# Shed cabin questions



## currinbrandon (May 20, 2014)

I bought one of those prefabricated wodden storage sheds and I'm in the process of turning it into a cabin, but I'm trying to figure out how to insulate the floor.

i presently sits on 1 cinder block high off the ground,so getting under neath i'snt really an option unless I have no other options.

i've looked at rigid board insulation to place ontop of the subfloor then my plywood plank flooring on top of that,but I'm worried that over time the foam will compress in places.

any help or advice is highly appreciated.


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## Forcast (Apr 15, 2014)

what about the rigid board and a wood spacer to raise the top wood floor off the RB?


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## rustyshacklefor (Sep 19, 2005)

You could put down some 2x's like the joists. Then put the rbi in between.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

First cover whole floor with tar paper. Next put 2x4s wide side down with 24 inches between them. Then get 1.5" x 2' x 8' rigid foam board and put in between the 2x4s. Tongue and groove flooring ply on top of that. I'd suggest 3/4" rather than 1/2". Use construction adhesive on the top of the 2x4s to grip the ply to prevent squeaks.

I'm certainly not an expert but this is what I did in my little cabin and it worked.


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## Arkie71 (Mar 23, 2014)

We are planning on doing the same thing with a Derksen cabin. We aren't going to insulate the floors, but will floor it with 1/2" plywood over the base floor, sanded and maybe stained, then polyurethaned. From what I have researched it really isn't required to insulate the floor. These buildings are cheap to heat and cool and even a tiny wood burning stove can be too much in the middle of winter.
We are going to use regular insulation on the walls, with plywood done like the floor put over it. For the ceilings, you don't have an attic, and with cathedral ceilings like those you can use the foam board insulation cut to fit with little 1/2" wood strips nailed to the 2x4's on each side to hold the panels flush against the ceiling. Then panel over them with plywood stained and poly'd. Maybe use a little spray foam in any gaps before paneling the ceiling that way the layer that comprises the roof has no air contact with the inside and will keep it from forming condensation from the warm humid air. 
From what I have been told, insulation under the house can cause more problems than help. Mold and wood rot being a big problem. Heat loss is mostly an upwards phenomenon anyway. Hope this helps. Got some pins that may help and going to add some more when I can find the sites again that deal with these specific things that I researched. http://www.pinterest.com/barmer71/


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## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

put it on a full foundation, so it is not exposed, to the elements , and not on just a few blocks,


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## AVanarts (Jan 2, 2011)

A while back I was looking at some "barn style" sheds at a chain building supply store. The largest listed was 16 by 24 if I recall correctly.

I remember thinking that in my younger days I could have easily lived in one, especially if I could dig out a basement and put it on top. Sleep in the loft, living area on the first floor and storage in the basement.

Some time back I saw a video of a former congressman who showed a cabin that he and his wife had lived in at one time. It was quite similar to what I was thinking of. He had a well with a hand pump in the basement and a water tank in the attic. They would pump water into the tank by hand until some came running down a hose that functioned to drain off overflow. Then they had gravity feed water to their faucets. It wouldn't be much pressure, but it was apparently enough.

I have searched for that video but can't seem to find it any more.


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## cindilu (Jan 27, 2008)

What kind of prefab cabin did you buy? I am in the process of trying to decide how to build and was curious where you found yours?? Also how is the process of building it doing for you? Hard, easy?


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## currinbrandon (May 20, 2014)

Deeply sorry for the absence of not replying,thanks each of you for commenting and giving me advice. I ended up raising it up to 3 blocks high,plan to build a foundation next year,and I went under the cabin and placed the foam board under neath right against the subfloor,and sealed it in with some wood strips and Great Works foam.

As for the rest of the building,I have layed my plywood plank floors end to end then built up my walls for individual rooms,bath and bed, currently running my wiring and plumbing,then will put R-13 batt insulation in the walls. as for my ceiling,a barn style with lofts on either end, I found a YouTube video a guy done of his building and i followed suit for the soffit,mine were built in,to the ridge vent,again built in.I made 1/2inch spacers then attached foam board,sealed with great works, havent gotten the batt insulation for the ceiling yet,but its coming along as money allows,doing all the work myself truly cuts back on the costs,lol.


to the poster above this asking about where I got my building ,I live in West Tennessee and there is a local builder/dealer and I got a "custom" made building from them Superior Buildings INC.

