# Building the home



## TraderBob

I apologize for hijacking the $2000 cabin thread, and will continue my posts here for those who want to see the progress, slow as it may be.

My wife joined my son and I on this beautiful day to pick blackberries while we worked. Our place is covered in them 




























She picked enough to make a cobbler and a pie today, and over the next couple weeks we'll get enough to make jam and freeze some. 

We got the 4th wall up, and the second loft joists in place. Now to do the roof...not looking forward to it  we'll do a 8:12 pitch for headroom in the lofts.










Have a safe and happy Independence weekend!


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## calliemoonbeam

TB, I'll be watching this thread with interest, since you're doing the 12' walls like I want when I do mine. Hopefully, I'll get some good inspiration from you, since mine is down the road a ways. 

P.S. Enjoy those blackberries while you can, lol, pretty soon you'll think they're a nuisance! They'll take over your entire place if you don't fight them constantly. Ask me how I know.


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## RonM

I think that is referred to as balloon framing?


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## TraderBob

Since the home is on the small side, 16x32 I knew we need the lofts, and building it with 12 ft walls would give us some kneewall up there, increasing usable space and headroom.
The lofts will be 16x13. which should give us a little over 1000 sq ft with the below addition.

In the above picture, on the far right long side, we'll be adding an 8x16 addition, split into 2 rooms, these will only have 8ft walls. 1 will be the bathroom, 1 will be the utility room which will house the electrical equip (solar).


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## calliemoonbeam

Mine won't be as big as yours, but it's just me. It will be maybe 12 x 28, and my lofts will probably only be 12 x 8, so all the more important for that knee wall. 

I plan to actually have a murphy bed downstairs for my sleeping and use the lofts for storage and maybe a craft area and/or extra sleeping area for guests. I've also considered making it smaller, but putting it over a full basement, but my goal is to not have to use the ladder/stairs all the time due to a sometimes gimpy leg. Occasional use would be okay, and I do want a good bit of storage.

I just can't make up my mind about a lot of things, lol, especially the kitchen. I keep redesigning it and changing things. I must have a couple of dozen plans already.  One thing I've been having trouble with is where to put the utility stuff without having to add on a room, may have to do that but I really don't want to.


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## TraderBob

RonM said:


> I think that is referred to as balloon framing?


Never heard of that, will have to look it up.

EDIT: I guess it sort of is 

http://www.pbs.org/ktca/farmhouses/homes_balloon.html


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## Lookin4GoodLife

If I was going to be walking around up there or storing a bunch of heavy stuff up there, I'd probably put some type of Simpson strong tie on all those joists. They're not real expensive and add a lot of strength.


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## fishhead

I don't see any bracing on some of the walls. Am I missing it?

How are the joists fastened to the studs? I think balloon framing used to be fairly common.


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## jwal10

Balloon framing is bad in a fire if there is no blocking. Fire races up the walls. We frame the walls with double top plates, add the floor joists and decking, then build knee walls with double plates, trusses put on top of the knee walls. Everything is tied together well and safer if there is ever a fire. Not saying it is better, just stronger with the newer type materials and building practices....James


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## calliemoonbeam

Good points and questions guys. Things I wouldn't have thought of, but I have a lot of research about building to do before ever starting mine. I do plan to store some heavy stuff in my lofts, so that's especially important to me, as well as the fire issue, of which I'm deathly afraid. I plan to put some kind of dormer in my lofts so there's an exit in case of fire.

Thanks! Will be very interested to watch this thread progress.


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## TraderBob

fishhead said:


> I don't see any bracing on some of the walls. Am I missing it?
> 
> How are the joists fastened to the studs? I think balloon framing used to be fairly common.


The joists are set on 7ft 6in studs, nailed to the full length studs.

Don't see bracing on some of the walls? Not sure what you mean, but if you mean to support freestanding wall, it isn't needed where I don't have it at the moment. The walls are tied in to each other, and a topplate going on will also tie the together.


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## TraderBob

Lookin4GoodLife said:


> If I was going to be walking around up there or storing a bunch of heavy stuff up there, I'd probably put some type of Simpson strong tie on all those joists. They're not real expensive and add a lot of strength.


They aren't needed in this case. The joists are fully supported, not just nailed to a side of the board


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## TraderBob

jwal10 said:


> Balloon framing is bad in a fire if there is no blocking. Fire races up the walls. We frame the walls with double top plates, add the floor joists and decking, then build knee walls with double plates, trusses put on top of the knee walls. Everything is tied together well and safer if there is ever a fire. Not saying it is better, just stronger with the newer type materials and building practices....James



I'm not too concerned about it, considering it was used for a long time, and I've lived for years in one just like it. Everything evolves, I know.


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## Nimrod

The bracing they are talking about is diagonal bracing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dia...ry%2Fwall-bracing%2Fconventional.html;247;415

You can do this in the corners to keep everything plumb, level, and square. I have also seen where the pieces of sheathing in the corners are 4X8 plywood for the bracing. 

In the old days they didn't have plywood. The sheathing was pieces of 1X lumber attached horizontally. The diagonal bracing is needed if that's what you plan.


