# Cost to build a cabin



## TexanCowboy (Oct 14, 2013)

Hey guys! I'm new here! Great page!

I'm currently looking to build a 14x14 cabin with a metal roof (maybe metal sides too, not sure), concrete slab, a loft for a bedroom and maybe tile floors (like the 99cent a square foot stuff). What is the rough figure for the materials? I know I'm being rather vague but not sure where to start haha


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

Go to TinyHouse.com


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

You want windows and doors or just a flap? You want insulation to keep that metal box from cooking you? Is the loft a second floor or a slit to slide in a mattress? 
Wouldn't a 30 year old 16 foot travel trailer be easier, cheaper and more comfortable? Are you wanting better than a travel trailer or cheaper than a travel trailer?
You are right, perhaps too vague.
Any storage sheds on display at the lumberyards? You want more or less than a storage shed?


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## BroManDan (Oct 14, 2013)

On the internet to your local Lowes you can price everything.
Lumber would be.. a back of envelope estimate:

Floor system (wood only)
14'x12"=168 inches (14 feet=168 inches)
168/16=10.5 (floor joists spaced 16 inches apart+=~11
11+2 (two more joists for a single band)=13
13+2 (4 more lengths for a double band) =15
** 15x2x14 = 15 2x12s 14 feet long

Plywood for the floor comes in 4x8 foot sizes (4x8 ft=32 sq ft)
14x14=196 sq ft
196/32=6.127= ~ 7 sheets of 3/4 inch plywood.

Walls same as floor. Studs 16" apart
168/16=10.5=~11 2x4 studs per wall. + 4 for double corner posts=15 * 4=60
** 60 2x4 studs.

** Floor plate for wall and double top plate=12x16=168 linear feet of 2x4.

2x6x14 (2x6s, 14 ft long) @ 16" on center for ceiling joists=12

Roof: Figure your pitch.. lets say 12x12 (45 degree angle) to make calculations easier.
Since A sq + B sq=C sq on a right triangle, the peak of your roof will be 7' up from the ceiling and the rafter lengths (C) would be (7*7)+(7*7)=49+49=98ft. The square root of 98 ft is about 10 feet, plus some overhang. Lets call them 12' long. You'll need about 12 of those.
2x10s should be ok for the rafters
** 12 2x10x12 

Maybe 8 or so sheets of sheathing for the roof

14 or so sheets of 4x8 siding to enclose the building.

This is just the lumber.


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## TexanCowboy (Oct 14, 2013)

haypoint said:


> You want windows and doors or just a flap?3 or 4 double pane house windows and a wooden door.
> 
> 
> > You want insulation to keep that metal box from cooking you?
> ...


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Makes a huge difference if you have to get permits or not. Can you use rough lumber? Does the lumber have to be graded? DSs cabin is 24"x24", minus a 4'x10' porch cost $16,000.00. Bought 2"x6" studs and plates, had to be #2 and better. All sheet rocked inside. Trusses, plywood roof sheathing, 3/4" T&G plywood flooring with plywood T-111 siding. Metal standing seam metal roofing. Interior finish work was not included, we used pallets, barn lumber, old galv roof tin and old barn timbers. Floor, wall and attic insulation and concrete stem wall crawl space was contracted out. Insulation and installation was $800.00 and foundation work and concrete was $3,5000.00....James


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## TexanCowboy (Oct 14, 2013)

Technically I have to get a permit, but the local city (small, broke town) doesn't wanna pay anybody enforce zoning laws so it wont be a problem. Heck, they will be glad to get a new tax payer and water account. Won't be a problem at all. 

As far as lumber, I want to build it to last, but I'm sure I can use #2's and rough cut for the majority. And I might not even go with metal walls, I just figured it would be cheaper and more durable.


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## lonelytree (Feb 28, 2008)

You can't divide 14 by 4. Go with 12 X16 or 16 X 16 and you will save money. Most building materials are set for 4 foot increments.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Metal costs more/ft and you need to do more to keep it from collecting moisture and rotting the wood. Tar paper under the roofing and a house wrap over studs before the T-111 is nailed on,(no need for sheathing here if T-111 is 5/8") than tip up the walls. If you have a truss manufacturer near, have them build storage attic trusses. DSs had 3' high outside walls installed in them so his upstairs loft is 14'x24 with a 5/12 ceiling on a 8/12 pitch roof. We did not do anything up their but put down plywood for storage for now. When he adds on he can install stairs and have 2 full bedrooms....James


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

What lonely tree said is correct, divide by 4 and square is better , e.g. 16x16........


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## lonelytree (Feb 28, 2008)

12 foot wide is cheaper for trusses and floor joists.


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## TexanCowboy (Oct 14, 2013)

Good point. I didnt think of that. 12x16 it is The reason I am considering doing this is because the house I am in is old and is kinda gettin away from me (not real bad, but not in top shape either.) I figured it would be cheaper and easier on maintenance to build a small cabin than to try and fix this one.


