# Fencing: post size and distance apart?



## rootsong (Jun 22, 2008)

I'm in the planning stages for goat fencing. I'm thinking of using those solid panels of fence that I believe are called hog panels? The 16 foot long panels, they can't be rolled up. If I want to make 32' by 16' enclosure, can anyone advise me on what sort of posts I should use and how far apart should I put them? I plan to cement the posts in. 

Thanks for any help!


----------



## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

You'd most likely come out cheaper buying a roll of wire, but the post spacing for panels needs to be 8 feet


----------



## secuono (Sep 28, 2011)

You're talking about cattle panels. Hog panels are short, too short for goats. And if you have baby goats, you will need the small hole panels or they will just pop out and leave.

Roll of woven field fence is much, much cheaper. They have different heights, hole size and gauge of the wire. 

Do the corners properly and then you can use heavy duty metal posts or wood posts, every 8-10ft. For the 16ft panels, one on each corner and then one in the middle, since they will flop around enough for a goat to spring up and over it.


----------



## SJSFarm (Jun 13, 2012)

I'd like to know the answer as well. I used the goat fencing on 4x4s placed 12' apart and using high tension at the top and bottom only to keep it tight. 

But, should I ever have to do it again, I may decide to go the cattle panel route with tposts. 
For the property I just did, doing it again- and the fencing cost alone- 2000' of goat fence would cost me $1800 and the panels would be $2500. Depending upon the cost of the posts (tposts with corner posts of wood in concrete vs all wood with concrete). I think putting up the panels is easier than the goat fencing and does not require stretching.
The price difference may very well be worth the price to pay for not having to deal with the hassle of stretching and hauling the rolls! 

Soooo... What is a good distance for post placement? 
Thanks all


----------



## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

What are you planning on putting in that pen? Awfully small except for maybe a dry lot, which is fine if that's your goal. 

If sturdy is your goal, putting a t-post at the end and middle of every panel is sufficient. I wouldn't cement them in, no need - and allows you to have some versatility. If you ever decide to expand or move the pen (suggested), then it's easily doable.

Most of ours just have a post at the end of every panel, not one in the middle. We space t-posts about the same for field fence IIRC... been a few years since I ran a line of that personally.


----------



## hihobaron (Oct 5, 2015)

Hello All
I like to use 16 foot Cattle Panels with steel T post Post at each join spot and one in the middle.
They make them with a smaller mesh at the bottom than the top or you can get "Goat" panels that have a 4 X 4 mesh and are the same height. $$$
Same Post spacing.
Invest in a Post Puller, $40 or so at TSC it works better than a tractor with loader.
Happy Trails
hihobaron


----------



## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

We use a T post every 8 feet.
Make sure your posts are about a foot taller than the panels and run a hot wire above them.


----------



## rootsong (Jun 22, 2008)

Thank you all! You've been a big help.

MyGoat, you're right about the size. We decided to make it bigger. Using those 16' panels it should end up being 48' by 32' . 

You know, I've shopped and shopped around locally and online and can barely find any panels with smaller than 8" by 6" squares in them. And when I do find them they cost several times more! It's crazy! There's a local store with panels 16' long with 8" by 6" squares in them for $19.75 a piece. I'm thinking I'll go with those and add some rolled wire at the bottom if the kids getting out becomes a big ol' problem.

I'm thinking I'll put cemented wood posts every 16', with a t-post in between. I hope that'll be good? And I wonder if I can get away with the same for the buck's quarters as well...?? 

Researching goat fencing is so complicated! There are sooo many different opinions. I just hope I can make it work well for us!  (We've got an orchard and large garden that needs to stay goat free!!)


----------



## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

cemented wood posts every 16 feet is quite a bit of extra work (and expense) that doesn't really need to be done.
With panels there is no tension so even wood on the corners isn't really needed.


----------



## motdaugrnds (Jul 3, 2002)

I can tell you what I did and why; and that may help you decide.

The pen I wanted at the time was to house large Nubian bucks so they could not get out to breed my large Nubian does anytime they wanted. Since they are hard on fencing, I used those 16' cow panels and wooden posts buried 2-3 ft into "hard" soil. I did concrete them in "after" setting the post in the hole by simply pouring "dry" concrete in and around and then stabilizing the posts with rock until they set. Only after they set did I attach the cow panels. I set these posts at 7' intervals...yes seven feet.

