# Different system to vent Dryer heat to inside



## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Please help me figure out how to do this: 
We want to use some of the dryer air this winter to heat the back area of house. But, I did not want the moisture all inside the house every time. Since the dryer sets into a section of cabinet, beside the washer, it would be necessary to crawl back behind it each time to switch the vent pipe from outside to inside and I would also have to stuff something in the hole to the outside to stop cold air from coming inside.

How can I make a pipe system that we would be able to open a vent and let air go outside, but then when the wet air is out, switch a vent or change a flap or move a damper of some type to let the air come inside the house.

I can live with stiff metal pipes and just pull the dryer out slightly, it would stick out in the floor space some but I can live with that in order to have a system to vent the air where I choose to vent it but not have to send my 10 year old behind the dryer each time.

Any ideas will be appreciated. Thank you.


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

i would consider trying to make some sort of heat exchanger and forget about venting directly into the house. you probably won't get much heat, but any free heat is worth a look-see. i'm thinking of a box maybe 1 ft. x 1 ft. x 2 ft. with salvaged copper pipe mounted vertically that would heat up from the exhaust. the pipes would be open to the room on the top and bottom and should circulate air as they heat up.


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## ericjeeper (Feb 25, 2006)

Cheap and easy. Even has a lint screen.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

ericjeeper: what is the box called and who sells it? Would it be sold at Lowe's? Thank you.


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## NorthCountryWd (Oct 17, 2008)

The box still allows a lot of moisture in. The heat exchanger is a better long term idea.


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## SolarGary (Sep 8, 2005)

Hi,
Whether you need to worry about moisture or not depends on your winter humidity levels. Where we are (and a lot of the West), the winter humidity is so low that the moisture from the dryer is very welcome, and causes no problems at all.

We just vent ours out through some panty hose for lint filtering -- works fine.

A dryer load uses about 2.3 KWH or 7850 BTU or the equivalent of 0.1 gallons of propane burned in an 85% efficient furnace. But, its worse than this because as the dryer pushes air out the vent, it pulls new cold air into the house that has to be heated.

I figure it saves us about 630KWH a year when you figure both the heat recovered and the fact that your dryer is not pulling a lot of new cold air into the house as it exhausts air outside.
http://www.builditsolar.com/References/Half/ProjectsConservation.htm#Dryer


Gary


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Thank you everyone -

SolarGary: We live in Western NC and I am not sure if we are dry or humid? We are still in drought stage and it is dry in the ground outside even shortly after what rain we get. How else do I know if it is OK to have the dryer wet air inside? Also, on your site it says "$5. for tubing" -- what did you do to vent it inside? Our dryer just has a flexible vent tube thing-y that sticks into the hole that goes to the outside. I have the sense to know I would stop up the hole with.....with what.....pink insulation or can I just cover it with a plastic trash bag and rubber band? Then, do I just let the dryer flexible vent tube thing-y lay on the floor or should I stand it up behind the dryer and let it blow out to the room? Thank you.

NorthCountryWd and MELOC: what is a heat exchanger? I see the description you give above but I don't understand it. Is it just tubes and somehow the dyer air goes through the copper tubes but then where does the air go next? 

Thank you.


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

my idea is a sealed box that the dryer exhaust blows through on it's way outside. the copper pipes would go through the sealed box, but would be open to the room on the top and bottom and not actually have the dryer air passing through them, but around them. this would allow the hot dryer air to heat the pipes and air from the room would naturally circulate through the pipes.


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## NorthCountryWd (Oct 17, 2008)

A heat exchanger is basically like a car radiator. Air passing thru the radiator cools the liquid on the inside. The two never actually mix but heat is transferred from one medium to the other. 

A friend used an automotive heater core (like a little radiator) installed in the dryer vent pipe and used it to warm a radiant floor in a small bathroom. He said he was optimistic in how large a surface it would heat, but was fairly happy with it.


