# Question about electrical wiring



## Acer Rubrum (Nov 23, 2011)

What gauge / size of underground buried wire should I use going from the meter pole to a 60 amp breaker box inside an outbuilding? It will be buried with conduit.
Thanks in advance for your help.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

What's the distance from the pole to the shed?


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## DaveNay (Nov 25, 2012)

What is the total length of wire run? Including down the utility pole, into the ground, distance under ground, up the side of the house, into the house and to the breaker box?


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## Acer Rubrum (Nov 23, 2011)

A total of 90 feet.


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## DaveNay (Nov 25, 2012)

Acer Rubrum said:


> A total of 90 feet.


At that short of a run, you usually don't need to worry about voltage drop. My personal choice would be 4ga wire.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

the added cost of the heavier wire isn't nearly the cost of digging that trench again size for a 200 amp service


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Acer Rubrum said:


> What gauge / size of underground buried wire should I use going from the meter pole to a 60 amp breaker box inside an outbuilding? It will be buried with conduit.
> Thanks in advance for your help.


I would put 2/0 service cable in 2" conduit and upgrade to a minimum 100 amp main panel....or 4/0 and 200 amp if you have that need in the future. However...if you stay with the 60 amp you will find service cable about half price of copper.


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## Ozarka (Apr 15, 2007)

What is the intended maximum load in the structure that you determined the need for 60 amps from?


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## Riverdale (Jan 20, 2008)

I would also run a string trough the conduit, just in case you want to pull bigger wire through.


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## Acer Rubrum (Nov 23, 2011)

The outbuilding will not require any 220 outlets; just ordinary 110 receptacles for things like wet/dry vacs and 2 small space heaters. There will be light fixtures for 150 watt bulbs. There will also be a 110 window unit AC running at times and a box fan.

I told the guy at Lowes that I wanted to buy a 60 amp box, but he told me that I should just go ahead and get a 100 amp breaker box, and so I did. 

He also sold me 5 breakers, 20 amp each.

He said that the wire he recommended was the same as 4 gauge wire, so I bought that. It is 4 strands of wire wrapped separately, and he said it is 2-2-2-4 or 4-4-4-2, but I forgot the number sequence already. I believe it is aluminum instead of copper. It seems to be something that they sell alot of, because it came off a big wooden spool sitting in the aisle, with another identical spool sitting beside it. It was green and black.

From this vague description (sorry, it's not near me right now to look at it better) do you think I purchased the right thing?

And I am curious what to do with the 4th wire... I have seen plenty of 3 wire cables- one positive, one negative, and one ground... but what is the 4th wire for? Thank you for all your comments and help.


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## Acer Rubrum (Nov 23, 2011)

PS, I also purchased 2 and 1/2 inch conduit to bury the wire in.


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## Robotron (Mar 25, 2012)

Is this wire coming direct from the pole or from another panel? Also you should get two 8' ground rods and some bare 6 gauge copper solid wire for the ground rods. Also what are the ul markings on the wire? Some types can not enter the structure and must be spliced outside.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

If you come from the meter base...you will pull 3 wires...two hot and a neutral...you will run a #4 solid copper from your neutral in the panel to your ground rod...you will bond neutral and grounds together in your panel by the green screw provided with the panel...since you stated you are running from the meter base...the other way that requires 4 wires does not apply.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Acer Rubrum said:


> The outbuilding will not require any 220 outlets; just ordinary 110 receptacles for things like wet/dry vacs and 2 small space heaters. There will be light fixtures for 150 watt bulbs. There will also be a 110 window unit AC running at times and a box fan.
> 
> I told the guy at Lowes that I wanted to buy a 60 amp box, but he told me that I should just go ahead and get a 100 amp breaker box, and so I did.
> 
> ...


Should be 2/2/2/4...4/0 is 200 amp.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Acer Rubrum said:


> The outbuilding will not require any 220 outlets; just ordinary 110 receptacles for things like wet/dry vacs and 2 small space heaters. There will be light fixtures for 150 watt bulbs. There will also be a 110 window unit AC running at times and a box fan.
> 
> I told the guy at Lowes that I wanted to buy a 60 amp box, but he told me that I should just go ahead and get a 100 amp breaker box, and so I did.
> 
> ...


The fourth wife is only for wiring from a subpanel...ground goes back to the main...then neutral and grounds are isolated in a sub panel...different set up. No ground rod in this situation.


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## 1948CaseVAI (May 12, 2014)

Acer Rubrum said:


> The outbuilding will not require any 220 outlets; just ordinary 110 receptacles for things like wet/dry vacs and 2 small space heaters. There will be light fixtures for 150 watt bulbs. There will also be a 110 window unit AC running at times and a box fan.
> 
> I told the guy at Lowes that I wanted to buy a 60 amp box, but he told me that I should just go ahead and get a 100 amp breaker box, and so I did.
> 
> ...


This stuff is all critically important for your safety, and the safety of your family and other people who may be present. 

If you are thinking you will have a positive wire, a negative wire, and a ground I cannot urge you strong enough to get a licensed electrician before you do one more thing!!!! Please!

Also, you may jeopardize any fire insurance you have in force on the property. In case of a fire you may discover that your insurance is void.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

1948CaseVAI said:


> This stuff is all critically important for your safety, and the safety of your family and other people who may be present.
> 
> If you are thinking you will have a positive wire, a negative wire, and a ground I cannot urge you strong enough to get a licensed electrician before you do one more thing!!!! Please!
> 
> Also, you may jeopardize any fire insurance you have in force on the property. In case of a fire you may discover that your insurance is void.


