# Making Pine Tar Soap



## RVcook

DH and I are both fans of Grandpa's Pine Tar (Wonder) Soap. Even though the soap is brown, it has a wonderfully rich, white lather and it's skin softening properties are excellent. It is also antiseptic, antifungal, keeps the ticks away and soothes eczema, dandruff and psoriasis. Hey...I could go on and on, but the bottom line is that we just really like it.

I could not find the ingredients listed on the individual box, but on the web I found: Coconut oil, palm oil, purified water, pine tar oil, (Pinus palistris), vegetable glycerin. The bar is very hard out of the box.

I found information on Miller's soap making website _(that almost dissuaded me from even attempting to try)_ and a formula on the Muller's Lane Farm site that used olive oil and lard (NOT vege-based), but no comments. I am not a complete novice to soapmaking, but I'm just getting back into it after a many-year hiatus so I definitely get better results (at this point) with specific formula's rather than trying to adjust. Also, the soaps I've made (in the past) have all used lard so I'm not sure how a vege-based soap differs from one made from AO.

Has anyone here actually made a pine tar soap like Grandpa's? And if so, what has been your experience with the mixture coming to trace? Also, did you find that it was necessary to add extra pine essential oil for fragrance?

Thanks for all your input.

Donna H.


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## halfpint

I make my own Pine tar soap using all oils, no lard. I use about 4 oz in a 4 lb loaf.

I do not add any other scents or fragrances, I'm not sure they would overpower the scent of the pine tar anyway.

Use disposable spoons, or sticks for your pine tar. I usually purchase a package of 4 or 5 wooden spoons at the dollar store - and throw them away after getting the pine tar out. I put the container of pine tar on my scale, press the tare button (so that it reads zero), then add 4 oz of weights, then remove pine tar with a spoon and right into my oils until the scale reads zero again.

I add my pine tar to my warm oils and mix well before I add the lye. Make sure you have everything ready to pour. Add your lye - and mix with a spoon - do not use a stick blender - with a spoon it will trace within a few seconds to a few minutes. Pour in your mold quickly. Wrap mold and put outside - otherwise the odor will overtake your house.

Cut in about 8-12 hours - let bars dry in a room that you don't mind the odor (I usually use our garage in the fall or spring).

The bars become very hard very quickly.

Personally I like my bars better than the Grandpa's.

I do include Pine Tar in my calculation, I've heard from some people that do not. It is included in the Brambleberry soap calculator: 
http://www.brambleberry.com/lye_calc_1.php
I'm not sure if any of the other soap calculators have added it yet.

Dawn


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## RVcook

halfpint said:


> I make my own Pine tar soap using all oils, no lard. I use about 4 oz in a 4 lb loaf.
> 
> I do not add any other scents or fragrances, I'm not sure they would overpower the scent of the pine tar anyway.
> 
> Use disposable spoons, or sticks for your pine tar. I usually purchase a package of 4 or 5 wooden spoons at the dollar store - and throw them away after getting the pine tar out. I put the container of pine tar on my scale, press the tare button (so that it reads zero), then add 4 oz of weights, then remove pine tar with a spoon and right into my oils until the scale reads zero again.
> 
> I add my pine tar to my warm oils and mix well before I add the lye. Make sure you have everything ready to pour. Add your lye - and mix with a spoon - do not use a stick blender - with a spoon it will trace within a few seconds to a few minutes. Pour in your mold quickly. Wrap mold and put outside - otherwise the odor will overtake your house.
> 
> Cut in about 8-12 hours - let bars dry in a room that you don't mind the odor (I usually use our garage in the fall or spring).
> 
> The bars become very hard very quickly.
> 
> Personally I like my bars better than the Grandpa's.
> 
> I do include Pine Tar in my calculation, I've heard from some people that do not. It is included in the Brambleberry soap calculator:
> http://www.brambleberry.com/lye_calc_1.php
> I'm not sure if any of the other soap calculators have added it yet.
> 
> Dawn


Thank you Dawn for your reply.