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## TraderBob

Nimrod said:


> The bracing they are talking about is diagonal bracing.
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=dia...ry%2Fwall-bracing%2Fconventional.html;247;415
> 
> You can do this in the corners to keep everything plumb, level, and square. I have also seen where the pieces of sheathing in the corners are 4X8 plywood for the bracing.
> 
> In the old days they didn't have plywood. The sheathing was pieces of 1X lumber attached horizontally. The diagonal bracing is needed if that's what you plan.


This is a continuously sheathed structure, and the bracing is not needed.


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## jwal10

We can use 5/8" T-111 without grooves for siding without bracing or extra sheathing. We have done many with battans on the front for visual effect. Just stained with a solid color stain....James


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## jwal10

12' walls. Continuous 12' sheathing or will you be blocking in at 8', 9' 10'? Doubled studs under the floor joists? How will that work out for insulation? Will there be partial walls under the lofts somewhere? 16' is a pretty good span. Will you be using trusses or build your own rafters? Ridgepole? How will you tie in those wall plates?

....James


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## simplegirl

Love the blackberries and the pictures of your home. We are also building a small home with a partial loft area (24'x 24") and just got the foundation done, subfloor is next. It is a huge project so I will be following with great interest.


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## NorthwoodsMike

jwal10 said:


> 12' walls. Continuous 12' sheathing or will you be blocking in at 8', 9' 10'? Doubled studs under the floor joists? How will that work out for insulation? Will there be partial walls under the lofts somewhere? 16' is a pretty good span. Will you be using trusses or build your own rafters? Ridgepole? How will you tie in those wall plates?
> 
> ....James


If I remember right, with the balloon framing, the floor joists serve as the "lower 1/3rd" collar tie, so he may only need a ridge board. Dormers could change this, depending on type. It's hard to tell the floor joist size from the picture, but those look like 2x10s, and most wood species will span 16ft with 16OC spacing.


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## TraderBob

It's been a bit since I was able to get out and get anything done, but made a little progress.

Squared it up, added the top plate, threw up some decking to stand on, and added some sheathing on each corner. Started framing the roof, and will have it finished this week.
Here are a couple pics:


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## Dixie Bee Acres

Glad to see you able to get back at it. Keep the progress up.


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## TraderBob

Little more done today, rafters in, cross ties in, and started the purlins for the metal roof. Had to throw some planks and decking up in the middle that will come out later...easier than using a ladder. 

Next for the soffit and gable ends. Might be a couple days before I get back out. Neighbor stopped by to see if I wanted to butcher his chickens for 50/50, and of course I said yes. Tomorrow I'll be doing that in the morning, and Thursday I drive across the state to drop my wife and son at the Amtrak station for their trip....ahhh, I get a vacation  not.

Anyway, here is todays progress:


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## unioncreek

Balloon framing is turn of the century, that's the way my house is built. I would also stress fireblocking.

Bob


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## BigWolf

Hi I'm curious about how much it would cost to build what your building. I would like to get as many ideas n numbers written down. Thanks and looks nice


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## TraderBob

BigWolf said:


> Hi I'm curious about how much it would cost to build what your building. I would like to get as many ideas n numbers written down. Thanks and looks nice


At this point, all the lumber, sheathing, and decking for the complete building, including the 16x32 and an additional 8x16 on the back side came to $3217, tax and delivery included. 

The 6x6's and concrete piers were $220. Star screws were $29 a 5lb box, 5 boxes bought, plenty left.

The metal roofing is $21.87 a sheet, I need 24 sheets...tax and delivery make it $620, I have the washered screws left over from a different project.

Windows are $87 each, I'll use 10. The doors are $135 each. That is new price. I'm hitting up auctions to look for used doors and windows, and watching the materials section on craigslist to try to lower the cost.

I haven't priced insulation yet, but I have a line on some for less than cost, hope it's there when I'm ready for it. Can't afford to buy it now, until it's dried in first. As the money comes in, I get what I can now. Should be around $600

Both exterior and interior will be done with pine car siding $1500 for the inside, less for the outside. It would be much cheaper to use T1-11 on the outside, but it's ugly to me. All depends on far the money stretches 

As far as the floor, no idea yet...it depends whether or not my son and I have the will to tear apart all the pallets or not 

Then there are the misc...wiring, outlets, lighting, etc. My hope is that I can complete it for $10-12,000. Bigger and better than one of the prefab cabin barns, after all, I have to live in it. 

I apologize for not getting up the pics I was going to. My wife took the camera on her trip, and my cell says I haveto insert an SD card, and I have an 8GB in it... Next week I'll have the family and camera back.

Hope this gives you an idea


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## OHmama

I haven't read all of the posts here,but is there a thread somewhere with your plans? I'm curious. We are hoping to buy property and build next year..always looking for ideas!


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## TraderBob

OHmama said:


> I haven't read all of the posts here,but is there a thread somewhere with your plans? I'm curious. We are hoping to buy property and build next year..always looking for ideas!


Plans? No plans, it's all in my head. I had a vision of leading the world out of darkness, and it all began here...just kidding. 

I haven't put pen to paper, I know it's unusual, but I just "see" it in my head, and then do it. Sometimes I seek guidance here, and that helps clarify it.


