have no idea what is good to buy and what is a money pit. Am I right that a used skid steer is probably a money pit?

I really don't need a lot in a tractor - I could do it by hand if I had the energy, but I'm a little bit disabled. I need hydraulics! Right now I'm clearing an area for a driveway and it's mostly clear with a handheld brushcutter, I just need some gravel and something to spread it. The biggest job I have is probably digging stumps. Mainly I just need a brush hog and something that can level the dirt. I'm ok with taking everything nice and slow. Having a FEL to help me lift heavy things would be fantastic.


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## ForestToFarm (Feb 28, 2016)

I agree that you have varying needs that a single tractor will not likely provide. Think beyond the clearing and stumps. What will you be doing with this tractor. If part of that work involves minimal time doing a particular task, such as stump removal, then renting could be a much better option. Why spend big money on a piece of equipment that you will only use very little in the long run. Removing stumps with the front end loader of a tractor is not going to be very productive in my opinion. Even a backhoe of a tractor is limited when it comes to stumps. Look at the capacity of those things. Unless you have a huge tractor it just is not going to have the power needed to get the job done if you have any substantial stumps to remove. They are mostly good for dirt and gravel.

My son and I are building a small farm out of an established forest. I have been down and continue to travel the road you are about to take. The best option for getting stumps out of the ground with the least effort and least expense in my opinion would be to rent a mini excavator. We rented one from a local small engine shop that did what we needed for the most part. It was an E32 bobcat. For one week it cost us $850 and that included pick up and delivery. One week equates to 40 hours and/or 7 days. 40 hours on that machine is a lot of time. Just be sure to turn it off when not using it because the hour meter keeps on ticking when the engine is running. 

For our largest stumps an even larger excavator is needed and we have yet to accomplish that task. its currently our mission and the solution is yet to present itself. 

Here is a video we did showing my son moving logs with the mini excavator. We never yet did a video on the removal of stumps but we plan to when time permits. Good luck!!
Terry


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## Number21 (May 28, 2017)

The stumps aren't really my biggest concern right now - that will be in the future if/when I decide to have the timber harvested. For now I plan on leaving almost all of the really large trees. Anything smaller I can likely burn out or just leave and go around.

I'm really opposed to renting - it might become a necessity, but I always feel like that is just money thrown away. I tend to work slow - not on somebody else's schedule.  Just knowing the clock is ticking always bothers me.


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## ForestToFarm (Feb 28, 2016)

If you buy a used tractor look at all the limitations of them. They vary greatly. Older tractors like the 8N are not always good options for front end loaders. The PTO drive on some models are fixed while others are variable. If you get a tractor with a fixed PTO output it greatly limits what implements that can be used with that tractor. 

Older tractors that have been suggested to us are Ford 800 series and up. The older models look awesome but have limitations. Massey Ferguson has some models that are said to be desirable. There are others but I can't remember exact models at the moment. 

Pictures would help and what your intentions are.


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## Number21 (May 28, 2017)

I'll try to get some pics in the next day or two. Mostly it's just flat NC brush and vines, and my driveway has a few bumps I need to level out. I forgot to mention I also need to dig some ditches, the property has a creek running through the middle and all the roads in the area dump into it. I need to come up with a better "network" of ditches. Some day I would like to dig a pond - maybe around an acre or so. Slowly but surely is my thing. At this time I'm only thinking about building a storage building there, but probably a house some day. 

It's really not a lot of work however I have a muscle disorder, and my arms/legs don't work like they used to. Most of what I need is an offroad "forklift" to lift/move heavy stuff for me. It drives me crazy that I can't do most of this by hand. 

I would love a nice old running 50's/60's tractor, but I understand they don't do hydraulics very well. The more simple it is to work on and fix the better. I really don't need to ask a lot of it, but it needs to work. Basically I need one step above a riding lawnmower, but like I said, I have no idea what is what. I'm mostly a city boy, been using push mowers all my life.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

I think starting with some thing like a small 350 case dozer is what is needed for stump removal and drive way building. Problem I see with most drive ways is no one worked the top soil off and made a good base like a little dozer can do.
Once that work is finished sell the dozer they seem to sell quick around here.
Then start searching for a tractor built in the late 1960's mid 70 range. By the mid 70's about all had 3 pt hitch. Allis 175, 180 thru the 190 and some late D 17's even.