The cow panels were laid "inside" the pen area (to keep the bucks *inside*) and overlapped each other a little. Where they overlapped, I put a little metal piece (forgot what it is called) "U" shaped with little bolts that are specifically designed to connect metal panels like I was using. Nothing can disconnect those panels except tools a human would use to remove those little metal thingies.

I used "barbed" staples to connect the cow panels to the fencing posts; then I added treated 2x6 boards "horizontally" completely around that fence on the "inside" about 2' up and another about 3-1/2' up. The lower was for the goats to stand on and the higher one was to prevent the goats from using the fence as a scratching post. (This kept the 250 lb bucks from breaking down the cow panels where they were welded.) For years this worked real well, giving the bucks access to great browsing in the back acreage while keeping them from the does in the front acreage.

I did the same thing to another fence up at the main barn only I placed the panels on the "outside" of that pen to keep the bucks *out*. This worked beautifully. ROFL (For the last few years I've been letting "one" herd buck run with the 3-4 does I keep all year round; so have absolutely no need for such a fortified pen now.) ROFL (May take that buck pen apart and use it for vines in my vinyard or a raised garden bed.) ROFL


----------



## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

I would use wooden posts every 24' and heavy duty tposts every 8'. No concrete.
And I would just use 4' tall woven wire 4"x4". I might run a strand of hot wire inside if there are mean goats inside LOL

If you insist cattle panels then I would put tposts every 8'. And run hot wire inside if there are mean goats inside.

Just one thing if your goats are horned it is highly likely some might get stuck in the cattle panel.


----------



## marusempai (Sep 16, 2007)

boerboy said:


> I would use wooden posts every 24' and heavy duty tposts every 8'. No concrete.


This is how we're building our new buck pen - one question though - how do you connect the T-posts to the fencing? I just realized T-posts (or at least mine) don't have little hooks for the fence to click into like U-posts do, they just have nubs. Other than that, the pen is looking like Goat Fort Knox. I'm going to run electric around the top and at mid-height, too. Hopefully there will be no unauthorized field trips this fall. :bash:


----------



## hihobaron (Oct 5, 2015)

marusempai
Hello 
RE:Steel T Post identification.
#1 If the have steel "Hooks" on them they are just "Light Duty" Only good for "Garden or decorative fence. Goats with bend them right over they are only stamped sheet metal.
#2 If they have "Nubs" on them they are a forged Steel Post "Heavy Duty" Good One's.
#3 When you buy a "Bundle" 5 Post you should get a bag of fasteners with them usually 25 per bag (Figured for 5 stands of wire per post in the bundle) They will work well to attach cattle panel to the t-post as well. A lot of times people don't know or do not need them for "Their" application and there is always a surplus were you by the post, if you ask you can get a few extra bags for free.  
I have worked in Hardware Stores and had buckets of left behind fasteners.
Then you add electric Bi-Polar Fence on Stand Off insulators and you have Buck Goat proof fence.
Happy Easter
hihobaron Pete and Sam


----------



## marusempai (Sep 16, 2007)

Nifty! I knew the posts I had were the "heavy duty" kind - because I had them laying around, and the neighbor was over, and he basically said "why don't you use those every other post, those are heavy duty and will do the job just fine." So I've never actually seen them at the store. XD I will see what I can find for fasteners - I've got it held together with zip ties in the mean time, just to make sure it was tight and snug I figured I should hold it with something during construction. All done except the electric, and then it will be solid as a rock, I hope!


----------



## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

You just cut pieces of wire and twist them around the post and panel. I use 3 pieces 
per post.
Makes it a lot easier when you have 2 panels at the post.
We've successfully kept holstein steers behind just t-posts and panels with a bit of electric on top.
http://sefsufficient.com/archives/all.jpg


----------



## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

marusempai said:


> how do you connect the T-posts to the fencing?


There are tpost clips you could buy. I get them for free from wilco when I but tposts from them. For each tpost they give five clips.

However you could use any strong wire.

If you don't have a splicing tool buy one. It costs less than $5 but does great job.

The clip and the splicing tool









How the wire is tired to the tpost 









From the second picture you can understand how the ridges in the tpost and the clip together holds the wire from being pulled down when a goat tries to climb the fence. It is important that the clip is tightly tied. Not just hooked. The clip is lose since it gives room for couple of different thickness tposts.

