# Reloading .45 ACP questions



## Cornhusker (Mar 20, 2003)

I'm a rookie at reloading, but I've got some good results with .38 special, .45 colt, .357 mag, but this .45 ACP is making me scratch my head a little.
I loaded some with Titegroup, and they worked fine, a bit snappy but manageable.
I decided to try some different powder, and while staring at the wall of powders at the LGS, I decided on "Universal" figuring "Hey, that should work for purtinear anything.
The manual says to use (As I recall) 5.8 grains to 6.2 grains of Universal for the 200 grain plated bullet.
I loaded up a box with 6.1 grains figuring it would be a pretty zippy load, but when I test fired in my Ruger P345, it wouldn't even cycle. It would extract, but it wouldn't bring the empty back far enough to eject it, and the one time it did, it didn't go back far enough to pick up the next round.
The paper that came with my die set said the C.O.L. should be something like 1.235 (going by my rather sketchy memory), so that's what I seated them to.
After my testing, I got to reading, and a lot of places are saying 1.15.
Does that sound right to you guys?
Should I push them on down to 1.15?
I don't have a lot of crimp, just enough to take the flair our and just a tickle more.
Any advice would be appreciated.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

Universal isn't a good powder for low pressure loads.
Try some Winchester 231 and save the Universal for heavier loads.


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## topside1 (Sep 23, 2005)




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## Cornhusker (Mar 20, 2003)

topside1 said:


> View attachment 80274
> View attachment 80274


Looks like the same book I have. Lee's?
Anyway, do you think pushing the bullets in a bit more would help?


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## Cornhusker (Mar 20, 2003)

Bearfootfarm said:


> Universal isn't a good powder for low pressure loads.
> Try some Winchester 231 and save the Universal for heavier loads.


Probably work OK in .45 Colt?


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

Cornhusker said:


> Probably work OK in .45 Colt?


Yes, and it might work in the ACP with heavier bullets.


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## topside1 (Sep 23, 2005)

I generally just measure a factory load's overall length and go from there....Topside


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## muleskinner2 (Oct 7, 2007)

It sounds to me that your Ruger .45 has a very strong recoil spring. A better crimp might cause enough more pressure to cycle the slide. But, I would not excide the recommended load. This doesn't sound like a horsepower issue, sounds more like a real strong recoil spring issue.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

the 2nd edition printing of Lee Modern reloading lists 6.0 to 6.7 and not 6.2 as the max

for cast or jacketed 

plated is more like cast 

interestingly enough Hodgdon's web site list 5.8 starting to a max of 6.2


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

if our looking for a good powder for the auto loading pistols I like what I am getting with Alliant Power Pistol

reasonably priced meters well in lee auto disk , pro auto disk and auto drum powder measures 

excellent in 9, 40 ,45 it also works well in 38spl regular pressure and +p as well as medium loads in 44mag

in 9 I run 124gr coated and plated bullets , in 40 180gr coated and cast , 45acp 230gr coated bullets 

38sp cast 128gr


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## Chuck R. (Apr 24, 2008)

muleskinner2 said:


> It sounds to me that your Ruger .45 has a very strong recoil spring. A better crimp might cause enough more pressure to cycle the slide. But, I would not excide the recommended load. This doesn't sound like a horsepower issue, sounds more like a real strong recoil spring issue.


Couple weeks ago in one of our matches (IDPA) a guy was having the same issue with a new FNP in .45ACP. He'd get the OPs symptoms to a "T". Same exact load he runs in his 1911s. Watching the ejection, the brass looked like it was dribbling out of the pistol and pretty much landing at his feet. In between stages he tried a few factory 230 grain ball and it ejected "with a purpose" and zero issues.

Lesson learned, don't show up at a match with "new" anything...

Zero problems with the pistol, it's just "over sprung" for light loads. Either beef up the loads, or look at a lighter spring.


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## Cabin Fever (May 10, 2002)

I don't have any advice about reloading .45acp, but I have a bunch of used ball bullets that you can have. Yes, they are used. We often practice using a log wall as a back stop. It amazes me that most of the bullets just bounce off the wood and fall to the ground next to the backstop. Some do enter the wood, but are easy to pick out by hand.

At any rate, if you want some used and slightly dented ball projectiles, let me know.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

Cabin Fever said:


> I don't have any advice about reloading .45acp, but I have a bunch of used ball bullets that you can have. Yes, they are used. We often practice using a log wall as a back stop. It amazes me that most of the bullets just bounce off the wood and fall to the ground next to the backstop. Some do enter the wood, but are easy to pick out by hand.
> 
> At any rate, if you want some used and slightly dented ball projectiles, let me know.



if he isn't interested could I get a large flat rate box of those used bullets ?

I am getting pretty good at reusing them.


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## Cornhusker (Mar 20, 2003)

Cabin Fever said:


> I don't have any advice about reloading .45acp, but I have a bunch of used ball bullets that you can have. Yes, they are used. We often practice using a log wall as a back stop. It amazes me that most of the bullets just bounce off the wood and fall to the ground next to the backstop. Some do enter the wood, but are easy to pick out by hand.
> 
> At any rate, if you want some used and slightly dented ball projectiles, let me know.