Hot..neutral..and ground...apply to 120 v only.


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## Acer Rubrum (Nov 23, 2011)

Thanks, all.

I am not going to be doing the work myself; my neighbor who is a retired electrician will be doing the work but he is recovering from knee surgery at the moment and can't even leave his house. So while he recovers, I am trying to purchase all the materials needed, and try to learn a little bit about the whole process while I am at it. This looks like a good opportunity to learn something I didn't know before- gotta start somewhere. : )

Thank you again, I appreciate all the help and advice!

(Yes, it's coming from the pole, not a subpanel.)


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## SamT (Dec 27, 2015)

Acer Rubrum said:


> Thanks, all.
> 
> (Yes, it's coming from the pole, not a subpanel.)


That is only true if you have a meter at the outbuilding. You should be saying that it is coming from the meter.

I know, the meter is at the pole, but electricity is so dangerous in so many ways that your verbiage must be painstakingly accurate.

You done good buying what you need. Now, it's all up to the Electrician.


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## Robotron (Mar 25, 2012)

He requires no ground rod at his panel?
Interesting, code requires it but as we all have seen here code is only for fools. 
So I can cut the ground rod connection here and it's all ok?
If you can't give the proper advice please, please don't advise as people are reading this stuff. Somebody will get hurt. He needs to get the code book and read it. You should too!


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Robotron said:


> He requires no ground rod at his panel?
> Interesting, code requires it but as we all have seen here code is only for fools.
> So I can cut the ground rod connection here and it's all ok?
> If you can't give the proper advice please, please don't advise as people are reading this stuff. Somebody will get hurt. He needs to get the code book and read it. You should too!


I don't need to read code...I just laid out the code in black and white. If you don't know NEC...don't comment. I provided two different ways depending upon the power source...that's the facts.


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## Robotron (Mar 25, 2012)

So this is wrong and you are right. Do want you want on yours but don't advise others on procedures.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Robotron said:


> So this is wrong and you are right. Do want you want on yours but don't advise others on procedures.





elevenpoint said:


> If you come from the meter base...you will pull 3 wires...two hot and a neutral...you will run a #4 solid copper from your neutral in the panel to your ground rod...you will bond neutral and grounds together in your panel by the green screw provided with the panel...since you stated you are running from the meter base...the other way that requires 4 wires does not apply.





elevenpoint said:


> The fourth wife is only for wiring from a subpanel...ground goes back to the main...then neutral and grounds are isolated in a sub panel...different set up. No ground rod in this situation.


Exactly what I stated.


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## SamT (Dec 27, 2015)

This is for a farm. No specific electrical connection advice other than from a qualified Electrician on site should be given or followed.

The earth itself can have enough difference in potential at different locations to cause distress unless the earth itself at those locations are all bonded together.

What can happen is that the electrical equipment case at one location is at a different voltage than the soil where the equipment is located because the equipment is "Grounded" at a different location. Bzzzzt!

IIRC the article correctly, cattle stopped drinking shortly after a new plastic water line and plastic stock tank was installed. The entire electrical grid at the facility was only grounded at the pole. After a lot of head scratching, and a barefoot boy dipping a metal bucket into the trough to water the stock, they installed a ground rod at many locations, including the brass valve at the stock tank..


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## whymanwhy (Dec 1, 2020)

I am placing a mobile home to my property and my service pole is approximately 150' from the connection to panel, I 'm using conduit underground at 24" deep I was told to use # 2 AWG tray for copper is that about right? I will have a pro hook it all up I just need to make sure I'm laying the proper size wire before He get's there.


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## weaselfire (Feb 7, 2018)

whymanwhy said:


> I am placing a mobile home to my property and my service pole is approximately 150' from the connection to panel, I 'm using conduit underground at 24" deep I was told to use # 2 AWG tray for copper is that about right? I will have a pro hook it all up I just need to make sure I'm laying the proper size wire before He get's there.


Check your local electric codes (many just use the NEC with amendments). They specifically mention wire size and type for distance as well as burial depth, size of conduit, etc. Remember, you only run from the meter to house, power company handles up to and including the meter.

Next time, start a new post instead of reviving a dead thread.

Jeff


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## The Paw (May 19, 2006)

whymanwhy said:


> I am placing a mobile home to my property and my service pole is approximately 150' from the connection to panel, I 'm using conduit underground at 24" deep I was told to use # 2 AWG tray for copper is that about right? I will have a pro hook it all up I just need to make sure I'm laying the proper size wire before He get's there.


If you are having a professional electrician hook it up, then I would call the professional electrician and ask him. He will know code, and he will tell you what he needs to make an approved run and connection. Nothing would be worse than following internet advice and then having your electrician show up and tell you that you got it wrong.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

The Paw said:


> If you are having a professional electrician hook it up, then I would call the professional electrician and ask him. He will know code, and he will tell you what he needs to make an approved run and connection.


Professional electricians do not always know or follow the NEC. Hubby often is the one that has to fix what the "professionals" installed.

You can buy the NEC book or borrow it from the library. It might be available online too.


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## The Paw (May 19, 2006)

Danaus29 said:


> Professional electricians do not always know or follow the NEC. Hubby often is the one that has to fix what the "professionals" installed.
> 
> You can buy the NEC book or borrow it from the library. It might be available online too.


I hear you. That's why I pull a permit and go through the inspection, or hire an electrician who pulls a permit. I know that's seen as crazy talk on this forum, cause Big Guberment gonna get us, but it seems a heck of a lot safer than internet advice from random strangers, or interpreting the NEC on my own.


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