# How to repair a steel hydraulic line?



## Darren (May 10, 2002)

The line developed a split under a clamp. It's a long line (about 8' long) with one right angle bend with about 1/3 of the length beyond the bend and three connections. The fluid oozes rather than sprays like a pin holed hydraulic hose. The line is shiny but not chromed. 

If necessary does anyone know of a source that fabricates such lines?


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## tinknal (May 21, 2004)

Best bet would be a full service repair tractor dealership. Depending where you live there are also businesses that specialize in hydraulics.


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## MattyD (Nov 22, 2010)

-can you move the clamp a little either way from the split? If it isn't too long, under 1/2", you could get a brass hydraulic line coupler and fix it. I did that to the rear brake lines one one of my old cars. Cut the bad part out, clean and smooth both end, then slide the brass nuts and ferrules over the lines and install the coupler. Or if the section is longer than that, you can get two couplers and a new piece of steel line and cut it to the length you need...

L8R,
Matt


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## OkieDavid (Jan 15, 2007)

Since it oozes instead of spray it sounds like a return line which opens up more repair alternatives. I suspect it could be welded but by the time you pay for that you could probably replace it. A rubber boot with two hose clamps would be my first suggestion if in fact it is a low pressure return line.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

There are four lines side by side which doesn't provide room for options. I don't know of any shops in the area that fab steel lines. I've never seen a shop advertise that capability. The other factor is the fittings although standard are metric on the outside. I suspect the steel line is metric too. I'm not sure that some of the options that work on brake lines will work on this given the metric factor and the lack of room between the lines.

The clamp uses two nuts welded to the boom of the loader. I could weld new nuts slightly forward or aft of the present location. That still doesn't give me any more room between the lines.

I'm wondering if braising will work. Welding may not work on a thin cross section. I've had problems wih clamps on high pressure lines in the past. The clamp gives me very little room for a repair. In the past I've had issues with unclamped steel (fuel) lines breaking from vibration.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

brazing will work and that is what I would do.


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## lonelytree (Feb 28, 2008)

What kind of loader?

300 or 3000 PSI?

Are factory parts available?


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

I'm guessing 2,000 psi. AFAIK, Kubota doesn't have the steel lines available as repair parts. I replaced three flex hoses earlier this year and there was very little room to get a wrench in. All of the hoses had to be removed and replaced in a certain order to use wrenches.


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## watcher (Sep 4, 2006)

Call the closest truck stop that has a shop. Ask them who does work on auto carrier trailers. That shop will at the very least point you in the right direction.


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## ace admirer (Oct 5, 2005)

braze it


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

watcher said:


> Call the closest truck stop that has a shop. Ask them who does work on auto carrier trailers. That shop will at the very least point you in the right direction.


No such animal within 150 miles at least. There are truck stops. None has a repair facility.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> I'm wondering if braising will work


It should, with a brass rod.
CLEAN it and flux it well


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## poorboy (Apr 15, 2006)

We take 'em to National Auto Parts and they make up a new one, their cheaper than buying from dealer...Should be someone in your area that will fabricate one...:happy2:


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Silver solder the pin hole(s). Look at the area closely as the clamp probably stayed wet under it and caused corrosion. Such leaks are very common. Paint the tube and the clamp before reassembling.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

poorboy said:


> We take 'em to National Auto Parts and they make up a new one, their cheaper than buying from dealer...Should be someone in your area that will fabricate one...:happy2:


This is a steel tube hydraulic line. Most shops only make up the flex hose lines with the crimp or screw on fittings. Making up a new steel asembly would probably be several hundred dollars if I could find a shop with the tubing and fitings. The line has three bends plus an intermediate connection for a total of three connections.

The tube defect looks more like a split than a pin hole. It doesn't look rust related caused by trapped moisture. I think it wore through from the clamp setup.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Darren

If the tube is just split then that is cheap seamed tubing IMO. Take a small hammer and tap the split back into position and then braze or take the tube to an auto body shop and have them to wire weld the slot shut. Body shops are accustomed to dealing with thin sheet metal. Put some type of material around the tube to isolate the clamp to avoid creating future issues.


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## coontrapper (Nov 4, 2010)

I have some lines on my tractor that I brazed ten or more years ago and their still not leaking.


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

I'll agree with the poster above, that if it's just oozing, it's likely a return line and not under pressure, so a boot will suffice. 

Look in your yellow pages under "hose" and "hydraulic" and those places listed almost always make replacement lines, including rigid lines. What they fabricate may not be oem, but it will work. Usually at least one of these businesses in every goodly sized town.


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## lonelytree (Feb 28, 2008)

Hard to believe that Kubota doesn't have the part. Maybe you just got the wrong parts person. 

Google up a Parker Store.... see if there is one near you.


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## Danaus29 (Sep 12, 2005)

This company will make new lines for you. We've used them before and were very pleased. Shipping will take some time but they did a great job on our vans brake lines.
Right Stuff | Brake Conversions, Pre-Bent Stainless Lines


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## Calhoon (May 25, 2012)

Darren said:


> The line developed a split under a clamp. It's a long line (about 8' long) with one right angle bend with about 1/3 of the length beyond the bend and three connections. The fluid oozes rather than sprays like a pin holed hydraulic hose. The line is shiny but not chromed.
> 
> If necessary does anyone know of a source that fabricates such lines?



:hrm: well Darren , it looks to me as though your hydrolic line is of cold rolled steel tubing , industrial grade , of course . . it could also be stainless. 

If it's oozing , it's prolly a return line , and not under much pressure . the thing is , it's letting air / dirt into your resovoir , and that affects line pressure , it'll make the controls feel spongy . over time , the ooze will get worse , that could be dangerous . air is compressible , hydrolic fluid is not . 

If the mfg don't carry this line , it maybe your sol . 

I'd take some muratic acid and clean the crack , and then I'd try and braze it with a Chesterton 'wonder rod' . . but it's a tricky thing , most likely , you'll just make it worse . any heat from a torch will expand the crack . 

If you have any spare slack in the line , I'd try and cut the section out , and just make a new fitting / connection. 

If all else fails , and before I put any heat on the line , I'd wrap it with a 3" by 3" rubber section from a good innertube , wrap it tight as you can , and clamp it at both ends . . 

It prolly will get you by , but it's gonna be a patch . 

I've seen such patches hold for years on return lines . 

I wish I could be of more help to you .


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