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## Lookin4GoodLife

Bob, you might check to see if there's a Habitat Re-store in your area. They sometimes have some good deals on windows and doors that folks have donated.


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## TraderBob

Lookin4GoodLife said:


> Bob, you might check to see if there's a Habitat Re-store in your area. They sometimes have some good deals on windows and doors that folks have donated.


I wish there was one closer


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## BigWolf

Thanks that does help out. I had figured I could build something like or close to for 2k-3k not counting wiring n extras. I know everyone would want electricity but I'm not sure on how wiring would be with solar and such so I haven't included it in my pricing guess that's the next thing to look into. I wanted to be totally self sufficient n off the grid.


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## TraderBob

BigWolf said:


> Thanks that does help out. I had figured I could build something like or close to for 2k-3k not counting wiring n extras. I know everyone would want electricity but I'm not sure on how wiring would be with solar and such so I haven't included it in my pricing guess that's the next thing to look into. I wanted to be totally self sufficient n off the grid.


I'll also be totally off grid. Can't get power in back here. Well, I can, but the upfront cost could power several homes in solar 

A friend donated a wood stove if I remove it, that they no longer use, and when I pick my family up, I'll make a detour to pick up some new donated triple wall stove pipe. I sold my Vogelzang double barrel stove this summer, as it would be to big for this place. When the shop is done in the future, I'll put together another one for it.


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## calliemoonbeam

Wow Bob, that is some great detail on supply costs, and it's nice to see it broken down into components. Most articles just mention the total end cost and never any kind of a breakdown on where it was spent. Your work looks great so far! 

I too hate the T1-11 siding, it is SO ugly! I really like the car siding. I think it must be what I have on the interior of my office, just never could figure out what it was called, lol. It's an add-on to a mobile home and was here when I bought it. I love the way it looks and it's easy to clean too.

I don't know if it will do you any good, but I've been finding some cool stuff, and plan to look much more once I'm closer to building, at architectural salvages. But then, I like more of an antique or old-fashioned look, whereas most tiny home builders seem to lean toward the more modern, minimalist style. At the salvages, some things are really high, but they seem to have doors, windows and trim type things at good prices, plus some occasional great finds on stained glass. I picked up a great piece for really cheap that I plan to use as a focal point, just not exactly sure how yet, lol.

Great luck on the wood stove and piping! I should be so lucky, lol. I love some of the marine stoves, which are the perfect size for a tiny home, but boy are they pricy! 

Unioncreek, good note about the fire blocking. I'm just learning about balloon framing and hadn't seen anything yet about fire blocking, so thanks! It certainly makes a lot of sense, and I have a phobia about fire, especially while I'm in the loft.


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## TraderBob

Just a small update, photos are from a crappy vivitar, can't find mine.

Here is the metal roof on, and a pic showing our scaffolding.


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## TraderBob

Alrighty then, a little farther along.
I picked up a door and some windows, and after the church chili cookoff today, I enlisted the help of the pastor to help me lift the door in place...but by the time he got there, my son and I had it in...apparently the chili my son ate gave him the extra strength required to lift it 

Almost completely dried in, have to do the gable ends yet, but might ask a couple locals to do it...I found that heights are beginning to bother me and the older I get, the less I bounce.

I'll frame the windows out later, just working to enclose it before the bad weather.


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## calliemoonbeam

It's looking good! I like the roof. 

I know what you mean about heights, lol. It's going to be my biggest challenge when I do mine. I actually get dizzy, and my son is worse than I am, ha!  I'm hoping to get some friends of his to help or maybe a guy I know who's a roofer, if he has the time to spare, he's always super busy!


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## TraderBob

calliemoonbeam said:


> It's looking good! I like the roof.
> 
> I know what you mean about heights, lol. It's going to be my biggest challenge when I do mine. I actually get dizzy, and my son is worse than I am, ha!  I'm hoping to get some friends of his to help or maybe a guy I know who's a roofer, if he has the time to spare, he's always super busy!


Heights never used to bother me. I'd climb higher, jump farther....but now that I've found my bones break much easier than bend, and that I'm top heavy , I just get nervous..oh to be young again.


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## Dixie Bee Acres

Looks like you are making progress. 
If you dont mind a small observation, the next time you build, you might want to stagger the joints of your OSB.


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## TraderBob

Dixie Bee Acres said:


> Looks like you are making progress.
> If you dont mind a small observation, the next time you build, you might want to stagger the joints of your OSB.


Yeah, I thought of it. Probably should have, but what's done is done. Next time


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## fishhead

Have you consider cellulose insulation. That would eliminate the need for fire blocking too.


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## TraderBob

fishhead said:


> Have you consider cellulose insulation. That would eliminate the need for fire blocking too.


I did, but I can get rolls of 24in for the roof and 16in for the walls very cheap, including several free rolls. 

I'll post progress pics next weekend of the inside as well...doing the gable ends and loft floor decking this week.


