# Pig Fencing



## ranger4327 (Dec 11, 2008)

Greetings !! Was looking for info on electric fencing for raising pigs. I am anticipating having approx. 100' x 100' area for a few pigs. Saw some info on Electric netting and that looks fast and easy. However, what is the most economical way to fence (electrically) them in? I realize either way I will have to purchase an energizer, but does anyone have any recommendations? I have easy access to cedar fence posts. Total permiter would be approx. 400', times however many strands I go with. Lets hear it folks, dont be afraid to give me specifics on the gauge/type of wire, setup, and size energizer as well as a supplier. How is the cost compared to electric netting? Thanks in advance for any help. I intend to use the pigs to clear about one acre of stumps/brush, that I want to "garden" with in the future.


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## cooper101 (Sep 13, 2010)

Get the strongest charger you want to afford. One good stiff zap trains better than a lot of little ones.

Electronet is handy and complete. You can move it pretty easily, so instead of fencing in the entire square, you can get 2 or 3 sets and just sort of leap frog it and move them around. Might save you some money.

Electronet is also more of a 'complete-life' solution. You can start piglets in it and while they can run through it if they wanted, it's not as easy as 3 or 4 strands of wire. When they're bigger and could easily physically go through it, they're trained and won't mess with it. 3 or 4 strands of wire is cheaper, but you can't start piglets in it. They'll blow right through it. You need to train them in a smaller pen made out of something sturdier and let them out when they're trained, happy with their home and bigger. 

This is what I did with my current batch:

1) Started weaners in 8 hog panels with 1 electric strand around the inside. One end was also wrapped in orange plastic snow fence. This pen is inside the future big pen.
2) Wrapped one end of the future larger pen of 4 strand electric with snow fence and let them out into that. They had learned not to test boundaries and that the orange grid was bad.
3) Wrapped the rest of the final big pen (4 strand electric) with snow fence and let them out. They don't mess with the snow fence. It gives them a visible boundary, zaps them when they get close. I just zip tie it to the wire every so often. 

Not sure if this was the overall cheapest route, but I had some of the stuff, just needed to add a little here and there.

If I was starting from scratch, I would use electronet and a serious charger.


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## highlands (Jul 18, 2004)

Here are some tips and tricks on poultry netting for pigs:

http://SugarMtnFarm.com/blog/2008/06/poultry-netting-for-pigs.html

I would also agree, get a strong energizer. At minimum two joule. Better is six joule. Around here we need lots of lightning protection.

Step-in posts with the twine wire work very well too. Two to three lines from low nose to high nose height.

A physical barrier, even just visual, outside the fence helps a lot. It slows the pigs down so the fence charge has time to act and turn the pigs back.

For tight places we use pallet fences or wire panel fences. A physical barrier instead of electric. This prevents pinballing.

We have about 70 acres divided up into paddocks for our herds of pigs. See:

http://SugarMtnFarm.com/blog/tag/fencing

for more on fencing pigs.


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## bruceki (Nov 16, 2009)

Pigs have to learn that the electric fence is bad. So a smaller enclosure of hard fencing with whatever your electric fence inside, as cooper101 descrbes above is a good technique. 

But you can use any sort of fencing. Whatever you use the pigs will recognize. I prefer the smooth, 12 gauge "barbless barbed wire" -- you buy it on spools, it's the same wire as barbed wire but no barbs. I use this for permanent electric fencing -- around the perimeter of the property, for instance. Yes, it's heavy to work with, but it's tough, it is easy to visually inspect for damage, and a pig running into it isn't going to break it, which I have to consider with 600lb sows. You can get it anywhere you can buy barbed wire. You can use a lighter gauge galvanized wire, but I've had problems with it being constantly broken. With the 12 gauge stuff, I've had it up for 4 years and no breaks. 

For temporary fencing, I use 5/8" white poly rope with stainless threads woven into it. You can find it as "horse fencing", with step-in posts and a 12 volt charger that I use with a car battery. I use the PW200B That's not the best price, anything with the word "horse" on it costs 15% more than the non-horse version of the identical product. 

I like the bigfoot step in posts in yellow. They aren't very good at corners, but for straight lines or gentle curves they do fine. Yellow so that I don't lose them in the grass if they get knocked over. 

For temporary pens, like for weaners we have over by the driveway to sell, we use 34" hog panels. Four of them with 10 tposts and you've got a square pen, 16x16. When you want to clean it up you pull the posts and the panels, and you can go over the ground with a tractor. No muss, no fuss. You can see pictures of our weaner pig sale pens in this blog entry.


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## gerold (Jul 18, 2011)

bruceki said:


> Pigs have to learn that the electric fence is bad. So a smaller enclosure of hard fencing with whatever your electric fence inside, as cooper101 descrbes above is a good technique.
> 
> But you can use any sort of fencing. Whatever you use the pigs will recognize. I prefer the smooth, 12 gauge "barbless barbed wire" -- you buy it on spools, it's the same wire as barbed wire but no barbs. I use this for permanent electric fencing -- around the perimeter of the property, for instance. Yes, it's heavy to work with, but it's tough, it is easy to visually inspect for damage, and a pig running into it isn't going to break it, which I have to consider with 600lb sows. You can get it anywhere you can buy barbed wire. You can use a lighter gauge galvanized wire, but I've had problems with it being constantly broken. With the 12 gauge stuff, I've had it up for 4 years and no breaks.
> 
> ...


