# Doe refuses to breed, what to do?



## unregistered168043 (Sep 9, 2011)

I have a 9 month old 1/2 flemish doe that refuses to breed. She sits her butt down when the male mounts her. I left her in the male's cage over night in hopes that she would relent but I do not think it was a success. The male has bred my other doe successfully ( same age ).

Does she just not like that male? Or is she too young being a flemish and maturing slower? She is a beautiful wild rabbit color and I love those genes but she might be headed for the stew pot if'n she wont ever breed.


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## Shep (Aug 8, 2002)

Is she too fat perhaps? Sometimes mine get a bit fat and lazy and I'll put them on a diet of just grass hay and water..no pellets.. for a few days. On the other hand, I've had rabbits breed with one particular buck but not the other. It's like they have a preference... Good luck

Shep


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## rabbitgeek (Mar 22, 2008)

from rabbitgeek notes:
If the doe sits down or tries to climb the sides of the cage, I&#8217;ll wait for 5 minutes. If she won&#8217;t stand still and accept the buck, I&#8217;ll take the doe out and try her again in 8 hours or the next day (Monday). And the next day if necessary (Tuesday). If she doesn&#8217;t accept the buck, I will wait for the next weekend to try her again.

See complete article at my website
Rabbit Breeding Tips

Have a good day!


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

How is your lighting? This is not the natural time of year for a rabbit to be bred. I have found that if I don't use controlled lighting of 14-15 hours a day, then my breed willingness and my conception rate plummets. 

I also would second the question of wether she might be fat. Not necessarily visibly fat, but organ fat.


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## arnie (Apr 26, 2012)

Trade cages for over night then try


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## Pheasant283 (Mar 24, 2010)

I would agree with LFG that it may be a lighting issue. I used to have problems getting does to breed this time of yr. Now I have lights on a timmer, with a combination of artificail light and natural light, I shoot for about 14 hrs a day.


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## unregistered168043 (Sep 9, 2011)

Thanks for the responses. I do have probably around 10- 11 hours of light these days but they are in the garage under a window so maybe the light is not as strong as if they were outside.

I dont dare put them out because the predators are out of control this year. Might try a light.


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## mystang89 (Oct 10, 2012)

I had the same problem with my buck. He'd been proven before and went through the motions but she never raised for him. I got a second buck and put her in there with him and she raised the first time. Put her back in with the first buck and she still wouldn't raise. Went to the second buck again and she raised. She just REALLY doesn't like the first buck. To this day she will only mate with my second buck and I'm ok with that as long as she mates with someone.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

Its not the STRENGTH of the light, its the LENGTH of the light. You need 14 hours minimum.


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## arnie (Apr 26, 2012)

Has anyone had sucess with forced breeding ?


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## 2doordad (Aug 28, 2010)

I have Flemish too and am having the same problem. It took her a while last year to accept the buck, who I might ad is more than eager. I tried the overnight thing, the morning thing, the night thing, the afternoon thing, the holding thing, etc. I never leave them together unattended though. eventually she just gave in and had three litters, then summer and she is back to her silly games. Just keep trying them and make sure she isn't too fat.


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## 2doordad (Aug 28, 2010)

arnie, most of my bucks don't like me to hold them, they won't mount. I have one that would mount anything anywhere and he doesn't mind, but that is it.


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## mystang89 (Oct 10, 2012)

arnie said:


> Has anyone had sucess with forced breeding ?


Only one time and then she lost them in a miscarriage.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

I have force bred many times. SOmetimes it works, sometimes not. All depends on the light.


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## lastfling (Jun 23, 2011)

2doordad said:


> arnie, most of my bucks don't like me to hold them, they won't mount. I have one that would mount anything anywhere and he doesn't mind, but that is it.


I've always held the doe for the buck, not held the buck. Most times when I've done this, there may be a little initial foot stompin from the buck but eventually he climbs on board.


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## AprilW (Nov 25, 2007)

Lighting could very well be an issue. Sometimes being exposed to new surroundings helps. You could trade cages with the doe and buck for a day and try her again. Or I've had success bringing a doe in the house for a couple of days and then trying her (might also have been the warmer temperatures as it was winter when I did this).


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## mystang89 (Oct 10, 2012)

I never knew lighting played an issue with rabbits too. I knew that with chickens it effected their laying but figured rabbits would do it like.....well rabbits whether it was light or dark.