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## kycrawler

On a heated building a metal roof will sweat and drip with temp changes with glass batt insulation this could cause a mold problem I was wondering what you were thinking to work around that . I installed OSB and 30 lb roof felt under mine and it made a nice quiet solid roof


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## TraderBob

kycrawler said:


> On a heated building a metal roof will sweat and drip with temp changes with glass batt insulation this could cause a mold problem I was wondering what you were thinking to work around that . I installed OSB and 30 lb roof felt under mine and it made a nice quiet solid roof


Many options:

You can install fiberglass insulation against the metal roof and prevent moisture problems if you cover it with a vapor barrier. Some homeowners choose to use unfaced fiberglass insulation batts, then cover it with a 6-millimeter sheet plastic for a vapor barrier (thus, the plastic is between the insulation and the inside of the building). 

Better yet is a fiberglass insulation designed for metal roofs. It features long strands of fiberglass with an attached vinyl or similar material as a built-in vapor barrier. 

Another option is covering the fiberglass with reflective insulation. Just take care to tape up any seams, rips or gaps to prevent leaks that defeat the moisture barrier's purpose.


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## TraderBob

Just another short update. Gable ends filled, window installed over where the kitchen sink will be. I used a smaller window and turned it 90 degrees for this. 

I have also started the addition that will be the bathroom, and will put the walls up today...hopefully.



















and my wife and son waiting to move in


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## nosedirt

Lookin good TraderB


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## thestartupman

Do you have a sketch of your planned floor plan that you could share?


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## TraderBob

thestartupman said:


> Do you have a sketch of your planned floor plan that you could share?



I don't...really. Being an open floor plan, it's subject to change..and it does.

Basically kitchen at one end, living room at the other end, bathroom/utility room in the addition. Open in the middle, loft on each end. Well, now that is...maybe later, who knows


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## TraderBob

I know....I'm slow. Well, the addition is almost complete. Walls and rafters up, roof is ordered.

Here is where we stand.


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## calliemoonbeam

My like button isn't working, but it looks good to me, lol. Heck, I've been dreaming and drawing plans for almost a year now, haven't even started on the actual building part. Talk about slow, ROFL! 

I've also never built anything bigger than a chicken coop and run, so it will all be a learning experience for me, bet that will really slow things down too, ha!


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## logbuilder

TraderBob said:


> I know....I'm slow. Well, the addition is almost complete. Walls and rafters up, roof is ordered.
> 
> Here is where we stand.


My only recommendation would be to get it covered before your wet season hits. That OSB will not fair well in wet weather.


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## TraderBob

logbuilder said:


> My only recommendation would be to get it covered before your wet season hits. That OSB will not fair well in wet weather.


Yeah...roof for the addition is on the way, will be up next week. The wrap is in the house, and that is outdoor rated sheathing. 

Doing the best I can, with what I have. Funds were really set back when the well was double the quote...took everything I had, now it's a board at a time.


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## TnAndy

If you decide to finish the soffit area, you're gonna hate you ran that addition roof where you did.


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## TraderBob

TnAndy said:


> If you decide to finish the soffit area, you're gonna hate you ran that addition roof where you did.


LOL, you are right, I am. I saw that when I looked up. 
There was a reason for running it below, instead of on the trusses....but should have finished that area first


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## TnAndy

You still can if you haven't put the roof metal on yet....just slide the material in from the ends and reach up thru the rafters and fasten....I'd do that part even if you leave off the rest right not....but once you get the metal on, no way.

Buddy of mine added a garage on the gable end of his house, and put the garage roof about 4" below the main roof. Came time to put vinyl soffit on, and he had to buy a palm air nailer because there wasn't enough room to hammer, or screw, or anything....but at least he had access.


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## TraderBob

So, with the holidays and vehicle repairs, haven't had a lot of time or money to do much...but here are a couple photo updates.

Got the tyvek clone on the house...what a pain in the keister with 2 people. I used a 10ft pvc pipe with a collar to hold the 3ft roll high enough for the top row...worked great. The windows leaning against there are for the green house I will build..they were free and I got about 50 total.









And my son started putting up insulation...didn't have the heart to tell him he shouldn't have yet...need to drill and wire and install boxes first


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## Dixie Bee Acres

Any progress is good. I think its great your boy took the initiative to do the insulation, you can always tuck, push, and pull it out of the way where needed for wiring.


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## TraderBob

Not much to update, haven't had a lot of time. Dropped off 4 more windows for the house, and a kitchen sink. I did a virus removal in exchange for a big stainless steel sink. Had my choice of a double cast iron, or the double stainless. I went with the stainless.

Tomorrow I go to pull a woodstove out that was bartered for,and will be my main source of heat. I have triple wall chimney that was passed on to me by someone who didn't need it, that had it passed to them, all new.

All in all, even though I didn't get a lot done, I got a lot accomplished. Baby steps.


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## Dixie Bee Acres

Good deal on the stove and pipe. Keep the progress coming, baby steps are better than no steps


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## calliemoonbeam

Great going on the stove/pipe! Just the pipe usually costs an arm and a leg. 

As Dixie said, at least you're DOING something, lol! I don't think I'm ever going to get out of the planning stages. Every time I think I'm just about ready to actually start doing something, another emergency/catastrophe comes up and delays it! Be happy you're actually in the building stage.


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## mainehomesteader

A 2X under each joist in the balloon frame portion makes it real strong. Looks good!


