# Septic Hold-ups in Closing....



## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

So my home-to-be, y'know, the one I can't stop thinking about almost literally 24/7, is within grasp but, as you can tell, there was a hiccup.

This property is 6ish acres and has two homes on the property (main house plus a fully updated and functioning guest house that I intend to have my mother live in). They have separate wells but shared septic tank.

Main house septic passed inspection fine; tank wasn't gunked inappropriately, water is flowing correctly and there's no clogs. Guest house? Not so much. Somewhere between the building and the tank there is a clog. Clog enough to have back flow into the septic pump in the crawl space. Now, thankfully, it doesn't appear that any meaningful back flow has happened and as the inspector noticed a gurgle and a couple dribbles of water coming out, he expedited a shut off of the water in the guest house. 

But! All this means to me is we're back to what is going to be a negotiation on the whole fixing of it. Whether seller pays to fix it, we agree to adjust price and we fix it afterwards (mom can just stay in main house with us until it's fixed so that's not a problem, or some other typical solution. 

But my concern is what if it's a massive issue? <<Hypothetical question, we're dealing with it as it comes up, no need to answer that question>>

My question IS, however, whats the worst poopy story of horror you guys have had with your septic systems? Curious to hear them because I'm a glutton for punishment I guess.

Thanks all! <3


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

Sounds like the sewage from second house goes into a pump station and is then pumped out to the septic.
Since it's a pumped system you probably either have an obstruction in the line between pump and septic tank, or the pump basin is plugged full. Probably not a huge expensive fix in either case. Plugged lines are a relatively easy inexpensive fix, worse case, maybe a bad pump station in second house that needs replaced.

I'd try to get the current owner to get this corrected prior to purchase.


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

Good luck on the septic....stuff like this will come along.
My crappy story.....

While working for a Mechanical contractor as a service guy......Had a slow Friday.
Was gonna knock off at noon, but decided to eat my lunch first.
I was a HVAC guy... the service dispatcher come out to the lunch area, to find all the plumbers had left for the week end....Just me.
Asked if I would take a call....so said "sure".

Then he tell me it was a sewage "grinder pump"...used where the house is lower that the city sewer......
It's a giant sump pump in a pit that grinds the do-do and other stuff....pumps it out and into a sewer.

Thought OH CRAP...literally.
Showed up...nice part of town....to find that alarm had been sounding.?
Checked everything over......pumped it down...OK...filled pit about 8 ft deep...with a garden hose...Still OK.

Then the guy tells me that the boss in the shop is a friend (looking for freebie?)...and he just had the pump replace by another contractor..???

Checked all the alarms but notice that the floats for ON/OFF were not at correct levels.....took his garden rake and adjusted them......refilled again...repeat process.

Next adjust was the proper setting....so....for good measure cycled it again.
Each fill was about 20 min's so now I almost on OT at 3;00.

Writing up his bill .....then he says to mark it on it, that the other guy had screwed it...and he shouldn't have to pay to repair it.
I just wrote up what I found....nothing more...don't need to go to court
Told him..."That fine...sign here"...was about $300 bucks.

Now he's talking about the boss being a friend..Told him..."Fine, that between you and him, but I need a signature so I can get paid".
Found that there are some well to do people that a cheap SOB's......LOL

Monday morning...all the guys were giving me a bad time about working on a graider, getting all "crappy".
Turned in my time.....and let them know that this job was about 2-1/2 hours of laying in the grass on a nice day, watching the pit fill up and cycle...with the guys wife bringing me lemonade.

They were surprised I didn't have to go down in the pit......
Let them know, that:
1) OSHA rules....need safety harness, tripos, respirator and crew....never go in the hole alone.

2) As I was lead on the job.. I would have to call them in (they had left for the weekend)...and I would be running the job....that means "You will be in the pit as I watch".

I was never asked to go out on those call again....and what was now known as "Friday afternoon bag of crap"..

Working under mobile homes get to be a crappy job as well.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

New2RuralHomesteading said:


> So my home-to-be, y'know, the one I can't stop thinking about almost literally 24/7, is within grasp but, as you can tell, there was a hiccup.
> 
> This property is 6ish acres and has two homes on the property (main house plus a fully updated and functioning guest house that I intend to have my mother live in). They have separate wells but shared septic tank.
> 
> ...


Can you clarify what you have all around? You have a sump pump in Main and Guest house? Or is Main House gravity? What did they inspect...I.e. did they inspect the septic tank and field?
Guest house has a sump pump? Does it have an control panel? Alarms go off? Did inspector switch to manual to drain sump pump tank? Some control panels have lights to tell what is wrong.
Getting your sump pump tank cleaned isn't a big deal (few hundred), but if the pump is shot, we are probably nearing a grand, as the tank has to be cleaned, pump pulled and replaced. Could be a clog in line from sump pump to septic tank. When you say there is a clog between house and tank...which tank are we talking about (sump pump tank or outdoor septic tank)?
Where did inspector notice dribbles? I don't suppose he unscrewed the sump pump tank (usually lots of bolts and seal)?

Personally, I would check to see pump still works by switching to manual, should hear a hum/light grinding noise from sump pump tank. If leakage was where house septic line goes into sump pump tank, then sump pump tank is full...probably in need of a cleaning. I'd get that cleaned (sucked out) and see where I am at. Have to anyways, if pump is shot or plugged or septic line from guest house going into sump pump tank is clogged (unless you have a cleanout near sump pump tank). Not impossible, but line from Guest house to septic tank don't usually plug as the pump grinds stuff before it goes into that line.

Aside: although your probably stuck with sump pumps for septic system, if septic field needs to be redone etc., I'd go gravity system if at all possible. And those thinking of building a home, think gravity system...sump pumps just add another layer of hassle to home ownership.


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## In The Woods (Apr 27, 2017)

You have two choices as mentioned - have the seller fix it or have them adjust the selling price so you can fix it.

If you have the seller fix it it may not be done properly in my opinion - they are going to go with the cheapest way to get the system to pass inspection.

I like the second option better. You get a qualified plumber to give you a hard quote on the repair and have the seller reduce the price by that amount. This way you have more assurance that it is done right.

But....you may not have that option - the seller can opt to fix it on their own without any say from you.


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

melli said:


> Can you clarify what you have all around? You have a sump pump in Main and Guest house? Or is Main House gravity? What did they inspect...I.e. did they inspect the septic tank and field?
> Guest house has a sump pump? Does it have an control panel? Alarms go off? Did inspector switch to manual to drain sump pump tank? Some control panels have lights to tell what is wrong.
> Getting your sump pump tank cleaned isn't a big deal (few hundred), but if the pump is shot, we are probably nearing a grand, as the tank has to be cleaned, pump pulled and replaced. Could be a clog in line from sump pump to septic tank. When you say there is a clog between house and tank...which tank are we talking about (sump pump tank or outdoor septic tank)?
> Where did inspector notice dribbles? I don't suppose he unscrewed the sump pump tank (usually lots of bolts and seal)?
> ...



I have to say, honestly, I do not know the answers to most of those. I will have the finished report tomorrow and if any of that is in there, then I'll know a little more throughly then. What I do know is that guest and main are on two separate wells but shared septic. Standard (so I'm told) 1k gallon tank. Main house is slab and has the pump tank, water softener, heating element (had to be informed that was to keep the lines from freezing because I just thought it was a courtesy light ::grimace:: ) and has a filtration system between softener and water tank (physically in between, im ignorant on the process step it falls in). Both houses set exactly the same except for guest house is on a crawl space and sump pump is in crawl. 

