# Setting a driveway Gate



## DatacomGuy (Jan 19, 2016)

I need to set a driveway gate. Perhaps this weekend, after having a major theft on my property last week.

I've never done one before.. My vision being setting a 6x6.. 8-footer, 3 or 4 feet in ground on top of 8-10% of gravel with a belled hole at the bottom for concrete to grab and not work itself out over time.

Two posts, and a galvanized farm gate. We will eventually cover it in cedar and corrugated sheets for styling.. More on that later. Gates will mount via threaded bolts that'll go all the way through the 6x6's to prevent sagging.

I'm going to get a mighty mule gate operator with solar panel. Gate is 500ft from the house, and no power there. Trenching really isn't something i want to do.

I need to cover 12-feet wide at least. My thoughts were a single galv gate that is 12 feet wide.

Any tips, advice etc? Any input at all would be appreciative. I've never done this type of project, so it'll be a first. 

Thanks!


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Sounds like you researched it. I installed a gate like what you suggest in my old place, except I used PT 4x4 (3-1/2" true) for gate frame (6x6 for posts). Bolt hook and strap hinges...biggest ones I could find (12" straps I think). So easy to adjust the bolt hook hinge and sturdy. 
I did pound a few nails into bottom of PT post set into concrete. Also, wrapped it in tar paper...not sure if that made any difference. I think maybe tar sealer for concrete might be better...idk. 

I went with double leaf gate...I just liked the look better...lol
The gate is still going strong, after 10yrs, so I must have done something right (I walk past it on my walks with a neighbour). 

Since your going with metal frame for gate, won't bore you with details on making leafs. I would aim for as wide as possible...in case you need big trucks up your driveway...can they come straight in? 
If so, then 12' ought to be enough. 
I've been wanting to get a mighty mule gate setup for decades...just never got around to it. In my current place, I will be getting a mighty mule setup.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Found a pic:
Can't see strap hinges...on backside...can see bolt holes though. I think the bolt hook part was 5/8" at least.


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## IMFoghorn (Jan 28, 2012)

It sounds to me like you have a good plan. If you have to turn to get into your driveway I would consider a wide entrance and setting the gate back a several feet to allow bigger vehicles to make the turn.


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## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

2 posts and a brace panel with cross ties on the hinge side at least. Otherwise the weight of the gate will make the post lean and sage the gate over time.

WWW


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## mmoetc (Oct 9, 2012)

A twelve foot gate has some weight. And by the time you dress it with cedar and more metal it will have more. Make sure the hinges can support the weight you plan for. I'd beef up the support post to 8X8 and think about putting some kind of rolling wheel on the far end. Moving a twelve foot gate weighing hundreds of pounds on cheap hinges will be no picnic. Plan to make it easy for the least capable person doing it.


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## mrs whodunit (Feb 3, 2012)

> galvanized farm gate. We will eventually cover it in cedar and corrugated sheets for styling..


That will be heavy. IMO it would be better to buy steel square tubing and make your own gate frame.

IMO the pre-made gates nowadays are so cheap and weak that it won't hold up to your plan of covering it.

I work for a farmer and he has a lot of gates. The cheap ones are forever sagging, we are always going around tightening them up. Good quality dont take to sagging.


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## mrs whodunit (Feb 3, 2012)

Well casing if you can get it makes a great gate post. Sink it 4-5 feet deep and cement if possible.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

Telephone poles make good fence posts also, and can sometimes be bought from the local utility companies much cheaper than treated posts


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

Bolts all the way thru can let someone take off the nuts to remove the bolts and the gate, consider using lag screw gate holders..or hinges..


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## Raeven (Oct 11, 2011)

I have pretty much the set-up you're looking to install. My gate is 14 feet hinged on one side only, all steel posts set in concrete 3 feet around, 5 feet deep. Hinges are massively heavy duty, the pin kind, with grease zirks to keep them lubricated. My gate was custom made by a friend, weighs 350 lbs.

Even with all that, the posts do move a tiny bit from weather changes. The whole concrete she-bang moves. Mighty Mules are touchy -- even a quarter inch can really mess with their operation.

Here's my best advice for this set-up:

1. Put turnbuckles on all sides of the gate that will bear weight. I have them on both sides of the gate and directly behind the post to which the gate is attached. Trust me; you'll use them. All of them.