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## TraderBob

Well, it's been a while yet again. Life, weather, always seem to get in the way.
Here is a quick upload of the end, with a couple windows installed. I'm headed over to get something done today as well, not sure whether it will be steps or another couple windows.

I framed the windows inside, then used a sazwall to cut out the sheathing. I didn't frame the windows while building the walls, because of not knowing what size windows I would end up with.

These are 36x36. from a resale shop. They were almost new, installed on a log home and the guys wife wanted white, not brown. I think brown looks much better on a log home than white...but, glad she got her way, I picked up the windows cheap, $35 each instead of the $110 new cost.


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## TraderBob

Got another window installed today, trying to do this in between other things, and man...I wish I could just devote myself to getting this done to the exclusion of all else.

Here is my son cutting out the opening...tomorrow after church he wants to put in another window, but do all the framing work himself...so we'll go back and do another one tomorrow.










and here it is...


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## TraderBob

Went after church and he installed the last living room window. I'll need to make a couple adjustments, but he did good.


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## Dixie Bee Acres

It's coming along


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## TraderBob

Dixie Bee Acres said:


> It's coming along


It is, but so slow...
I think they will be dropping off the #2 cedar I'll be using for siding tomorrow, at least I hope so. Sometime this week for sure.
I've got my stringers, so I should probably put my steps in, lol.


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## nosedirt

That's great that your son is involved. This past year, my 13 year old Twin daughters put all new baseboard in the house. I got them started and then they did most of the cutting, nailing, caulking and painting. I had to help a little with the radius corners but they pretty much did the rest. They were afraid of the nail gun to start but loved it after they got going.
Having been in construction for 25 plus years, it gets me all happy to see young people want to build things with their own two hands. Great job!!!


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## TraderBob

nosedirt said:


> That's great that your son is involved. This past year, my 13 year old Twin daughters put all new baseboard in the house. I got them started and then they did most of the cutting, nailing, caulking and painting. I had to help a little with the radius corners but they pretty much did the rest. They were afraid of the nail gun to start but loved it after they got going.
> Having been in construction for 25 plus years, it gets me all happy to see young people want to build things with their own two hands. Great job!!!


Thats awesome! I agree it's nice to see the younguns doing things with their hands, other than holding game controllers.


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## HermitJohn

First thanks for posting the pics. REminded me that this might actually be doable even with current health problems provided I hire a helper or two. Not in great health and my current shack that was never intended to last, finally getting pretty bad after 25 years. Interestingly current shack is much like yours only about a third the space and gambrel roof. I remember cutting every corner possible when building it, didnt have many pennies.

Now only question I have is whether there is either a rock ledge or bedrock that those deck blocks of yours are setting on or perhaps deep footings under the blocks that we dont see. Cause honestly cant see building a serious house that I expect to weather the ages resting on just deck blocks setting and floating on soil surface. 

One of the biggest problems of my cheapo shack that is failing, I never built a proper foundation. Of all old shanties I've worked on over the years for other people, two things I noticed that lead to longevity. They had well built perimeter foundation and somebody cared enough to keep roof shingled so water stayed outside. otherwise some of these houses with good foundation had otherwise shockingly bad construction techniques that shouldnt even let the house stay upright for a couple years, yet it did for decades.


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## Muleman

enjoy reading your post here. You hurry up and finish practicing on yours and then you can come down and help me build mine, you can't be far up the road from me?


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## TraderBob

HermitJohn said:


> First thanks for posting the pics. REminded me that this might actually be doable even with current health problems provided I hire a helper or two. Not in great health and my current shack that was never intended to last, finally getting pretty bad after 25 years. Interestingly current shack is much like yours only about a third the space and gambrel roof. I remember cutting every corner possible when building it, didnt have many pennies.
> 
> Now only question I have is whether there is either a rock ledge or bedrock that those deck blocks of yours are setting on or perhaps deep footings under the blocks that we dont see. Cause honestly cant see building a serious house that I expect to weather the ages resting on just deck blocks setting and floating on soil surface.
> 
> One of the biggest problems of my cheapo shack that is failing, I never built a proper foundation. Of all old shanties I've worked on over the years for other people, two things I noticed that lead to longevity. They had well built perimeter foundation and somebody cared enough to keep roof shingled so water stayed outside. otherwise some of these houses with good foundation had otherwise shockingly bad construction techniques that shouldnt even let the house stay upright for a couple years, yet it did for decades.


Soil? What's that? I'm on a shelf, all rock here. 2 inches of soil, then rock, all the way to china it seems. It's all good here, the house will outlast me. The one on the next ridge over is on a block foundation and it's been lived in for the last 50 years with no issues of moving, shifting, or sinking.


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## TraderBob

Muleman said:


> enjoy reading your post here. You hurry up and finish practicing on yours and then you can come down and help me build mine, you can't be far up the road from me?


Could be, I'm building near Bergman. My #2 cedar came in, and went out today to put some on and see what it will look like, forgot the camera. Then the fuel pump is going on the truck, had to beat the tank to get it going again...sure glad I didn't get stranded there yet


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## Muleman

Mountain View


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## fffarmergirl

TraderBob said:


> Soil? What's that? I'm on a shelf, all rock here. 2 inches of soil, then rock, all the way to china it seems. It's all good here, the house will outlast me. The one on the next ridge over is on a block foundation and it's been lived in for the last 50 years with no issues of moving, shifting, or sinking.



