# Shearing sheep questions



## vicb66 (Oct 20, 2007)

I am in the process of purchasing Icelandic Sheep.I am a dog groomer by trade.I have shaved numerous seriously matted dogs.I've used my regular Andis Model AG2 with a lot of success.I've tried to use a borrowed Oster Showmasters and I wasn't impressed.Had better luck with my AG2's. But I am sure if I'm shearing 10 sheep two times per year the AG2's will die a horrible death.Can anyone suggest something different?


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## PNP Katahdins (Oct 28, 2008)

You will need a better clipper for shearing sheep, as you realize. With Icelandics, you will probably be concerned about the quality of the clip more than just getting it off. There is a great sheep-shearing Yahoo group at http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/SheepShearing/ where you can get help. Their message archives have a lot of info, too.

Are there other quality wool breeders in your area? What do they recommend? We hire someone to shear the wool sheep in our flock so maybe you can find someone to get you started.

If you haven't found it already, Premier is a sheep supply company that sell lots of shearing equipment. Their super-nice website is http://www.premier1supplies.com/ Get on their catalog mailing lists for both sheep and fencing, they are both excellent resources. They also have a good email newsletter.

Good luck!

Peg


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## springvalley (Jun 23, 2009)

We have several differant shears, I like things about each of them. First thing you need to make sure is you have sheep blades on the shear. Makes a big differance in how your shear works. I shear alot of alpacas and have no problem, but I hire someone to shear my sheep. Good luck, Thanks > Marc


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

I've used Sunbeam and Heiniger sheep shears with success. Not much to recomend one over the other, I like the Heinigers a little better to hold, the Sunbeam is a bit more affordable.


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## birchtreefarm (Jul 22, 2007)

vicb66 said:


> I am in the process of purchasing Icelandic Sheep.I am a dog groomer by trade.I have shaved numerous seriously matted dogs.I've used my regular Andis Model AG2 with a lot of success.I've tried to use a borrowed Oster Showmasters and I wasn't impressed.Had better luck with my AG2's. But I am sure if I'm shearing 10 sheep two times per year the AG2's will die a horrible death.Can anyone suggest something different?


What is it about the Oster that you don't like? I have the variable speed one (Showmaster or Shearmaster -can't remember which off the top) and it works fine for me. If I had to buy it again, I wouldn't get the variable speed just because I never use it at anything but full speed, but otherwise I have no complaints.

I do use either a 13 or 9 tooth comb (I prefer the 9 but the 13 works fine too) and a 4 point cutter. I think I'm using the AAA right now, but I have a selection because when I first bought them I wasn't sure which would work best for me.

They have to be sharp (note to self - remember to send yours for sharpening). And you have to have the tension correctly adjusted. And make sure they are lubed up.


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## vicb66 (Oct 20, 2007)

My biggest complaint about the Oster clippers was is that it was so heavy. I'm looking for a lighter clipper. I just can't justify paying someone to do it when it's what I do for a living.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

The shaft driven hand piece clippers are lighter and you have to get used to them. More power but your technique has to change. Shearing sheep isn't much like grooming a dog...... well kinda but its like saying truck driving is like F1 racing.


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## Slev (Nov 29, 2003)

Wendle is a dog groomer as well, she helped me a lot in getting a system to shearing. 

I really like the Priemer 4000S light and powerful.. have had a little trouble with the trigger switch, but they made good on it, and a 3 yr war. not a bad deal...


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## vicb66 (Oct 20, 2007)

Sheep shearing is easier than shearing dogs.At least with a sheep you can sit it down and it submits to the shearing.Cats are the same way.Dogs do not submit.Especially if it's a long haired dog that has never been groomed.Their hair comes off like a pelt.Most of the time I've got to shave the dog wet standing over it in my grooming tub.I figure if I can do a couple of those a day sheep will be nothing. I am interested in the shaft drive models.Makes more sense to have a larger motor and not have to hold the weight of the motor in your hand.Anyone know of any of the brands of shaft drive models?


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## birchtreefarm (Jul 22, 2007)

vicb66 said:


> Sheep shearing is easier than shearing dogs.At least with a sheep you can sit it down and it submits to the shearing.


I remember when I took a shearing course given by Doug Rathke, I asked him if he had ever sheared Icelandics (this was before we had gotten our first sheep), and his exact words were, "they're squirrelly". 

Oh, how right he was.  

Yes, you can sit them on their backsides to shear them. Professional shearers do it and they have the technique down. Despite taking the course, at which I did pretty well if I do say so myself, I cannot shear Icelandics like we sheared the Dorset-Finn ewes we had to practice on for the class. I have tried. I don't do it often enough to have the technique perfected or the strength necessary to do it, and I realize technique is more important than sheer power, but it does help to have good upper body strength and a good back.

