# Counter acting Black walnuts??



## mamadelbosque (Sep 29, 2008)

Hi there, we've had terrible luck with our gardens the past few years (and really, forever - none of our berry bushes or fruit trees have ever really done all that well...), and its finally been pointed out to us that its probably because we have literally dozens of black walnut trees in our yard and surrounding woods. Cutting them all down is simply not an option (we'd be cutting down just about every tree in the yard, excepting a couple of old maples and a cherry or two). 

So... is there anything we can mix into our soil to counteract the... stuff that black walnuts leach into the soil to keep other stuff from growing around them?? Or, are we just screwed?


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

This info may be of use:http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1148.html

Toxicity is generally confined within the drip line, but if you have lots of trees, you mayalso get some temporary effect from the leaves falling.

Hope this may be of help. Some things will grow under a walnut tree--see the list they provide.

geo


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## wyld thang (Nov 16, 2005)

hey! I was at my sister's yesterday and took some pix of her set up under her black walnut. I'll be back when I get the pix loaded up to photobucket. There is stuff you can grow and ways to grow it.

It would probably do your trees some good to thin them if you have "dozens". Critters sure love the walnuts tho!


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## wyld thang (Nov 16, 2005)

This is my sister's walnut tree, at least 100 years old(the house is 1885). When she bought it a few years ago it was just bare under the tree(no landscaping) with various flowers growing. She has put in the gravel(which is a layer of inch minus first, then some landscape paper, then crushed pumice on top. She wanted the gravel to make gathering the walnuts cleaner(works) and to make that sitting area which is wonderful in summer, and we enjoyed the little firepit there yesterday in the rain, making smores. She hangs a hammock under the tree in the summer.
SO I'm standing on the south of the tree, just under the drip line.

The bed under the kid with the red shirt is a new bed, and you can see wild violets in it. They were already growing under the tree and they thrive and spread like weeds. 

In the bed surrounding the tree is violets, crocosmia and bluebells, and a few tulips. She ripped out TONS of crocosmia and bluebells(gave them to me). SHe won't plant much under there for now, because her kids trample stuff when they climb the tree.










This bed goes along the fenceline, lots of daffodils and tulips(done with), a healthy dandelion, more violets, ivy and holly(full of cedar waxwings!!!), all healthy and happy. On the other side of the fence along the access road she throws trash from the walnut tree(twigs, shells) to keep the weeds down mulchily. It actually works pretty well for stuff like grass. There are bulbs on the other side of the fence and the walnut trash doesn't affect them. She ripped a lot of bluebells out of this bed, and has newly planted some native snowberry and star-flowered solomon's seal(she got from me).










This is a raised bed on the north side of the tree, just in under the drip line. This bed is one year old, you can see stuff like creeping jenny, a hosta, snowberry, lily of the valley, Fringecup(a native coralbell), native sword fern and iris.









This is the end of that bed that peeps out past the drip line and gets more sun. Native wild strawberry, mint, rosemary(it's not very happy, I think it doesn't get enough sun, and she whacked it back), columbine, forgetme not(which was another happy original plant under the tree), russian sage, tulips.

I think the happy plants are those from bulbs, corms, runners or rhizomes(thick fleshy shallow-rooted things). Also get a lot of rain through fall-winter-spring which may leach away a lot of the poison.









From the north looking south, arborvitae just under the dripline(which obviously they were originally planted just out side the dripline and got established. Just past the arborvitae are two cherry trees, lots of great cherries! 

So that is my sister, my son in the red, and my nephew up in the tree


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## quietstar (Dec 11, 2002)

Most folks know how Black Walnut trees deal with nearby plants. Not everyone knows that Hackberry trees have a similar effect. Good luck dealing with Mother Nature...Glen


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## Windy in Kansas (Jun 16, 2002)

This West Virginia University site may be of benefit.
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/fruits/blkwalnt.htm


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## ronbre (Apr 26, 2009)

here are some lists for you concerning black walnuts..hope it isn't too long
Black Walnut Toxicity to Plants, Humans and Horses
HYG-1148-93
Richard C. Funt
Jane Martin

The roots of Black Walnut (Juglans ***** L.) and Butternut (Juglans cinerea L.) produce a substance known as juglone (5-hydroxy-alphanapthaquinone). Persian (English or Carpathian) walnut trees are sometimes grafted onto black walnut rootstocks. Many plants such as tomato, potato, blackberry, blueberry, azalea, mountain laurel, rhododendron, red pine and apple may be injured or killed within one to two months of growth within the root zone of these trees. The toxic zone from a mature tree occurs on average in a 50 to 60 foot radius from the trunk, but can be up to 80 feet. The area affected extends outward each year as a tree enlarges. Young trees two to eight feet high can have a root diameter twice the height of the top of the tree, with susceptible plants dead within the root zone and dying at the margins. 

