# Anyone know how to flare a line without a flaring tool?



## AZSongBird1973 (Jun 10, 2018)

Oil line on the skidder is leaking. It runs from the turbo to the block. The end that goes in the fitting on the block is flared and I can't find my flaring tool. I found the parts online...only $286.38 for an 8mm x about 18" formed steel line. Fittings hardware and copper washers sold separately of course...sheesh!


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## Redlands Okie (Nov 28, 2017)

No idea on a alternative to a flaring tool. How about a local repair shop tractor or auto. Machinist or hydraulic repair shop. Some auto parts dealers rent tools cheap or for a deposit.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

AZSongBird1973 said:


> Oil line on the skidder is leaking. It runs from the turbo to the block. The end that goes in the fitting on the block is flared and I can't find my flaring tool. I found the parts online...only $286.38 for an 8mm x about 18" formed steel line. Fittings hardware and copper washers sold separately of course...sheesh!


Ditto on going into local auto parts store and ask to borrow the tool. The last one I bought on the fly when I couldn't find mine, was like $10 or so. I would check with them while I was there on a length of steel brake line in the size you need for that skidder. The line and tool together will likely be less than 50 bucks. 
I'll take a wild guess based on your part cost, that the brand name starts with C a t ..........

There was a thread just the other day about bending tubing by hand the old school way, by filling it with sand or salt first to prevent kinks and crimps. 

But as far as ******* rigging a flare tool, I could probably do it with some C clamps and a countersink if I was desperate, but I wouldn't trust it to be right and not leak. It's not worth all that headache in the long run when it's cheap and easy enough to do it right the first time.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

Redlands Okie said:


> Some auto parts dealers rent tools cheap


There you go.
Or alternatively, take the line to a shop and let them flare it for you.


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## AZSongBird1973 (Jun 10, 2018)

None of the local auto parts places have a metric set to rent or sell. I have one..just can't find the stinking thing. Was hoping to stop the leak up long enough to be able to use it without making a mess of my customers drive way tomorrow. It's a New Holland. I got a good deal on it but man I've had to jerry rig the crud out of it. Mostly because of all the safety features...seat sensors and lap belt sensor etc. I'm not heavy enough for the seat sensors to register that someone's in it so it quits moving on me...ticks me off like no other!


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## Skamp (Apr 26, 2014)

I don’t really recommend it but, hold your mouth right and use the point of an anvil and a body hammer. 

I’ve done it in a pinch. It leaked, but slow.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Thread tape temporarily?


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## AZSongBird1973 (Jun 10, 2018)

Skamp said:


> I don’t really recommend it but, hold your mouth right and use the point of an anvil and a body hammer.
> 
> I’ve done it in a pinch. It leaked, but slow.


I don't have an anvil but I've got a vice and tapered punch that's about the right size. Might give that a shot. Thanks!


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## AZSongBird1973 (Jun 10, 2018)

Skamp said:


> I don’t really recommend it but, hold your mouth right and use the point of an anvil and a body hammer.
> 
> I’ve done it in a pinch. It leaked, but slow.


Tried it...the old flare is cracked around the bell. I tried taping the outside of the bell and then snugging the nut down and its still leaking.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

AZSongBird1973 said:


> None of the local auto parts places have a metric set to rent or sell. I have one..just can't find the stinking thing. Was hoping to stop the leak up long enough to be able to use it without making a mess of my customers drive way tomorrow. It's a New Holland. I got a good deal on it but man I've had to jerry rig the crud out of it. Mostly because of all the safety features...seat sensors and lap belt sensor etc. I'm not heavy enough for the seat sensors to register that someone's in it so it quits moving on me...ticks me off like no other!


8mm = .315"
5/16 = .3125"

IOW it's one of the closest metric to fractional dimensions you'll ever find


AZSongBird1973 said:


> Tried it...the old flare is cracked around the bell. I tried taping the outside of the bell and then snugging the nut down and its still leaking.



As I was typing reply above, I realized there might be more to it for the metric fittings than a simple flare.
I don't know if that's the case with yours, but you can look at the pics and decide if you want to try a 5/16 regular flare or search for a bubble flare adapter. Supposedly Advance and NAPA sells them........??
http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common flares6.pdf


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## Skamp (Apr 26, 2014)

AZSongBird1973 said:


> I don't have an anvil but I've got a vice and tapered punch that's about the right size. Might give that a shot. Thanks!



