# Organic honey?



## BobbyB (Apr 6, 2009)

I have seen folks here and there talk about either raising or buying organic honey.

My question is, how can you or any one that keeps bees tell me it is organic when as far as I know there is now way to know for sure what the bees are collecting ?


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## farmerstac (Mar 16, 2005)

It is the way they are managed Here is a web site that goes into details for you.
http://apiservices.com/articles/us/organic_standards.htm


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## BobbyB (Apr 6, 2009)

farmerstac said:


> It is the way they are managed Here is a web site that goes into details for you.
> Apiservices - Beekeeping - Organic Honey Standards An example


Thanks. Interesting stuff there.

the 2 mile flight line would be enough to nullify most folks I would think. I know I couldnt do it here, far too much farm land all around me. 

But it did answer my question.


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## CesumPec (May 20, 2011)

you have to gather the bees all around you and explain that they are not allowed to use herbicides or pesticides.


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## ET1 SS (Oct 22, 2005)

Well now let me see. We deal with: Mites, Nosema, beetle, moth, Foulbrood, Chalk Brood, Stone Brood, Cripaviridae, Dicistroviridae, and Dysentery.

Now you want to be organical too?


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## BobbyB (Apr 6, 2009)

ET1 SS said:


> Well now let me see. We deal with: Mites, Nosema, beetle, moth, Foulbrood, Chalk Brood, Stone Brood, Cripaviridae, Dicistroviridae, and Dysentery.
> 
> Now you want to be organical too?


Hey, I was just asking!


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## ET1 SS (Oct 22, 2005)

I have tried beekeeping for the past eleven years. My hives generally die in the winter or spring. I lost three hives this past spring. So no bees this summer. I have to wait to place an order for replacement bees in November to get them in the spring. If you have hives in November, then you do not order any, but you do not know until spring if your hives will survive.

I keep attending beekeeping workshops, and I try everything organic they suggest to control these diseases and infestations.

The FDA complains that honey imported from China is loaded with antibiotics, so they stop it at the border. But I think that pumping the bees with antibiotics is about the only thing that can get them to successfully survive.


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## tom j (Apr 3, 2009)

I think that pumping the bees with antibiotics is about the only thing that can get them to successfully survive.

this was my 6th year with bees ,, the first 2 springs i had to buy ,, then I found a way that works for me to winter ,, and that is wHAT you have to do ,, try different ways to winter them ,, you will find a way that will work for you ,, 
I never have even used powdered sugar , so you do not always have to use antibiotics


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Mite away quick strips have been approved to control mites and SHB in hives in orginic honey operations. That is a large reason for winter bee lose and starvation is next. 
Tom likes and uses candy bars, we some times use candy boards. Candy board recipes are on the net and found doing a search.

 Al


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## JRHILLS (Oct 27, 2010)

ET1 SS said:


> I lost three hives this past spring. So no bees this summer. I have to wait to place an order for replacement bees in November to get them in the spring.


Suggestion. Stop buying packages of (most likely) bees bred in Georgia and (most likely) loaded with mites. Start with nucs from successful local beekeepers. When they do well in your climate split them and give them a queen from somebody who breeds them for your climate. Try Charles Andros in New Hampshire or Michael Palmer in Vermont.


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## ET1 SS (Oct 22, 2005)

JRHILLS said:


> Suggestion. Stop buying packages of (most likely) bees bred in Georgia and (most likely) loaded with mites.


I would think that Georgia bees would only be good for in Georgia.

I have only bought local.



> ... Start with nucs from successful local beekeepers. When they do well in your climate split them and give them a queen from somebody who breeds them for your climate. Try Charles Andros in New Hampshire or Michael Palmer in Vermont.


If you lived down South, I guess bees from NH or Vt would work; though it was better to stick with bees from up here.



Do you have a big problem with mites?

I have heard folks who say they do get lots of them. I usually put the oil boards underneath so I can monitor how many mites each hive has. I rarely get many mites. The few times that I have seen the mite-load climb I use peppermint to control them.



All beekeepers should stay away from any source that is loaded with mites.



My losses have mostly been from fungal infections. My land is mostly wet.


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