# Educate me on AGHs



## Habitant (Jul 21, 2010)

I read alot of people on this board posting about their AGHs. Seems to me to be more posts about them then any other 2 breeds. Why? Whats all the fuss about them? Do they give tastier meat? Are they more food efficient than other breeds? Why do you keep them? I keep other breeds but I am curious if so many of you keep em there must be a good reason.

I from time to time see people wanting to get rid of their pet potbellied pigs on Kijjii cheap and I often wonder...hmm


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## Rogo (Jan 1, 2006)

I had always raised the farm hogs, but didn't know where I'd be living. Some deed restrictions say no hogs, so I went for the Potbellys....or as the meat growers call them, Asian Heritage Hogs. In every country they're a meal on the hoof, but in the U.S. they're pets, not livestock!

I found one meat breeder in my state and she raises her pigs like I do, so that worked out well.

Pork is pork so I'm a happy camper. The adults are about 10 - 11 inches tall. 

Haven't heard of any AGH around here.


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## pancho (Oct 23, 2006)

Much like other animals, they are a fad.
If you like lard they are the hog for you. If you like meat they are not the hog for you.
Most of the people who have them now are trying to sell them to each other and others who want in on the fad.
They have been around for a long time. Years ago the market for lard hogs went to zero. The price of guinea hogs followed. They were very few guinea hogs raised.
No there is a premimum paid by other people looking for something popular.
Try running a guinea hog through the sale ring to see what people who buy hogs for meat will give for it.


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## Raeven (Oct 11, 2011)

Habitant, I am a fairly new owner of AGH but have been researching them and speaking with experienced owners for a couple of years before pulling the trigger. Here's why I wanted them:

They are a small, manageable and personable breed that yield excellent meat in a reasonable amount (approximately 75 pounds per pig) at regular intervals, raised on little more than pasture. My pair are registered so their progeny may also be registered if that's what a buyer wants, but that's not my main focus. I have them for meat. 

In addition to stocking my own freezer, I can use the meat for barter. I can pen them in the garden in the fall and they will till and fertilize. 

AGHs are a breed meant for small acreages, not commercial purposes. I'm not looking to make money on them. They are part of a larger permaculture plan for my land.

Here's a link: AGHA

Lots of good information on the breed there.


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## blu_redneck (Dec 26, 2007)

Guess I'll add my 2 cents! Guinea Hogs were/are a small homestead hog that has lard and meat just like any other hog. The triple plus in my opinion, being a small stature gal, is I can butcher one by myself in very little time. The meat is very well marbled, making it juicy and delicious. 

The hogs are regular hogs in smaller packages. This also was one of the main reasons for my purchase, as well as helping the breed progress, I didn't want a huge hog knocking me around while I tried to feed them. And when I do butcher, I'm not filling the whole freezer with one hog. Lots of room for other meat choices. When the larder runs low I have meat on the hoof just waiting for butcher time!

Also, they are good foragers if you have pasture they can be raised on. Tilling and fertilizing as they go. Improving the pasture in the long run.

I think the best part of my experience so far is how good the sows are as mothers. They are very good with the piglets but also do not mind human interaction. I've been right up in the nest with my sow and piglets to sex them. Not once has my sow ever been hostile. This was not the case with other breeds of hogs. However, one should always take precautions with any and every animal. Defense is always #1 when in with all my animals no matter how docile, cause today may not be a good day for them.

All in all, I'm very proud of my American Guinea Hog adventure! And as far as I'm concerned they will be part of this farm for many years to come. Yes, I've sold some piglets. Those sales probably paid for the feed to get them to sell and a little more. You aren't into a heritage breed for making money or at least not purely. Taking on a heritage breed should mean being a good stewart for the breed. Otherwise, just get a regular meat hog, please!


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

aaaaaaaaspaeking a little more onto the subject of the AGH. No they are not a fad at all. Being a member of the BOD I can speak well for the AGH. The Association has had genitic testing done in Spain and a second round is being done now in the U.S.. We have found that there are several distinct and different breeds of the Guinea Hog. It is believed to have originated in Africa but no hard fast evidence to this. We do know it was prolific before the Civial War and died out tremendously during the Civil War.

Yes it is a small stature hog. I have raised Blu Butts,Yorks, Poland Chinas and Hamps and the Guinea Hog. I am also of small stature and a female. I prefer over all-time and time again-the Guinea Hog. It does not compare to the QUANITY of meat that a full size Hamp or York will but it is the tops in meat food and taste. It is rated very high in this catagory and others by ALBC and by Slo Foods International. Check for the article in the ALBC journals(2010) regarding this hog and its ranking among restaurant chefs. I had three boars butchered-no need to casterate this breed-and mine were not-and I just shared the meat with others for taste testing, preperation time, visual and textureal qualities. I have had absolutely no negative feedback regarding the meat in any catagory. I wanted and openly solicited people to try the meat for me and to actually give me written feedback so that I could support this hog further to the public. 

The hog is very tame over all. Any aggressiveness by a breeder should be culled out. Handeling the hog, walking among them, spending time with them just increases the friendliness in them. They allow you to be right beside them during birthing-even with the boar in the same enclosure. The boars make great fathers and will assist in the rearing of the young. I can handle the babies at birth and asisst if needed in the birthing process and I have no fear of aggressiveness by the parents.

They have a naturally high immune system and do not need shots of any kind at birth and etc. I do worm 2x's a year which is right after birthing time. 

