# Bought Used Truck, Got Scammed



## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

So, I drove to New York on Wednesday night and bought a used truck. I had a 2011 RAM 1500, but I sold it in August because I didn't like making large payments on a second vehicle. I bought a 2002 RAM 1500 for $7,500. The truck seemed to be in great condition. There is no visible rust on it, no stains or wear marks on the upholstery, and it runs great. I did the five hour drive back from New York and felt happy and satisfied the whole way home. Then I took it to get it inspected and that all changed.

It turns out that the truck has all of the following problems, and I am quoting from the inspection report:

Needs both front outer tie rod ends
Needs right front wheel bearing
Needs left inner tie rod end
Frame is badly rusted on left side behind cab and in front of gas tank

I haven't been able to get it in to anywhere to get it looked at, because the inspection station said that they don't do the kind of work that it needs and no one is open on the weekend. The thing that concerns me most is the rusted frame. The rust hole is about six inches long and an inch wide. It is on one of the rails that go across the whole vehicle from front to back down the middle. Does anyone have experience with this type of issue?

I am beating myself up over it. I bought the car without having a mechanic look at it because it passed New York state inspection a month ago. I called the shop that inspected it (I was given all of the maintenance records for the truck from the time that it was brand new until present) and the owner wasn't there, so they told me to call back on Monday. I called the guy who sold me the truck and tried to talk to him about it, but he denied all knowledge of any of the issues and kept repeating that it was inspected a month ago and came back with no issues at all. I have no idea how much the repairs are going to cost me, but I bet it is going to be thousands of dollars. 

The seller did not mention anything about the condition of the vehicle in the bill of sale, and on his craigslist ad he specifically said "you will not find a better truck period," which I think constitutes a guarantee as to the condition of the truck. For that reason, I am strongly considering lawyering up and trying to sue him over it. The only thing that could prevent me from doing that would be if it turned out that these are minor issues and that I am blowing them out of proportion, but I don't think that is going to happen.

Any thoughts, advice, or even a pat on the back would be welcome. :bash:


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

I hate to say this, but I wouldn't say you were scammed... I'd say you should have had it inspected if you didn't know what to look at... When buying anything used, it's buyer beware... 

The seller may not have known it had problems. Especially if it was a used dealer... 

When I buy a vehicle I crawl all over the thing. I grab everything I can and shake, pull push and even hammer on it with my fist.. I take a knife and poke at places on the frame or body if there's any rust... I've walked away from quite a few vehicles because they had similar problems you describe.

When you buy used, you never know what you're inheriting, so you really have to be careful and look closely

As far as the repairs, having tie rod ends replaces aren't going to run you that much... The rust on the fram is another game though... how bad is it? is it through the metal, or just surface rust?

When buying a used vehicle there is no such thing as guarantee, unless you buy a warranty, and even then, those are weak. They also do not have to have to tell you about any problems they know about.. It really is buyer beware. A lawyer is going to tell you the same thing and probably won't even consider taking your money...


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## DaleK (Sep 23, 2004)

You MAY have an issue with the shop that inspected it in NY. Otherwise I think you're SOL. $7,500 for an 02 is overpriced to begin with, to drop that based on cosmetics is crazy. Who drove it home from NY? None of the above is hugely expensive except possibly the frame but should have been at least somewhat noticeable on a longer drive.


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

Fair enough. I realize that I made a huge mistake here and that it is ultimately my fault for buying the vehicle. I bought it private party from someone's front yard, not a dealer of any kind. I checked for absolutely everything other than structural issues. I wrongly assumed that a truck that was inspected a month ago wouldn't be riddled with structural issues. After all, these aren't the type of issues that develop in a month, right? Now I'm just trying to figure out what to do about it.


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

DaleK said:


> You MAY have an issue with the shop that inspected it in NY. Otherwise I think you're SOL. $7,500 for an 02 is overpriced to begin with, to drop that based on cosmetics is crazy. Who drove it home from NY? None of the above is hugely expensive except possibly the frame but should have been at least somewhat noticeable on a longer drive.