Not all plants are sensitive to juglone. Many trees, vines, shrubs, groundcovers, annuals and perennials will grow in close proximity to a walnut tree. Certain cultivars of "resistant" species are reported to do poorly. Black walnut has been recommended for pastures on hillsides in the Ohio Valley and Appalachian mountain regions. Trees hold the soil, prevent erosion and provide shade for cattle. The beneficial effect of black walnut on pastures in encouraging the growth of Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis L.) and other grasses appears to be valid as long as there is sufficient sunlight and water. 

Gardeners should carefully consider the planting site for black walnut, butternut, or persian walnut seedlings grafted to black walnut rootstock, if other garden or landscape plants are to be grown within the root zone of mature trees. Persian walnut seedlings or trees grafted onto Persian walnut rootstocks do not appear to have a toxic effect on other plants. 

Horses may be affected by black walnut chips or sawdust when they are used for bedding material. Close association with walnut trees while pollen is being shed (typically in May) also produce allergic symptoms in both horses and humans. The juglone toxin occurs in the leaves, bark and wood of walnut, but these contain lower concentrations than in the roots. Juglone is poorly soluble in water and does not move very far in the soil. 

Walnut leaves can be composted because the toxin breaks down when exposed to air, water and bacteria. The toxic effect can be degraded in two to four weeks. In soil, breakdown may take up to two months. Black walnut leaves may be composted separately, and the finished compost tested for toxicity by planting tomato seedlings in it. Sawdust mulch, fresh sawdust or chips from street tree prunings from black walnut are not suggested for plants sensitive to juglone, such as blueberry or other plants that are sensitive to juglone. However, composting of bark for a minimum of six months provides a safe mulch even for plants sensitive to juglone. 

Plants Observed Growing Under or Near Black Walnut*
Trees
Japanese Maples, Acer palmatum and its cultivars 
Southern Catalpa, Catalpa bignonioides 
Eastern Redbud, Cercis canadensis 
Canadian Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis 
Vines and Shrubs
Clematis 'Red Cardinal' 
February Daphne, Daphne mezereum 
Euonymus species 
Weeping Forsythia, Forsythia suspensa 
Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus 
Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica, and most other Lonicera species 
Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia 
** Pinxterbloom, Rhododendron periclymenoides 
**'Gibraltar' and 'Balzac', Rhododendron Exbury hybrids 
Multiflora Rose, Rosa multiflora 
Black Raspberry, Rubus occidentalis 
Arborvitaes, Thuja species 
** Koreanspice Viburnum, Viburnum carlesii, and most other Viburnum species 
Annuals
Pot-marigold, Calendula officinalis 'Nonstop' 
Begonia, fibrous cultivars 
Morning Glory, Ipomoea 'Heavenly Blue' 
Pansy Viola 
Zinnia species 
Vegetables
Squashes, Melons, Beans, Carrots, Corn 
Fruit Trees
Peach, Nectarine, Cherry, Plum 
Prunus species Pear-Pyrus species 
Herbaceous Perennials
Bugleweed, Ajuga reptans 
Hollyhock, Alcea rosea 
American Wood Anemone, Anemone quinquefolia 
Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Arisaema triphyllum 
European Wild Ginger, Asarum europaeum 
Astilbe species 
Bellflower, Campanula latifolia 
**Chrysanthemum species (some) 
Glory-of-the-Snow, Chionodoxa luciliae 
Spring Beauty, Claytonia virginica 
Crocus species 
Dutchman's Breeches, Dicentra cucullaria 
Leopard's-Bane, Doronicum species 
Crested Wood Fern, Dryopteris cristata 
Spanish Bluebell, Endymion hispanicus 
Winter Aconite, Eranthis hyemalis 
Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis 
Sweet Woodruff, Galium odoratum 
Herb Robert, Geranium robertianum 
Cranesbill, Geranium sanguineum 
Grasses (most) Gramineae family 
Jerusalem Artichoke, Helianthus tuberosus 
Common Daylily, Hemerocallis 'Pluie de Feu' 
Coral Bells, Heuchera x brizoides 
Orange Hawkweed, Hieracium aurantiacum 
Plantain-lily, Hosta fortunei 'Glauca' 
Hosta lancifolia 
Hosta marginata 
Hosta undulata 'Variegata' 
Common Hyacinth, Hyacinthus Orientalis 'City of Haarlem' 
Virginia Waterleaf, Hydrophyllum virginianum 
Siberian Iris, Iris sibirica 
Balm, Monarda didyma 
Wild Bergamot, M. fistulosa 
Grape Hyacinth, Muscari botryoides 
Sweet Cicely, Myrrhis odorata 'Yellow Cheerfulness,' 'Geranium,' 'Tete a Tete,' 'Sundial,' and 'February Gold' 
Sundrops, Oenothera fruticosa 
Senstitive Fern, Onoclea sensibilis 
Cinnamon Fern, Osmunda cinnamomea 
Peony, **Paeonia species (some) 
Summer Phlox, Phlox paniculata 
Mayapple, Podophyllum peltatum 
Jacob's-Ladder, Polemonium reptans 
Great Solomon's-Seal, Polygonatum commutatum 
Polyanthus Primrose, Primula x polyantha 
Lungwort, Pulmonaria species 
Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis 
Siberian Squill, Scilla sibirica 
Goldmoss Stonecrop, Sedum acre 
Showy Sedum, Sedum spectabile 
Lamb's-Ear, Stachys byzantina 
Spiderwort, Tradescantia virginiana 
Nodding Trillium, Trillium cernuum 
White Wake-Robin, Trillium grandiflorum 
Tulipa Darwin 'White Valcano' and 'Cum Laude,' Parrot 'Blue Parrot,' Greigii 'Toronto' 
Big Merrybells, Uvularia grandiflora 
Canada Violet, Viola canadensis 
Horned Violet, Viola cornuta 
Woolly Blue Violet, Viola sororia 
*These are based upon observations and not from clinical tests.
**Cultivars of some species may do poorly. 

