# Tractor Tire Chains



## fixer1958 (Dec 12, 2005)

Are they good on ice? I would imagine they would be with no other real options.
Anyway I am dealing with a 1/2 mile drive that has a hill with about a 30 degree grade and 25' drop on each side. Snow I can handle by itself, but you add a 1/2" of ice underneath and things get interesting. Sliding down the hill sideways backwards and forwardwards makes the heart rate climb a little.

I have checked prices on chains and they run from $250 to $500 a pair for 14.9x28 plus shipping and they run about #125 for a pair.
Any other cheaper options that are effective. I have thought of fluid in the tires, but I don't think it will be any better because it is ice.
Mud and snow you can't stick it. Ice, I may as well a put a blade on the lawn mower.


Any suggestions other than a 4x4 tractor. Thats not an option.


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## Ken in Maine (May 10, 2002)

I have a 4X4 Kabota and have chains on it since day one. I have had this tractor for 4 years. They make a huge difference in traction. They are good not only on ice but in the woods. We have very hilly terrain and the chains get me around with no problem. 

I use my tractor to plow my over 2000 foot ROW and it is all up hill, My chains have the tungston tips.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Yeah they really help. If its cold enough and you mess about you can get a tractor to skate on the chains though and lose control. Ice is nobody's friend. Loaded tires help with chains becuase the weight helps crush through the ice. I have a set I was given I have to go get. They also crush up the ice so glare ice on the lane is less of a problem.


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## woodsy (Oct 13, 2008)

Yup, got to have them for plowing snow on ice.
I built my own to fit 11.2 X 24 tires., Got about $150.00 in the pair.
Ladder type , every other cross chain is studded for real grabbing power. about 15-20 cross chains per tire. Takes a little figuring but if you are handy.....
They are on AG tires so have to adjust them occasionally as they have a tendency to slip down in between the tread, unless you can get them real tight.
You should be able to have chain cut to lengths you need if you decide to build your own.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

I use tire chains too. they work great on ice untill you get them sliding but unless you are not smooth in the moves you make it is hard to get them sliding.

A friend goes to a motor cycle shop that sponcers winter ice raceing. He buys the screws not the spikes and screws them into the lugs on his tractor tires for winter. they do work good on hard snow and ice but don't do much in the deep loose snow.

 Al


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## Blu3duk (Jun 2, 2002)

I grew up with the ladder type and diamond ladder modified [similar to a net but not quite as efficient] for a tractor and used ring chains on skidders in the woods. the rings chains are the best, usually about a grand for a pair give or take and they are made for use on ice trails that happen with kidding of logs in winter months.

As Ross says watch out, cause chains will grip, and then they will fill up when you clamp the binders on and turn you loose for a really fun pucker factor ten on a downhill ride.... I doubt your grade is 30% cause in mountains, if there is a 30% slope you cant run a d-8 crawler on it and catch a log to steep to stop even with a blade down, although you can still run a feller buncher and cut logs over the hill that far [been there done that but not on ice] 

30 degree grade equals 43.30 vertical lift [rise] in 75 feet horizontal distance..... for stadia measure, assuming the stadia slope distance of 100.

Tan [slope degrees] = vertical rise distance divided by horizontal distance
where a 30% slope is equal to a 57.7 percent grade in accordance to the table I have in my survey books..... 
% grade is 100x Tan [slope] or 100xvertical rise divided by horizontal distance

mathematical formula for pert near everything.... except pucker power factor... that is judged by the person "sucking seat cushion".

William
Idaho


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

William there are days your posts have me chuckling all week!


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## fixer1958 (Dec 12, 2005)

I may be off a little on the slope degree. Not by much I don't think.
Your ciphering didn't include the angle of decent and speed backwards and sometimes sideways which by, I think it is Newtons law the angle increases mentally by a factor of 3 and possibly a few more points when there is a 20' drop on either side.
The pucker factor can't be included because there is a big hole in the seat. No suction value whatsoever.
I appreciate the input. I stand corrected.

Anyway, my FIL has some chains for 38" tires that I can make fit with a little time. 

I thought about the stud thing and have 150 #14x3/4" sheetmetal screws I can try in the lugs as last resort. I am thinking those may rip the tires up if or when they come out. Have to try it and see.


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## Up North (Nov 29, 2005)

chains, ballast, and a careful operator maximizes effectiveness and safety. Be careful out there.


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## Madsaw (Feb 26, 2008)

fixer1958 said:


> I may be off a little on the slope degree. Not by much I don't think.
> Your ciphering didn't include the angle of decent and speed backwards and sometimes sideways which by, I think it is Newtons law the angle increases mentally by a factor of 3 and possibly a few more points when there is a 20' drop on either side.
> The pucker factor can't be included because there is a big hole in the seat. No suction value whatsoever.
> I appreciate the input. I stand corrected.
> ...



