# equipment questions



## kycountry (Jan 26, 2012)

I've been reading up on raising bees and decided to give it a try.. I have found someone relatively local to get bees from but still have some equipment questions.

I will be getting 2 complete 10 frame hives in mid may that will consist of a bottom board, hive body, inner cover, and outer cover.. from splits he has made on his yard. He recommends that I run 2 hive bodies for brood and then supers if needed.. My thinking is I wont need the supers the first year but would like to keep them on hand just in case. 

Here is my equipment list for what I was thinking i would need.. 
Hive tool,
Frame lifter
smoker
veil (bee suit)
gloves
bee brush
2 hive bodies,
2 medium supers
50 frames with foundation 
entrance feeder
ABC & XYZ of Bee Culture 40th Edition book

Is there anything else I may need for my first year?
Anything I need to watch out for when selecting which hives of bees to buy? 

I have checked and their isn't many beekeeping clubs that is in my driving range within reason.. but I will be attending a few meetings of one and visiting a few beekeepers from a few counties away..

Any input would be appreciated...


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## indypartridge (Oct 26, 2004)

Hello and Welcome!

Here are my opinions regarding your list:

Hive tool - I prefer a Maxant or Italian type - they have a hook on the end that's useful for lifting out frames.

Frame lifter - I bought one, used it one time, never used it since.

Smoker - get one with a "guard", i.e., the wire cage around the cannister

veil (bee suit) - for years all I used was a hat and veil, along with jeans and some old white shirts I bought at the resale store.

gloves - I stopped using gloves a few years back, but for beginners I recommend playtex gloves (or nitrile). You'll get more a of a "feel".

bee brush - I use one occasionally

2 hive bodies - yes, if these are in addition to the deeps you're getting

2 medium supers - consider getting four. I've had years where I didn't use a super at all on new colonies, and years when I'ved used several.

entrance feeder - consider hive top feeders instead. Less robbing issues, holds more syrup so you can feed less.

ABC & XYZ of Bee Culture 40th Edition book - nice to have, not a necessity.



> Is there anything else I may need for my first year?


I use a frame rest ALL the time when I'm inspecting colonies. Some beekeepers never use them, but definitely worth considering.



> I have checked and their isn't many beekeeping clubs that is in my driving range within reason.. but I will be attending a few meetings of one and visiting a few beekeepers from a few counties away..


Clubs are great places to find mentors and get connected to nearby beekeepers. Worth making a drive once in a while.



> Any input would be appreciated...


Last bit of advice: practice with your smoker BEFORE you get bees. Experiment with different types of fuel. See how long you can let it sit without it going out.


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## kycountry (Jan 26, 2012)

Thanks for your advice!!

After reading most posts 9 pages back here and 70 pages of information from U.K. about raising bees in Ky. along with any other information I could find, I think I have a pretty good grasp of the task at hand. It seems like all I need now is to get me some hands on experience with another bee keeper and I'll be just fine.

I do have a few more questions though.. 

Is it possible to get too many bees when you first start? I have found an older gentleman that is willing to let me tag along for the spring inspections of his hives. He also said he would have 2 or more hives for sale. These would be 2 year old hives ready to make honey in the main flow this year. 

Also, I called my local Ag. Extension office trying to locate local bee keepers with very little luck, but the woman said she was writing my information down. She said that I was the first one in 2 years that even called about bees and was adding my name to a 3 county swarm list.. Is this a good idea as a beginner??

Again, thanks for you time and advice! I now have 10 med supers with frames, 5 deeps with frames, and all the above mentioned supplies ordered.. I'll be like a kid waiting on Christmas watching for the mail. lol


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## Michael W. Smith (Jun 2, 2002)

Depending on how your bees do and what kind of year you have - it is possible to get honey from a first year hive.

You may want to consider just buying the one hive. If you are looking for some free bees - just post an ad in any local paper or freebie weekly that you will remove honeybee swarms.

I did that last year, and while I only got one call for an actual swarm, I got ALL kinds of calls about removing honeybees out of houses or other buildings!!! And I even got a call to see if I wanted a free honeybee hive.

I verified that is was a honeybee hive, and they said "Oh, I think it is." They said about wooden boxes on top of each other. I figured I could always use hive boxes since I'm just getting into beekeeping and I said I'd take them.

That's about the time they said "There are alot of bees coming in and out of it." I asked "You mean there are honeybees in it?" And they said "Yes."

I went and picked up a hiveful of bees with bottom board, 2 hive bodies, and a super. In addition, they found an additional super in the shed - all for free.