I drove it home. It wasn't noticable at all to be honest with you. Even now, driving it to and from the shop, it drives perfectly fine. In fact, one of my first impressions was that it seems to drive better than my 2011 did. $7,500 is its KBB value, and I didn't even get to count all of the extras that it has because KBB doesn't calculate the added value of a cap, etc.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

You can never rely on an inspection sticker.. there are many shops out there that will look the other way for a friend or a few dollars... I'd get it fixed and move on. The problems you are talking about are common wear items. We recently had some of what you described replaced on our car. We are the original owners, and at 100K you just have to take care of those things...


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

My fear is that a rusty hole in the frame is an indicator that the truck isn't long for this world. I don't mind putting the work into it, because it is a really nice truck, but I don't want to put all of this work into it only to have it rust into oblivion a year down the road. You know what I mean?

Trust me though, I realize that I made an epic mistake. It was an important learning experience about trust and assumptions.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

I just replaced ball joints on my truck, almost 300,000 miles and 13 years old.
Just the cost of owning one, no big deal a few hundred dollars. Tie rods shouldn't be that expensive either. If you didn't notice anything in the front end driving it, and there isn't an unusual wear pattern on the front tires, chances are it ain't that bad, fix it when you have the time and money.
If the frame is rusted bad, then see a welder about building it back up, if not, let it go.
I have to say I agree with the comment that you paid too much to begin with, so I wouldn't dwell on this little problem now.


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## MichaelZ (May 21, 2013)

All of what you state is perfectly normal wear on that age truck. And it would not be noticeable to either you or the seller. The only thing here is that you maybe could have gotten it for a thousand less if you had taken it in for inspection before buying. Everything but the rust could be fixed in a shop for under $1000 total I think. 

By us, a truck of that age with that little rust would be unheard of! I can speak from experience, rust will not affect run-ability. EDIT: I see it is frame rust - you will want that repaired. I can not see it being that severe if the rest of the truck is in good shape. Vehicles by us can get so rusted in body and frame that they are no longer safe, but generally that type of vehicle is nothing but a rusted out shell.


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

I think I paid too much in light of the problems it has, but if the truck was in excellent condition is KBBed at $8,200 private party value. It is a 2002 Quad Cab Dodge Ram SLT with a 5.9L engine, running boards, a matching cap, 4x4, remote start, leather, and every additional feature that was available in 2002. I wish I had thought to look for frame rust before I bought the vehicle.

Mind if I ask how much it cost you to replace the ball joints?


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Can you get a picture of the rust? I'm sure it's fixable Even if you need to weld in a new piece of metal... I've repaired rusted frames before. Not really much to it so long as it's not bent....

Also, when buying a vehicle, check the NADA value too.. it is usually a lot different than KBB... Most banks use NADA for value over KBB.


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

Yah, the only problem is that I live in a state that has mandatory annual inspections. I can't legally drive this truck until I fix all of these problems. I am currently on a 10 day grace period because it failed inspection, but after that 10 days I can't use it again until it is fixed. There is a hefty fine if I get pulled over without an inspection sticker on it. I can afford to put a couple thousand into it, I just hope that it doesn't rust out completely a year from now.


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

Sure. I will try to get a picture of it. Give me about a half an hour. I am going to have to climb underneath it and my driveway has about 1/2 an inch of ice on it.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

I'm not sure what's involved pulling the bed off that truck. I can pull the one on my Chevy in less than an hour. Pull the bed, get some rust reformer and go to work. Check to see if the hole is simply one that existed before and is just enlarged. Light truck frames aren't high strength steel so welding a reinforcing plate on isn't a big issue if necessary.

Pulling the bed makes repairs easy and allows you to easily check the frame.

How much do you trust the inspection garage? On second thought, if the front AND back tires are worn uniformly, I'd take the truck to someone else for a another look. Make sure the front tires weren't rotated to the back. Is there a chance the shop is trying to jam you up and make some quick money?


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Figure a couple 3 hundred for the ball joints and alignment... Maybe another two hundred for the bearing with labor.. the rust is a different game.. need to see what it looks like first.


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## Roadking (Oct 8, 2009)

In PA, inspection stations (garages) frown heavily on welding to the frame. You will probably have to box out the section of the frame.

Matt


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Yep.. most places don't like it, but a good welder can make it look like nothing was done other than some paint added..