It's true what they say about building your house on a rock! Our house is 120 years old, built on solid bedrock. At first glance the basement floor looks like concrete but if you look, you can see the fossils. We were amazed when we first realized how it was built. This house is as solid as a stone. No creaking, the corners are all still mostly square. If you go up in the attic and look at the 120 yr old 2X4s (which are really 2" X 4") and 2X6s (really 2" X 6") they look new.

The gardening is lots of fun, though!


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## TraderBob

Just a teaser. We're doing board and batten style with #2 cedar. We're using 2in spacer blocks between the boards, and they will be hidden by the 4in battens. Some people use full length 2 in spacers but we're doing the budget build, so every bit helps. We could have butted the boards together and used 2in battens, but some of the boards would have looked awfully small...this way it helps the boards look bigger.


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## chuckhole

Looking good. Enjoying the pics. I started clearing for my retirement house on my 42 acres. It is 130 miles north of my home here in Houston so I only get weekends. And since mid Feb, I have had NO weekends. I am layed up with a broken left leg. One of the trees I was cutting up for future milling got mad at me and hit me in the leg.

So, now I have a lot more time to work on the plans, materials lists, etc.

And I get to vicariously live my own projects through others such as yourself. Thanks for that. It is good to see how others are doing things.


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## TraderBob

It's been some time since I did an update. With my mom dying, traveling back to Wisconsin for the funeral, my health issues, and shoving a rusty nail all the way through my foot, I haven't been out to work on it in a couple months.

My son and I are back at it, and here is where we stand as of today before we left. Another day and we should have the front done.

I may start on the inside, get the wiring and plumbing run, as we'd like to move out there by this fall...we'll see how it goes.


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## mpulse

Its looking great


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## mreynolds

chuckhole said:


> Looking good. Enjoying the pics. I started clearing for my retirement house on my 42 acres. It is 130 miles north of my home here in Houston so I only get weekends. And since mid Feb, I have had NO weekends. I am layed up with a broken left leg. One of the trees I was cutting up for future milling got mad at me and hit me in the leg.
> 
> So, now I have a lot more time to work on the plans, materials lists, etc.
> 
> And I get to vicariously live my own projects through others such as yourself. Thanks for that. It is good to see how others are doing things.


Chuck, you won't be far from me. If you need anything or any help just let me know.


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## mreynolds

TraderBob said:


> It's been some time since I did an update. With my mom dying, traveling back to Wisconsin for the funeral, my health issues, and shoving a rusty nail all the way through my foot, I haven't been out to work on it in a couple months.
> 
> My son and I are back at it, and here is where we stand as of today before we left. Another day and we should have the front done.
> 
> I may start on the inside, get the wiring and plumbing run, as we'd like to move out there by this fall...we'll see how it goes.


Sorry about your mom Bob. The house is looking great. With any luck you should be in there by fall.


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## nosedirt

Bob, sorry about your Mom. Sounds like you've had a rough go of it lately. Looks like you have a good helper to support you though.

nosedirt


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## TraderBob

Neighbors are having some logging done, and they leave a lot behind. All 3 neighbors have told me to come get all I want. Here is 1 of the piles, there are 3 more like it and a few smaller ones.











Here is a pic of my son putting the last battens in, it's nice having someone young climbing up and down, and i can just cut. Makes it go pretty quick.










And here is a pic of the front completed. 










I've been asked why only 1 window on the front, so here is my explanation. On the right, where the window is, will be the family room...there are 2 windows on the end, and one on the other side. The side with no windows is part of the kitchen, it will be all cabinets and food storage, no need for windows. There is a window on the end above where the sink will be, and a door, and window on the back side in the utility room, and a window in the bathroom, in the back. Plenty of windows . There will also be a window up top on each end, when I find the style I like, at a price I like


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## RonM

Looking good, stay with it.......


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## hornetd

RonM said:


> I think that is referred to as balloon framing?


Not quite. Balloon Framing is the framing of a multi-floor buiding were the vertical framing members of the bearing walls are continuous from the sills to the eves of the roof and the floor joist are supported by ribbon or ledger boards that are attached to the face of the studs. The space between each set of studs is continuous from the Sill plate to the headers that support the rafters of the roof. Standard building codes require that the stud channels be fitted with Fire Blocking to prevent the spread of fire through the resultant vertical channels. 

Because of the cost of such long pieces of lumber most wood frame buildings are now constructed as Platform Frames. A floor is built and a floor worth of wall assemblies is then built on that floor. The second and subsequent floors if any are built on top of the previous floors wall framing. The vertical channels of Platform Frame construction is inherently fire stopped at each floor level by the top and bottom plates of each floors walls. Building codes still require that the stud channels be fire stopped every four or so feet. 