Hope that helps


----------



## shaky6 (May 15, 2015)

I feel that electric fencing for large areas is the way to go, but for your small area why not just set up a chain link fence? Have that supplemented with a hot wire or two. I have a few cattle panels and I use them as gates mostly. I think they're unsightly, as its hard to get or keep one really nice and straight. They tend to have a wrinkle in them and a wave if you don't install them very rigidly. And they don't like uneven ground because they are not flexible over changing terrain. I'm just not a big fan unless I need them for a temporary situation.


----------



## hihobaron (Oct 5, 2015)

Hello All
For a small area go cattle Panels on good steel post with Bi-Polar electric web tape on stand off insulators, one strand on the top the other about 16 inches off the ground. It serves 2 uses keeps the goats off the fence and will provide a "Shocking Experience" for people that want to "Entice" the goats up to the fence. Or any livestock were there is public exposure.
Parmark Mag 12/ 12 volt DC , American Made 6 joule 7000 volts on line.
Runs for a month on a standard Garden Tractor battery ,longer if you put a solar panel battery maintainer on it. I use 8 foot on center post spacing and the wire ties one of the other people here showed are the best way to go for a long term fence.
The person that suggested "Chain Link Fence" must have more money than brains.
Chain Link is about the most "Expensive way you can go" Goats get hung up in it Horns get snagged and the goat hangs to death. 
Plain bi-polar with a hot charge on it is the most economical way to go for "Adult" goats.
Kids are a whole different story. They are the original "Escape Artist" 
Socialize your goats from the start, keep them well fed and 3/4's of your fence problems are solved. A well socialized goat is better than a dog for sticking around you. I work with Pack Goats and even after a hard hike they hang out with me with NO fence. Been known to trip over one when out on night check outside the tent door. I do not doubt if they could they would be inside the tent. 
Happy Trails 
hihobaron


----------



## Dorioakes (Jan 4, 2016)

45=/- experience chasing goats and kids. Semi tongue-in-cheek... Use the tallest T-post you can afford, one post every 6 feet is better for posts alternate sides (one faces in the next pole faces out) when attaching fence for best results. There is no known "rolled" fencing that will hold the goats weight under daily abuse situations only heavy duty cattle feed lot panels will work long tern. Even those will need periodic replacement. Attach 3 ft field fencing to the bottom and bury it. In buck pens ALWAYS have another row of field fencing (rolled fencing)on top making your fence a minimum of 8 feet. :bash:


----------



## shaky6 (May 15, 2015)

Do that ^ if you want to break the bank and start off hating goats from the beginning. That much fence work will change your mind in a heartbeat. Burying field fence? I've never heard of that. A properly tensioned field fence with 8 foot post spacing will not come up of the ground enough to let any goat squeeze under.


----------



## shaky6 (May 15, 2015)

. This keeps my goats in with an excellent track record.


----------



## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

shaky6 said:


> Cattle panels don't like uneven ground because they are not flexible over changing terrain


This is a great point. I just realized why I always preferred horse no-climb (2"x4" hole) wire and goat wire (4"x4" hole) instead of cattle panels. Also my secure perimeter runs 700 feet long. And my property fence runs 2400 feet.

I too use cattle panels as gates, and to form kidding pens (mygoat's idea).


----------



## hihobaron (Oct 5, 2015)

Hello All
Fencing in goats.
Here is one other option IF you don't have to many goats.
I used this system while working with NFS using goats in the brush for fire/under story control.
No post at all and it worked under very "primitive conditions."
25 goats 2 horses, 1 pack mule.
5-10 miles from the nearest even fire road. 
Radio shock collars like Underground dog Fence. But high output.
Set up; string the transmitter wire over the brush on the boundary each goat had a collar that "Alerted" at 5 feet and then shocked at 2 feet from the transmitter wire. 
I always marked wire with construction ribbon (I prefer Orange).Visual Training.
We had to camp about every 2 weeks pull down all the gear and pack the mule and one horse,ride the saddle horse to the next site reset everything Goats were used to "Trailing" with the horses. We have a similar situation here now.Welch cob pony in with 7 Saanins 2 LGD's and 9 kids (All Bucklings) Afternoon nap time they all gather under a big pine tree in the middle of the pasture with the pony on guard duty and the LGD,s on standby. 
Happy Trails
hihobaron and the Troops in South Carolina


----------



## SJSFarm (Jun 13, 2012)

I need to apologize for sounding like a jerk! My post #4
I just now reread this and the answer to the initial question was right there above my obnoxious post! 

Sorry all!


----------