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

I would go 12x24, we built a deer cabin in WV a few years ago 16x32 and 6 guys sleep in it and it's pretty comfortable.... I would like a buy a 12x24 utility shed and turn it into a deer camp someday......


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## TexanCowboy (Oct 14, 2013)

cost?


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## lonelytree (Feb 28, 2008)

If you have a lumber yard nearby, let them quote the package price. Usually, they will even give you a copy of the plans.


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## John_Canada (Aug 17, 2013)

I can easily build a 24X24 garage for about $5000 (materials) here and that is expensive. You likely wont need most of the under slab insulation in texas... so even less. Totally livable.


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## TexanCowboy (Oct 14, 2013)

thanks canada EH!


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## Dolly (Dec 13, 2003)

Interesting thread. 

I'd like to add my bit, for whatever it's worth. After several years of comparing costs vs size vs durability vs time spent building vs whatever else I could think was pertinent, I've decided on buying two 20ft. containers, having them delivered, and buying some 24' steel trusses that my brother has and said he would sell to me cheap. With brother's help, we have figured the two containers with the trusses across the top for a roof with an overhang. The open space between the containers would be framed up with treated wood on footings and a floor built on that. Only two end walls would need to be framed up, with something like board and batten siding or maybe sheet metal if funds permit. Add doors and windows with framing or cutting torch, whichever is necessary.

Cost I was quoted for two 20' containers, of my choice, delivered to my rural land, was a bit over $5000. Considering the remoteness of my land I think that's a great price. 

I already have most of the lumber for framing up the end walls and floors. I even have an assortment of windows and a few steel doors in my 'some day cabin' stash. I am only lacking the trusses (which brother says I can buy cheap from him), roof (metal?) and interior framing and insulation. I figure with containers probably half of my work is already done due to their structural integrity. 

I may even save up a little more and have three containers delivered and build a larger structure.


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## lonelytree (Feb 28, 2008)

Dolly said:


> Interesting thread.
> 
> I'd like to add my bit, for whatever it's worth. After several years of comparing costs vs size vs durability vs time spent building vs whatever else I could think was pertinent, I've decided on buying two 20ft. containers, having them delivered, and buying some 24' steel trusses that my brother has and said he would sell to me cheap. With brother's help, we have figured the two containers with the trusses across the top for a roof with an overhang. The open space between the containers would be framed up with treated wood on footings and a floor built on that. Only two end walls would need to be framed up, with something like board and batten siding or maybe sheet metal if funds permit. Add doors and windows with framing or cutting torch, whichever is necessary.
> 
> ...


I don't know where you are but the containers aren't that strong. You may have to use some materials to prevent cave in. The corners are very strong. The middle, not so much. Ventilation is the biggest issue. Mold gets old. 

It will probably be only owner financing if you ever sell it. Insurance is iffy.


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## John_Canada (Aug 17, 2013)

TexanCowboy said:


> thanks canada EH!


LOL. Lived in Las Vegas and Hollywood, cal for years, remember the heat before my igloo and dog sled days, eh! Wouldn't trade it for the world now. Love the seasons here.

The problem we actually have with cabins in ontario is with the authorities, in some cases we have to be over 900 sqft and follow the new energy star reqs...not cheap here. It was socialized medicine or easy building permits and we chose medicine.


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## Dolly (Dec 13, 2003)

No concern about ever financing such a structure. I'm in Texas. No ins. either. Just a 'cabin', per se. I got specs from the co. that sells the containers, good information to have.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Containers in the Texas heat? OH BOY. I would think they would need to be insulated to keep it out. Are winters cold there? The same, need insulation. Containers would only be a shell. Can finish a lot of exterior walls when you only need to add siding, extra. I guess maybe more primitive then I would want....James


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## TexanCowboy (Oct 14, 2013)

John_Canada said:


> LOL. Lived in Las Vegas and Hollywood, cal for years, remember the heat before my igloo and dog sled days, eh! Wouldn't trade it for the world now. Love the seasons here.
> 
> The problem we actually have with cabins in ontario is with the authorities, in some cases we have to be over 900 sqft and follow the new energy star reqs...not cheap here. It was socialized medicine or easy building permits and we chose medicine.


What would they do if you built it anyway? Politely inform you that you are in violation and ask nicely that it be removed? LOL Canadians arent very aggressive 


BTW, I called the local town today and informed them of my intent to have water hooked up. They were VERY happy and didnt even mention that I needed a permit. Benefit of living in a broke town. haha


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## Lookin4GoodLife (Oct 14, 2013)

LonelyTree is right, the containers are only strong on the corners where they stack with each other. Everything I've seen about people using them for bunkers or putting anything on top of them, they had to use steel I beams between the corners to make the roof support anything.

Cowboy, you might want to look into the companies that build prefab metal buildings and houses. Some of them are real reasonable and they bring them in on a truck and you just bolt everything together. They don't look like just an old "metal shed".


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## TexanCowboy (Oct 14, 2013)

can i get one for under 10k?