I had read that the soap traces VERY quickly and that was indeed a concern of mine. As you suggested, I'd just better be ready to pour!

I actually like the smell of Grandpa's soap so I was thinking that adding a little more pine fragrance would just enhance it. Your comment assures me that it is not necessary.

You said you like your soap better than Grandpa's, would you be willing to share your formulation? I'd love to have a look at it.

Thank you very much for your tips and help. 

Donna H.


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## MullersLaneFarm

Pine Tar is recommended at 3-10% of recipe.

The NaOh SAP value is 0.0431.

I've had Pine Tar in my lye calculator since 2002 and soapcalc.com (which was originally created using my data - with permission) has had pine tar in their calculator since it's inception.

Donna, any reason you want to go with an all-veggie recipe? I like using the olive and lard because it gives me more play time with the pine tar since both olive and lard are slow to trace.

Personally, my skin can't tolerate palm oil so I always use lard in my recipes.


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## RVcook

MullersLaneFarm said:


> Pine Tar is recommended at 3-10% of recipe.
> 
> The NaOh SAP value is 0.0431.
> 
> I've had Pine Tar in my lye calculator since 2002 and soapcalc.com (which was originally created using my data - with permission) has had pine tar in their calculator since it's inception.
> 
> Donna, any reason you want to go with an all-veggie recipe? I like using the olive and lard because it gives me more play time with the pine tar since both olive and lard are slow to trace.
> 
> Personally, my skin can't tolerate palm oil so I always use lard in my recipes.


Thank you for the input; this is exactly why I posted the questions. I did _NOT_ know that palm oil may create skin issues as I have not used it before. And actually...there is NO reason that I want to go with an all-veggie formula either. I was only trying to duplicate the Grandpa's formula. But now that you mentioned that both olive oil and lard are slow to trace, and I am familiar with using those ingredients, I would lean more towards making it with AO.

Being in a hard water area, I am interested in getting a good lathering soap, so I am curious; since the olive oil and lard formulation does not contain any coconut oil, will there be sufficient lather? Otherwise (now that I have a greater understanding of how the pine tar affects trace), I'm thinking that maybe I should just use a high-lathering AO soap formula, add in the pine tar and run it through the calculator. What do you think?

Again, thank you very much for your input.

Donna H.


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## halfpint

Donna;
I use Palm Oil in my soaps, and it has never bothered me. I have allergic reactions or skin irritations from a lot of things, but Palm Oil has not been one of them. This is something that will vary from person to person. If Palm is listed in the Grandpa's and that bar hasn't bothered you, then it probably won't bother you in another bar. But unless you are looking for a non-animal based bar, lard is fine, and much easier to find than Palm Oil. I wanted a very moisturizing bar along with the Pine tar. Here is what I use:

24 oz olive
16 oz palm
18 oz coconut
2 oz cocoa butter
4 oz sweet almond
4 oz pine tar.

Run your ingredients through a soap calculator.

I have soft water, so I don't usually have problems with lather. 

Dawn


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## Gunnie

Where can you purchase pine tar?


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## RVcook

Gunnie said:


> Where can you purchase pine tar?


I got mine at the farm supply store, Farm & Fleet in Wisconsin. I would think that any tack and feed store would have it since it's used for horses hooves. The stuff smells gawd awful, but when put into soap, it leaves a nice pine smell.

Donna H.


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## RVcook

halfpint said:


> Donna;
> I use Palm Oil in my soaps, and it has never bothered me. I have allergic reactions or skin irritations from a lot of things, but Palm Oil has not been one of them. This is something that will vary from person to person. If Palm is listed in the Grandpa's and that bar hasn't bothered you, then it probably won't bother you in another bar. But unless you are looking for a non-animal based bar, lard is fine, and much easier to find than Palm Oil. I wanted a very moisturizing bar along with the Pine tar. Here is what I use:
> 
> 24 oz olive
> 16 oz palm
> 18 oz coconut
> 2 oz cocoa butter
> 4 oz sweet almond
> 4 oz pine tar.
> 
> Run your ingredients through a soap calculator.
> 
> I have soft water, so I don't usually have problems with lather.
> 
> Dawn


Thanks Dawn.

