# Help with possible diagnosis 2004 Ford Escape transmission won't



## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

I need some help diagnosing a problem on a 2004 Ford Escape... It's my cousins car and she just can't catch a break so I'm trying to help save her some money that she doesn't have right now...

About 4 or 5 months ago her daughter was driving her car and it died at a stop light, just wouldn't go when she tried to take off, so she had someone decide her transmission was shot, spent the last few months trying to save the money so she finally got a transmission put in it (I'm assuming used or reman) and they drive it down the road and it won't shift (auto trans). So someone told her she needed to have the programming updated for the new transmission, so she has an uncle haul it to the local ford dealer, she drove it on to the trailer and drove it off the trailer at the dealership...

A couple days go by and she gets the call that it's been reprogrammed but the fuel pump is bad so it won't start. So that's where I got involved.

I went to the dealership and tested fuel pressure, got nothing didn't budge the needle, so I tested the fuses with a test light to make sure the fuel pump fuse was working, I didn't have any way to test the relay but by feel but I could feel the relay clicking when she turned the key on, I also tried switching the relay with another just to make sure... Still nothing, so then I moved back to the fuel pump which is conveniently located beneath an access cover under the seat... I pulled the wires off and using the test light verified she had power at the connector. I unplugged the fuel lines from the pump and plugged the wire back in and had her try to start it and no fuel, so that was the end of what I could think of to test without having a multimeter with me, so I concluded that they were telling her the truth that the fuel pump was toast. 

So today she bought a used fuel pump from the junkyard to save some money, I went and put it in and the car starts right up. So we took it for a short drive and it still won't shift from 2nd to 3rd, and the speedometer reads anyplace from 0 to 15 mph even though I know I was going close to 35 when it read 15, and I got up to 45 or so before I said enough it's not going to shift. The entire time there is an indicator light blinking O/D Off. So we turned around and made our way a couple blocks the other way to the parts store and had them pull the codes on it. Here is the conglomerate they came back with...

P0232
P0230
P0732
P0731
P1000

So looking at those first two are fuel pump issues I'm assuming we have resolved now with replacing the pump. The third and fourth are something about trans gear ratio incorrect... Does this mean the gearing is broke in the trans? Could it just be sensors that are bad that we could pull off the old trans and put on this one? Would a bad sensor explain twofold the reason it won't shift to third gear and why it thinks we were only going 15mph when we were going closer to 35 or more keeping up with the other traffic? Where should I begin?

Thanks in advance!


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Pre-electronic transmissions did have a gear in the transmission that varied depending on the rear end ratio. That was necessary to provide the correct speedometer reading. I have no idea what electronic transmission do. It may be another programming issue. It makes sense there would be feed back to a computer to shift at the correct speeds. If there's an ATRA member transmission shop in your area give them a call. They can tell you if it's a programming issue.

The link is to the member shop locator. http://www.atra.com/shopfinder


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

This might make no difference at all, but it won't cost a thing to try.

Disconnect the + battery terminal and turn *on* the headlights.

This will drain all the power from any capacitors.

After about 5 minutes, turn the lights off and reconnect the battery.

That will reset the ECM to all the factory defaults and clear all the codes.

With any luck the "reboot" will solve any programming issues that could be giving bad readings.


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## flewism (Apr 2, 2007)

CD4E trans there is an vss (vehicle speed sensor) LH side (drivers) of transaxle.
It is external, but I'm not sure, it does send its signal directly to the cpu


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## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

Darren, it doesn't appear we have an ATRA around here... closest one is about 50 miles and don't have a way to transport the vehicle that far without worrying about burning up the transmission =) going to see what I can do in the dealership parking lot before we get too carried away with moving it around... I think at a minimum I'll pull the sensors off the old transmission and put them on this one and see if that makes a difference.

Bearfoot, I'll run over at lunch today and disconnect the battery and let it sit until I go back through later on today to give it lots of time to reset.

flewism, I see there are a number of sensors on the transmission, I'm going to tell her to have whoever has the old transmission to pull all of the sensors off and get them to me, if the reboot Bearfoot mentioned doesn't work then I'll try changing the TSS/OSS(VSS) sensors and see if one of them isn't the problem.

