# Nineteen Victorian Dresses



## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

Hi all!

This is my first time posting here in the Sewing forum, I'm usually over in Fiber Arts. As well as a spinner and knitter, I am a seamstress. In fact, that is my day job. I sew all day. Best job ever! I've been sewing Historical Costumes for ten years, and just finished a big project, which I blogged about. I was told I should post it here so you could all see! 

http://costumegirl.wordpress.com/2013/07/20/six-flags-ignite-or-how-i-sewed-for-12-hours-a-day-for-two-months-and-survived/

Thanks for reading, and I look forward to getting to know you!


----------



## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

Wow, and outstanding.

That's a lot of dresses.

Did you start with Past Patterns, or Folklore patterns to get the start, then adapt from there?


----------



## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

I mostly used patterns from Truly Victorian. I wouldn't say they are very beginner patterns, but they are very authentic!

I've honestly never been very impressed with Folkwear's selection of historical patterns. Not enough of any one era to make a full outfit. But their ethnic stuff is awesome!


----------



## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

love them all! Other than having such a short time to do them, that would be an awesome project to do. I love ruffles, lace and bows, but since my "baby girl" is almost 30, I don't get a chance to do that much anymore.


----------



## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I've never heard of Truly Victorian - I'll have to google and check them out.

I agree that Folkwear is more folk wear as they are named.

But check out Past Patterns. They may be of interest to you.


----------



## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

Welcome to the forum! I am a historical seamstress as well. I love Truly Victorian patterns and Heather is an angel. I use them when I need to make a later Victorian something. All my Civil War stuff though, I pretty much have developed my own patterns.

Past Patterns are really good and give historic details. I have several of their corset patterns as well as the chemise for mid 19th century pattern. One of these days I want to make the version with the whitework on it.

For men's stuff, esp. uniforms, I use Homespun from James County Mercantile. The Confederate pants esp. have been helpful making uniforms for DH. I won't sew for men for pay cause I hate sewing men's stuff but, I put my big girl panties on and do it for DH LOL.


----------



## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

Heehee. I only currently do Viking stuff for men right now, though I have made a Scandinavian vest for DH, and am planning an 1810's suit for him as well. (He actually thinks historical clothing is awesome! Yay!) In November, there is going to be a "Netherfield Ball" to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the publication of Pride and Prejudice, so we are going in style! There are unfortunately not very many men's patterns for the 1810's, though.  1770-1806? Yep! 1830 on? Yep! 1810-1820? Not so much. Only a few War of 1812 officer's coat patterns.

I have never used any patterns from Past Patterns before, but right now I am working on a 1830's dress for myself, complete with all of the undergarments. I am going to use the Past Patterns 1830's Lowell Mill Girl dress pattern for the dress, and I have the most wonderful 1830's calico to make it!  I just last night finished the corset, altered from a 1820's corset pattern from The Mantua Maker. I do like how all of Past Patterns' designs look, though, so if I'm happy with how this dress goes together, I may be a convert! 

RebelDigger, have you been participating in the Historical Sew Fortnightly? It's been a great event this year!


----------



## DW (May 10, 2002)

They all are great! And I am going to check out those pattern sites. My current project is w/a small museum and trying to clean, hang display the real thing...some are getting washed and I'm still studying others.


----------



## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

If an original garment is too delicate to wash, you can put a window screen over it and carefully vacuum with the brush attachment on a hose. I did that back in my museum days.


----------



## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

"Netherfield Ball" Oh- I SOOOO want to go! Pride and Prejudice t is one of my favorite stories ( I like the 2005 movie the best, though I think some of the characters were terribly miscast based on the book). Though I don't know how accurate the movies are in the attire. 

I almost made a fancy ball gown, but my husband decided it was just a bit to "weird" to take on.

I was advertizing to do sewing (back when the kids were little), and a young man called to see if I could make formal attire. We got to chatting, and he wanted a very fancy ball gown, complete with as many accessories as possible. I was OK with that part - but where it got weird is he didn't want to have much say in what it looked like, or colors, or style. He wanted it to be a major surprise, and he said I should just keep asking for money if I needed more to keep making the gown more elaborate. The guy got down right giddy as we were talking about it. He told me that he had already spent over $300 to have one made, and the seamstress never delivered, but it was his dream to have a custom made ball gown, with bonnet, gloves shoes - all the under garments. He said it could take as long as needed, and the longer the better. It was like he didn't really want the gown - it was the anticipation of getting it that turned him on. It also sounded like it was something he could brag about to his friends.

