# Good place for training equip.



## Rock (Jan 5, 2009)

If you need dog equipment, this is a good place that stands behind their stuff, prices are not bad.
If your training a stronger bite, want your dog to catch and hold _(full mouth bite)_ want good neck protection for your LGD, I have used this stuff for years. 
I use multiple stages when teaching a dog all but the white ones are for pups/younger dogs
I bought a firehose tug from Kattie's Bumpers, that lasted all of 1 bite_ (they did give me my money back)_ The white ones in the pic last through continuous daily use by 4 or more dogs, hanging with the dogs full weight and power from a tree mounted springpole about 4-5months. 
I









http://www.fordogtrainers.com/


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## bender797 (Jan 15, 2013)

how do you get the dog to actually jump up and bite that thing? ive always wondered looks cool


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## Rock (Jan 5, 2009)

bender797 said:


> how do you get the dog to actually jump up and bite that thing? ive always wondered looks cool


 To get to this point, 
[ame]http://youtu.be/kd0X0UU3hww[/ame]

I use the program below. it is long so I have it broke into 3 steps

I have had so many people ask me over the years that I wrote it out.

*I am very much into compound training methods*​ ​ *PREY DRIVE-FLIRT STICK-SPRING POLE*
 *Materials*
Start with something they want to bite/chew, I use burlap, you may have to use a softer texture like linen, to get started depends on the dog.
_(They can feel the texture in their mouth and it is all new to them, so just find something they like)_ then as they get stronger, I move up to jute, then fire hose, then 10-12oz tool grade leather.
 Use the same material for all of the above, since they are used to it. _(no sense in reinventing the wheel if we donât need to)_
* Rat* _(material) _on string/rope, you can use the same 1 for all or have multiples.
*Flirt stick*, I use screw together chimney cleaning rods, they stash into a lawn chair bag for storage, or travel. You can use any stick that you can tie the end of the rope on.
* Spring pole*, I use a high tension fence spring _(after going through garage door springs)_ about 6-7 bucks at the tractor store. They donât stretch out they get tighter as the dog pulls, then relax when the dog lets go.
 If your going to use the same rat, hang the spring up, put a short length of strong rope through the bottom loop and put a carabineer on it. Locate this high off the ground, hands over head when you clip the rats cord to it, *that will keep it out of the dogs bite range*. 
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*AGE TO START*​  At 8 weeks you start with basic obedience, this is important because you can use each area to help you with others. _(As in you donât get to play with the toy till you do the command, all toys are mine, Iâm the Big Dog you play at my pleasure)_
 As soon as they will bite, I start with the prey drive.
*Week 1*​  Pull something they will bite in a STRAIGHT LINE past their face. When they get up and grab it, let go they won. They may shake it like mad run around with their little head held high for the world to see their prize.
Donât ever speak except the words I tell ya _(youâll see why shortly)_
 *Tell them good dog, pat on the head*, then out. 
 When you tell them out, hold their collar high up on the throat, loop a finger in it, take the object out of their mouth. Drop it right in front of them, _(donât yank it away and hide it, that will teach them to snatch) _Repeat the whole sequence again, little faster, little farther.
Iâll do this for 15 minutes, then we put the toy up and go take a pee break.
*Tell them good dog, pat on the head. *
Now I give them a treat and put them up, move to the next dog.

*Review what have we done?*​ 1 .Started prey drive training
2. Began teaching the out
3. Taught them it is target only when moving, this can work great into the catch and hold, hogs, people whatever. They donât have to tear it apart just catch it.
4. That training is fun, and makes the Alpha happy
5. Going to the bathroom when & where I tell them
6. Doing what they are told is rewarding
7. This is the hardest one, people learning to keep mouths shut. 

2 training sessions a day @ 15 minutes per session, 1 of Basic OB, and the 1 above. 
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*When you are happy with the progress of your dog in step 1*​ *we can move into step 2*​


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## Rock (Jan 5, 2009)

[ame]http://youtu.be/dx12idXu1Y8[/ame]*
Equipment*
*Flirt stick*
* CAUTION, straight line and large sweeping circle movements only* We don&#8217;t want to over stress any joints tendons or ligaments with quick direction changes. 

*Go word *_(we are going to use* seek* here in our example)_
 Your word can be whatever you want, but it should be something the dog is not going to hear except from you. Lot of K-9 cops use foreign language; I make up a word that I use only for this application which I know they will never mistakenly hear. This is going to be your command word for them to go into battle, PP work is built on the prey drive of the dog._ (This is why we don&#8217;t want to be doing all types of talking in step #1, don&#8217;t want to confuse the dog)_

 Take the same rat you were using in the prey drive, tie it on the end of your stick, have about 5-6&#8217; of line.
 Dog sitting by your left side on lead, rat on the ground in front of them. Hold the lead and Slowly move the rat away from them.
*Again, I can&#8217;t over stress this-CAUTION, straight line and large sweeping circle movements only*
 Now you may have to restrain them somewhat, because they will want to go. _An alternative is to hold them by hooking a finger through the collar, what ever is easiest for you_.
 Say *&#8220;SEEK, use your word&#8221; *let go of the lead, as soon as they grab the rat, let it go, drop the flirt stick, they have won.
*Tell them good dog, pat on the head, then out.*
* Repeat* *exercise*, always sit, always under control, always at your command. 
 The flirt stick will give you increased range and it teaches them to go after things moving away.
 When they have that exercise down pat _(the out is the hardest part with most dogs)_ we move to 2.B
 Dog at your side as before sitting on lead or collar hold, flop the rat out in front of you, the distance the stick and line will let it travel _(8-10&#8217; depending on what your using)_ tell the dog *&#8220;SEEK, use your word&#8221; *let them go.
 When they get the rat give it a light tug, then let them have it.
*Tell them good dog, pat on the head, then out*
 *Repeat* *exercise*, very very slowly increase the tug action. _(They have the back towards you so it is not a dominance issue)_ 
I&#8217;ll do this for 15 minutes, then we put the toy up and go take a pee break.
*Tell them good dog, pat on the head. *
Now I give them a treat and put them up, move to the next dog.

