# Replacing brake line on Ford Ranger



## fishhead

How hard is it to replace a rear brake line on a 95 Ford Ranger?

It's leaking between the junction box that sits on the rear end and the wheel. As far as replacing the part it looks simple. Unscrew the fitting, remove old line, insert new line and tighten fittings.

That's the theory but what is it really like? 

Should I expect the fittings to be rusted to the point they break before unscrewing? I've never replaced the fluid so I'm guessing it attracted moisture and that's what rusted the line to the point it broke.

Can one person bleed the air out of the line when you replace the fluid?


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## zant

1.Spray with PB..tet sit for 24hrs-may come off without twisting/breaking line...buy new fitting/line anyway..
2.1 person can bleed if you have a vacuum unit-I bought a small SnapOn years ago and bleed brakes myself.
3.RUST is biggest problem-your Ranger in Mn may be rusted..underneath esp....My sons Ranger never out of Alabama looks brand new underneath with 200k on it.When we replaced his rear brake lines-took an hr.5-simple-NO rust..


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## fishhead

What's PB?

Do the lines come partially formed or straight?


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## HermitJohn

PB is one of those miracle in a can penetrating oils. Like liquid wrench or kroil or those type things.


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## Guest

Should be fairly simple . Use a line wrench .


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## foxtrapper

PB Blaster. Available at Walmart and autoparts stores throughout the US.

Try breaking free both ends of the line before you remove either. Yes, many times you break the line, or worse the other end. Frustrating jobs sometimes. Especially on older rustier vehicles.

Fitting the new line can be highly entertaining. If you go to a dealership, you can likely get a pre-bent line that fits perfectly. That's nice. But it's expensive. The cheaper route is to get a generic straight line (with the right fittings!) from the auto store. Bend it to fit, and that's the fun part. The line bends easily enough, but getting everything to line up right as you bend it can be....frustrating.


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## Danaus29

The rubber section with the fittings or the entire steel line? You can get the rubber sections aftermarket but good luck finding the pre-bent line anywhere. We had to replace the lines on our 2000 van a couple years ago and the dealer didn't have the pre-bent lines for it! Dh had found a place that does custom lines out of stainless a while ago and just took the old lines to them and had new ones made. We've done that for 3 vehicles now and will be doing a 4th as time and money allow. On the last one we had done it didn't cost much more than the straight line and fittings.


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## fishhead

Do the lines kink easily?

I like the idea of taking the old one(s) to a custom place.


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## Danaus29

When dh gets home I'll ask him for the info on the lines he bought. They used to be a little backroom shop but have grown to a big mail-order company. At least it would give you a starting price.

Found their website:
http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/

They are called _The Right Stuff Detailing_


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## fishhead

It sure isn't a backroom shop any more. 

Thanks.


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## oneokie

Yes, the lines are easy to kink. Harbor Freight sells a tubing bending tool that is well worth the money.

When you go to install the new line, start the new line fitting on one end by only 2 turns so that it has some movement, then do the same with the other end. The fittings are easily cross threaded. Don't ask......


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## Guest

I did new brake lines on the rear on my 96 Bronco. The set up sounds similar. Use penetrating oil on the fittings on the distribution box and the wheel cylinder. Let sit overnight. Use an appropriat size brake line wrench and the fittings should come out. Try not to bend the old line getting it out, then use it as a pattern to bend the new line. I bought brake line and fittings from O'Riely. You need to double flare the ends of the lines (flare tool from HF). Don't forget to put the fitting on before you make the flare. I put new wheel cylinders on because the bleed screws were rusted shut.


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## Danaus29

When we got the first set many many moons ago (2001) they were just starting up and you had to have your old lines to get a set made. I won't tell you how many lines one incompetent employee messed up or how much they spent to make everything right for many customers but they do stand behind their product and the customer service is top notch. For someone who intends to keep their vehicle for a few years yet and already has a brake line problem the stainless ones are a good investment. We got the silicon fluid too. Shortly after replacing the lines and using the silicon fluid we took a road trip to Colorado. We went down a really steep grade where you had to ride the brakes. We had to pull off a few times to let the drums cool and we had some grease seep out of the bearings but we had zero brake fade. We have been very pleased with their products.


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## fishhead

I put the penetrating oil on the fittings but forgot to do the bleeder valve. I'll get that done tonight.


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## fishhead

Deleted. Didn't know what I was talking about.