Thanks for the advice everyone.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

You can also post your question at www.batauto.com.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

After you reboot then there is a time for the computer to relearn..maybe ten miles of driving.
I just went through some problems with my truck that did not make sense considering the codes I was getting. New ecm solved it.


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## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

I tried the reboot yesterday and it didn't seem to work although I only drove it about a mile or so. My cousin got word back from the guy who put the transmission in that he says he used the sensors from her old transmission so I'm not going to be able to just swap them out. I wasn't able to do anything else with it last night, so tonight I am planning on pulling the speed sensor out and testing it to see if it is bad.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

rininger85 said:


> I tried the reboot yesterday and it didn't seem to work although I only drove it about a mile or so. My cousin got word back from the guy who put the transmission in that he says he used the sensors from her old transmission so I'm not going to be able to just swap them out. I wasn't able to do anything else with it last night, so tonight I am planning on pulling the speed sensor out and testing it to see if it is bad.


Here's a diagram of the different sensors, etc.
You might want to check the shift solenoids too.

http://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/transmission-solenoid/


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## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

I changed the OSS(output shaft sensor, aka VSS vehicle speed sensor) yesterday and it didn't help. I am going to change the ISS (input shaft sensor) today, had to wait for them to bring it in from another store so going to go pick it up in a few... I'm wondering if maybe the P0732 and P0731 that refer to incorrect ratio meant that the ISS and OSS are not in sync with each other... from what I have read it seems like the ISS and OSS need to be working together or there is a whole slew of things that could go wrong (including fuel supply issues that is making me wonder now if it caused the fuel pump to burn out because of them not working together...)


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

rininger85 said:


> I changed the OSS(output shaft sensor, aka VSS vehicle speed sensor) yesterday and it didn't help. I am going to change the ISS (input shaft sensor) today, had to wait for them to bring it in from another store so going to go pick it up in a few... I'm wondering if maybe the P0732 and P0731 that refer to incorrect ratio meant that the ISS and OSS are not in sync with each other... from what I have read it seems like the ISS and OSS need to be working together or there is a whole slew of things that could go wrong (including fuel supply issues that is making me wonder now if it caused the fuel pump to burn out because of them not working together...)


It will be next to impossible to diagnose the problem without a shop manual, code reader, and the right test equipment. You are on the right track with multiple sensors that work together.
Which ones should be outlined in a good shop manual. The testing of any sensor has to be measured, you will need a multimeter for that. Your vehicle is more complex than mine, with electronic transmission the pcm is doing much more. Starting with basics, sensors will have specs they should be within as to resistance, there will be a certain voltage to the sensor also.
There is a lot of information online but anything less than hours of reading a good shop manual in order to understand how the sensors, pcm, and fuel injection all work together is like grasping at straws. Even then, any code you pull may not be the problem anyway, you may have to work back through other sensors that are not putting out a code. Usually tedious and time consuming.


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## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

I ended up changing the ISS saturday morning, still not the problem. The people who changed the transmission for her said they didn't have any of the sensors from the new trans and claimed they used the sensors from her old trans... so I spent $70 on two sensors that weren't the problem, then yesterday she went over to get the shift solenoids off the old transmission and sent me a picture of all of the sensors they had taken off... both of the sensors I replaced were sitting in the picture... ugh some people... so I was able to talk my cousin through finding and removing the shift solenoids through text messages, so I think she has them and I'll get them from her tonight and try swapping them out to see if that makes a difference or not (assuming I can get to them with the transmission in the vehicle... it turned out they don't look like the pictures I've been seeing from google saying they are pictures of the transmission that is in her car... not sure why... I thought it was a CD4E transmission and it sounds like Ford used the same transmission in pretty much all their little cars with transaxles so not sure what the deal is. 

I found out I do have access to a complete diagnostic computer at work (but I have never used one so not sure how complex it is), so I am thinking I am going to go get the car at lunch and drive it across town and leave it at my work instead of over at the dealership... I feel better working on it in our parking lot rather than working on it in the dealership parking lot (I've been moving it to the shopping plaza parking lot next to the dealership to work on it, then moving it back to the dealership to park overnight, but not sure if the shift solenoids are going to be a one night deal being able to take them out and replace them in just a couple hours so need it someplace it's not going to be a big deal if it's disabled...)