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## bowbuild (Aug 2, 2008)

Nver had a problem force breeeding....you need light. I run 16 hrs of light at all times.


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## AprilW (Nov 25, 2007)

mystang89: lol I've never had rabbits that breed like people say they're supposed to


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

I had always heard that light played a very little role in breeding cycles of domestic rabbits. Might influence them a little but I doubt it has serious effects. I don't supply extra light to the rabbits, just natural lighting.


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## arnie (Apr 26, 2012)

It is a bad idea to leave a doe over night unattended with the buck .now you will have to assume she is pregnant palpate her in ten days to to check her.


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## unregistered168043 (Sep 9, 2011)

AprilW said:


> mystang89: lol I've never had rabbits that breed like people say they're supposed to


I've had no luck at'all getting a litter from any of them and I've been trying since august. One doe will mate, she even prepares a nest and pulls fur from her belly but never has any kits. After a while she just quits acting pregnant...never have seen a kit nor any evidence of one. Its a miracle that rabbits exist IMO since their reproduction is so fragile and difficult.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

mygoat said:


> I had always heard that light played a very little role in breeding cycles of domestic rabbits. Might influence them a little but I doubt it has serious effects. I don't supply extra light to the rabbits, just natural lighting.


Totally disagree! I never thought it was an issue either, until I moved north to Wisconsin.

The first winter I lived in Wisconsin, my conception rate plummeted to near nothing. I think I made 30 breedings that first winter, and had 2 litters. I assumed it was due to the much colder environment.

The following winter, same problem. Come October, conception just suddenly stopped and the does were very reluctant to breed. Someone suggested putting a light on a timer to me so I did, maybe around Christmas. I waited three weeks and bred 10 or 15 does ( I forget how many). Everyone except a couple conceived and gave birth. Round two several weeks later, almost all got pregnant. 

The next winter, I used controlled lighting all winter, and had consistent litters all winter. This year, I kept forgetting to plug in the timer and go get a light bulb. I bred 12 does 9 weeks ago. Two gave birth. I bred 7 does 6 weeks ago, one gave birth. I bred 5 does 4 weeks ago and one is due anytime, and I bred 10 does 3 weeks ago and I think none got pregnant. I just plugged in the dumb light timer today. Finally! I will wait 2 weeks and do a mass breeding. 

Wait and see how many conceive, then you might change your opinion. I will be happy to post when I breed and how many give birth.

I also wanted to add that I have two rex colonies, with a total of 12 does. I have been having litters all summer at an average of a litter per doe every 6-7 weeks. I have had one litter in the last 7 weeks born. Forgot to put in the light timers.


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## 2doordad (Aug 28, 2010)

lastfling said:


> I've always held the doe for the buck, not held the buck. Most times when I've done this, there may be a little initial foot stompin from the buck but eventually he climbs on board.


I hold the doe.


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## DroppedAtBirth (Sep 23, 2010)

Had a doe in with a buck last fall that would plant her butt and lap the cage halfway up the side if he tried to mount. I only took my eyes off them for around 5 minutes or so at a time while feeding the other critters out there. She was still planting her butt and racing around the cage when we were done with chores so I put her back in her cage and figured we'd try again the next day. Same story over the next few days without the chores/blinking part. Assumed she wasn't bred for that round but when time came for all the other girls to get nest boxes, we gave her one too, just in case. She pulled all of the straw out of it and threw it out of the cage twice. Figured she really wasn't bred at that point so stopped caring about straw in her nest box but didn't take it out. Sure enough 31 days from the first go round (when eyes were off her just a few minutes at a time) she lost her whole litter. Dunno if he managed to grab her on the run like we saw him do with another of our does or just whether she was feeling that "private" that day...


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## casusbelli (Jan 6, 2009)

Well, you've all answered my question w/out starting a new thread. I've tried breeding my pair, and unlike last year, this year the doe hisses and tries to bite the buck every time I try breeding them. It's spanned 3 weeks. 
So I'll try artificial light. 
but can anyone say: if it works, do I have to continue the light thru the pregnancy? Will she 're-absorb' without it? (Like stressed does do, or so I've heard.)


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## Shayanna (Aug 1, 2012)

I'm starting to think flemishes are quite the choosy breeders..... What did I get myself into?


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

You need to keep the light going the whole winter and only discontinue when the natural light reaches 14 hours.


