# Confused on Patterns



## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Okay, Ive sewn some throw pillows, and while those were exciting, I really wanted to get into sewing because I hate shopping. 
There is not hardly anything I like, or if there is, I dont the fabric or print..
...plus I like a lot of older "vintage" styles that arent available on todays market.


I havent seen a pattern since I was a child..
I dont hardly remember what they look like. Ive seen them available in thrift stores for $0.25, but the lot of them are mostly 80s/90s shoulder padded shirts or odd night gowns :hrm:

Since I am a beginner, I dont want to overwhelm myself with a huge project, but I also dont want to waste my time and money on something Id never wear..

I really like this free downloadable pattern, but Im not sure what its telling me..
Trace the pattern? 
Does that mean I need to print it out in actual size of the dress pieces?
What if a pattern is too big or too small?

When I have looked at patterns in the thrift store none of them are really my size.. I am a petite person with an odd body shape. 
Clothes in the stores usually hang on me weird, which is another reason Id like to make my own..


For example..
I like this dress, A, from a downloadable pattern...
http://www.sewmag.co.uk/downloads/files/iss3_pattern/sew_iss3.pdf

How do I get started with it?


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## Chixarecute (Nov 19, 2004)

That's a cute dress! I used to sew some, by no means did I alter clothes except for length.

Do you actually have the pattern, not just the link to it? I don't see a way from the link to print the pieces, nor graph lines to help you draw it to scale. I"m wondering if the pattern pieces are something that was bought, and the company comes out with different options for how to use those pattern pieces?

Oftentimes, people will make a model of the garment out of muslin, or an old sheet. This will help you learn where and how you might need to alter it, then you can adjust the pattern pieces to suit, cut from your intended fabric and sew.

I like these patterns for the clear cut directions and ease of use - great for people starting out. If you have a W--Mart near you, they carry KwikSew. I also find that the fit runs more true to size than other brands.

http://kwiksew.mccall.com/


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## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

I've always had good luck with Simplicity and Butterick, and a lot of fabric stores have periodic sales on those pattern lines. 

I would be wary of starting with a pattern you have to resize if you aren't used to sewing a lot of garments.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Thanks guys. I figured something was missing... 
Not having a printer I guess I'm going to miss out on the freebies :/
I guess I can use hobby lobbies 40% of coupon and try one out


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## Molly Mckee (Jul 8, 2006)

If you have a Handcock's near you check their ad, it's on their website. They have some patterns on sale for 1.99or less almost every week. JoAnns does as well.


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## Tommyice (Dec 5, 2010)

The Big 4 companies (McCall's, Butterick, Vogue and Simplicity) all have a section in their pattern catalogs that are for Very Easy items. Hancock's and Joann's have periodic sales, usually 0.99 to 3.99. Just keep in mind that most of those patterns will be sized for an A or B cup. Burda patterns (you can get at Joann's not sure about Hancock's or Hobby Lobby) are drafted for a C or D cup.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Oh very interesting about sizes Tommy!
There is a joannes, but the people in that place don't seem friendly. Hobby lobby is just my comfort zone
I have a friend who has a shop on etsy that sews a lot. 
She lives in the area so ill ask her of fabric stores around.. I know Monroe has none, but Im sure Athens does


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## Tommyice (Dec 5, 2010)

Depending on the style Sarah, the ones for A or B cup can be fine. I have some styles that I can use "out of the envelope" (usually loose, unconstructed looks) All the other ones, I need to adjust the patterns so that they fit properly in the bust (and therefore in the shoulders).

When in doubt, make a muslin or test garment out of a similar fabric that costs a lot less (sometimes I use old sheets or muslin fabric that I've purchased on sale)


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Good ideas with the sheets! I can usually find them cheap at thrift stores or garage sales..
Im a B myself and I always have trouble finding stuff that fits properly. 
Everything seems to be made for bigger busted women...


I was looking at hobby lobbys ad and they have Simplicity patterns for $0.99, but it doesnt include 'New Look' or 'Its So Easy'


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## Tommyice (Dec 5, 2010)

Those sales usually include the patterns that in the big pattern catalogs on the tables--those two you mentioned are "offshoots" of Simplicity and are not found in the big file drawers. They have their own display racks. 