-- 
Tom Horne


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## TraderBob

hornetd said:


> Not quite. Balloon Framing is the framing of a multi-floor buiding were the vertical framing members of the bearing walls are continuous from the sills to the eves of the roof and the floor joist are supported by ribbon or ledger boards that are attached to the face of the studs. The space between each set of studs is continuous from the Sill plate to the headers that support the rafters of the roof. Standard building codes require that the stud channels be fitted with Fire Blocking to prevent the spread of fire through the resultant vertical channels.



That is exactly how mine are. sill to eve, one board. 2nd floor loft joists rest on boards nailed to the 12 ft studs. The space between the studs goes from sill to eve. If I put in 6 more, it would be a full second story.


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## clausont

What pitch roof are you putting on? I just skimmed through the thread and didn't read the whole thing. I'm sure you have already answered the same question  We are building our house in much the same way except we have 9' walls with a loft. It's a 26' x 40' house that we took down and are rebuilding on our homestead.  Keep up the great work!

https://www.youtube.com/user/BelizeFamilyLiving1


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## TraderBob

clausont said:


> What pitch roof are you putting on? I just skimmed through the thread and didn't read the whole thing. I'm sure you have already answered the same question  We are building our house in much the same way except we have 9' walls with a loft. It's a 26' x 40' house that we took down and are rebuilding on our homestead.  Keep up the great work!


it's an 8:12 pitch...didn't need it that steep, just wanted more center headroom.


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## TraderBob

Been awhile since i did any updates, life gets in the way sometimes.
Running electric, using 12 volt led lights, and a couple 120 runs for some things. until I get the solar fridge. Will get some interior pics as i move forward. Only have the kitchen side installed, 3 runs of 3...really is bright.
Here are some pics of the clearing around the house. #5 and #6 is 8 ft off level back to front, and will be filled with what's dug out for the pond, which is going in the right center of #1, which should get started next week when the septic is installed.


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## TraderBob

Finally have an engine in the truck and am mobile again...Septic is dug and tank in place, couple pics of that.
Mostly working inside right now.


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## TheDEERFARM

really like your cabin...the cedar looks really good !!! glad you got your septic in place as well!!!


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## josher

Just stumbled across this and read the whole thread! Keep it up!


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## fishhead

Nice looking country.


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## TraderBob

So, a few pics of the interior? Not much to see, but here they are:

3 rows of 3 led lights on the kitchen side









3 rows of 3 led lights on the livingroom side









The bathroom, in front, and the power room to the left









The switches for the lights are RV switches, each switch runs one string of lights. There is one 3 switch panel for kitchen and one for livingroom









And lastly, my son hacked a broken Dollar General broom 









So far I have been running the lights off my drill battery if I am there after dark, otherwise I don't need them. I have 3 windows, 1 interior door, and 1 exterior door to put in yet, as the money is there to do it.

Hopefully will be in it by the end of summer.


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## TraderBob

Just a minor update. While I was pulling wire today, my son wanted to see what the walls and floor would look like so he started putting them in the bathroom. Apparently did some of each 

The boards for the floor are planed down to 7/8" (started with 1" to 1 1/4" boards).
The wall pieces are approximately 1/4" - 3/8", done the hard way...a lot of waste. Looking for a thinner blade.

We take the 4" 5" and 6" boards, rip them in half, then set the fence and rip them vertically into 3 or 4 pieces...that's what is going on the walls in the bathroom. They will then be urethaned, as will the floor.

Floor









Wall









I'm sure we're going about it all wrong, but hey, we're doing it together...and when we build my son's house, we'll be perfect


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## TraderBob

Little more progress...can only work a couple hours a day, and having to rip all these boards takes time


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## TraderBob

Wow, it was even pretty level and square...


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## josher

Looking great! Keep us posted!!


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## TraderBob

The spray insulators had some downtime, so i got a great deal on having my roof insulated. 4"-5" thick.
Pretty neat how it goes on. the guys were a blast to have there.











Here is a pic of the bathroom wall switch, using RV switches with the 12 volt lighting in all rooms.


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## thestartupman

Can you give a little more detail on how you have your 12v lighting set up? It would be great to hear more about any of the 12v system you are using. How are you setting it up to use with your drill battery? Can you list what brand of lights you used in the kitchen and living room? Thanks for any info you can give.


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## TraderBob

thestartupman said:


> Can you give a little more detail on how you have your 12v lighting set up? It would be great to hear more about any of the 12v system you are using. How are you setting it up to use with your drill battery? Can you list what brand of lights you used in the kitchen and living room? Thanks for any info you can give.


I'm using this wire, 10 gauge. Best price I've found is from ebay seller bestconnectioninc. I have it in 3 days.









These are the fuseboxes, also from ebay, I am running into for the lights and rooms. I am using 2.









These are the accessory plugs I've bought to install for some 12 volt accessories and other items...there will be at least one on each wall, 3 behind the wall mounted tv.









These are the lights I am using...9 lights in each room, kitchen/living. 4.5" 12V LED Ceiling Down Light RV Camper Cabin Under Cabinet Dome Lamp Warm from ebay seller dollarled $59.99 for 10









I just run the power wire from the living room and kitchen together, and the 2 grounds together, and clip them to my drill battery when I need the light if i stay late.