Three access line pipes plus riser-ed main tank opening. One line pipe clearly assists main house as it was clear and moving appropriately (as was the septic tank) but the other two access line pipes (linear in nature towards the guest house of course) were clogged and maybe 6-12" from overflowing. When inspector ran the water on inside the guest house (and this is after we knew there was at least a clog and/or unspecified destination from guest house to main tank) he hopped in the crawl space and and then came back up and turned water off. No sewage (that he could see) was around the pump and no active sewage spilling backwards out of the pump but the water was trying to begin trickling back up from pump. So I suspect, in my limited knowledge, it would've only been a matter of time before it did decide to sploo the poo.

Water tests came back good for main house. Guest house has bacteria in the well. In fairness, just found out the bacteria part about 1.5 hours ago, so that's news. But I never heard him mention any alarms and then the other terms you've used are still just a bit new to me. I've spent two hours today (amongst 37bazillion other things) handwriting class notes from all the things I've learned thus far about my well and septic. Inspector said I have a few well and that's a good thing (hope so and/or hope he's right) and said the septic tank looked really good and that a broken baffle had been repaired well in the past. But other than that, and all of the enzymes/bacteria/sulphur smelling/ironing out info I've grabbed, I've also determined my drainage fields (fingers is what I want to keep calling them  ) are in good shape at least in that the property grass and vegetation has no evidence of problems. 

And really while all of this is learning experience for me, I don't want you guys to dwell on the realtor/repairs part of it unless it sounds like something you've experienced or have a good idea about. 

Otherwise I just want others to commiserate with me in the poopy parts of rural living.

P.S. It may sound like I wasn't paying attention, but I have over 4-5 legal pad pages of notes from the home inspection. It started at about 10:30 but, unfortunately, by 1pm I was feverish and hacking a lung. By the time it wrapped up at 2:15 (45 minutes early due to incomplete septic inspections) I was near death. Found out yesterday that I had bronchitis (and I have asthma complications) and they're all yelling at me that being asthmatic is not something to allow hacking to take over. Whatever dude, I'm buying my dream house, no time for your negativity!" But I digress...


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

Welcome to life in the country.....


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

In The Woods said:


> You have two choices as mentioned - have the seller fix it or have them adjust the selling price so you can fix it.
> 
> If you have the seller fix it it may not be done properly in my opinion - they are going to go with the cheapest way to get the system to pass inspection.
> 
> ...


Oh yes, most definitely. I love my agent and she's the one I used when I bought my current house 5+ years ago. She's already mentally drafted a few options. I don't inherently want to use the sellers' chosen person because (clearly) his judgement might not be the best. And he may, like you mentioned, have gumption to do it anyway. But it'll still have to pass reinspection and water tests after the repairs so I like to hope that even if he pulls a fast one, it can still be checked. But there's options; he straight up just pays to fix it, while I still have a choice of having someone quote it, not guaranteed he'll use anyone he doesn't want to. Also have the escrow prepayment option, the reduction in price option and so forth. Ideally I just want it fixed and he doesn't have to dink around with negotiating a price, negotiating after repairs and any of that sort. I just know it's gonna have to be done before closing can happen as we're not using conventional/more lenient lenders; we're financing through VA home loans and (as a government entity) they're "funny" about anything and everything. And on something like this, I'm pleased they are. Just hope it resolves quickly. 

Which goes directly against the very nature of country services and providers ::laugh:: 

I'm just eager to close so I can start loading up this house and sell it. I bought it 5 years ago as a foreclosure. Had some TLC needs. I've done by hand all I could do (landscaping, wall repairs, etc) and then contracted out the more strenuous stuff. Paid house off with life insurance money from my then-deceased fiancé and now I'm actually selling with 50-70k more than I bought it for. Horrible that my daughters father/my fiancé died 6 months and 3 days short of our wedding date, but on a spiritual level I feel like his death is probably the only way I'm able to medically opt out from working and stay home on property and work on my new life. It's an emotionally tiring yet peaceful thing. And damned emotions in real estate is a curse.

But like I said to other poster; I've got the real estate aspect handled so that's not a problem. Was just wanting to commiserate on how these silly little (but loveably NOT government intruded) systems can make such a difference. If anyone has similar experiences with the problem(s) there, absolutely share with the class. Otherwise, this is my virtual passing of beverage-of-your-choosing conversation fodder.

And, to add more appreciation to your post, I had not thought of the whole "he'll fix it whether I want it done that way or not" option until you mentioned it. And truthfully, it's not something I'm willing to lose the property over but it would, in honesty, cause me to doubt the veracity of the repair. He seems like an okie dokie dude but he's still trying to come out on top. As I myself will be dealing with same position of selling MY home in the next 30-40 days, I can empathize with his position but just don't like it in the buyers position... should he choose to do that. 

As always, your guys' input is valued, thanks so much! 

<3


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

New2RuralHomesteading said:


> I have to say, honestly, I do not know the answers to most of those. I will have the finished report tomorrow and if any of that is in there, then I'll know a little more throughly then. What I do know is that guest and main are on two separate wells but shared septic. Standard (so I'm told) 1k gallon tank. Main house is slab and has the pump tank, water softener, heating element (had to be informed that was to keep the lines from freezing because I just thought it was a courtesy light ::grimace:: ) and has a filtration system between softener and water tank (physically in between, im ignorant on the process step it falls in). Both houses set exactly the same except for guest house is on a crawl space and sump pump is in crawl.
> 
> *Three access line pipes plus riser-ed main tank opening. One line pipe clearly assists main house as it was clear and moving appropriately (as was the septic tank) but the other two access line pipes (linear in nature towards the guest house of course) were clogged and maybe 6-12" from overflowing. When inspector ran the water on inside the guest house (and this is after we knew there was at least a clog and/or unspecified destination from guest house to main tank) he hopped in the crawl space and and then came back up and turned water off. No sewage (that he could see) was around the pump and no active sewage spilling backwards out of the pump but the water was trying to begin trickling back up from pump. So I suspect, in my limited knowledge, it would've only been a matter of time before it did decide to sploo the poo.*
> 
> ...


First, I just want to say congrats on taking on a rural lifestyle...there are sometimes issues with services, but they are not insurmountable. Bacteria in well, in the absence of a ton of minerals etc., just may mean the well water was stagnant for while, and well, bacteria grows everywhere. With a water softener and filter in main house, you probably have hard water. Many places do.
There are many ways to kill bacteria in a well (google 'well shocking' or 'shock chlorination').

I would read up on septic fields and look at diagrams of what one looks like. Those drain field pipes (fingers as you called them) are the end of the line of septic system. The 1000ga tank is the primary treatment (usually two chamber nowadays) and the resulting liquid is dispersed in your drain field. You might have a vent pipe or two at end of drain field, along with access points.

Still not sure how one could note water trickling back up from pump, as sump pump should be in a sealed tank (with a vent going outside). If for instance, you flushed a toilet, and water didn't drain, then one could surmise you have a plug in your house septic lines, the sump pump is clogged or the line to septic tank is clogged (unless sewage was coming out vent line, which should be outside). When a sump pump operates, it macerates the sewage and pumps it down a pipe (smaller than house septic lines) under pressure. The reason being, the houses are lower than the septic field, so a gravity system cannot be employed.

