# Sticky  Lye, supplies and other oft asked questions



## Wisconsin Ann

I've noticed a considerable amount of time is spent on a few questions, which are raised over and over again. So I thought perhaps a sticky up top about some of those questions? A place where a newbie can go to quickly find a supplier.

Maybe we could all post our favorite places to find supplies, a link to the lye/fat calculator, etc.

Information on Lye, what is it, where do YOU get it from...any safety tips, hazards, etc. With that in mind.....

*Is lye necessary for making soap?* yes. Through chemical reactions, lye combines with fats to form soap. It is inactive after this process...a completely new compound, so it is no longer caustic.

*Lye - sodium hydroxide (NaOH)* My favorite place to purchase commonly used lye is a hardware store. Or a DIY store such as Home Depot types. It will be in the plumbing section most likely, or in the janitorial cleaning department. Make sure the bottle/can states 100% sodium hydroxide(NaOH). It's used as a drain cleaner. 

Lye is very hazardous. Poisonous, and caustic. Follow all directions right down to the letter when using it.


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## PETSNEGGS

Thank you for getting this started Wisconsin Ann. It will be nice to have a sticky that we can all refer too. It sure makes it alot easier. 
So please if anyone has any info please post it in this thread. I think it will really help out everyone especially the newbies. 
Here's too happy and safe soap making.


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## halfpint

Since most people just starting into soap will only want a small amount of lye, I would suggest going to Lowe's and purchasing the Roebic brand in a 2 pound container. Make sure the label states "100% sodium hydroxide". Our Home Depot does not carry any of the pure sodium hydroxide brands. 
Dawn


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## fransean

Around here a regional home center Menards carries Rooto brand lye in a 1 lb container. This is the same brand carried by the hardware stores.


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## Amylb999

*Links*

Soap recipes using animal fats: http://www.millersoap.com/soapanimal.html#BlendNoCoc

Free plans to build a 4x15 soap mold: http://www.chestnutfarms.com/Soap_and_supplies/info/mold_plan.html

Soap calculator: http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/soapcalculator.htm

Soap making supplies, EOs, colors, bases, molds, packaging: 
http://www.camdengrey.com/

http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/SoapMakingSupplies.aspx

http://www.brambleberry.com/index.html

Muller's Lane Farm: http://www.mullerslanefarm.com
tons of great information and tips, or just ask Cyndi herself on HT


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## Helena

Hmmm...use to make goat milk soap years ago..and after reading this forum think I just might start doing it again. Hubby loved the soap with the milk and oatmeal. It was sort of a brown color not really pretty looking but it sure could clean you hands. Just used an old broiler pan to pour the soap in and cut into pieces after it hardend a little. It looks like a long winter here in PA and maybe I'll also try some candle making too !! I'll be checking in for some ideas !! thanks !!


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## Falls-Acre

I may be a complete newbie to soap-making, but I did find this particular link to be very useful when it came to locating a place to purchase the chemicals, they offer a lot of bulk items, but there are a few things not quite as high volume for purchase.

http://www.aaa-chemicals.com/


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## Beltane

The last time I purchased lye I used The Boyer Corporation in IL. http://www.boyercorporation.com/ At the time when I called, I paid $1.00/pound for 40# which was over a year ago now. Just watch out for the shipping though! Forty pounds is...well....pretty heavy to ship!


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## Jeanette

I live in south Texas and I have been able to find 2 pound containers of Lye at Tractor Supply. It is in the plumbing section (on the bottom shelf at my store). It is called ROEBIC Crystal Drain Opener and is approximately $10. 

As always - read the label just to make sure you are getting 100% sodium hydroxide.

Jeanette
(new soaper!)
Hondo, TX


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## pafish6

Hi! newbie here, my mom was cleaning out her house and found a bar of lye soap that my GREAT Grandma made. while I will probably keep it for sentimental reasons, do you think it is still usable? I am trying to figure out how is lye made or what is lye made of? thank you!


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## Madfarmer

There are two forms of lye: Sodium Hydroxide and Potassium Hydroxide. P. Hydroxide is used to make liquid soaps. It's also the type our ancestors made from hardwood ashes & water. They never knew exactly how strong their lye was, which is why they cooked it and stirred it so long in order to get solid soap.

Madfarmer


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## pafish6

So does anyone make their own lye anymore? my neighbor has one of those outdoor furnaces, so I do have an unlimited supply of ashes handy.


