# #10 can sealer



## tonto (Jul 1, 2004)

Hi,

I'm in the market for a can sealer that can at a minimum seal #10 cans.
On ebay, I've found a "Ultrablend Trueseal Can Lid Sealer" that looks
interesting, but I don't seem to be able to find any info about these.

Then there's also the "All American Senior Flywheel can sealer", which
is a lot more expensive.

Has anyone ever used either of these?

Have you used something else?

I don't really have access to something like a LDS cannery. I'm hoping
to buy something relatively inexpensive; use it ourselves; and rent it
out to like minded people to use.

Any thoughts?

thanks
-tonto


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## Pam6 (Apr 9, 2009)

MyPatriotSupply had one for sale at one time...he might still have it, or at least tell you how it works.


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## Guest (Dec 31, 2011)

"Ultrablend Trueseal Can Lid Sealer"
I may be wrong but this looks like an industrial paint can sealer, not the same as the one used to lid a #10 can


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## Pelenaka (Jul 27, 2007)

I asked a similar question on another forum. One member who had experience with this type of canning (over ten year prior) gave the advice of keeping a good supply of food grade cans & lids which @ that time were pricey. The poster also said that @ that time there was only a few suppliers so that would be something to check on.

They didn't give a peculiar brand/model used just that they had dehydrated garden produce & put it up with O2 absorbers in metal cans. Expiration dates were estimated based on the shelf life of commercial versions. Overall per the post they had a good success rate with what they canned. 

tonto, I think that renting it out is a great idea. We do this with our cider press. 


~~ pelenaka ~~
http://thirtyfivebyninety.blogspot.com/


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## tonto (Jul 1, 2004)

Hi,

Pam6, I did look at mypatriotsupply and didn't see anything, but perhaps I just
missed it.

dlmcafee, I couldn't get a big enough picture to be able to tell, but it certainly
didn't look like it turned the can like you would need to do to seal it properly.

Pelenaka, I believe I have sources for the cans and the O2 absorbers. And you
are right, this isn't cheap, but I think the shelf life more than makes up for it. I
have short term and medium term preps, but I also would like some long term
preps. Have you had any problems renting out your cider press? We are in
earthquake country, and I know people who have some preps. Like us, they
tend to be quiet about what and how much they have.

thanks
-tonto


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

Why to you want to go the #10 route rather than mylar and O2 absorbers in 5 gal buckets?

If you are dead set on cans, how about paint cans with food grade lining. These are hard to find but here is a supplier.

http://www.emptypaintcans.com/1gallongoldlinedpaintcansnoearswlids34case.aspx

Put an O2 in each can and you should be good for many years.


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## Just Cliff (Nov 27, 2008)

I have a couple of All American can sealers. I can not do the #10 or 12 with mine. I have chucks for the 2, 2.5 and 3.
The All Americans are expencive but, they have been around forever. They are built to keep on working. If you would need spare parts they are available.
You said you are looking for one that will seal a minimum of a #10. 
Have you compared the cost difference between the can sealer for #10s vs the can sealer for smaller cans? The cost per can vs the volume it contains? 
The reason I went with the smaller cans is that it's just more convenient for me. I pack smaller quantities so I don't have to worry about the contents going bad before I use the whole thing or if I have a can go bad, it's not much that goes bad. a #10 can of dehydrated corn is a lot of corn!
I also have canned a few wet items. I have not used any yet. I have another couple months before I open them.


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## mypatriotsupply (Jan 21, 2009)

We no longer have ours for sale - but you will not find a lower price than here: http://www.geringandson.com/canner.php

I've bought two units from them and they make a good product at a much more affordable price than I've found anywhere else. 

You do NOT want to get a can sealer without a motor.


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## Pelenaka (Jul 27, 2007)

tonto said:


> Have you had any problems renting out your cider press?


We've only down this a few times. 
Where the press goes we go. Woodsrunner put to much effort in restoring it. It's not a money maker as we take shares on the cider produced as payment. Both times the renter's only had 3 or 4 bushels of apples. 
Later on one of them called us (gifted) about taking some downed limbs. 

While neither of the families have ended up being barter buddies or prepper partners it was more of a way to connect with like minded folks. 

~~ pelenaka ~~


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## NamasteMama (Jul 24, 2009)

If you know someone who belongs to the mormon church they can borrow one for free. Thats what I did when I canned my dog food.