Massey Ferguson from the 35 up

Oliver 1865 and up

All the Case tractors from the 1960 and up had a 3 point hitch called the eagle hitch

Same with the later IH Farmall tractors. 

Most all are easy to work on, parts are still made for them and not any digital crap to go bad on them.

 Al


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## Steve_S (Feb 25, 2015)

Something no one has mentioned but must be considered... Brand New machines, just like cars & trucks, are computerized... not a terrible thing BUT limits repairs and parts, some even have "home repair prevention" that requires all servicing be done in an Authorized Shop.

IF / When buying used equipment, first consider age & parts / consumables supply. You can buy used Heavy Equipment cheap and think you got a deal, till you go looking for parts. That's when the grumbling begins... 

As for renting equipment, I agree with you, hate renting something in the sense that it's to0ssing bucks out the door... But there is the reality check.... better to rent a $30,000+ machine for a week (40 hrs runtime) for a grand and get the work done right the 1st time... Not doing so, you'd likely find out later you spent more Time & Money getting task done, followed by the inevitable grumbling. I've rented mini-excavator's & mini backhoe's and did much in a short time, just make sure whoever rents you the equipment shows you how to run it and runs it before they leave it for you.

Not sure what your soil composition is but for a driveway that will handle weights (trucks etc) and holds up, you need a solid base. In my case, I hired in a contractor to excavate my build pads & driveway, with one CAT-390 Excavator, they stripped out all the organics & stumps, backfilled with 20 loads of pit-run & topped with packing gravel, levelled out and compacted... took them 1 day ! My combined build pads are about 2000 square feet, driveway @ 20' wide x 200' length. 

My suggestion, if your not familiar with larger equipment, hydraulics and all the related things, get to know people who are familiar & know what to look for, possibly consider buying from a dealer that offers a warranty (check dealer reputation !!! with locals etc). Costs for repairing busted hydraulics, dried out seals etc can add up fast. 
TIP: One source of good deals ! Farmer's who are retiring out and who's farms are shutting down, many often have good quality equipment that they have taken care of... usually find them by word of mouth.


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## IndyDave (Jul 17, 2017)

OK, you are drawing a clearer picture. If your purpose for the tractor is removing brush and trees that are largely still in the same general class with brush, I am going to recommend a utility tractor that is as simple to operate and maintain as possible. I really like my Oliver but wouldn't recommend it to you as parts can be pretty difficult to come by, even knowing a couple of people who make a professional specialty out of it. 

I would draw the line at having a 3 point hitch, live power takeoff, and power steering if you are going to have a loader. This would take in the Ford 861* (I have never heard of an 860 with power steering, but that isn't to say there is no such thing, optional on the 861), 3000, 4000, 5000 (a little big, but not excessively so), or go green with a JD 2010/2020, International 350, 444,454, 460, 464, or any utility tractor with a 5 at the left end of the model number should do.

To do your clearing of brush and small trees, with or without the loader, you need to get an old rim. A semi rim or a smaller combine rim without a tire would be ideal. You run a chain over the top of the rim toward your scrub tree or shrub that needs pulled. You take the end with the hook, wrap it around once going over the top of the long end of the chain, around again going under, around again hooking back into the long end. Then you take the long end which goes over the top of the rim and hook it to the tractor such that it redirects the pulling force upward. Then. you. pull. trees. and. bushes. one. at. a. time. This can be a slow and tedious process, but it sounds like this is the type of solution that you are fishing for in this thread.

You will obviously need a bush hog. A 3 point scoop should work for your revised ditch plan. I am going to surmise that you may or may not need a plow but will definitely need at least a disk to work the surface and then a broadcast seeder (3 point is much, much nicer than handheld for any significant volume of work) in order to replace the vegetation you remove with something useful.

*On the older Fords, the model number will be stamped into the casting right above the back end of the starter. An 860 or 861 (same thing slightly updated, mostly sheet metal not mechanicals different) have live power takeoff. 840/841/850/851 do NOT have live power takeoff.


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

I'd suggest renting some equipment to get your ground in shape, then purchase a tractor that fits your needs.
6 Acres isn't much, won't take much time with the proper rental equipment to get it cleaned up.