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

rininger85 said:


> I ended up changing the ISS saturday morning, still not the problem. The people who changed the transmission for her said they didn't have any of the sensors from the new trans and claimed they used the sensors from her old trans... so I spent $70 on two sensors that weren't the problem, then yesterday she went over to get the shift solenoids off the old transmission and sent me a picture of all of the sensors they had taken off... both of the sensors I replaced were sitting in the picture... ugh some people... so I was able to talk my cousin through finding and removing the shift solenoids through text messages, so I think she has them and I'll get them from her tonight and try swapping them out to see if that makes a difference or not (assuming I can get to them with the transmission in the vehicle... it turned out they don't look like the pictures I've been seeing from google saying they are pictures of the transmission that is in her car... not sure why... I thought it was a CD4E transmission and it sounds like Ford used the same transmission in pretty much all their little cars with transaxles so not sure what the deal is.
> 
> I found out I do have access to a complete diagnostic computer at work (but I have never used one so not sure how complex it is), so I am thinking I am going to go get the car at lunch and drive it across town and leave it at my work instead of over at the dealership... I feel better working on it in our parking lot rather than working on it in the dealership parking lot (I've been moving it to the shopping plaza parking lot next to the dealership to work on it, then moving it back to the dealership to park overnight, but not sure if the shift solenoids are going to be a one night deal being able to take them out and replace them in just a couple hours so need it someplace it's not going to be a big deal if it's disabled...)


You're doing everything the right way. :goodjob:
Too bad not EVERYONE does..........life would be so much easier. :hammer:

Hopefully, you'll get it soon.
According to the various websites, it should have been that transmission, but during changeover years (about every 5) they sometimes look different or used a substitute.
I've got a different truck and a slightly different tranny problem that has been worked on a few times over the last two years that indicated a shift solenoid problem per the engine code.
After several replacement parts I've concluded that the overdrive gear in mine is probably worn out (almost 400,000 miles) but she still runs like a scalded dog so I'll drop a rebuilt transmission in her the day she finally quits pulling and taking me to work every day.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
:spinsmiley:


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## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

I removed the shift solenoid last night (that was a pain!) looking up the specs on what the shift solenoid should run it said I should be able to measure 20-30 ohms resistance or the solenoid was bad. The one I took off I only measured 19.7 ohms, but the one off her old transmission only measures 20.4 ohms. I went ahead and started putting it back together with the one reading 20.4 ohms because at least it is within spec although I don't know of 0.7 ohms is enough to make a difference (she can't afford to spend $230 to buy a new one right now for something that we're not positive is the problem). I had moved the car over to my work yesterday at lunch so now I don't have to worry about it being towed or worry about someone yelling at me for working on it in the parking lot, so I stayed here working on it for almost 4 hours last night, almost got it all reassembled but it looked like it was about to downpour and I had been at work for 16 hours at that point so I decided it was time to go home to do chores before dark and I'll finish reinstalling everything tonight if the weather holds out. I am not very optimistic that this is going to work because the very small difference in the shift solenoids doesn't seem like enough to make a difference, but what do I know... I'll be pessimistic until it is back together and then if it works I'll be overjoyed, if it doesn't I won't be let down any further. 

To access the transaxle I had to remove the battery, remove the battery tray, and remove one of the cooling hoses and then it was still interesting trying to reach some of the top bolts. There is a large plug that comes off the shift solenoids and snaps in place through a hole in the top of the transaxle housing. In order to get enough clearance to push the plug down and remove it you have to completely remove the valve body which means I lost a couple quarts of transmission fluid and made the reassembly process a real pain because my hands and tools were so slick and even using shop rags to try and clean my hands and tools off it just got to a point where I couldn't grip anything. One thing I noticed while removing the valve body was that it has a bunch of holes in it that I could see springs in them. As I was moving them around I could hear one of the springs sliding back and forth freely clinking from end to end... so I don't know what it is or if it is supposed to do that, but none of the other springs did that... does raise a question on if maybe that spring is broke and needing replaced... but I'll reassemble tonight and see if the shift solenoid fixed it or not before I go any further.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

This is an explanation of the springs........

http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/transmission-shift-solenoid.html

And this is a little more trouble shooting help, although after you read it, you might not be thrilled.........

