# Arrrrgghh!! Sewing!!



## Country Lady (Oct 2, 2003)

I started sewing in the 5th grade. (I'm 62 now) I made my own clothes up until a few years ago, when working full-time and home responsibilities would no longer allow me. I was always a size 10 up until a few years ago when age and stress over took me. Now that I'm retired from my job, I'm trying to get back to sewing for myself, but I've put on so much weight, I'm no longer a size 10. I don't seem to ever be able to make anything that fits anymore. Time doesn't allow me to sew a "trial" garment of a pattern. I've worked all day on a beautiful blouse with lace, only to find out it's too small!! I'm so discouraged. It seems that I can't go by a set size pattern like I could when I was a standard size 10. I never know how a size will turn out. Any suggestions?


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## donsgal (May 2, 2005)

Country Lady said:


> I started sewing in the 5th grade. (I'm 62 now) I made my own clothes up until a few years ago, when working full-time and home responsibilities would no longer allow me. I was always a size 10 up until a few years ago when age and stress over took me. Now that I'm retired from my job, I'm trying to get back to sewing for myself, but I've put on so much weight, I'm no longer a size 10. I don't seem to ever be able to make anything that fits anymore. Time doesn't allow me to sew a "trial" garment of a pattern. I've worked all day on a beautiful blouse with lace, only to find out it's too small!! I'm so discouraged. It seems that I can't go by a set size pattern like I could when I was a standard size 10. I never know how a size will turn out. Any suggestions?


A lot of the problem with fitting for me seems to be that almost ALL patterns are now "easy" and are not very well constructed at all. Used to be clothing had darts, facings, and were more form-fitting. Now days it seems like everything is mostly SHAPELESS and not very attractive to any size, large or small.

My advice is to look at the measurements on the back of the pattern envelope and then use one size larger as your cutting guide. This way you have a little extra material available if you need it or you can resew a seam or two if you need it a tad smaller here or there. Also, I look for the more traditional patterns rather than the quick sew, or jiffy type patterns which consist of one or two straight seams and usually end up looking like gunny sacks on me.

Once you find a pattern you like, my gosh, run out and buy three or four of them, and guard them with your life! I have a couple of old stand-bys which are more precious than GOLD. Also, if you have a nice fitting piece of clothing which is worn out, consider using it as a pattern for new clothes. You have enough experience that you don't need "directions" on how to put things together.

Happy sewing!

donsgal


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

Hi Country Lady! I know exactly what you mean.

First thing, DO NOT THINK SIZE! let me repeat that DO NOT THINK SIZE! the sizes on the patterns since about 10 years ago have absolutely NO bearing or comparison to ready to wear. At least in Simplicity, McCalls, Butterick. I don't sew Vogue (too expensive). 

ONLY take your measurements, or those of the person you are sewing for, and compair them to the measurments on the back of the envelope. (My size 6 ready-to-wear daughter comes out about a 12 or 14 pattern dependig on cut). Remember you are ignoring the size on the envlope or you will feel badly about yourself. Then when you lay out the pattern, there on the top is a legend of the inches for the bust, waist, hips make sure against those that you have the right size and remember your measurments and about 2 to 4 inches of ease. 

NOW, you are ready to cut it out. You've done the hardest part of these new patterns.

And I like Kwik-Sew patterns a lot, cause they are about $8 or $9 each, they are on heavy white paper with multiple sizes, and you trace off the size you want, and if you go up or down in size, you just trace off what you need next time. They last for at least 18 years if you do it that way.

Good luck.

Angie

PS: A size 10 use to be is probably about a 16 or so now, so if a 12 in ready to wear, maybe about an 18 or so.... but some patterns go the other way, so look only at the measurments on the back of the envelope.


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## Pink_Carnation (Apr 21, 2006)

One of the recomendations I have used to is measure your clothes that you like the fit of and compare them to the finished measurements of what you are making. This helps you get the amount of ease you like. If you really like the pattern and think you will make multiples of it I would make up the body without the facings, collar, and sleeves to get it fine tuned.


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## Country Lady (Oct 2, 2003)

Thanks for the good suggestions. I definitely know how to sew. I even made some suits for my husband in days gone by. Trying to get back into sewing, after having been away for a while, I'm just having a time with fit. Making up only the body for a fit is a good idea. That wouldn't take much time. Angie, if the pattern says (example) 40 inches for the bust on a certain size, do you still add an inch or two to the bust size for ease, therefore, going up to maybe the next size or two on the pattern? Is this what you mean?