On that size acreage a simple 25-35 HP small 4wd utility tractor with loader and a 5' bush hog will do most everything you need done. I'd get something relatively new; Deere, New Holland or Kubota.


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

I had 20 acres of Brush and Timber. Around here work with what you have. Never thought of my place big enough to justify buying a Tractor. Pickup yes, Tractor no.

Took cleared out Fence Lines put up Field Fence with Strand of Barbwire along the top. Put in Cross Fencing. Put 30 Head of Goats and couple Butcher Steers on it. Cut Firewood off it and burnt it off in the Spring.

Had regular Garden but found Raised Beds were the Best way to go. Had Fruit Trees. Chickens, Ducks, Geese, Rabbits and couple Feeder Pigs.



big rockpile


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## Hitch (Oct 19, 2016)

We're kinda in the same boat. Although we're leaning towards buying new for a couple of reasons, one of which is not having mechanical problems early on. Secondly, tractors have a pretty good resale value, especially for the more commercial models. Plus with some of the great financing deals I've seen it wouldn't require a huge outlay of cash.


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

You have 6 acres.....don't want to spent a lot of money, or by a money pit used machine, or rent the necessary equipment......Yet doing it by hand being slightly disabled.....?

Make a plan of what you want done.....
Call a digger guy.....get an estimate....and pay the man.
They will bring over the equipment needed to do the job and complete it....most likely in a day.

My excavation work was $800 buck a day, per man and machine....but if the job required different machines....cost a bit extra.

When you buy a property, and it needs work....that should have been factored in to start with.
But no worries, most folks don't....all the see is the dream.


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## chuckhole (Mar 2, 2006)

Based on what you have said, a 30 HP 4WD tractor is your best fit. I have all of the equipment you are considering. A big backhoe, a 30 HP tractor, a utility vehicle and riding mower. I love the backhoe but it comes with big bills. Just an oil change costs me $60 if I do it myself. It burns a gallon of diesel an hour and gets a tube of grease every 10 hours. Busted hydraulic lines are $80+ each and when digging up trees and stumps, something will always fall on or snag a line. It happens usually on Saturday afternoon when everything is closed for the weekend. And I won't mention the $15K transmission replacement.

Since changing out implements is going to be a regular thing with one tractor, get the quick attach stuff for the front and the PTO. Use the Pat's Quickchange Hitch for the PTO. It makes the changes so much easier. I wish I had that for the front bucket as well but since I don't, I leave the forklift attachment on most of the time.

What has really helped is my neighbors. We work our machines together and get a lot more done that way and one of them has become my mentor in "all things country". When he needs something from the city, he only has to call and tell me and he will have it that weekend. We work together that way.


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

Hunter63 said it pretty well. 

You're only dealing with 6 acres. That's not a lot of ground. Someone with very heavy equipment could come in and get what you need done in a very short time. Let them. Yes, it will cost you something. Might cost you a couple thousand $ even. If you buy a dozer or other large piece of equipment and bust it up because you get in over your head, you stand to lose even more. Or if you make a bad deal and can't sell something for what you think you can when you buy it and pay too much. 

I understand that people love to do things themselves. I get that. I like to feel like I've done something big and important all by myself. But there are times when it's really a better idea to let a professional at least do the bulk of it. That way you can move on to the kinds of work and equipment you'd ultimately like to be doing and using instead of wasting time, energy and money on stuff that's not going to give you a good return on your investment (which would include your time, once that's spent, you don't get it back).


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## JH-Q (Jan 6, 2014)

I went the "money pit" road in a similar situation. I have a house and a little over an acre of land, which i'll have to tidy up for sale and move to the next place (which needs even more clearing and landscaping) I'm doing this for a hobby, and not for living so i thought i could have an older and slower machine to help me out and run it every now and then to improve my land.

So i bought a MF backhoe from early 60's. I ended up on this because of versatility. I can easily take off the backhoe attachment and use it like a normal tractor for field work or such. Or attach something useful to run out of the PTO. I run a machine shop for living so i thought i can make whatever spare parts i can't find. 