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/how-can-i-tell-if-my-transmission-is-bad-1


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## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

Thanks farmrbrown, with that last link I think that is pretty clear what the problem probably is. I did reassemble the car on tuesday and drove it again and still not shifting with the shift solenoid replaced, so I have already eliminated the three things I think you need to eliminate to know it's not an electrical problem. My next plan was to get my hands on the diagnostic computer and plug it in to see what it tells me. My guess is it is probably mechanical problem, I have not taken the pan off the trans yet but I did notice when I replaced the output shaft sensor that is magnetic there were a bunch of metal shavings that had been stuck to the sensor. I cleaned it off but could probably pull the sensor out again and that would tell me if it has additional damage since I replaced the sensor (although it's a pain to reach, might be easier to take the pan off!)

It won't shift in to 3rd even though 1st and 2nd seem smooth no real jolting or lack of response in those gears, but it has to know something is wrong with 3rd gear so it's not willing to shift in to 3rd. I'll try and get my hands on the computer today and see what I find out from hooking it up.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

Shoot, I was pulling for you to find it was a bad solenoid or wire going to it, etc.
Finding metal shavings in the pan is never a good sign though..........


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Metallic shavings in the pan is normal, the clutch packs will wear over time and that is what you will see. I just changed my fluid and filter after 40K miles for the first time after an overhaul. Big metal? Overhaul time.


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## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

so as it turns out, the CD4E does not have a pan to remove to check for shavings... so I'll end up just draining the fluids I guess and see what kind wash out of it.

I did get my hands on the diagnostic computer yesterday, but not really sure what I'm doing with it... I did poke around and do some self diagnostics with the computer and got a couple new codes to look in to but I'm not sure if I'm qualified to run the computer to know if I did things right or not or if these codes are unrelated or not...

Key On, Engine Off Codes - Fix First
P1705 - Not In P or N During KOEO/KOER. This seems like it might be a faulty range sensor? The vehicle was in park when running this KOEO self test.

P1000 OBDII System Checks Incomplete - This seems to be unimportant

P1650 PSP Switch Out of Range - I have no idea what the power steering pump has to do with anything


Engine Running Codes - Fix Second
P1000 OBDII System Checks Incomplete - Again probably unimportant

P1501 VSS out of Range - I already replaced both sensors, so maybe its a wiring short? While driving the vehicle the computer is reading the VSS speed but only thinks the vehicle is going 20mph max even though I was going faster...


CONTINUOUS MEMORY CODES - FIX LAST
P0708 Trans Range Sensor Circuit High Input - it sounds like the transmission will force the high input when it senses something else is wrong to force the "limp home" mode, so this likely will resolve itself if something above is fixed...?

P1702 TRS Circuit intermittent Fault - TRS = Transmission range sensor. I have not replaced this sensor, but I do have the one off the other transmission, so I can try swapping this in, but being in the "Fix last" section might be caused by something else above?

watching the computer as I was driving I was able to see it starts in 1 then shifts to 2, then if I revved it up high where it should have shifted to 3rd it started sputtering and bucking and the computer says it shifted down to 1 even though I don't think it physically did, I can feel when it shifts based on the RPM changes and I don't feel it shifting to 1 even though the computer said it was in 1st. 

The computer I'm using is a Snap-on Solus Pro Scanner... not sure what the capabilities of it are. There are some different adaptive learning/shifting settings but haven't looked to see what that means... I tried turning that on and off and didn't seem to make a difference but I'm not sure what it would have done to know if I would have felt it or not.


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

I don't know a lot. But I did notice that "range sensor" was on both the first and last part of your list. You mention that you have another one to swap in so that might be worth doing. Your post leads me to believe that a faulty range sensor could potentially put the thing into limp mode. (?)


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

P1650 is power steering pressure switch. It controls idle during parking maneuvers.
P1000 may be important.
P1705 also operates as a neutral safety starter switch which should not allow the vehicle to be started if it does not detect P or N.
It the proper voltage is being supplied to the sensors and the sensors are within specs, you have to look at the pcm.