2. Save yourself the cost of a solar setup. Or if you insist on doing it that way -- and you might have better luck than I did, owing to our different weather -- quadruple the power you think you'll need. That includes solar panel and batteries. If the gate is going to get a lot of use, just throw in the towel at the outset and start trenching. My nearest power source was 700+ feet from the gate. I lumped along on the solar for years, fiddle, fiddle, fiddle. Finally trenched and hardwired last year. No regrets, never had a failure since. The solar set-up makes a nice back-up system.

3. You'll never regret making your gate a little larger. Think of all the big trucks that may need to get through your gate: Hay trucks, delivery trucks, fire trucks (hopefully not!). And yes, the setback is important.

4. These gates keep out people who are just casually looking for whatever they're looking for. They won't keep out a determined criminal. I've never suffered a theft, but I think that's down to a lot of measures I've taken to discourage theft/property encroachment, of which the gate was only one. It's been a great one, though. Sure stopped all the casual lookie-loos.

5. The addition of a rolling wheel is a great suggestion, if your landscape situation allows it. Mine doesn't.

6. The Mighty Mule tolerances as I mentioned previously are quite slim. You don't get a lot of forgiveness for things in the install being a "little bit" off. Take your time over every aspect of the install to save yourself a ton of headaches down the track. Also, keep a good supply of fuses handy. 

Hope it all goes well!


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

RonM said:


> Bolts all the way thru can let someone take off the nuts to remove the bolts and the gate, consider using lag screw gate holders..or hinges..


To each their own, but I dislike lags...never quite sure what kind of holding power you get with them, even when properly installed (hit a soft patch of wood, hole not perfect etc). 
I'm all about through bolts (period). If one is worried about someone walking off with gate, one can hammer ends to make getting the nut off impossible or if big enough bolt, drill a hole through it and put a lock on it or even weld something to end (former option is easiest and best). 
If someone wants your gate, they will get it, no matter what you do...
Actually, I think you can alarm the mighty mule??? So if someone gets that far, an alarm will go off.

Forgot bolt hinge can be lifted...I've seen folks weld a washer to top of bolt that supports strap hinge. But seriously, I've never heard of anyone ripping off a gate...guess it depends where you live. 
I know mine would never be ripped off..weighed a ton, and it would be easy to find...lol
Not many look like mine. 
I will say mine required every 2-3 yrs a slight adjustment. Easy to do. And the 6x6 post was solid...could support gate and me swinging on end of it (that was the ultimate test and I'll always be a kid at heart...lol). My design with the diagonal lumber is what gave the gate it's strength.


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## mrs whodunit (Feb 3, 2012)

Bolts are better than lags IMO for gates. 

They are adjustable which is great. Seems gates often need adjusting.


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

Depends on whether you want to do it once, right, or come back in 5-10 years and do it over.

Right is use steel.....either 6" well casing as suggested, or I-beam....I used 6x6 I beam, set in a couple yards of concrete on each side to hold the post, and as a footer for my rock. Been there 30 years, no doubt in my mind it will be there another 30.

If you pour concrete around wood, it will likely rot unless you live in a fairly arid climate....the concrete holds moisture around the wood and promotes rot even in treated...and today's AQC "treated" lumber is a joke....if you go wood, look for ground rated CCA treatment, I can still find that at the farm store. If you don't use concrete, it will almost certainly wiggle loose.

I'm not impressed with linear actuator type openers for the long haul. I had a pair of Genie built ones (no longer made) that were MUCH more stout than the 'mighty mule' variety, and they were nothing but trouble. For one thing, they have to mount on the post, close to the pivot point, and that requires LOT of torque to open the gate....a heavy gate, they just don't hold up. These had a circuit board on them, that got fried from lightning/static electricity on a regular basis.

So I studied gate openers real close. Go look at gates into gated communities....you won't find a linear actuator type. They just don't hold up.

Came to the conclusion the ones (My gates are 10' each....master/slave) I wanted were OSCO....Operator Specialty Co. They mount on a pad back from the gate, have a 1/2hp motor belt drive to heavy duty right angle gear box, then a 1" shaft out of the top of the housing. A hinged arm (picture your arm from the shoulder down, pivot point like your elbow, you hand on the gate....that's it). The hinged arm type is what you'll find on light commercial swing gates.