The backhoe cost me €4200 (~$4800) plus about the same for all the necessary spare parts, fluids, filters, hydraulic hoses, new bucket, lip plates and jaws for the old buckets etc etc... So that's around $10k for a running machine. It's not even close to a new machine, but it runs beautifully and there isn't major problems to fix anymore. It's clumsier, slower and weaker than modern machines, but i can pull stumps and rocks out of ground with it. Fresh stumps are a no-go, but if i let them rot for a couple of years, they come out nicely.

Fixing up the machine took me around 3-4 months working on it in the evenings after work, and indeed the machine shop came real handy. There was a lot of parts which i had to make myself out of solid barstock. Think about replacing sloppy bushings and pins on backhoe arm or fitting a standard hydraulic pump to replace the old and obsolete one, which has a different input shaft and mounting pattern. 

If you want to fix up an older machine, it's certainly doable, but keep in mind a few things;
-Original spare parts aren't most likely avaitable. If they are, they'll be expensive. So you've got options of making your own or fitting easily avaitable stock parts to replace the obsolete parts.
-You'll need a workshop. In addition of good handtools, you can't repair one of these machines without at least a decent sized lathe (12x30" or bigger), a bridgeport style mill (or heavier) and a good stick welder. And skills to use all of these. It's not rocket science, but learning takes time! You can always take the parts to a machine shop, but it's likely to ruin your budget and if you go that route it's better to buy a machine which doesn't need such repairs.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Hitch said:


> We're kinda in the same boat. Although we're leaning towards buying new for a couple of reasons, one of which is not having mechanical problems early on. Secondly, tractors have a pretty good resale value, especially for the more commercial models. Plus with some of the great financing deals I've seen it wouldn't require a huge outlay of cash.


If you're buying new, you're getting a tractor with the new EPA "stuff." That means dealer repair for any of the engine related issues. If you do buy new, try to get a good discount on a 55 gal bbl of KY. You may need it. I wouldn't look at a tractor with electronics not to mention a DPF and needing DEF in a separate tank.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Duplicate


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## Number21 (May 28, 2017)

I appreciate the advise but some of you still aren't getting it. I will not rent anything. Anything smaller than a tractor, after a few days rental I could just buy a used one. With a tractor the clock is always ticking, paying basically by the hour. Without a sufficient vehicle to pull a big tractor I'd have to pay extra fees just for delivery and pickup. And I'm not going to work on their schedule. This is not something I want to do in a hurry - or just a week.

I also will not hire anybody, besides maybe some basic day laborers here and there. I am not going to come up with a complete plan for the entire site and have somebody come in and do it in a day, I don't want it done that way. I'm planning as I go and I'm not sure what I'm going to do with some parts until others are cleared. I absolutely do not want a big dozer to come in and just clear out an empty field. 

I must reiterate I only need something small - something around the size JH-Q posted would probably be ideal. I know I can accomplish what I want with a small skid steer, however, I'm worried about how hard they are to fix and the fact that most in my price range have high hours. I had a friend that was very familiar with equipment I was going to bring with me to help inspect anything I wanted to buy, but unfortunately he has passed on since I purchased the land. I have considered some of the nice financing deals offered on new equipment, but as mentioned I think the EPA has ruined that idea forever. As such I think well maintained older equipment is going to hold it's value pretty well also.

Most of what I want to do could be done by hand if my hands would cooperate, one of the reasons I chose this land is the flat topography. The driveway I am making is going to be somewhat like a logging road - only as wide as a vehicle and somewhat bumpy and dirty. There is a right of way on the side of the land where a road was originally planned that never happened, it was cleared and graded about 30 years ago. This will make a nice driveway in the future, but I'm currently in the process of getting the city to vacate the right of way and take that land back. I have to wait for the red tape before I can do anything. In the mean time I need an alternate and somewhat temporary access point.

Here are some pics of what I am dealing with:
This is the raw land/brush that needs clearing, most of the trees will stay.

















This is some of the clearing that has been done by hand, it was as thick as the other pics when I started:









This is part of the temporary driveway, it really only needs to be good enough to get my Jeep through. Still need to remove a few >4" diameter trees.








The biggest issue here is the drop off from the main road needs to be sculpted a little bit, it's about a 3' cliff right now.