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## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

Bellyman said:


> I don't know a lot. But I did notice that "range sensor" was on both the first and last part of your list. You mention that you have another one to swap in so that might be worth doing. Your post leads me to believe that a faulty range sensor could potentially put the thing into limp mode. (?)


I'm going to try changing the range sensor next since it's the cheapest (because I have a different one to try swapping in). I didn't do anything with it over the weekend because I had other things going on Saturday, then spent Sunday working on my own projects at home instead, so I'll probably get back to it tonight. 



elevenpoint said:


> P1650 is power steering pressure switch. It controls idle during parking maneuvers.
> P1000 may be important.
> P1705 also operates as a neutral safety starter switch which should not allow the vehicle to be started if it does not detect P or N.
> It the proper voltage is being supplied to the sensors and the sensors are within specs, you have to look at the pcm.


The P1650 seems irrelevant to my issue, although I'll keep it noted for something else to look at later if/when we get it going (or if in some case we can't get it going then I'll fix it then just in case it somehow feeds in to the system...)

P1000 from what I had seen at least just seemed to be a code that pulls to tell you that you have a problem, that it didn't really tell you anything about what the problem was.

P1705 vehicle starts from park, I haven't tested it in neutral, so I would think since it starts it must not really be a problem if that is the main reason for it.

For voltage test - am I just looking to see that it's getting 12v or would it be sensor specific that I'd have to look up each sensor to see what it is supposed to be receiving? I was kind of thinking it might be a PCM issue, but want to eliminate the cheap options first. Looking at PCM info now it sounds like the original PCM's on these cars were garbage and they had a lot of problems with them shorting out and frying them, but it sounds like it was due to a radio frequency being sent from the spark plugs that the PCM got fried and that it would throw codes related to the PCM / coil if that was the cause of the problem (PCM could still be bad for other reasons though).

Does anyone know what it takes to 'sync' the PCM with the key/anti theft system? It sounds like this is something she would have to have the dealership do? 

I really appreciate everyone's help guiding me in the right direction.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Shop manuals are about $20, that has the sensor testing info.
The pcm on mine converts some to 5 volts, some to 10.5, yours may be different.


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

You mention the P1650. But it brought something to mind. It may be totally irrelevant but I thought I'd throw it out there.

I had an issue with my old '89 Ford Ranger, I think it might have been an anti-lock brake problem. The guy I took it to, when he was checking trouble codes, did some rather odd stuff. I remember him having to step on the brake, rev the engine, and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, and maybe a couple of other things that made zero sense to me at the time, but I thought he said that if he didn't, something about the codes being read wouldn't be right. Strange, I know, but I wondered if you might be seeing things that aren't really problems that show up because of a certain procedure (or lack of) that isn't readily known. (?) 

Just throwing it out there. Again, may not have any relevance at all. 

Sure wishing you good luck as you get if figured out.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Bellyman said:


> You mention the P1650. But it brought something to mind. It may be totally irrelevant but I thought I'd throw it out there.
> 
> I had an issue with my old '89 Ford Ranger, I think it might have been an anti-lock brake problem. The guy I took it to, when he was checking trouble codes, did some rather odd stuff. I remember him having to step on the brake, rev the engine, and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, and maybe a couple of other things that made zero sense to me at the time, but I thought he said that if he didn't, something about the codes being read wouldn't be right. Strange, I know, but I wondered if you might be seeing things that aren't really problems that show up because of a certain procedure (or lack of) that isn't readily known. (?)
> 
> ...


OBD1 diagnosis does include those odd parts to it, that's part of the procedure or other codes can come up.
His will be OBD2 which is a different procedure. That is outlined in the shop manual.


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

elevenpoint said:


> OBD1 diagnosis does include those odd parts to it, that's part of the procedure or other codes can come up.
> His will be OBD2 which is a different procedure. That is outlined in the shop manual.


Thanks, I didn't know when OBD2 came into it's own. Kinda forgot about that. 