Good information on the Blog. Thanks.

Best,
Gerold.


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## ranger4327 (Dec 11, 2008)

thanks soooo much folks !!! I really appreciate your advice and recommendations and tips...... For a newbie, it seems to be a little bit overwhelming :-( I guess a couple more questions....

1) Do the solar chargers work well ? I have electric fairly close by, but will have to run an extension cord initially until i can run something underground.

2) Will any charger work for ANY type fence I intend to use ? Meaning, to i have to buy a specific charger for the specific fence ? (wire, netting, etc)

I want to get a jump start on equipment this winter and be ready for spring time. A loooong winter awaits us here in northern maine.

thanks again!! am loving the forum!!!

cb


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## gerold (Jul 18, 2011)

ranger4327 said:


> thanks soooo much folks !!! I really appreciate your advice and recommendations and tips...... For a newbie, it seems to be a little bit overwhelming :-( I guess a couple more questions....
> 
> 1) Do the solar chargers work well ? I have electric fairly close by, but will have to run an extension cord initially until i can run something underground.
> 
> ...


I would use electric. For netting i think the electric would work better.
I would also use electric for a double or triple wire. How close is the 
electric. If over 20 ft. i wouldn't use a regular extension cord. You may need a wire run to a box outside to carry the current required. Use waterproof outside elec. box. 
I run a elec. wire off its own breaker to a box outside. This way i had elec. for the fence, and a light outside area where the charger is located. Also elec. there in case i need it for anything else in that area.

You can google solar fence and elec. fence and compare them.
I have solar fence for my garden which is away from elec. It works fine in the summer i don't know about the winter mos. It kept the cows out of the garden. However it didn't keep the deer out. They laughed at my solar fence and just jumped over it.


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## bruceki (Nov 16, 2009)

I use a battery based system because I don't have electricity at my farm, and I need a higher joule rating than the solar systems provide. A deep cycle battery will power a PW2000b for about 3 weeks, and then I'll swap it out, charge it overnight and back out again on duty. 

If I had electricity at the farm I'd switch to 110v fence chargers. You get can bigger capacity ones, and they're pretty much maintenance free. 

Any charger will work with any sort of fencing, but different fencing will have different levels of resistance. So my 12 gauge wire electric fence will deliver a bigger shock (low resistance) than my poly rope probably will. Both are effective, but if I had miles more of fencing, I'd want a bigger charger. 

Bruce / ebeyfarm.blogspot.com


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## ranger4327 (Dec 11, 2008)

http://www.amazon.com/Zareba-A100LI...AI/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1318788259&sr=8-25

any thoughts on the above charger? for pigs, goats, or even chickens? while i dont plan using one charger for for all (in the event I expand), i am just wondering if this is adequate, a good product, and can be used for a variety of fences and animals. I am finding way too much out there and having trouble deciding........ thanks again !!!


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## highlands (Jul 18, 2004)

That's a good one. Personally, I would get the next level up in power.

Tractor Supply and Kencove also carry them. Here is where I usually get them:

http://www.kencove.com/fence/Electric+Fence+Chargers_products.php

Kencove tends to have good prices on step-in posts and polywire too.


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## ranger4327 (Dec 11, 2008)

woops.....i hope i didnt goof up. We have a brandy NEW TSC store open up and i went in there and purchased the 50 mile, 2 Joule Fencer. Reading the specs and the amount of fence i intend to use (at this point) several people recommended this over the 100 mile, 6 Joule. Should i return and get bigger? Will this suffice? I know bigger is better but.......

this is the charger i got. but paid MUCH less.....

http://www.amazon.com/Zareba-A50LIL...1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1318892860&sr=1-1


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## cooper101 (Sep 13, 2010)

I think that would be fine. I have a 2.5 joule charger and touching it once will make you never want to touch it again. A friend was helping once and got zapped and still had a headache 10 minutes later. Judging by the way the pigs scream when they touch it, they don't like it either. I actually used a "up to .25 joule" charger once and never had one get out. Used it this year as a temp when my good charger got burned by lightning and they still respected it.

I threw some snacks close to the fence the other day and the pigs in back were burrowing under and through the hind legs of the pigs in front to get at the food. The pigs in front (right next to the fence) were digging in the front feet to avoid getting any closer to the fence. They know and they want nothing to do with it.

The real key is to have a sturdy physical barrier until they learn what is and then a visible barrier so they don't just not see it.


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## ranger4327 (Dec 11, 2008)

thanks....I hope I didnt break the forum "rules" by asking for advice then going against it? 