This is predominately a pasture based hog. I say the "predominately part" as in the south or in warmer climate areas there is no winter or a hard winter and not all pasture or garden raised products are gone during the winter months. In the north with the harder winters there is more of a need with the pastures covered in snow to do some grain supplements but actually the free minerals, hay and straw are adequate for them. Some people add in table scraps and the like or have access to other produce that is thrown away. 

I currently have 24 registered hogs on my property and I know of others that have many more. If you want a lard hog-you overfeed them corn and if you overfeed this breed you will get a hog with lots of lard. Normal feeding twice a day is scoop full only. Overweight hogs do not breed well if at all and can cause injuries, particularly to the females. They also have more difficulity with birthing due to big babies. I have had several people buy a hog from me with the express idea of raising a lard hog. If you let it pasture like it is suppose to and minimul feeds, you will have a meat that is nicely marbled, dark red in color(look at the meat of a pork chop in the grocery store--it is all white in color) and a meat of excellant taste and certainly one that many chefs are seeking. As well as rhe lard from this hog. Many chefs are going back to using lard-current articles are written on such- and this hog produces a fine clear and clean lard.

Body weights-this is a slow growing hog. Most commercial hogs have been bred to put on weight fast-get to market value and sell. The guinea hog will grow slowly compared to the commercial hogs. But this hog within 2 years raised and feed correctly, can weigh in at a good 300 lbs. or more. And the idea of a little meat in the freezer is a better spend of your money than a full freezer of meat that will actually be considered freezer burnt and poor in taste and texture within 6 months of being frozen. And sausage from this hog is heavenly as well as the smoked hams. Victoria Lynn AGHA For the Love of the Hog

This hog tends to leave body waste in one area and it also at times will have a sweet smell to them. There is no smell by the way of their body wastes which is a plus in keeping the hog in confined spaces as opposed to pastures.


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## pancho (Oct 23, 2006)

One other thing about the guinea hogs that might be worth thinking about.
The people who are talking about how great a guinea hog is those with guinea hogs for sale.
Why spend 2 years raising a meat hog? You can raise lots more pork and a better quality in 6 months.
You feed a hog 2 years and only have a 300lb hog. A large part of that is lard.
You feed a meat hog 6 months and you have a 300lb hog with lean meat and no lard.
A meat hog will also dress out a higher % than guinea hogs.

We used to raise guinea hogs. They were my favorite hogs. Except when it came to eating the meat or selling the hogs. For pets they are great. For food, look at why they are not that many of them and why they are not bought for feeder pigs.


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## tab (Aug 20, 2002)

Interesting topic. Having small pigs pasture raised, is an interesting concept. I now have new research reading .


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## Rogo (Jan 1, 2006)

I heard the same negativity about the Potbelly pig (Asian Heritage Hog) and found it wasn't true.

If raised as a pet, sits on the couch and watches TV with you, fed the feed for Potbelly pigs, you'll have a lard pig. Roaming outside and fed like a pig should be, it's a bacon pig. 

Standing 10 to 11 inches tall (evidently smaller than the AGH), they give about 50 to 60 pounds of meat.

Maybe not for everyone, but with the family grown and gone, these are great pigs for me and also my dogs who get the bones.


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

Pig for pig?-the taste of a pasture raised hog will surpase any commercial bred hog. The commercial hog came about from the need to supply a bulging national demand for food supply. There were several hogs that originally went into the mix to get the commercial hog today and since those hogs were not the favored or "chosen" ones to tweak and development the genitics for a fast growing meat hog, those other breeds were left behind and some to almost die out. 

Of the three AGHs I had butchered a few months ago?--I did not even have enough ard from them to be processed and still not enough to process "green" at home. And I had wanted to try processing some lard to learn for myself how to do it! There was just not enough lard on ANY of the three that went in. All over 300# and finished out(not including the hams,bacon and sausage amounts) at over 185# each of cut and wrapped meat at a year and a half old. The sausage weighed in about 80# total and I had the hams and bacon smoked and they were weighing at approx. 60# plus.

When I look at the color of the commercial hog meat as a pale anemic white or shot up with coloring to make it look pink or red and then cook out to a grey white color-and then look at the guinea hog meat that comes out in a rich red color and stays that way through cooking, it truly does make one wonder what all goes into that commercial meat. 

Maybe the breed is limited in numbers in some states but all in all there is a good representation across the states of this breed. There are a few owners who have upwards of 50 or more hogs and one I know of with approx. 200 or so. Do they register all of them so that the Association can keep an acurate total? Unfortunately no. We wised that they would so that we can see then how many of the guinea hogs are out there. We do know it is more than is carried on the registration books.
I misspoke by saing in a previous post that we had identified several different breeds and I meant to say several different lines. And those lines are within the breeding stock of the original herds that were recovered. Sorry.


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## ONG2 (Sep 22, 2010)

Farmer John, you know where of you speak!!! 

We sold 20 head of AGH this spring. Some went as breeding pairs and we got far more than what you would get for commercial cardboard piglets! 

Some were bred gilts that the buyers intended to farrow & eat. A couple were year old boars that went for food and the rest were purchased to put out on pasture for later consumption.


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## happydog (May 7, 2008)

I can tell you why we raise them. Last year we bought a hampshire cross from a friend and raised it along with our guinea hogs. While the guinea hogs thrive on nothing but pasture and extra milk from our cow, the poor hamp required large amounts of bought feed. They grow so fast they simply need the extra calories. I was shocked at how inefficient it was for us to raise him compared to the AGHs. 