There are a few small boulders like this that need to be moved:









And some big monsters like this will present the biggest issue:








Many of the big old trees like this will eventually be harvested, but the stumps can mostly be left and either burned out or just go around them. There will be a few smaller trees that are in the way here and there that need to have stumps removed, but mostly things will be planned around the trees.


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

Good luck......


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## Number21 (May 28, 2017)

hunter63 said:


> Good luck......


Somehow I get the feeling this is not genuine...and you haven't really bothered to read what I wrote...

If you have nothing useful to add, it's much easier to just hit the back button...


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

Number21 said:


> Somehow I get the feeling this is not genuine...and you haven't really bothered to read what I wrote...
> 
> If you have nothing useful to add, it's much easier to just hit the back button...


You have been given a lot of information all of which you seem to refuse to even listen to.....
Yes I have most of it and I am done with this.......And truly wish you a big "GOOD LUCK"
That is a sincere statement....
I will stop there as my folks always told me "If you don't have anything good to say....Don't.


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## Number21 (May 28, 2017)

hunter63 said:


> You have been given a lot of information all of which you seem to refuse to even listen to.....
> Yes I have most of it and I am done with this.......And truly wish you a big "GOOD LUCK"
> That is a sincere statement....
> I will stop there as my folks always told me "If you don't have anything good to say....Don't.


Yes, a few people here have given me great information and I am grateful for that. You are not one of them. I was very clear that there are a lot of reasons why I am not going to hire somebody to do it all in a day, you refuse to listen to what I say. The money would be much, much better used being put towards a tractor I can own forever. Even if it was FREE I do not want somebody to come in with a giant dozer and do everything in a day. I'm not looking for an open field, and none of my projects require large earthmoving equipment.


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

Number21 said:


> Yes, a few people here have given me great information and I am grateful for that. You are not one of them. I was very clear that there are a lot of reasons why I am not going to hire somebody to do it all in a day, you refuse to listen to what I say. The money would be much, much better used being put towards a tractor I can own forever. Even if it was FREE I do not want somebody to come in with a giant dozer and do everything in a day. I'm not looking for an open field.


Well, I sorry you feel that way.... as all my comments were from past experience and expensive mistakes.
And dealing with people that don't care to listen......LOL.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Number21 said:


> Yes, a few people here have given me great information and I am grateful for that. You are not one of them. I was very clear that there are a lot of reasons why I am not going to hire somebody to do it all in a day, you refuse to listen to what I say. The money would be much, much better used being put towards a tractor I can own forever. Even if it was FREE I do not want somebody to come in with a giant dozer and do everything in a day. I'm not looking for an open field, and none of my projects require large earthmoving equipment.


I missed this thread...too late to chime in? 

When I see your property, I see Bobby (my machine - 331 Bobcat) chewing up land like that, easy peasy. 
A mini excavator has a blade which can grade, in addition to clearing brush and trees, and digging to your heart's content. 
I have a thread in this forum where I cleared a few acres of my 5 acre plot. The difference being I am on mostly rock. Your property appears to be dirt laden, which makes life so much easier and easy on machine. 
I'd get a cab version just because I don't like to eat dust all day, and I like AC/Heat. One downside with my machine, in particular, is it heats up on hot days. But then again, I don't like working when it's baking outside anyways. 

Foresttofarm had a newer version of mine (in their vid), but they just have a canopy. 
One thing I love about mine, is it has a 'thumb'...if you go mini route, get one with a thumb. Like having a hand that can lift a couple of tons. No thumb, your getting out of machine every few minutes to strap or chain something. A thumb can rip out roots, pick up logs, lift up walls, dig foundations, move rocks...list is endless. 

Go to http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/forums/compact-excavators.61/ to see what machines are worthy or not. Basically, anything under 2000hrs is a winner...key is to buy a machine with dealer/parts store nearby. You will have to do maintenance and repair...really helps if you know heavy metal and hydraulics (or not afraid to learn how they work). I got mine (2003 model) for about the top end of your price range...had it for 5yrs. Best purchase I ever made. I had no clue really what I was buying, even though I had farm experience. Check all bearings and bushings for slop...that will tell you a lot about how well machine is maintained. 
I prefer my era of machine, as they didn't get too crazy with electronics...newer ones are like car electrical. In the thousand plus hours I've put on my machine, I've spent about 4-5k in parts and maintenance (wearable items). 

