# wood molds



## chewie (Jun 9, 2008)

I am currently using flat slab style wood molds. they've worked ok, but I think the cutting is a pain, I liked the loaf molds I used before better. since these are falling apart, I plan to make some new wooden loaf style molds. 

is there a type of wood that is best suited? and has anyone used that super-thick plastic to line them? have a store here, its like the plastic used on tables in resturants, to cover nicer tablecloths. or just butcher paper and re-line each time?

I'd love to buy some of those no line types, but ouch $$$! so new wood ones will have to work. any tips? or would I be better off making them so the sides come off/hinge down?


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## lathermaker (May 7, 2010)

I use wooden molds then line them with freezer paper. Have also used the heavy plastic to line them. Both work well.
One tip. If using wooden molds that you line, punch a few holes in the bottom of the mold so that suction can't develop. Otherwise, the soap block won't slip out of the mold. Suction holds it in there.


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## chewie (Jun 9, 2008)

hmm, never thought of that. is there a type of wood that is better? the pine slab molds I have now really warped, hubs says too soft of wood. thinking to go oak?? 

and do the sides need to hinge down or not? so far, never had that option, but maybe its one I should do, as I think these molds will be around a while. maybe hinging the sides will help that suction issue.

ETA...in looking online at various molds to buy or make myself, there is an incredible amt of difference in sizes?! several say for 5# of soap, but one is 13inch long, one is almost 17 and one is longer than that even. all are very similar in width/height. please help me out here.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

Chewie, 
When I started making soap, I used loaf plans from Chestnut Farms. 

I have used Kesie slab moldssince 1992 since I'm real bad at cutting and even slicing soaps!!


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## chewie (Jun 9, 2008)

I would love to get one of those, but cannot afford to. currently, I am making a soap that makes 112oz of oils, 10lb 8oz total of soap. I would like to scale it down just a bit, to use half of a 4 oz of FO to scent one batch. as is, its often rather weak. 

that first link is the plan i've been saving. but what size exactly??? for my batch, where I scale it down to maybe no more than 10 lbs of soap, maybe even a full pound less??

and, I like to make a couple batches at a time. when I get around to making soap, I make LOTS of it, then put all the stuff away again for a while. so, getting just one mold isn't to my liking. 

how do those plastic molds do for insulation? do you have to wrap those in blankets? I see some ppl put their molds in the oven, why?? does this hurry up the cure time? is that hot process? I currently do cp. also, do you use anything to get the soap to slip out, like pam spray? do you have to use the liner on the bottom??

I do ok cutting but having it all even and pop out of the mold would be so nice!!


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

With the Kelsei molds, I do put a trash bag on the bottom of the mold before I snap in the sides. No worries about getting the soap off the bottom. The soap bars slide off the dividers.

Yes, I do insulate these molds. Like you, I like to make a lot of it at the same time, then put it all away. I'll usually do three 30-bar and two 42-bar molds at the same time. I stack these up on top of each other and cover with a wool blanket.

When I learned how to make soap in '99, the rule was to insulate your soap and let them 'cure for 6 weeks. I still hold to that. It is still CP soap. When folks put their soap in the oven, the only thing they are really doing is ensuring a full gel. No, neither insulating nor hot process will shorten the time you need to cure your soap. It only shortens the time before you can unmold it.


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## Trisha in WA (Sep 28, 2005)

Hubby built several molds for me. They are all the same length as the width of parchment paper..without looking, I'd guess about 17 inches. If I were to do it again, I would make them so the sides drop off rather than trying to pull the loaf out of the whole thing. They work fine, but that would make them SUPER easy to use.


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## MDKatie (Dec 13, 2010)

I use wooden log molds, and got the dimensions from this site. My dad made 2 for me, and they had the 1" cutting slot, and my boss recently made me 5 more without the cutting slot. I prefer the ones without the cutting slot, since I'd been removing the whole log to slice anyways. They're pretty easy to make...much cheaper than buying them. I line mine with freezer paper, and don't have any problems pulling the whole log up out of the mold.


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

I made my loaf molds with half inch pine plywood. No hinges, but the ends are only held on my eye hooks so I can slide the loaves out either end rather than lift the whole log out. they make 24 1 inch thick bars (really 23 because the ends are not pretty) and trying to lift that length out of the mold is nutty as I like to unmold the next day. I don't want them to get too hard because I cut them with a tank soap cutter.


