# Found a wheel for sale



## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

Is this a good deal? I am new at this and can't look at this wheel and say, yes all the parts are there, etc... She doesn't know what kind it is. She inherited it from her family. Can anyone tell me anything about it? Is there anything specific I should ask her?

http://appleton.craigslist.org/atq/2630499122.html


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## InHisName (Jan 26, 2006)

you might check the raverly antique wheels forum- you could probably find a picture. If it was me, I would not get it, unless it was a fantastic deal. Why? Parts, finding instructions for your wheel, bobbins (which would be parts, I guess) You will want at least 4 or 5 bobbins, does this come with them? Can she tell you what bobbin would be compatable- such as Ashford? I would keep looking.... 
Another reason to maybe get it is if you would like to collect wheels- maybe someone else here will see it and say go for it- but if you are getting your first one to learn on, sure would hate for you to be frustrated before your world of fiber ever really started....


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

I am sure it only comes with what you see in the picture.


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## susanne (Nov 4, 2004)

no, this would not be my choice of spinning wheel if you don't know how to fix it or are a beginning spinner.


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

I'm inclines to say that any beginning spinner should veer away from antique wheels unless you have a knowledgeable spinner willing to go and look at it with you. Seriously, all that IHN said plus you really can't see everything from that picture. It could end up being a great deal but you can't really tell from a picture and from a seller who doesn't know about the wheel or about spinning.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

well, if anyone is interested, there it is.


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

Cute little flax wheel ... and there is a spare flyer assembly on the floor beside it!

As an antique wheel lover I'd say this one looks to be in pretty good shape. With some cleaning (wipe with a damp cloth, perhaps a coat of danish oil) it would likely be a lovely spinner. The thing is, if you are brand new to spinning it's hard to know if the trouble is with you or with the wheel. HOWEVER if you know a reasonably handy person (or are one yourself) AND you have the opportunity to see or perhaps try out a working wheel live and in person OR you know a spinner who will come and help you get things aligned, then if the price is right and you love the wheel, then go for it. 

Everyone says you need a lot of bobbins - but you can do just fine with one if you wind off. I use something I call a Lazy Fred (go to the Antique Wheels forum on Ravelry and search, there's pictures) but lots of people use a ball winder, and it works just great. It means you have LOTS of opportunity to spin whatever you want because you never run out of bobbins!  You do have to get a bit creative about plying but really it's not that hard.

As for parts and so on - that is indeed an issue, but this one looks to have everything it needs. The distaff top is missing but you don't really need one, and you can easily make one or get one (really neat old ones sometimes show up on eBay).

If you already know how to spin on a drop spindle (or are willing to learn that first) then learning on an antique wheel such as this one shouldn't be much harder than learning on a standard Ashford. It will require a bit of fiddling and fussing and getting it just so - the Antique Wheels Forum on Rav is a great place to get advice and help.

I would ask the seller for a picture of the flyer (the thing with the U shaped arms with the hooks), and ask if turning the knob on the front makes the thing with the 2 uprights (the mother of all) move back and forth, and if the spare flyer that is on the floor fits between the uprights the same as the one that's on there. 

For that price, assuming the moving parts move as they should (if the bobbin is sticky that can be fixed, they usually need some cleaning) and she treadles smoothly, I'd say that's a good deal. I had a wheel much like this that I cleaned up and resold, and it was a great little spinner.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

she said everything moves like it should and both flyers fit, one is just a slightly different color. She dropped her price to 100$. I think I am going to go take a look. You said it was a flax wheel. Meaning you can only spin flax?


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## susanne (Nov 4, 2004)

no, not only flax but maybe limited to fine spinning?


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

so can you only spin flax on a flax wheel? why wouldn't it work for wool?


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

You can spin anything you want on a flax wheel. However you may only be able to spin fine yarns (see Susanne's post), not thick, or even art yarn. The size of the orifice is generally what determines the size of the yarn. Flax wheels tend to have very small orifices.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

Can you interchange orifices, or is that something that is permanently part of each wheel?


