# Aluminum Corrosion



## blooba (Feb 9, 2010)

ok guys, I have a SW .38 special revolver. I thought it was all stainless steel but I guess the body is aluminum. I bought it brand new a few years ago and I did notice a few black lines in it after a while, kinda like a fungus growing in the metal. I then was out of town for a year and left it in the safe after oiling it. I came back to it being pitted and badly corroded. It is just the body, the cylinder and barrel (and other SS parts) are just fine. 

I have contacted SW and am hoping it will be covered under warranty but what did I do wrong. I did have dessicant in my safe. It was kinda humid in there but it still shouldn't have done all that. It is so corroded that it is no longer functioning. How do you guys keep your aluminum in good shape or was it just not anodized correctly?


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## palm farmer (Jan 3, 2014)

That's a stumper for sure, never seen anything like that, and our climate here is humid and corrosive salt air from the gulf eats up metal even this far inland


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

I know there can be reactions between metals as in aluminum next to another metal and the aluminum gets eaten , but I don't know specifically about this instance 

depending how your safe is set up one of those small low wattage heat rods may be needed 

I don't know much about it but I had a cousin who did a project in panama he said they leave a light bulb burning in the closet , not that they really need it any warmer but the few degrees extra heat drives the moisture out , and the cloths from rotting right on the hanger


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## blooba (Feb 9, 2010)

ok, so maybe it was a manufacturing defect, I was just worried that maybe I did something wrong, I do know the humidity probably has wrecked the ammo I had in there, when I get the gun back from SW I'm gonna take it out and shoot what ammo I have left. I wouldn't wanna bet my life on it. I love that little pocket sized gun but haven't shot it much so my aim isnt that great with a 1.7" barrel at any great distance, but if I ever have to use that one I'm probably gonna be real close anyways.

I thought about the corrosion between the different metals but I put it back in its original foam lined case before i left it and it didnt seem like it was coming from where the stainless and aluminum touched. Well SW is having me send it back to them for further inspection and repair. They haven't said it is covered under warranty or not but I sure hope they make it right.

I am gonna have to do something about the humidity because I wanna store my important papers in there also. I was able to keep it dry by using those big dessicant packs and just refreshing them in the oven whenever I was baking something, but I want a more permanent solution.


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## brownegg (Jan 5, 2006)

What model is it? Are you sure it is aluminum....could it be titanium?


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

blooba said:


> ok guys, I have a SW .38 special revolver. I thought it was all stainless steel but I guess the body is aluminum. I bought it brand new a few years ago and I did notice a few black lines in it after a while, kinda like a fungus growing in the metal. I then was out of town for a year and left it in the safe after oiling it. I came back to it being pitted and badly corroded. It is just the body, the cylinder and barrel (and other SS parts) are just fine.
> 
> I have contacted SW and am hoping it will be covered under warranty but what did I do wrong. I did have dessicant in my safe. It was kinda humid in there but it still shouldn't have done all that. It is so corroded that it is no longer functioning. How do you guys keep your aluminum in good shape or was it just not anodized correctly?


I never heard of this before either, so I did a little looking around......

http://www.matsceng.ohio-state.edu/~FRANKEL/fcc/pubs/data/smialcorrsci.pdf

A very lengthy article, full of chemistry and terms only a science geek would appreciate, but in short, to answer your question - yes.
Yes it's possible, yes it was likely a defect of impurities in the anodization of the aluminum and there are some preventative measures discussed in the link.
Light (which was surprising to me) , keep the ph high (acid corrodes metal) and keep away from salt (chlorides).


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## blooba (Feb 9, 2010)

brownegg said:


> What model is it? Are you sure it is aluminum....could it be titanium?


http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57767_757751_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y

No, its aluminum. I got it instead of the regular steel one because I didnt want any worries about corrosion over the years. I didnt realize it was aluminum but still never heard of issues like this under normal circumstances.

here is a picture of what happened. I haven't opened it but it is corroded inside also, tried to dry fire it and the trigger pulled, but no action and it didn't return, so I'm just sending it back the way it is.


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## brownegg (Jan 5, 2006)

That is really weird for sure. Let us know what S&W has to say about the corrosion issues you are having. They will send you a shipping label for returning the gun for warranty work...Good Luck!


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## GunMonkeyIntl (May 13, 2013)

That is odd. If the corrosion was caused by some outside influence (moisture, acid, whatever), then I would expect the stainless components to be corroded some, as well (they call it "stainless" and not "stain-proof" for a reason).

On the other hand, you say that the conditions in your safe were such that the ammo that was in there was ruined. That implies, to me, more than just a little humid, so I won't be betting one way or the other on the warraty status.


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## blooba (Feb 9, 2010)

The ammo looks just fine, and probably will fire no problem, just don't want my life depending on it in case any humidity got into the powder. The reason I bought that pistol is because it is basically 100% reliable. (or I thought..lol)

It would be one thing if the springs and internal parts rust (I could rebuild that) but the aluminum body is what is corroding.


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## brownegg (Jan 5, 2006)

I would go ahead and plink the ammo at targets for practice. If the powder is indeed wet, they just won't fire...not a safety issue in my opinion.


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## blooba (Feb 9, 2010)

brownegg said:


> I would go ahead and plink the ammo at targets for practice. If the powder is indeed wet, they just won't fire...not a safety issue in my opinion.


