# Septic problems



## eclipchic (Oct 24, 2010)

I asked my initial question about septic on the General Chat, I probably should have put it here. So we have major septic issues going on. We had the tank pumped and it filled back up a week later. My DH has dug 3 spots away from the tank to discover a single red ceramic/terra cotta colored pipe. We had a friend who is a septic installer out yesterday who gave us some advice.

One would be to have the system pumped out again, replace a section of pipe that is leaking, clear any noticable congestion and pray for the best. The other would be to replace the entire leech field which can cost anywhere from $5000 to $15000.

DH wants to pump the septic out into the yard, which I'm extremely uncomfortable with (animals, toddler and oh we are growing a garden downhill of where he wants it to go). But if we call a septic pumping service they might call the board of health which would require us to replace the whole system or at least the part after the tank.

He wants to take the cheap route, I want it done right. I don't want to deal with this again in the near future. It will take my entire retirement account though to pay for it and maybe then some (the "then some" would have to come from my mom, we don't have it)

Anyone done it the way my DH wants to do it that maybe could tell me the pros and cons?


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

I'd just dig the broken outlet pipe and replace it.


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## hillbillytn (Sep 28, 2009)

tank is suppose to be almost full. pumping again is a wast. what are your lines doing . are they wet or dry.


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

In Minnesota, raw sewage on the ground at a private residence is classified as an "imminent health threat." If sewage is simply bubbling up to the surface of the ground from a plugged system there is typically no fines, just a requirement that the problem be fixed. If one is caught actively and purposefully pumping sewage onto the ground, there can be fines, as well as the requirement to fix the problem.


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## texican (Oct 4, 2003)

I'd fix what was broke first, and go from there. Tanks are supposed to be full... look at a diagram of how one works, and you'll see. Your tank may have had relatively little sediment in it (only reason I know for pumping), and the money was wasted. Your problem is between the tank and the field... if you know there's a broken pipe, I'd replace it first.

Good luck!


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## eclipchic (Oct 24, 2010)

@Cabin fever- I'm sure that law exists in Indiana too. We had a septic service come pump it out today.

So my DH dug all around and found the orange pipe connection to the tank which was shattered. Another spot where that same pipe is joined is also broken. The pipe itself is pretty full of something nasty. I guess the plan now is to fix the broken clogged up pipe and go from there.

Our compromise is to get the soil tests done anyhow so if this doesn't work we know what kind and expense a new system would be


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## eclipchic (Oct 24, 2010)

texican said:


> I'd fix what was broke first, and go from there. Tanks are supposed to be full... look at a diagram of how one works, and you'll see. Your tank may have had relatively little sediment in it (only reason I know for pumping), and the money was wasted. Your problem is between the tank and the field... if you know there's a broken pipe, I'd replace it first.
> 
> Good luck!


We had to pump it one way or another to be able to dig the pipe without having to dig through sewage water. Although it was costly I'm glad we had a service pump it now


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## Waiting Falcon (Nov 25, 2010)

Field lines have to be able to drain, i.e. proper slope, soil that perks. They should not be in an area of heavy use- as in driven over.
Something caused the drain to break ! Once you get it repaired, if you have a good soil perk, you should be OK .
You can always use a sawdust bucket for emergencies.


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

Anything that anyone on the thread, including myself, says has to fit within what your board of health demand and what the local contractors charge. That said:

The installation of our entire septic system cost $2,500 about 4 years ago. 

If you live in a suburb or have close neighbors, you have a social responsibility to do it right. In most situations, a loan is better than depleting or tapping into a retirement account.

If you just have a problem leading to the tank, as it appears, renting a backhoe and replacing the line is a cheap and decent fix. If you have a problem with the leach field, and you have another area that can be used, it is not unheard of to leave the old field in place and build a new one. That avoids disposal costs of the contaminated dirt from the old field. Archeologists dig around in outhouse holes all the time, and IMO, removing old soil rather than letting it naturally decontaminate over the years, is an expensive waste.

Raw sewage on the surface is not a good idea. I don't get overwrought about it, since on a farm most animals refuse to flush after using the toilet, but typhoid can be a killer.

FWIW, allowed spacing in Alabama between a well and properly installed septic is 50'. Unless the waste is on top of the soil where the rain can flood it, it tends to stay in the same place. (Chemicals can be a different matter).


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## eclipchic (Oct 24, 2010)

Update: Dh removed a bunch more dirt and the pipe has a T and goes off into two other directions. he removed a few sections of pipe and its just full of roots, sludge and biomat. I think we are looking as a new system. This is more than just replacing pipes


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

I am of the opinion that previous owners never pumped the septic tank and consequently your drainfield piping is full of sludge. 

I also am getting the impression that your drainfield piping was never enveloped in gravel.


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

If there is a T, you are on the leach field side of the tank. I agree that it sounds like a new field is in the cards. If money is a problem, and husband has the time and knowledge, a new field can be dug, inspected, gravel and pipe laid, more inspection, and the job finished PROVIDING that the inspector is willing to go along and do the extra trips. However, that means going in as a supplicant and stating up front that EVERYTHING the inspector wants will be done AND the inspector has to be willing to go along. A bond may be required. It'll still be costly, but that $15K figure you cited is outrageous.


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## eclipchic (Oct 24, 2010)

Harry Chickpea said:


> If there is a T, you are on the leach field side of the tank. I agree that it sounds like a new field is in the cards. If money is a problem, and husband has the time and knowledge, a new field can be dug, inspected, gravel and pipe laid, more inspection, and the job finished PROVIDING that the inspector is willing to go along and do the extra trips. However, that means going in as a supplicant and stating up front that EVERYTHING the inspector wants will be done AND the inspector has to be willing to go along. A bond may be required. It'll still be costly, but that $15K figure you cited is outrageous.


I'm glad to hear thats an outrageous number, I'm expecting costly...but that high is more than we have

I would suspect its never been pumped or maintained. They installed a patio right on top of the septic access and the prior owners had lived here 10 years so I don't think they knew where it was or they would have thought more than twice about doing that. THere is gravel around the pipes but its a pretty limited amount, below the pipes not above


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## Mavors (Mar 30, 2007)

I'd do everything I could to repair the existing leach field in my area. Just an FYI.....find out what septic system they are requiring these days in your area. I know in mine a leach field replacement would have to be upgraded to a wisconsin mound system which can easily set you back 15000 to 20000 here. All my neighbors have leach fields while I've got this 120 ft mound and pumps to maintain.

Mav


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## davel745 (Feb 2, 2009)

I don&#8217;t know if this would help or not but you can get a rubber boot type of thing and clamp it to the Orange-burg pipe and then connect it to schedule 40 PVC and re connect it to the tank. This is a temporary fix till you can replace the Orange-burg pipe. As far as the gunk it can be flushed out of the pipe and then reconnect to PVC. Try to use hydraulic cement to connect to the tank. The tank is supposed to be full of fermenting liquid and it seeps off to the leach field. This is about the same thing texican said. I think he is right on.


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## eclipchic (Oct 24, 2010)

Flushing it won't do much for all the roots though and they are completely clogging 2 of the 3 pipes right along with all the biomat. We are getting soil and perc tests done Thursday to see what kind of system we are looking at. fingers crossed its the 4-5k version


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## eclipchic (Oct 24, 2010)

The somewhat good news is that we have fantastic soil so we will be replacing the field next week. Its going to be around $3600-$4000


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Hey at least with a fresh start you can stay ahead of problems from now on.


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