# Wood Fence Posts on Metal Pins?



## AKacres (Oct 28, 2013)

This has probably been mentioned or discussed somewhere before, but I couldn't find it so I'm asking.
Would it work to drive lengths of metal (pipe or rebar, 1 or 2" dia) into the ground, say 3 or 4 feet deep, leaving about 6" sticking out above ground, drill corresponding hole in each wood fence post, and set the posts on the metal?
The only wood we have here is spruce, not ideal for fence posts as far as rot resistance. However if it wasn't in contact with the soil, it would hopefully last a bit longer. I'm not going to be stringing wire on them, rather putting up wood rails...so not talking about posts needing to endure massive tension. Our soil is totally rockless so driving anything into it is easy.
I have contacted every rental company in the area, and none of them have or even know about the wood fence post driver attachment for skid steers. The options therefore are ye olde post-hole digger or renting an auger, drilling each hole, setting the posts, tamping the dirt around, etc. It would be so much easier and faster to drive rebar and set the wood posts on top. Also if the wood posts weren't buried 3 feet, they could be that much shorter (easier to handle). Also I could just treat the one little end of the post rather than a big portion of it as I would have to if burying it. I'm a woman working alone so ease of construction is a major consideration. 
However I worry that the wood posts will act as levers to pry the metal out of the ground, or at least wiggle it a lot, maybe even with someone just leaning against it or a cow scratching on it. This will be keeping large livestock in so I do need a sturdy fence.
Do you think this idea would work? Has anybody tried this or seen it done? Comments, advice, wisdom please...thank you!


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> Do you think this idea would work?


No, because it wouldn't be sturdy at all
A wooden fence for large animals will have to be strong enough to withstand them pushing or leaning on it.

If you let the metal extend at least 3 feet from the surface it would be better, but still not as strong as a wood post in the ground

If you could use electric fencing instead, you wouldn't need the strength


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

Bad idea, will not be very strong.


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## Bret (Oct 3, 2003)

I have a HT electric fence on a high accident curve on a state road. I have to replace or repair sections of the fence often. I fashioned two four foot posts from broken posts that have rebar on the bottom so I can push them down into the ground for quick repairs. They are in line with other posts and on a level stretch. I stagger four plastic insulators that help to hold the posts in place in line with the four HT wires. They look like all other posts, and are easy to set back up when another vehicle goes through the fence. Coiling up or cutting HT wire that has to be replaced is the hardest. I could not build an entire fence this way but it works for this trouble spot. I cannot push them into frozen earth. I probably could hammer rebar into frozen earth and push the post onto it after. I'll remember this thought.


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## chuckhole (Mar 2, 2006)

That is a very expensive and labor intensive proposition - setting the metal sections and drilling all of the holes. The 3'-4' sections of metal are going to cost as much as just using T-posts by themselves. Plus you have the added expensive of the wood post which costs more than a T-post. You would do well to stick with treated wood posts only to build a rail fence or change to a wire fence with T-posts spaced 8' apart and a wood post for every 6 T-posts.

Field fence and barbed wire fencing are much less expensive than a wood rail fence even if you use the much less expensive "corral boards". Either way, sinking the wood posts would be much more stable and much less expensive. If you have access to a tractor with an auger, a 6" auger does a great job in that kind of soil. A hand powered post hole digger is almost as effective as the gas powered one portable augers. Once you sink/stick one of those things, they are hard to get out of the ground. You would need a tripod with a lift hoist.


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## MNBobcat (Feb 4, 2011)

AKacres said:


> This has probably been mentioned or discussed somewhere before, but I couldn't find it so I'm asking.
> Would it work to drive lengths of metal (pipe or rebar, 1 or 2" dia) into the ground, say 3 or 4 feet deep, leaving about 6" sticking out above ground, drill corresponding hole in each wood fence post, and set the posts on the metal?
> The only wood we have here is spruce, not ideal for fence posts as far as rot resistance. However if it wasn't in contact with the soil, it would hopefully last a bit longer. I'm not going to be stringing wire on them, rather putting up wood rails...so not talking about posts needing to endure massive tension. Our soil is totally rockless so driving anything into it is easy.
> I have contacted every rental company in the area, and none of them have or even know about the wood fence post driver attachment for skid steers. The options therefore are ye olde post-hole digger or renting an auger, drilling each hole, setting the posts, tamping the dirt around, etc. It would be so much easier and faster to drive rebar and set the wood posts on top. Also if the wood posts weren't buried 3 feet, they could be that much shorter (easier to handle). Also I could just treat the one little end of the post rather than a big portion of it as I would have to if burying it. I'm a woman working alone so ease of construction is a major consideration.
> ...


I just fenced 6 acres with 16 foot and 14 foot treated posts set with 10 feet sticking out of the ground. I used a $9,000 post pounder I bought for the project. But I'll always be pounding posts for our vineyard and the investment made sense.

In your case, I can tell you the idea won't work. Don't mean to shoot it down but it won't work. Those posts need to be set in the ground. My recommendation is to buy treated posts and do it right so that it lasts. Rent a 2-man gas powered auger or an auger on a skid steer and drill the holes, set the posts and back-fill.


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## ihuntgsps (Mar 10, 2008)

I have seen people build forms and make concrete fence posts with staple/rings for the wires. Usually have rebar in the core. 

Over 1 mile of fencing behind my house is done this way and has lasted 60-80 yrs depending on which farmer you ask. 

I never researched the cost because it is fairly cheap and easy for me to dig post holes and bury round treated wood posts for all my fence needs.


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## chuckhole (Mar 2, 2006)

ihuntgsps said:


> I have seen people build forms and make concrete fence posts with staple/rings for the wires. Usually have rebar in the core.
> 
> Over 1 mile of fencing behind my house is done this way and has lasted 60-80 yrs depending on which farmer you ask.
> 
> I never researched the cost because it is fairly cheap and easy for me to dig post holes and bury round treated wood posts for all my fence needs.


I saw quite a few fences like this in the Scottish Highlands near Aberdeen..........the ones that weren't made of stone from the fields.


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## AKacres (Oct 28, 2013)

Well, thanks for the advice!! I really appreciate it...much less expensive to ask here and learn rather than go ahead and find out the hard way.
So I guess I'll go cut some long fence posts...
Thanks again to everybody who replied!


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## texican (Oct 4, 2003)

Does metal pipe grow in your neck of the woods in AK? Joking.... of course.

No, it doesn't..... why not just buy cheaper t-posts and drive them in.... or, if you have massive amounts of pipe, simply cut them into 8' pieces and drive them in 3'. As far as driving them in...simply put the bucket of the skidsteer on the pipe and push down.... we do that here, with tposts and front end loader buckets....


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## solar (Feb 11, 2010)

The local rental yard here rents air powered hand held pounders. You can buy them too, They take about 30 CFM.


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

I've seen farmer around here using cylinders made from fencing that were filled with rocks. They used them on corner and in long runs.

You might try soaking the bottom couple of feet of the spruce posts in old oil or lightly burn them in a fire.


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

Wood fence posts rot at ground level. So, if your fence posts are three feet in the ground, slop some tar and used engine oil around each post, between the 2 1/2 and 3 1/2 footmark on the bottom of the post. RR ties seem to rot off as quick or quicker than white cedar posts.


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