I put 2 of these outside on each side of the door just for fun..dim, but functional...wife likes it, and that's what's important


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## Lookin4GoodLife

Very cool Bob! You might throw some USB outlets in there here and there if you've got any devices that need charging. I found some pretty cool cigarette lighter outlet and USB outlet combos that I put in my trailer. Can't remember if I found them on ebay or Amazon, but they're all over the place cheap.


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## Lookin4GoodLife

Something like this:


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## haypoint

Somewhat unconventional. For those watching this thread, I'd suggest headers above all the windows and doors, interior and exterior. Otherwise, looks well built.


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## TraderBob

haypoint said:


> Somewhat unconventional. For those watching this thread, I'd suggest headers above all the windows and doors, interior and exterior. Otherwise, looks well built.


All but 2 didn't. That was fixed. Both the entry door and bathroom/utility room door had headers.


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## TraderBob

It's been a bit since I had an update. Had some medical issues that didn't allow me to get much done, but I have managed to do a few things.

Bathroom is done, except for the fixtures install.
I have a 74 inch sink counter, dual flush comfort height toilet (for my old age), and a tub to go in.
This is just the finished room.










The kitchen area will soon have a partial floor so I can put in the cabinets










The living area, well...it's still a work in progress.










Here is one set of steps to one of the lofts. To save space, we flipped a 5 step stringer, making it steeper and taking up less space, both to the landing, and to the loft.










The landing will have storage under it, and display shelves on both sides of the steps. The sides (under the loft steps) will be shelves.


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## TraderBob

Change of pace...getting 'net out there, so had to get some siding stained and on, so i can mount the customer interfaces..here is a shot of some of the stained siding we are doing...maybe the board and batten cedar will go up around the rest someday, but now i just want it done 

DSL, 10 mg down, 1 up..best I can get, probably still better than satellite, which I will have to get eventually for redundancy. Got right of way from the neighbor, they'll do aerial up the rock face, then buried to a pedestal they'll put by my shed, to feed me and the other house we'll build, and the 2 cabins.
The box on there is for the tv antennas, I'll put up the phone/dsl tomorrow. All the cabling is done for the antennas, and most of the interior wiring for phone/dsl. Window trim later


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## TraderBob

My son made a video of our driveway  Thought I'd share...I took the audio out, but my wife said i should add music from The Hills Have Eyes, Wrong Turn, or Cabin in the Woods...lol

[ame]https://vimeo.com/166556593[/ame]


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## melli

TraderBob said:


> My son made a video of our driveway  Thought I'd share...I took the audio out, but my wife said i should add music from The Hills Have Eyes, Wrong Turn, or Cabin in the Woods...lol
> 
> https://vimeo.com/166556593


How big is your lot?! That was one long driveway....hadn't heard from you in while......any new pics?


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## TraderBob

Wow, didn't realize how long I had been away. Health issues, MRI's, PET scans, appointments across the state. Good news is the mass in my lung, after going from 8 cm to 10 cm, has stayed at 10 cm after 6 months..will have another MRI in 6 months, and if stays the same we'll call it good. Surgery in March to remove some colon cancer, and I should be good as new.

I did get some work done on the house so I'll post some pics. Money was really tight, well, non existent really, so finishing out the rest of the house in cedar is probably not going to happen. Kitchen walls are now free pallet wood we scorched with a torch. looks good.


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## TraderBob

melli said:


> How big is your lot?! That was one long driveway....hadn't heard from you in while......any new pics?


Not too big, only 23+ acres


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## TraderBob

No backhoe, no trencher, no ditch witch.....but have a tractor and a bucket 
Digging the first of 2 trenches, one for water and one for propane...will finish them up with a shovel, but saved a lot of backbreaking work.


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## mreynolds

TraderBob said:


> No backhoe, no trencher, no ditch witch.....but have a tractor and a bucket
> Digging the first of 2 trenches, one for water and one for propane...will finish them up with a shovel, but saved a lot of backbreaking work.



What I use for a ditch is a middle buster plow. 2 passes. Potato plow to you guys east of the Mississippi. Works really good.


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## TraderBob

mreynolds said:


> What I use for a ditch is a middle buster plow. 2 passes. Potato plow to you guys east of the Mississippi. Works really good.


yeah, I was looking for a single bottom plow, but no one had one, or I would have used it.


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## mreynolds

TraderBob said:


> yeah, I was looking for a single bottom plow, but no one had one, or I would have used it.


If your going to dig any ditches next spring or summer, I will be headed to see my sister in Ark around April. Pm me and I'll bring you mine.


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## Bearfootfarm

You can pull water pipe with a sub soiler if you don't have too many rocks or roots.


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## TraderBob

Bearfootfarm said:


> You can pull water pipe with a sub soiler if you don't have too many rocks or roots.


It's Arkansas..all we have are rocks on the hills, most of the topsoil has washed down generations ago. All that topsoil/compost in the pile was brought in. I grow rocks really good up on this ridge. Every year I have a bumper crop with no effort.


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## TraderBob

mreynolds said:


> If your going to dig any ditches next spring or summer, I will be headed to see my sister in Ark around April. Pm me and I'll bring you mine.


Appreciate it. I should be done soon with digging.
When you come down, give me a shout, we'll go have coffee


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