# I need to move a 100 gallons of water a day can this be Solar?



## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

I need to move about 100 gallons of water a day. I have a pond. The lift after the pond if about 50'. I'd like to use this water for irrigation and livestock watering. Mostly I'd only need about 50 gallons. I will only need it in the summer months. It could take all day I really don't care. Also if it's over cast or foggy I don't really need the water.

Can I do this for less than 300 bucks?


----------



## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

stanb999 said:


> ...Can I do this for less than 300 bucks?


Not using anything new. Dought you could even find used equipment for that price. Is there any flow into the pond that a ram pump could be used with?


----------



## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

wy_white_wolf said:


> Not using anything new. Dought you could even find used equipment for that price. Is there any flow into the pond that a ram pump could be used with?


No, It's spring fed but the spring is like 4 ft above the level of the pond. I kinda think it will cost in excess of 500 or so from looking. 

I guess the real question is their a really slow pump that can work with really small energy requirements. But be like the little engine that could and keep it full. 

I don't need pressure or fast flow. What I really would just be filling two barrels with water about 600 ft away and up 50 ft or so in elevation. I don't see the 600Ft as being the issue it's the 50Ft in elevation. Heck When I look at the pumps available they all say like 40 PSI and 3 gallons a min. I need about 20 psi @ 8 gallons an hour/.13 gallons a min. 

This should be do able is I can find the right pump.


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

Harbor Freight strikes again.. 

http://12vman.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?4.0


----------



## SolarGary (Sep 8, 2005)

Hi,
Here are some 12VDC pumps that might work?
http://www.absak.com/pdf/lvmpumpspec.pdf

http://www.absak.com/catalog/default.php/cPath/24_74

The pump curve indicates that even the smallest one will manage 25 psi at low flow. Smallest draws 2.5 amps, so a 30 watt panel might drive it?

Another possibility would be the smallest version of the 12 volt diaphragm style pumps that are used in RV's and sprayers. Shurflo is one brand:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_357081_357081

You might also look at this place:
http://www.pumpbiz.com/index.cfm
They have more types of pumps than I ever thought existed.

Gary


----------



## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

SolarGary,

By the first link the only one that will handle 50' of lift also takes 18 amps to do it. That's 216 watts. A little out of the price range. It would probably be cheaper to spend the $600 on a shurflow 9300 series and only need a 60 to 80 watt panel.

I couldn't find where any of the other pumps could handle 50' of lift.

WWW


----------



## WisJim (Jan 14, 2004)

I have a friend who uses a Dankoff (now Conergy) SlowPump to pump water from a creek to a tank to water his garden, using a single solar panel. The pumps now cost about $500, and a panel would be $400 or so, plus mounting, wiring, etc. But it works when the sun shines, no battery required.


----------



## artificer (Feb 26, 2007)

How about this: Shurflo diaphragm pump (RV)

50' of head is about 22psi. Pipe losses for 600' of 3/4" hose at 1.5gpm should be under 1psi, or 2.5psi for 1/2" hose.

The pump listed has a pressure shutoff at 45psi, and restart at 25psi. At 45psi, it pumps 1.5gpm using 6.5A. (about 80watts) 7.8ahr needed for 100 gal/day.

Cost would be:
Pump, $50
600' of cheap garden hose $120 (spend more, its worth it)
Deep discharge battery, $50 20ahr minimum size
Solar battery charger from Harbor Freight $200 (45watt)
Float valve, $10

So, the total for this system is 430 plus shipping. This is a light duty system with minimum parts. Its not going to last for years, but should get you up and running.

This pump has a pressure switch, so combined with the float valve it would keep the barrel(s) filled. The battery allows the system to pump using more power than the solar panels put out, as long as the panels toatal output for the day is greater than the daily power usage for the pump.

I've seen the question asked before... how bad are the Harbor Freight solar panels? I'm looking to get a couple, and would like to know if its a waste of money. I'll get a decent charge controller, so that doesn't matter.

Michael

Edit: I've found different pipe loss calculator results, but all show less than 5psi loss for 3/4" pipe/hose.


----------



## SolarGary (Sep 8, 2005)

wy_white_wolf said:


> SolarGary,
> 
> By the first link the only one that will handle 50' of lift also takes 18 amps to do it. That's 216 watts. A little out of the price range. It would probably be cheaper to spend the $600 on a shurflow 9300 series and only need a 60 to 80 watt panel.
> 
> ...