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## NorthCountryWd (Oct 17, 2008)

The problem with the moisture, is that it can lead to rot and mold, usually close to the dryer. Arid places may keep the affected area smaller and slower but it will still accumulate.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Thank you - I do not think I could build the box system but I could vent the air inside if there was also a way to vent the wet air out for a few mins then vent the damp air inside. Thank you


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## SolarGary (Sep 8, 2005)

meanwhile said:


> Thank you everyone -
> 
> SolarGary: We live in Western NC and I am not sure if we are dry or humid? We are still in drought stage and it is dry in the ground outside even shortly after what rain we get. How else do I know if it is OK to have the dryer wet air inside? Also, on your site it says "$5. for tubing" -- what did you do to vent it inside? Our dryer just has a flexible vent tube thing-y that sticks into the hole that goes to the outside. I have the sense to know I would stop up the hole with.....with what.....pink insulation or can I just cover it with a plastic trash bag and rubber band? Then, do I just let the dryer flexible vent tube thing-y lay on the floor or should I stand it up behind the dryer and let it blow out to the room? Thank you.
> 
> ...


Hi,
We just take the existing dryer hose apart at one of the joints that was already in it. We stuff the part that goes outside with a block of foam, and tape over it with duct tape.
We tape a pair of panty hose over the part that comes from the dryer. You have to clean the lint out of the panty hose once in a while. I think there are fancier gadgets around, but the panty hose have been working fine.

I don't know much about the NC climate. I think somewhat moist in the summer, but maybe dryer in the winter?
I guess you could try it on a limited basis and see if you notice the moisture increase or it start feeling too humid, or if you start getting more condensation on the windows or see condensation anywhere. 

There are very inexpensive household humidity meters -- you could get one of these, and just see how much difference it makes. 

In my house, the humidity meter right in the utility room where we vent the dryer goes up form its usual reading around 20% up to around 40% for a few minutes during the dryer run, and then right back down to 20% a few minutes after the dryer stops.

Gary


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

i have tried venting directly indoors, but i got lots of condensation...especially on the windows. i imagine it would be better if i had better insulation and more efficient windows.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Thank you - we did pull the dryer out, stuffed foam in the hole, covered it with a trash bag and put those white tie things back on it. Then we just left the dryer setting out a bit from the wall so the vent pipe lies straight, mostly, put a panty hose over the end (great use for those old hose I have not worn in 7 whole years since we moved to the country!) and we set a towel under the end to see if we get any water on it. Since we keep a fan on low in there, drying herbs, then it may be OK. But - we will see. 

Thanks - I thought it would be more complicated! I like simple! We will see how it works out. Thank you.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Well! That did not work! We turned on the dryer and ten minutes later we had a wet floor! The towel was wet, the floor actually puddled. We hooked the outside line back up until I can design a way to let the wet air out and then switch it to inside and let the warm air in but only after some moisture is let out. I will have to design a solid metal flue with a switch somehow above the dryer so we can reach hit from above. 

Thanks


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## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

Take a plastic drum (35/50 gal.) and cut the bungs out big enough to install the line from the drier. Place the one from the drier into one and attach the outside vent to the other hole. Some of the heat will be extracted in the drum and the water will collect in the bottom. Roll the drum over to one of your floor drains and empty it now and then.

You won't get it all but I'll bet you'll get most of it..


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Ok, that would be one idea but I don't have room for a 50 gallon drum in the laundry room! Also, I do not have any floor drains........

Isn't there a way to have a solid metal vent pipe from the dryer to the outside vent......just like normal BUT then have a "T" or a "Y" pipe or whatever term.......a 2nd pipe that would go up and have a switch of some sort that I can reach without climbing behind the dryer (where only my 10 year old can fit anyway) and without pulling the dryer out from the wall every time.........and I just turn on the dryer and let the wet air go outside for 6 to 8 minutes, then flip the switch or flap and flap and the air will then stay inside the house, nicely damp but not wet .........and it keeps the warm air inside too......

I am going to work on it this weekend. There has to be some nice gadgets of some sort at Home Depot or Lowe's and I can hook them up creatively and make it work. I will let you know what we come up with.

Have good evening everyone.


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## Explorer (Dec 2, 2003)

Look into shop dust collection duckwork. Here is just one site: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/ductwork.html


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Thank you -- my son is working on a design that uses metal heat duct work, dampers and piping. He plans a solid metal duct going out, with metal damper that can be open and closed from above without moving the dryer, The plan is to run the dryer for a few mins. to let the wet air out, then switch and keep warm moist but not wet air inside. We use a fan already on sheets, towels (that hang on an inside clothes line) and the fan should move the air......will report back on how it works.