My husband was concerned that it could become way more of a long term project than I had the setup to deal with. I was kind of bummed to have to turn it down, but DH was right, I didn't have the setup to have a long term project going.


----------



## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

I once had a man call me and ask if I could make him a fancy wedding dress... Not for a wedding, just for him to wear to parties. It was really weird and awkward and I was only about 16 at the time and not used to making clothing for others, so I turned him down... Wonder if it was the same man? 

If you have anyone in the Twin Cities you could stay with, you should come up for the Netherfield Ball! The styles in the 2005 Pride and Prejudice are pretty darn authentic, and quite lovely!


----------



## bryncalyn (Jan 7, 2013)

Wow! Looks good!


----------



## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Lovely!


----------



## Homesteader (Jul 13, 2002)

Just lovely - good job!


----------



## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

That is funny - I was living in the Twin Cities area when that happened, but it was 20-25 years ago.

I'm in the Twin Cities about once a month to visit relatives,was just there last weekend. I seem to come home with more sewing machines each time I go . . .

I googled and found the itinerary and dates - and unfortunately we are leaving for GA two weeks after it will be held, and there is no way I can swing both. It sounds so fun - but I don't think my DH would share the enthusiasm LOL!!

Though I did choke when I read "We hope you find that we exemplify the oft-cited adage &#8220;Minnesota Nice&#8221;"

I grew up and lived in the Twin Cities for near 40 years, then lived in WI for 5 and now it SD for 10, and everywhere I lived, "Minnesota Nice" was NOT a complement. It referred to the tendency of people to be nice and tell you how much the liked you to your face, when they told everyone else how much they couldn't stand being around you. But them, being the Jane Austen Society, maybe "Minnesota Nice" is appropriate LOL!!


----------



## preparing (Aug 4, 2011)

Who taught you all to sew?


----------



## MJsLady (Aug 16, 2006)

Very nice!


----------



## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

I'm mostly self taught. My grandma helped me read the pattern and cut the pieces for my sundress when I was 12-13-ish, and I started quilting lessons about 9. When I was 13, I entered a drawstring skirt in the county fair. My mom suggested I make a Civil War Dress for the fair the next year, and well, the rest is history! (And no, my mom doesn't sew.) Luckily, the Simplicity Civil War patterns have VERY detailed instructions and short tutorials on sewing methods. 

Macybaby, I'm actually not planning on the Jane Austen Society Netherfield Ball in September, I'm planning for the Netherfield Ball hosted by the Historic Recreation Society here in the Twin Cities in November! It would appear to cost a great deal less, and gives me more time to prepare! Though now that I know there is a Jane Austen Society Conference here in the Twin Cities... I want to go, but it is expensive. :sob: So expensive. :sob:


----------



## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

My grandma taught me. I made my first item, an apron, on her treadle machine when I was 7.

I don't participate in sew alongs, I am just too busy sewing LOL. I think I have made up the dress you referenced from Past Patterns. Is it the one with the leg o mutton sleeves? I loved that gown, here it is, taken in the upstairs hallway of the Victorian house we used to live in. Sorry for the quality of the photos, they are 12 years old and taken with one of the first digital cameras on the market. If this is the one let me caution you that it runs small and a fitting toile is a neccessity. Also, on the Martha McCain patterns, if authentic period sewing techniques are important to you (they are to me as I am a reenactress) don't follow their instructions -- Martha wrote them correctly and Simplicity changed them.


----------



## hmsteader71 (Mar 16, 2006)

Wow! You are so very talented. My jaw just about hit the floor looking at those dresses. They are beautiful!


----------



## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

Wow, RebelDigger, that's a gorgeous dress! The dress I'm making does have leg o' mutton sleeves, but I think it's the other 1830's pattern they have. I do always make a toile or mock-up of new patterns, especially if I'm going to have to fit it over a corset. (I don't like just lacing my corset tighter to make things fit!)