Hi WWW,
50 ft of lift is only about 22 psi. It you look at the pump curves, it looks to me like all of them make at least 25 psi at low flows. It looks like even the smallest one would pump about 0.3 gpm at 22 psi.

Not sure about the durability of these pumps, but the prices are low enough that it might be worth a try?

Gary


----------



## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

You not only need to figure pressure for lift but also pressure loss do to line friction. It'll take much more than 22 psi to push it through 600' of 3/4" hose with 50' of lift.

Also many pumps do not work well under backpressure. That's propably why the little pump is only rated with 25' of lift as shown on there chart.

WWW


----------



## watcher (Sep 4, 2006)

How about smaller pump(s) doing it in stages? Set a tank or barrel or two along the way with check valves then pump water into the first one then either have a second pump or move the first pump and have it pump water from that tank to another.


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

I've been using 2 of the Surflo pumps (above) for over 10 years and never had to rebuild them. I use one to pressure water for the house and the other to draw water from my outside collection tank..

At free flow they draw around 2-2.5 amps. I'd betcha if you used a 1/4" I.D. line on the output, it would work..

At open flow, it takes about 20 minutes to fill a 55 gal. drum..
~Don


----------



## Sparticle (Nov 1, 2004)

we weren't able to get water up the top hill to our water tank till we used a simple little RV water pump hooked to a battery. Worked like a charm. It takes a while, but the tank stays full. then we just water using gravity.


----------



## SolarGary (Sep 8, 2005)

wy_white_wolf said:


> You not only need to figure pressure for lift but also pressure loss do to line friction. It'll take much more than 22 psi to push it through 600' of 3/4" hose with 50' of lift.
> 
> Also many pumps do not work well under backpressure. That's propably why the little pump is only rated with 25' of lift as shown on there chart.
> 
> WWW


Oops!

Yes -- I think you are right -- I misread the pump curves vertical axis to be PSI rather than head in feet. 

Looks like the Shurflo type of pumps might be a better bet.


Gary


----------



## Amylb999 (Jan 28, 2007)

oops.


----------



## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

How about I get one of the small pumps from northern tool, get a battery, and a small solar panel. I figure if the pump ran 30-45 minutes a day it would be a lot. So a small panel should do it.... right?? Can get one of those northern tool solar panel/battery charge combos? Here is another question? Should I get the 5 watt or the 15 watt. I Think the little pump mentioned above uses like 4 amps. So if it ran for 40 min. It would use 32 watts a day. Figure a 20% fudge factor so your at 38 or so watts a day. So if I have 10 hours of sun the 5 watt should do. Am i right?


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

Keep it simple..
Figure 4 amps for 1 hour.. That's 4 amp hours/day..
Figure the battery losses.. 25%
You need 5 amp hours/day from a panel..
15 watt panel.. 1.25 amps..
Figure 4 hours of good charge time.. 5 amp hours..

You'll collect a little more than 5aHr. on a sunny day but that's OK if you use a small charge controller for flooded lead acid batteries. Gives ya a little head room to play with..

A small marine deep cell battery will work fine. Don't use a car battery..

Choose an area at the pond where you get sun all day.. (or, most of it..)

Point the panel to solar south and mount it solid.. (at the proper angle and stuff..)

Install a small 12 volt relay at the pump for an on/off switch.. (designed to handle the current of the pump)

Run some 2-pair phone line along with the water line to the area of your storage tank. Use 1 pair for one connection to the relay coil and the other pair for the second connection to the battery. (the other side of the coil will be connected to the battery..Opposite battery pole of the phone line connection) This will reduce the resistance but will be plenty to engage the relay..

Now all you need to do is short the phone line pairs to start the pump. (complete the circuit for the coil of the relay) You could install some sort of float switch at the drum and it would be automatic!

15 Panel @ $5/ Watt.. Around $75.. (for a good one!)

Battery.. Mebby $50-$60?

Charge controller.. $30-$40.. or maybe cheaper..

Pump.. Depends on the one you choose.. Surflo.. $75?

Relay and wire.. Mebby $30 tops..

Misc. pipes and hoses..? (for a straight run, cheap 1/2" garden hose would work..)

Yup.. I'd say you could do it for under $300..