Go to http://www.simplicity.com/ and search their online catalog. As long as it's not the It's Sew Easy or NewLook, you should be OK.


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## Taylor R. (Apr 3, 2013)

I sew for my girls with online tutorials (rather than patterns) regularly, but I haven't done much more than a simple skirts for myself without a pattern. Maybe starting with a tutorial would work well for you? It doesn't require any printing, typically.

There are some great tutorials at www.theribbonretreat.com that I've done. There's a maxi skirt/dress that I've used many times.


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## FarmChix (Mar 3, 2013)

SarahFair said:


> Thanks guys. I figured something was missing...
> Not having a printer I guess I'm going to miss out on the freebies :/
> I guess I can use hobby lobbies 40% of coupon and try one out


I don't think you print them. It refers to taking the pattern out of the envelope. I think it is just a pdf of the pattern instructions. It is a Free Pattern Club they have. I wish I had the flat tummy those gals have! Goodness!


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## Belfrybat (Feb 21, 2003)

I've PM'd you. I have some patterns you can practice on.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Thanks y'all! 

I had dinner with my sister last night and she lives right up the street from hancock fabrics. 
I totaly went into over load and left with nothing. I blame it on my sister and boyfriend who were rushing me and standing over my shoulder the whole time

I need to go sit by myself one afternoon when I have a couple hours and get nice and acquainted with everything.
I can not believe pattern prices! $17.95?!
I thought you were supposed to be able to save money making your own clothes... yikes


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## FarmChix (Mar 3, 2013)

I guess if you just wear one style and make a bunch of different items from it, it could pay for itself. With the price of fabric where it is, sometimes it is just as cost-effective to buy items from the sale racks. I wear it until it has holes in it...and that's after I have fixed it several times! LOL


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## Molly Mckee (Jul 8, 2006)

You only buy patterns on sale! Hancocks and JoAnnes have sales almost every weekend on one brand or another. Our Hancocks has McCall's (I think) 5/$5.00 this weekend, and Kwiksew for $7.95. Many smaller stores will accept the major stores coupons if you ask.

If you are buying everything to make an article of clothing at full price, you are getting original, well made at a reasonable price, but you can probably find it cheaper at low priced stores and you can get it cheaper at a resale shop or yard sale. You can save money when all you have to do is go to your stash of sale fabrics, get out your favorite sale pattern and buttons. You can save on kids clothes, especially if you can use left over fabric from another project.


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

those $17. patterns I don't buy at regular price.

You have to sign up and get the coupon mailers so you know when the $1.99 pattern sales happen, then look on line for the pattern numbers - make a list - then you can go directly to the pattern files and pull the patterns.

That's the best way to do things. You have it all together and can then go to pick out your fabrics.

And please, go when you can walk through and study the fabrics and feel them. Don't let the others rush you.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

I got to spend some time in Joanns today..
I had $20 for a new project so I looked at a skirt pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-7441-its-so-easy-misses-skirts.aspx -B-, but it called for over 4 yards of fabric.. After poking around trying to find something in my range I gave up...

What I really need is an apron so I went back and poked around some more in the pattern section and came across a simple apron that I thought was cute. It called for 2 yards of fabric. 


I think I have a better handle on going about picking out patters and reading them, not 100% sure still and its going to take a little more poking to learn how to shop the sales


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

I found the patter Im doing for the apron while looking around online...
http://butterick.mccall.com/b5875-products-44953.php?page_id=678
I picked B and for the design I picked red and white polka dot, and since the string I have at home is black, I picked solid black for the middle section

I really wanted to start it today, and I even unfolded the paper.. but since this is my first time using a pattern Im going to wait till Wednesday, when my boys go back to school


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## Valmai (Sep 29, 2004)

See if you can find a second-hand (cheap) dressmakers form.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

What's considered cheap?
I think for the new upper torso (not sure of the 'lingo' ) I've seen process of $140+

I've seen them in antique malls but they are usually for display only


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## PNWest (Mar 15, 2010)

Good for you in choosing to start with an apron. I looked at the dress you chose and in my opinion it would have been way to difficult for a beginner.

Start small, learn the terms and how to read the pattern. Try a place mat, a table runner something you can finish in about three hours of sewing so you don't get overwhelmed.