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## davel745 (Feb 2, 2009)

to me the clue that you overlooked is 
The seller did not mention anything about the condition of the vehicle in the bill of sale, and on his craigslist ad he specifically said "you will not find a better truck period," which I think constitutes a guarantee as to the condition of the truck.

Didn't someone just say something similar about something they were selling. 
I am sorry for your troubles but it may not be as bad as you think.


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## AdmiralD7S (Nov 1, 2013)

Keep in mind that prices vary based on location, OEM vs aftermarket, etc, but here we go:

Tie rod ends (2 outers and 1 inner): $120
Wheel hub bearing: $100
Labor to install above: ~$200
Front end alignment: $100

I can't do body/metal work, so you'll need to look to others for that. If you did your own labor to install the tie rod ends and wheel bearing hub assembly, I could do mine in a day...figure a weekend and lots of YouTube if you've not done them before to any vehicle. If you're not mechanically inclined, do NOT do the wheel bearing...you'll be having the mechanic make a house call


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## bluefish (Jan 27, 2006)

Totally not helpful to the subject being addressed, but wow! I can't believe the inspection stuff you all have to go through back there! Here, that truck with only the issues listed would be a smokin' deal and could be fixed as and when/if you wanted.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

Ball joints was $350.00 I think $250 of that was parts.
My mechanic is good, fast and I can make payments, so it was worth it to me not to cuss all weekend, lol.


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## Guest (Jan 12, 2014)

Frame rust is a serious issue . I know someone who bought a nice looking truck & later found frame rust . He continued driving it until it broke on him going down the road . I would take it to a competent welding shop & get the lowdown on whether or not it's something that can be reasonably repaired .
If the rust issues can be taken care of I wouldn't consider the other repairs a major deal to have repaired .


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## dirtman (Sep 15, 2011)

Isn't you state motto something like live free or die? Michigan is pretty screwed up but at least we don't have anyone telling us we can't weld a frame. It's really no big deal to patch a frame and make it stronger than new. I've done plenty of them when I was building mud trucks.


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

Yah, "Live Free or Die" is our state motto. Over the years, it has become less and less integral to how our state is run. I have absolutely no use for vehicle inspections, but I still have to get them done.


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## Guest (Jan 12, 2014)

We have state vehicle inspections here in WV . I see it as a good thing if properly done . Problem is too many inspection stations pass unsafe vehicles that never should have passed . 
A properly inspected vehicle will not have worn out brakes , worn out steering components , rusted out frames , etc .


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## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

If you drove it for 5 hr and did not find any of the steering funny, and did not have to herd it down the road, (you will understand if you driven trucks/cars with really wore out suspension and steering boxes),

I would get the wheel bearing repacked and tightened, (many times IMO a DIY your self job), jack up the axel and get the wheel off the ground and see how wore out he tie rod ends are, if the bearing is good (regreased and properly tightened) you could try a different inspection station and see if it passes, if you think the tie rod ends are bad that is not a hard job normally one may need a few tools tho, I have seen some shop claim things were wore out and needed replaced for a job, and then I have seen some shops that would have let the end fall off, and not fixed it, like I said jack up the axel and leave the tires off the ground and turn the wheels with hands at the 3 and 9 position and one can then have a helper, or vise versa one can put you finger on the ball joints in question and feel how much movement there is, normally you will have the two out side ones and one on the pitman arm, (steering box) if there worn replace or grease, it may take some of the play out, 

I would not say you got scammed you bought a used truck, 

I do not know what the statement is today but a number of years ago, 

it was said 10 to 20 years ago, plan on spending at least $600 to $1000, to bring most used cars/trucks up to your desired state of repair, 

all most with out fail they will need some thing, either general maintance, (as your needs) to new tires, brakes, hoses, belts, battery, starter, alternator, and so on, many times it is a problem that is a sensor or other that has plagued the truck/carl for years, 

Used mains it was used, and using some wears it, I would say if that is all it needs is a few tie rod ends, and wheel bearing adjusted, and greased, (I would do the other side while I was doing it), I would say you got a good used truck, 

as far as rust, (since I have no idea on what that means), to a discoloration, to rotted out, that may be where a little more may be needed, but then it may not be much of a issue either, or it may need a rebuild, in that area, 

enjoy your new/used truck


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

A friend bought a Dodge pickup that had a more severe frame rust problem. He found a donor for the frame. Not sure if he fixed his yet.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

So after this, it looks like tonight I'm checking the front wheel bearing on my Ram 1500 tonight... I think it went out Saturday.

