# Plastic coolant res. cracked-can I use pvc glue?



## dave_p (Oct 11, 2005)

Hi, we swapped vehicles for several months with the stepdaughter, while building our lil' house (needed her truck to haul materials).She wiped out the right side in a wreck, I'm sure this reservoir was stessed at the time. And now it has started to leak while pressurized.
My options as I see them: 
#1 -buy another (money's tight this month)
#2 -try to clean it with pvc solvent and attempt to get some glue in the crack(very small). 
#3 -try to run it awile with the cap loose so it doesn't build up so much pressure.
We gotta make a 5 hour (one way) trip this week to get dw to her doctors appt. in Atl., need to make this work for a short while, any ideas?

Thanx in advance, davep


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## OkieDavid (Jan 15, 2007)

The reservoir is not under any significant pressure. The fill cap usually contains an overflow tube that is open on the end....open=no pressure. It is just a tank that receives/sends the excess coolant. You could try pvc glue but personally I would use J/B Weld or five minute epoxy.


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## BobK (Oct 28, 2004)

I doubt you could ever get the crack clean enough to glue...and PVC glue is not a void filling glue....I second the use of an epoxy for hard plastics.........


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## dave_p (Oct 11, 2005)

Thanks guys, I just tried the solvent on it and didn't notice that it softened the surface any.....so I have no confidence in the glue either. If it would soften the plastic I think it would weld the crack...but it looks like a 40 mile trip to get some epoxy in the old beater truck tomorrow!
The tank DOES seem to build a good bit of pressure before the overflow cap vents, has to run awhile before the leak opens up and makes an appearance, and still hasn't vented thru the overflow, that's why I was wondering if I could leave the cap loose w/out any adverse effect. davep


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## WayneR (Mar 26, 2007)

Dave,
If it is the same type of plastic that milk jugs are made from, you should be able to weld the crack with a soldering iron (gun) and a strip of milk jug plastic.

Practise with some scraps of jugs to familiarise yourself with the method first.
Heat a small area and feed the plastic strip into the "joint".
Test the method on one of the tank mounting flanges to be certain that the plastics are compatible.

Clean off the antifreeze too as it would interfere with bonding


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## dave_p (Oct 11, 2005)

That's a great idea....and....it could work!!! I'll experiment with it tomorrow before I drive all that distance for the epoxy. I've got an iron and a gun, which would you use?
Actually the void is very small and it might weld without filling, so Ill try a small tip on my iron. I'll let y'all know how I come out. davep


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

Its likely a polyethalene tank in which case your going to have a hard time mending it other than plastic welding. 
If it however is some other plastic or copper there are high temp epoxy puddies that will make a temp repair. 
when the radiator tank ruptured on our 66 ford pickup at the lake I repaired it with sea glass epoxy puddy it made it the 16 miles home before the back side or the tank ruptured ( the radiator was clogged)


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## Herb (Jun 25, 2006)

What is the make of the car. It could very well have a pressurized overflow tank.
You could probably apply a liberal amount of JB Weld to seal up the crack.


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## dave_p (Oct 11, 2005)

It's an '04 Kia, the tank is molded two piece, the bottom has a raised 1/4" grid for reinforcement. there are 5 stress fractures right where the grids cross, one or maybe two are actually leaking. the two nipples that the hoses attach to seem to have been glued to the tank. I think the two halves were heat sealed together, as i see no bead of glue there. davep


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## dave_p (Oct 11, 2005)

update: I tried the soldering iron with some luck, but still had a leak after reinstalling the tank. So I loosened the cap and drove the 20 miles to Tupelo where the parts stores are open on Sundays and after looking thru about 15 different epoxies finally found the ONE that is specifically for repair on radiators and coolant reservoirs. Easier to find by price....it was highest. Made by versachem part#sr214/90214 it is a fiberglass reinforced repair kit and you do have to prep the area well and move fast! Wasn't one of those double syringe mixers, comes in a pouch that you squeeze to combine the two sides and you got maybe two minutes before it gets too tacky to spread. I had 6 small places to cover, woulda been easier if the surface had been flat.
I'm waiting for 30 minutes for it to cure and then we'll see if it holds.....confidence level is HIGH. But I'll let you guys know later on for sure. Thanks for the responces, I've used JB Weld in the past, but never the other epoxies. dave_p


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## dave_p (Oct 11, 2005)

Well, back to the drawing board.... it leaked as much as before. gonna prolly make the trip with the cap loose davep


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## FreightTrain (Nov 5, 2005)

try J&B Weld epoxy after roughing the area up w sand paper


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## Herb (Jun 25, 2006)

Duct tape.


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## boonieman (Dec 28, 2005)

I'm not sure that keeping the radiator cap loose is such a good idea for that length of trip. The idea of keeping the cooling system pressurized is to raise the boing point of the water. The higher the pressure, the higher the temperature it takes to make the coolant boil. I'd go to a junk yard and get a reservoir that will fit in the opening of the busted reservoir and use it temporarily to hold your coolant as it expands. In case you existing reservoir has two hoses, the one from the radiator should go the the bottom of the reservoir. The other hose should just be an overflow tube. Test drive whatever your plan you decide on before you head out.  Best wishes on your trip.


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## dave_p (Oct 11, 2005)

Thanks, I have driven it about 60 miles today(cap loosened) with no leakage and no change in the normal range on the gauge. Might get a chance to hunt thru a couple junkyards tomorrow for a replacement. dave_p


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## WayneR (Mar 26, 2007)

Dave,
Don't give up on the welding if you can't find a replacement tank. The surface was probably contaminated with AF and that's why it didn't hold.

Try sanding the area around the leak after cleaning it. Then re-weld.

Might consider modifying the mount to help remove-relieve stress that could cause the cracking to begin with. Sponge rubber,grommets,loosen mounting screws, etc.

Might check for a recall on the part. Aren't those things (KIA) supposed to have a 10 yr warranty?


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## dave_p (Oct 11, 2005)

Hi, I just checked for recalls, found only 2 for the model, but not on the tank. The welding produced good results and I had prepped before welding. More intensive prep for the epoxy. Welding is no longer a good option because there is too much epoxy to easily remove. The mount doesn't put any pressure on the tank, already thought of that. I really think at this point it'll have to be replaced. dave_p


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## cfabe (Feb 27, 2005)

Dave, I agree that the tank should probably be replaced. On such a new vehicle it makes sense to keep it in good repair. I would be leery of any shortcut repair on such a critical component. 

Did insurance pay for the repairs from the wreck? Sounds like the shop should have replaced the resevoir but missed it, can you take it back to them to see if they will cover it under the claim for the accident?


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