Now that I have a better handle on the ingredients, I think I'll try a batch and see how it works out. Since I already have lard rendered, that is probably what I'll use. Now I just have to order up some lye.

I really appreciate everyone's help with this. You are all very generous with your 'wisdom.'

Thanks again,

Donna H.


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## Gunnie

RVcook said:


> I got mine at the farm supply store, Farm & Fleet in Wisconsin. I would think that any tack and feed store would have it since it's used for horses hooves. The stuff smells gawd awful, but when put into soap, it leaves a nice pine smell.
> 
> Donna H.


Thanks! (I didnt know they still had F&F around they closed all the ones around here.)


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## MullersLaneFarm

Be careful when buying from a F&F store - make sure it is 100% pine tar and not just a hoof treatment that has a smaller % of pine tar.


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## RVcook

MullersLaneFarm said:


> Be careful when buying from a F&F store - make sure it is 100% pine tar and not just a hoof treatment that has a smaller % of pine tar.


You are right Cyndi...I should've mentioned that. It took me a while to find the correct product since all the name-brands were distracting me. Finally, I got to the 32 oz. white can that just says "Pine Tar" and *NOT* ointment, treatment or dressing.

Donna H.


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## used2bcool13

After reading your recipes I just had to try this soap. I was heading to my Agway for chicken feed and found the pine tar for $4.99 and decided I would try the soap. DH uses a shampoo for his scalp condition and I thought this may be adaptable for a shampoo bar. 

Whewww!! I opened that can and just about fell over!! It smelled like something burnt, like maybe burnt railroad ties I don't know but it was baaaaddd. But I was into this for $4.99 so I was making some stinky soap. I decided to just make a bar or two and let them cure outside. I am hoping when I unmold it it will smell like pine trees a little.

I will keep you posted.
Thanks
Alison


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## RVcook

used2bcool13 said:


> After reading your recipes I just had to try this soap. I was heading to my Agway for chicken feed and found the pine tar for $4.99 and decided I would try the soap. DH uses a shampoo for his scalp condition and I thought this may be adaptable for a shampoo bar.
> 
> Whewww!! I opened that can and just about fell over!! It smelled like something burnt, like maybe burnt railroad ties I don't know but it was baaaaddd. But I was into this for $4.99 so I was making some stinky soap. I decided to just make a bar or two and let them cure outside. I am hoping when I unmold it it will smell like pine trees a little.
> 
> I will keep you posted.
> Thanks
> Alison


Oh Alison...:rotfl:...Yep...I told you it smelled gawd awful! And you are correct, it does smell like it's burnt, probably because that's how the pine tar is extracted!

I know that the smell puts a lot of people off, but the pine tar soap that Grandpa's (or Packer's) makes really does smell more like pine trees when cured. I will be interested to hear your findings. I'm still waiting for my lye to arrive and then I'll be making a batch too.

DH swears by the stuff and when working outside, we both use it for our showers and shampooing our hair. It really does keep the ticks away! And it leaves my skin and hair really soft, not to mention how nice DH smells .

Donna H.


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## used2bcool13

Hey Donna,
Well I can't believe it but I unmolded those few sample bars and no smell, or should I say no bad smell. I was in such a rush to get them outside they look swirled in appearance. I am pretty happy with them. I will be making a bigger batch soon I think. Thanks for the info, I thought they might make a good shampoo bar.