I had been hearing a squeak, but I thought it was the squealer on the brake.. Saturday I hear a sudden loud grinding like gear teeth being broken off, but the tranny seemed fine and not slipping or missing a beat.. I think I heard the cage come apart in the bearing. When turning the wheel it feels kinda strange.. 

On these, you can replace the bearings, if you have a press to do it, but for what you can buy the whole hub for, you're better off to replace the complete hub assembly.


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## Molly Mckee (Jul 8, 2006)

Are you sure which inspection place is wrong? If all that front end work needs to be done, you should be able to feel it.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Find out first before you start worrying. Take it to a autobody shop and have them look and get an estimate for the frame. The rest are all wear parts. Go from there and come back and let us know and get advice, so we all can be informed consumers....James


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## swamp man (Dec 25, 2005)

Scammed?....only in the sense that you bought a Dogde. They are notoriously weak in the front end. For a few hundred, you can probably get the parts, rent the tools, and knock the job off yourself.
....then sell that dungpile and get a Chevy.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

So instead of a weak front end, you get issues like weak fuel pump that needs replacing once you're left on the side of the road... If not the pump, then it's the fuel pressure regulator... Um.. door handles that could be better... The water pumps are kinda weak too... leaking door seals.. Many have cold start piston slap.... Chevy's also rattle more than Dodge after a while.. 

All brands have their issues...


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## Guest (Jan 13, 2014)

Ford has had the # 1 best selling truck for 37 straight years . That should tell you something . Dodge's are infamous for wearing out front end parts & frame rust & on a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rusting . That being said I have 2 Nissan 4X4's & they both have been great so far .


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

My truck is currently at a body shop. They were supposed to look at it today but they got backed up. I should know tomorrow what the situation is. I was unable to get underneath it and get a picture of the rust spot due to all of the ice on my driveway. I'm hoping it's going to be a moderate fix. 

I drove it to the body shop before work this morning and I tried to notice any front end issues. It drives really well and I really couldn't notice anything at all. I would wager that it drives better than the 2011 Ram 1500 that I sold in August, which is saying a lot because that was an incredibly nice truck.

I'll update again with what it cost and how the situation turns out in a couple of days, just for general info.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Well wasn't it so fantastic this thread came up to make ME do all this to my truck now... DANG IT.... 

I just got back from buying the hubs... To the OP, Oh man are you in for an expensive endeavor if you can't do the work yourself.. 

I got home from work to check the noise I heard this weekend.. both front hubs are bad.. I can bump the left side a good 1/2". The right side is just starting to go and has a small bump in it.

The hubs ran me $490... Yes, I can buy cheap hubs, but you also have to drill and tap a hole on those to mount your old ABS sensor... and how long is that cheap hub going to last you? I ain't doing this again so bought quality parts.

I also need to get the lower ball joints and wouldn't you know the kind I have are the ones that are riveted to the lower control arm.... The parts store doesn't have the kits that you grind out the rivets and bolt them in, and they don' have the whole lower control arm assemblies... SO.. of I go to find some to order and have over nighted.

Guess I take off work Friday and start early... We plan to take the truck to WV this weekend.

When it rains....


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

Ouch! I hope you get it fixed in time for your trip.

There's very little chance that I will be able to do the work myself, so I am going to be stuck sinking lots of money into the truck. Hopefully after all of the work it will remain structurally sound for 4 or 5 years so that it isn't all a waste.


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## Guest (Jan 14, 2014)

simi-steading said:


> Well wasn't it so fantastic this thread came up to make ME do all this to my truck now... DANG IT....
> 
> I just got back from buying the hubs... To the OP, Oh man are you in for an expensive endeavor if you can't do the work yourself..
> 
> ...


Can you order the ball joints that bolt in after you remove the factory rivets or do you have to buy the whole assembly ?


