# Discouraged about colony raising of rabbits



## ejwallace (Jul 11, 2010)

Hello,
I am new to this group, and happy to find so much valuable information. I am getting some meat rabbits soon, and had wanted to try colony raising (3 does and a buck). Reading through the threads has me somewhat discouraged of this method though, as it seems like the threat of disease might make this prohibitive according to some. I would like to hear from anyone who is raising meat rabbits colony style, and what you have learned works and does not work. We have several acres, so I could have (fenced) outdoor access for them as well, or simply have a communal set-up in our large barn. What are the pros and cons of them being able to burrow outside, vs. contain-ability of a concrete barn floor, etc.?
Thanks for the help!


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## MaggieJ (Feb 6, 2006)

I don't have a colony at present, but Turtlehead, Macybaby and Chickenista all have posted wonderful information about their colonies from time to time.

Disease can be a problem, but RATS and other predators are likely to be more of problem, IMO. Give thought to how you will handle predators before you build your colony. If you are new to rabbits altogether, you may want to raise them in cages for awhile until you gain experience. Or build a large pen in the barn, using hardware cloth to keep the predators out.


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## SquashNut (Sep 25, 2005)

In my area you can get coccidiosis in the rabbits if they are not kept clean. This is in their liver and can cause unthrifty rabbits and often death in smaller rabbits.
Good wire cages made with profesional wire, that are easy to clean is a must.
I often bleach my cages and give them time to sit between uses to break parasite cycles. As not all parasites can be killed with bleach even.
For me it is better to bring fresh feed to the rabbits and set large amounts on top of the cages.


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

I live in an area with too high of a water table to allow for burrowing. I had lots of plans on how to contain the rabbits and all - but after three years in a row with heavy spring rains, I realized it would never work for that reason.

So mine are inside on a cement floor. I can control the nest areas and can easily check on newborns. I made longer nest boxes (3' long) so they are more like tunnels.

I've found the rabbits will clear off a spot on the cement to lay on to help keep themselves cool. I also put frozen gallon water jugs if it's going to be in the 90's - but right now I'm not sure if they really need that as when I check on them, none are near the jug anyway.

Being on the cement, it's real easy to clean. So far I've not had deseise problems, but I've only had rabbits for about 20 months. 

Right now I keep the buck seperate from the doe, in a pen that is about 5x4. My pens are set up so they are cat proof as the cats have access to the building to keep the rodent population down. I can walk in them to clean and check on things.

I have four main pens, and next year want to have two does in each big pen (four does total) . I had problems with uncontrolled breeding, and I don't need as many rabbits as one buck and two does can produce in a season. So now I control when the breeding takes place. Having them seperate also means I can try to have the doe pairs kiddle at the same time. I also had that problem in the other comunal setting - does interefering with other's kits when they didn't have thier own to deal with at the same time.

If you do searching on my older posts, I have lots of pictures of how I build the pens last fall. 

Cathy


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## Macybaby (Jun 16, 2006)

I went and looked for the post - I have more posts than I thought!

Here is one showing the indoor pens after they were finished. They are modular, so I can rearrange the panel sections if I want to change the size of the pens.

Cathy

New Pen Setup


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## ejwallace (Jul 11, 2010)

Thanks so much for the replies. Every one of them helps me get a better picture of the pros and cons on colony raising. I think I will in fact try a colony, but have it in a large concrete area, like Macybaby, that I have in my barn. It was built with a drain trench on one side, which will help facilitate cleaning, and it is a good sized area. It locks up pretty secure at night, so I think my biggest predator concern may be the barn cat during the day. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
I will have to search the posts and see what info there is on making nesting tunnels on concrete--I have seen it referenced on a few posts. 
We have in fact raised mini-rex for several years (kids in 4-H and a little open showing), so we are not new to rabbits, but definitely new to colony raising, and to meat rabbits. We got out of mini-rex last year, I sold all of our equipment, then lo and behold decided I wanted organic rabbit meat. Now I wish I had my equipment back!
Thanks so much for the replies, and I am sure I will be picking your brains often.


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## MaggieJ (Feb 6, 2006)

Glad you have previous rabbit experience, EJ. Jumping into colony raising on natural feeds would be a very steep learning curve without it. Get everything in place before you get your rabbits. Young stock will adjust more easily to communal living. If you are keeping the buck with the does, put him in the colony first so that the does will not be territorial towards him. They will feel as though they are on his turf. 

Your rabbits will more than likely be pellet-fed when you get them. Make a long, slow transition to natural feed. Add hay and small amounts of greens and work it up from there. A little later, start top-dressing their pellets with a sprinkle of grain. As the greens and hay consumption increase and they gradually accept grain as food,  they will likely begin to lose interest in the pellets. Taper them off slowly. Remember that they will not be eating anywhere near as much grain as they do pellets, since much of their food by then will be hay and greens. I typically take about 6 - 8 weeks to fully transition a rabbit when I buy one that has been raised on pellets.


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## ejwallace (Jul 11, 2010)

Maggie J, thanks for this info on transitioning. We are getting the rabbits today, so great timing! I was taking a guess at how to transition, so your description and timeline gives me a lot more confidence. I think I would have done it too quickly. When we were raising mini-rex, they were always on pellets and a little hay, and in hanging cages, so this is an adventure.
I appreciate the details, rather than just broad strokes.


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## MaggieJ (Feb 6, 2006)

You're very welcome. It might be possible to go faster than I have described. I figured a slow transition was easier on the rabbits and gave me less to worry about.


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## viper125 (Nov 19, 2013)

We raise layers for eggs in a 15 x 15 inside coup. Concrete floor and straw on top with a daytime outside run.
This year adding another large pen next to it. For meat chickens. Again on the floor and straw bedding.
Id like to add rabbits to. Thinking since their for meat starting with one buck and two does. Been reading that Californians and new zealands may work best. Not sure what buck or doe to get. Which breed for stud and which for does. Or do i want papers? Thinking selling 4 h rabbits too. 
Don't like the idea of many cages and thinking doing the same for rabbits as chickens. We clean quite often. As we prefer it don't get stinking bad or even to have them laying in it.
I like the colony idea and wonder why many don't seem to. I've heard disease hinted to. Which ones and why. With the building having concrete and staying dry it has been so much easier to keep clean.
Im really interested in this because of producing our own meat.


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