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## Lookin4GoodLife (Oct 14, 2013)

Depends on what you want I guess. I think some of these round top ones are pretty cool. All you've got to do is close in the ends and insulate them. You can configure them however you want to.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/steel-home-kits


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## Dolly (Dec 13, 2003)

Roof trusses = a roof, as I mentioned in my post, thus no direct light on top of the containers and thus a greatly reduced heat gain. No worries there either.


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## wharton (Oct 9, 2011)

Lookin4GoodLife said:


> LonelyTree is right, the containers are only strong on the corners where they stack with each other. Everything I've seen about people using them for bunkers or putting anything on top of them, they had to use steel I beams between the corners to make the roof support anything.
> 
> .


 Not quite sure how much load you think might be imposed in this situation, but I can assure you that the roof of a container is more than sturdy enough for a uniform truss load in a low live load situation (texas, not much snow load, eh.) You aren't quite correct about your understanding of the structure of these things. They are generally very strong overall, the corners however are astoundingly strong, as they become support pillars for the other 6-8 containers that may be stacked on them. That said, the long sides have reinforced top and bottom rails, and the corrugated vertical skin is a fully welded stress skin panel that contributes significantly to the overall strength of the box. There are numerous buildings in use, built exactly as the poster is describing. I have yet to hear of a structural issue in this application, and seriously doubt an issue would arise with an unmodified box supporting a light roof load. 

I have used these units for construction storage in the northeast. IF you fail to appreciate the fact that are pretty much an uninsulated solar oven, and don't take proper precautions with ventilation, shading, exterior color, etc..... you might want to grab some flour and bake bread in one located in Texas, since they will certainly be hot enough inside.


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## Lookin4GoodLife (Oct 14, 2013)

I admit I know absolutely nothing about containers. I was only repeating what I had read in numerous forums, which I guess is not a good idea as I truly have no first-hand knowledge of them.


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## zito (Dec 21, 2006)

TexanCowboy said:


> What would they do if you built it anyway? Politely inform you that you are in violation and ask nicely that it be removed? LOL Canadians arent very agressive


Well actually, first you'll get a fine(s) for not pulling permits. Then it'll be inspected. If it's deemed to be built to code, you'll then have to pay for the permit(s) you would have originally had to get had you gone the fully legal route. If it's deemed to be not to code, you'll be ordered to either A) bring it up to code, or B) remove it. If it's option A and you don't bring it to code, the building will be condemned and you'll be evicted. If option B and you don't comply, the municipality will do it for you and then bill you for it. They don't work cheap, either. If you don't pay these fees/fines they are added to your property tax bill, which if unpaid leads to your property being seized and sold at auction. 

This is how my municipality operates, but I'm sure it's very similar to many other areas throughout Canada and the U.S. Even Texas. Don't p*** off the taxman, or the permit fee collectors.


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## Dolly (Dec 13, 2003)

Many counties in Texas, especially counties with large rural areas, don't have a lot of building codes and don't require permits, fees, etc. The only inspections I can readily think of is for electric, for when you set your pole and meter loop. In many places, what you do with it after it goes inside the weather head is not the elec. co's problem or concern. This is why many people still choose to move to rural Texas. We're not eaten up with permits, fees, inspections, & such self-milking goats as other places. I was told I didn't even need a privy permit when I first moved here and used an outhouse for the first year or so. I know other places that still allow privys/outhouses require a permit fee although no one actually comes out to inspect your privy/outhouse.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

Lookin4GoodLife said:


> I admit I know absolutely nothing about containers. I was only repeating what I had read in numerous forums, which I guess is not a good idea as I truly have no first-hand knowledge of them.


I suspect what you might have read are concerns about burying them.


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## texican (Oct 4, 2003)

Built a 12' x 20' kennel house, year and a half ago, tiled floor, insulated walls and ceilings (drywall), metal roofing, 3 windows, door, electrical's, and a/c fo4 $10/foot. Everything was built, up to code, and if one added a water hookup, could be lived in easily, if one were into tiny homes... Imagine would be almost the same price, with a cement slab for a floor...


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## cleb (Jan 8, 2003)

My latest is 12x20 with a sleeping loft

(photo from last winter)









I have the whole build up to now documented on youtube [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-UawJo5blU&list=PL3F06C35DB74DBD2D"]Guest Cabin[/ame]

We are right around $3500 give or take... and probably have $500 to $1000 more to spend...

We were able to save a lot on our projects by getting windows for free (dumpster diving), using Amish steel roofing, lumber, stove pipe and getting the wood stove from a family member.

I am planning on building a very small DC only solar power setup after we clear some more trees and that will run around $400. It will only be used to provide lights...

I have a larger 20x30 pole barn I built that was around $5000 and that could have easily been turned into a small cabin with an attached garage...

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiCiHxids2g&list=PL63763EF15D7A71C6"]Pole Barn[/ame]

My main cabin is 20x30, solar powered and total costs are around $15k... It's just under 1000 square feet...










My youtube channel, http://youtube.com/buffcleb, and blog, www.bethnchris.com, document all my projects


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