Alison


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## RVcook

used2bcool13 said:


> Hey Donna,
> Well I can't believe it but I unmolded those few sample bars and no smell, or should I say no bad smell. I was in such a rush to get them outside they look swirled in appearance. I am pretty happy with them. I will be making a bigger batch soon I think. Thanks for the info, I thought they might make a good shampoo bar.
> 
> Alison


Did they have _*any*_ smell? I'm wondering if adding a bit of extra essential oil would 'boost' the pine fragrance. What do you think?

Donna H.


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## used2bcool13

Hey Donna,
I didn't use too much of the pine tar for the small trial batch I made and there is a scent of sorts but it isn't really piney, more earthy and very light-you can't really smell it.
If you want the pine smell I would definitely add pine scented oil.
Alison


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## MullersLaneFarm

Am I the only one that *likes* the smell of pine tar???

Then again, I like the smell of lanolin too ......


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## RVcook

used2bcool13 said:


> Hey Donna,
> I didn't use too much of the pine tar for the small trial batch I made and there is a scent of sorts but it isn't really piney, more earthy and very light-you can't really smell it.
> If you want the pine smell I would definitely add pine scented oil.
> Alison


Thank you Alison, that is good to know. I probably won't add too much essential oil...just enough to ramp up the fragrance. Thank you so much for your feedback. My case of lye finally arrived and pine tar soap is on my "To Do" list in the near future.

Donna H.


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## RVcook

MullersLaneFarm said:


> Am I the only one that *likes* the smell of pine tar???
> 
> Then again, I like the smell of lanolin too ......


Heck NO Cyndi! I like the smell of pine tar (and so does DH). I just have never made soap with it and am looking for the scent level equal to that of Grandpa's, which is 'faint' but definitely detectable. I've got a fresh bar of Grandpa's in the cabinet that I've got set aside so I can compare the two when my bars are done curing, sometime in January. Doing a side-by-side comparison will help me to figure out what I need to do differently next time.

I'm definitely looking for that pine-tar scent!

Donna H.


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## Cheribelle

I Love pine tar soap, usually have a bar of Burt's Bees around for washing off the poison ivy. So, it goes in with the other oils, and the sap chart does deal with it?.... I was told put it in after, but looks like I need more research.


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## MullersLaneFarm

Some lye calculators have it listed, others don't. soapcalc.com does.

I add with my oils to melt it.


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## bowdonkey

ttt. Ladies, I've experimented with a new formula for pine tar soap. It ROCKS. It's as good as Grampa's brand. I'll post more later when there's time, it's time to head out to work now.


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## InHisName

Has anyone used goats milk in their pine tar soap?


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## Seagrape

I have used liquid lecithin to slow down trace when working with finicky FO's. Don't know if it would help with pine tar soap or not but it's worth a try. I use 1 tsp per pound of oils. It really does slow down trace and gives you more time to get the soap into the mold.


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## samm

inhisname..i was just wondering the same thing......
.......anybody ???

samm


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## glazed

I have a question for hand-millers ... I wonder how much pine tar I'd put into a batch of grated lye soap (to be poured and re-molded) ?


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## bowdonkey

As promised here's the recipe. First of all if you're not familiar with pine tar, it speeds up trace big time. This is NOT a blender soap, don't even try. I used "soap calc" for the lye amounts. To slow down the trace the oil and lye water were at room temp or less. 10 oz meat shortning, 4 oz coconut oil, 2 oz corn oil, 2 oz pine tar. I dissolved 1 T of sugar in 8 oz water before adding 2.4 oz of lye. At 8 oz, it was a little more water than called for, but it seems to slow trace and give me more time to pour into molds. At the slightest hint of trace I added 1/2 oz of real Lavendar oil. I only had to stir this stuff about 3-4 minutes before light trace. I usually use 1 oz each of olive and castor oils instead of corn oil, but I wanted to try some soap this way. About the only difference I can see is the bubbles lack a toughness that castor adds. This recipe bubbles well in soft water, for hard water I'd drop an oz or two of shortning and increase the coconut. It has a nice slightly off white lather, and the best smell of any fragrance I've ever used in soap. Here's the kicker, and it took me awhile to catch on. While showering with this stuff, the soap as it's being washed off your skin is a light brown color. This gave me the impression that all the dirt and grime that accumulates on me between bath sessions was being washed away. It took me several showers and bars before I figured out what was really happening. I admit, I don't bathe regular or even as much as a normal person but I was more than shocked at the amount of junk that had been trapped in my skins pours. Thank the Lord that wasn't the case, because for the first time in a long time, I was worried. So I guess what I'm trying to say is don't just lay this bar down anywhere as it leaves a brown stain behind. Nothing permanent mind you, but it would be wise to keep it in a dish or something if you care about such things. Enjoy!