As you've said, renting or hiring is not for you...I agree. I've rented and hired, and always, when the excavator is leaving on trailer, I'm like darn, should have got them to do this or that. Having a machine ready to use at all times, is incredibly handy. 
I regrade my driveway a few times a year...takes an hour...


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## chuckhole (Mar 2, 2006)

Melli makes a lot of good points and I would not want to argue because I would most likely not come out well. Melli has way too many good posts and respect for me to say otherwise.......but in this case, I would make the excavator a second choice and not the first. And there is only one reason - the versatility of the 3-point hitch and front end loader that even a smaller 25-35 HP tractor has. And you can add a backhoe attachment in the future if you wish. I would not in most cases because they are really just a bigger trencher but...........

Tracked vs, wheeled. I would say tracked is preferred so that is not a strike against the excavator. But there is that PTO and 3-point again. A 3-point shredder (Brush Hog is like saying Coke for a soda) would make quick work of all that underbrush and a long drill bit and some kerosene can make quick work of your stumps.

Anyway, when it comes to a tractor, consider this: 4WD is almost a necessity when using a front loader. And shuttle shift will not rob some of your hydraulic power for the transmission and it is also cheaper. All in all, a smaller 30HP 4WD shuttle shift will get just as much work done as a 45HP 2WD with hydrostatic transmission. Tractors and mini excavators hold their value well and for good reason. When I bought my first tractor ('city boy' that I am), I had no experience at all. So I checked the rental fleets to see what they used. I figured if they considered them high enough quality to rent and maintain and still make money on, then it was what I wanted buy.

And I will add just one more thing about the trees and stumps. Cut the trees down in the summer when all of the sap/moisture is up in the tree. If you cut during the winter, the roots will last forever....You don't need heavy equipment to make it a little easier for yourself.


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## jimdad07 (Jan 23, 2017)

It all depends on how fast you want to do it. I've used tractors of many sizes for what you want to do and I've used backhoes etc for the same job.
You can buy a very good used tractor with implements for what you need. If you are willing to take your time a 50hp machine will do just about anything you want if all you're doing is moving some dirt, pulling small stumps and brush hogging. I have old Allis Chalmers tractors that work great, I highly recommend a 180 for what you are doing and one in good condition goes for 5 to 7k around here. 
An International 674 is good for the same type of work and so on. Older Fords are great because they are very simple to work on and parts are found easily...it's all in what allowances and compromises you are willing to make.
I also recommend a three point three bottom plow setup if you are excavating a driveway, you can loosen the ground up and just scoop it out without beating your loader up.


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## cpnkrunch (Dec 6, 2014)

I'm gonna put in my 2 cents worth, IMHO. I suggest a Ford Workmaster 641,(661 would be better but harder to find) about 32 HP, started production in 1958. Made in America not Great Britain as some of the later models, Parts still available as close as the nearest Case/IH/New Holland dealer. Easy to work on, basic mechanics, not rocket science. Economic and reliable. From your pics, a 5 foot rotary cutter, ie brush hog to fit in the tight spaces, a blade to grade the road, a rear scoop might be nice and a three point rear boom for lifting ( up to 500#). These had live hydraulics, (engine driven pump) as opposed to the 8N's PTO driven pump. I feed 800 pound round bales on a stinger with this setup. I could go heavier bales but would have to add front end weights or a loader. Front end loaders can still be had and you might find one that is so configured. Around here the whole outfit in good condition would probably not break $5K. To little for the big boys to farm with and not a fancy zero-turn.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

chuckhole said:


> Melli makes a lot of good points and I would not want to argue because I would most likely not come out well. Melli has way too many good posts and respect for me to say otherwise.......but in this case, I would make the excavator a second choice and not the first. And there is only one reason - the versatility of the 3-point hitch and front end loader that even a smaller 25-35 HP tractor has. And you can add a backhoe attachment in the future if you wish. I would not in most cases because they are really just a bigger trencher but...........
> 
> Tracked vs, wheeled. I would say tracked is preferred so that is not a strike against the excavator. But there is that PTO and 3-point again. A 3-point shredder (Brush Hog is like saying Coke for a soda) would make quick work of all that underbrush and a long drill bit and some kerosene can make quick work of your stumps.
> 
> ...


