# Wobbly wheel. How to fix?



## RedTartan (May 2, 2006)

I've hit a snag with my new wheel. I got everything on it and started to treadle and it kept throwing off the drive band. I realized that I have loose spokes. I found these instructions for taking apart the hub and re-gluing everything:

http://handspinner.co.uk/how_to_repair_broken_spining_wheel.html

But the hub is solidly together. It seems a shame to take it apart and re-glue.

So then I thought I'd use this stuff:

http://www.westernwooddoctor.com/chairloc.htm

It comes with a syringe that I can stick down next to the spokes. It will cause the wood to swell. It's not glue.

Which should I do? Anyone else fixed a wobbly wheel?

:nanner: Still excited about my new wheel even though she needs some doctoring :grin:


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## Chaty (Apr 4, 2008)

I just used oil on mine and they did fine, some say not to but it worked for mine. I bet the wood has just shrunk and needs a little love to plump it up again.


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

No glue!!!

Especially not epoxy. That swelling stuff is just as bad. If the spoke is loose at the rim a tiny dot of carpenters glue is usually enough. It is really important to allow wood to expand and contract, so the general rule is never glue any pieces that weren't originally a single piece of wood ... Pressure fit, nails (many antique wheels have spokes tacked in with tiny nails) or wood glue that can be dissolved if need be.

First you need to trace the cause of the wobble. Stand at the back and turn the wheel by hand and see what you see. Look at it as it turns: if you lifted one side of the axle a little, would that help? Try tucking a thin bit if leather under one side then the other, try raising one support, etc. Is there a hole in the upright for a retaining pin? Those make a world of difference and they often go missing. A chopstick or golf tee can work in a pinch!

Unless the spokes are so loose they rattle, they aren't your problem (and probably not the main problem even then).

Pictures or video would help lots, if you can do that...


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

Ditto everything Frazzle said. Take pictures of the wheel from all angles, looking down onto the wheel from just above it and the MOA, one from the back looking straight on to the front, and a few from the side. A video would be great so we can watch as the band jumps off. I have a wheel that is warped, the person I bought it from couldn't spin on it because the band kept jumping off. I have never had a problem with it at all.


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## 7thswan (Nov 18, 2008)

The uprights that hold the wheel itself might be loose or cocked. My 30" is very sentive to this,throws the band if it's not perfect. The weather changes(hummity) in the house even affect it.


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## RedTartan (May 2, 2006)

No glue, I promise 

I can't do a video. 

I have looked more closely at it this morning and compared it to my upright. My upright has spacers between the drive wheel and the arms that secure it, so I wrapped some yarn around the bar that goes through the wheel on both sides and that's already much better. It still throws the drive band, but it takes longer.

I also noticed that when the footman is at its peak, the drive wheel shifts towards it when the drive band is on but not when it isn't. 

My drive band is flat stretchy plastic that is sold in craft departments to make bracelets and key chains. That's what came on my upright (MLFarm aka Cindy has seen my upright. I didn't buy it from her, but she had my wheel for awhile.) Since that's what Cindy had on it, that's what I've kept using. I tied the knot differently though so I'm going to try a flatter knot and see if that helps too.

My band is crossing on the bottom.

My maidens appear parallel.

Whorls and drive wheel are in line.

It's not scooting across the floor.

It appears to only wobble with the drive band on.

I'll check into that video and book, WIHH. I only have one spinning book (Spin Control) so I definitely need more 

I have to run to the store today, but I'll work on it more as soon as I get back. Thanks everybody!


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## RedTartan (May 2, 2006)

Okay. I've added a ton more pictures of my wheel here:

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g89/RedTartan/Icelandic Sheep/

Wheel doctors are encouraged to look and diagnose 

WIHH, I will switch to cotton thread and make the footman connection longer. I'll report my findings.


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

I just looked at WIHH's wheel and I notice a difference between yours and her wheel in the axle/hub area. Your wheel appears to have about a 1/4-inch space between the hub and the uprights that hold the axle (see your photos below) WIHH's wheel has literally no space in this area. I wonder if your wheel is sliding from side to side when you spin which might cause it to throw the drive band?


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## RedTartan (May 2, 2006)

Wind in Her Hair said:


> Alden Amos recommends adding a washer -not a metal one! :nono: -but a felt or leather one or two -and oil it - to fill in the loosey-goosey spaces in that region.


Yes. That's on my grocery list. I need to get off the computer or I'm never going to get to the store... :teehee:


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## 7thswan (Nov 18, 2008)

I tryed a rubber drive dand in double drive-flipped off instantly. It grabbed itself on the crossover point.Won't work.


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## InHisName (Jan 26, 2006)

Hey! Since you have Icelandics, why dont you make your own felt washer? Saw some really neat ones on ravelry- this was a topic in the Lendrum group.


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## 7thswan (Nov 18, 2008)

Wind in Her Hair said:


> Alden Amos recommends adding a washer -not a metal one! :nono: -but a felt or leather one or two -and oil it - to fill in the loosey-goosey spaces in that region.
> 
> Okay, frazzle -step in here - I am NO expert and my experience with saxonys/slantys is decidely limited - but I am used to seeing flyers mounted on the maidens closest to the drive wheel with the leathers holding the flyer closest to the drive wheel- NOT on the "outside" of the maidens furtherest away from the drive wheel. I know there are differences in wheel desgins but it looks almost as if the flyer needs to come out and the maidens need to be turned around so that the leathers with holes in them are closest to the drive wheel?
> 
> ...


You are correct,they are wrong.


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## RedTartan (May 2, 2006)

Update!

I've put on a cotton yarn drive band and used leather shoestring to lengthen the footman attachment. I added felt washers on each side of the wheel. I also turned the maidens around since WIHH caught that they were on backwards. 

She hasn't thrown her drive band since!  She is apparently working now. I need to oil her still as she squeaks at me. I should be spinning on her by this evening!

Thanks so much everyone!


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

WooHoo! So glad things are working out now 

After looking at all your photos I don't think this is a CC. The finish is all wrong, and the wheel looks too new for a CC. I believe (I can't tell from your photos though) that the CC wheel is larger that yours appears to be. The grooves on the wheel are wrong for a CC as are the maidens. But it looks very similar and is a very nice flax wheel all the same.


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## RedTartan (May 2, 2006)

Thanks, Marchwind 

Now, does anyone know what type of bobbin is on my wheel? It only came with one. The head of it is a little more triangular than my upright uses.


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

WIHH the flyer on my CC is on the opposite maiden from the whorl, which is on the maiden closest to the wheel.


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## 7thswan (Nov 18, 2008)

RedTartan said:


> Thanks, Marchwind
> 
> Now, does anyone know what type of bobbin is on my wheel? It only came with one. The head of it is a little more triangular than my upright uses.


Glad you got your wheel going! Your bobbin looks like the ones I have for my Wee Peggy. I was able to get and use Ashford Bobbins as extras. So maybe try measuring your bobbin and we can see if others may fit.


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

Late to the party, sorry!

Good catch on the backwards maidens - hadn't noticed that (derp). That, the washers to stabilize the wheel from going side to side (and washers can be added in between bobbin and flyer if that should ever become an issue, just for future reference, usually you don't need 'em but it's a useful trick), and the proper drive band ought to sort it all out - as it seems to have done!

Yeeha!


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