Yes, the AGHs take longer to grow out, *HOWEVER, during that time we buy no feed for them.* They're basically free meat. For us, that trumps every other consideration. 

I live in North Carolina, arguably the pork capital of the nation. I've eaten barbecued pork all over this state for 30 years. The best pork I've ever put in my mouth came from a guinea hog. Moist, tender, flavorful. It melts in your mouth.

In the end I guess it comes down to how you want to raise them and what your personal objectives are. If you want to raise hogs in a little concrete pen and feed twice a day till it was time to run them through the sale barn, you'd want a commercial hog. A guinea hog WOULD get fat if kept penned and overfed. But if you want to raise healthier, self sufficient pigs on pasture, with little outside inputs and maintenence, they truly excel.


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

Great for you ONG2 and a good report and sale.

I have had some experimenting that I have done over that last few years with this breed of hog. Sometimes you read the forums and etc. and you wonder-hmmm-is that true? Then at some point after all of the reading, emailing an owner and truly "talking" and "seeing" the AGH being raised -then you just have to get busy and jump in and quit waiting. That is what I did. I jumped in and over a three month period I bought 2 pairs for breeding stock. 

I experimented in several ways. One was whether it was true that the male-boar-could be kept with the female-gilt/sow-from breeding time to litteriing. Yes you can. I am amazed at the docile and caring attitude the large males have towrds the younger ones. I am NOT saying that this does not happen in other breeds. I do not know if that is the case or not. I do know that in my stock the males at first were kept seperate from about 2-3 weeks before littering to being kept with the females at all times and through raising to about 3 months or so in age. They have done amazingly well and thrived. No injuries, no deaths, no starving. 

I have kept them penned and out on full pasture and slight woods areas. I prefer the pasture due to several reasons. One is feed cost, another is ease of care, another is meat taste AND texture, and another is the overall disposition of ALL of the hogs that are in that pastured group. They do know each other and they do remember each other.

Babies in a penned or in pasture area can go from mom to mom if they want and nurse and the moms/aunts/grandmoms-whatever-do not care. They will feed alll who come to the table and do not raise a fuss over it.

And I did not have to learn how to castrate them. Not that I could not do that but just was maybe not what I wanted to really learn ya know.

And I do so very much discourage anyone from messing with the genetics. Let this breed stay as it should be. I have heard of the breeding of the AGH with the potbelly pig and someone I talked to was going to look at breeding with the large blacks. My question is why? Breeding for specific traits is a long and ardous process that few people are willing to commit to. We then have a bunch of crossed genetic pigs out there that someone then wants to register and cannot get the paperwork for them or get them registered and then they have a fit because they could not do so. That part is my IMO talk.


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## Mare Owner (Feb 20, 2008)

Whether Guinea hogs are right for your farm depends on what your goals are. If you want to raise a lot of pounds of pork as fast as possible, they are not going to work. If you want a small hog that will have a job other than to eat commercial feed, that grows slow on minimum inputs and uses those inputs to produce marbled meat with more flavor, and also wonderful LARD for cooking and other uses, they are a good choice.

If you want to raise them to sell, you won't be able to take them to a local sale barn and get market price for their meat, because the meat buyers there don't want them, they want big lean hogs that need a lot of grain to grow and finish fast.

There are pros and cons to every breed, and the responses here show that pretty well. It all depends on what your goals are for raising hogs.

And yes, I'm an owner/breeder/seller of Guinea hogs and don't make a dime on them, they cost me more to raise than I get from any sales. I just love the breed and support conservation of them as they are, without changing them to make them fit the more modern pork production. And they taste so much better than anything else, I'm happy with them.


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## ONG2 (Sep 22, 2010)

Mareowner and Farmerjohn I could use your thoughts. We have 4 bred sows in a 9 acre wood/pasture/brush renovation project, this is our 1st outdoors farrowing. There are 2 boars in with the gals. All are registered and we kept the boars apart for specific breedings. Now for a couple of quick questions. 

1.) The sows are all due in July till the 1st of August. What is the best way to keep track of the different piglets? When they farrowed in the barn we kept the piglets separate and then ear tagged them at about a month. We don't have that luxury this summer. I have thought about a small ear notch to differentiate the litters. Do you have a better idea? 

2.) We like to let the sows regain their body condition before letting them in with the boar. Will the sows cycle and come in heat if they are nursing the piglets? We have to make sure of which of the boars breeds the individual sows, should we leave the boars in with the gals or separate before an expected heat?

Thanks


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## tab (Aug 20, 2002)

How do you fence for these pigs? Cannot imagine nine acres enclosed with hog panels!


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## happydog (May 7, 2008)

We use 3 strands of electric. Works fine. My pigs don't seem to have the best eyesight, so we used some white horse tape for the middle strand.


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## Raeven (Oct 11, 2011)

I have a new breeding pair. I have a roughly 75 x 100 foot fenced area with a hog shed for them. I put electric fencing down low at hog nose height inside the perimeter of that area.

Adjacent to that is a 4 acre pasture surrounded by forestry and creeks. That area isn't fenced very well and not electrified.

It took them no time at all to work out the meaning of the electric wire. They stay politely within the fenced area with the shed each night.

During the day, I let them loose on the 4 acres of pasture. They roam around all over the pastured area and put themselves away in the shed at night. All I have to do is go down and close the gate (I do usually give them a treat for being such delightful pigs!).