At any rate, I hope your bronchitis clears quickly, especially with asthma issues. Being able to breathe is all that matters, not some silly septic issue.
I'm sure you can get this resolved with some sleuthing. The great thing about having your own services, is you are self contained, and your taxes should be lower...when I went from a municipal supported system (water and septic), to my own, I lost a $700/yr bill. Albeit, I had build my own, but now done, I am confident I will never have to worry about them ever again, with the exception of getting my septic tank pumped once every ten years (solids), and maybe a new well pump every 20 yrs. The other bonus, is I have no meter on well, so I can use as much water as I need (muni water folks are now charged for how much water they use). 

Don't allow these issues to deter you from that fresh start.
Glad you got a well report! Bacteria is not necessarily a big deal...easily resolved. As long as you have no nasty or abundant metals and/or arsenic, boron etc., your good. A UV filter can take care of bacteria, but shocking guest house well would be first on my list (easy to do).


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## Hitch (Oct 19, 2016)

Just be glad you found it now. I would get some estimates on fixing the problem and have the seller fix them prior to close or discount the price of repairs. Either way, he has to account for it.


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

melli said:


> First, I just want to say congrats on taking on a rural lifestyle...there are sometimes issues with services, but they are not insurmountable. Bacteria in well, in the absence of a ton of minerals etc., just may mean the well water was stagnant for while, and well, bacteria grows everywhere. With a water softener and filter in main house, you probably have hard water. Many places do.
> There are many ways to kill bacteria in a well (google 'well shocking' or 'shock chlorination').
> 
> I would read up on septic fields and look at diagrams of what one looks like. Those drain field pipes (fingers as you called them) are the end of the line of septic system. The 1000ga tank is the primary treatment (usually two chamber nowadays) and the resulting liquid is dispersed in your drain field. You might have a vent pipe or two at end of drain field, along with access points.
> ...


It is totally possible that my understanding of what transpired is a wrong articulation lol he seemed pretty capable so I don't inherently distrust him though I did think he could've poked more holes to find the line. But then again, like he said, if he can't find it in the place it needs to be, then there's a couple of reasons why and neither of them are ideal. Hoping that more info from the seller will help alleviate half that mess and then I can feel a little less bugged by it all. I whole heartedly admit my public servant adult good has made me very skeptical of people's abilities/intentions/motivations lol.

I'm just glad it's found now and not after we'd moved in. Indiana (in the least) doesn't require inspections but they're just strongly recommended for any home buyer. I did it with current house and *fully* dedicated a hurting to my pocket book to ensure I had one done on this home. I'm walking into a completely different style of living and would want to make sure that I'm starting with a canvas capable of being painted ( *swoon*)

Admittedly I'm just in a rush to get the closing date underway so I can hurry up and start touching stuff around there. Don't fully know why I'm in a hurry to start a lifetime of grueling physical labor but truth be told, it's keeping me up at night just anticipating it. I'm having a hard time focusing my excitement long enough to figure out what I need to do first around there. Everything is basically fine, the house and land has just sat vacant for a while (in addition to having been a poor rental property for about 10 years) so there's grounds work, making the house mine with love and then next year I can start on making garden, caring for pond, getting some ducks and building coup.

I am thinking maybe working on fencing first before ground gets too hard and to ensure what belongs in, stays in, and what doesn't, stays out. 

Already looked into the full solar roofs through Tesla for an expensive but well worth it alternative to electric dependency. Already in love with the idea of not paying for water (albeit with its sensitivities lol) and to getting cracking on being more self sustainable. 

Such a nerd. But I'm in good company with you guys around! 

As always, thanks for the input!


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

Hitch said:


> Just be glad you found it now. I would get some estimates on fixing the problem and have the seller fix them prior to close or discount the price of repairs. Either way, he has to account for it.


Absolutely! He's the owner, whether he was last in the property or not, and I believe that it's his responsibility to ensure everything is functional (in the important areas; I'm less worried about a socket not working). I believe I would be responsible for anything in my home, pertinent to living, being fixed if a buyer asked me to do it. 

I also agree I'm glad I found it now. I started getting in the "phone book" and started my 1.5 hours of phone calls this morning to make every attempt at ensuring I have good and capable companies in hand should something pop up after close. I suppose I took your stance on it; have the quotes already known for worst case scenarios. Even found, through my overthinking pre-emptivity, that there's many options on finding and fixing any of these issues that could pop up again... it's an imperfect world and I want to be prepared for the worst while hoping for the best. 

Lord knows my ideal setup would include a minor 'prepping' lifestyle where, should SHTF, me and mine can stay safely in our property and survive just fine 

*daydream*

Thanks so much for your input <3


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## In The Woods (Apr 27, 2017)

I've only bought 2 houses in my life - yeah....I don't move much. I never had a home inspection done and was never offered. It seems now that it is the default when buying a house. Had I known about this I would have definitely opted to have it done.

Curious to know if you (the buyer) has to pay for the home inspection and a ballpark amount they charge. Also curious to know if the inspection is binding in any way - if it fails in any way you are then not committed to buy.


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## Hitch (Oct 19, 2016)

In The Woods said:


> Curious to know if you (the buyer) has to pay for the home inspection and a ballpark amount they charge. Also curious to know if the inspection is binding in any way - if it fails in any way you are then not committed to buy.


The buyer pays for the home inspection. We have always paid to have a home inspection and roof inspection done on any homes we've purchased. The home inspection runs around $300-$500 in our area. 

The only time we didn't do an inspection, was when we purchased a short-sale. The thinking was it was a newer home, only 10 or so years old and even if we did find something the bank wasn't going to repair it. So I did the home inspection myself using a downloaded template I got on the net. If you're pretty familiar with DIY home repairs you can do a lot yourself. 

I will say this about the one inspection I did myself, about a year later our HVAC compressor stopped getting cold. After calling out a repairman he showed me that a previous dog had used the compressor to piss on and it destroyed the coils. Something I didn't look closely at when I did the inspection even though the A/C functioned when tested. But again, even if I did find it at the time of inspection, the bank wouldn't have paid to repair.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Hitch said:


> The buyer pays for the home inspection. We have always paid to have a home inspection and roof inspection done on any homes we've purchased. The home inspection runs around $300-$500 in our area.
> 
> The only time we didn't do an inspection, was when we purchased a short-sale. The thinking was it was a newer home, only 10 or so years old and even if we did find something the bank wasn't going to repair it. So I did the home inspection myself using a downloaded template I got on the net. If you're pretty familiar with DIY home repairs you can do a lot yourself.
> 
> I will say this about the one inspection I did myself, about a year later our HVAC compressor stopped getting cold. After calling out a repairman he showed me that a previous dog had used the compressor to piss on and it destroyed the coils. Something I didn't look closely at when I did the inspection even though the A/C functioned when tested. But again, even if I did find it at the time of inspection, the bank wouldn't have paid to repair.


Deleted - realized coils are outside. 

I have to think a bona fide inspector would miss that one too.

Same here, buyer pays for everything. Usually, it is a 'subject clause' in sale. If inspection turns up gross deficiencies, sale is void unless seller wants to pay to have them fixed. Typical CYA of buyers, but in city, with competing bids, having any 'subject clauses' will likely put a buyer on the street. Invariably, with buyers being desperate, we have situations where they find out the home is a lemon. And it can be a nightmare in city with regs, getting it fixed. Not only does one find themselves on the hook for expensive repairs, they have to negotiate red tape (pay pay pay) with city bureaucracy to get a permit, to fix it. At least, in country, one can usually avoid the double hit.