I've learned a lot more about historic sewing techniques since that first Martha McCain Civil War dress, but I was 14, it was a good starting point, and not as bad as it could have been. I've seen much worse "historical" patterns! (Like one bustle dress pattern that as a actual construction step had you carving a "bustle" out of styrofoam... I knew then that the pattern was bad.)


----------



## newfieannie (Dec 24, 2006)

this is amazing and an interest of mine. I left my Victorian dresses, for my parties, in my house and lost them to mold and whatnot. I didn't make those but I need more and i'm going to try them myself. ~Georgia.


----------



## frogmammy (Dec 8, 2004)

I was wardrobe mistress for a college for almost a couple years...different type sewing but I had a LOT of fun! Got to costume Fiddler, Oh Dad Poor Dad, Barber of Seville, and Phantom and one other that I forget the name of! I like making "different" and beautiful clothing.

Oddly enough, I don't like sewing, I just like creating something!

Have been in SINCERE hopes that one of my grand-daughters would want me to make their wedding dress, alas, I fear it is not to be 

Mon


----------



## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

SvenskaFlicka said:


> Wow, RebelDigger, that's a gorgeous dress! The dress I'm making does have leg o' mutton sleeves, but I think it's the other 1830's pattern they have. I do always make a toile or mock-up of new patterns, especially if I'm going to have to fit it over a corset. (I don't like just lacing my corset tighter to make things fit!)
> 
> I've learned a lot more about historic sewing techniques since that first Martha McCain Civil War dress, but I was 14, it was a good starting point, and not as bad as it could have been. I've seen much worse "historical" patterns! (Like one bustle dress pattern that as a actual construction step had you carving a "bustle" out of styrofoam... I knew then that the pattern was bad.)


Yeah, all the Past Patterns patterns runs small so a toile is essential. I am with ya on the corset thing. I made mine so that my before corset waist measurement and my corset on measurements are the same, hate constriction.

Carving a bustle? :hysterical: that is too funny. I make bustles so, I know that making one the correct way would be way easier than carving one. Wow just wow! What did you do?

To anyone that wants to make their own Victorian clothing, I highly recommend Truly Victorian. The patterns are well done and the instructions are clear and accurate to the period. Also, if you run into trouble, Heather has a forum on the website where you can get help and questions answered specific to the pattern number. Heather also answers her emails in a timely fashion. These are a good way to "get one's feet wet" so to speak. Also, the Dressmaker's Guide by Elizabeth Stewart Clark (she has a website) is a good resource.


----------



## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

The "carving a bustle" pattern was the one and only pattern NOT from Truly Victorian that I made a dress from for Six Flags. So for that, I just put netting ruffles in the back like all the others. 

I make soooo many Truly Victorian bustles for people, though... and everyone wants that one with the hoops in the bottom rather than the improved pattern without. I am to the point where, with the help of my serger, I can whip one of those out in an afternoon! 

And yes, Truly Victorian is AMAZING. I also order all of my bustle wire through them, and Heather is so quick to answer e-mails if I have questions. (I seem to always order bustle wire when they've had a run on the kits and are sold out, lol!)


----------



## Molly Mckee (Jul 8, 2006)

The dresses are just beautiful!!! Both of you do wonderful work. I looked at what some of the reenactment dresses sell for on Ebay and I can't help wonder how they can sell them so cheaply? Are some of the ebay dresses made in China out of really cheap fabric or something? I certainly hope they don't represent the market!


----------



## Ann-NWIowa (Sep 28, 2002)

Amazing, absolutely amazing. 

I've just recently started sewing clothing again after many many years. I was at one time quite a good seamtress and have hopes of regaining some of my skills.


----------



## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

The dresses that you guys made here are gorgeous. I have often wanted to get into costuming, but have never had a place to set up. House we currently lease is way too small. I did work with my sister at the local park theater one year in my home town when I was a teenager. Loved the fun in making all the costumes then and still dream of being able to do it again. Thanks for all the tips on where to get the patterns and know how on the Victorian outfits. They are fun to look at. 

Elaine


----------



## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

SvenskaFlicka said:


> The "carving a bustle" pattern was the one and only pattern NOT from Truly Victorian that I made a dress from for Six Flags. So for that, I just put netting ruffles in the back like all the others.
> 
> I make soooo many Truly Victorian bustles for people, though... and everyone wants that one with the hoops in the bottom rather than the improved pattern without. I am to the point where, with the help of my serger, I can whip one of those out in an afternoon!
> 
> And yes, Truly Victorian is AMAZING. I also order all of my bustle wire through them, and Heather is so quick to answer e-mails if I have questions. (I seem to always order bustle wire when they've had a run on the kits and are sold out, lol!)