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

I'm actually considering getting the frame fixed and then taking it to a different shop for another inspection. I took it to a major chain, so I wonder if they are just being nitpicky. I just don't want to waste another $40 for them to just tell me the exact same things. I'm asked the body shop take a look at the issues listed on the inspection report and they told me that they would, so maybe I will do that if they come back with a different answer than the chain store.


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## Wis Bang 2 (Jan 12, 2010)

farminghandyman said:


> I would get the wheel bearing repacked and tightened, (many times IMO a DIY your self job), jack up the axel and get the wheel off the ground and see how wore out he tie rod ends are, if the bearing is good (regreased and properly tightened) you could try a different inspection station and see if it passes, if you think the tie rod ends are bad that is not a hard job normally one may need a few tools tho, I have seen some shop claim things were wore out and needed replaced for a job, and then I have seen some shops that would have let the end fall off, and not fixed it, like I said jack up the axel and leave the tires off the ground and turn the wheels with hands at the 3 and 9 position and one can then have a helper, or vise versa one can put you finger on the ball joints in question and feel how much movement there is, normally you will have the two out side ones and one on the pitman arm, (steering box) if there worn replace or grease, it may take some of the play out,
> 
> I would not say you got scammed you bought a used truck,


Most manufacturers use 'lubed 4 life' sealed wheel bearings now. Can't re-pack and tighten any longer. When they fail, you can take out the brake caliper and rotor real quick and heat up the outer CV joint so you need a bunch of parts in addition to the wheel bearing.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

WV Hillbilly said:


> Can you order the ball joints that bolt in after you remove the factory rivets or do you have to buy the whole assembly ?


I just went out and looked at it again... They are pressed in.. they press into the mount that is riveted to the end of the lower control arm.. 

NOT gonna be fun with all the rust on them.. plus I'm going to have to get a press kit to do it.. another $75 or so..


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Wis Bang 2 said:


> Most manufacturers use 'lubed 4 life' sealed wheel bearings now. Can't re-pack and tighten any longer. When they fail, you can take out the brake caliper and rotor real quick and heat up the outer CV joint so you need a bunch of parts in addition to the wheel bearing.


Thankfully mine's 2 wheel drive.. a little easier than having to beat out the axle..

Well.. I don't know about thankfully.. When I bought this I was buying more truck than I needed with it even being 2 wheel.. now I really need a 4 wheel.. 

On the plus side... I make my last payment in about two weeks... Guess that's why it's breaking now.. LOL..


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## Guest (Jan 14, 2014)

Sounds like the ideal time to swap for a 4X4 .


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Can't afford it... We're looking for a jeep to trade my wife's car and a motorcycle for without taking on a payment. We want to move out of here in July debt free..


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

Debt free is an awesome goal. It's going to be a decade or more before my wife and I are debt free. I'm hoping that I get good news about my truck today!


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Hope it's good news... You said you took it to a big box store it sounded like? If that's the case, then no telling what they are wrong about. They are all about raking in money any way they can in their shops.

I saw last night at Pep Boys when I went to buy the wheel hubs... They cost $119, but installed they were $349 each.. low quality hubs and a couple hundred each to install... 

We'll still have our mortgage, but all we have left to pay off is a little on one of the motorcycles and a credit card... If we won't be debt free short of the mortgage, we'll be really really close..


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

V-NH said:


> I'm actually considering getting the frame fixed and then taking it to a different shop for another inspection. I took it to a major chain, so I wonder if they are just being nitpicky. I just don't want to waste another $40 for them to just tell me the exact same things. I'm asked the body shop take a look at the issues listed on the inspection report and they told me that they would, so maybe I will do that if they come back with a different answer than the chain store.


I'm still wondering if the shop was trying to rip you. That's why I suggested looking at the tires. Does the truck have the same brand at all positions? Are they different from front to back? If the tires look good, all four are the same with the same wear and it drives good, I have a problem understanding how the whole list needs replaced. FWIW, some Dodges are known for problem front ends.