I’m gonna report your initial post to the Mods. 

This is best discussed in shop talk and I’ll simply ask to have it moved. 

GC has been a sewer.


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## Shrek (May 1, 2002)

AZSongBird1973 said:


> Oil line on the skidder is leaking. It runs from the turbo to the block. The end that goes in the fitting on the block is flared and I can't find my flaring tool. I found the parts online...only $286.38 for an 8mm x about 18" formed steel line. Fittings hardware and copper washers sold separately of course...sheesh!


I have used a ball peen hammer to flare a line end a couple times by putting the line nut in place and securing the line in my table vise firmly enough to secure it without crimping the line and then using the ball end to tap out the flare after heating the end a bit if needed.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

If I were honest, have to say I probably couldnt find my flaring tool either. Just dont use it often. But they are cheap. 

Oh to bend metal tubing without it crimping or collapsing, bend it around groove in a V-belt pulley. Lot easier than trying to fill it with sand or something.


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## ticndig (Sep 7, 2014)

Napa auto parts makes lines , New Holland parts are VERY high . they wanted $ 88.00 for a set of o-rings for the 3 point lift on my tractor .


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## AmericanStand (Jul 29, 2014)

If you’re going to order the parts online you might as well order the tool ogle. 
Both will be here tomorrow morning ......


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## AZSongBird1973 (Jun 10, 2018)

Skamp said:


> I’m gonna report your initial post to the Mods.
> 
> This is best discussed in shop talk and I’ll simply ask to have it moved.
> 
> GC has been a sewer.


Apparently I have committed my first of what's sure to be many forum faux pas. My appologies.


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## AZSongBird1973 (Jun 10, 2018)

Good news...found a flare tool this morning. Got it fixed and so far so good. Worked all day with it and no leakage. Had to throw almost a whole bag of kitty litter in the belly pan to absorb all the oil. Now I have a messy project waiting for me this evening when it cools off a little. Thank you all for your help!


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

AZSongBird1973 said:


> I'm not heavy enough for the seat sensors to register that someone's in it so it quits moving on me...ticks me off like no other!


Add weights to the seat.
Duct tape and cinderblocks would work if you don't care about looks, although with a little thought I'n sure you can think of a better solution, like adding an extra shim between the seat and the safety switch?


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## CajunSunshine (Apr 24, 2007)

JB Weld??

And for weighting that seat, how 'bout two gallon jugs of milk hanging from bungie cords? Easy on, easy off!

ETA: I didn't see your earlier post where you fixed the leak. _You GO girl!_


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## AZSongBird1973 (Jun 10, 2018)

Bearfootfarm said:


> Add weights to the seat.
> Duct tape and cinderblocks would work if you don't care about looks, although with a little thought I'n sure you can think of a better solution, like adding an extra shim between the seat and the safety switch?


Mostly i have trouble when i use the foot pedals. I push down and it redistributes my weight and my bottom comes up off the seat so it stops. Ive tried shims, I've tried to wire it to bypass the sensor, I've taken apart the entire seat and the foot pedal assemblies. If my kiddo sets in my lap everything is perfect lol! Maybe I should put wood blocks on the pedals like in my dad's old willys when I was a kid.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

AZSongBird1973 said:


> Maybe I should put wood blocks on the pedals like in my dad's old willys when I was a kid.


That would work too LOL


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

That last bit reminded me of what I saw today, leaving the mountain.
Like a lot of kids many years ago, I learned to drive before the legal age. 
After mastering the riding lawn mower, around 10 or 12 years old, your dad might let you drive the old 2nd car/truck around the pasture or some little used dirt road in the country. So by the time you DID take the driver's test you already knew what you were doing. 

I was at a stop sign waiting for this big Ford truck to go by and noticed the kid driving next to an old man (grandpa?), looked awful young and small. His head was at normal level, but I think he was sitting on something and way up close to the steering wheel so he could reach the pedals.

He did pretty good though - straight, smooth at normal speed as they went around the bend. 

I was smiling as I recalled how that made a boy feel, when someone had the confidence to let you take on that responsibility only the "grownups" were allowed........and you succeeded.


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