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## samm

thanks for the recipie bowdonkey....
samm


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## NostalgicGranny

Can pine tar be used in a dog soap?


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## HOTW

Pine is not good for dogs they are allergic to it


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## homebody

I've read somewhere that the pine tar is supposed to be 20/25% of the recipe or it won't be effective. How do you know what's true anymore?

There is a website that sells it and it is BLACK soap, other websites are shades of tan, depending on the % of pine tar added. So how to know what to do on the % question?


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## PennyJ

InHisName & samm....I used goat milk in the batch that I made and it turned out beautifully


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## bowdonkey

Update on that soap recipe. Good stuff. My only critisism would be the last of the bar gets a little soft. It might be the humidity here in the northern MN. The next batch will drop an oz of shortning and be replaced by a like amount of coconut, maybe even 2 oz. I'll also drop the lavendar oil to 5 ml, because the pine tar really locks up the smell, though it's just fine the way it is. I may try 10X Orange in the future. I may also replace an oz of the corn oil with castor to add toughness to the bubbles. All in all it's great stuff, I'm actually bathing regular now.


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## Step

I hot process my soap and don't add any ingredients until after the soap is fully cooked and no longer caustic. Not quite the same as handmilling/rebatching, but same idea. When I add extra oil (superfat) I figure no more than 1 ounce per pound. 

Half pint listed a 4 pound recipe with 4 ounces of pine tar.. so I think the 1 ounce/pound probably would hold true with the pine tar as well. Do a Google Search and perhaps someone who does make HP or Rebatched Pine Tar soap has the information on the net. 

The benefit of HP or rebatching (once you get the soap grated and remelted) is, after you've added ingredients, take a spoonful of warm soap, cool off under cold water... and try out the soap! If it doesn't have enough of 'whatever' you've added, you can add more. CP soap, once you've added the ingredients - it's too late to make changes, that is unless you intend to rebatch. And if you intend to rebatch, save the hassle and just double-boiler (Smaller pot inside a larger filled with water) your soap.


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## RVcook

I made an 8 lb. batch for DH who LOVES the stuff and used 8 oz. of pine tar in it. 

I don't know about the 20-25% "rule", but I'm really satisfied with how the batch turned out and how it performs...even though with making this amount, I probably won't get to test out any changes until every bar is gone...which could be in the next millennium...!

RVcook


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## bowdonkey

I made another batch a couple days ago. I used 9oz shortning, 5 coconut,1 olive and 1 castor. For flavoring it was 2 oz pinetar and 10ml of lavender oil. This is more along the lines of my original ******* recipe with minor adjustments for hopefully making a harder bar. Both batches with 2 oz pine tar PPO yields a black color soap that's as good as Granpa's.


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## MullersLaneFarm

I use pine tar soap on my dogs without a reaction (except for it killing fleas and helping his dry, itchy skin). That doesn't mean that you're dog won't have a reaction.

I wouldn't put pine EO on my dog, but have no problem with pine tar.

Thinking about adding a touch of cedarwood oil to my next batch of pine tar.


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## bowdonkey

OK folks, I have 3 small bars that will be coming out of the mold in a week or so that was made with the recipe in my latest post. PM me your address if interested in trying some. Of course if I'm called west, it may be awhile.