We did look at "store bought" ideas at Lowe's and online but all of them have to be used where one can reach them. We need to be able to use and switch dampers from above without moving the dryer......PLUS....all of them were plastic and everything I read about plastic and dryers is not good. Seems like metal is the best.

Thank you.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Tomorrow is the day my son builds the dryer/heater system. Our Heat/Ac company is interested in his design and are coming to watch and help out. Will let you know how it goes.


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## tomjones (Dec 22, 2007)

The problem with allthe noks and crannies you will create is that they will all collect moisture and lint with the associated and obvious dangers and problems.


I put a simple 10.00 switch from menards on my vent last winter. We do not use it untilt he humidity in the house as measured by our 19.99 digital thremometer set reached below 30%. We are just getting there now. All summer long we vent outside, but now we capture all of that and aim for 35% humidity. Above 40% we start to get condensation at outside temperatures below zero. 

You simply cannot believe how much warmer a 35% humidity house at 66 feels that a 70 degree house feels at 15%.

We do turn our central heat fan on full time when we are dong laundry to move the humidity around the house and equalize it.

Seems to work good and we just switched it back over full time last weekend. Good luck with your project, but make sure you are not reinventing the wheel just for the because of it.


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## Auric (Jul 18, 2005)

Local Farm & Fleet had a plastic box that the vent hose attaches to at the top. You fill the box with about an ich of water. The water captures the dryer water and lint. Hot air is vented out the top. House is more humid but also much warmer. Humidity is easily lowered by the dehumidifier running in the basement.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Thank you - we could not fix it today since we did not have the correct size bit for the drill. We are now going to fix it on Saturday. I don't think there will be "nooks and crannies" since he is only using solid metal heat duct work and going in only a straight line out of the house. He will have a metal duct going out, just like normal, using a solid metal "T" with the metal pipe sticking up (like some people have the dryers vented out of the roof line but this will stop at the top of the dryer). He has a "90" curved metal piece to point the air out into the room and he will put a fine particle filter over the end. He has a metal duct damper to put on the "T" piece. He will fix a handle to the damper so it can be open/closed from the top without moving the dryer.

When in use, the plan is to monitor the moisture and see how long to run the dryer to the outside before closing the damper to push the air to the inside. Since we already have a fan in place (used to dry herbs, seeds, and on the indoor clothes line), it can be used to move the air to the main part of the house (the laundry room is a back addition and off to one end of house). We also use the fan to heat system (that already moves the heat from the Fisher Wood Stove) to move air in the house - successfully - so it should move the moisture too.

We did try to look at the systems to be "bought" but they are all plastic and we wanted to keep all metal since some people say the plastic can build up static and then hold the lint. The metal, according to some, will shed the lint and can be cleaned easier. We plan to move the dryer out and check for water and lint and keep track of it.

Thanks for the tips - it is a good project for the boys and we appreciate the suggestions.


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## Explorer (Dec 2, 2003)

You might want to consider grounding your metal pipe as static electricity can build up from moving air. Wont hurt you, but a nasty shock.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Explorer: How would we ground the pipe? It will be about 4 feet off the ground where it comes out of the house - do we hook something to it outside or inside? Thank you.


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

meanwhile said:


> Explorer: How would we ground the pipe? It will be about 4 feet off the ground where it comes out of the house - do we hook something to it outside or inside? Thank you.


A wire to your ground rod.
static can indeed be a killer in a duct system . consider you will have some lint in this ducting and a static spark can cause it to ignite . a number of houses burn down every year because of lint in drier vents .


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## Explorer (Dec 2, 2003)

There should be a water pipe, must be metal, in the laundry room. Attach a bare copper wire, preferably #8 or 10, to your vent pipe with a screw or large pipe clamp and then to the water pipe. They make a special little clamp for attaching ground wires to a water pipe and just about any hardware store should have them.


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

couldn't you ground it to the grounded chasis of the dryer?


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## Gary in ohio (May 11, 2002)

First are we talking electric or gas dryer. Not sure I would want to vent a gas dryer into my home.

If its electric then a a small box with a FINE plastic screen will screen most of the lint and much of the water. let the water fall info the bottom of the box, either catch or drain it out. I think I would want the screen to be removable for easy cleaning.