Don't forget some sort of filter on the intake of the pump to keep the chunks out.. LOL
~Don


----------



## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

12vman said:


> Keep it simple..
> Figure 4 amps for 1 hour.. That's 4 amp hours/day..
> Figure the battery losses.. 25%
> You need 5 amp hours/day from a panel..
> ...


Thanks, I'll be ordering the parts. I'll let you all know how it works.


----------



## artificer (Feb 26, 2007)

The RV and sprayer pumps from Shurflo have a pressure switch built in. Using the pressure switch and a float valve would eliminate the wire run and relay. The downside is that if you had a leak, the pump would keep running until the battery was flat. For the "belt and suspenders" option, install both.

Michael


----------



## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

artificer said:


> The RV and sprayer pumps from Shurflo have a pressure switch built in. Using the pressure switch and a float valve would eliminate the wire run and relay. The downside is that if you had a leak, the pump would keep running until the battery was flat. For the "belt and suspenders" option, install both.
> 
> Michael


You'll end up with a dead battery either way as long as the tank isn't full with a leak. I think it would be better to run solar direct on the pump. No battery needed and the Shurflo pump will still shut off with a float valve. The pump would only run as long as the sun was shining. 

I still don't think the shurflo they are talking about will handle the lift. The one in my trailer pulls 4.4 amps and will not push water to the cabin we're building and that is only about a 25' lift and 200' distance. The pressure switch in it works at about 25psi on and 45psi off.

Wish they gave better details on the pump in this setup http://www.otherpower.com/danf_waterpump.html . Pretty close to what you are wanting to do.


----------



## artificer (Feb 26, 2007)

wy_white_wolf said:


> You'll end up with a dead battery either way as long as the tank isn't full with a leak. I think it would be better to run solar direct on the pump. No battery needed and the Shurflo pump will still shut off with a float valve. The pump would only run as long as the sun was shining.


Why is he going to end up with a dead battery? If the solar panel is selected to provide more charge than the pump needs, it should not drain the battery, as long as there isn't a leak. Going without the battery you need at least double the solar panels as with a battery. Initial fill up/battery charge could be done with jumper cables from a car/truck/tractor.



wy_white_wolf said:


> I still don't think the shurflo they are talking about will handle the lift. The one in my trailer pulls 4.4 amps and will not push water to the cabin we're building and that is only about a 25' lift and 200' distance. The pressure switch in it works at about 25psi on and 45psi off.


Are you running the shurflo with just solar? What's the running voltage to the pump? If its at least 12v, and it will not pump, the pump has problems. 25' of lift is only 11psi. If the hose is a decent size, say 1/2", then you should have less than a couple of psi for pipe losses. Total head of less than 15psi. Depending on the pump, it should handle 30-60psi with no problem.

The one problem I was thinking about with the 50' of head was that the pressure switch might not restart. 22psi of head might not let the 25psi restart switch to start. Shouldn't be a problem, but something to think about.

***************************
Edit: just re-read your fist sentence for the 6th time. Do you mean if he has a leak the battery will be drained? If so, that is the caveat that I mentioned already. If he's concerned about it, a battery sensing relay can be put in the system to ensure you don't go below 80% DOD.


----------



## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

artificer said:


> Why is he going to end up with a dead battery? If the solar panel is selected to provide more charge than the pump needs, it should not drain the battery, as long as there isn't a leak. Going without the battery you need at least double the solar panels as with a battery. Initial fill up/battery charge could be done with jumper cables from a car/truck/tractor.


Guess I didn't make it clear. The dead battery will happen WITH a leak no matter how you hook it up unless you go solar direct. Yes a LVD would partially solve the problem. They are usually built into the charge controller but don't shut off until 10.5v which is a dead battery. 



artificer said:


> Are you running the shurflo with just solar? What's the running voltage to the pump? If its at least 12v, and it will not pump, the pump has problems. 25' of lift is only 11psi. If the hose is a decent size, say 1/2", then you should have less than a couple of psi for pipe losses. Total head of less than 15psi. Depending on the pump, it should handle 30-60psi with no problem.


3/4" black plastic pipe. The pump is a 2088 series and it runs off batteries that are charged by solar. The pump simply will not push water that high. About like your talking about the back pressure not letting the pump turn off. The backpressure would shut the pump off before water reached the cabin. There is more to consider than just pressure. It would pressure up and shut off with the piping about 1/2 full. Piping was clear as I could pump water through it fine on the level.