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

It all depends on the wheel you have. The orifice is part of the flyer. With my Ashford I have the ability to buy different flyers to maximize range of what I want to spin. Cyndi will be able to answer this better than me, but I believe the Jumbo flyer has a very large orifice so you can spin chunky yarns. Here's the thing; if you have a flyer with a large orifice you will have a wide range of yarns you can spin. If you have a flyer with a small orifice you are very limited.

Some wheels have interchangeable flyer assemblies but not all of them do.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Yes, the Ashford Jumbo flyer has a larger orifice so you can spin chunkier yarns.

I can even attach the smaller flyer whorl onto the Jumbo flyer & bobbin if I want to spin a HUGE amount of fine yarn on the jumbo bobbin.

At least with the Traveller model DD w/ optional scotch tension.


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## susanne (Nov 4, 2004)

even though you can get different flyers for different wheels, this is not possible for all wheels because it changes the weight of the flyer and therefore interfere with the balance. the result might be in differences how the fiber is getting drawn onto the bobbin.


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

Cyndi you have a removable whorl on your Ashford?


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Yes Ma'am. 

On the Traveller DD with optional scotch tension model, the whorls are on the off side of the wheel.

I have the Jumbo maidens on the wheel that fits the jumbo flyer. 

I can use the *jumbo bobbin & whorl *










or the *jumbo bobbin & regular whorl*










or the *regular bobbin & jumbo whorl*










*regular bobbin and regular whorl (on jumbo flyer)*










I can also put a *bushing into the near maiden* 










and* run the regular flyer/bobbin/whorl* set up.










(There is also a lace flyer, but I've not needed it ... so far!)

Besides all these combinations, you can run it as a double drive, flyer led (Scotch tension) or bobbin led (Irish tension). It is a very versatile wheel. The down sides (there are always down sides) are it needs to be tightened after a few bobbins worth of yarn and it does love it's oil!


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## 7thswan (Nov 18, 2008)

There is an Ashford on Ht's Barter board right now.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Link to Ashford Traddy on Barter Board


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

I had no idea the Traveller had removable whorls. Are you able to buy the whorls separately? Very cool feature!


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

The lady agreed to come off the wheel for 60$. even if it doesn't end up working for me, doesn't seem one can go wrong at that price.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Marchwind said:


> I had no idea the Traveller had removable whorls. Are you able to buy the whorls separately? Very cool feature!



Not all the Traveller's do. I believe the Single Drive Traveller has the same combined flyer/whorl setup the same as the Traddy.




lonelyfarmgirl said:


> The lady agreed to come off the wheel for 60$.


Oh Yeah!! I'd buy it for $60!! Great Deal!

Check with Frazzle if you have any questions about refinishing. A good cleaning with Murphy's Oil Soap is in order for sure and I've heard/seen great things about the generic 'magic eraser' and cleaning wheels.

Once you get it cleaned up, PLEASE post more detailed pics!!


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

no problem. I will probably be asking about how to make it do what its supposed to do. I am picking it up next week.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

well, I picked up the wheel today. Its actually quite nice. The CL pic doesn't do it justice. I almost feel like I ripped the lady off.ig:

Anyway, it doesn't have the..drive band?..don't know the proper term, the belt that connects the actual wheel to the flyer? What can I use to replace it? And what do I use to oil away the squeakies?


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## gone-a-milkin (Mar 4, 2007)

Congratulations! I cannot wait to see her.

For squeakies on metal parts sewing machine oil or gun oil will work fine.
Even motor oil will work, but it is kinda stinky. Not veg oil because it gums up too easy.

You can use a piece of cotton crochet thread or some cotton butcher twine for a driveband, to get yourself started.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

I use 3-in-1 oil for my wheels. Any place that moves needs oiling.

