# Storage for small tractor



## Hitch (Oct 19, 2016)

I know this is a very broad post but hopefully I can get some guidelines.

Our property is currently raw land, no infrastructure or buildings. In the Spring, we'd like to get a barn style Tuff Shed installed. We want the barn style so we can have the loft since we'll be staying in it when we visit the property for the first few years.

We can put a 10' x 12' (120 sq. ft.) shed on the property without a permit. However, we can put up to a 400 sq. ft. shed if we want to pay around $700 in permit fees. Even though no one wants to pay permit fees we're thinking long term wise and that maybe it would be better to put a bigger shed on the property.

Part of the decision involves eventual storage of a small tractor. I know very little about tractors for home use so could use some help. First question, when looking at door opening what would be safe size door to get for a tractor, both in width and height? Secondly, what about weight. I know Tuff Shed uses metal framing for the flooring but don't know the weight rating. Is there a particular weight rating we should shoot for that can support a tractor without damaging the floor?


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## flewism (Apr 2, 2007)

Go look at tractors, CUT's (compact utility tractors) basically come in (3) sizes 48" , 60" and 72" wide track with HP and weight relevant to rear wheel track width.

Get folding ROPS (roll bar) to reduce height of unit.


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## ihuntgsps (Mar 10, 2008)

I personally would pay the permit fee and build a shed. If you can only do 400 sq ft shed I would make it 18 x 22 and as tall as possible. Most small tractors will fit through a 7' garage door height with no issue but obviously you want to verify the tractor you want will fit. 

I would use a gravel floor, or even better concrete floor, then build a pole building structure on top of it sided with normal building tin (3' wide sections x whatever length needed). Pole buildings are better and cheaper than the ready made Tuff Sheds I have seen and having a solid floor would be wise.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

If theft is a problem, get a metal shipping container. Put a puck type lock on the doors. The best would be a 40' container with doors on both ends. Once you moved there permanently you'll have more choices.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

I like Darren's or ihuntgsps ideas. Actually, I have both a shipping container, and 2 non-permitted sheds (not a kit shed). And I suppose I can throw in two tarp sheds (not worth it, other than for building material storage). 
Shipping container idea is easy peasy, but at a cost. Very secure! Especially one with lock box. No one can see what is inside. Need to buy a good one or moisture issues can come into play. I think door height is around 8'...I recall it was big enough to stick in my mini excavator...
If you have carpenter skills, I'd build a permitted shed. Your square foot limitations are generous...imho. 400sqft can hold a lot of stuff. And you can have 10ft or higher ceilings (usually no limitations on ceiling height). You may have to wait to stick in a loft until it is signed off, as attic floor may be considered in sqft calculation. 
I'd build a 15x26 shed with a steep gabled roof...have hefty ceiling joists. Then, once signed off, lay down ply on ceiling joists, and away you go. Heck, depending on how picky your bureaucracy is, I would even consider throwing in a dormer or two after the fact. 
For entrance, I'd have a hefty garage door 8, 10 or 12' wide. 

I am not a fan of kit sheds at all....they use bare minimum standard wood and dimensions. They may look pretty in brochure, but they are not built to last. 
It comes to whether you can stomach staring at a kit shed or a solid shed in the years to come. 

How close are you to power? Do you have a power source? What about water? You said no services, raw land...I'd make sure you can get water in your neck of the woods before going crazy (either via muni supplied water, or known well potential).
Would get power from road, if possible, first. You need power to run tools. 
I did my first shed (electrical shed) via generator, but it is a small shed.


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## Hitch (Oct 19, 2016)

Good info thanks! I did consider a shipping container but don't care for the way they look. Unfortunately, where it would be placed is close to the eventual build site and I just don't want to see it out there.

One of my buddies is a general contractor and even he said the savings of building a shed from scratch as opposed to buying a pre-built Tuff Shed is negligible. But with the Tuff Shed you do get a good warranty. So we're pretty set on the Tuff Shed route. Just not sure on the size yet. One thought though is we may not want a real big one in case we have to move it later since we don't know where a well could go on the property.

We're going to go down to the Tuff Shed store after the new year to talk to them a little more about them and try to get it narrowed down. I just want to get a door opening that would be big enough for a small tractor.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Had a pretty good look-see at Tuff Shed, then I had a look at the manufacturer that supplies the 'barrier' (which is not approved for residential use - I wonder why?). Odd, they don't call it siding, but a barrier...

For example, looking at Tuff Shed 16x24 (384sqft -Premier PRO Tall Ranch), it is about 13K in materials (no labor). The door is 4' x 6'7" which is plenty big for lawn tractors with a deck smaller than 48". 

They use OSB paneling that is doped with zinc borate,wax,glue and resin coating. Basically, it is like PT wood that is painted. Albeit, I'd take PT wood over OSB any day (I really dislike OSB...lol...huge discussion threads on contractor forums about it, which naturally, I joined in:hobbyhors). Plus, PT wood has copper infused in it. 