It is if the ammo is in your defense weapon. Hold on Mr Bad Guy, that shot didn't fire, gimme time to reload. :lonergr:


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

unless your ammo is practically sitting in water or oil or covered in green it generally goes bang , yes i unload my carry gun through the muzzle about once a month some times every other then feed it fresh stuff but , i have had rounds go through the washing machine , that i fired later just fine.

if the agitation and submersion , and soap don't get in some humidity shouldn't be a big concern

not to say I wouldn't store ammo in a vacuum sealed bag because i do , but for as much as we worry about this , i have carried the same slugs in my hunting coat pocket some times for years , in rain ,snow , sleet and I hunt surrounded by water it is always damp , but never had a slug fail to go off I had some that had dings all around the high brass from going in and out of the chamber close to a hundred times but they all went bang


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## blooba (Feb 9, 2010)

ok, we have a problem here. SW just called. The gun is NOT gonna be covered under warranty and it is beyond repair. He said "this is a chemical burn from some sort of corrosive" Before I sent it off I tried dry firing it and it got to half cock and locked up there. So it was just as corroded on the inside as it was the outside proving that it really wasn't the oil i used to rub it down before storage.

I looked to see what I used and it is Break Free CLP. I have seen no warnings anywhere that it is corrosive to aluminum so I am waiting for an email back from them to confirm that it is safe with aluminum but it is what the military uses and last I knew most military guns are aluminum.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

You might want to read this article.. It talks about Galvanic Corrosion. It could very well could be caused by the metal parts in the gun... 
http://www.randomgunstuff.com/1/post/2013/03/how-do-you-store-your-guns.html

Also, if you ever used a cleaner or solvent on the gun that contains graphite, it could be your culprit too.. graphite and aluminum is a real bad combination.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

did you have it just stored on a shelf in your safe and no other guns had a problem or was it stored in a holster or in a box inside the safe ?


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## blooba (Feb 9, 2010)

I put it back in the foam lined Smith and Wesson box that came with it.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

I stopped storing guns in any cases many years ago when i unzipped my 30-06 from it's case and had to peel the liner fabric of the case from the rifles stock. that was my first rifle I bought it when i was 14 with my money I was pissed.

I also think not all foam is equal I know some it is made with some very caustic stuff and that it off gasses


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Same here... cases are for transport... I've seen some friends messed up guns from leaving them in cases.. especially hard cases with the egg crate foam..


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## blooba (Feb 9, 2010)

Yea, its usually not in its case although I figured since I was going to be gone for a while i would box it back up wrapped in its silicone cloth. Thats the case that came from S&W so I figured it would be safe in there.


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## goodatit (May 1, 2013)

if S&W doesn't take care of it, take it apart and clean it yourself with red scotch-brite. get in the habit of checking your weapons once a month. put some silica-gel in with your weapons.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

goodatit , he was out of town for a year , he had no way to check once a month


if you have to leave a long time well cleaned then treated in cosmoline and grease with the grips or wood off is best


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## GunMonkeyIntl (May 13, 2013)

simi-steading said:


> You might want to read this article.. It talks about Galvanic Corrosion. It could very well could be caused by the metal parts in the gun...
> http://www.randomgunstuff.com/1/post/2013/03/how-do-you-store-your-guns.html
> .



This was not galvanic corrosion. It does not work as quickly a this happened. GC in a gun may show up as corrosion between the barrel shank and receiver making it difficult/impossible to seperate, when dissimilar metals are used, but it takes a long time to show up, and there are dielectric barriers the builder an put between the mating surfaces. 

At some point the OP got some chemical on it, or let it get fumed by gas that corrodes aluminum but doesn't affect stainless. Anybody's guess. 

S&W's definition of "beyond repair" should not be confused with "not repairable", though. The pitting was bad enough that they can't return it to factory-appearance, but the OP (or his gunsmith) can put it back in working order. Guns are such simple machines that there is not a lot that can render them truly irreparable. I say, have fun learning how to disassemble and reassemble your J frame!


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

I bet you could bead blast an powder coat the frame and not many would know it was like that before


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Or bead blast and ceracoat.. Do it at home and not have to send it out... Would probably look better than original, and you can pick your favorite color..


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## blooba (Feb 9, 2010)

GunMonkeyIntl said:


> At some point the OP got some chemical on it, or let it get fumed by gas that corrodes aluminum but doesn't affect stainless. Anybody's guess.


All I have used on this thing was Break Free CLP, and I have done a ton of researching, can't find anyone else having this kind of problem. I've only been able to take this gun to the range twice after buying this thing brand new. 

I am not happy!! Smith and Wesson said the finish warranty is only 1 year and the lifetime one only covers defects. I would say this is a defect or the CLP was defective. I know I can rebuild and refinish but I shouldn't have to.

Break Free seems to be covered under blankets of companies. They are owned by Safariland and I guess they are owned by BAE Systems. At this point I think this is the avenue I'm gonna try to pursue.


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## blooba (Feb 9, 2010)

The only downside other than the money aspect of the bead blasting is that the serial number looked damaged beyond repair. I know its illegal to remove a serial number. Of course I won't know until i get it done, how would I get around this if it ever came under law enforcement scrutiny. (Hopefully I never have that problem)


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

you can fix the serial number , just use an electric pencil to write it on the barrel 
or stamp it back in with a set of punches 

what do you think they guys who build tube guns do , when they epoxy the Remington 700 action into the tube they have covered it so they stamp it on the outside


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## brownegg (Jan 5, 2006)

I agree blooba that it must be the CLP that's the culprit. Good Luck with finding some satisfaction from them. You will prolly need S&W findings in writing to send to CLP. If it's the only product used on the gun, it has to be the problem.


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