In this day and age, I think we've become too compartmentalized...wasn't long ago, most folks actually built their own home, or were savvy enough to do repairs themselves. Now, many folks haven't a clue, other than how to paint a wall...even then...lol
OT - I gave a friend a job, to repaint a condo I just bought. I hate painting, and she insisted she was a pro at it. Since I was working like a dog, I figured why not. Well...a week later (700sqft condo) I had a condo with 'texture'. Seems she missed wiping down walls after sanding out bumps. Back in the day, when bright colours were the thing. Could not only feel the sandpaper walls, but see them...lol. Of course, I had to move in right away, so I couldn't fix it.


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

Same thing here; I ordered an inspection on my current home because it was just short of necessary through FHA; if there's any "gross deficiencies" then Fannie and Freddie would've noped the loan. For the record, as someone else said, anything bank owned is a situation where the bank isn't going to fix the issues. Then, in that situation, the home essentially a goner for the prospective buyer because, also oxymoronic, FHA won't let you repair the issues to clear the purchase. Their logic? You don't own the home, it's not okay for you to do renovations on something you don't own. So then what happens is that any government backed loans (FHA, HUD, VA) are not going to clear the sale. Only conventional loans will allow it to pass through without the repairs. And an AC unit is enough to block a sale ::eyeroll::

Inspections (if disclosed to sellers) and appraisals remain on file for the house/property for a period of six months. So if the repairs aren't done to the home, any government backed lender will not approve the loan. So then, unless repairs are done, then conventional loans/cash purchases only, period, point blank. 

Experience has been (at least mine and that of anyone around me) is that barring any home being a foreclosed/bank owned home, the sellers are pretty cooperative on repairs. Because to not make the repairs means that they are stuck with only a select group of potential buyers and if they want to sell the home in any kind of reasonable time, they will agree to do the repairs. If they don't then they will have to wait six months and will ultimately encounter the same outcome. 

There's many ways to resolve the repairs; it can be escrowed into the loan where the seller basically pre-pays the cost of the repair into the buyers "account". Or they can make the repairs prior to close (instances where it's a government backed loans and has to pass inspection), or they can agree to pre-pay for the repairs and allow the buyer to pay for the repairs after closing. The latter only being acceptable on conventional loans. 

I am not a real estate agent, and my information could absolutely be askew, however my current home and this upcoming purchase or both government backed loans. So I have had to make sure the loops and hoops have been jumped through both times. First time FHA loan and this time VA loan. 

Of note, VA loans are apparently a bit more stringent on things and even require that the seller pays for a termite inspection on the property. Could be an entirely concrete building but they are still requiring the seller to pay for a termite inspection. 

As for my inspection on this current purchase to be? I ended up paying $1100 because it was about $500 per house since there are two houses on the property. But the inspection included radon, septic and well tests/inspection, and your typical house inspections. It hurt the pocketbook but I think finding about the well and septic issues were the justification I needed to not feel so salty about the price.


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## In The Woods (Apr 27, 2017)

Thanks or the responses about home inspections - if there ever is another purchase in my future I will insist on one.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

New2RuralHomesteading said:


> Same thing here; I ordered an inspection on my current home because it was just short of necessary through FHA; if there's any "gross deficiencies" then Fannie and Freddie would've noped the loan. For the record, as someone else said, anything bank owned is a situation where the bank isn't going to fix the issues. Then, in that situation, the home essentially a goner for the prospective buyer because, also oxymoronic, FHA won't let you repair the issues to clear the purchase. Their logic? You don't own the home, it's not okay for you to do renovations on something you don't own. So then what happens is that any government backed loans (FHA, HUD, VA) are not going to clear the sale. Only conventional loans will allow it to pass through without the repairs. And an AC unit is enough to block a sale ::eyeroll::
> 
> Inspections (if disclosed to sellers) and appraisals remain on file for the house/property for a period of six months. So if the repairs aren't done to the home, any government backed lender will not approve the loan. So then, unless repairs are done, then conventional loans/cash purchases only, period, point blank.
> 
> ...


Good info.
Getting a qualified inspection is the only way to go if one is not house savvy. Of course, finding a qualified inspector can be a challenge. Up here, there is a move to having certified inspectors, as anybody with a cellphone could be one in past. I thought about getting into that, but the BI deterred me. Said there was a lot of headaches with being an inspector. Carrying real good liability insurance was one issue. Getting sued was another...lol
Can be hard inspecting a house where one cannot see ALL the 'dirt'. Plus, one is usually referred by a real estate agent, and the pressure to pass a marginal home is high. Short of punching holes in walls, one is looking at the cosmetics. Sort of thankful I am building my own right now, as I know absolutely everything. With an inspector, they have to make an educated guess. They have to infer from looking at skin, that the core is sound, especially if house is fully finished. Almost better to have an unfinished basement, so one can see foundation, framing, some of the electrical, plumbing and HVAC. Then one can tell (for the most part) if it those parts were done by a pro or a weekend warrior. My beef is with foundations, as I've seen too many homes with crappy foundations, and without a good foundation, one is building on top of crap, which is a sin, in my book...lol.

Plus, doing foundation work, after the house is build, is an absolute pain (was one of my first jobs as a kid, doing a reno, and the foundation needed to be re-done). 
Plus, you can guess where I ranked on the totem pole being a newbie. I was the person digging...lol

In my mind, an inspector should be a former builder, one who has not only built home, but has done mechanical work also. And not one who has been part of crew, but the lead. They will know what is code compliant in all facets. And hopefully, they will sit down with prospective buyer and explain their credentials, and what they can inspect, and what they cannot, unless they have approval to make 'inspection portals'. Even bona fide builders make mistakes. I had a gig repairing deficiencies in a tract development. Some things were not even on the radar of state appointed in-course building inspectors (dissimilar metals/PT wood caused flashing degradation via electrolytic reaction). Aside: it is how I became friends with a gov building inspector.

Getting those inspections is worth every penny, if done well. And them checking Radon (in a Radon prone area) is well worth it, as that would be a bugger to fix after the fact! As long as the septic system was built properly, repair isn't a nightmare expense. And the bacteria in well, especially if house sat unused for a spell is no biggie either. I assume they checked well for 'nasties', other than bacteria. Easy to mitigate bacteria, provided well casing is not being breached (surface water getting into well). Best.


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

melli said:


> Good info.
> Getting a qualified inspection is the only way to go if one is not house savvy. Of course, finding a qualified inspector can be a challenge. Up here, there is a move to having certified inspectors, as anybody with a cellphone could be one in past. I thought about getting into that, but the BI deterred me. Said there was a lot of headaches with being an inspector. Carrying real good liability insurance was one issue. Getting sued was another...lol
> Can be hard inspecting a house where one cannot see ALL the 'dirt'. Plus, one is usually referred by a real estate agent, and the pressure to pass a marginal home is high. Short of punching holes in walls, one is looking at the cosmetics. Sort of thankful I am building my own right now, as I know absolutely everything. With an inspector, they have to make an educated guess. They have to infer from looking at skin, that the core is sound, especially if house is fully finished. Almost better to have an unfinished basement, so one can see foundation, framing, some of the electrical, plumbing and HVAC. Then one can tell (for the most part) if it those parts were done by a pro or a weekend warrior. My beef is with foundations, as I've seen too many homes with crappy foundations, and without a good foundation, one is building on top of crap, which is a sin, in my book...lol.
> 
> ...