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## fishhead

Well I got all 4 bolts taken out one gummed up thread at a time.

Now I've got a new problem.

The hole in the wheel cylinder isn't large enough to slide over the part that has the lug nuts. Now what do I do?


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## topside1

Try using vise grips if necessary to remove the leaking line from the wheel cylinder. If you absolutely can't get it loosened then the drum needs to come off, to access the wheel cylinder for removal. Also keep in mind that the brake line fitting are different at each end of the old brake line you are removing. A adapter is required at the wheel end and the regular flare fitting is required at the junction block you found above the differential....Also you will have to bend the new brake line by hand. I'm very familiar with this job, it's not much fun if the old brake line fittings don't lefty loosey easily...Topside


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## HermitJohn

If you dont have a bending tool to prevent kinks, you can use a v-belt pulley. The walls of the vee groove prevent the tubing from collapsing. With two or three different diameter pulleys you can make any bends you want.

And I forget what a nightmare brake jobs were when I lived in upper michigan. Rust was no joke up there. Down here in the south, very rare for rust to be much of a problem. Down here I even used to rebuild wheel cylinders. That was back when new wheel cylinders werent same price as a rebuild kit. Now its waste of time to try and rebuild either wheel cylinder or master cylinder when new parts arent any more expensive..


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## fishhead

I was confused. What I was calling the 'wheel cylinder' isn't that at all. I would guess it's the housing for the brake shoes. I didn't need to spend an hour unbolting it from the axle. Oh well......

What I need to do is get the cylinder off that housing. I've already rounded the fitting off with vise grips. I'm going to help the neighbor cut down some trees this morning after breakfast but after that I'm going to take another run at getting the cylinder of the housing.


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## topside1

The only way to get the wheel cylinder off is to remove the brake drum. Tire off, then remove the drum. Some of them can be stubborn, rust and the brake shoes grapping the drum could be a problem...I usually learn a few new words whenever I encounter this problem. In a perfect world the drum should slide right off. Hitting it with a hammer usually helps, don't hit to hard or you will crack the drum...Topside


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## fishhead

I didn't have any trouble getting the drum off.

I got the cylinder off and now have to figure out where all the springs and pieces go because I took it all apart. Live and learn.


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## HermitJohn

fishhead said:


> I didn't have any trouble getting the drum off.
> 
> I got the cylinder off and now have to figure out where all the springs and pieces go because I took it all apart. Live and learn.


Seriously you need to invest in at least a $10 Haynes manual for your vehicle. They arent near as good as they used to be, but should at least have pictures and diagrams where all the bits and pieces go. Matter of fact I got my Ranger manual at Salvation Army for 50cents. Or you might find a cd copy of factory manual on ebay. That would be better.

And if you arent going to use a manual, get that digital camera out when disassembling anything complicated and take lots of pictures.


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## topside1

Now there is the best advice I've heard all day....Even check out the library..


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## topside1

One more thing, putting those springs back on can make a grown man cry. I weigh 250 pounds and let me tell you those springs can make you cuss. So do yourself a favor and purchase or borrow brake spring pliers...Your knuckles will thank you...Topside


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## fishhead

For a while I thought that getting the springs on was going to take a fourth trip to town to buy some spring tools but once I got everything in position I was able to fight them into submission.

I had to do it to the adjuster spring a bunch of times. Finally I figured out a way to do it without swearing. Then I had to do it all over a bunch of times more because the plate with the groove for the cable has an extruded hole that is just sort of resting in a hole and any twisting on that spring cable or the shoe cable that goes on top of it causes it to pop out of the hole.

I still haven't gotten to the original brake line replacement. I'm done for the day. Me and the dog are going hiking.


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## Wis Bang 2

fishhead said:


> I didn't have any trouble getting the drum off.
> 
> I got the cylinder off and now have to figure out where all the springs and pieces go because I took it all apart. Live and learn.


You never take BOTH sides apart at the same time. That means the opposite side is an example until you put side 1 back together.


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## Farmerwilly2

I've an '89 Ranger. I ended up change 3 lines. I would replace one and blow another bleeding it. They can be a pain in the posterior, but not rocket surgery. I bend my lines around a socket to keep it from kinking. My best advice (and advice I never seem to follow) is find some place other than a gravel driveway in the sun to do the job. My someday wish has a real garage on it.


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## farmerj

(Disclaimer: You perform brake work at your own risk. If you don't know what you are doing, don't do this. You can create a 3500 missile with no way to stop it.)


drum brakes.