DOnt know to many places in the winter that couldnt use a little more moisture in the air.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Hello - it is an electric dryer! 

As for the "ground wire" - we do not have any metal pipes under there. They are all that white PVC type pipes. Could I put a metal re-bar piece in the ground (the actual dirt) outside and hook the dryer wire to that? Thank you.


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## Watcher48 (Aug 30, 2007)

I got a gas dryer in E Tn and all I did was get some 4" plastic drain pipe hook it to the dryer. Its about 5 ft long and hangs above the dryer with a panty hose on it. Been using it or 7 years in the winter and the humidity hasn't bothered anything. Seems to help as it makes the house feel warmer. in the spring I just hook up the outside pipe


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

meanwhile said:


> Hello - it is an electric dryer!
> 
> As for the "ground wire" - we do not have any metal pipes under there. They are all that white PVC type pipes. Could I put a metal re-bar piece in the ground (the actual dirt) outside and hook the dryer wire to that? Thank you.



i'm certainly no electrician, but i assume all appliances will be grounded with the wiring they already have. if not, a 220 jolt from a short would send you part way across the room. so, i think you would be ok to ground the metal exhaust pipe to the chasis of the dryer itself.


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## Explorer (Dec 2, 2003)

MELOC said:


> i'm certainly no electrician, but i assume all appliances will be grounded with the wiring they already have. if not, a 220 jolt from a short would send you part way across the room. so, i think you would be ok to ground the metal exhaust pipe to the chasis of the dryer itself.


Yes, the body of the dryer would be grounded. If your new vent pipe is connecting to a metal fitting on the dryer, then it would be grounded through the body of the dryer.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

OK - I will have to show some ignorance of dryers here .....but I won't learn anything if I do not ask .......so......what is the chasis of the dryer and where is it? 

We are going to drill the holes and my son will put all the parts together tomorrow and I will let you know how it works. He is pleased to have worked on it so if nothing else, it has been a good learning project.


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## Explorer (Dec 2, 2003)

There should be a metal base of some sort and the external sheet metal work surrounding all the working stuff. That is generally referred to as the chassis. Attach your ground wire, if needed, to it (the base probably would be best).


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## ToddB (Oct 10, 2008)

If you are attaching the pipe to the dryer there is no need to ground it. There is no need to ground it anyway. Almost any hardware store sells the diverter kit in the HVAC section. It's a box you add to the original hose with a lever to divert the air in or out.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Hello - yes, most hardware stores and big box stores do sell diverter kits but they are plastic. We found two types at Lowe's (plastic), one at Home Depot (plastic) and even more online (more plastic) AND they all hooked to the back of the dryer, on the flexible vent hose pipe.

The whole point in designing a new one, and building it himself (him = my middle son, age 17 with help from the 10 year old son), is to build it out of only metal parts (for safety reasons) and to build it to be accessible on TOP of the dryer without moving the dryer in/out each time one wishes to divert the air. His plan will have the damper handles on top of the dryer where it can be changed at will.

Today he discovered the electric line is right where he wanted to cut the hole, so he is back to drawing board to fashion a curve piece he will build (by hammer pounding and bending) to leave the hole where it is, but still use the metal pieces he started with. 
Maybe tomorrow.......

Explorer: Thank you and I will tell him where to find the chassis. thank you


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## Explorer (Dec 2, 2003)

Good luck. I think that is a fine project for you and your sons to work on. Too bad more fathers don't get involved with their sons 'inventing' things to work on together.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Hello Explorer -
My husband did help with the project last weekend but he had to work out of state this week and won't get back until November 9th. The boys take digital photos of all their projects, send to my husband and when he calls at night, they discuss/plan what to do next. Today they had to help bury a water line so the dryer vent project had to wait a few more days. But, you are right, projects are good and "inventing" in fun too. Thanks and we will let everyone know how it works - when finally in place. 

Have a good weekend.


