# mylar vs food buckets (for the preppers)



## hyenas (Mar 5, 2007)

I'm new to the whole food storage game and I have a pretty basic question. Why do I need to have a food-grade bucket if I'm using mylar bags and oxygen absorbers? I'd really rather not store 5-gallon buckets of beans, but one-gallon bags of a variety of stuff. And save the precious buckets for flours and grains. 

I know mylar is easily punctured but wouldn't a cardboard box do the job? Educate me please.


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## xix (Dec 22, 2006)

I was just rambling about this with my husband -- I was watching some videos on you tube and the food was in a ziplock, then vacuum sealed, then wrapped in plastic wrap, and then sealed in a mylar bag and then she pointed out using food safe plastic bucket to store it in... I think it was a bit redundant at that point.

I personally would be fine with storing something in a container other than a food safe bucket if I'd already packaged it in something else. 

I also use save my food buckets for grains.


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## judylou (Jun 19, 2009)

You might find the most relevant info and detailed answer to your question over on the Survival & Emergency Preparedness forum here.  That is where most of the food storage issues are discussed and I find several discussions there applicable to your question.

Basically I think the answer depends on how long you plan to store the food. Long term storage requires extensive and redundant packaging and since mylar and the buckets serve different purposes, both are needed. If you are talking short term storage (2 years or less) and regular rotation then you can cut corners on the packaging.


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## Guest (Feb 14, 2011)

Because if we did not specify "food safe" buckets even with the use of aluminized Mylar it is a near certainty that some fella is going to use a bucket that held transmission fluid, pesticides, or some other chemical that no one in their right mind would use for food storage that he'd "clean it out pretty good" before he put the bags in that he "sealed up pretty well." Then a year, five years, ten years later when they opened the buckets again and the whole thing reeked so bad no one would take a chance on actually opening and eating any of the food in the bags. Or maybe he hadn't done such a good job of sealing the bag or it had pin holes in it or worse still the buckets had once contained something so infusive that it actually managed to penetrate even a well sealed bag then the people who unwittingly ate the food were to get sick from it.

The problem with putting authoritative instructions out on the Internet is that you have no way of knowing (and certainly not any way to control) how people are going to use what you tell them. Maybe they've got a lick of sense and would not do anything stupid. Or maybe they would only to complain "you told us we could do it this way!"

The deal with aluminized Mylar bags (the shiny silver ones) is this:

Providing you have properly sealed it the bag is what provides the protection. The Mylar and the aluminum in combination are excellent barriers against moisture, oxygen and *most* insects. It really is strong stuff. EXCEPT that it is very susceptible to being punctured so it's easy to put a pinhole in it if it's just laying around on a shelf. There's a reason why military MRE bags are as thick and heavy as they are. So because of this puncture weakness the bags are put into another container that will protect them - such as a sturdy plastic bucket. Cardboard is susceptible to a host of storage dangers such as decay from moisture exposure, being eaten by insects, and is easily chewed through by even just house mice much less rats. Of course buckets can be chewed through as well, but not nearly as easy as even a sturdy cardboard box.

Now as for the "food safe" thing the most important thing is, _if you are going to be using aluminized Mylar bags inside_, that the bucket be *clean* and *has never held anything poisonous previously.* A paint bucket from the hardware store that's new is not going to be a problem. A bucket that once held ordinary drywall compound should not be a problem providing it's good and clean. Bits of old dry wall compound stuck to the insides are abrasion points that can eventually wear a hole through a bag if the bucket is moved very much so make sure it's good and clean inside. There are probably a million other kinds of used buckets that could be used as well, but each one would have to be judged individually to be able to say which is why no responsible person is going to give a blanket approval. Again, if you are going to use aluminized Mylar bags inside anyway then the bucket must simply be clean and must have never previously held anything that was poisonous in any way.

To be clear if you ARE NOT going to use Mylar bags inside but rather the food will be in direct contact with the bucket then you'd better stick with food grade buckets. This is most especially the case if the food has a high moisture content, or acidic in nature, or has a lot of fat or oil in it. Stuff can leach out of the bucket material into the food just as stuff can leach out of the food into the bucket material (which is why it's so hard to get the smell out of pickle and icing buckets).

If you haven't read it already I recommend looking at the _Prudent Food Storage FAQ_ which you can access via the URL in my signature below. It may answer many questions for you.


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## Just Cliff (Nov 27, 2008)

For bulk items I use *new* 2 and 5 gallon buckets. I do not use mylar bags inside buckets for bulk grains,beans,salt,etc.. 
I still have some sealed from 13 years ago. I use nitrogen to store my dry goods. Most folks here use O2 absorbers and desicants. Many people use them without fail. I just like to use nitrogen. It's a personal preference.

Many people here get used buckets from grocery stores and resturants and such, that is fine as long as they are clean. I buy my buckets new. That way I know what I have, once again a personal preference.

Don't get hung up on the "food grade buckets" name. You will find it very difficult to find one that is not "food grade" Those who sell the super special "food grade buckets" are just looking for those that don't know the difference and want to burn you a new one. On the bottom you will see a #2 inside the triangular recycle symbol. They are HDPE plastic. That is what you look for.
2 Gallon bucket and lid are about $5. 5 gallon bucket and lid are about $7.50. Both can be had at Ace Hardware.


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## praieri winds (Apr 16, 2010)

I like putting meal size portions {just 2 of us} in the foodsaver bags then put them in food grade buckets don't like the idea of opening a bulk buckets of food then have to reseal it so I prefer the way I do it


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