NO electronic anything in it....all manual switches/relays, the exception being the radio receiver that trips the relay to start it open/close cycle....it's a Genie universal receiver, and has been replaced couple times....I keep spares so when it takes a hit, it's a quick replace, then reprogram the remotes to it. These openers have been on there 25 years now, with minimal maintenance.


I'd agree with Raeven....dig a ditch and run power. It's handy for security lighting too....when you pull up to my gate at night, flood lights light you up. Mine is 900' from the house straight down thru the woods, 1500' if I had gone around the drive. With ditch, you can also run a wired intercom, camera wire if you wish, and so on.

My gates are welded square tubing, made in my shop. (picture prior to openers)











Another thing you might want to consider since you've had a theft, are Dakota Alert MURS wireless driveway alerts. Best I've found after trying several. I know as soon as someone pulls up to my gate, even though I can't see them....plus couple more at different points up the drive so I know where the vehicle/person is until they become visible from the house. The transmission distance on these is several miles.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

TnAndy - I keep pics of things I like to have for homestead, gates being one of them...
Yours reminds me of this one:















Although, now I am leaning towards the aluminum frame jobs (square tube), with a nice teak stained cedar 'face', maybe with a minimalist design. 
Mainly because I want it to keep deer out (tie into a fence).


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## Raeven (Oct 11, 2011)

You all have beautiful gates! Mine looks like Herman Munster's, compared to them. I love the stonework on yours, *TnAndy*!

I may post a pic anyway, if I remember to snap one. Visuals always help when planning a project.


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## Nimrod (Jun 8, 2010)

I don't want my gate to say expensive things herein. I prefer a cheap, plain gate.

http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/dura-built-economy-r-gate/0000000046803

A young cannibal and his dad are walking through the jungle one day when a 747 flys over at low altitude. He wonders what it is and his dad tells him it's like a turtle. If you can get past the hard shell it's full of good things to eat.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Raeven said:


> You all have beautiful gates! Mine looks like Herman Munster's, compared to them. I love the stonework on yours, *TnAndy*!
> 
> I may post a pic anyway, if I remember to snap one. Visuals always help when planning a project.





Nimrod said:


> I don't want my gate to say expensive things herein. I prefer a cheap, plain gate.
> 
> http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/dura-built-economy-r-gate/0000000046803
> 
> A young cannibal and his dad are walking through the jungle one day when a 747 flys over at low altitude. He wonders what it is and his dad tells him it's like a turtle. If you can get past the hard shell it's full of good things to eat.


A neighbor of mine went about as cheap as one can in building a 'gate'....a $10 tarp hanging from a log supported by two vertical logs (logged from property I suspect). I think he stapled something heavy to bottom of tarp to keep it from flapping around too much. The years have bleached the tarp and logs. The tarp is starting to shred a bit. 

Some neighbors whine about it...Personally, I like his free spirit, and his place is a local landmark...I tell city folks visiting me if you pass that place, you've gone down the wrong road. 

OT story: he has a couple of rundown trailers on property, and in order to have one of them considered a 'home' it had to be on a 'foundation'. So, he jacks up one, and blocks it about 6' in the air...lol. I'm sure that gave the local bureaucrats fits in muni hall (and it is easy to see from a ways off...lol). I also think he has made local muni staff too scared to even visit him, never-mind putting up a fuss about it. 
We need more folks like him, lest our area become a hive of conformity.


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## fordy (Sep 13, 2003)

DatacomGuy said:


> I need to set a driveway gate. Perhaps this weekend, after having a major theft on my property last week.
> 
> I've never done one before.. My vision being setting a 6x6.. 8-footer, 3 or 4 feet in ground on top of 8-10% of gravel with a belled hole at the bottom for concrete to grab and not work itself out over time.
> 
> ...


 ...........IF , you use wood for posts , paint the bottom with roofing tar that will be set in cement ! Keep tar , usually in a one gallon bucket inside of your home , the warmer it is the easier it is to apply . I've even put the can into an oven on 'Warm' for an hour or so prior to application ! , fordy


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