Happydog gave me some great insight into these pigs: She said that she didn't think they would roam if the area you wanted to keep them is more attractive and less scary than the area where you don't. That has certainly proved to be the case with mine. Easy, easy keepers.


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## happydog (May 7, 2008)

And that reminds me of another good thing about AGHs.











They're safer around kids and the fencing/penning is easier. Wait, that's two things. lol.


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## ONG2 (Sep 22, 2010)

tab said:


> How do you fence for these pigs? Cannot imagine nine acres enclosed with hog panels!


We put up regular wove wire sheep fence with a strand of barb on top. So far (sound of knocking on wood) the hogs have not tried to get out. They are at the gate every morning waiting on a taste of grain.


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

I really do think that food is the answer as in grains or a food as in veggies that they especially are fond of. They can be trained quiet easy to come when called from most any area. Mine will come at the sound of the garden tractor as they know that I am carrying food. I also think they know colors or at least shapes. If I have a bucket that I deliver grain to them in or a colored "scoop" of grain, they come running. I have had to go to the bottom of my pasture/wooded area with the garden tractor and just a scoop of grains in a colored scoop and I call them and they will follow me all the way back to the barn which is a "fur" piece of land to travel. I do not go fast as they seem to be able to only go a small distance before needing to rest a bit. All up hill for them. So we stop and rest and if they start to get distracted a little and want to wander away-I just call to them again and drop a bit of grain on the ground to remind them of what they have waiting for them at the barn lot. 

ONG2-electric fencing works great. I use just 2-3 strand of the white electrical fencing placed about 8-10" from the ground-then another strand up from the first at about another 12" and the third at about 12" from that. So I have essentially covered 30" or so electric fencing in height. At the barn area I have placed it even shorter so that I can step over it without having to turn it off to go in and check or do any maintence that I might have to do.

Yes-if you leave the boars with the girls you do run the risk of not knowing who bred with who for your registration records. A hog can come back into heat within 3 days of littering. Also the girls will eventually all tend to "go into heat" at about the same times. Many animals do this. If in a wild herd of any kind, the idea by nature seems to be that the males are "roamers" and need to breed as many as quickly as possible to promote their genetics and for the survival of the breed before they move on so the females all seem to cycle together. I read that-not my ideas -but one that I have in my own herd watched for and kept track of and mine certainly do. Drives all the boars crazy at the same time. What a racket it can be. Try and check the sex of the young ones on day one of birth-ear tag or notch then. They are with their own moms pretty closely for a few days before they go off on their own and start getting curious and leaving the "nest" so to speak. Or another thing I have done is to use a can of spray paint on their back sides to color them for a specific mom. Does not hurt them and at a glance I can see which ones belong to which moms. Paint does not wear off too awfully fast and will last for quiiet a few days to more than a week depending on their activity. That gives me time to get the ear tagging done. If I wait until they are a month or more old then it becomes a job that is difficult for one person to do. They are very stong at a very young age. I have had to do this on several occasions as I was pressed for time to do all things that a farm requires. Worked great. Orange fluresent paint shows up real good. I think mine actually lasted for a good three weeks or so. 

If you can seperate the boars until you plan to breed that is the best of course as you will have better control of the breeding program and less "mistakes" occuring. It is always good to leave the boars with the gals for two complete cycles. They sometimes breed on the first session-you see it-but for some reason-it may not always take. This way you are real sure then that this boar is the one that is to breed this particular sow. Turn them loose all together and you may have a different boar breeding that sow on the second heat cycle. And then which boar is really the father of the expected litter?

Just a word of caution with the pic of the hog with the little girl. Beautiful picture but always remember that any animal can turn and can turn on a dime. Safety is always the main concern. Wherefore I speak I know. I got "tusked" by one of my boars this spring. My fault-not his as I went into a situation I should of known better. It was as I was "going" in that direction that it hit me I was probably not doing the right thing but I did it anyway-did not seem to be able to stop myself at the time. He hit me 4 times with the side of his head-hurt but not too much -so I kept on doing what I needed to do anyway. He was done-he walked away and went back to his area that he had gotten out of. For him all done- all over with. I finished my chores and then an hour or so later went to the house and decided I had just better check my leg. After I took of my insulated Carharts and the flannel lined blue jeans-I saw the damage to my leg. Of the 4 hits his tusk ahd gotten me three times. One pretty dee-two minor and scratchs covering a good 6" or so. Blood a little. So I messed around and cleaned it up and decided 4 hrs. later to got to the emergency roon. Of course all on a Sunday. Then I decided that the antibiotics were too expensive and since I have no insurance I did not get them. Well within 2 weeks I had blood poisioning and my leg was a mess. Also this was on my left leg that had an artificial joint in the upper and lower joint bones. Not what you want. You can get an infection in those joints and end up with a leg amputation. I was certainly pretty dumb in this case but as a word to the wise. Be careful at all times. Infection seems to be all cleared up and I sure beratted myself for a long time as I knew better but put myself in harms way anyway. When I went back and looked at the Carharts and the jeans I found the holes where his tusk had come through them. I do have a more healthy respect now. The boar was not one raised on my farm but never the less I should have been more cautious. He was more interested in getting into the "turf" of another boar who was with a sow for breeding. I can only imagine what might have happened if the boars fought it out and I was caught in the middle of two of them fighting. Maybe an elecric cattle prod at all times on a person might be a good idea or to carry a taser gun. Hitting on the nose did not work at all. And it does go to show that not all fencing is sound proof and safe. These guys have an amazing amount of strength no matter what their size or disposition, male-female or even babies. I have hog panels-which are stronger than cattle panels and I have evidence of just what their snout can do to seperate the spaces even further apart in the hog panels as well as in cattle panels. And do not be fooled-these hogs can clear the top of a hog panel with ease if they want out. They look like a ballernia in motion going over the top of them. Maybe a hog panel with electric wire running on it on the top, half way and the bottom. I have seen them bend a gate out of shape with ease also. Very forceful animals when they want to. I have never had one charge me so to speak and I have been in with the boars with the females when littering takes place and they can be very docile and loving. This boar was fairly new to me and as I said had been raised to adult hood from another farm. He just had maybe poor manners! But do be careful and cautious at all times. 