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## topofmountain (Nov 1, 2013)

simi-steading said:


> Can you get a picture of the rust? I'm sure it's fixable Even if you need to weld in a new piece of metal... I've repaired rusted frames before. Not really much to it so long as it's not bent....
> 
> Also, when buying a vehicle, check the NADA value too.. it is usually a lot different than KBB... Most banks use NADA for value over KBB.



The first mistake is KBB & NADA are what dealers & banks use. Try to sell a vehicle to KBB or NADA for what they say it is worth. Try to sell to a dealer for low book without buying a vehicle from them.
What is the mileage & is it 4x4? Or did I miss that in the posts?
Tie Rods are no big deal. The Rust is a very big deal. You might be able to get a good welder to box or re enforce the frame.

Three years ago I bought a 99 Dodge 2500 QC 4x4, V10, 5 speed, with 70,000 original miles from the original owner. A California truck NO RUST AT ALL For $5000 cash. In three years outside of regular servicing, I had to replace an ABS sensor, left rear wheel seal, thermostat, washer bottle.

Sorry to hear you didn't do your homework more carefully. But you SCAMMED yourself.


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

Whew! Harsh, but true.

I got word back from the body shop today. The mechanic said that the rust issue is not a big deal. He said that it is not located near a stress point and that there are no other signs of rust anywhere on the frame, though he admitted that it is hard to tell. He is going to fix the frame for $500. Roughly $100 for the materials and $50/hr for 8 hours of labor.

He also took a look at the whole vehicle and double checked what the inspection station found. He said that it definitely needs the wheel bearing, but that the tie rod ends are fine for another couple of years. He also said that the power steering hoses need to be replaced due to a fluid leak. He's going to take care of all of the mechanical work and weld the frame for $1,104.00. I feel pretty comfortable with that number.

I think that part of what made me feel like I had been scammed was the fact that the inspection station freaked out about the frame rust and told me it was going to be thousands of dollars to fix it. They referred me to a dealer that told me I was looking at a $10,000 job and that the truck was totaled. My wife and I are expecting our first kid at the end of the summer and we actually had it verified by a doctor on the same day that everyone was telling me I bought an unfixable lemon, so this thread was a manifestation of me freaking out. At the end of the day, the mechanic I have working on it said that the issues are not a big deal and that it is a very nice truck that is worth fixing. So, I'm over it.

Thank you all for your honest feedback and suggestions.

Edit: It has 145,000 miles.


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## Roadking (Oct 8, 2009)

At $1100 for 4 or more serviceable years, I'd be okay with that...BUT...as soon as the frame is done, get a few cans of undercoat and "rust stop" from your local auto parts store and spray EVERYTHING but the exhaust...rubberized coatings may get you another few years for under a hundred bucks.
Also, Advance Auto Parts offer free tools for borrow; pay for them and bring them back in 30 days and they refund your money...great for a bearing or steering wheel puller that you really won't use often enough to own.
Good luck with it and congrats on the 2 new additions!

Matt


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

topofmountain said:


> Three years ago I bought a 99 Dodge 2500 QC 4x4, V10, 5 speed, with 70,000 original miles from the original owner. A California truck NO RUST AT ALL For $5000 cash.


I don't know if you've looked at used vehicle prices since then, but prices have soared in the past year. 

They've gone up so much that I am simply stunned.


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## topofmountain (Nov 1, 2013)

clovis said:


> I don't know if you've looked at used vehicle prices since then, but prices have soared in the past year.
> 
> They've gone up so much that I am simply stunned.


I follow prices on a regular basis. I don't buy from dealers. I know this Dodge wasn't bought from a dealer. I learned a long time ago if your going to drive used stuff you have to have a couple of them around so you have a back up.
Last year I bought a 95 F150 SuperCab 4x4 302, 5 speed, 138,000 miles a Nevada truck no rust $2700. Then last month I bought a 99 Crown Vic P71 140,000 miles for $400. 
So my point is you have to do your homework, not be in a hurry, & many times walk away, & continue looking. If you don't have a lot of mechanical experience or you want to know if it is a good deal post it first before you buy it. There are people like me that will be brutally honest.
I didn't mean to sound harsh I apologize if that is how I came across.