I'd give em a try


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## Cornhusker (Mar 20, 2003)

Should I try pushing the bullets in a little more?
I'd stay within recommended depth, but I'm wondering if it would add enough pressure to cycle the slide.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

Cornhusker said:


> Should I try pushing the bullets in a little more?


Several manuals show higher max loads, so it should be safe to increase them.
I'd want to weigh each charge since in small cases a tiny amount makes a big difference.

I'd leave the seating depth alone for now.


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## Cornhusker (Mar 20, 2003)

Well, I tried those same loads (I had already loaded 100) in a 1911 and a M&P Shield .45, they worked fine, and in fact were pretty accurate.
Just not quite enough oomph for the Ruger.
I'll use these up in the other guns and next time I load for .45 acp, I'll use up some of the Titegroup, and will look for some of the powders you guys recommended.
Thanks for the info.


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## GunMonkeyIntl (May 13, 2013)

GREENCOUNTYPETE said:


> Cabin Fever said:
> 
> 
> > I don't have any advice about reloading .45acp, but I have a bunch of used ball bullets that you can have. Yes, they are used. We often practice using a log wall as a back stop. It amazes me that most of the bullets just bounce off the wood and fall to the ground next to the backstop. Some do enter the wood, but are easy to pick out by hand.
> ...


Really?
You don't run into issues with pressure loss through the rifling grooves?
Thinking through it, it seems like it could be workable, but I can't say I've ever seen it done.


On a related (but totally unrelated) note, I have 100% confirmed that you can load a .40 S&W with the head off a Lego figure, retrieve it, and reuse it... as a head for a Lego figure.


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## MichaelK! (Oct 22, 2010)

You violated the first rule of reloading, in that you picked a load near the top and you just loaded it up. You got lucky that it seems underpowered! What you should have done is made a few test loads at the starting grains, working you way up to the maximum load. It might be OK to exceed maximum if you've done your do diligence, and don't see any excessive pressure signs. Please do not do that again!

My own 45ACP load had to be developed for a fussy 1911 clone. I found that the bullet seating depth was significantly different from the published maximum. This is with a Lyman 200g SWC that I cast myself. Yes, feel free to vary to OAL, but alway, always start low, find the optimal length, then inch up the powder charge. With my bullet, the OAL is 1.175". My own load is a stout load of Alliant Blue Dot, which is my go-to powder for just about everything from 9mm to .44.

You might want to look on-line for a copy of Dean Grennell's "Book of the .45", one of the best references I have in my gun library. I saw a used "good" copy on Amazon for 3.99$


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

GunMonkeyIntl said:


> Really?
> You don't run into issues with pressure loss through the rifling grooves?
> Thinking through it, it seems like it could be workable, but I can't say I've ever seen it done.
> 
> ...



full disclosure , I melt them down and recast new bullets from used lead. then often powder coat and size them.

however I have it from a fairly reliable source that you can if you have a shot but not damaged bullet as an example if I was shooting 30-30 bullets into a deep snow and you went around and picked up my bullets come spring I have done that and they are just laying on the ground almost new looking behind the target over about 50 feet that if you then paper patch my bullet and shoot it say through a 32 win spl or 8mm , because the bullet never contacts the rifling and the paper seals the gas you can get that bullet to fly fairly well , well enough that you could make a 50 yard shot. so given the right circumstances I could shoot your bullet with a reasonable degree of accuracy and not leave my rifling on the bullet only yours.

45acp bullets .452 could also be patched and fired out of a muzzle loader , with no barrel to projectile contact easily

cream of wheat can be used to form a gas check of sorts also , load the powder charge in the case fill to nearly full then compress the load with the bullet if you had a clean enough and un-damaged enough bullet you could run it through a push through sizer to make sure it was't out of round load it a second time using the cream of wheat buffer behind it. you do need to figure the weight of the filler as part of the projectile.

blow by loss so common in handguns think 9mm cylinder in a 38/357/9mm convertible blackhawk.

not uncommon on a recovered pistol bullet to find blackening opposite the rifling grooves on copper jacketed bullets

back to shooting in deep snow doesn't damage bullets , I had a target stand on a gravel path that wasn't plowed all winter knee deep snow and the bench and target in the same place , I had a lot of bullets I could just pick up come spring thaw they turn backwards and are laying there

measuring 9mm barrels there are a few of them that slug .357 and not .355 pistol powder especially the faster end of the burn chart would still generate plenty of pressure to get the bullet out the barrel maybe not with the same exact velocity as the first go round but close or revolvers with a little lager cylinder gap wouldn't work.

similar to the lego heads , I had not tried that but I did make Glueblits hot glue bullets , if you have a 45 revolver you can just use 45 cal glue sticks if not you use mold with a little cooking spray , and inject hot glue into the mold then you have a glue boolit thumb seat and shoot over a ting charge of fast burning powder. want to work on that quick draw in the garage glueblits the go through a sheet of car board but are then stopped by a sheet of plywood.

of course these break a bunch of rules about reloading and shooting in the house or garage but if you happen to have common sense and can use it you can probably manage not to hurt yourself or others.


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