# any top bar users?



## Farmerwilly2 (Oct 14, 2006)

Has anyone here used top bar hives as well as standard langstroth hives? I've set wood aside to build some of the top bar for next year and I'm curious as to how well they recover when harvested as well as yield. Seems like the standard frame can be run through an extractor and leave you a drawn frame, kind of handy. Seems like the natural comb from a top bar would yield a lot of wax, require a lot of straining and require more work from the hive to replace.


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## justgojumpit (May 5, 2003)

The bees actually draw natural comb faster than they draw out foundation, but it is true that once the bees have drawn comb, extracting and replacing the comb yields more honey. If you're looking to do this as a hobby and are not concerned about being standardized with other beekeepers, the top bar hive is the cheaper way to get going. Your honey yields would be lower per hive, but probably higher per dollar invested. The honey yields would also be lower per hour invested. I guess it all depends if you're looking to maximize honey per hive, honey per dollar, or honey per unit of labor. Which is worth the most to you?

justgojumpit


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## Farmerwilly2 (Oct 14, 2006)

I have the lumber and do build my own standard hives. It would be the same for the tops. I'd call it a hobby at this point, with potential benefits. I'm hoping to harvest my main honey from standard hives. I was interested in the top bar more for the wax or bees they can provide, the honey would just be a bonus.


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## Michael Bush (Oct 26, 2008)

>Has anyone here used top bar hives as well as standard langstroth hives?

Yes.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm

> I've set wood aside to build some of the top bar for next year and I'm curious as to how well they recover when harvested as well as yield.

Same as raising any cut comb in any hive.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesharvest.htm

> Seems like the standard frame can be run through an extractor and leave you a drawn frame, kind of handy. Seems like the natural comb from a top bar would yield a lot of wax, require a lot of straining and require more work from the hive to replace.

It is more work for the hive to make wax, but it's just work. The bees will work at something. No doubt they make more honey with drawn comb, but they don't make that much more. Comb honey has a lot of advantages including a premium price when you sell it. Crush and strain is no more work than extracting. Both are messy arduous tasks.


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## Dutch 106 (Feb 12, 2008)

Hi all,
I've kept bees for about 10 years now topbars seem to work well in hot climets but poorly in colder they just don't work in Wisconsin. Well great with a young swarm during the summer and don't survive the winter.
They are intended for wood poor cultures and cheap to work with I've even seen some designs for hybrid systems using langstroth boxs for honey storage and topbar for the brood chamber.
good luck,
Dutch


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## justgojumpit (May 5, 2003)

I had no problem with my top bar hive overwintering in NY. Did you give them some insulation? Also how was the ventilation in your top bar hives? These could both be reasons that they didn't make it.

justgojumpit


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## Michael Bush (Oct 26, 2008)

I overwinter them in Nebraska (Zone 5) and they overwinter just as well as any other hive.


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## beeman97 (Jul 13, 2003)

I am very interested in making 1 of these hives just because i think it is a cool style to have sitting around, i can grasp all aspects of the construction except 1 thing, the beveled comb guide is escaping my understanding, can someone post of picture of this part so i can see exactly what it is & how it is shaped, i can't make it out in the only pic provided that it is in. thanks for the help.


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## beeman97 (Jul 13, 2003)

disregard that last post i have found a perfect picture of the part i was asking about here 
http://www.backyardhive.com/General/General/BackYardHive_Beekeeping_Shop/


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