Anyway, hope my showing if ignorance was at least a touch amusing. :spinsmiley:


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## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

Bellyman I learned something new too, I've never really dealt with OBDI, everything has been OBDII since I've been driving (or at least vehicles that I've had to have codes pulled on, but this is my first time actually having the diagnostic computer to read it myself).

I think the shop manual for this car will probably cover my wife's car too (2008 escape), so I may go pick it up, I'm hoping the wife decides to sell hers before it starts giving us too many problems, but we're a little less than 3 months away from having our first child so her car might be sticking with us for a while until we get our finances straightened out again with a little one to worry about =)


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## Robotron (Mar 25, 2012)

Check your codes here. 
https://edgeproducts.com/app/uploads/2014/08/customer_support_article-pdf-41.pdf
I would clean all ground connections that you can find. Clean the edge connectors going into the pcm. You may have either a few different problems or a bad pcm. P1000 states the pcm cannot complete its internal test. That's not a good sign. He parts cannon can and will get expensive. Get the manual and save some money.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Shop manual. I'd call a transmission shop and ask them if they have any suggestions. You might get lucky.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...13&_nkw=2004+ford+escape+shop+manual&_sacat=0


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

That code 1000 is letting you know that 1 or more monitor tests have not been completed. That will only clear through normal driving conditions and certain factors. Gas tank between 1/2 & 3/4, above 40 degrees and below 8000 feet or the EVAP won't test out. That code cannot be erased, it will itself after all monitoring test are satisfactory, if not you will get another code pertaining to the problem.


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## Mark David Clow (Apr 6, 2018)

elevenpoint said:


> That code 1000 is letting you know that 1 or more monitor tests have not been completed. That will only clear through normal driving conditions and certain factors. Gas tank between 1/2 & 3/4, above 40 degrees and below 8000 feet or the EVAP won't test out. That code cannot be erased, it will itself after all monitoring test are satisfactory, if not you will get another code pertaining to the problem.


Im having the same issues with my 2002 escape, nothing is making sense i have no codes showing when i do a scan with my obd 2 scanner my o/d light is flashing, iv got no speedo and no shift from 2nd to 3rd. Iv replaced the input shaft sensor and the output shaft sensor still no speedo or shift. I have also checked the wires from both sensors to the pcm. I used a ohms tester theres no brakes in the wires to pcm.
Please help!


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## Mark David Clow (Apr 6, 2018)

Mark David Clow said:


> Im having the same issues with my 2002 escape, nothing is making sense i have no codes showing when i do a scan with my obd 2 scanner my o/d light is flashing, iv got no speedo and no shift from 2nd to 3rd. Iv replaced the input shaft sensor and the output shaft sensor still no speedo or shift. I have also checked the wires from both sensors to the pcm. I used a ohms tester theres no brakes in the wires to pcm.
> Please help!


Iv also had pcm out the verify the circuit board is not damaged or burnt visually it looked ok


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## Mark David Clow (Apr 6, 2018)

Mark David Clow said:


> Iv also had pcm out the verify the circuit board is not damaged or burnt visually it looked ok


I also have tested for ground on both vss and theres a good ground in both plugs, then on the output shaft sensor iv tested the signal wire for any increase or decrease in voltage when wheel speed is increased and it holds a steady .3 .5 ac volts. I read in that if this voltage verys to replace pcm


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## Robotron (Mar 25, 2012)

This thread is a perfect example of asking for help on a technical issue. I hope the problem is solved, as it’s a zombie thread. But we have a new interest in this thread by someone else. Their problem sounds close to the op problem. But without the op posting the repair we have no way to know. If you ask for help, please be kind enough to let’s us know what the final result was. If that had been done the new respondent would have a chance at resolution.


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## rininger85 (Feb 29, 2016)

I didn't figure it out. It was my cousin's car and she had had someone else put a transmission in it but it was a transmission from the junk yard so I think it had issues with it too. She decided to scrap it and bought a new car rather than putting more money in to fixing it. The transmissions on escapes are notorious for having problems... we're just keeping our fingers crossed that my wife's 2008 escape lasts us a couple more years until my truck is paid off before we have to replace her car but everything I've read and friends experience with the same transmissions says eventually the transmission will puke.


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