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## prairiegirl (Nov 2, 2004)

I totally agree with Angie's post. I'd like to suggest taking note of all the measurements on the pattern. I've found that the back measurement can be important, too. Years ago, I never thought about that.

I think the patterns we have now are so very different. It might be that the patterns include multiple sizes now. Even the instructions can be confusing and I've been sewing almost as long as Country Lady. I've used patterns that seem to overlook details. They are confusing to new sewers, too.

As for adding an inch and perhaps going up a size, I find that depending on the garment, I do. Some of the newer styles are too form fitting for me.

Good luck!

prairiegirl


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I missed the question earlier, sorry.

Say someone is a 32 inch bust, and the pattern says for 32 inch bust. When I look at the bust front of pattern it will say something along the lines of 34 or 36 inches at that point. 32 inches for the bust, and 2 or 4 inches for the overall ease of the fit... 

Does that explain it well enough?

Angie


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## Karen (Apr 17, 2002)

prairiegirl said:


> Even the instructions can be confusing and I've been sewing almost as long as Country Lady. I've used patterns that seem to overlook details.


I got away from sewing also for many years and did quilts and crafts. I had not looked at a pattern in forever. I just picked up a couple and I was thinking the exact same thing Prairiegirl. Boy are the directions ever different and not very detailed. I use to pick up a pattern and just glance through the instructions to be sure it was do-able; but, I had to sit there and try to figure out those directions. I kept thinking, well, maybe it will be easy when I actually sit down and do the project and it will make sense then. But not so! I'm feeling like a beginner. :Bawling: 

Also, some of the ways they have you doing things could be done so much simpler and better another way. Some things I also wouldn't do in the order they tell you to do them either. They also sure are getting away from pressing like we use to do, aren't they? What's happened to patterns or am I just getting old? :shrug:


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## Puddin (Mar 31, 2003)

OH man.... I"m so glad I"m not the only one!
I have sewn for years, but, until recently, I simply made my own patterns (my sewing was pretty basic). So, have picked up some patterns that I like the look of... made em up.... hmmm.... fitting not as easy as it used to be. I"m having to make patterns from the patterns that i have bought. Not quite what I had in mind! 
I"m 'choosing' to think of this venture as a challenge that has to be overcome.
Gloria


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## rkintn (Dec 12, 2002)

I am pretty new to making clothes. I have quilted for years but it is different. I just recently picked up some pretty basic easy to sew patterns for some dresses for my 6 year old and the sizes are pretty crazy. She is a 6 ready to wear but a 4 or 5 in the patterns. AND I noticed the sizes vary according to the pattern maker as well. I have been very pleased with the dresses...so much so I made her an outfit with pants from one of the patterns. I really really like making her clothes. At least she doesn't look like a prostitot..which is what some of the ready made stuff makes her look like. As far as instructions go...I told my best friend that they were written by a psychotic monkey who doesn't speak English LOL It was awful trying to figure out how bias tape works according to the pattern instructions. I did a step by step for my best friend on my blog LOL I am still not sure if it is 100 percent right but it gets the job done so I am sticking with it. And the pants I made woulda be way wrong if I had followed the directions to the letter...I kinda had to figure those out on my own. I will try and post a pic later on my blog if anyone is interested.


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## sewtlm (Mar 22, 2006)

When the pattern says it's for a 32in bust that is what it means all ease and seam allowances are already on the pattern for US companies. Very different for Stihl/Neau Mode and Burda patterns you need to use metric for best fit and some don't have seam allowances.

Every pattern company uses a different basic toile so you must know your measurements to puchase the correct pattern.

Really on the big 4 patterns the directions are too simple. Get a good basic book because most all garments go together in the same simple way.

If you want bad or no directions try some of the smaller private pattern companies (yikes) and the sizing is even worse along with if the designer is 6'4" tall so is the pattern.

Pattern sizing hasn't changed in the last 20 years or so but clothing sizes have. Why do you really think that after 50 plus years you are still wearing a size 10? It's called vanity sizing by the clothing industry. I have the measurements of a 1960 size 14 as 34-24-34. This was my moms and she has worn a size 16 for 20 yrs and trust me her measurements are not 36-26-36 today and she still fits in a 16.