Sorry so long and I sure hope I answered the questions. Any and all questions are welcome. It takes all of use to give our methods of doing things and our input to learn and try and to find out what works for each of us and for each of our own particular situations. An "ah ha" moment when we read something new.

Now you guys' input. I am thinking of using the large polytanks for watering. Put in a nipple and ? Easier on me for watering-provides water for long periods of time and ? Pros? Cons? Thoughts?

I use the polytanks now for housing. Cut a hole and instant home. Cut out a hole in two-fasten together with nuts and bolts so the holes line up and a long house with another hole on one side for the doorway. I have them now set up for individual housing and also for my goats. They can be painted colors and a great way for kids to express themseles with a can or two of paint and could be forever flowers out there in the pasture as opposed to just a bunch of ugly white tanks sitting around.


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## ONG2 (Sep 22, 2010)

Farmerjohn, thanks for the info and the heads up. I like the idea of the polytank waterer. I would think it would be best to make sure the water is refreshed every 3 days or so. Don't want to get some bad bugs growing in the water.


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

Would it really matter if the water was changed?I mean yes-I want nice clean water for my hogs at all times but--would it last for a long enough time to get algea growing? Or what about the hogs we all have seen at times that are laying in mud wallows and etc. I know that they drink that water. 

I was thinking that maybe three to a tank and that the water would be supplied on demand to float valve waters. Just trying to come up with a good way to do it without having to redo later.


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## ONG2 (Sep 22, 2010)

Here is a link that discusses nipple waterers http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/livestock-forums/pigs/442578-homemade-pig-waterer-question.html

A fellow that I know drank some 5 day old water that had set out in the sun. He got the screen door screamers, but that was a fellow and probably would not hurt a pig.

I'll go do some goggling.


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

What brand and where are you getting the nipples that are adjustable?


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## Mare Owner (Feb 20, 2008)

To really be sure you are accurate in registering your litters, notch them the day they are born. Unless they both farrow at the same time, you should be able to notch at least one of the litters so you know who belongs to which sow.

I separate my sows that I raise the registered piglets out of so I can notch them at a few days to a week old, then they can go out in a common area or pasture. My hogs I raise for meat animals only I don't bother to separate and they mingle with eachother and the sows nurse everyone's piglets.

And it is best to separate your boars if you have more than one in with the sows. If you want to just watch their condition, you can keep a boar in with them and allow the girls to breed back as soon as they come in heat. Just keep an eye on them and plan to wean when her body is telling you it's time. Creep feeding the piglets can help the sow keep her weight better sometimes too (or it can make for very fat piglets!).


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## Creamers (Aug 3, 2010)

> They're basically free meat. For us, that trumps every other consideration.


 This is what friends of mine echo to me. . . hard to beat that, as far as I can see.


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## pancho (Oct 23, 2006)

I was looking back through some of my father's old papers. Came across some receipts where he sold some pigs in 1962.
Weaning age guinea pigs sold for $4.10 each. Weaning age hamps sold for $7 each.
A 151lb. guinea hog sold for $10.45. A 155lb hamp sold for $17.20


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## GoodNHappyFarm (Apr 26, 2012)

Interesting Pancho!! It's always neat to look back and see the differences between then & now


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## happydog (May 7, 2008)

I had a call out of the blue yesterday from a man looking to buy my AGH piglets. He has a small group that raises a batch of piglets every summer. He raved about the taste of heritage breed pigs and said once they'd tried heritage pigs they unanimously agreed they'd never go back to the standard York/Duroc that is so prevalent here.

Anyhow he wanted to buy all nine of my just weaned piglets at $125 apiece. Standard piglets around here go for around $50. I can live with that.


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

Hmm. Not to cause a stir Pancho, but I would be greatly interested in any info on the Guinea Hog sales in 1962. Located where and where at and etc. Not that there were not some per se out there and around. Our Association has records of the first ones located and taken "under wing" so to speak by the ALBC and a founder of the AGHA. So you can see I hope my interest in your records. The original breeding program started around 1995 or so. And I understand with limited numbers of only 35.


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## pancho (Oct 23, 2006)

We raised guinea hogs back in the 60s. The need for a lard hog had gone down and people were getting rid of any they had. We would always butcher one lard hog along with the other meat hogs. 
To sell ours we crossed them with hamps and sold the weaning pigs. When they came out looking like hamps they brought a better price than some other colors. We did have some wild colored guinea hogs.
The ones I have the sales receipt for went through the sale barn in Antlers, Oklahoma.
When the price dropped so low people would not even gather them to sell. Back then the range was open and people could run their hogs on any unfenced area. What guinea hogs that remained ungathered were bred into other meat breeds as time went on.
Back then guinea hogs were very common. Everyone had to have a lard hog and there wasn't any better than the guinea hog. Ours always had small litters. 4-5 pigs was common for them. Another reason for them becoming unpopular, the low birth rates. People could raise other hogs that had 8-10 babies, grew out much quicker, and brought more money.
Much like the mule foot hogs. There were some of them around then but they became mixed with meat breeds also.