Plants That Do Not Grow Within 50 Feet of Drip Line of Black Walnut
Herbaceous Perennials
Colorado Columbine, Aquilegia caerulea 
Wild Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis 
Asparagus, Asparagus offinalis 
*Chrysanthemum Chrysanthumum species (some) 
Baptisia australis 
Hydrangea species 
Lilies, Lilium species (particularly the Asian hybrids) 
Alfalfa, Medicago sativa 
Buttercup, Narcissus 'John Evelyn,' 'Unsurpassable' 'King Alfred' and 'Ice Follies' 
Peonies, *Paeonia species (some) 
Rhubarb, Rheum rhabarbarum 
Trees
Silver Maple, Acer saccharinum 
European Alder, Alnus glutinosa 
White Birches, Betula species 
Northern Hackberry, Celtis occidentalis 
Apples and Crabapples, Malus species 
Norway Spruce, Picea abies 
Mugo Pine, Pinus mugo 
Red Pine, Pinus resinosa 
Eastern White Pine, Pinus strobus 
Basswood, Tilia heterophylla 
Shrubs
Red Chokeberry, Aronia arbutifolia 
Hydrangea species 
Mountain Laurels, Kalmia species 
Privet, Ligustrum species 
Amur Honeysuckle, Lonicera maackii 
Brush Cinquefoil, Potentilla species 
Rhododendrons and Azaleas, **Rhododendron species (most) 
Blackberry, Rubus allegheniensis 
Lilacs, Syringa species and cultivars 
Yew, Taxus species 
Blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum 
*Viburnum plicatum tomentosum 'Mariesii' 
Annuals and Vegetables Transplants
Cabbage, Brassica oleracea capitata 
Peppers, Capsicum species (some) 
Tomatoes, Lycopersicon esculentum 
Flowering Tobacco, Nicotiana alata 
Petunia species and cultivars 
Eggplant, Solanum melongena 
Potato, Solanum tuberosum 
double-flowered cole vegetables


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## ronbre (Apr 26, 2009)

here are some lists for you concerning black walnuts..hope it isn't too long
Black Walnut Toxicity to Plants, Humans and Horses
HYG-1148-93
Richard C. Funt
Jane Martin