It turns out, Amish were renting the property and they moved in late winter. Being that they moved to Ohio, they didn't take the bees with them. I also ended up saving their lives, because the guy that moved in didn't want the bees and was going to put gasoline on it and set it on fire and luckily he saw my ad for honeybee swarms!


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## kycountry (Jan 26, 2012)

I'm not sure about the removal of bees in houses and trees yet. maybe some swarms that I can reach rather easily but still not sure. Would you replace the queen of the swarms or just leave her be if they are gentle and laying eggs like they need to??

I was told that it's good to start with at least 2 hives to compare the 2 together and to pull brood from a stronger hive to help a weaker hive strengthen for the winter. Is that a bad thing??


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## ChristopherReed (Jan 21, 2011)

You should start with two, it will help you understand if one is not doing well, etc.. Gives you a good reference. ALso, if you want to "try" something (treatment etc..) you can just try it on one, and that way you dont risk killing all the bees you have. Getting splits from someone like that will help you get going alot faster than say.. a package. You could make honey the first year by running both splits together, but really you should just focus on learning first. 

Get a different book, ABCXYZ is a fantastic book!, but... there are more laid out beginner books that will help you. The backyard beekeeper, or Natural beekeeping IMO are good starters. 

Dont by a frame lifter, your going to kill bees, and get stung an awful lot. And Buy the gloves, BUT, try not to use them, you will learn to be way more familiar with the bees, and learn to respect them. It will also help you keep from killiing alot of them. But keep them in you pocket when in the hives, there is those days when they just dont want to be messed with, and they are gonna let you know.

I wouldnt get the entrance feeder either, it aids in setting off robbing... I use, and never have any problems with an inverted mason jar sitting on top of the frames, once they have the first super full. You dont have to feed any more if you dont want to. If you do, just get another super, or use a medium. To cover the mason jar, that way you can still use it later in life also.

After re reading this, are you getting two established 10 frame hives from him? I.e. the two hive bodies are already full of drawn comb, honey and bees? if so, you are gonna need the supers SOON.


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## ChristopherReed (Jan 21, 2011)

kycountry said:


> I'm not sure about the removal of bees in houses and trees yet. maybe some swarms that I can reach rather easily but still not sure. Would you replace the queen of the swarms or just leave her be if they are gentle and laying eggs like they need to??


Most people on do cut outs once, and bee trees once... Its usually a hot messy PITA.

I always leave the queen(s) ((there is sometimes quite a few in swarms)) and after she is going and established Ill evaluate her, and decide to squish or not. Sometimes they are just someones Italian offspring (that turn out good) or can be feral (read this as survivor type stock, that will try to kill you) But I usually have real good luck from swarm queens and keep some of them in my yard for genetic diversity.


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## kycountry (Jan 26, 2012)

I used to cut timber.. so I know all about the bee trees.. They don't bother me TOO bad lol.. seen a few that took a while before we could go back to work.. I left all the bee trees that I knew had bees in them. Most of the time they were hollow and wasn't worth cutting anyways. 

there is 2 places I have found rather local. One has them in a 10 frame hive body that will be split from his hives in April of this year and will be picked up in May.. These are $150 a piece complete with bottom boards and both covers.. but with just one hive body..

The other gentleman has them in 10 frame hive bodies that has overwintered and is currently being fed for a good spring build up. These will include the bottom board and both covers, one hive body and one medium super complete with frames and all.. and for the same price as above.. and he is close enough (and nice enough) to let me tag along in his yard.. these are available to be picked up anytime between now and the middle of April. 

I will buy from the latter one of the two for sure.. but was thinking of getting one from the other gentleman as well... 

I have ordered the supers and frames already.. just waiting on shipping. then see if I'm smart enough to put the frames and foundation together lol.


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## pheasantplucker (Feb 20, 2007)

Hey KY...welcome. I am in complete agreement with Indy about hive tool...get one with a hook on the end. I don't have a frame lifter, skip that. I also use a top feeder. Holds a lot more, you can not have to bother the hive so much, and the one I use, very few bees drown...For my smoker fuel, I use the bedding that pet stores sell for hamsters and guinea pigs. (Make sure it's not treated with anything). Good luck.


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## johng (Feb 14, 2009)

Definatly take up the offer from the guy how said you could tag along with on his inspections. The more hives you can get into the more you will learn. If you have the resources to buy equipment for more than two hives I say go for it. I was upto about 10 by my first winter. I have enjoyed every min of it. I would opt for the over wintered hives with out a doubt.


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