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

My breeding girls usually have 8 or more in every litter. Of course some do not make it. The Association is int he econd set of genetic testing and so far there are several different lines identified. What would it take to get a copy of that bill of sale? Would love to put it with our records and maybe you could include some history with it? I currently have several weaned litters for sale.


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## stonefly71 (Apr 14, 2003)

Hi I have a Question about these pigs? How much does it cost to join AGHA and to register pigs if you have this kind? I was thinking about getting a breeding pair or 2? thanks Matt


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

The yearly dues is 20.00. When a litter is born it is registered within the first 90 days as a registered litter at 10.00. Then when an individual is sold there is a transfer fee to the new owner of 10.00 and a full registration fee of 20.00. It is maybe easier to not do the litter registration and save the 10.00 if you were just going to be raising as a meat hog. If not registered you cannot sell as a registered guinea hog to someone. And not all piglets of a litter are ones that should be registered due to issues of health.


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## stonefly71 (Apr 14, 2003)

Ok thank you for info


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## jbart02s (Jul 11, 2012)

farmerjohn; You said you currently have several weaned litters for sale
I am interested in a registered breeding boar

I have two registered gilts that are approaching 8 months and want to get them bred ASAP.

I am located in central IL

Thanks in advance and hope to hear from you soon

Joe


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## Raeven (Oct 11, 2011)

farmerjohn and others who are experienced with this breed: Since this is an education thread, I'm hoping some of you will be kind enough to share your expertise. My breeding girl is quite pregnant. She will probably litter sometime in mid-September, if my calculations are correct. So.... soon I will have a mess o' piglets.

What characteristics should I look for in determining which would be good breeding stock and which should head for the butcher? I know the runts are not good candidates for breeding stock, but... beyond that? If castration is recommended at 14 days, is there any way to tell at that age which would be good piglets to leave intact and which to cut?

Any and all guidance will be appreciated!


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## happydog (May 7, 2008)

I'd like to know that too. I have a large litter and mine look pretty much all the same. I'd like to castrate a couple and grow out for eating but I don't know which ones to choose.


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

Hi Guys,
Good news for you in the castration department. This breed of hog does not and I said DOES NOT need castrated! No boar taint. I have yet to castrate any and I currently have had 5 butchered. 

Sometimes there will be a hog grower or a customer that just insists that castration is done. There is no need for it in this breed. 

Right now, there is some "mild" on going discussion regarding whether to set confirmation standards or not for this breed. I think that this will become possibly more debateable later on down the road when all of the results are in for the genetic testing that the AGHA has been doing. We do know that there are several seperate lines in the AGHA. So- do we make or set up or draw up seperate confirmation standards for each line? If so-there would have to be alot of genetic testing done to show which line your hog/s were from and at your expense.

The other thought is that there should be no confirmation standards set as there is diversity of traits in these hogs.

Look for reaccourance of medical defects. There is a line that has a tendency to carry heart issues.

Seeming to be standard within different lines is white hair/patches. Not red/orange. That indicates a breeding line with other than AGHA.

The lines seem to be producing a combination of: short or long legs--short or long snout-short or long hair-curly hair or straight-short or long bodies.

We prefer that agressive behavior in the breed is culled out and not passed along in the lines as this hog is noted for being very docile.

I was told by a vet of large breed hogs to look for a tail high on the rump. Less delivery problems. My girls all have different tail positions. One had difficulity on the first littering. None of the others have. 

I have my own preferences to looks of a hog but that is just me. I do like that longer leaner look but with a short nose and hair. But--there is absolutely nothing wrong with any other combination. I personally do not make a decision on whether to cull or not until they are several months old. I leave the piglets with mom for about three months-looking them over and watching them interact and etc. Then if I am looking for one to add to my breeding stock I will then usually make a decision and then the rest are for sale or the meat locker. The piglets are weanable at around 4 weeks but I am a firm beliver in the need for a longer period and for more interaction with parents to ensure or instill more of the social learning they need. There is noting wrong in pulling at 4 weeks and selling but I do think that what we hear from the commercial enterprise of hog raising is not what this breed actually needs or should follow--like the castration issue.

And I am not a big proponet of getting rid of the runt. I think that thought came from the commercial line of things in that it takes a little longer for a runt to catch up to size. It does not mean that it cannot breed-does not have good meat-or is not a good parent. It usually means it costs more to look after it a little longer-to stay with mom a little longer on a teat or extra in feed. I have had several "runt" babies-mostly gilts-that hae gone on to be just gorgous and productive sows with good birth rates and no problems. 

And in closing-DO NOT CUT THE HOG. I ahve neer had boar taint. THere is a thought in the commercial end that is being looked at seriously. They are experimenting with feeds and are finding out that certain feeds are making the need for castration a moot point. Go look at Pig Progress.net.

I get this weekly and it is on the commercial and worldwide side of hog raising. I have learned alot there and at times quiet interesting reading as we can see what is happening to the hog industry on a commercial level and all of the problems they are rift with and the issues with disease and shots they have to do and that the raisers of the American Black Guinea Hog do not have to do. Good comparison to read.