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## InHisName

made the pine tar with goats' milk, thanks for the heads up of speedy trace! In the mold now. Question- why do the soap calcs have different lye and liquid amounts when I punch in the ingredients?


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## JDog1222

OK, I&#8217;m gonna do it, this Friday&#8230;&#8230;.I&#8217;m gonna make PINE TAR SOAP! My husband LOVES the Grandpa brand soap but has been out for quite some time, any last minute helpful hints??? Will the smell really be all that bad if I do it inside? It&#8217;s cold outside and I have no other choice.


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## MullersLaneFarm

Jill,

I love the smell of pine tar! Just be ready for it to come to a very quick trace ... and I mean soap on a stick in less than 30 seconds. Don't discount the liquid amount and make sure you have all your molds lined and ready to go. Also, use a spoon to stir instead of a stick blender.


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## halfpint

MullersLaneFarm said:


> Jill,
> 
> I love the smell of pine tar! Just be ready for it to come to a very quick trace ... and I mean soap on a stick in less than 30 seconds. Don't discount the liquid amount and make sure you have all your molds lined and ready to go. Also, use a spoon to stir instead of a stick blender.


I would add to this to use a spoon you don't want. I'm saving a cracked wooden spoon for my next batch of pine tar. It's a bear to clean up. Use a plastic spoon to get it out of the container. She is not kidding about the quick trace.

Dawn


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## JDog1222

OK, then I should NOT use my fancy All Clad stainless steel stock pan either? Is this type of soap hard to get out of the pan too? I CAN do this; I just might need everyone on standby on Friday. Iâm gonna read this thread again, twiceâ¦..or three times, to make sure Iâm not missing a thing. I got a new digital scale from Samâs and I have been preparing for this day. Oh, and the molds are liner free, should I line them anywayâ¦â¦..just to be safe? :grit: scared


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## MullersLaneFarm

Don't be ascared ... it's just soap. Go ahead and use the SS. If you have a hard time getting it out of the pot, place that pot in a pot of hot water (double boiler style) and hot process it. The soap will soften up enough to get out of the pot.

Pony! just found the digital scale I gave her (that she doesn't use) and is sending it on to Rachel. Tim has my number if you need to give me a call Friday.


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## MullersLaneFarm

With it being just soap, you can wash it off your fancy pot and spoons.


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## halfpint

Sorry for the confusion. The spoon I meant was the one you use to get the pine tar out of the jar with. You won't get the pine tar off that spoon, sometimes even with using it to mix the soap since the soap traces so quick. The soap in the pan will be fairly easy to get out. So I usually use either a plastic heavy duty disposable spoon to get the pine tar out and then use my stainless steel spoon to stir the soap, or use an old wooden spoon to get the pine tar out and mix the soap, then throw that spoon away.
Dawn


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## MullersLaneFarm

You're absolutely correct, HP!

And notice she said Heavy Duty disposable spoon. A regular disposable spoon snaps in half just getting near pine tar!


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## deaconjim

I wonder if pine tar would be good in shaving soap?


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## MullersLaneFarm

Yes it will. Pine tar is great for calming skin irritations.


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## Filerook

Hello! I am pretty new to this site, although I have been making soap for many MANY years. Like Cyndi, I am from Illinois, although I am on the other side of the state, just outside of Chicago. I was a homebirth midwife for almost twenty years, and then decided to go to law school. I am now an Illinois-licensed attorney in solo practice. I also sell my soap/bath&body products online.

Anyway, as to Pine Tar soap -- my husband LOVES it, as do many others. This is the recipe I use --

Pine Tar Soap

3.2 castor oil
6.4 shea butter
9.6 coconut oil
19.2 olive oil
25.6 palm oil
24 H2O
9.1 lye

12 oz pine tar melted with oils

As others have mentioned, this stuff traces at the speed of light -- do NOT use a stick blender with this soap! It heats up quite a bit in the mold, and (for me, anyway) produces a really lovely, hard, almost black soap with a very strong pine tar scent.