We shear them standing up. I will occasionally sit them on their behinds to do a belly, but usually I even do that with them standing. They are calmer, I can take my time, and it just works out better for us. We halter them and tie them up real short to a t-post driven firmly into the ground, and my husband makes sure they don't flop around or try to spin around the post, but they usually behave well once they realize they cannot move.

Just figured forewarned is forearmed and all that. :grin: I was glad Doug let me know his experience with them, because then I knew it really wasn't just me being inexperienced, it was also partly the temperament of the sheep. Icelandics just seem more easily offended by the fact that you have put them in such an undignified position and they do everything they can to get out of it. And if you are getting horned Icelandics, you've got them prodding and poking you in your belly or thighs.


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## John Hill (May 12, 2002)

vicb66 said:


> I am interested in the shaft drive models.Makes more sense to have a larger motor and not have to hold the weight of the motor in your hand.Anyone know of any of the brands of shaft drive models?


Sorry I do not know the current available brands but I would choose carefully as I believe there are two varieties of shaft drive shearing systems. One type has a flexible shaft and really (the ones I have seen) they weigh so much and put such a drag on your wrist that you would be better off with the modern motor-in-hand style. 

The very best system and the only one acceptable to professionals shearing hundreds of sheep a day is the articulated shaft system, like this man is using.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

My goodness John Hill! Nice to see you visiting with us again. I have a flexible shaft machine its older but I prefer it 100-1 against a handpiece motor driven one. The additional power makes up for any drag IMO. Sunbeam and Heiniger make shaft drive versions in either the flexable shaft or the ridgid shaft. There are others too. wool.ca has Nexus but can probably get anything you want by asking.


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## catahoula (Dec 14, 2005)

We have Icelandics as well and boy are they feisty. It took me a lot of shearing the traditional way to finally realize that shearing them standing up was the only way to go. It's easier on the sheep and it's easier on me, no more perfect hoof shaped bruises.


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## John Hill (May 12, 2002)

Ross said:


> My goodness John Hill! Nice to see you visiting with us again. I have a flexible shaft machine its older but I prefer it 100-1 against a handpiece motor driven one. The additional power makes up for any drag IMO. Sunbeam and Heiniger make shaft drive versions in either the flexable shaft or the ridgid shaft. There are others too. wool.ca has Nexus but can probably get anything you want by asking.



Hi Ross and compliments of the season etc...

On reflection, I could be persuaded that the flexible shaft machines are OK if the flexible shaft hangs down like the rigid shaft ones do.

One of the techniques I was shown early on was to allow the handpiece to rotate in the hand between the 'blows' when needing to reposition the handpiece to keep the bottom tooth on the skin, otherwise needing an awkward wrist movement or position. No doubt this is impossible with the motor in hand style, maybe possible with the flexible shaft systems?


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Mine hangs down so the handpiece could sit just flat on the floor with a 90degree bend on the coupler. Any less you can't shear round the bum any more and you would be holding most of the cable to do the face and neck. Yeah that would suck.


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## John Hill (May 12, 2002)

Ross said:


> Mine hangs down so the handpiece could sit just flat on the floor with a 90degree bend on the coupler. Any less you can't shear round the bum any more and you would be holding most of the cable to do the face and neck. Yeah that would suck.


We used to have little petrol powered shearing machines with a flexible shaft intended for dagging and such with the motor hanging on a suitable fence rail. They were OK for that, provided you were not going to be using it all day, but to actually shear a sheep required an assistant to handle the cable. I guess I was a little prejudiced against flexible shafts due to that experience.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Well I've never used a shaft driven shear and even if it looks a little gawky I probably will give it a try before my last breath.


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## birchtreefarm (Jul 22, 2007)

catahoula said:


> no more perfect hoof shaped bruises.


This exactly. And in the strangest places too! I would find a bruise a day or so later and wonder, "how on EARTH did she manage to kick me there when I was BEHIND her?"


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## John Hill (May 12, 2002)

Ross said:


> Well I've never used a shaft driven shear and even if it looks a little gawky I probably will give it a try before my last breath.



Ross, if nothing else it will show that you must start with the sheep in the exact position or you get tangled up doing the first shoulder and from then on it get worse!

BTW, I believe all modern rigid shaft machines have a twisted fibre insert but the early ones did have a solid shaft of about 1/4" rattling around inside the tube. The noise with 12 of them running in a shed with a low tin roof was something to remember.


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## sbanks (Dec 19, 2010)

Question: do the shearers in the US wear the moccasins and double lined pants?

I am taking a shearing class in March and am trying to all my gear together. I shear dogs, so I know how that goes and the AG clippers will not last to shear sheep professionally. Osters are heavy in any kind of industry. I am going with the Light Livestock Equipment brand myself.


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