Roof has 7/16" OSB with aluminum foil. Shed has 10yr warranty. I would consider the warranty garbage...I suspect you'd have to prove it wasn't caused by improper building or you didn't have proper vapor barrier protection on bottom. Besides, if you do the shingles properly, and stick on gutters, the rest of shed is protected. The whole shed is your typical bottom of barrel framing 2x4s, with engineered 2x4 joists (I like they noted they use steel plates in rafters/trusses...that is SOP for pretty much all engineered trusses). They also mentioned they use a double top wall plate, which again, is SOP. And #15 paper is weak...With respect to engineered trusses...likely no room for a sleeping attic. 

They use T&G 3/4" flooring because it sounds like they skimp on floor joists (20" or 24" c/c). They mention it is suitable for walking traffic, which is perplexing...a foot can exert much more force per sq inch than say a garden tractor. 

I get the convenience of these kit sheds, but 'personally' I wouldn't touch them. Long ago, I was tasked with building one, and that would be the last one I ever build. I ended up having to buy additional lumber/materials to reinforce shed. Plus, their penchant for under-sizing walls left little headroom (high shelving etc). 

Ok, I am not trying to dissuade you (maybe a little , as you appear to have made up your mind, but to me a little more effort, like a concrete slab floor, 2x6 walls (can really insulate it), ridge beam, 2x12 ceiling joists//rafters, hardi siding, and you've got a shed that will last forever, not fall apart after ten years. 

Money wise, perhaps there is little difference (kit shed would likely be cheaper), but utility wise, there is no comparison. Plus, you get a functional attic and a floor that can you can park your car on. 

To be honest, I am not sure who their customer is? I doesn't sound it is pre-assembled, so one has build from scratch? I suppose it would be slightly easier. I found the 'directions' for the kit shed I built confusing, in part because they violated standard building practices (they had wall studs like 16" 24" 24" 24" 16"). But I didn't like the rafters to be offset from wall studs, so I was stuck...lol

The one plus, is if you build it on skids, you could move it, if need be. 

Please do not consider my post 'negative' in any way...I just enjoy the building science behind it all. It's your dime, not mine. Best.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Me, I would build or buy the shed under the permit size, set. Later add a lean-to maybe 8'x12'. 2 or 3-4"x4" posts, a 4"x6" header on top of the posts (or 2-2"x6" nailed together). A 2"x6" lag screwed to the studs along the long side of the building to attach 2"x6" rafters. Use the shed for tools and stuff that needs to stay dry and put the tractor in the leanto on a packed rock floor. Here, these buildings without foundation are not even taxed....James


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## Hitch (Oct 19, 2016)

Melli, I do appreciate your feedback and yes my desire of buying a Tuff Shed was never the intent of this thread. It was more about finding a unit large enough to accommodate a small tractor. 

Yes, I know they're not the greatest structures in the world, but they'll be fine for their ultimate purpose, storage. For the first few years we'll be visiting the property maybe 2-3 times a month, during the spring and summer. For having a roof over our head a Tuff Shed will be just fine.

The Premier Pro Tall is what we're leaning towards. I will need to see if the loft counts towards the sq. footage. I didn't know about the differences in materials so will look at that more and we'd have them built it onsite. I will ask about the weight rating when we look at them. I really don't want to pour a foundation due to the additional cost and more permit requirements, drawings and such.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Hitch said:


> Melli, I do appreciate your feedback and yes my desire of buying a Tuff Shed was never the intent of this thread. It was more about finding a unit large enough to accommodate a small tractor.
> 
> Yes, I know they're not the greatest structures in the world, but they'll be fine for their ultimate purpose, storage. For the first few years we'll be visiting the property maybe 2-3 times a month, during the spring and summer. For having a roof over our head a Tuff Shed will be just fine.
> 
> The Premier Pro Tall is what we're leaning towards. I will need to see if the loft counts towards the sq. footage. I didn't know about the differences in materials so will look at that more and we'd have them built it onsite. I will ask about the weight rating when we look at them. I really don't want to pour a foundation due to the additional cost and more permit requirements, drawings and such.


No worries, I never drew any conclusions on what you wanted...I might have drawn conclusions on Tuff Sheds though...lol
I agree about finding out exactly what the floor is rated for...they talk about it on their website (they reference something as I skimmed over it). Generally, labor and material costs are about 50/50, so with a kit shed, they should be able to assemble one for you well under the cost of the shed. IMO - as long as they do a decent job on the shingles, you should be good for a while. Your in California after all...
I don't see any ability to have a loft/attic in these things...pitch is too shallow. Probably have to throw bunk beds at one end as a temp solution. 
All the best...have any pics of your property? I'm in the NW, and have always pined about northern California as the place to be...


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## susanneb (Feb 17, 2005)

If what you choose to put up comes close to the non-permit sq. footage limits, double-check to see if your jurisdiction goes by footprint or roof size. 

Our county building dept. allows 200 sq. ft. without permit. I asked if they included roof overhang in the tota square footage, and they said that they allow only a minimal overhang. 

This may be obvious to those dealing regularly with building permits, but that would not include us. Since we want maximum shelter (this is a run-in shed for horses), we could easily have gone over and incurred a hefty building permit fee plus fine.


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