# Best way for building small budget home. Kit or conventional?



## bobfoe95 (Jan 7, 2014)

Hello to all. I am in the early stages of a very serious commitment to homesteading/ CSA farming. I have narrowed down many details of the entire homestead. For example, I will be on a 5 acre piece of land, solar, rainwater collection, composting toilets and grey water system just to name a few. The thing I am really stumped on is the best way to construct the home. I plan to have it be very small, but expandable. After some research I have decided to have a basement so I must be able to work around that. The reason for choosing a basement is so that I can utilize water storage and utilities easier and have an easy area to finish over time, practically doubling my living space since I want a ranch style house. The full basement is expensive but I believe it will be very practical. 

Now to get onto what I have posted to discuss about. I have looked into many different companies and styles for building the house and think I have narrowed down what seems to be the best option. I want a 24'x32' Shelter-Kit Barn house. The materials come all cut and pre drilled for very easy installation. It is a post and beam style structure so it is very easy to assemble. The company has been around for 40+ years but I still find very little outside information on them. The cost for this kit I would like is roughly 40,000 with options and delivered. Then I must pay labor and finish the houses interior. The design I have for plumbing and electrical is extremely easy to do and I can do them myself. The first floor consists of a very open kitchen/ living area, 1 bathroom and 1-2 bedroom(s). I project my final cost to have it where it where I would like at 55000-60000 not including the foundation. The interior will be very simple and easy added too. 

But, after some searches I finally found an old thread on here where I guy had a very similar plan to me. A contractor commented that he could build the same house including labor/materials for 1/3 of the price, not including interior finish since Shelter-Kit is only a weather proof shell. I think that the Shelter-Kit might be designed for a solely DIY builder. I would be hiring a crew to help me assemble. Since this is the case do you think I am better off approaching this a conventional way and not messing with a kit? I cannot imagine a crew building the same shell would cost more, so it is almost like cutting out a middle man. 

I have gone site to site looking at contractor prices but they are all for a high quality interior finish. I want the shell to be made, and I will do the interior. Which route would you take? 

I can go into more depth if anybody would like.

Thanks!

Edit: Upon further research I remembered my old plan. This company is only an hour away. I could get a 800 sq ft house for 30,000 delivered! Maybe this is the way to go... http://www.amishcraftedlogcabins.com/index.php


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

We just got done with DSs cabin. Conventional 2"x6" stud construction on crawlspace. 2"x8" floor joists on 2-4"x8" post and beam supports, 3/4" tongue and groove plywood subfloor. 8/12 pitch trusses, 5/8" plywood sheathing, tar paper with standing seam roof. Studs wrapped and 5/8" T-111 siding applied direct, batten boards every 12" sides and gable ends. 24'x24', minus 4'x10' rear porch. Rear deck is 8'x10'. 4'x8' front porch. 10'x20' is bed/bath, 13'x24' is kitchen/dining/living. $26,000 including concrete and 2 man crew to set trusses, sheath and roof. He and I did the rest, plumbing, fiberglass insulation in walls, blown in in attic, electrical, sheetrock, painting and interior woodwork. Plan, permits and inspections included. Dark green stain on 8' walls and batten boards, cedar stain on gable ends, batten boards and eaves.

My problem with post and beam construction is finish, studs? interior? siding?....James


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## bobfoe95 (Jan 7, 2014)

I am having a hard time finding information on what is needed for eh interior. From what I have read from them this is teh weather tight shell, so all exterior finish. Including siding and all. The interior is just studs. 

What is DSs cabin? Does this stand for something?

Thanks


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## Raymond James (Apr 15, 2013)

Short for Dear Son . ( I think) DD Dear Daughter, DDL dear Daughter in law. DH husband. Not sure when, where this started but seems to be used on many message boards.


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

http://www.big-l-lumber.com/model_maryB.htm
Materials only, under 10 grand.


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

Here is a plan that is 16 by 24. stairway up and stairway down. Later add 8 by 24 sun room on south side and 8 by 24 for office/living room with pantry on one end, closet on the other, on the north side.


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## MushCreek (Jan 7, 2008)

I looked at kits, and couldn't see a savings. Same with modular homes. I built my own home (still working on it) out of ICF for the insulation and structural integrity. Not the cheapest way to go, however. On the plus side, my basement is very dry and already insulated.


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## bobfoe95 (Jan 7, 2014)

That "Big L Lumber" seems to be a great deal. That same kit would have costed double at Shelter kit. That is something to look into. 

After re looking at the Amish built log houses, I think those are truly most cost effective and I only live an hour away. I could have a 16x50 house with a 8x50 porch delivered with all the options for 40,000. I could always turn the decking into rooms if I ever wanted to expand. Also the basement idea would still work here. Thoughts on this? Or leave log construction for seasonal cabins? I would save a ton on insulation and interior as well since the pine logs have a good R rating.


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

You are paying someone to put those kits together, always cheaper to build from scratch......


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## bobfoe95 (Jan 7, 2014)

I mean I would essentially be paying a crew to do the same thing. Do you think it would be cheaper to just have a crew do it. 

Right now after talking to a bunch of people, I think a log home is the way I am going. Much cheaper.