The roots of Black Walnut (Juglans ***** L.) and Butternut (Juglans cinerea L.) produce a substance known as juglone (5-hydroxy-alphanapthaquinone). Persian (English or Carpathian) walnut trees are sometimes grafted onto black walnut rootstocks. Many plants such as tomato, potato, blackberry, blueberry, azalea, mountain laurel, rhododendron, red pine and apple may be injured or killed within one to two months of growth within the root zone of these trees. The toxic zone from a mature tree occurs on average in a 50 to 60 foot radius from the trunk, but can be up to 80 feet. The area affected extends outward each year as a tree enlarges. Young trees two to eight feet high can have a root diameter twice the height of the top of the tree, with susceptible plants dead within the root zone and dying at the margins. 

Not all plants are sensitive to juglone. Many trees, vines, shrubs, groundcovers, annuals and perennials will grow in close proximity to a walnut tree. Certain cultivars of "resistant" species are reported to do poorly. Black walnut has been recommended for pastures on hillsides in the Ohio Valley and Appalachian mountain regions. Trees hold the soil, prevent erosion and provide shade for cattle. The beneficial effect of black walnut on pastures in encouraging the growth of Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis L.) and other grasses appears to be valid as long as there is sufficient sunlight and water. 

Gardeners should carefully consider the planting site for black walnut, butternut, or persian walnut seedlings grafted to black walnut rootstock, if other garden or landscape plants are to be grown within the root zone of mature trees. Persian walnut seedlings or trees grafted onto Persian walnut rootstocks do not appear to have a toxic effect on other plants. 

Horses may be affected by black walnut chips or sawdust when they are used for bedding material. Close association with walnut trees while pollen is being shed (typically in May) also produce allergic symptoms in both horses and humans. The juglone toxin occurs in the leaves, bark and wood of walnut, but these contain lower concentrations than in the roots. Juglone is poorly soluble in water and does not move very far in the soil. 

Walnut leaves can be composted because the toxin breaks down when exposed to air, water and bacteria. The toxic effect can be degraded in two to four weeks. In soil, breakdown may take up to two months. Black walnut leaves may be composted separately, and the finished compost tested for toxicity by planting tomato seedlings in it. Sawdust mulch, fresh sawdust or chips from street tree prunings from black walnut are not suggested for plants sensitive to juglone, such as blueberry or other plants that are sensitive to juglone. However, composting of bark for a minimum of six months provides a safe mulch even for plants sensitive to juglone. 