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## gleanerl (Apr 11, 2003)

pin the pattern together and literally try it on.
adjust the darts, seams, etc.
then cut it out.
it'll fit fine.
but be picky when you try it on and add seam allowance.
let us know how it turns out...!


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## westbrook (May 10, 2002)

With multi sized patterns this will not be so bad...

take your high bust measurement... this is the measurement that goes around your back, under your arms and above your bustline. this will give you the correct measurement for your neck, shoulders and armholes. If your bustline is an A or B cup you will be fine.. if it is a C cup then measure around your bust line as you always have and use that measurement.

copy the pattern onto butcher paper, examining room paper, wax paper or ???
pin together and try it on. Make sure all of the darts are pinned in.

make any adjustments now. If it is grossly too small, then copy the next size up. If it is too large, then copy the next side down. If it is just a smidge over or under, you can adjust by slashing the pattern and adding or removing just a wee bit... remember 1/4 inch is a half inch since there are two sides.

I prefer to use a body double... dress form.. I love my Duct tape Double!!!!
With it I can fit everything to it cause it is me!

http://www.leanna.com/DuctTapeDouble/

instructions; http://www.leanna.com/DuctTapeDouble/textA.html

though read all of the pages on the first link.

Spend the day making the DTD and most of your problems will be solved.


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## Country Lady (Oct 2, 2003)

Everyone has given me some very good suggestions. I'll have to read up on the duct tape form. I have a dress form I bought back when I was size 10, but I don't think it'll adjust to my present size. Maybe I need to pull it out of the attic and see. I look forward to getting back into sewing. It's something I used to love doing.


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## Karen (Apr 17, 2002)

After not buying patterns for so long, boy did I get sticker shock!! I couldn't believe $7; $10; $14 for a pattern. I can't imagine what Vogue patterns must be! Goodness, I'm way back when $4-5 was considered too much to spend (even for a Vogue)...LOL!


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## westbrook (May 10, 2002)

plumping up a dress form...

http://216.25.11.234/familyphotos/sewing/dressform/index.html

though it isn't your exact double.. it still works.


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## Country Lady (Oct 2, 2003)

westbrook said:


> plumping up a dress form...
> 
> http://216.25.11.234/familyphotos/sewing/dressform/index.html
> 
> though it isn't your exact double.. it still works.


This is a wonderful idea!! Up in the attic I go tomorrow. This is just what I need and it won't cost much of anything. Thank you!


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## Country Lady (Oct 2, 2003)

Karen said:


> After not buying patterns for so long, boy did I get sticker shock!! I couldn't believe $7; $10; $14 for a pattern. I can't imagine what Vogue patterns must be! Goodness, I'm way back when $4-5 was considered too much to spend (even for a Vogue)...LOL!


A good time to buy patterns is when Hancock's has them on sale. They rotate by the brand name, though I don't think they ever put Kwik Sew on sale.


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## CJ (May 10, 2002)

Westbrook has it correctly. The big "4" pattern companies base tops off of your high bust measurement, providing you're and A or B cup.

I find that I wear 2 sizes SMALLER than ready to wear clothes, if I make a pattern from one of the big "4".

Another option is pattern making software. Wild Ginger's Pattern Maker is highly popular, allows you to enter a gazillion body measurements so you get an exact fit, then you print off the pattern and tape it together.

The Wandering Quilter's Life in a Box!


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## moosemaniac (Mar 7, 2003)

Once I have a good pattern that fits, I iron it onto heavy duty fusible interfacing. It'll last forever that way!

Ruth


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## westbrook (May 10, 2002)

larger then B use standard bust size when buying a pattern.

However, when I use my standard bust size it is always so large in the neck and arm holes. I am greatful for the multi-sized patterns so I can combine them.

This way I can use the 34 for high bust and neck and the 36 for the actual bust.

this is one reason I prefer to do flat pattern and draping but do use commercial patterns from time to time.


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## MTTMATSUA (May 23, 2007)

Hey all;

I went in to the local Joannes this morning and all McCalls patterns were $1.99. I def stocked up on some dress and skirt ones...in case I decide to 'try' a different pattern than I have used all these years!

They even had a bunch of cotton fabric for $2.00. More stocking up....

MY poor DH is right...I will be that wacky lady that when I pass away, they'll find a ton of fabric and 100 years of National Geographics!!

 Bonnie


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