Truth be told I'm uncertain what the well tests included beyond the typical E.Coli and such. I know that it was sent off to a lab for testing and took a few days for results but at least main house (where we will actually be living once we close) is clear on bacteria and septic woes. 

But now I'm worried about other nasties LOL 

Ive asked some around me if it's possible that the bacteria is because the backup is going into the well water. They say yes, but like you, reference that it's not uncommon for dormancy to peak a gross bacterium's interests. But then now you said it too. 

That's it, it's time for me to go all "House Whisperer" and rub the guest house and pet its ego; "tell me all of your secrets! What did they do to you? It's okay, momma will take care of you." 

You know, just so it knows I don't want residential melodrama. I've got a 9 year old daughter; I've got plenty of theatrics already ::snort::


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

New2RuralHomesteading said:


> Truth be told I'm uncertain what the well tests included beyond the typical E.Coli and such. I know that it was sent off to a lab for testing and took a few days for results but at least main house (where we will actually be living once we close) is clear on bacteria and septic woes.
> 
> But now I'm worried about other nasties LOL
> 
> ...


Yeah, if sent off to lab, you should have got a copy of that report...
A lab will do whatever tests you want. Cost me $200 for the full panel (everything). 
Given mine was a new well, I wanted a baseline test...I will test it next year now that is has been operating for a year. 
What type of well do you have? Depth? Size? Know your soil type etc. 
Yeah, a sitting well will have stagnant water and that is a bacteria's paradise. I wouldn't get wound up over it. I'd shock it and see what you have. 
Septic backing up into well? I'd think not, unless septic line (house to septic tank to drain-field) has a break, septic field is full, septic tank overflowing (unlikely), too close to well (how far approx?). There are setback requirements, so I'd think your ok there. Here, well and septic field have to be 100' apart *min. *I put my septic field downhill of EVERYTHING...lol. Quite honestly, I don't care if mine leaks....haha. It will just head towards driveway entrance (one really long drain field). I'm on bedrock, so everything goes downhill and my well should never get breached (I'm on top of a hill). Some folks are sitting on flat land, silt, sand type soil which allows surface water to perc down. 
What is the topography of your place? Is septic field downhill from well, and where are houses relative to both. 
Don't get wound up yet...
It may be the sump tank pump clogged or needs a pump out (cleaning). Or someone threw a sanitary napkin down toilet...
Basically, if your septic drain-field is really green, wet and smells, then I would be concerned. If the green patch over septic field goes to well, then I'd worry...lol. Doesn't sound like that is the case for you. It just sounds like no one has used your guest house for a spell.


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

New2RuralHomesteading said:


> Truth be told I'm uncertain what the well tests included beyond the typical E.Coli and such. I know that it was sent off to a lab for testing and took a few days for results but at least main house (where we will actually be living once we close) is clear on bacteria and septic woes....


Most "typical" well tests DO NOT include e. Coli. They do include total coliform. To have a positive result for total coliform from a water well sample is quite common if the well hasn't been shocked (disinfected) for a few years.


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## Meinecke (Jun 30, 2017)

And even if it comes back positive...i would never let a pump guy or anyone else drop chlorine in my well...
Saw that at neighbors house...still tastes (after a year) like pool water...
I would rather get a big ass UV light and a Filter.


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

Meinecke said:


> And even if it comes back positive...i would never let a pump guy or anyone else drop chlorine in my well...
> Saw that at neighbors house...still tastes (after a year) like pool water...
> I would rather get a big ass UV light and a Filter.


Evidently, the guy had absolutely no idea what he was doing.


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## Meinecke (Jun 30, 2017)

It was one of these pool pucks he threw down in the pump...and said after 1-2 hours constant water running it should be gone...


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

A 3-inch puck is equivalent to about 13 cups (+/-) of liquid bleach. Most household plumbing systems and wells only need 2 to 3 cups of bleach for disinfection. (From: http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/wells/waterquality/disinfection.pdf)


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Meinecke said:


> It was one of these pool pucks he threw down in the pump...and said after 1-2 hours constant water running it should be gone...


Haha...sorry, that is funny (the action of well guy). 
He had to have been a pool guy in masquerade. That would take a while to clear up. My BI neighbor uses non scented liquid bleach. Backflushes it, then lets it sit, then pumps it out. Not complicated...many good sites explain how to do it. 

With you on UV light, although I don't have one. Another neighbor has one, but she draws from a lake, which definitely needs it.


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

Aha! I got the water test back today; negative for E. coli and positive for total coliforms. I guess they only checked for total coliforms and E. coli according to this page in my hand. From what I can tell based on the Google and what you guys are saying; it is tying hand-in-hand with that property having sat for a while. It was just the two tests though; total Coliforms and E. Coli. 

Positive for he former, negative for the latter. 

I'm trying to be optimistic that it means there's no poo in the well water. Just hope it doesn't mean what the internet says that the surface water isn't improperly getting into the well. I sortve figured all water ended up in the well but understand a touch more now, than I did at onset of this thread, I believe they mean that it didn't go through the filtration of the soil/mud/aquifer etc.

It's an "easy" fix, I'm sure. I'm just ready to have the keys lol

Stupid impatience 




Cabin Fever said:


> Most "typical" well tests DO NOT include e. Coli. They do include total coliform. To have a positive result for total coliform from a water well sample is quite common if the well hasn't been shocked (disinfected) for a few years.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

New2RuralHomesteading said:


> Aha! I got the water test back today; negative for E. coli and positive for total coliforms. I guess they only checked for total coliforms and E. coli according to this page in my hand. From what I can tell based on the Google and what you guys are saying; it is tying hand-in-hand with that property having sat for a while. It was just the two tests though; total Coliforms and E. Coli.
> 
> Positive for he former, negative for the latter.
> 
> ...


Having negative on E. Coli is a good sign. Coliforms are present in most water bodies. 
I can only imagine your chomping at the bit...lol
In time...best


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

New2RuralHomesteading said:


> Aha! I got the water test back today; negative for E. coli and positive for total coliforms. I guess they only checked for total coliforms and E. coli according to this page in my hand. From what I can tell based on the Google and what you guys are saying; it is tying hand-in-hand with that property having sat for a while. It was just the two tests though; total Coliforms and E. Coli.
> 
> Positive for he former, negative for the latter.
> 
> ...


You have the keys yet?


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

melli said:


> You have the keys yet?


I close on the house in *literally* 4 hours and 15 minutes (not that I'm counting ) 

It's been a ridiculously long road to this point and I could barely sleep last night. I'll post when it's done so we can jump up and down, in the virtual world, together ❤


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

Oh! But on final walk through I did last night, septic was cleared, new sump put in and the water tests from last week all indicate we're not drinking poo water anymore. Yay!


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## Meinecke (Jun 30, 2017)

Congrats...lucky you...i am still sitting in similar situation...
Enjoy the new home!