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## Lavender Blue

I came across this site: http://www.essentialdepot.com/servlet/StoreFront the other day. I was trying to get to The Lye Guy's website but it does not appear to be available. Essential Depot is more of a chemical supply company but apparently they have specific soapmaking supplies included palm and coconut oils.


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## MullersLaneFarm

For the midwest soapers, let's not forget http://www.soaperschoice.com


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## rkintn

I found this great soap calculator: http://www.soapcalc.net/calc/soapcalcWP.asp


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## MullersLaneFarm

Has anyone know what is up with Boyer Corporation's website?? I keep getting that dreaded "404 Not Found"

Does anyone have their phone number??


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## doodlebug57

halfpint said:


> Since most people just starting into soap will only want a small amount of lye, I would suggest going to Lowe's and purchasing the Roebic brand in a 2 pound container. Make sure the label states "100% sodium hydroxide". Our Home Depot does not carry any of the pure sodium hydroxide brands.
> Dawn


Our Lowe's does not carry lye at all. I have to go to Ace Hardware and get it locally. I usually order it from Brambleberry.com. If you do the latter, you have to sign a waiver stating you are responsible and that you are over 18 then mail or fax it to them. You have to do this each time you order lye.


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## wendle

I've been able to get Lye at Menards , just did today.


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## cathleenc

where would you recommend buying fragrances for soaps? 

thanks!
Cathy


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## Astrid

I have never found a lye calculator for bear fat. Here in Alaska people hunt bear. I was thinking I would ask folks for their bear fat and render it down.... but how much lye would I use? Can I use the lard or tallow calculations?


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## Cyngbaeld

http://www.northcountrymercantile.com/soapmakinglibrary/lye-calculator/
This calculator does bear fat.


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## MullersLaneFarm

Both *Bear Oil *and* Beef Tallow *have a NaOH SAP factor of .139

You can safely use Beef Tallow in any lye calculator of your choice.


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## reneebartnick

Best prices on Lye that I have found online. 
www.essentialdepot.com

Best prices on herbs for coloring your soap, oils and shipping.
www.herbco.com

Another good place for herb coloring, but shipping is expensive. They have good info about how the herbs color your soap.
www.botaniesoap.com


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## CollieFlowerWV

cathleenc said:


> where would you recommend buying fragrances for soaps?
> 
> thanks!
> Cathy


The safest fragrances are essential oils. Since they are strong-odor wise you will probably not need much. Can get them a various places-I purchase mine at Whole Foods or online.


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## linn

cathleenc said:


> where would you recommend buying fragrances for soaps?
> 
> thanks!
> Cathy


I like Bramble Berry and Wholesale Supplies Plus.


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## kaitala

I used to make a wonderful soap, and got my sodium hydroxide from amresco.com . Don't know if they only deal with businesses, but it's worth a shot. 2.2 lbs (1kg) for $40 plus shipping (and hazmat fees). 

Oh, and this is my first post, so Hi! All!


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## NewGround

Astrid said:


> I have never found a lye calculator for bear fat. Here in Alaska people hunt bear. I was thinking I would ask folks for their bear fat and render it down.... but how much lye would I use? Can I use the lard or tallow calculations?


Bear soap may have a nice marketing angle to it...


soap for manly men, LOL...


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## linn

It looks like bear fat has the same value as macadamia nut oil and almost the same as beef tallow. Here is a link with saponfication values. Hope it is correct.

http://home.pacific.net.au/~thambilton/Saponification.html

I would just plug in macadamia nut oil in SoapCalc instead of bear fat. Try a one pound batch first to try it out.

This chart shows the same.

http://standeyo.com/News_Files/Soap/Saponification_Chart.html


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## MullersLaneFarm

SAP for bear oil is .139 (same as macadamia)

Bear fat rendered down is more of an oil rather than a solid tallow. It makes a wonderful soap (and lotion!)

Be sure to dry render (without water).


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## Peggy

Question: the last batch of soap I made harden up nicely. but when I use it each bar melts away within a weeks time. I used extra light olive oil along with palm kennel oil and coconut oil. I am just wondering if the extra light olive oil is the wrong type of olive oil to use? has anyone else had this problem?


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## linn

How long did you let your soap cure? Soap that hasn't cured for several weeks does melt away fast. Adding a little salt to your water before dissolving the lye will help the water evaporate faster from soap bars and give you a little harder bar.