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## GoldenCityMuse (Apr 15, 2009)

V-NH said:


> Whew! Harsh, but true.
> 
> I got word back from the body shop today. The mechanic said that the rust issue is not a big deal. He said that it is not located near a stress point and that there are no other signs of rust anywhere on the frame, though he admitted that it is hard to tell. He is going to fix the frame for $500. Roughly $100 for the materials and $50/hr for 8 hours of labor.
> 
> ...


The scam was the 1st inspection station. Can you say 'KickBack'.


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

...And it is still in the shop 10 days later. Very slow turn around time apparently. I called them yesterday and they told me they just finished the welding and would try to get to the other stuff today. I have a project planned (and help scheduled) on Sunday that requires me to move a half a dozen sheets of plywood, several 16' cattle panels, and a lot of eight foot long 2x4s. Strongly considering picking it up from the shop tonight, paying them for what they did, and finding somewhere that will do the rest of the work tomorrow. Ten days is a long time considering what it needs done.


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## V-NH (Jan 1, 2014)

Finally brought the thing home today. It ended up setting me back $1,350 in repairs. It turns out that the original inspection station was wrong about all of the tie rod related issues. They also missed the fact that the entire exhaust system was messed up and needed some serious work to pass inspection. I'm just glad it is all over and I have a functional truck.


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## Wis Bang 2 (Jan 12, 2010)

Roadking said:


> ...BUT...as soon as the frame is done, get a few cans of undercoat and "rust stop" from your local auto parts store and spray EVERYTHING but the exhaust...rubberized coatings may get you another few years for under a hundred bucks.
> Matt


I did that when I bought Dad's '93 Jimmy from Mom. My mechanic neighbor had it in his bosses shop & handed me the cans.

It stayed in the nooks and cranies but I drove a few roads the DCNR opens in deer season and the growth in the center cleaned off the floor pan; especially the area where the rear floor transitions to the folding rear seat but also the underside of the back floor. I sprayed it in Jan and didn't run off road till the following Nov so it had time to set up.

If you are going to be running in weeds and such save the $.$$ and skip any area where the brush and weeds will scrub it off.


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Wis Bang 2 said:


> I did that when I bought Dad's '93 Jimmy from Mom. My mechanic neighbor had it in his bosses shop & handed me the cans.
> 
> It stayed in the nooks and cranies but I drove a few roads the DCNR opens in deer season and the growth in the center cleaned off the floor pan; especially the area where the rear floor transitions to the folding rear seat but also the underside of the back floor. I sprayed it in Jan and didn't run off road till the following Nov so it had time to set up.
> 
> If you are going to be running in weeds and such save the $.$$ and skip any area where the brush and weeds will scrub it off.


Many years ago, when I was much younger, I bought a brand new Lawnboy with a steel deck.

My hope was to make the deck last as long as the engine, so I meticulously sprayed it with a can of undercoating before I mowed with it for the first time.

That undercoating didn't even last through the first 15 minutes of mowing, LOL. Every last bit of it was worn off by the time I was done with the front yard.

I probably won't forget that incident. I was almost dead broke that week after buying the mower, and that can of spray was $6.99. I spent considerable time neatly masking it off, and allowed it to 'cure' for a few days, per the instructions...all for nothing.


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## MichaelZ (May 21, 2013)

Glad to hear it all worked out. Sounds like you ended up with just a slightly less than OK deal. Face it, that age of vehicle will have some repairs, but now you have them all taken care of.


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## Michael W. Smith (Jun 2, 2002)

V-NH said:


> I took it to a major chain, so I wonder if they are just being nitpicky.


Right there is your problem. A chain store inspection station - they have a habit of finding lots of things "wrong" or that need "replaced".

You need to find a small one owner inspection shop and one that is trustworthy.

I bought a used car off a dealership and went back for several years for their "free" inspections. The one year I went in, and was told I needed a new windshield - a stone hit my windshield and put a "spot" in it. The dealership insisted the "spot" was in the line of view - even though it was up higher than my line of view.

I took my car to my regular inspection guy who said the windshield did NOT need replaced because the "spot" was not in the direct line of sight. He did warn me though that it could possibly spread with crack lines due to the heat of summer and cold of winter. I'm still driving it with the same windshield and while the "spot" did get a few small cracks, it hasn't spread any further.


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