If you use cotton yarn (like Peaches & Cream or Sugar & Cream) or butcher twine, you might want to wax your band if it seems to slip on the whorls.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

whorls? sorry, wheel terminology ignorant. the wheel itself only has one groove. its wide like the band should be an inch wide belt instead of a string, except the groove on the flyer is thin like for a string. I am not so sure the flyer isn't a replacement. I will get a photo up here today, after I clean it off. its kindof dusty.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Will need good pics of the flyer/bobbin and of the mother-of-all


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

Bees wax lightly put on the drive band will help with and slipping. I use mineral oil on all my wheels, it's cheap and works well, besides there is no smell.

Go here http://www.joyofhandspinning.com/wheel-parts.shtml and familiarize yourself with the parts of a wheel it will help you a lot. On the left side of that site there are lots of other articles and interesting things that will help you hugely.

Can't wait to see pictures. They will also help us a lot when we try to help you.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

ok, here are some pictures


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

Nice looking wheel!

You do not want a very wide drive band - butcher's twine would be absolutely the widest you'd want to go. The cotton used for weaving warp would be great, but use whatever you have, even the stuff you use to knit dishcloths. The reason the drive wheel has a wider groove is that the drive band just has to go around that, it doesn't need to 'sit tight' like it does in the flyer & bobbin whorls.

Here is a picture with instructions for stringing a double drive band, hope it's helpful:










(Oh, the only reason you loop the end around the flyer hooks is to hold it still while you do all the looping - when you go to tie the knot after going round and round the wheel, you take the loose end and unhook it from the flyer, and tie it to the other end of the band that you managed to get around the wheel. Some people tape the loose end down, but I find hooking it on the flyer is pretty convenient.)


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

thanks for the info. that is very helpful. However did you superimpose on my photo like that?


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

I copied it into Paint and doodled on it, then uploaded a copy to my server where I could host it so I could repost it here.

Previous life as a geek. Can't help it.


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

Just checking - you know how to get the yarn to come out the orifice by using an orifice hook, yes?

Stick a hook (unbent paperclip with a small bend put in at the tip works) through the opening of the orifice (the part that sticks through the leather thing at the front on the spinner's side) and out through that hole on the side. Grab the yarn that is coming off the bobbin and drag it back out the hole. Now you have something to attach to when spinning.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

You have a double drive. Your drive band will go from the flyer whorl around the large drive wheel, around the bobbin whorl, back around the drive wheel then connect back up on the flyer whorl.

The whorls are those 2 pulley looking things on the left side of the bobbin (bobbin whorl) and the other pulley looking thing between the bobbin and the maiden (upright thingees that holds the flyer/bobbin) in your last picture

When you're oiling it up, don't forget the leather flyer bearings. Those are the leather dohickies on the maidens that are holding up your flyer/bobbin.




> However did you superimpose on my photo like that?


She's goooood!


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

Ok, I've been looking at this wheel for a couple weeks, then it suddenly occurred to me that the flyer and bobbin that came on it is wrapped with cotton string. Eureka! Drive band! So I followed the instructions yall gave me and got one tied on, except it don't stay on. So maybe it was too loose. I backed off the MOA and tightened it up and didn't change nothin. Then I made it much loser and same thing. The wheel goes a few times around and the string pops off the whorls. Ummmm, help?


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

You've got an alignment problem of some kind. Stand at the back of the wheel and sight down towards the flyer (umm, I mean stand so that the wheel is in front of you but edge-on, rather than side-on, the way it normally would be if you sat at the wheel). Turn it by hand and watch what happens - if you get it spinning fast you may see the band pop off and be able to figure out what triggered it. Is the flyer moving in the leathers? Is the wheel not lined up straight? A picture will help us diagnose - the fixes are generally pretty straightforward but it depends which problem you have which fix will be appropriate.


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

Yea worse case scenario would be a warped wheel and even that isn't so bad. A picture or two or three would really help us at this point.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

IMG_5559 by dollyrockfarm, on Flickr

the picture I really don't think helps, but I did look at it and the wheel is warped a little, but I really don't think its that big of a deal. So how to I deal with this problem?