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## beaglady (Oct 7, 2002)

My molds are similar to the Chestnut Farms ones, with a few modifications. My end pieces fit inside the box, rather than outside. We used threaded rod and wing nuts with washers to hold the sides in place. We used 3/4" plywood. Never got around to finishing it, but the molds have a lovely oil finish now, lol.

Lining is easy. The end pieces are 'gift wrapped' in freezer paper and masking tape. These can be reused dozens of times with only a scrape of a putty knife between uses. I used to line the U-shaped center with freezer paper, but now I use those fiberglass oven liner sheets cut to size. They wash up nicely and have lasted for several years.

The good thing about the adjustable ends is that it's easy to add chunks or embeds other soap without adjusting batch size or having bars end up a different size, simply by changing the distance between the ends.


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## Tinker (Apr 5, 2004)

beaglady, that is an EXCELLENT idea!!! I have the Chestnut farms ones, with hinges. I bought a cheap smooth shower curtain from Family Dollar, and cut it to size for my liners. I do a long skinny one first, end to end, then the wide one on top. Both drape over the sides a bit (after a while, I need to tape the sides down, or they will curl in while I am pouring) I have nails that slide in to my end holes (faster & easier than screws) but I can usually just tip the mold on its side, and use the edge flaps to pull the soap out, without taking the whole mold apart. The cut shower curtain will last abou 15-20 batches before it needs replaced, and you gut quite a few from a curtain.


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## chewie (Jun 9, 2008)

super, thanks so very much! I figured I'd just get the hardware store to cut all my pieces and I'd screw it together. nice to know ply wood works! 

beaglady, is there any chance to see your mold? I am going to do like you are! that sounds super. did you put a couple different holes to thread the rod thru, to make it longer or shorter? and how much does this hold? I seem to be finding varying amts for same size molds, using a couple online sites. 

this is exactly the info I was looking for! I still long for those kelsei molds but just cannot do it. this will be dandy til then. great tips about lining them too.


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## beaglady (Oct 7, 2002)

I don't have any good pics of my molds. What I do have is a CAD drawing with dimensions. If you PM me your address, I'll send you a copy. I have both a single and double width version. 

I just have one set of threaded rods, close to each end. The wooden end pieces stay in place once the wing nuts are tightened, no matter where they're placed. Usually, I set the mold at 13-1/2", for 3# of oils, or 6# on the double ones. Once cured, the bars are a smidge over 4 oz. 

It's easy to gauge how much to adjust it when adding chunks - just figure the equivalent weight of one bar adds an inch, and adjust accordingly.


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## beaglady (Oct 7, 2002)

I don't have any good pics of my molds. What I do have is a CAD drawing with dimensions. If you PM me your address, I'll send you a copy. I have both a single and double width version. 

I just have one set of threaded rods, close to each end. The wooden end pieces stay in place once the wing nuts are tightened, no matter where they're placed. Usually, I set the mold at 13-1/2", for 3# of oils, or 6# on the double ones. Once cured, the bars are a smidge over 4 oz. 

It's easy to gauge how much to adjust it when adding chunks - just figure the equivalent weight of one bar adds an inch, and adjust accordingly.


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## beaglady (Oct 7, 2002)

Chewie,

Did you ever got to make molds? If you felt uncomfortable cause I offered to send you plans, sorry 'bout that. I was just excited to share, cause I really like them. I do CAD for my job and drew up plans for my molds at lunchtime.


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## chewie (Jun 9, 2008)

oh no, don't think that! I am horribly busy with christmas orders, so haven't been on HT in days. (good to have the work, but oy! not a minute to spare!) plans would be dandy, if you have the time. a huge thank you!!

I currently use slab style, which makes 28 bars, 112 oz oils. however, with a soap calc., I'd like to size that recipe down just a tad, so it works better for 2 oz of FO's. maybe around 100 oz of oils? so getting a mold that would fit a bit smaller recipe amt is what I am needing to do, as well as the different style.


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## Tinker (Apr 5, 2004)

100 oz of oil for 2 oz FO will give you a pretty weak scent. Most places recommend .5 to 1 oz per pound of oils, depending on the strength of the scent. I wouldn't soap more that 50 oz oil with 2 oz FO. I usually go a full oz per pound, but I like mine strong.


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## Trapper (Jun 2, 2006)

_*If anybody is interested I have wood soap molds available. I sell them 2 molds with a cutting box*_. _*Trapper*_


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