Put the bottom spring on first.
Slide the shoes up and around the axle and into place. 
Put on the retaining spring with the parking brake lever (Rear shoe). (They make a special tool for this that looks like a screw driver. Will save you LOTS of hassles) 
Slide the adjuster into place between the front and rear shoe. Star wheel should go to the rear.

Install the retaining spring into the front shoe. 

Install the adjusting cam lever onto the parking brake lever.

Install the top spring into the front shoe outside hole.

Install the top spring onto the adjusting lever.

Slowly adjust out the adjuster and test with the drum on. You should be able to get the drum on, but not drag.

If your lines are so bad, it may be worth the $8-9 for a new wheel cylinder to put a new one in. May also want to spend the extra $10-12 for new spring kits too.

Then make sure you bleed all the brakes until it comes our clear fluid.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs moisture. I personally have the fluid flushed every couple of years just to put fresh stuff in. Saves me more hassle than otherwise.


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## fishhead

Thanks for all the advice. Hopefully I won't blow any more lines.

I did put a new cylinder and spring set in that side. It looks like the mirror image of the other side as far as I can see without taking it apart too. When I looked at the other side for comparison I saw the same bottom spring had broken there too so I put a new one in the best I could without taking that one all apart too.

The truck has disc brakes in the front. Will I need to bleed all four wheels?


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## farmerj

you could get by without, but if you are already bleeding the back half, why not do the front at the same time.

It would only take a couple extra minutes. Then the entire system will have clean fluid in it.

Remember also brakes/shocks/bearing repacks are all things that should be done in "axle sets" If you do it to one side, do it to the other at the same time. You'll thank yourself later.


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## ponyboy123

cut the line off and use a 6 point socket to remove from the fitting from the wheel cyl.


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## fishhead

farmerj said:


> you could get by without, but if you are already bleeding the back half, why not do the front at the same time.
> 
> It would only take a couple extra minutes. Then the entire system will have clean fluid in it.
> 
> Remember also brakes/shocks/bearing repacks are all things that should be done in "axle sets" If you do it to one side, do it to the other at the same time. You'll thank yourself later.


Where are the bleeders on the front disc brakes?

I was tempted to do the other side since it was so much fun but I think I'll pass. In fact I'm considering taking it to my mechanic so he can check my work.

The adjuster was frozen so I hit it with PB Blaster but that didn't do it so then I heated it with my little propane torch. Once I got it turning I wire brushed the threads and put more Blaster on it BUT now I'm thinking that I should have unfrozen it on both sides of the adjusting wheel and I didn't. I did soak the adjusters down PB Blaster on both sides of the vehicle when I had the drums off.


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## farmerj

fishhead said:


> Where are the bleeders on the front disc brakes?
> 
> I was tempted to do the other side since it was so much fun but I think I'll pass. In fact I'm considering taking it to my mechanic so he can check my work.
> 
> The adjuster was frozen so I hit it with PB Blaster but that didn't do it so then I heated it with my little propane torch. Once I got it turning I wire brushed the threads and put more Blaster on it BUT now I'm thinking that I should have unfrozen it on both sides of the adjusting wheel and I didn't. I did soak the adjusters down PB Blaster on both sides of the vehicle when I had the drums off.


Yop you should have unfrozen it on both sides of the wheel. It's basically doing nothing for you. Once you get that done, you would want to put some lithium grease on the adjuster and the threads.

Bleeders on the front look like the bleeders on the rear. Likely under a cap.


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## topside1

Farmerj is right, just look at the top of the front drum backing plate. Find the two bolts heads the hold on the brake actuator cylinder. The bleeder will be right there, as mentioned possibly hidden under a black rubber dust cap....If the front bleeders don't loosen and begin to disintegrate just stop before new problems are created. The front brake lines are still full on fluid, your reservoir maybe empty but the lines are full...Topside


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## fishhead

Thanks again.

I'm going to use a socket on the bleeder and if it acts like it's not going to open I'll stop.

Can the auto adjuster be removed without taking the whole mess apart again?


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## topside1

Fishhead I gave you bad advice...there is no actuator on the front brakes...Sorry. The front are disk brakes and the bleeder is on the caliper...Sorry again...Topside


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## fishhead

No problem. I appreciate the help.

Is it possible to remove those self adjusters without taking the shoes and everything off? If it isn't I'm going to forget them because they weren't working before I started this project.


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