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

It's a bit hard to tell without the bobbin on there, but I'm going to guess that the flyer assembly is moving towards the spinner once you get going ... it looks like it needs to move 'south' a little bit (in my world, north is nearer the spinner, south is away from the spinner, and then east and west are obvious after that!).

Try twisting the front maiden a bit more towards the south so that the flyer assembly sits further back - the flyer whorl needs to be closer to the back leathers.

Do your uprights wiggle at all, or are they seated really tight?


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

I confer and concur with Frazzle. It looks like the whorl and maybe the whole unit, need to be moved just a bit away from the spinner. Can you put the bobbin on and the drive band and take the picture again. I might be easier to see it.

I have a warped wheel and I generally don't have a problem spinning on it but it might be a challenge for a new spinner.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

You need to put the bobbin whorl with the flyer whorl so we can see how the whole kitandkaboddle line up!


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

here are two pictures with the drive string on. I can see the problem. It looks as if the flyer is offset, thus drawing the string off the edge of the wheel. In the second photo, I pushed the flyer all the way to the right. It lined up almost straight, but if you look at the left side, the flyer bar is about to fall out of the leather holder, and of course, once the thing gets moving, the flyer surely won't hold position.

drive band issue 2 by dollyrockfarm, on Flickr

drive band issue 1 by dollyrockfarm, on Flickr


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

That front maiden ought to turn in it's socket - just twist it inward, and that should solve your problem for you.

You might need to put a plastic washer around the neck of the flyer to help keep it from creeping out of the leather, if it really keeps wanting to sneak out - I have used slices from syringes for that kind of thing, or plastic washers from the stash of useful stuff in the basement.


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

May I also suggest a string that is thinner, not such a heavy string. I think the knot being so large may also be part if the problem. Every whee I own (3) has a bit of an offset when the whorl is used to the farthest/nearest edge. One of my wheels even has a warped wheel but I have never had a problem of the drive band jumping off.
Here are my three wheels:
Country Craftsman







[/url] fibering 004 by mymerripu, on Flickr[/IMG]

Ashford Traddy a bit harder to see with the clear band







[/url] fibering 005 by mymerripu, on Flickr[/IMG]

Kromski Sonata also with the clear band







[/url] fibering 006 by mymerripu, on Flickr[/IMG]

You can see that each is offset but as I said I have never had a band jump in all my years of spinning.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

both the posts are twisted inward as far as they go in the second picture.

where would I put the washer to keep the bar from coming out? It would have to be on the outside, and I'm not sure I could slide it out far enough to put a washer on and still keep it in far enough to keep the drive band from popping off.

That was a piece of string I happened to have on hand. I can find something thinner.


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

It might make a difference, it is a cheap fix anyway. The wheel in my first picture is the one that is most like yours and is the one with the warped wheel The string/band I have on that wheel is probably a fingering weight string. I think it was a piece of cotton or linen warp.


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

For a temporary fix (I emphasize that this is temporary but it will help you see if it solves the problem) take a rubber band and wrap it around the collar of the flyer - between the leather orifice and the opening that the yarn comes up through. Put it on like a ponytail elastic, round and round until it is tight and sticks out a ways, then slide it towards the leather so that it serves as a 'collar' to prevent the flyer neck from sliding through towards the spinner.

The rubber band will not last long - it will disintegrate with friction and oil - but it will tell you if this is the fix you need.

If it is the fix you need, then you need to replace the leather with something else. Several wraps of copper wire might do the trick, or perhaps you can find a metal washer the right size that will sit at the right spot, or you can try plastic washers or ... any numbere of other things, basically, you want something to make it impossible for the flyer neck to slide out through the hole in the leather and get itself too far out of alignment.

Make sense?


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## frazzlehead (Aug 23, 2005)

Wait, you're a farm girl. You got any elastrator bands? Those are usually the perfect size for this trick.


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