The link I posted is someone running a shurflo solar direct. I wish I knew which one.

I guess the thing to do might be just to try the pump hooked up to the pickup before you spend the money on panels and or a battery. That would also allow you to hook up an amp metert to get a better idea just how much solar you do need if it works.

JMO

Solar panels take less maintance. The extra cost is partially offset by not needing a battery. They also store better through the winter without going bad. Solar panels last 25+ years and batteries usually 3 to 5 years and don't create a disposal problem. In the long run, solar direct would be much cheaper.


----------



## artificer (Feb 26, 2007)

WWW,
are you still trying to get the Shurflo pump to work, or is it a past problem? If it's a current problem, I have several ideas/tests/diagnostics that you could do.

The simplest and first test would be to check the performance of the pump. Tee a pressure guage to a ball valve, and put it on the outlet of the pump. (no hose) run the pump, and look at the pressure gage. Slowly close the ball valve, and note the pressure. Does it get to 45psi before shutting off? If it does, then replace the ball valve with the poly pipe, and try pumping again. What does the gage read and how does it fluctuate?

If the pump is good, and starts/stops at its rated pressures, I think you're running into a problem with the waters inertia. Head and pipe loss pressures shouldn't be high enough to cause problems.

As far as the linked pump setup: I think he might be using a Shurflo 2093. The 75gal/hr would be about 1.25gpm, which fits with the performance curve for 35' of head, and pipe losses. Since your pump puts out almost 3 times as much volume, that might be why you're running into problems.
Michael


----------



## wy_white_wolf (Oct 14, 2004)

Did a work-around as I only needed water up there for a few days. Don't worry about it anymore. When we get a well, then the cistern will be higher than the cabin so I won't need to pump it out of there. I still may need a pump to fill my batch heater put it won't be that much of a lift.


----------



## SolarGary (Sep 8, 2005)

Hi,
If you wanted to go with solar direct and keep the PV panel size down, this Shuflo SLV (Shurflow Low Volume) might be a good choice:

http://www.shurflo.com/pages/RV/rv_categories/general_purpose/generalPurposePumps.html
http://www.shurflo.com/pdf/rv/product_data_sheets/pds-8050-305-626.pdf
http://www.systemacc.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/21_41
Price is about $50.

The spec says it pumps 0.45 gpm at 25 psi with a 2 amp current draw. 
Still pumps 0.2 gpm at 30 psi.

At 1 gpm, 600 ft of 3/4 inch poly pipe only has 0.84 psi of pressure drop -- with a lower flow rate, the drop would be substantially lower.

At 1 gpm, 600 ft of 1/2 inch poly pipe has 3.9 psi pressure drop -- with a 0.5 gpm flow rate, it would be substantially less (about 1.2 psi I think). If you kept the flow rates low, half inch pipe would probably be OK.
Your total pumping head should be about 21.7 + 1.2 = 23 psi at 0.5 gpm through 600 ft of half inch poly.

0.5 gpm for 6 hours of sun gives 180 gallons a sunny day.

Poly pipe pressure drop table:
http://www.endot.com/support/installation/PRESSURE_DROP_PER_100_FEET_OF_POLYETHYLENE_PIPE.pdf


Like all the Shurflo pumps I looked at, its rated for intermittent duty, but it does have a thermal shutdown with automatic restart after it cools.
It might not like pumping for 6 hours of sunlight without a break, but it should protect itself with the thermal cutout?

I think you would want a check valve in the line so that it does not have to fill 600 ft of 3/4 inch hose each time it starts up -- 600 ft of 3/4 piple holds 14 gallons of water, or 28 minutes of pumping just to fill the 600 ft pipe!

Seems like a nice, minimal system? Anyone see anything wrong with this?

Gary


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

The only thing that I see wrong is no voltage regulation for the pump from the panels and a diaphragm pump doesn't require a check valve..
~Don


----------



## SolarGary (Sep 8, 2005)

12vman said:


> The only thing that I see wrong is no voltage regulation for the pump from the panels and a diaphragm pump doesn't require a check valve..
> ~Don


Hi Don,
Maybe something like this small linear Current Booster?
http://store.altenergystore.com/Sol...rters-Ppt-12-2A-1224V-Lin-Curr-Booster/p1352/

I've been powering a small March pump for about a month now direct from a PV panel with no ill effects as yet, but the voltage does vary -- sometimes well under 12 volts, but rarely much over 12 V. 
The LCB would also let the pump start sooner, and could (maybe) use a slightly smaller PV panel?