I use Heather's patterns for the ones I make (with her permission). I get my spring steel buckram covered in 12 yards rolls for $19.00 at corsetmaking.com. I also make cage crinolines so usually have left overs from them to do the bustles. 



Molly Mckee said:


> The dresses are just beautiful!!! Both of you do wonderful work. I looked at what some of the reenactment dresses sell for on Ebay and I can't help wonder how they can sell them so cheaply? Are some of the ebay dresses made in China out of really cheap fabric or something? I certainly hope they don't represent the market!


The majority of the so called "Civil War" dresses on ebay are what is called in the hobby "farby". That is, completely inaccurate and cheaply made, that is how they do it so cheap. I charge $350.00 for labor for a simple, cotton day dress similiar to the earlier 1830s one in my photo above but, for that it is completely period correct down to the last hand stitch. For a real reproduction Civil War dress, 85% of it is hand stitching. It takes about 25 hours to make one if it is done right. Just goes to show the old saying is right, "you get what you pay for". There are many talented, accurate seamstresses sewing beautiful, period correct dresses, ebay is not the norm.


----------



## Molly Mckee (Jul 8, 2006)

Good to know, I'm glad you are getting paid a more reasonable amount of money for all that work! Those ebay prices seemed to have something wrong.


----------



## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

I also get paid a lot more than what is on eBay... Those eBay dresses make me shudder. Even if I do something 100% machine sewn, I charge more than for those dresses.  It's my full-time job, and most people seem to understand that.


----------



## Molly Mckee (Jul 8, 2006)

I just wondered what kind of prices that kind of dress brought and checked Ebay--even with cheap material and all machine sewing, they seemed way too cheap!


----------



## Wildfire_Jewel (Nov 5, 2006)

I am going to have to post the photos of my daughter's Renn gown she made at 13 1/2. I also do costuming but of a different type - I am currently making a female Loki costume and when I get back from camping will be making up an Amora (sexy sorcerous - same story line as the Loki one) as well. There are no patterns - I have to create them myself using many different patterns as a base and working with the person's measurements. It takes me hours of figuring before I dare cut into the real fabric....."fake" leather (vinyl) doesn't take well to having the stitching pulled out if a mistake is made! I couldn't begin to charge people what the real costs are to make up one of these!


----------



## RebelDigger (Aug 5, 2010)

Wildfire_Jewel said:


> I am going to have to post the photos of my daughter's Renn gown she made at 13 1/2. I also do costuming but of a different type - I am currently making a female Loki costume and when I get back from camping will be making up an Amora (sexy sorcerous - same story line as the Loki one) as well. There are no patterns - I have to create them myself using many different patterns as a base and working with the person's measurements. It takes me hours of figuring before I dare cut into the real fabric....."fake" leather (vinyl) doesn't take well to having the stitching pulled out if a mistake is made! I couldn't begin to charge people what the real costs are to make up one of these!


Yeah, costuming is a labor of love isn't it? If you figure what I charge for a dress and divide by the number of hours it takes to make it, I am getting paid $14 an hour which used to be good but not so much with the rate of inflation today on groceries. I figure some pay is better than none though.


----------



## housewife (Mar 16, 2006)

I love the look of the victorian gowns. Did a historical like gown for my daughter years ago. The pattern called for a zipper and no hand sewing so it wasn't real. It was fun argueing with all that velviteen but DD was thrilled. Usually make anime costumes when I'm making costumes. Finding the right lines in a pattern is a pain but breaking all the sewing rules I remember from home ec is fun!! 

The dresses are beyond amazing!! Its so much fun veiwing your pics...


----------



## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

Yeah, Rebeldigger, I recently had to raise prices on all the costumes in my Etsy shop... Raised them so I'd be making a bit above $14. I actually make more on the underpinnings, (chemises, drawers, petticoats) but fewer people seem to want to buy those. I guess a lot of women look at a chemise and think "I could make that." but look at a silk dress and say "No way!"


----------