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## happydog (May 7, 2008)

Thank you so much for posting this. Very interesting about the runt and very helpful overall. 

I haven't noticed any taint smell in my older breeding boars. Of course, I've only had 3...  One good thing about their smaller size. You can afford to experiment with not cutting and finding taint because it's a smaller pig - it's not like you're risking 200lbs of meat.

I'm only interested in castrating the boys I want to raise for butchering. Not because of taint but because my pigs all live together in their pasture and I don't want to risk one breeding his mother.

I like the fact that these pigs are generally kept by families. We will cull an aggressive or less docile pig in a heartbeat, simply because we won't risk our kids getting hurt. I always remind my pigs, "Be nice or be sausage. Personality matters."


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## bricned (Jul 3, 2006)

This is an interesting breed of hogs my Dad raised some back in 1940's. I wonder if there is any breeders within 200 miles of Central Louisiana. At 75 years of age I probably don't need them. I would like to buy a pair if I didn't 
have to drive to far. Does any one know of anyone that raises them in my 
area?


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## Dusky Beauty (Jan 4, 2012)

I'm also hunting for a breeder of AGH's in or near Arizona. I'd like to breed them for meat hogs on a small pasture and I bet they'd be popular in my area.


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## ONG2 (Sep 22, 2010)

bricned & Dusky Beauty both farmer john and I have piglets on the ground. We can send the hogs by airplane if you don't want to make the trip.


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## Raeven (Oct 11, 2011)

farmerjohn, I've been busy the past couple of days and missed your post. As happydog said, thank you, thank you, thank you! It's more guidance than I've found in many searches online! I really appreciate your taking the time to share your approach. And yes, very interesting about the runt. 

Like happydog, I'm not interested in castrating for any reason other than the fact that I'd rather not do all the fencing required to keep uncut boars separate from their mother.

One characteristic of the PNW breeds that I'd like to work to eliminate is a tendency for inverted nipples. Unfortunately, there appears to be no way to determine if this is a trait until a female has littered -- so it may be a tough one to eliminate. I was able to see that my sow does not have this undesirable characteristic. But because she comes from lines that do, it's possible her daughters will have the problem. I'm not in a position to breed all the daughters and then wait to see if the inverted nipple flaw turns up, so my plan is to sell them, state the issue up front and price accordingly on the condition that the new owner keep me advised. If enough of us are working to eliminate the trait, we should be able to do it.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your thoughts!


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## Menglish (May 7, 2009)

farmerjohn said:


> Hi Guys,
> Good news for you in the castration department. This breed of hog does not and I said DOES NOT need castrated! No boar taint. I have yet to castrate any and I currently have had 5 butchered.
> 
> Sometimes there will be a hog grower or a customer that just insists that castration is done. There is no need for it in this breed.
> ...


I hate to argue about something that is so often hashed out in this forum but...

I butchered an 8-9 month old intact boar last year. It most definitely had boar taint. I will say it wasn't horribly strong but it was definitely present. This boar was out of two registered animals from the AGHA and was bred on my premises. At the time there was no other breed of hog on the farm. 

I had butchered 2 or 3 other boars that did not have taint...all either full or half brothers to the above mentioned animal.


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## Dusky Beauty (Jan 4, 2012)

ONG2 said:


> bricned & Dusky Beauty both farmer john and I have piglets on the ground. We can send the hogs by airplane if you don't want to make the trip.


I'll definitely get back to you when we've got the new property stable enough to invest in a brand new breeding program over here. Backyard Homesteading is bigger in the Phoenix area than one would think-- I know the hogs would be very well received.

Edit: DH wants to know what kind of cost would be associated with a genetically diverse breeding pair (or trio? trio would probably better.)


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## olivehill (Aug 17, 2009)

So, Victoria, you've butchered a whopping three boars and you're ready to declare the entire landrace taint free despite increasingly common reports of taint within the breed as it becomes more popular? 

And you're raising 300 lb AGH boars with no lard? Got pictures?

My advice to those reading is to be skeptical. Very, very skeptical of a number of things purported herein.


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## pancho (Oct 23, 2006)

People who are trying to sell guinea hogs have some amazing results.
People who have raised then but do not have any to sell do not have quite the same amazing results.
Wonder why?


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## farmerjohn (Jun 11, 2010)

I would stand behind anything that I say or have said about this hog breed in the raising that I have done. I have raised them for over 7 years. I have had as many as 28 on this property. I currently have 23. I have 5 different lines in the boars and 4 dfferent lines in the sows all registered. 

I have butchered 5 boars not 3. So far, none have had boar taint. I have a 6th boar and maybe a 7th to butcher in Sept. A gentleman in NC has over 70 on his property and I have yet to hear him say he has boar taint and he is supplying three different restaurants with an average of 12-13 hogs a month. No reported boar taint. And Menglish is the first I have heard that has. 

And maybe Menglish's boar was different in some way. I know my 8-9 month olds are still relative small to butch for any quanity of meat. There is many factors that can affect any animal. Soil conditions, minerals, feed and breeding. I know that several have reported inter breeding with Kuno Kunos, mulefoots, big blacks and I am sure there have been other breeds mixed in at times over the years. Maybe that is showing up somewhere. I do not know that to be a fact other than what has been reported. As I cannot attest to the line genetics of what others have. I do know that I have talked to others that have unintentially cross bred and others that are intentionally cross breeding. I do not. The Guinea hog is the only hog on my farm. I am basically opposed to inter breeding of any animal, be it dogs, goats, hogs or what have you. That is just my opinion. I am sure that several of the other Heritage breeds are also very excellant animals to raise and breed. There are several local farms that are breeding other Heritage breeds and as they learn I am sure I will hear of issues they run across in their breeding program. 