Gary


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

"For example PPT 12-2 M6 will power a 6 V motor from a nominal 12 V solar panel. Note that the motor current increase by the ratio of approx. 15/6. Thus a 1 amp 12 V nominal solar panel will power the motor at 2.5 Amps."

I don't see much advantage here and we're dealing with a 12 volt motor..
~Don


----------



## SolarGary (Sep 8, 2005)

12vman said:


> "For example PPT 12-2 M6 will power a 6 V motor from a nominal 12 V solar panel. Note that the motor current increase by the ratio of approx. 15/6. Thus a 1 amp 12 V nominal solar panel will power the motor at 2.5 Amps."
> 
> I don't see much advantage here and we're dealing with a 12 volt motor..
> ~Don


I guess that the way I read it, the output voltage depends on the model number. That is, the PPT12-2 M6 is for a 6 volt motor and PPT12-2 M12 would be for a 12 volt motor?
That said, I don't see how you say you want an M12 rather than an M6 on the order page -- I sent them an email to ask.

Gary


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

For such a small, temporary application, I'd stick to the basics. If it were a larger system for irrigation or whatever and the pump site wouldn't get much attention, then I'd understand going with a system with no battery..

Quote from artificer.. 

"Going without the battery you need at least double the solar panels as with a battery."

This is true also. If it were a permanent install, the non-battery system would make sense.. 

I see stanb999's application to be seasonal. (as mentioned) He could simply disconnect everything and remove the pump in the winter and leave the battery, charge controller, and panel set on location until next season. The battery would stay fully charged so there's no fear of it freezing..

I see this as a great project for him to learn from and not break the bank. I'm anxious to see how it turns out!
~Don


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

SolarGary said:


> I guess that the way I read it, the output voltage depends on the model number. That is, the PPT12-2 M6 is for a 6 volt motor and PPT12-2 M12 would be for a 12 volt motor?
> That said, I don't see how you say you want an M12 rather than an M6 on the order page -- I sent them an email to ask.
> 
> Gary


Some of those sites aren't user friendly at all.. (Another strike towards alternative energy..) Makes things more difficult than it has to be and that turns folks off..

They need to model your site, Gary. Keep things in a perspective that common folks can understand. Kudos and thank you.. :clap:
~Don


----------



## Farmerwilly2 (Oct 14, 2006)

12vman said:


> Some of those sites aren't user friendly at all.. (Another strike towards alternative energy..) Makes things more difficult than it has to be and that turns folks off..
> 
> They need to model your site, Gary. Keep things in a perspective that common folks can understand. Kudos and thank you.. :clap:
> ~Don


Give that man a cigar. I have a similar need: pump water from a spring, about 500 ft with about 35 feet lift to a holding tank, continuous operation as I'd like to direct the overflow to the stock tanks and pond. Trying to follow every ones advise on here and read the links makes my head hurt and makes hooking up the tractor and filling the tank with a bucket sound less painful. I need specs. in english for pumps and panels. At this point I could wear one of those beer can hats, replace the cans with small bellows, and let the throbbing from my temples pump the water up the hill.


----------



## artificer (Feb 26, 2007)

Farmerwilly2 said:


> Give that man a cigar. I have a similar need: pump water from a spring, about 500 ft with about 35 feet lift to a holding tank, continuous operation as I'd like to direct the overflow to the stock tanks and pond. Trying to follow every ones advise on here and read the links makes my head hurt and makes hooking up the tractor and filling the tank with a bucket sound less painful. I need specs. in english for pumps and panels. At this point I could wear one of those beer can hats, replace the cans with small bellows, and let the throbbing from my temples pump the water up the hill.



How many gallons of water a day do you need?


----------



## Farmerwilly2 (Oct 14, 2006)

If I could get 50-100 gal. a day pumped I'd be happy. That would keep the storage tank topped off. I had hoped to direct overflow to my stock tanks a then on to the pond. I don't need to water the garden every day, and I'd plan on about a 1500 gal. storage tank.