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## In The Woods (Apr 27, 2017)

New2RuralHomesteading said:


> I close on the house in *literally* 4 hours and 15 minutes (not that I'm counting )
> 
> It's been a ridiculously long road to this point and I could barely sleep last night. I'll post when it's done so we can jump up and down, in the virtual world, together ❤


Sounds like you should be a pround new owner now!


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

I am! And the absolute neatest thing I've ever seen/experienced with the transfer of the keys was the simultaneous transfer of three boxes of photos. Inside? The photos of the property (back in 60's) being plowed down to make way for a home property. Photos of them rolling the dirt and laying the slab. Pictures of building the house. Of them on an awesome looking Ford tractor making the pond. And then? 30 subsequent years' worth of pictures of upgrades in progress. When they laid the brick walkway. When they were building the screened porch. At one point there was a third decorator type pond; pictures of its progress and then subsequent photos where they've filled it in and decided they wanted white lattice patio porch and just so on and so forth. I pert near got teary eyed! I asked if I could hug her, of course she wanted some of my awesome hugs, and we chatted about different things on the property. They aren't the original owners, heck they're not even the second set. But the second set found the photos, added their own to them and passed them on at their closing. And then, again, passing them on to me. 

I can't explain why but I think I'm equally as excited about the pictures as I am the property (*snort*) 

It's so awesome.


And yes, I now own it! ((Fist pump))


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

New2RuralHomesteading said:


> I am! And the absolute neatest thing I've ever seen/experienced with the transfer of the keys was the simultaneous transfer of three boxes of photos. Inside? The photos of the property (back in 60's) being plowed down to make way for a home property. Photos of them rolling the dirt and laying the slab. Pictures of building the house. Of them on an awesome looking Ford tractor making the pond. And then? 30 subsequent years' worth of pictures of upgrades in progress. When they laid the brick walkway. When they were building the screened porch. At one point there was a third decorator type pond; pictures of its progress and then subsequent photos where they've filled it in and decided they wanted white lattice patio porch and just so on and so forth. I pert near got teary eyed! I asked if I could hug her, of course she wanted some of my awesome hugs, and we chatted about different things on the property. They aren't the original owners, heck they're not even the second set. But the second set found the photos, added their own to them and passed them on at their closing. And then, again, passing them on to me.
> 
> I can't explain why but I think I'm equally as excited about the pictures as I am the property (*snort*)
> 
> ...


Awesome! I sent pics (digital age) to the new owners of my old place, as I had 'birth' pics onward. 
You must scan some pics and post them. 
Congratulations!!!

Now you can add your pics/memories. Best, Melli


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

Just wanted to confirm that I am indeed in the home, living in it and enjoying all of the "fun" that comes with well water. Septic has been perfectly fine with no glitches and I've already got the go to on who,when and how much for the eventual sucking out of the solids. 

The well water, however, has me completely at odds. I am a novice to well systems and I've done crap tons of internet research and youtube explanation videos but I still have no stinking clue about what is really what out there in my garage. 

I know there's a water softener (Sears guy referred to it as the brine system where salt and water is one tank and then there's another tank? Who knows). I know what the well tank is (understanding that the water pump brings the well water into the tank and then the hot water heater/cold water tap draws from that, right). I can't confirm what specifically there is for the filtration system and so I'm definitely open to suggestions on what you guys have used to help filter out sulphur stink and or any excess iron. Obviously (as none of us are) I'm not overloaded with money and so I've ruled out the tankless water heater options for now, I've confirmed the water softener system works (albeit I don't care for it) and I'm working on replacing the hot water anode to one of those aluminum/zinc combos in an effort to try and unstinky my water. I'm noticing that the washer and the refrigerator are spectacular at filtration and there's no stinky water at all in those (LG fridge, samsung laundry set) but that tells me that extra filtration is a key element to this whole smelly water gig. 

And, not to be needy, but if you guys have suggestions (which I know from above, you guys are so stinkin' "on it" about things so you probably will) would you mind giving examples or speaking like I'm dense. I'm not dense but I'm definitely new enough to all of this I would simply be doing the head nod that people do when they speak a different language than the speaker and have no clue what is being said. "Yup, yeah, sure, great, sounds awesome!" (meanwhile internally, "HUH!??!")

I'm not against calling out someone and paying them to look at the system, make suggestions and what not but I know their job (literally) would be to help sell their products/services and so I figure unbiased information would be better. Plus, how silly would it be if I called Culligan (for example) and said "hey, I don't really want you to do anything and I don't want any stuff right now, but could you come and tell me what things are, how they work and what I should be doing?" 

I mean, I know there's a pump, a pump heater, pressure valves and what not but I wouldn't know the first thing about what to do with any of those things and lord knows winter is around the corner and I'm simply one ignorantly blissful neglectful act away from a frozen, busted or otherwise inoperable system. 

*fret fret fret fret*


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

oh! and does it mean anything inherently bad when the water is sort of slow? 

Great pressure in the kitchen sinks, bathroom downstairs, master bath and bathtub faucet in kiddo's bathroom.

Her shower and sink are near inoperable due to subpar pressure. I figure some of this to be iron/calcium buildup so I'm going to be CLR/vinegarring the aerators and nozzles and such. But I also noticed the refrigerator water dispenser is STUPID slow. 

Now, I'm no snob and if it's simply a matter of difference in hugely pressurized city water vs the slow, has-to-be-brought-up-from-below well water, then so be it. But since I've been relying on the refrigerator for filtered water for cooking and drinking, there are times that I'm standing there next to the fridge forevvvvvvver. I have 7 standby filters for the fridge so it isn't an issue if I need to replace the filter but man, it shouldn't be that bad in what is like 10 days of use.... 

Who knows... certainly not I


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

New2RuralHomesteading said:


> Just wanted to confirm that I am indeed in the home, living in it and enjoying all of the "fun" that comes with well water. Septic has been perfectly fine with no glitches and I've already got the go to on who,when and how much for the eventual sucking out of the solids.
> 
> The well water, however, has me completely at odds. I am a novice to well systems and I've done crap tons of internet research and youtube explanation videos but I still have no stinking clue about what is really what out there in my garage.
> 
> ...


Pics of your setup would be helpful...

The *'well tank*' is called a pressure tank. Have you check the pressure? Should be a schrader valve (just like what you see on a car/bicycle tire) on top of tank. Get a pressure reading from that. The tank is pressurized (i.e. it is what gives your whole water system pressure). If the pressure isn't right in that tank, you will have water pressure issues.

Is water clear? When toilet or tub fills with water, any slight water discoloration? Are you saying there are filters for each appliance?

Changing HWT anode won't change smell of water. Anode in HWT is to keep HWT from dissolving (give it a long life). Anode protects HWT from rusting out.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Ideally, for well water with fines in it, a whole house filter is best...saves you changing filters on all your appliances. Plus, it keeps all your appliances happy. I had my washer acting up...internal valve in washer wouldn't close because over time, sediment stopped valve in washer from closing, so washer would leak (I'd have to turn off tap to washer). With a whole house filter, problem solved. 
Here is an example (mine):








Now, you may have one...looks similar to silver one in pic. Probably similar in size, but made of plastic. Should be in vicinity of pressure tank. Inside stainless steel canister (bottom winds off) is a filter, about a foot long, and ~3" wide. You can get filters of varying specs (microns) depending on what kind of sediment is entering your system.