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## gwest (Oct 9, 2008)

Yes,a stopped up dryer is what burned my uncles house down. As for the ground wire,run a wire through the vent pipe that goes outdoors,put a metal stake of "anykind" in the ground and fasten your wire to it,there grounded. Yes it's that easy.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Hello everyone - the Dryer Heat Recovery System designed by Middle Son does work! He finished it last Friday, we used it, experimented with handle and dampers and it truly works. It does put moisture in the air when our heat (the main heat system or the wood stove either one) system is not running, but we fixed that by using a small fan we have for seed drying and clothes drying (we have an inside clothes line too). The weather got colder on Saturday and when the heat air is running, the moisture does not build up.

We leave the damper open to send wet air outside for about 6 minutes, then close it and the air comes into the room. He built the whole system out of solid metal duct pieces, it has a metal stack pipe that come up over the top of the dryer, curves to send air out into the room (and towards the main part of the whole house). He put a piece of panty hose over the very top end. 

We checked to see if water would build up in the pipe (by checking the pipe from the outside side) but so far, no problem.

Since it is all metal duct work, we cannot move the dryer now, but plan to move the washing machine out next weekend and open up the metal pipes just to check and see if it is all OK still.

We also noticed that with the dryer pulled out from the wall, the heat from the back of the dryer will warm up the room more too.

It was an interesting project for the boys, especially Middle Son and we will benefit from the extra heat in the cold laundry room, plus the moisture for the rest of the house.

Have a good week and thank you for all the tips and interest.


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## Explorer (Dec 2, 2003)

You and your son deserve a hearty "well done". It is not every day a youngster can design and complete a project successfully. You also deserve much credit for sticking with it through it's ups and downs.


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

i thought of this thread as soon as i corrected a big problem tonight. this is not really related, but i will post this here anyway. i felt a big draft when i was in the laundry room and now i feel like such a dolt! i damaged the cover on the dryer vent last summer and i have had nothing but the metal tube that exits through the wall. i had cold air channeling straight into the house! the vent hole is higher than the place where the exhaust pipe hooks to the dryer and cold air was just pouring in. i simply raised the flexible hose higher than the hole in the wall and bingo...the draft stopped. geesh...no wonder the floors were so cold! all it took was a simple "sink" to trap the cold air.

i don't even know if the original cover had any type of flap, i always thought it was just a cover. it couldn't have directed the air too far below the hole in the wall, but now i wonder if there is a flap or something i could install. if not, i guess i will install a downspout...something or other to keep cold air from entering the house that way.

:doh:


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## Explorer (Dec 2, 2003)

My vent cover has three louver like flaps. I clean lint every year or so, but there is only a minor amount of lint. Works very good.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

The hole to the outside of ours has the three flap thing too. You can buy it at Lowe's or Home Depot. Or the down spout idea is a good one too. Be sure you check your flexible hose frequently. When we were designing our metal dryer pipe system, we read about how the lint gets stuck in the ridges of the flexible pipes - that is why we used the solid metal duct work pieces. You can just pull the flex pipe off, stick your hand up there and clean it out. 

It is cold here today and I have a load of wash in washer! It is currently 58 degrees in the laundry room. Later the boys plan to see how many degrees the dryer will raise the temp in the laundry room. The experimenting continues!

Have a good day everyone.


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## indywahm (Nov 2, 2008)

I am so glad I read this. My dryer vent broke a while back and has been venting into the house and it does get pretty hot in here when I use it, but I was wondering how to keep the moisture and dust out of the air.


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## meanwhile (Dec 13, 2007)

Hello everyone - December 4th now and the dryer heat system is still working great. We took the pipe apart and planned to clean it but there was nothing in there! All the lint seems to get caught in the panty hose or when we vent to outside, it still goes outside or some gets stuck on that flapper thing. But...no lint was in the metal pipe. I was worried there would be build up but so far, none. We plan to open up the pipe months and check...since this is a new project.

The temperature in the room can be raised as much as six degrees with the dryer on. On some days the moisture does fog up the windows but only a little bit...we turn on the fan out there that we use on the plants/clothes line (we use an inside clothes line too)....and it gets rid of the fog quickly....by pushing the air into the main part of the house. On warmer days, which we have not had lately, we do still vent to the outside or if we will not be here, we vent to the outside.

The Homemade damper works good but does not close up tight but it does work good enough to put most of the air where we want it.

MELOC: we found a drafty hole near the back side of the water line hole....behind the washer! It was partly hid by the pipe but we put that "great stuff" mess in the hole and it fixed it.

Thanks again for the support everyone.


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