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## Peggy

linn said:


> How long did you let your soap cure? Soap that hasn't cured for several weeks does melt away fast. Adding a little salt to your water before dissolving the lye will help the water evaporate faster from soap bars and give you a little harder bar.


the recipe I used said to cure the soap for two weeks. the first batch of soap I made with the same receipe cure for 2 weeks and I did not have a problem with that batch.


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## linn

Is this the same recipe as the first recipe? What percentages of each oil did you use. I like to use at least 30% coconut oil. I think a longer cure will give you a longer lasting bar. Using SoapCalc, I plugged in 30% coconut oil, 15% palm kernel oil and 55% olive pomace and got a pretty hard bar. That doesn't tell me how long-lasting the bar will be though.


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## Peggy

linn said:


> Is this the same recipe as the first recipe? What percentages of each oil did you use. I like to use at least 30% coconut oil. I think a longer cure will give you a longer lasting bar. Using SoapCalc, I plugged in 30% coconut oil, 15% palm kernel oil and 55% olive pomace and got a pretty hard bar. That doesn't tell me how long-lasting the bar will be though.


Yes, it is the same recipe. I made the soap the week after thanksgiving. I think that has been curing long enough.


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## Peggy

Peggy said:


> Yes, it is the same recipe. I made the soap the week after thanksgiving. I think that has been curing long enough.


I still think it might be the extra light olive oil, has anyone else ever used extra light oilve oil?


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## Iddee

Does anyone have a link to a list of oils and what properties each give to soap?

IE: Hardness, grim removal, soft skin, ETC.

T.I.A.


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## MullersLaneFarm

Iddee,

Kathy Miller's site has what you need to know.

Between the "soap handouts in pdf format" & the "design you own recipe", you will have the information you need.


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## Iddee

Thank You


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## MullersLaneFarm

That oil is fine. Most likely your 'melting' problem has to do with the percentage of each of the oils you used, the amount of liquid used in your lye solution and the length of your 'cure' time.


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## skittles3

I was wondering where to find actual recipes for making soap. My partner and I are interested in making our own but, we need help knowing where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## MullersLaneFarm

A great place to start is Kathy Miller's soap page http://millersoap.com/

Kathy has accumulated a wealth of knowledge in her pages for over 15 years.

Recipes? They are all over the internet, but that doesn't mean they are safe. Best get some basic knowledge and learn how to use a lye calculator before you jump into recipes.


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## clarahrose

I've seen a number of online soap recipes that call for "food grade" lye. 

I asked my local soap maker and she agreed. She said that food grade is guaranteed not to have any impurities, like tiny metal shards, that may exist in the lye that you can get at a hardware store.

Agreements? Disagreements?


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## Janis R

I live outside of Knoxville, TN and there is a candle-making and soap-making company that I buy my lye from and fragrances from. They have very good prices and if I am in Knoxville already I buy and some supplies and don't have shipping charges. I would check and see if there is any companies in big towns/city that you could buy from.


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## cntrywmnkw

Hi all, I'm just starting to get into making soap & have a question about an immersion blender. Can any of you recommend a decent immersion blender out there, I've been looking at a few on Amazon & as usual the reviews are all over the board. Since I'm just getting started, I don't want to jump in & get the most expensive one on the market. Any & all suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


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## Maura

I got mine for $2 at the thrift store. You aren&#8217;t going to use the stick blender very often, just when you make soap, so you don&#8217;t need a well made one. In fact, you only need it if you are making a very small batch or making 100% olive oil (or very high OO content)


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## Morledzep

I read an article about soap making, the poster no longer posts on the forum that she put the article on, and I can't seem to find an answer to my question. 

She gave the link to a soap recipe maker/lye calculator that give great directions. She posted a picture, with no dimensions, of her "3 lb soap mold." 

I've worked up several recipes to be made with the materials I have on hand, but I have no idea what the dimensions of a soap mold should be, whether it's for 1, 2 or 3 lbs of soap. I can look on various websites and find soap molds, but none of them say how much soap by weight, they only give the outside or the inside dimensions. 

here is the lye calculator, I like it. It seems easy enough to use. And the instructions are easy to follow. 

https://www.thesage.com/calcs/LyeCalc.html

Can someone give me inside dimensions, or at least a starting point to make a wooden soap mold that holds 3 lbs of soap? please?


