# Building a small log cabin



## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

There is another thread about building with logs. Thought I would share another technique. The technique is called butt and pass and does not need any notching. I built this about 10 years ago. It is 14x14.

The cabin is built on pier blocks. Here you can see them being laid.





























Peel all the logs with a draw knife or bark spud.










The logs are held together with 1/2" rebar. I drilled a 1/2" hole thru both logs and hammered in the rebar.










Here you can see why it is called butt and pass. One log butts into the next which passes by.










The walls go up. No windows or doors yet. Lots of rebar to hold it together. The board in the corner is to help me keep it straight.



















Cutting in the door. You need to know where the door or window will be so that you don't put rebar where you will be cutting it out. Just cut out with your chainsaw.


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I hope there is more.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

Setting the ridge pole. This was a big milestone.











Putting on the roof.



















Done!


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## Vickie44 (Jul 27, 2010)

Really nice , thanks for showing


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I love it. Put a few windows in it and people can live there nicely.

You do good work.


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

What was the green of the floor in the last photo on the first set of photos?


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

The floor is put in last. You bolt on 2x8s around the perimeter walls being careful they are level. Then you just use joist hangers and 2x8s to frame the floor. Then plywood on top. The green was just some exterior paint I had laying around that I put on to protect it.


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## elkhound (May 30, 2006)

real nice...i built a butt and pass squared oak barn about 20 years ago.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

The butt and pass technique has some advantages.

1. Only takes 5 basic tools. Chainsaw, drawknife to peel bark, big 1/2" drill with 18" auger bit, sledge hammer to drive in the rebar.

2. In normal log construction, you have to take into account the logs will shrink. In my bigger log house which is not butt and pass, the walls shrink down 4" in height. In butt and pass, with all the rebar holding it together, the walls do not shrink and it is very strong.

3. No notching or scribing.


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## elkhound (May 30, 2006)

hope you dont mind me adding this to your thread.heres the barn.oak logs..poplar rafters over 17ft long on 12/12 pitch with pine boarded ends on second floor.


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

elkhound - very nice, too. 

Substantial looking, both buildings.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

All the logs used to build this cabin came from my land. They were already down in the woods. They were smaller than I would have liked.

The cost was under $1,000 which included rebar, ply to sheet the roof and floor, wood for floor joists, door and roof rafters, metal for roof and concrete for pier blocks.


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## ldc (Oct 11, 2006)

Very beautiful, logbuilder!!!!


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## cnichols (Jan 5, 2010)

Very impressive! 

I do have a question or two though (or more! lol). 

The re-bar ... how long is each piece? Just long enough to hold the two logs together? And how far apart do you space those pieces? i.e. 2' ... 3' ... 4' ... 1.5' ... ???

Do you drill all the way through both logs or only through the top log and partway through the bottom one?

Thanks for sharing this method! It looks like it would be something easier for us to handle.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

cnichols said:


> The re-bar ... how long is each piece? Just long enough to hold the two logs together? And how far apart do you space those pieces? i.e. 2' ... 3' ... 4' ... 1.5' ... ???
> 
> Do you drill all the way through both logs or only through the top log and partway through the bottom one?
> 
> Thanks for sharing this method! It looks like it would be something easier for us to handle.


When I bought the rebar, they cut it for me. I had them cut 12" and 18" pieces so I could pick what worked best for each situation.

I did drill completely thru the logs with an 18" auger bit. Turns out if you drill a 1/2" hole, the rebar won't just go right in. It is slightly flattened. This works out perfect but you do have to pound them in with a sledge. Makes it very tight. I spaced them every 2-3 feet. Just keep in mind where you will be cutting doors or windows and keep the rebar out of your cut path.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

Thought I would add that I did build a larger log house too.

Here is what it looked like in Dec of 2005.










In late 2006










In 2007









And here is what it looks like now.










The view from the front porch.


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## diamondtim (Jun 10, 2005)

That's pretty, logbuilder!


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## cnichols (Jan 5, 2010)

Holy Macarroni! That is a very nice house!


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

Oh WOW logbuilder. I love that house. Is that where you live? how wonderful. I sure admire all the builders.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

Those are very cool. What a talent/skill to have!


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

AngieM2 said:


> Oh WOW logbuilder. I love that house. Is that where you live? how wonderful. I sure admire all the builders.



Yes, it is where I live. It was always my dream to have a retirement place like this and have been working on it for the last 12 years. Seeing this picture by Thomas Kinkade helped me visualize the dream.


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I think that is my favorite Thomas Kinkade painting.

Wonderful. I think you are successful in your quest for that dream.


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## Hears The Water (Aug 2, 2002)

This is just wonderful to see! It gives me hope.
God bless you and yours
Deb


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## Common Tator (Feb 19, 2008)

I LOVE that cabin! Thanks for sharing!