I think I will keep it and give it a try. I do plan on having a physical barrier, as you suggest, also. I am thinking the hog panels like you stated above. Seems faster for me and perhaps can use them elsewhere, sometime down the road. How are they installed? With T-Posts?

thanks again. I plan on picking up my fence supplies this winter to get going in the spring. Anyone have any suggestions for the pig shelter? I am thinking 3-4 pigs to start with.

cb


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## cooper101 (Sep 13, 2010)

Use t posts and wire. With electric inside, I only put the posts every 8 feet. With no electric go every 4 feet because they will move it around. Use the wire to fasten the panel to the post. The panel goes on the inside of the posts. You can use 4 foot posts to save a little money. I bought some old rusty ones from a construction company. 

Set them up so the pen is mostly rectangular, but the sides all slightly bow out. Then get a bag of cheap plastic corner insulators. You can use a little fence wire to attach them to the corners and the line posts. Then run a strand of fence wire around the inside about 4 inches from the panel and about 4 to 8 inches off the ground and tighten it up with a ratchet tensioner. They'll hit the electric, the panel will stop them and in a about 2 days, they won't go near the panel. The reason for bowing out the sides a little is so that the taut electric wire won't get anywhere near the panels.


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## Boonehillbilly (Aug 31, 2009)

I like the hog panels, been using them all year and they have stood up to the destructive natural of the pigs.. Getting ready to fence in a 200 x 200 lot with cattle panels if or goats. And yes get a strong charger, one they will learn to respect usually with one zap.


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## ranger4327 (Dec 11, 2008)

good info folks... thanks !!!

One more question (for now).... those crimping sleves....Any other tools that will make the crimps? I thought the crimping tool was a lil pricey?

http://www.tractorsupply.com/fencin...ctric-fence-accessories/crimping-tool-3601172

Also....(i guess another question) Do I really need 3 ground rods for small enclosures? Do they get Linked from one to the other, or do i need to run individual lines from Rod to Charger?

hmmm that may be all for now !!!

thanks
-cb


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## cooper101 (Sep 13, 2010)

Forget the crimpers. Just make a loop on each end of the wire, hook them and twist each end a few times. Works fine. Crimpers are easier and probably work better, but if you only have a couple to do, don't worry about it. More important with a higher tension fence, but not needed for a little pig enclosure. Also more important if the fence will be subjected to a lot of force from larger animals. The point of electric is that the pigs will learn to never touch it, and the hog panel is there as a backup. Once they learn the fence, you can keep pigs in with just one strand of wire. They really don't mess with it. 

Yes, the crimpers seem expensive. As much as I try, there is no substitute tool that will make the crimps. If you're handy, you can buy a bolt cutter from Harbor Freight really cheap and make one yourself. I've used Harbor Freight bolt cutters to make a rivet setting tool. Same thing, you just need to make the little teeth to do the crimping.

One ground rod for a small enclosure is fine unless your ground is _really_ sandy and dry. If you have more, you just chain them together; one wire from the charger and then link them.


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## Faith Farm (Dec 13, 2004)

Check out this earlier posting for pig net fencing. I use this fencing for piglets, 
sows and growers with great success rotating to new grass when needed.

"Anyone have an electric net fence from Permier 1 for piglets?"


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## FarmerDavid (Jul 16, 2012)

Tried to search and find an answer but didn't get an exact one. I currently have my pigs confined in a hog panel lot. It works good but I will be needing more space so I want to start getting them use to electric. Can I use poly wire or should metal? I have extra poly wire on hand. Also if I train them to a wire now will they respect just a three strand electric fence later or do I need to go with a poly fence setup.


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## highlands (Jul 18, 2004)

Yes, we've used netting, including some from Premier1. There are some tricks to it. See:

Poultry Netting for Pigs | Sugar Mountain Farm


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## Tall Grille (May 4, 2011)

Due to a lack of electricity at the pigs pen I have this unit. ZarebaÂ® 3 Mile Solar Low Impedance Fence Charger - 3604308 | Tractor Supply Company 
Pen is currently 48' X 64' Hog panels with the electric run inside. I have two strands one at about 8" height and one at 14-16" 
I have had a total of a8 pigs over the past two years and have never had an escapee.
I probably shouldn't have said that.


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## FarmerDavid (Jul 16, 2012)

Tall Grille said:


> Due to a lack of electricity at the pigs pen I have this unit. ZarebaÂ® 3 Mile Solar Low Impedance Fence Charger - 3604308 | Tractor Supply Company
> Pen is currently 48' X 64' Hog panels with the electric run inside. I have two strands one at about 8" height and one at 14-16"
> I have had a total of a8 pigs over the past two years and have never had an escapee.
> I probably shouldn't have said that.


I guess i wasnt exactly clear on my question. What youve listed is what im wanting to do. My first question was on the strands at 8" and 14" can i use the poly wire stuff or do i need to use the actual smooth wire. 

The second question is when i need to expand and go outside of the existing hog panels should i use the poly fencing that highlands showed or can i use the wire/poly wire attached to t posts. 

Thanks for the replys


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