# Bees in Michigan Winter



## moday (Mar 28, 2008)

Looking for some advice on bees as I live in SE Michigan and kind of thinking about the next step for my hive. In the past, I've rolled the dice and hoped the bees would make it through winter with a deep super of brood and a deep super of honey. I did the same set up this year but added a few things:

1) Did the mite fume pad in the fall
2) Added the feed paddy on top of the hive in early Dec
3) been feeding 2:1 sugar water all winter (only filled 2 or 3 times so far)
4) Started this hive with a large windblock of brush to the north
5) Have a plywood wind block to the west

What else is recommended? I plan to keep an eye on the sugar water and keep feeding the months of Jan/Feb. I have not opened the hive but did see them flying on a warm 50F day that was rather unseasonable in January. Any other suggestions? I've never re-queened as I usually can't find my old queen. Is that a requirement? I've had about half my hives make it through winter over the years...I thought that I should be more involved. THanks, MODAY in SE Michigan


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Not sure what the mite fume pad is but if it was mite away II your all set for mite control.

North and west wind blocks are good too.

Only thing I didn't see if the fumigillan part b to protect from Nosema Creana.

I never open the hives till a really warm 60F or better day in March.

I think your pretty well set for Michigan.

 Al


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## moday (Mar 28, 2008)

Not sure what the Fumigillan Part B is for Nosema critters.....

I'll have to investigate but is that too late for now? I did use the Mite Away strip....Honestly, I was not sure if it was a I or II but it was some strong formic acid. The bee supply had them in separate bags so you could buy individuals (I have just one hive right now) and not have a whole mess of them.

What about re-queen? Can I skip that step if hive is strong? I've had hives last two years (never 3) and always kind of wrote it off to cold MI winters.

thanks, MODAY


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

I can't remember what year it was off the top of my head but we in Michigan were hit hard by a new to Michigan Nosema, {Creana} Nobody knew what it was and it was raising havoc with our bees. We lost over 60% and half the remaining 40% were sick and dying. A friend near by running 500 colonies suffered worse 86% lost and pretty sick. He contacted one of his friends in Canada who said they knew what he had going on and put him in touch with Guelph University in Canada. They gave him a treatment recipe to save our remaining bees and another treatment to prevent it. Fumigillan part B a fall treatment and again in the spring before the flows start.

A link from UC Davis 

http://entomology.ucdavis.edu/files/147621.pdf



As for the queen if she is laying real well in May I would wait and requeen in August by labor day at the latest if your going to buy a queen.

 Al


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## Terri (May 10, 2002)

I, too, have trouble finding queens. I generally have to be satisfied by checking the brood. A good brood pattern means a strong queen. 

I like to feed in February so that I have a lot of brood by March. Having a lot of brood in March means that I will have strong hives when the trees bloom in April.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

there are ways to make finding the queen easier. Been doing it for years and some times still have a problem mostly with the all black Carnolions.





Also what some will tell you the queen will never be on honey is full of it.

IF I really need to find the queen *per bosses orders*. I set up a bottom board empty deep next to the hive I am searching in. Pull one frame at a time and look at both sides ends and bottom then set it in the new set up. 
Continue till I find her, many times the very last frame # 20.



I have even a time or two had to start putting them back in the original hive set up. 

The Karenoloins with there brighter yellow are easier to find.

 Al


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## moday (Mar 28, 2008)

I've seen the ladies buzzing about the 50-60F days we've have lately. I am trying to get a better idea about this Fumigillan Part B (sp?). My bee supply sells it but the guy didn't know much about it. I'm looking to understand if I should wait until I check out the hive in a month or go ahead and buy it and feed it in sugar water. If I need to feed, at what rate and for how many feedings?

I've got some Terramycin from few years ago, but that isn't for Nosema that I know of...Thought that was for a mite.

Please advise. If it's a for sure that I need it, the guy said a small amount is in a powder form for like $30. Sound right?
Thanks in advance, Moday


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

We treat in the spring in syrup, follow the instructions to a 
T as it is temptures sensitive. We will again treat in the fall in syrup again follow the instructions to a T because of the temptures sensitive of it.

You can read this and learn a little about it.

http://entomology.ucdavis.edu/files/147621.pdf


 Al


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## moday (Mar 28, 2008)

The PDF file didn't say much about the use of Fumigilin Part B. Any idea on the dosage rate? I use a 2:1 sugar feeder right now and my bee supply house says they carry a $30 small quantity of the drug. They are more of a supplier than a user so they could not recommend a dosage....

Does that sound like the right price and I'm in SE Michigan so I'd better do this now as you want it before the honey flow is what I'm gathering from reading. I'm going to go do another internet search and see what else is out there on the topic.

thanks and I appreciate any responses. MODAY


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Instructions come with the product. You have plenty of time because it is temptures sensitive to work. Off the top of my head I say 60F minim and 90F maximum range. 
Price seems about right to me.

 Al


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