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## ladybug (Aug 18, 2002)

Wow! I have got to try building one of these, we have loads of pine from clearing ground for our garden and greenhouse


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## Common Tator (Feb 19, 2008)

It looks like the logs were notched on the big cabin. Not pass & butt. Am I right?


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

Common Tator said:


> It looks like the logs were notched on the big cabin. Not pass & butt. Am I right?


You are correct. Interestingly, among the log house community, the type of construction can be a topic that really gets people passionate. I'd prefer we not get into that type of discussion in this thread. However, any questions you might have about either butt and pass or swedish cope, fire away.


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## Common Tator (Feb 19, 2008)

It's beautiful! I'm not passionate about either method. But for the larger cabin, I prefer the look of the Swedish Cope.


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## KMA1 (Dec 9, 2006)

Logbuilder,

Enjoyed seeing both your house and the shed/barn. Very beautiful view you have as well. Do you have a series of photos you would share on the construction of your house. Always interested in seeing how it is done going up. I have an Appalachian style log house. 

Thanks.

kma1


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## texican (Oct 4, 2003)

Did you have one of those powered auger type drills, or a hand auger? Would make a difference, (big time) powered vs. hand powered... Do you think you came out ahead, doing the drilling/rebar vs. dovetail joints?

I could see how it'd be a lot faster, if you have power on site, butt the log, drill with a sharp bit, and pound the rebar.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

texican said:


> Did you have one of those powered auger type drills, or a hand auger? Would make a difference, (big time) powered vs. hand powered... Do you think you came out ahead, doing the drilling/rebar vs. dovetail joints?
> 
> I could see how it'd be a lot faster, if you have power on site, butt the log, drill with a sharp bit, and pound the rebar.


I have a Milwaukee Hole Hawg. It has the power you need to handle the 18" auger. Driving in the rebar is the time consuming thing and it takes a lot of energy. I have heard there is some sort of demolition hammer that can be used but I haven't seen it in action.

Here is a pic of a demo hammer.


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## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

A rotary demo hammer would be the trick. You can drill the holes, flip the selector switch and hammer in the rebar. All it takes for the rebar is a electrical ground rod driver bit to fit the hammer.


[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kfjhRYAUHg]driving rebar with rotary hammer - YouTube[/ame]


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

TnAndy said:


> A rotary demo hammer would be the trick. You can drill the holes, flip the selector switch and hammer in the rebar. All it takes for the rebar is a electrical ground rod driver bit to fit the hammer.
> 
> 
> driving rebar with rotary hammer - YouTube


I watched the video. Sure makes me wish I had one of those when I built the cabin. I doubt I will ever build another one but if I do, I'll sure look for an affordable one.


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## silverseeds (Apr 28, 2012)

Very nice... Ive got a very green thumb, but I cant really build much. So im always a bit envious of those with such skills! 

I might try my hand at a log shed here soon though...


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## partndn (Jun 18, 2009)

I just slobbered all over my desk. 

:buds: What a fantastic job both of you guys!

I want one....


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## cast iron (Oct 4, 2004)

Now that is outstanding work! What I especially like is the aggressive overhang over the doors and at the eaves. There are few things more frustrating than buildings with little or no overhang on the roofs, especially here in the Pacific North Wet. It just makes for a muddy mess right in front of the door.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

Thought I would bring this back up. Very instructive on building a small cabin.

logbuilder, what is roughly the diameter of those logs on the cabin that you used, please?


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

Those logs were all pulled from the woods. None were live standing and most were recently downed. They probably averaged 6 or 7 inches. Pretty small by most standards. That made it easy to handle the logs but more chinking involved.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

Thanks logbuilder

Even at 6 inches dia., I thought would make an ideal temp. place, until one had their home built. 

Later, it could be for whatever is needed, from housing tools/equipment/toys to critters or even a guest house.

Thanks for the great pictures and helpful info..


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

Early on, it was the only secure place I had on my property so lots of things got stored in there. It is now my wood shop.


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

Nice job for sure...more photos..


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## MichiganMike (Mar 27, 2015)

Logbuilder, Do you think that Black locust logs could be used for a butt and paste project? All the traditional log cabin information that I gathered advised against hard wood construction.Do to expandtion/contraction of the wood. where as a softer wood will give and take. I also looked into cordwood construction so I may have the two outcomes confused. I have a lot of very straight BL. it seems a shame to cut just post out of...MTP












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## razorcat (Jul 23, 2015)

Logbuilder, can you come help us make ours? DH wants to do a b&p as well. How did you get the upper logs in place? Also would you be able to use telephone poles or railroad ties in place of cut logs? And if not, what were the diameters of your logs?


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