# metal siding



## smith8833 (Dec 16, 2011)

I am saving an old barn, turning it into my shop! I will be putting metal siding over the old wood siding! There never was any battens on the boards so it is a flat wall! 1/2 inch gaps between boards!
Should I put a vapor barier (tar papper) under the metal siding? Is it going to help anything?


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## SteveO (Apr 14, 2009)

congrates on the first post you lurker you.
First where abouts are you heating and cooling options come to mind.
Cheapest way out would be to find some darkcolored tyvek maybe homedepot not sure where I found it. and put it under the siding
If the barnwood looks good whynot put your finish on the inside??
steve


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

There's a thin foam product sometimes covered with foil that is used under siding that is a vapor barrier and insulation all in one

Google


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## KySam (Dec 1, 2009)

If you want to put a vapor barrier on use the tar paper versus tyveck.

You should put horizonal furring strips on the wall instead of screwing the metal right to the barn wall. This will give you a soild surface for screw the metal on.

If you attach the metal to the exsisting barn wood some wheres down the wall you WILL hit that 1/2 gap and will have to move the screw or have to put another in to hit wood. 

I like my work to look nice and uniform thats why I would attach furrowing strips so I know I will hit soild wood.


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## smith8833 (Dec 16, 2011)

Thanks for the replies,
Lurking for a while lots of information to glean from all the other posts!

The heating will be... sometimes, only during use, with wood and very seldom window AC!

The wood is weathered beyond saving on most of it but is oak and still solid! I will be putting furring strips in some locations!

Already have the tar paper/roofing felt from other projects!

Will be using the reflective bubble stuff under the roofing

To refrase the question is the vapor barier needed to protect the wood from the metal/condensation?
Or will it breath better without it?

This whole vapor/condesation/moisture thing is new. Spent the last 20+ in New Mexico now in Arkansas!?!?


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## nathan104 (Nov 16, 2007)

Use 1x4's horizontally as furring strips. Dont atttach the tin directly to the old siding.


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## smith8833 (Dec 16, 2011)

Tried posting last night but it didn't load????
Thanks for the replies
Haven't posted just gleaning from everyone elses wisdom!!! Most everything is answered by more experience than I have!!
We moved from the dry southwest to Arkansas and this water/moisture/condensation thing is a pain!!
My question is... do I NEED a vapor barier to protect the wood? I don't want it rotting under the siding!
The barn is old and due to the air circulation it has had, everything has stayed dry and what is left has no rott!
Heating will only be occasional and with wood! The new roof will have the uderlayment/heat reflective bubble stuff !
SO can I put the metal directly on the wood or should I use the tar papper?


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## dirtman (Sep 15, 2011)

No advantage to putting a vapor barrier under the siding. Putting some sort of rigid insulation under the roof sheets will help prevent dripping from condensation which under certain temperature/humidity conditions can get real annoying.


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## MO_cows (Aug 14, 2010)

We covered our garage with corrugated steel, and DH used treated privacy fence boards instead of "raw" 1 X 4's. Snapped chalk lines to keep the rows of screws straight and make sure they went into the extra wood. Didn't use tar paper or vapor barrier on the walls. On the roof, put the steel right over shingles (1 layer). If the shingles weren't there, would have put tar paper over the sheathing. But on the walls, the air space created by the strips keeps condensation off the building walls.


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## smith8833 (Dec 16, 2011)

Thanks for the help!!!! Now I just need to get to work!!!


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