Yeap them 38's will work fine. Use a bolt cutter or hacksaw to shorten them up when you get them one. You can always add the removed sections back on at a later time for bigger tires.
Here in WI, once winter hits atleast one of the tracotrs wears chains. Its the only way to go. Using the screws will only rip up your tires. I use a set of double ring chains on a 1030 Case. The tractor weights close to 12000. It will go through anything, but will ice skate with the best of them if your not careful. I also have the standard cross link type chains on a 860 Ford. That poor little tractor with no weight in the tires still spins if you let out the clutch to fast.
Another thing to do is try to pick up 2 sets of heavy truck chains. I mean the ones for delivery trucks and such. The ones that run 20 inch tires. Hook a set together and then put on your tractor. Then you can either trim them to fit for length ot you can just got around on the extra section of cahin and bolt it to the main tight chains every so far for added traction. The bolting can also be done with your 38's too.
Always look at what you have to do. Its easier to attack teh snow down hill then it is trying to fight your way up hill in it.
Bob


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

The screws do not tear the tire up. Infact unless you are ripping and tearing you will not loose a screw all winter and will have to pull them out in the spring or change to summer tires. But for the added traction and just plowing snow they will work.
Ifin they tore out ice racers would not use them as they some times have to run several heats in a row before the finals.

 Al


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

we've been to quite a few farm auctions over the years. You can literally "steal" tractor chains for a few bucks. Many times the chains go for less than the recycling price of steel.

In fact, I have a set of garden tractor/ATV chains that are about 11" wide and 5' long that I bought at an auction. Any one interested? I have no ieda what size tires these would fit.


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## Madsaw (Feb 26, 2008)

alleyyooper said:


> The screws do not tear the tire up. Infact unless you are ripping and tearing you will not loose a screw all winter and will have to pull them out in the spring or change to summer tires. But for the added traction and just plowing snow they will work.
> Ifin they tore out ice racers would not use them as they some times have to run several heats in a row before the finals.
> 
> Al


But, they are not pulling out the studs in the summer and forceing small pebbles into the screw holes either. That is where I would get worried. Its cheaper to get a set of chains then replace tires in a few yrs. Even though there is less speed involed there is more bite to the surface from the tire on the tractor. When its spinning with studds in it and it gits a good bite. It will have a tendency cause small tears in the lug that in time will get pebbles and such worked into it over the yrs.
It would be great if a person could afford a set of chains like log skidders use. They are called bear paws. They are a H pattern chain, but instead of chain links in the middle forming the H. They use a big circle of steel. Kind of reminds me of a horse shoe with cleats on it. Its easy for a logger to drop 4000 on a set to go all the way around a skidder.
Bob


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

It's too bad some inventor doesn't make rubber "tracks" like those used on skidsteers with embedded carbide studs to slip over the wheels in the winter.


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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

In a emergency a regular log chain can be used. wrap it around the tire and trough holes on the rim. It is for emergency use only but does work.


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## stranger (Feb 24, 2008)

fishhead said:


> It's too bad some inventor doesn't make rubber "tracks" like those used on skidsteers with embedded carbide studs to slip over the wheels in the winter.




here's what we had on a couple tractors in the early 50s, we had them on an 8N ford and a WD Allis Chalmers

http://www.tractorshed.com/contents/tstr22.htm


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

We had a half track plant trees here 40 years ago, very neat to watch though I was just a kid. I want to say it was an 8n but it might have been a Deere too. My brother would know.


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## Blu3duk (Jun 2, 2002)

For a concept from 1929, watch this 11 minute silent movie video.

http://frc4u.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=114

kind a neat idea, and no it aint chains.... and make sure your tirechains are tight cause you can spin the tire inside if they are to loose, I like using rubber snubbers around the outside edge to keep them snugged up, smae as on my pickup or other rigs.

William


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## fixer1958 (Dec 12, 2005)

Got the chains on with alot of effort. They are tight, very tight. I had to take out one section because they are for 38"s. They are an H pattern chain in the tread area with big rings. Very heavy and heavy duty.

Took it out this morning after last nights blizzard. It's a freaking miracle. Steering can still be a problem if I get the front tires in real deep snow (1' or more) but other than that it's a freaking miracle.

It would still slip some but I would have to be going through knee deep snow and then it wasn't that much

It walked up and down the 'death hill" like it was nothing. I have always bladed down that hill. It was getting to the top to be able too blade down it, that was always the interesting part.

Blu3duc, I still think that hill is 30 degrees even with the pucker factor disengaged.

If I can keep from ripping the clutch out now, I will be in good shape.


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## springvalley (Jun 23, 2009)

We use to put chains on every year, they do make a big differance. we used the cris-cross chains, but they are all better than none. Cabin said it , look for a farm auction, they do sell cheap, if only one person that needs them shows up. Good luck , Marc.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

This would be a bad time to suggest letting some air outa the tires wouldn't it!  Glad they're working for you though! You can chain the fronts too obviously not being powered limits the effect but they still help.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

If anyonbe is in E Ont. there's a dealer out in St Isidore that has all sorts of used farm equip including some very reasonably priced chains.
http://pffarmequipment.piczo.com/tractorandaccessories(blades)?cr=2&linkvar=000044

Nice guy he's building up his dealership little by little and yeah the website is a ....... well he keeps it pretty much up to date or his daughter does.


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