# oil pan epoxy



## retire2$ (Feb 12, 2003)

The oil pan on my truck is starting to rust through (pinhole leaks). Can anyone recommend an epoxy or other material to cover the rust holes or the entire pan. I have used the liquid steel that Harbor Freight sells. Lasted for about 3 weeks. Thanks in advance for any and all replies.


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

Can you buy a used oil pan on ebay, and just replace it? If it is that old, I bet a new gasket is due, and would save you some oil too.


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## copperkid3 (Mar 18, 2005)

Last fall, my gas tank on a 97 Ford F-150 was getting holes under the straps where 
the salt collects and rusts. Wasn't about to try getting a used one from the scrap 
yard or pay the high price for a new one. After scraping the area well and then wire
brushing it.....I ended up using a combination of fiberglass drywall tape and JB Weld 
Industrial Tube size and after mixing it well; spread it across the area most affected. 
Continued building thin layers and overlapping and even then was having some gas 
"weeping" come through. At this point, I ended up jamming some JB WaterWeld into 
those holes and then covered with the regular JB Weld. It's still holding strong.

Might work on an old oil pan as well and it's cheaper than a replacement.


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## Bluecometk (Jun 20, 2009)

To repair the pan you will need to drain the oil and then wash out the pan with a degreaser or carb cleaner spray. Clean the outer surface down to clean metal and use the best material known to man, MARINE TEX this stuff has been sold for many years and is in my opinion the best repair/patch material ever made. You can fix manifolds, fuel tanks, oil pans plastic, wood anything and everything. I have used it on all of the above and have never had a leak again. Some of the repairs are over twenty years old.

Just my opinions

Bluecometk


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> MARINE TEX


The best epoxy made


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

I used Marine Tex on the saddle tanks of a diesel tractor more than 8 years ago and it is still holding. Great product. Just this week I used MT to fix a cracked fitting on a sprayer. The fitting that was cracked is under ~45 lbs of pressure when in use.


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## seagullplayer (Nov 6, 2008)

I'm sure the jest of it is he wants to fix it in place, if he had to take it off he would put a used one back on.

I would try the two part puddy they sell for gas tanks. I do agree to drain the oil and clean the area very well first.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

You dont want to hear it, but best way is to remove the pan and put the epoxy on the inside of the pan after very thorough cleaning. Course if you are going to remove the pan, just as well replace it.


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## OntarioMan (Feb 11, 2007)

Of the oil pans I've seen with "pinhole leaks" - they were not "starting" to rust through, they were basically done. This is very common on Rangers. Just tightening the drain plug is enough to create more small tears in the pan. Some pans are extremely thin.

Depending on what truck you have - the time it takes to clean, prep and coat the entire pan with epoxy... you may be further ahead just replacing the pan, especially if this is a vehicle you plan on keeping.


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## Beeman (Dec 29, 2002)

Unless you're just looking to trade or sell this truck and stick somebody I wouldn't waste the time or epoxy. If it's rusted through it's time to replace the pan.

What truck and what engine?


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## retire2$ (Feb 12, 2003)

Thank you for all your replies thus far. 

To answer some of your questions and comments. The truck is a 94 F-150 with a little over 200,000 miles. No intention of getting rid of the truck at the moment. My grandson is planning on getting the truck in 4 years. I have to many irons in the fire at the moment, including recent knee surgery, and need a quick fix for transportation. Replacing the pan will require dropping the drive shaft, removing transmission and motor mounting bolts, removing hood, and lifting engine enough to drop the pan and clear the crossmember. With all the different types of expoxy available I am trying to get as much information as possible so I can make an informative decision on which product to use. I can read all the sales pitches for the products from the manufacture (biased as they may be) but really appreciate the HT members opinion. Thank you for the pro's and con's for the different products. I know parts need to be replaced (including my knee) but I would like to put it off for as long as possible.


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## Roadking (Oct 8, 2009)

My $0.02, JB Liqui-Weld. BUT it will only work well if the pan is as absolutely clean as you can make it. You actually need to press it into the holes, not just smear it on, BUT BE WARNED, IF THE STUFF THAT PLUGS THE HOLE BREAKS FREE, IT WILL FOLLOW THE SAME PATH AS THE OIL (i.e. into the moving parts of the engine).
Gotta agree, best way would be replace, but as a quick patch, might be able to muddle along for a while.
Matt


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

I wish you lived closer. My buddy is an awesome mechanic, and works much cheaper than he should. 

That oil pan replacement would be inexpensive if you had him do it.


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## Ed Norman (Jun 8, 2002)

I sealed up a built in gas tank on a 1950s outboard motor with JB Weld. Not the best epoxy, but it worked. I've used Marine-Tex and some other high end epoxies and they are great.

But, I would consider replacing it. Around here, rocks roll off the mountain and onto the highway most nights and the tourists never seem to watch out for them. About 6 times since spring I have seen the short skid mark, the shattered rock, then the oil trail starts. The car will make it about a half mile and be parked barely off the road where the engine seized. Losing your oil is never a good thing. 

If your grandson wants the truck in 4 years, he should be glad to give you a hand getting the pan off and back on. I used to love working with my grandpa.


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## tamsam (May 12, 2006)

Depends on how far from home you drive this truck as to what I would to to fix it. If it is just run to a close store or friends house then patching might be ok. If you drive it any distance from home replace it. The cost of a new pan most likely will be less than a wrecker bill to get you fifty miles back home. Good luck fixing it. Sam


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

At best, you're trying to stick an epoxy on thin oily metal. Of course it's not going to work well. It can't adhere to the base metal (it's oily), and if it does, it's nothing but thin rust, which flexes terribly.

If you're determined to make an epoxy or such coating stick, you're going to have to remove the oil pan and thoroughly clean it. Then you'll solidly epoxy coat it. It will likely still fail due to fracturing. 

Having done all that, it would be a lot easier to just replace the pan.


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## Blu3duk (Jun 2, 2002)

After cleaning with regular parts cleaners you might try spraying with electronic part cleaner which drys without any oily film...... then the epoxies have at least a chance to cure a little before the oils weeps through trying to keep it from its job.

if you took it off, there is always drilling it out and putting a patch in its place of a chunk of metal, a gasket and bolts..... yeah its a "jury rigged" job that may not be what everyone would do..... and could cost more in time than a new or used part [which may or may not hold any longer than a patch btw] but choices are made daily on less important matters and more important matters too! 

Marine Tex sounds like a product that might work if the outside is cleaned up decent for a "temporary' fix til you have more time and material to "do it right" as others might want to see it done.

its always fun crawling under a rig, more fun when your knee is bummed up.

William
Idaho


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