Plants Observed Growing Under or Near Black Walnut*
Trees
Japanese Maples, Acer palmatum and its cultivars 
Southern Catalpa, Catalpa bignonioides 
Eastern Redbud, Cercis canadensis 
Canadian Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis 
Vines and Shrubs
Clematis 'Red Cardinal' 
February Daphne, Daphne mezereum 
Euonymus species 
Weeping Forsythia, Forsythia suspensa 
Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus 
Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica, and most other Lonicera species 
Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia 
** Pinxterbloom, Rhododendron periclymenoides 
**'Gibraltar' and 'Balzac', Rhododendron Exbury hybrids 
Multiflora Rose, Rosa multiflora 
Black Raspberry, Rubus occidentalis 
Arborvitaes, Thuja species 
** Koreanspice Viburnum, Viburnum carlesii, and most other Viburnum species 
Annuals
Pot-marigold, Calendula officinalis 'Nonstop' 
Begonia, fibrous cultivars 
Morning Glory, Ipomoea 'Heavenly Blue' 
Pansy Viola 
Zinnia species 
Vegetables
Squashes, Melons, Beans, Carrots, Corn 
Fruit Trees
Peach, Nectarine, Cherry, Plum 
Prunus species Pear-Pyrus species 
Herbaceous Perennials
Bugleweed, Ajuga reptans 
Hollyhock, Alcea rosea 
American Wood Anemone, Anemone quinquefolia 
Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Arisaema triphyllum 
European Wild Ginger, Asarum europaeum 
Astilbe species 
Bellflower, Campanula latifolia 
**Chrysanthemum species (some) 
Glory-of-the-Snow, Chionodoxa luciliae 
Spring Beauty, Claytonia virginica 
Crocus species 
Dutchman's Breeches, Dicentra cucullaria 
Leopard's-Bane, Doronicum species 
Crested Wood Fern, Dryopteris cristata 
Spanish Bluebell, Endymion hispanicus 
Winter Aconite, Eranthis hyemalis 
Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis 
Sweet Woodruff, Galium odoratum 
Herb Robert, Geranium robertianum 
Cranesbill, Geranium sanguineum 
Grasses (most) Gramineae family 
Jerusalem Artichoke, Helianthus tuberosus 
Common Daylily, Hemerocallis 'Pluie de Feu' 
Coral Bells, Heuchera x brizoides 
Orange Hawkweed, Hieracium aurantiacum 
Plantain-lily, Hosta fortunei 'Glauca' 
Hosta lancifolia 
Hosta marginata 
Hosta undulata 'Variegata' 
Common Hyacinth, Hyacinthus Orientalis 'City of Haarlem' 
Virginia Waterleaf, Hydrophyllum virginianum 
Siberian Iris, Iris sibirica 
Balm, Monarda didyma 
Wild Bergamot, M. fistulosa 
Grape Hyacinth, Muscari botryoides 
Sweet Cicely, Myrrhis odorata 'Yellow Cheerfulness,' 'Geranium,' 'Tete a Tete,' 'Sundial,' and 'February Gold' 
Sundrops, Oenothera fruticosa 
Senstitive Fern, Onoclea sensibilis 
Cinnamon Fern, Osmunda cinnamomea 
Peony, **Paeonia species (some) 
Summer Phlox, Phlox paniculata 
Mayapple, Podophyllum peltatum 
Jacob's-Ladder, Polemonium reptans 
Great Solomon's-Seal, Polygonatum commutatum 
Polyanthus Primrose, Primula x polyantha 
Lungwort, Pulmonaria species 
Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis 
Siberian Squill, Scilla sibirica 
Goldmoss Stonecrop, Sedum acre 
Showy Sedum, Sedum spectabile 
Lamb's-Ear, Stachys byzantina 
Spiderwort, Tradescantia virginiana 
Nodding Trillium, Trillium cernuum 
White Wake-Robin, Trillium grandiflorum 
Tulipa Darwin 'White Valcano' and 'Cum Laude,' Parrot 'Blue Parrot,' Greigii 'Toronto' 
Big Merrybells, Uvularia grandiflora 
Canada Violet, Viola canadensis 
Horned Violet, Viola cornuta 
Woolly Blue Violet, Viola sororia 
*These are based upon observations and not from clinical tests.
**Cultivars of some species may do poorly. 

Plants That Do Not Grow Within 50 Feet of Drip Line of Black Walnut
Herbaceous Perennials
Colorado Columbine, Aquilegia caerulea 
Wild Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis 
Asparagus, Asparagus offinalis 
*Chrysanthemum Chrysanthumum species (some) 
Baptisia australis 
Hydrangea species 
Lilies, Lilium species (particularly the Asian hybrids) 
Alfalfa, Medicago sativa 
Buttercup, Narcissus 'John Evelyn,' 'Unsurpassable' 'King Alfred' and 'Ice Follies' 
Peonies, *Paeonia species (some) 
Rhubarb, Rheum rhabarbarum 
Trees
Silver Maple, Acer saccharinum 
European Alder, Alnus glutinosa 
White Birches, Betula species 
Northern Hackberry, Celtis occidentalis 
Apples and Crabapples, Malus species 
Norway Spruce, Picea abies 
Mugo Pine, Pinus mugo 
Red Pine, Pinus resinosa 
Eastern White Pine, Pinus strobus 
Basswood, Tilia heterophylla 
Shrubs
Red Chokeberry, Aronia arbutifolia 
Hydrangea species 
Mountain Laurels, Kalmia species 
Privet, Ligustrum species 
Amur Honeysuckle, Lonicera maackii 
Brush Cinquefoil, Potentilla species 
Rhododendrons and Azaleas, **Rhododendron species (most) 
Blackberry, Rubus allegheniensis 
Lilacs, Syringa species and cultivars 
Yew, Taxus species 
Blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum 
*Viburnum plicatum tomentosum 'Mariesii' 
Annuals and Vegetables Transplants
Cabbage, Brassica oleracea capitata 
Peppers, Capsicum species (some) 
Tomatoes, Lycopersicon esculentum 
Flowering Tobacco, Nicotiana alata 
Petunia species and cultivars 
Eggplant, Solanum melongena 
Potato, Solanum tuberosum 
double-flowered cole vegetables 


also in Gaia's garden they say that you can plant barrier plants between your walnuts and your other plants..those barrier plants will soak up the juglone in the soil and then it won't get to the other plants..you might pick up the book and read it