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## In The Woods (Apr 27, 2017)

As far as the iron and sulpher smell, you are going to be at the mercy of a water treatment company. A sample needs to be taken and analyzed - then they recommend the equiment needed. To remove iron will take another system similar to and added to your water softener.

http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/blog/remove-iron-manganese-odor-from-your-well-water-step-3/

Low water pressure is common with a well compared to city water but doesn’t have to be. First thing as noted above is to check the pressure in the bladder tank. It should be around 18# for a typically sized residential tank. But it sounds like you have other issues down stream. If it is a long run to the kitchen, and there is only 1/2” pipe in that run, this will significantly drop the pressure by the time it reaches the kitchen.

Filling a pot of water is not what a refrigerator dispenser is made for - it is for filling a glass full of water. It is made to fill slowly so you don’t get a gush of water into your glass. Why not just fill the pot from the kitchen sink?


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

So I have to start with a preliminary, but SUPER relevant, update. I went to take some pics of the filtration setup so I could identify and learn more about it (with the input you guys are giving) and wouldn't you just know it....

IT'S COMPLETELY GONE!

Missing.

Ghosted.

Send out the search team because there's not even any real evidence it ever existed...

If it weren't for the fact that when I do walkthrough's, I use my phone camcorder and record videos (helps me review things later when I can play it back and listen to my questions/comments said aloud). I went into my phone and voila! One did exist on (at least) 8/26 and today it does not. There's been someone on the property since the first week of October so I don't think this is a recent filter system kidnapping; I immediately suspected it was abducted when the water heater anode was removed

I went back and reviewed our agreed upon Inspection Report Responses (where we make requests on repairs and they agree/counteroffer) because I just could've SWORN this was specifically supposed to (EXIST) be working and what not. 

#5 of our agreement (as to the main house) says specifically that they shall install a water filtration system (and ensure it's operational) that removes the smell and sediments. If one already existed, then there needed to be proper maintenance done to ensure it's functionality and that a new filter needed to be installed.

#5 was agreed to, as-is, with no counter.

Called both agents to inquire about it. Seller's agent was aware that the filter system had been removed but, according to the contractor, it wasn't functional and that is why he removed it and simply took out the magnesium anode rod. Seller's agent believed us to have known this but added that he was assured by the contractor that it would remedy the smell. 

I had never been told about the filtration system other than the seller's agent telling me that the area had been subject to some earthquake aftershocks some odd years ago and that it shifted the plates or something because the entire community had to get filtration systems installed. Their wells became sulfur smelling immediately that night. He says they were all simple systems and that you change the filter if/when you start smelling the 'eggs' again. He lives at the end of the county road I live on so I have no reason to doubt his knowledge on the area's water woes. 

But why on God's Green Earth would a contractor just go 'oh, well that's not working, hmmm get rid of it, they'll never notice."

Blargh.

There's multiple factors that could've led to this oversight and not least of which includes the fact that I didn't specifically look for the filtration system when I did final walkthrough. It's removal hadn't been mentioned/I'd had no reason to suspect it wouldn't be right where it belonged, I knew the anode rod had been yanked and the contractor was very convinced it would eliminate the problem, and so it seemingly went unnoticed.

Until today. 

When I realized that a dingo stole my filter baby. 

Agents are hashing it out tomorrow and I'm relieved about it even if I'm miffed that this whole 2 month long saga of sulfur has only been because of an incongruous shortcut. 

But also I'm peeved they kidnapped my magnesium anode rod, blaming it as the sulfuric smelling bully, and now my water heater has had a breeze through its apple orchard for nothing (LOL).

Good lord I'm exhausted... this whole thing nearly consumed half of my day and that doesn't even include the 20 minutes it took to tunnel a way through boxes in the garage to even GET to the scene of the water filtration crime.... 


Oi vey


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

melli said:


> Pics of your setup would be helpful...
> 
> The *'well tank*' is called a pressure tank. Have you check the pressure? Should be a schrader valve (just like what you see on a car/bicycle tire) on top of tank. Get a pressure reading from that. The tank is pressurized (i.e. it is what gives your whole water system pressure). If the pressure isn't right in that tank, you will have water pressure issues.
> 
> ...


Aside from finding out that I now lack both an anode rod AND a filtration system, I can gladly say there's been no sediments noticed in the tubs/basins/toilets, etc. The water is perfectly clear. There does seem to be a mild orange hue (presumably iron buildup) on the bottom of the toilet bowls and on the shower head of my daughter's lackluster shower. I have not gotten around to soaking/cleaning them to see if they need replaced entirely or just cleaned out and debris removed. Faucet aerators are the same ones that were here before I closed on house and some of them have that orange hint floating around but nothing too crazy.

We flushed the hot water heater this past weekend and for the love of cheese, I'm glad I have a gravel driveway... there was so much sediment coming out it actually, legitimately, left a mild little pile of white sandy desert mounds for the local bug life. In fact, it was so full of sediment that we had to unclog the hose (good ol' spurt of air up the 'tailpipe' of the hose does wonders for giggles, blockage clearing AND imminent messes when the clog makes way for the sandy water to blast you in the stomach  )

Today I poked around in the well/water closets and I came away with the following:

1.) That the closets have got to be the original closets these things were tucked away in back in 1968; lots of wear and tear on 
the walls/insulation/etc. Made list to work on bettering those conditions come spring/summer. 

2.) I have no water filtration system in place whatsoever (unless there's an added one in the water softener itself) 

3.) Pressure Tank (thanks for the correction on that btw) was noted to be 23 years old (due to be replaced anytime after 20 years, so I've been told). I found a crud covered pressure valve attached to it towards the bottom but I don't know if that's an accurate gauge. I will investigate more thoroughly in the next 36-48 hours once I find my tire pressure gauge and a step stool to stand on (the tank is a good 1-2 feet taller than I am). (see pic)

4.) Water softener is from 1999 but had no stinking info on who made it but it did have the specs on it (see pic)
5.) Water Heater (A.O.Smith 50 gallon) is from July 2016.
6.) What I believe is the electrical box for the pump is pictured and it's from 1994 (eeep!)
7.) and of course I'm attaching pics of the crime scene from where I was burgled of a filtration system (  )

So my cruddy little setup (pending the correction of a filtration system) is as shown.

Sort've impressed and mortified at same time that there's not been any issues (aside from smell) with the water not being filtered? And no, only the washer and refrigerator have their own filters built in. We're au naturale in all other regards.


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

In The Woods said:


> ...
> 
> Low water pressure is common with a well compared to city water but doesn’t have to be. First thing as noted above is to check the pressure in the bladder tank. It should be around 18# for a typically sized residential tank. But it sounds like you have other issues down stream. If it is a long run to the kitchen, and there is only 1/2” pipe in that run, this will significantly drop the pressure by the time it reaches the kitchen.
> 
> Filling a pot of water is not what a refrigerator dispenser is made for - it is for filling a glass full of water. It is made to fill slowly so you don’t get a gush of water into your glass. Why not just fill the pot from the kitchen sink?


The kitchen sink has great water pressure (especially since I expected much less; in my inexperience of well water) but the fridge is just super slow to, and I suppose we both agree on this one, the fact that it's not pressurized like it is/was in the city with city water. I have actually had water splash me because it'd shoot out the water dispenser like a bullet. Wasn't all the time but definitely not a rare occasion. 