Would I want to know about boar taint? Most definately. I would want to know the lines the hogs are coming from and many other factors associated with it. The Association of course would want all of the registered hogs to be part of and from the lines that have been identfied by the genetic testing. We have no control over those hogs that are cross bred but are reported as being a bred Guinea hog. It is unfortunate that people will cross breed and would sell as AGHA stock. I would think that the Association would want to know to check with other owners from those lines and to know what is going on with any known boar taint in that line or lines. 

And pictures? I would gladly post them if I could get them to post. Someone at one time was kind enough to post some goat pics for me so maybe they would be willing to do the same for me of my hogs. I do not feed a special type of feed and while I have read and discussed many different feeding regimes, I do not do so with my animals. I am particular that I do not feed restaurant foods of any kinds. Some do. Here we do have laws regarding the processing of such and that is just more than I feel I want to delve into. I feed cracked corn, a swine mash from the feed mill of a 16% mix, alfalfa hay, grass hay and pasture hay. When I can I feed watermelons, squash, tomatoes, eggs, goat milk, fruit and nuts. I feed no onions or cabbage. Mainly because my hogs do not like it and they do not seem to be carzy about pumpkins. Fresh corn, corn stalks, either fresh corn stalks or field corn stalks and straw are other feeds I use. 

As far as lard? Not enough lard from the last three I had butchered to even green process. That is something I have been wanting to do is to process some lard myself so that I can truly know what the process is and how it is done. I use lard in my cooking and baking. I have for many years. Slo Food and ALBC say that the Guinea hog lard is quiet pure and that chefs want it for restaurant cooking. Just repeating what they have printed. I am sure that if I feed differently I would have a lard hog. 

Can I speak openly and faithfully for my hogs that I have bred, raised, sold and butchered and what I have observed and learned with raising them? Most definately. I have to live with God and myself when night comes. Can I speak as faithfully and honestly for the 1200+ registerd hogs and their owners out there? Probably not. I can only go by the faith and honesty as to what I have been told and what has been told to the Association. I am sure that with any breed of any animal there is always some exceptions but from the data that we have and that has been reported, it is done in all honesty by me. I encourage all again, that this breed is an outstanding breed for many reasons. Do I need to sell them? No. Do I want to sell them? Yes. And all for the positive reasons I have stated before.

I have stated that there was evidence of a line that had heart problems. To what extent and exactly what in a Vet's terminalogy I do not know. I do know that in that line those hogs were destroyed to keep them out of the market. There is though in the birth of a hog a blood vessel that needs to close and disappear prior to birth in the heart or shortly thereafter birth and that it sometimes does not close and quit functioning. That does not always happen. So therefore a hog can be afflicted with that problem. But it is not the same as the heart problems that were in a specific line and erradicated. Just giving the info on the seriousness of the Association in their endevors to promote a good sound breed. And this was under the umbrella of ALBC. 

If people have problems such as boar taint and the inverted nipple issue, then it would of course be great that we get that feedback. It is something to be aware of, the lines that it is in and to track it. I have never had an inverted nipple in my hogs. My sows and boars all have either 12 or 14 teats. If a hog is born with less than these amounts, then they are culled. I may raise them for slaugher or I may give them to a family member to raise-which are far and few in numbers, but I do not breed them or sell them as registerd stock to anyone. No exception.

I also do not promote the red/orange coloring or the heavy Roan Blue coloring. I do have a line that throws some white shoulder markings. I do not sell them but I do breed them to keep track of what is happening in that line and their development as compared to others without it. 

I have of course heard of those who say they have Guinea Hogs but on further questioning are not sure exactly if they are but have been told that they are but cannot register them. Can I do anything about that? No probably not. There are many that probably do have Guinea hogs but for whatever reason have chosen not to register them and they may be fully registerable stock. And there are those that say they have Guinea hogs but the hog would not stand up to genetic testing to be called a Guinea Hog. It takes all kinds. This is also one of the reasons that I promote that the breed stay true so that in the dealings with others that the buyer is getting what they are told they are getting. Just my 2 cents. 

And I will still stand by all I have said about this breed until enough people do come forward and report issues that they have with the breed to the Association so that we may track it. And any of you may certainly do so. I might add that our web site is down for remodeling and to take care of some virus issues. You may use the following contact though:
Kevin Fall President, American Guinea Hog Association, Inc.
1830 P Avenue
Jefferson, IA 50129
(515) 370-1021


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## lrd3 (Jun 14, 2013)

great read...
i presently have 2 recently bred gilts. and one very handsome Boer. i am still not in possession of my girls registration papers. why does it take so long with agha?
i presently have a line in the watter for one or two registered sows. 
my two girls are presumed to be sisters at this point so i'm unable to produce breeding stock from my present group.
this thread has been fantastic read. some post i have had to read a few times to let it digest properly.. (im slow from time to time)
my hogs are on pasture behind electric and very social and gentle. we actually have them in an area were they are in regular contact with our chickens and have not lost any chickens to our hogs... actually quite the opposite. it appears the hogs keep the foxes and ***** at bay. (it could just be the electric though:happy2
these are our first agh..... last time we had hogs was 12+ years ago....


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