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## Maura

Get 2 boxes, wood or cardboard, and line them with waxed paper. Once you have mixed your ingredients, eyeball what you&#8217;ve got and take a guess as to which box is the right size. Pour the soap into that box leaving an inch from the top. Any excess, pour into the other box.

A pizza box is a nice size and the bars will be easy to cut. Of course, you won&#8217;t leave an inch of head room, just fill so it does not over fill. A large box may be large enough for 3 pounds, but have a small box on stand by just in case. Once you&#8217;ve made a batch and cut the bars you will have a better idea of how you like that particular size and you can create your box to what you want.

Pour fast because the soap will set up quickly, becoming a mass of applesauce, and thicker and thicker. 

I make a larger batch. I start with the weight of the lye and work it from there. This way, I am not measuring lye. When you pour the lye into the water have a paper towel ready to cover the container. I use glass containers, such as a vase. I put a plastic spoon (cooking kind) in the container of water. I then pour in the lye and cover with a piece of paper towel that has a hole poked in the center. The handle of the spoon then sticks out through the paper towel. Stir because the lye will glob on the bottom. Leave the spoon where it is. The paper towel keeps the vapors from rising, and the spoon doesn&#8217;t seem to be affected.


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## StL.Ed

Just rambling a bit, since I haven't made any soap in a while...
A pound of fat is a bit more than 30 cubic inches. (30.15)
A pound of water is a bit less than 28 cubic inches (27.68)

So, if you are starting with 3 pounds of fat (90 ci) and 25% water (3/4 pounds is 21 ci), figure 111 cubic inches. Water will eventually evaporate and your soap will shrink, but this is a starting point.
Are you going to whip air into your bars or add solids such as charcoal or coffee? These will, obviously, increase your volume. 
What dimensions were the molds or boxes you saw? 
What size do you want the soap, and which way(s) do you want to cut it?

It seems that 12x12 box should give you a pour 3/4 inches thick, so having 2 inch walls should be safe. A shoe box (about 13x8? your shoe box might vary) will give pour about 50% thicker, and could give 12 decent sized bars.

ETA: I just found a couple of sites that say cubic inches of mold x 0.4 = ounces of oils...
http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/s...e-Size-Amount-Of-Soap-To-Fill-A-Soap-Mold.htm
http://www.soap-making-essentials.com/calculating-moldrecipe-size.html

So, fat or oils divided by 0.4 = cubic inches... 48/0.4=120 cubic inches

Argh..different sites give different conversions than 0.4 :shrug:
https://www.google.com/#q=soap+mold+size

Here's a site that sells boxes by soap weight (but is that fat/oil weight, or batch total weight?), and lists their sizes.
http://www.soap-making-resource.com/wooden-soap-molds.html


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## MullersLaneFarm

Morledzep said:


> https://www.thesage.com/calcs/LyeCalc.html
> 
> Can someone give me inside dimensions, or at least a starting point to make a wooden soap mold that holds 3 lbs of soap? please?


Length of mold x Width of mold x Height of soap x .40 = ounces of oil is the standard calculation. Where it gets tricky is the amount of liquid you choose to use for your lye solution because that is a variable number.

The only purpose of the liquid in the lye solution is to distribute the lye throughout the oils. Soapers will use various calculations to determine how much liquid to use from a percentage of the oil used (37% often called full water amount and less). Or they will calculate the amount of liquid to use based on the amount of lye being used and how strong they want the lye solution to be. 

The less amount of liquid in the lye solution, the shorter the 'cure' time, the more difficult it is to soap with and of course, the less volume in your soap mold.

MMS (thesage) has a great lye calculator. It was the first one I used in 1999. I used many of the SAP values when I developed my Excel based lye calculator that also looked at the fatty acids of the various oils. (That spreadsheet was used as the base for SoapCalc (which has undergone a new 'owner' since Ken, the guy that originally developed the online calculator from my spreadsheet ).


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## smayers70

Hi I recently found a large national supplier for both Lye and Caustic Potash! Their prices seem to be very good and shipping is free. They are currently selling 50 pound bags of Lye for $69.99 and 50 pound bags of Potassium Hydroxide for $40.99.

Just in case anyone is ramping up their soap production and needs a reliable (cheap) source of Lye and Caustic Potash.

Lye: Caustic Soda Beads
Potassium Hydroxide: Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)

Happy Soap Making!
Scott


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