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## sdnapier (Aug 13, 2010)

logbuilder said:


> Why to you want to go the #10 route rather than mylar and O2 absorbers in 5 gal buckets?
> 
> 
> I have to agree with log builder. I don't know where else to get #10 cans and lids but at an LDS cannery and together they run about $1.00. It's much cheaper to get free buckets from food places than to buy the cans.
> ...


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## tonto (Jul 1, 2004)

Hi,

Logbuilder, I do have 5 gallon buckets with O2 absorbers as my medium term storage.

Justcliff, I wouldn't put dried corn in #10 cans, just things like wheat, flour, rice, beans,
pasta, etc. I agree, a #10 can of dried corn would be a lot and would be better done
in a small container.

Mypatriotsupply, I will look at that site, thank you. You don't like the manual sealers?
Why?

NamasteMama, if I knew someone who was LDS, I would try and just go with them
to can, or see if they could borrow one for me to use. Unfortunately, I don't know
anyone who is LDS anymore.

Thank you for all your suggestions. I will continue to research this, and if I find
anything useful, I will post the info.

thanks,
-tonto


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## Wags (Jun 2, 2002)

NamasteMama said:


> If you know someone who belongs to the mormon church they can borrow one for free. Thats what I did when I canned my dog food.


Canned your dog food? Are you talking dried kibble or a home made food you canned?


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## mypatriotsupply (Jan 21, 2009)

tonto said:


> Hi,
> 
> Mypatriotsupply, I will look at that site, thank you. You don't like the manual sealers?
> Why?
> ...


The manual sealer may sound like a nice cost effective alternative, but when sealing food for home storage you'll typically want to do batches, instead of one at a time. If for no other reason than you don't want to keep unsealing your oxygen absorber pouch and resealing it. 

When doing a batch, the manual sealer takes a considerably longer amount of time (leaving your o2 absorbers longer exposed to open air) not to mention how the manual process can quickly wear a person out. 

This of course, is just my opinion, based on my experience - others may disagree. The other thing to keep in mind is that its fairly easy to get your used can sealer sold should you decide you no longer need it, without taking a huge loss over the price you originally paid. There are enough people out there who want one, you can unload it fairly easy if you ever decide that you're all done.


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## NamasteMama (Jul 24, 2009)

Wags said:


> Canned your dog food? Are you talking dried kibble or a home made food you canned?


 Dried Kibble. It stores for about 3 years, but we buy Grain free versions.


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## Guest (Jan 3, 2012)

With or without a motor can sealers (_especially large enough for #10 cans_) are really only practical if you're packing for a large group or family (as in eight or more).

The sealers are expensive though sometimes you can get a deal on a used one. For what it's going to cost I'd bite the bullet and get one that is motorized as Patriot Supply suggests. More than a few cans is a LOT of cranking.

It's the cans and lids themselves that are going to cost you. Empty they don't weigh much at all, but they are bulky and somewhat fragile to ship. This translates to high shipping costs. They really only start to become practical when you can buy them by the full pallet, particularly if you can go pick them up directly from the distributor. For lesser amounts I'd seriously look at using aluminized Mylar bags and some sort of bucket or other rigid container. They don't have to be five gallon in size. Smaller works well too. The buckets at least are reusable. Maybe the bags too if you are careful with them.

For what a can sealer will cost, even a manual one, you can buy TWO top of the line vacuum sealers and a pick-up load of canning jars and lids ranging from half-pint to half-gallon. The jars are infinitely reusable, there are no oxygen absorbers to use before they go bad, and the lids are pretty much infinitely reusable as well with careful use.

I keep a lot of food sealed in #10 cans. In fact I'm slowly phasing out my buckets in favor of them. But that's ONLY because I have access to the LDS Home Storage Center in Jacksonville. The church buys their cans and lids by the truckload (leftovers, end runs, and that sort of thing) where the economy of scale makes them viable and hundreds of people to spread the cost of the can sealers around. Otherwise the per-can price I'd have to pay on the scale that I myself would represent would be so high as to make the entire thing completely non-viable.

Vacuum-sealed canning jars and aluminized Mylar bags work well and can be sized to suit your needs at a much better price for the small-scale user. It's what I would do and have done for many years.


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## beachcomber (Dec 2, 2008)

for the cost of a #10 can sealer you could buy a lot of 1/2 gal canning jars and tattler lids and a vacume sealer


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