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## warnimct (Jul 27, 2012)

If you have a Menards close by they might be worth checking out. They have the kits that give you the weather-tight shell as well. They have a bunch of standard options and you could possibly have the floorplan customized as well. http://www.menards.com/main/project-center/homes/c-9919.htm?criteria1_facet=Log+&+Log+Sided


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## MushCreek (Jan 7, 2008)

Make sure you look into the true R-factor of log walls. There are a lot of false claims about nearly every kind of construction, from stud to ICF to log. When they say 'Performs like R-XX', that means it isn't truly that good. Solid softwood has an R factor of about 1.5 per inch, so even massive 12" thick walls would only yield R-18. That's assuming that the joints are well sealed. There is thermal mass, which works in your favor for short-term temperature swings, but if you are in an area that stays cold (or stays hot) that wears off after a few days. We strongly considered log as well, but the required maintenance scared us off, as we are nearing retirement age. Also, there are a lot of horror stories about log homes shrinking, sometimes as much as 1" of height for every foot of log. Doors and windows are put in a channel that allows the log walls to shrink without crushing them.

It sounds like you want to be as self-sufficient as possible. If so, you want a house that is energy efficient and low maintenance (you're going to have plenty of other things to do!). I strongly recommend that you do some research on where modern home construction is today at a site such as greenbuildingtalk. I spent 6 years studying before deciding on a design and construction method. Regardless of what you decide on, do your homework!


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## bobfoe95 (Jan 7, 2014)

Thanks for the advice. Something to look into for sure.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Look at a garage package at a local lumber yard. You just build on top of your floor structure instead of slab or stem wall. Or build it on slab, cheap way to go, much cheaper than basement. You erect interior walls where you want them. Very easy to put kitchen and bath plumbing in the same wall, saves a lot. If put on interior wall no freezing....James


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## Kevo (Mar 28, 2012)

Well, I don't know if this helps at all but, my father-in-law helped his brother build a 24x32 house and they completely dried it in (including electrical and plumbing for less than $9000!
Now that being said, they used rough cut lumber from local sawmill, scrounged for plumbing fixtures, etc... at building salvage places and called in a few favors from contractor friends, but I am just saying that depending on the codes and restrictions in your area, people can build a modest house for less than you think.


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## bobfoe95 (Jan 7, 2014)

I don't think Iowa has a ton of restrictions. I also do not know if scrounging for parts would be my way to go since I do not have any contractor friends. I also do not think I know many people that have the skills to help me set it up, so I might have to get outside help either way.


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

Much as I love Menards (probably 80% of my house has come from them) I would never let them just bring you lumber! Hand-pick _everything_ and you'll be much happier. 

To the original question, much like Mush Creek, I explored kit houses too and just couldn't get the numbers to jive. Traditional stick framing (stud walls/fiberglass cavity fill insul) is probably the cheapest route you can go. 
But we didn't go the cheapest route, either. By doing absolutely everything ourselves, we could upgrade on design and materials and still come out money ahead.


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## MichaelZ (May 21, 2013)

If I were starting out new, I would do like a young family we know are doing. They built a very small house, mostly from cash, doing all the work themselves. But they built it with expansion in mind. So 8 years later they added on, and it took a number of years to finish it, but they stayed out of debt. Build small, but build with addition in mind as you design it.


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## KMA1 (Dec 9, 2006)

No question in my mind. You should be able to get a framing crew to build something that size much, much cheaper than you can buy a kit. Stick framing is the cheapest unless you want to try logs. Any good framing crew should be able to take a very basic plan with interior walls like you want 24 x 32 in about a week. They will framing carpenter will figure a materials list and will usually have it delivered from the best dealer as needed. They usually will put on siding and decking. Then have a roofer put on roofing. Much cheaper. Ask for framer recommendations at all your local building suppliers. And tell them you are looking for someone good who doesn't charge an arm and a leg. Get at least 3 estimates.


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## bobfoe95 (Jan 7, 2014)

I think that log building is the cheapest, but I am going to build with expansion in mind so maybe that is not the best idea.


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## bobfoe95 (Jan 7, 2014)

I think I want 600 square foot upper level and a 600 square foot basement. Stick framing might be the best option.


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## mulemom (Feb 17, 2013)

Bob-Please talk to someone who has built and lived in a log home. My DS&Bl built a kit log home with contractor's help in Vermont. The logs naturally shrink over time so they had to install roof jacks and lower roof each year for the first five years. Whatever they put between the logs to seal wasn't installed properly and it siphoned water between the logs-two years old and the entire thing had to be resealed. Log homes look great but they are not really maintenance free. Good luck.


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## KMA1 (Dec 9, 2006)

bobfoe95 said:


> I think that log building is the cheapest, but I am going to build with expansion in mind so maybe that is not the best idea.


Building with logs is cheapest, if and only if you get your own logs and put them up yourself, not a so-called log kit. But the learning curve is steep, not impossible, but steep. I know because my wife and I built our own. But it is not quick to build your own, if you don't already have general building and log experience. Your earlier posts made it sound like you were planning on hiring someone to build the completed exterior for you.


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

mulemom said:


> Bob-Please talk to someone who has built and lived in a log home. My DS&Bl built a kit log home with contractor's help in Vermont. The logs naturally shrink over time so they had to install roof jacks and lower roof each year for the first five years. Whatever they put between the logs to seal wasn't installed properly and it siphoned water between the logs-two years old and the entire thing had to be resealed. Log homes look great but they are not really maintenance free. Good luck.


This has been the experience of every log home I've known of... Not necessarily the roof issue, but I've even known some that just had to be sided like regular houses because they started gapping and rotting. 
I always recommend a LOT of real-world research before jumping in to that kind of expense!


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## KMA1 (Dec 9, 2006)

Erin and Mulemom,

My log house is almost 23 years old and I have not had problems with my walls or chinking. But like I said, the learning curve is steep to get it right.

KMA1


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