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

Farmerwilly2..
Hang in there. Let's see how stanb999's project works out..
~Don


----------



## Farmerwilly2 (Oct 14, 2006)

I'm pulling for him and as selfish as it sounds I'm hoping to hear the things he'd do over again if he could. So far it sounds like the poly water line is the way to go, along with drains for the line come winter. How long can pump leads be before I loose power to the pump? I'll be pumping from either a shallow spring--or--I dig a channel to carry some of the spring water to a sump in the field and pump from it, keeping my leads shorter.


----------



## Jim-mi (May 15, 2002)

. ."Pump electrical leads"

the answer is
1. pump voltage . . . .?
2. pump current draw . . . .?
3. distance . . ?
with that you can figure wire size.

copper price has gone thru the roof.


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

Farmerwilly2..
When dealing with a low voltage situation like stanb999's, it's assumed that the power supply for the pump will be at the pumps location. Low voltage DC has high losses through wiring at long distances. If you are thinking solar power, the pump location needs to be in an area that has exposure to the sun most of the day. If not, a small fortune could be invested in wiring alone, as jim-mi stated above..
~Don


----------



## Farmerwilly2 (Oct 14, 2006)

define long distances. 5 ft? 10ft? 50ft? Do you have a formula to calculate my max. lead length?


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

Here's some charts you can check out..

http://sunelco.com/basics3.aspx

It'll depend on how much current you need and the distance away from the power supply..

The DC charts are for a 1 way run. Just double your current to get the proper gauge of wire that you need for the job.. 
~Don


----------



## Farmerwilly2 (Oct 14, 2006)

Here's another question on the topic. If I use a deep cycle battery at the pump site I expect it to carry the larger current the pump needs. If I locate the panel a short distance away what range of charging currents would I be needing to carry to the battery? Would the charging current to the battery be smaller than the pump operating current, requiring a smaller conductor from the panel to the battery?


----------



## 12vman (Feb 17, 2004)

Rule of thumb when working with low voltage DC.. "You can never use a too large of a conductor". The larger, the better.. In my book..

The current of the panel depends on the wattage. The higher the wattage, the more current it produces. Higher the current, larger gauge wire is needed..

The distance between the source and the load, the demand of current and the working voltage is what designates the gauge of wire needed. Be it the circuit between the panel and the battery or the circuit between the battery and the pump, the physical facts of each circuit is what you need to work with..

Let's make a simple scenario..

Facts.. 
Working voltage @ 12 volts DC..
Distance between panel to battery @ 40' (The battery is the "source" or "home plate")
Wattage of panel @ 48 watts.. or 4 amps..
(The above is circuit number one..)

Pump @ 12 volts DC.. (Working voltage)
Pump max. current demand @ 4 amps..
Distance between pump and battery @ 10'..
(This is circuit number two..)

Facts of circuit one..
4 amp circuit @ 12 volts DC with a distance of 40'..

Facts of circuit two..
4 amp circuit @ 12 volts DC with a distance of 10'..

Using the 12 volt DC wire loss chart that I sent you to.. (Remember to double the current!) This chart only shows a one way run.. (small print at the top..) This compensates for the return wire run to the battery, or the ground wire. They assume that the ground is already there, at the load, like in a car stereo install where the body of the vehicle is the ground..

We'll be looking at 8 amps @ 40' and 8 amps @ 10'..

8 amps @ 40' will be 8 gauge.. Circuit one..
8 amps @ 10' will be 14 gauge.. Circuit two..

See the difference? If the panel was the same distance away from the battery as the pump, 14 gauge wire could be used there also..

Hope this helps..
~Don


----------



## Farmerwilly2 (Oct 14, 2006)

12vman said:


> Rule of thumb when working with low voltage DC.. "You can never use a too large of a conductor". The larger, the better.. In my book..
> 
> The current of the panel depends on the wattage. The higher the wattage, the more current it produces. Higher the current, larger gauge wire is needed..
> 
> ...


Yes it does. Now it is a matter of finding the correct pump for the location. That and pulling out my old trig text and seeing if I can remember how to calculate the elevation. Is it COS, SIN, or TAN? Maybe it's just Miller time.


----------



## mondakkid (Oct 17, 2006)

I am soo impressed with all the back and forth questions and answers. I have learned soo much by reading your answers. The forum members really do appreciate all the good advice that all of you have. We have some very knowledgeable people that spend a lot of time doing research, checking their books and notes, etc...thanks soo much from all that benefit from your time and efforts. mondakkid


----------