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## ronbre (Apr 26, 2009)

here are some lists for you concerning black walnuts..hope it isn't too long
Black Walnut Toxicity to Plants, Humans and Horses
HYG-1148-93
Richard C. Funt
Jane Martin

The roots of Black Walnut (Juglans ***** L.) and Butternut (Juglans cinerea L.) produce a substance known as juglone (5-hydroxy-alphanapthaquinone). Persian (English or Carpathian) walnut trees are sometimes grafted onto black walnut rootstocks. Many plants such as tomato, potato, blackberry, blueberry, azalea, mountain laurel, rhododendron, red pine and apple may be injured or killed within one to two months of growth within the root zone of these trees. The toxic zone from a mature tree occurs on average in a 50 to 60 foot radius from the trunk, but can be up to 80 feet. The area affected extends outward each year as a tree enlarges. Young trees two to eight feet high can have a root diameter twice the height of the top of the tree, with susceptible plants dead within the root zone and dying at the margins. 

Not all plants are sensitive to juglone. Many trees, vines, shrubs, groundcovers, annuals and perennials will grow in close proximity to a walnut tree. Certain cultivars of "resistant" species are reported to do poorly. Black walnut has been recommended for pastures on hillsides in the Ohio Valley and Appalachian mountain regions. Trees hold the soil, prevent erosion and provide shade for cattle. The beneficial effect of black walnut on pastures in encouraging the growth of Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis L.) and other grasses appears to be valid as long as there is sufficient sunlight and water. 

Gardeners should carefully consider the planting site for black walnut, butternut, or persian walnut seedlings grafted to black walnut rootstock, if other garden or landscape plants are to be grown within the root zone of mature trees. Persian walnut seedlings or trees grafted onto Persian walnut rootstocks do not appear to have a toxic effect on other plants. 

Horses may be affected by black walnut chips or sawdust when they are used for bedding material. Close association with walnut trees while pollen is being shed (typically in May) also produce allergic symptoms in both horses and humans. The juglone toxin occurs in the leaves, bark and wood of walnut, but these contain lower concentrations than in the roots. Juglone is poorly soluble in water and does not move very far in the soil. 

Walnut leaves can be composted because the toxin breaks down when exposed to air, water and bacteria. The toxic effect can be degraded in two to four weeks. In soil, breakdown may take up to two months. Black walnut leaves may be composted separately, and the finished compost tested for toxicity by planting tomato seedlings in it. Sawdust mulch, fresh sawdust or chips from street tree prunings from black walnut are not suggested for plants sensitive to juglone, such as blueberry or other plants that are sensitive to juglone. However, composting of bark for a minimum of six months provides a safe mulch even for plants sensitive to juglone. 