I am using the water dispenser and/or bottled water for drinks/mixes and to cook with. Whether my water setup is super malodorous or I'm being just a big baby (the latter is totally possible), the sulfur smell was/is so strong that when I've attempted to use it to make a jug of gatorade, the taste/smell was way off and noticeably unpleasant. Since we've hooked up the fridge (didn't have it for about 1.5 weeks) the water that comes out of the dispenser is to die for. It has that awesome well water taste that I've always loved, is 100% free from any smells and does not affect the smell of the foods I'm cooking. 

I know it's not really for cooking but until I can (apparently) get a filtration system (re)installed, I figure it's far easier to use the dispenser than to keep buying bottled water (which we lived off of for the week and a half without our fridge) 

I will say this (on a totally positive note) I found out today that the little tiny/thin water spigot on the sink faucet (next to the main one and which is normally a filtered water dispenser) actually has a filter on it and doesn't look like a hot mess. So! I haven't tried it yet but I am going to be messing with it in the next day or so and see if that filter is good/fresh enough to have filtered water out of and then I can maybe have a bit stronger pressure while filling up my pans for soup/jugs for gatorade. 

*fingers crossed*


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

P.S. I got to have my first experience with a Salamander yesterday. They are the cutest dang things ever! He was solid black and pert near had a heart attack when I picked him up. Found out he had no tail (and a tiny little droplet of blood on the stump) so I am blaming the roaming poisonous snake for stealing his tail


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

That is an odd one...them taking the filter housing, as that requires some work. Plus, they are pretty cheap. Cheaper to toss in a new filter.....silly.
I'd certainly get a 'whole house filter' pronto. You can also get one for filtering, and another address the sulfur smell.

I read this blurb as to why someone may have removed your anode:
"We've heard of plumbers or handymen advising people to remove the sacrificial anodes from their water heaters as a solution to smelly water. It's a solution all right, but one that will ensure that your water heater rusts out in record time. There is a reason why removing an anode voids all the manufacturers' warranties."

"Very often, replacing the standard magnesium or aluminum anode rod with an aluminum/zinc alloy anode will solve the problem."
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/Troubleshooting/stinky-water-in-hot-water-heaters.html

But the above solution will destroy your HWT in record time, as the HWT has no protection from rusting out.

As for pressure tank...yep, measure pressure. Beside the dirty pressure gauge in one of your pics, is probably the pressure switch. This is a mechanical switch that tells pump when to turn on and off. You probably have a 30-50psi system. In other words, pump comes on when pressure falls below 30 psi, and stops when it hits 50 psi. So, your pressure tank should read 28 psi (ideal). BTW - you have to turn off pump (breaker), and turn on inside/outside tap (bathtub, kitchen sink, etc) until system has drained, then measure pressure at pressure tank. The PT is precharged. It has a air filled rubber bladder in it, that is pressurized. Your measuring the pressure when water pressure is at 0.
During change of seasons, I've had to adjust the pressure in my PTs...just like car tires, pressure changes.
JMHO - I would make a clear path to your water mechanicals, as you'll need easy access for a bit.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

As I look at pics, I see the gauge, through the dirt, reads ~52psi, which would suggest a 40-60 system. Or the gauge could be reading wrong (a distinct possibility with how dirty it is - more so with internal passage being clogged, given you have a mineral issue). Replacing gauge is easy, when pressure is 0. They are $10, plus some teflon tape and/or liquid teflon (just have to be careful one doesn't get any goop in sensor passage). 
If, system has a 40-60psi pressure switch, then pressure tank should read 38psi when water pressure is zero. My system is 40-60 (I built it, and wanted lots of pressure). Usually though, most systems are 30-50psi. 

And also, given how dirty the gauge and fittings connected to it are, I see the tank looks like it has been around for a while (hard to tell, just seeing bottom corner of it in pic). Tank bladder may have sprung a leak, and no longer holds pressure, which might explain your pressure issues. 

I would go after the 'low hanging fruit' first, in your investigation of why pressure at taps seems to be weak. Checking pressure tank is the easiest thing to do. 

And with the amount of sediment you may have in your system, not only could your gauge be plugged, but so could the pressure switch (usually a grey box with wires going to it, near gauge). Here is an example:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-...th-Low-Pressure-Cut-Off-FSG2J21M4BP/206398802

Those require some electrical safety know-how (turn off breaker, always advisable to have an electric tracer to confirm, etc.) to replace, but are easy to do. Pressure switches are about $30-40.


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

Since this post was started, it has come to our horrified attention that during the time the sellers had a contractor do the repairs needed for the water... the contractor completely removed the filtration system in place. Contractor said it wasn't working to begin with, and that the removal of the anode rod was going to be sufficient, so he simply removed it. 

Except for the fact that the filtration system was specifically referenced (#5) in our sellers/buyers negotiations. Soooo the seller's agent was contacted and the replacement of the filtration system has been scheduled for tomorrow. I just can't believe the logic that 'well it wasn't working to begin with, so I just disconnected it.' The seller's agent had, during the purchase process, indicated that the whole area had to have a filtration system put in place because some years ago there was an earthquake that sent aftershocks to this area. Literally overnight, the residents' water became more sulfuric. So the town/city outfitted the residents with filtration systems. The seller's agent is a really awesome guy, which is a good thing because his hands are in most everything related to this area. (Almost literally... we lovingly call him the mayor). He lives at the end of the county road I live on. He too was baffled by the removal of the filtration system but had also not been informed the smell was ongoing. So he only knew it was repaired prior to sale... not the specifics. 

*sigh*

So we've been rocking unfiltered well water that, according to the area, is iron rich and sulfur smelly. I am actually impressed that we've not had any sediment, not a horrid bout of orange buildup or anything else. So I'll at least give it props for that.


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## New2RuralHomesteading (Aug 27, 2017)

I also found that the little thin/smaller spigot next to the faucet in the kitchen sink is actually a filtered water option. I never knew! Looked under the sink and the filter was dated from 2/2013. So CLEARLY we need to work on getting a new filter for that as well. 

I don't intend to use the fridge for anything other than drinking water once the now-missing-but-had-totally-thought-it-was-there water filtration system is put in place. It's just our go-to for the time being. And I suspect, like you guys said, running too much of this iron rich/sediment containing water through the machines might lead to a problem. We're hoping that if everything goes smoothly tomorrow, that it won't be an issue much longer and hopefully caught in time. 

And! Further... the well system is, indeed, old and sketchy looking. We were going to look into having it looked at by a professional to see what updates/replacements they recommended. It's all functioning now but I think it's functioning only by the grace of god. The tank is 23 years old. The softener is like 18 years old. The gauge looks like it's the original one from 1968, and so forth. I suspect it'll be an expensive upgrade and so we were waiting until the house in Indy sold first. I don't knock something old so long as it's still working. But seeing as how I was going to have someone come out and give me an in depth tutorial, I figured it might as well serve as an estimate as well. 

*sigh* 

Stupid respectable old well system being too advanced for my intellect


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Thanks with follow up. A real head-scratcher why they removed filter housing. Now, I am curious if it was installed on right side of water system (downstrean or upstream of pressure tank). With a pressure tank that old, definitely suspect it needs replacing. Not hard to check as noted earlier. 
BTW - you can find a pressure tank from $200, for a base model to $600+ for a fiberglass job. Swapping in a new one is a pretty quick job if right fittings were used in OEM install (union). Same goes for gauge and pressure switch. I spent more time prepping threads (with teflon) than the actual install. 
Best of luck.


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