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## casusbelli (Jan 6, 2009)

L-F-G:
why? especially once they're 'hatched' and out, why do they need light? And aren't domestic rabbits the European species, which burrows underground away from light anyway (unlike american cottontails, which dont' burrow)??


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

Ok, if you only want one litter and dont plan on breeding again till late spring than its not necessary beyond conception, however, if she doesn't conceive, and you've shut off the light, then you have to start again by having the light on for 3 or 4 weeks then breeding again. Now you've really messed up her internal instinct, so you may as well quit and wait till spring at that point.

European rabbits do burrow into the dark, but they still spend the vast majority of their time in the light. Babies are birthed in the tunnel and left alone. Rabbit mothers typically only visit once a day to feed them. You wont find any wild rabbit litters in the winter.


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## rabbitgeek (Mar 22, 2008)

I know there was an article recently that says light doesn't matter. 

I know that from my experience using light for 12 to 14 hours per day we had more litters. 

Rabbits don't read the articles.

Even just a string of white Christmas lights was enough to improve production.

Having lights near the rabbits is also convenient when you have to go tend to them after sundown. Or when coming back late from a rabbit show and have to put everybody away.

Have a good day!


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## 2doordad (Aug 28, 2010)

I'm gonna say this. I started a week and a half ago putting a light on my VERY hard to breed doe, and sure enough she bred after that. I'm gonna say it's a good thing.


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## casusbelli (Jan 6, 2009)

Well, since my posts above (one week +) I've put a light on my doe from dusk till 11 pm (15 hours of light). tried breeding her again yesterday - still a royal b*tch, hisses and threatens the buck with open mouth. 
i give up. gonna get a new buck for her and new doe for him next year. First pair that makes a litter gets to live.
Can you eat 3 or 4 year old rabbit???


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## Fat Man (Mar 9, 2011)

Yes you can eat them. I suggest a nice braise in tomatoes and wine.

Sometimes a rabbit doesn't want to breed like a rabbit. We have one like that who will get one more try I think.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

casusbelli, two things here. First of all, I have a number of does that are royal pains. They usually calm down after a litter. Sometimes they do not. I have tans. They are flighty and I expect that sort of behavior in the breed. If you can't deal with it. get something else.

Second, I would suggest that you are doing the light backwards. I suggest having the light come on on a timer at 2 or 3 in the morning, so the evening light can fade away naturally, rather than ending abruptly. Ending light abruptly can throw chickens into molt. Maybe it screws up rabbits as well?

Third, don't jump the gun! I would suggest to anyone three weeks in controlled lighting before you can expect results, although some have them earlier.

You might also try a colony setup. Sometimes, no matter what I do, I have the occasional doe I just can't get bred. If I put her in with a buck, and even better if there is another doe or two, she is usually bred in 5-6 weeks.

Just my experience here. Hope it is helpful.


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## casusbelli (Jan 6, 2009)

Thanks, Lonely.
She has reared a litter before - last year, 5 good ones, no losses, butchered at 12 and 15 weeks. But even then it took two attempts to conceive. They are Californians.
I'm still giving up this year. It's late enough that it would push butchering into Spring, and in Spring the garden gets all my 'tention. And I don't butcher in summer - too hot and flies. For me, rabbits are a winter thing. I'll just try to breed before the days get too short next year. Live and learn. 
Re: colony - I don't know anything about it. Wouldn't the frigid doe and buck fight and draw blood? Do bucks fight one another?


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## Fetherhd (Aug 16, 2012)

I keep my lights going all winter for at least 14 hours a day. I have had some luck with a reluctant doe by leaving the light on contiuously for a couple of days...still... I had a flemish/new zealand doe who was this way,she eventually got quite aggressive with my buck and I have since come to the conclusion that if a doe is a difficult breeder she goes into the stew pot


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## Caleb Emmanuel (Jul 28, 2020)

bowbuild said:


> Nver had a problem force breeeding....you need light. I run 16 hrs of light at all times.


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## Caleb Emmanuel (Jul 28, 2020)

Please how does these lighting works


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## Alice In TX/MO (May 10, 2002)

From a Florida 4H page:

“Does are much more receptive to mating in the spring and summer as compared to fall and winter. This is because of the increase in the environmental temperature and length of the daylight hours. So, it is recommended that the doe be maintained in an environment that has a minimum of fourteen to sixteen hours of light per twenty-four hours, in order to be receptive to bucks year round.”


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