Plants Observed Growing Under or Near Black Walnut*
Trees
Japanese Maples, Acer palmatum and its cultivars 
Southern Catalpa, Catalpa bignonioides 
Eastern Redbud, Cercis canadensis 
Canadian Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis 
Vines and Shrubs
Clematis 'Red Cardinal' 
February Daphne, Daphne mezereum 
Euonymus species 
Weeping Forsythia, Forsythia suspensa 
Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus 
Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica, and most other Lonicera species 
Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia 
** Pinxterbloom, Rhododendron periclymenoides 
**'Gibraltar' and 'Balzac', Rhododendron Exbury hybrids 
Multiflora Rose, Rosa multiflora 
Black Raspberry, Rubus occidentalis 
Arborvitaes, Thuja species 
** Koreanspice Viburnum, Viburnum carlesii, and most other Viburnum species 
Annuals
Pot-marigold, Calendula officinalis 'Nonstop' 
Begonia, fibrous cultivars 
Morning Glory, Ipomoea 'Heavenly Blue' 
Pansy Viola 
Zinnia species 
Vegetables
Squashes, Melons, Beans, Carrots, Corn 
Fruit Trees
Peach, Nectarine, Cherry, Plum 
Prunus species Pear-Pyrus species 
Herbaceous Perennials
Bugleweed, Ajuga reptans 
Hollyhock, Alcea rosea 
American Wood Anemone, Anemone quinquefolia 
Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Arisaema triphyllum 
European Wild Ginger, Asarum europaeum 
Astilbe species 
Bellflower, Campanula latifolia 
**Chrysanthemum species (some) 
Glory-of-the-Snow, Chionodoxa luciliae 
Spring Beauty, Claytonia virginica 
Crocus species 
Dutchman's Breeches, Dicentra cucullaria 
Leopard's-Bane, Doronicum species 
Crested Wood Fern, Dryopteris cristata 
Spanish Bluebell, Endymion hispanicus 
Winter Aconite, Eranthis hyemalis 
Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis 
Sweet Woodruff, Galium odoratum 
Herb Robert, Geranium robertianum 
Cranesbill, Geranium sanguineum 
Grasses (most) Gramineae family 
Jerusalem Artichoke, Helianthus tuberosus 
Common Daylily, Hemerocallis 'Pluie de Feu' 
Coral Bells, Heuchera x brizoides 
Orange Hawkweed, Hieracium aurantiacum 
Plantain-lily, Hosta fortunei 'Glauca' 
Hosta lancifolia 
Hosta marginata 
Hosta undulata 'Variegata' 
Common Hyacinth, Hyacinthus Orientalis 'City of Haarlem' 
Virginia Waterleaf, Hydrophyllum virginianum 
Siberian Iris, Iris sibirica 
Balm, Monarda didyma 
Wild Bergamot, M. fistulosa 
Grape Hyacinth, Muscari botryoides 
Sweet Cicely, Myrrhis odorata 'Yellow Cheerfulness,' 'Geranium,' 'Tete a Tete,' 'Sundial,' and 'February Gold' 
Sundrops, Oenothera fruticosa 
Senstitive Fern, Onoclea sensibilis 
Cinnamon Fern, Osmunda cinnamomea 
Peony, **Paeonia species (some) 
Summer Phlox, Phlox paniculata 
Mayapple, Podophyllum peltatum 
Jacob's-Ladder, Polemonium reptans 
Great Solomon's-Seal, Polygonatum commutatum 
Polyanthus Primrose, Primula x polyantha 
Lungwort, Pulmonaria species 
Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis 
Siberian Squill, Scilla sibirica 
Goldmoss Stonecrop, Sedum acre 
Showy Sedum, Sedum spectabile 
Lamb's-Ear, Stachys byzantina 
Spiderwort, Tradescantia virginiana 
Nodding Trillium, Trillium cernuum 
White Wake-Robin, Trillium grandiflorum 
Tulipa Darwin 'White Valcano' and 'Cum Laude,' Parrot 'Blue Parrot,' Greigii 'Toronto' 
Big Merrybells, Uvularia grandiflora 
Canada Violet, Viola canadensis 
Horned Violet, Viola cornuta 
Woolly Blue Violet, Viola sororia 
*These are based upon observations and not from clinical tests.
**Cultivars of some species may do poorly. 

Plants That Do Not Grow Within 50 Feet of Drip Line of Black Walnut
Herbaceous Perennials
Colorado Columbine, Aquilegia caerulea 
Wild Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis 
Asparagus, Asparagus offinalis 
*Chrysanthemum Chrysanthumum species (some) 
Baptisia australis 
Hydrangea species 
Lilies, Lilium species (particularly the Asian hybrids) 
Alfalfa, Medicago sativa 
Buttercup, Narcissus 'John Evelyn,' 'Unsurpassable' 'King Alfred' and 'Ice Follies' 
Peonies, *Paeonia species (some) 
Rhubarb, Rheum rhabarbarum 
Trees
Silver Maple, Acer saccharinum 
European Alder, Alnus glutinosa 
White Birches, Betula species 
Northern Hackberry, Celtis occidentalis 
Apples and Crabapples, Malus species 
Norway Spruce, Picea abies 
Mugo Pine, Pinus mugo 
Red Pine, Pinus resinosa 
Eastern White Pine, Pinus strobus 
Basswood, Tilia heterophylla 
Shrubs
Red Chokeberry, Aronia arbutifolia 
Hydrangea species 
Mountain Laurels, Kalmia species 
Privet, Ligustrum species 
Amur Honeysuckle, Lonicera maackii 
Brush Cinquefoil, Potentilla species 
Rhododendrons and Azaleas, **Rhododendron species (most) 
Blackberry, Rubus allegheniensis 
Lilacs, Syringa species and cultivars 
Yew, Taxus species 
Blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum 
*Viburnum plicatum tomentosum 'Mariesii' 
Annuals and Vegetables Transplants
Cabbage, Brassica oleracea capitata 
Peppers, Capsicum species (some) 
Tomatoes, Lycopersicon esculentum 
Flowering Tobacco, Nicotiana alata 
Petunia species and cultivars 
Eggplant, Solanum melongena 
Potato, Solanum tuberosum 
double-flowered cole vegetables 


also in Gaia's garden they say that you can plant barrier plants between your walnuts and your other plants..those barrier plants will soak up the juglone in the soil and then it won't get to the other plants..you might pick up the book and read it ..but some of the suggestions were mulberries and goumi