Actually, a FEL/backhoe was my first choice, but a good used one was 30k. 
For moving dirt, a FEL wins hands down. A mini-ex is better for trenching, and pulling out stumps...imho
A backhoe can do everything an excavator can with the additional benefit of the loader. And getting a 4x4 backhoe is a must as Chuckhole noted...my neighbor has one, and he has issues in mud and hills on his 2 wheel drive version. Since the OPs land is flat, perhaps a backhoe is the better choice, but I really looked for a clean one, and 30k was starting prices. 

If one was in my mountain terrain, a mini-ex can just go places a backhoe can't. 
And Chuck, your argument is very persuasive!


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## chsdiyer (Feb 18, 2017)

welcome to my life. It's not such a simple question you pose. As others have suggested, there are better tools for clearing the land than a tractor and better tractor for the construction tasks then the maintenance tasks. I'm not sure you'll be able to get one that satisfies you completely. You can go to www.tractorbynet.com and get a wealth of tractor knowledge. I started a thread over there posing roughly the same question and you can see the feedback I got...http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/buying-pricing-comparisons/368702-can-tractor-clear.html. Long story short, if you doing a lot of land clearing, trying to use your own tractor with a front end loader is doable, but it will put a lot of wear on your tractor and take a long time (depending on your size tractor). The wear aspect will be enough to cover the cost of a rental for a week which as others have mentioned is not that much money. Of course like me, the thought of renting something only translates to money that could have been put toward owning something.

We initially started trying to clear our land with chain saw. That left too many small stumps, so we slowed down and used a pick ax to uproot the whole tree. That was much cleaner but took way too long. In the end, I found someone with a bull dozer to come through and cut in a drive way and clear an acre for me for $1500. That was with leaving the trees behind in burn piles. It probably would have been better on the land to have an excavator do the clearing cause now i have a lot of small roots scattered around that I still need to pick out. But he did in a weekend what it would have taken me probably a year of all my free time. Well worth the money! Right tools for the job. There's a you tube video of a guy with a brand new Kubota tractor clearing brush and every comment was basically criticizing him for "tearing up" his tractor.

So now I have an acre cleared, with small roots all over and it didn't take long for the weeds to start growing. Ground is too unlevel for a lawnmower and it was a long process doing it with a string trimmer. So I had the nice dozer man come back and brush hog it with his tractor. 

As far as tractors. With 6 acres it seems a good recommendation would be the Kubota L2501. I had been looking at that for a while for my 10 acres, but recently came across the LS XG3025. I can get a new one of those with rotary cutter and box blade for the price of the Kubota tractor and the LS arguably has better performance. The Kubota does have a better dealer network. Another common suggestion is not to buy the tractor, but the dealership. Meaning get the tractor that provides you with the dealer that gives the best service. 

Another good suggestion I think could be to go smaller with a Kubota BX25 (now 23S I believe) or a Massey Fergusson GC1710 (or 1720). And again the LS makes a similar size MT125 something I think that has better performance at a lower cost. You'll be shocked at how small those are in person but shocked again to see what they are actually capable of. You can get a lot of work done with one of those. They're about the same price as the ones I mentioned above but these have backhoes on them, which could help with your land clearing if the trees aren't too big. 

Alternatively I have a friend that showed me what 24 goats got done in land clearing for him. It was impressive. 

My advice, if you're not in a hurry and don't have tone of clearing to do, get a tractor and take your time. If you have a lot of clearing, pay someone to do it or rent the equipment. Count the money you'll spend on that as the money you'll lose when you buy the tractor to do the upfront tasks and then have to resell it when you decide once all the hard work is done, you'd prefer something else. Not a guarantee but a good possibly. When I renovated my old house, i hung all the drywall. Took forever, but I thought...man i've saved money....good job me. I was exhausted and running short on time, so I paid some guys to mud it for me. Again, $1500 and they did in a weekend what would have taken me months. Best money I spent on that renovation. The dozer was definitely well worth the cost. 

I'm now struggling between the smaller tractor loader backhoe (TLB) tractors or the larger. I think since my ground still needs a lot of work I'm going to get the LS XG3025. There's a thread here where hturner12 shows his land clearing with this tractor http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ng/370836-xg3025h-ant-other-owners-out-2.html


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