Another of my favorites (and best sellers) is a soap made with activated charcoal. I scent it with a combination of lavender, tea tree, eucalyptus and rosemary, and pour it into a round mold. It kind of ends up looking like a hockey puck!

Valerie


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## MullersLaneFarm

Welcome Valerie! Come out of lurkdom status and join us!

Your pine tar recipe sounds lovely! My skin doesn't like palm oil (and since we raise a few Berkshire hogs a year, I have plenty of lard), so I'd substitute the palm with lard, but that's just me.

I like the sound of your EO combination.


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## NamasteMama

What is the difference between pine tar and pine sap? can they be interchanged?


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## JDog1222

:help: Ok, I killed the soap! :Bawling: Ummmâ¦..I think I put it a little too close to the wood burner hot air outlet.  Yeah..........crap, I KNOW I put it too close, directly in front of it. :grumble: One of the molds, the whole center was liquid and ooooooozed out. The other two have a hard crusty bottom! So, do I just melt them in a crock pot and remold them, even without the missing stuff that oozed out???


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## MullersLaneFarm

Do you still have the oozy stuff? If so, put that in the crock pot too. Wear gloves and grate the rest of it. Stir every 15 minutes until you don't see any more grated soap, then remold


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## JDog1222

OK, I remolded two of them, the ones with the ooze still in tacked. They were real stiff so I added some water and stick blended them. How long will it take them to cure? They are still quite rubbery. The third one, the ooze leaked out onto the floor so I think itâs a goner. Well, I know itâs a goner because I cooked it up and added a little of this and a little of that playing chemist! Itâs just really oily and has the consistency of soft caramel. I put it into a Tupperware bowl for some day when I make a really hard soap. I read that I can mix the two and make a usable one.Or, I can bring it to you Cyndi so you can see what I have done! :ashamed:


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## MullersLaneFarm

It depends on how much water you added to them. Since it is new soap, you didn't need to add much liquid to it.

I forgot to tell you that after you grated it, you should have added about 1 TBL of liquid to every lb of soap shreds. Mix it well, then put in air tight container overnight to soften it before putting in the crock pot. I'm sorry!

If they're quite rubbery, it will probably take all winter to evaporate all the extra moisture. You can use them now, but they'll probably won't last long with use.

Absolutely, bring me a bar when you're here next month!


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## JDog1222

Teehee&#8230;&#8230;..all winter! I can hardly keep DH out of them now. He LOVES the smell of these 100X better than the Grandpa brand he used to use. He just sits at the table taking in deep breaths with them cuddled under his arm, big smile on his face and all&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;..








I think I'll let him use a bar so we can see how he likes it! I'll Lya'llK
Thanks Cyndi for all your help and everyone else for the tips and recipes!


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## MullersLaneFarm

Glad the DH likes the scent, can't wait to see how he likes it in the shower!


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## Guest

what brand of pine tar is everyone using. went to Farm and Fleet and they dont carry it any more. went to our local store and the Horse Health brand was labeled not for human use, when i got home i found info that it has phenol (?) which may cause sever burns. so that will be going back... any namebrands? or online sources? 
thanks


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## MullersLaneFarm

I get mine online from American Livestock Supply


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## lathermaker

MullersLaneFarm said:


> Am I the only one that *likes* the smell of pine tar???
> 
> Then again, I like the smell of lanolin too ......


Nope!:happy0035: I like the smell of pine tar and lanolin. Both remind me of our barn growing up.


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## canadiangirl

I have had a can of pine tar sitting here for over a year and just haven't had the time to try soaping it. I think you have motivated me to give it a go sometime this week. I'll keep you informed ; )


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## used2bcool13

Woo Hoo!, you may want to find a place you can open a window, just saying... lol


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## jane2256

Hello All!
I believe this is my first time posting in this forum. I have enjoyed reading about pine tar soap and was wondering if anyone would care to sell a bar or two. If so, please PM me.
Thank you!


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