# new tankless water won't work



## Sparticle (Nov 1, 2004)

We have a tankless water heater that was just installed. Can't get it to fire up. I know its getting gas. I've even tried 3 different propane pressure regulators. I know its getting water and good water pressure. Using a Shurflo RV type pump with a big fat pressure tank. Even tried it without the pressure tank, I went directly from the pump to the water heater. The igniter clicks and clicks but it just won't fire up. Its like there is no gas but I've bled the line at the tank and I'm sure there is gas reaching the water heater. Any and all ideas would be appreciated.


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## Bentley (Jul 10, 2008)

After we completed our home, and were ready to lite the pilot on the water heater, I was surprised how long it took to purge the gas lines. I spent 32 years handling high pressure gas in 36" pipe, where we could purge a ten mile section in 30 minutes +/-, depending on the size and configuration of the vent valve.

Purging a hundred feet at 4 oz of pressure took a good 10 minutes. (I don't remember exactly since it's been two years ago.)

Anyway, I guess my point is; do you know that you have gas at the heater inlet? Just because you have pressure doesn't mean it's a combustible gas. 

Once you are certain the system is purged, then the control system should let gas through to the igniter.

B


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## Sparticle (Nov 1, 2004)

I'm pretty sure I bled it long enough. The tank is right outside the wall that the water heater is hanging on. There's probably 10 feet of line. I bleed the line until I smell gas ten tighten it up. I let it go for about 10 seconds. Is that enough?


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

What type of regulators and what does the manual for the heater say as for the regulator setting?


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## SteveO (Apr 14, 2009)

is it set for propane or was it set for NG there are different orfice sizes for each.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> The igniter clicks and clicks but it just won't fire up


Can you see if it's actually making a spark?


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## chrisl (Jan 20, 2006)

What brand of heater is it? What is your water pressure? Does the draft blower/exhaust blower come on? What is the BTU rating of the heater?
Chris


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## Sparticle (Nov 1, 2004)

Yep, I can see it spark. Yep, it is built for LPG. Its 88,000 BTU. There is no exhaust blower. I've got the water pressure at 43. The manual says to use 1.2m3/h pressure reducer. None of the regulators I have tried says anything about that. I have tried a high pressure regulator, a low pressure regulator and a 2 stage regulator. I even tried one of those big fat regulators from a 500 gallon tank. I'm starting to think the water heater is bad. The brand is Alaska. I found it on eBay.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Water pressure would be fine...do you have other gas appliances that are running off of a large LP tank? The regulator on the tank will be @ 10psi maybe, then you have a secondary regulator that will reduce that down to.....according to the hot water heater specs you would be @ 2800 Pa which would convert to about 11''WC. (water column).


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## Charleen (May 12, 2002)

We had trouble when a spider laid her egg sack on the ignitor. Click, Click but wouldn't catch.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

Have you tried to light it with a match?
It sounds to me like it's not getting enough gas to the burner.

It takes VERY little to be able to smell it


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## chrisl (Jan 20, 2006)

I looked at the spec for this heater. If you can get your money back you would be better off. Basically this heater is same as a run of the mill home depot LP cheap tank heater. I'm a license plumber and I sell and install all different types of commercial and residential water heaters including tankless water heaters. 

A true high efficient tankless heater will have a combustion/exhaust blower and will bring combustion air in from the outside of the home. It has to have a pressurized combustion chamber to be able to burn the fuel and then force that energy through an elaborate heat exchanger. When the combustion gases exit the heater all the heat energy or nearly all should be transferred to the water it is heating. This Alaska heater appears to not have this, it looks to me as if it is just an atmospheric vent heater.

A quality tankless heater will have a modulating burner, and will control not only BTU output but also GPM output of the water. When the incoming water is 54 Deg is has to go through the heater slower to get 66 deg of rise it needs to make 120 deg water.

There are several good brands out there. Rinnai and State are my favorite. I like the new State tankless because you don't need a special flue like you do for the Rinnai, simply two PVC pipe. The Rinnai flue is made of PVC but its a concentric flue specially made for the unit.

As far as electric, they are joke. Everyone assumes that electric is 100% efficient. On the contrary the are less efficient than a standard gas heater. And in areas north of the Mason Dixon line the AMP requirements are so great that some people have had to add an additional 200 amp service to their existing power. 

Hope this helps. if you are stuck with this heater, please for safety sake hire an competent plumber, water heaters can be dangerous.

Chris


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## Sparticle (Nov 1, 2004)

The folks I bought the water heater from are sending another one. We think its a dud. He's sold many, many of these and has problems with 2 of them. I've tried everything they suggested to no avail. Another on is on the way.


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