*Review what have we done?*​ 1. Building prey drive, to work on their own/going away from Alpha
2. Teaching them the trigger/go word
3. Go on the word, not just movement
4. We are building the idea of holding the bite through the struggle, not to let go of it in a struggle. 
5. Out on command. (it takes time)
6.That training is fun, rewarding, along with reinforcing the potty training (excited pups always got to pee)

2 training sessions a day @ 15 minutes per session, 1 of Basic OB, and the 1 above


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## Maura (Jun 6, 2004)

Your first video. Wish I'd done that with my border collie for tug of war. He about pulls my arm out of the socket he got so strong.


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## bender797 (Jan 15, 2013)

that looks pretty sweet, do you use yours for hogs?


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## Rock (Jan 5, 2009)

bender797 said:


> that looks pretty sweet, do you use yours for hogs?


at this time we are not "legally" permitted to hunt hogs with dogs in PA (On going thing with the Game Commission)
Buddy from Alabama posted up some fresh bacon pics. Using a bulldog as his catchdog.


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## Rock (Jan 5, 2009)

[ame]http://youtu.be/85LFSvP23h8[/ame]

I stay between 250 & 280lbs and yes they throw me on the ground at times, we just edit that out.


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Step # 3​ Moving to the spring pole.​ 
 *Equipment *
*Spring pole*, I use a high tension fence spring _(after going through garage door springs)_ about 6-7 bucks at the tractor store. They donât stretch out they get tighter as the dog pulls, then relax when the dog lets go.
 *Rat* _(material) _on string/rope

*Use the same rat,* you have been using up to this point, they are used to it, the texture the feel and the smell. (When you move to a stronger material because they are shredding it, just move all rats *for that dog* to the new material.)
 Caution, make the metal clip height out of the dogs bite range (this will change as the dog grows.)

Attach the spring to whatever your using as a cross bar to hang it from, think space, the dog will fly farther than you think. _Here is a tip that saves lots of time, especially if your training more than 1 dog on the same equipment. Tie a doubled 12â length of rope through the bottom eye of the hanging spring. Now every foot down from the knot, make an overhand loop and pull tight. then repeat down from that knot etc. By using a carabineer on the rope tied to the rat, you can change heights in seconds, just unclip and hook where you need it._
*We want our first setup laying on the ground*, just like the rat had been tossed out there with the flirt stick. (You can hold it and gravity will take it away from you to the ground out front.)
* When do you move to the spring pole? What age??*
This is going to depend on the dog, when they have taken to yanking real good in step 2. As in âwow that hurt my elbow, wrist or shoulder jointâ that is a good sign it is time to move up.
 Take dog tight lead, sit at side and flop the rat out there âSEEK *use your go wordâ*
Dog should get right on it. Bite and start to yank at it, now you run over there
*Tell them good dog, pat on the head, then out*
 (only say it once, *no other words*, them make them let it go, of course we have a reason)
*Repeat* *exercise*
Iâll do this for 15 minutes, then we put the toy up and go take a pee break.
*Tell them good dog, pat on the head. *
Now I give them a treat and put them up, move to the next dog.
*Review what have we done?*​ 1. Continue Building prey drive, to work on their own
2. reinforce the trigger/go word
3. Go on the word, not just movement
4. building the bite hold 
5. Out on command. (it takes time)
6. That training is fun, rewarding, 

2 training sessions a day @ 15 minutes per session, 1 of Basic OB, and the 1 above


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## bender797 (Jan 15, 2013)

man i bet one of them dogs would make a hell of a catch dog, they look pretty intense, what do you do once you have them trained past the third stage? just keep improving their bite and basic obedience? what age are they when you advance them stages on average?


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## Rock (Jan 5, 2009)

bender797 said:


> man i bet one of them dogs would make a hell of a catch dog, they look pretty intense, what do you do once you have them trained past the third stage? just keep improving their bite and basic obedience? what age are they when you advance them stages on average?


 Yes the guy in Bama is using 1/2 sister to dogs, in vid _(same dad different mom) _yeah bulldog determination is one of the traits that I use/shape in my dogs.

Once I get the 3rd stage down I work to make a stronger bite better hold. Then it depends on what I'm using the dog to do, I'll work personal, object and area protection, weight pull training, conformation/show ring etc.


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## bender797 (Jan 15, 2013)

so how do you train object and area protection? haha hope i aint pestering you


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## Rock (Jan 5, 2009)

bender797 said:


> so how do you train object and area protection? haha hope i aint pestering you


 Ya hire a dog trainer like me, or join you local dog training club, put the time in and become one:goodjob:.


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## bender797 (Jan 15, 2013)

hahaha gotcha


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