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

mamadelbosque said:


> So... is there anything we can mix into our soil to counteract the... stuff that black walnuts leach into the soil to keep other stuff from growing around them?? Or, are we just screwed?


I'm faced with the same problem since my main shade tree is a black walnut about 40 years old. You can do nothing to "treat" your soil short of killing the trees. Your options are to grow juglone-tolerant plants in the soil and juglone-sensitive plants in containers. If you use containers, they should have no holes which will allow roots to continue growing into the ground. Otherwise the results are the same as planting direct into the soil.

Martin


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## majik (Feb 23, 2005)

We have this problem in spades. We have a huge "mama" tree that I'm not willing to take down, but have 20+ babies (although they are hundreds of feet tall) that are affecting my garden area. As others have suggested, you need to customoze your planting to accomodate the drip line, so I have moved all my tomoatoes to another, walnut free spot and try to plant things on the "OK" list in the main garden area. I am also planning to remove the smaller trees. I have done some of that already, but they sure like to try and re-grow, so it's an annual event. You just have to keep trying. I read in an ag bulletin that raspberries were OK with walnuts, but my plants are not doing well, so I'll be moving them in the fall and putting other things in that spot.


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## mamadelbosque (Sep 29, 2008)

*sigh* thats what I was afraid of. It really does explain why our gardens have always sucked so bad though... :sniffle: I may have been over-estimating (slightly when I said dozens, but still... LOTS of black walnuts. I paced out aproximatly how far 80' is (which is the drip line from mature trees, apparently...), and its like, our entire garden, currently. So. we tilled up on teh far, far far end of the yard which is where I'm now planning on planting the stuff I have today, hopefully... 

And maybe we'll try moving the blueberries we have up that way... anyone have experience moving blueberries? Is it possible? Or, should we just like mow over them and buy some new ones?? Are grapes generally OK with black walnut? We have two old concord plants that previously have been OK but the last two years have done awful... I planted 3 new plants last year and all but one are dead  Our raspberries that we had years ago always did awful, course there right by the walnuts... so thats probably that!


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## majik (Feb 23, 2005)

Here's a link to some more information about what (theoretically) can withstand the juglone. My experience is that we have so many walnuts that pretty much everything is affected. Sorry! http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/info_walnut_toxicity.htm


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## ronbre (Apr 26, 2009)

wow i don't know what happened why that posted more than once..i'm so sorry i only posted it once..

Gaia's garden has a lot of information about growing around walnuts in the book


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## pkchicken (Sep 15, 2006)

Mamadel, thank you so much for posting this!
I have learned alot from this thread.
We have a number of walnut trees and sorta knew about the jugalone and adversity to tomatos etc but I didn't realize that "50 ft from the drip line" was an issue!

An odd thing though, every 3 years we rotate our tomatos to the area maybe 20 ft from the drip line and have had fair results. I say fair because we have fusalarium wilt in our soil and starts to be a problem about half way thru the season. Our solution has been to plant much more than we need so that if we have a wet season, we'll still get enough tomatos to can for the year.

Lots of good info in those links. Thanks everyone! I really enjoyed those photos!

pk


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## lisa's garden (Apr 1, 2010)

I think that you might have better luck in raised beds that have bottoms, located outside of the drip line. Since the roots of the trees contain juglone also, you would want to prevent them from growing up into the raised beds. Fill the raised beds with potting soil, mushroom compost or soil brought in from an area with no walnut trees. Check every fall and spring for nuts that the squirrels have buried in your raised beds and remove them to prevent juglone from leaching into the soil.

If you have an area in the front yard with no walnut trees nearby, you could try growing your veggies there, provided there is enough sun. You can inter-plant flowers with tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, etc and it looks very nice together. It is better than going to the store for everything!

Good luck!


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