I'm certain there is a dealer near you, may just take a little searching to find one,can try asking around, the cabin is just a modified storage building.


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## JDPugh (Mar 10, 2014)

This is something I have been thinking about as well. I am in central North Carolina and thinking about building a cabin 16' x 24' +/- on some property I own with my sister (67 acres) as a retirement home. There is a 6" drilled well and power on site, but will not perk so composting or sawdust toilet is current plan. Also plan to use wood heat with propane backup. Would like to go solar but they will charge me $35.00 a month just to keep power on so may just use that with small generator backup.

I grew up in a 1500SF brick ranch and during the oil embargo of the 70's we went from oil furnace to a cabinet style (Wood Chief from Lowes I think) wood heater and never went back to oil. The house was built in the 1950's and I think it was insulated with 3" batts overhead only. I can recall many times when the outdoor temp was freezing or below and we had the front door cracked open or windows cracked open to add some cool air and it was still pretty warm.

We do not have that much really cold weather. Given I am building a cabin less that 400 SF it may be smarter to just underpin with good ventilation and forget the floor insulation. R13 in the walls and R21 overhead. Finding a wood stove that is small enough but hold a fire overnight may be the real problem.


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## Cyngbaeld (May 20, 2004)

http://coloradocylinderstoves.com/Alpine-Stove-Package-ALSP-28185g.htm

This is what I'm planning to use to heat the cabin. We have 2 that are 10x16 and I'm planning to get a 12x38 as well. I'll join that one to one of the small cabins and the other will be my studio.


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## currinbrandon (May 20, 2014)

I myself have had bad experience with wood heat,lol,long story,so I'm going with a ac/heat unit,plus with the amount of insulation and its in good shade,plus the floor being done,just to keep cold toes out,my gf's, it should stay fairly warm/cold respectfully...I have "city" water and will be installing a septic system as well,since this is a full residence and building code around here,in my county,is kinda a pain... if I had the space from the cabin Id do a lagoon instead of a septic tank,more environmental and cheaper,lol.


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## TNbear23 (May 31, 2014)

Arkie71 said:


> We are planning on doing the same thing with a Derksen cabin. We aren't going to insulate the floors, but will floor it with 1/2" plywood over the base floor, sanded and maybe stained, then polyurethaned. From what I have researched it really isn't required to insulate the floor. These buildings are cheap to heat and cool and even a tiny wood burning stove can be too much in the middle of winter.
> We are going to use regular insulation on the walls, with plywood done like the floor put over it. For the ceilings, you don't have an attic, and with cathedral ceilings like those you can use the foam board insulation cut to fit with little 1/2" wood strips nailed to the 2x4's on each side to hold the panels flush against the ceiling. Then panel over them with plywood stained and poly'd. Maybe use a little spray foam in any gaps before paneling the ceiling that way the layer that comprises the roof has no air contact with the inside and will keep it from forming condensation from the warm humid air.
> From what I have been told, insulation under the house can cause more problems than help. Mold and wood rot being a big problem. Heat loss is mostly an upwards phenomenon anyway. Hope this helps. Got some pins that may help and going to add some more when I can find the sites again that deal with these specific things that I researched. http://www.pinterest.com/barmer71/


Like you we are doing the same thing with our shed no insulation in the floor. I agree it can be more of a problem. I currently live in a mobile home which has insulation under the floor. Getting under there to fix places where it has fallen over time or an animal has decide it would make a great bed is not fun. We plan on installing laminate wood flooring, with the underlayment then the flooring shouldn't need anything else. Our shed isn't a pre-fab and a bubble wrap insulations with a R6 was insalled under the siding. We are planning to install R13 in the walls and ceiling, givein us a total of R19. That is above the recommendation for our area. Heating and cooling should not be a problem.


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