Build on your success, that will make you a happy and committed sewer.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

I actually picked up a couple yards of nice fall colored fabric I thought would look nice as a table runner for my living room coffee table ($1.50 )
But I wasn't sure of (if I needed it) the backing I should use or if I should our that stuff (its a white paper like stuff with glue, I think it starts with an 'I') between those to make it a little stiffer


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## PNWest (Mar 15, 2010)

The word you are looking for is 'interfacing' and it can be of either kind, but pellon works better if you will need to wash your runner. A runner is a good choice, it will teach you how to sew a long straight seam, how to turn a corner and how to turn your runner inside right. Have fun.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Okay so I cut and pinned my pattern yesterday, but Im not clear what to do with the pockets..


In the first picture, what is that line down from the top?
In the second picture, do i cut those dotted lines out?


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## Chixarecute (Nov 19, 2004)

The line with the arrows indicates to lay the pattern piece with the grain of fabric (parallel to the selvage) before cutting.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Not with the arrow...
I mean in the first picture, the top line (where I cut) there is a line running parallel to it (with circles below it)


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

That line if I am correct indicates a "fold" line. The circles are usually where something else is to be placed. IE the edges of the pockets top may be placed at or between the circles.
Another piece of info from a long time sewer. At one time I took some classes on pattern drafting. Most all of the big pattern makers give you up to 4 inches of give in their patterns. So the sizes may vary between each brand of pattern.
Chixarecute is right on the arrow, it should run straight with the edge of the fabric.
Years ago when Home EC was taught in school, aprons was the first thing the girls were taught to make. So in a way you are right on track in your choice.

Elaine


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Well my home ec teacher would probably have boiled over now.. :grin:
Im a visual learner and these directions seem like they are in another language. Thank goodness for youtube


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## Taylor R. (Apr 3, 2013)

Dang, I wish they would have let me make an apron!! Instead, we had to make pajama pants from an awful pattern.


You'll get the hang of it!! YouTube is a great resource, especially in crafty things that are better seen than explained sometimes.


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## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

In the second picture, you will cut the solid lines that look like >---<, and sew on the dotted lines. But don't cut there yet! Wait until the directions tell you to!


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I want to make sure of something.

Is view that you are making - the pockets have the slits and then the pocket part behind, or is it the version with the pockets on the top of the material? It will make a huge difference in how you sew them.


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## StL.Ed (Mar 6, 2011)

I've never done a "See&Sew" pattern, but most patterns come with step-by-step instructions...maybe these don't.

What does it say along that second line on part 13? Looks like it might be "cut here something something". Don't cut until it says to.. 

It looks like you are making apron style B, part number 11 is the bottom of the apron, and part 13 is the sewn-in pockets. (Does it tell you to cut 4 of part 13?)

The four dots on 13 should match up with the four dots on 11 with 'right sides' together. stitch around the rectangle between the dots on 11, then cut the lines that have the Y ends >------< Snip to the corners, but not through your stitching....

You will probably then either sew on another 13 to the first one ('wrong sides' together...maybe everything but the top line? depends on what it says there?) and pass it all through the opening...or you will pass the first pocket part 13 through the cut opening and attach the second pocket part afterwards. 

If this is confusing, feel free to ask for clarification.

Ed

eta: make sure you match the one big corner dot...if there are four pieces 13, make sure you cut two with the good side up and two with the good side down...depends on how you have folded the fabric.


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## StL.Ed (Mar 6, 2011)

Hmmm... I could also see where after you sew one part 13 to 11, you would attach a second 13, but only sew the top and sides...
after passing through, you might top stitch along that line so the edge doesn't show through the pocket opening.
All depends on what it says along that line... :hrm:


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Im stuck with "pocket welts"
It says

Step 4 - Reinforce Skirt 11 along corners of sticking lines, pivoting at small circles and large circle, as shown

5- Pin Interfacing 12 to wrong side of each welt 12 section, having edges even; baste 

6- With right sides together, fold welt sections along fold lines; stitch ends/ Trim

7- Turn; press. Baste raw edges together. Trim seam allowance to a scant (?!?!)1/4

8- Pin welt to skirt, placing seamline to lower stitching line and matching symbols. Baste

9- With right sides together, pin lining pocket 13 to skirt over welt, placing seamline along stitching line. Baste. 
Stitch between small circle and large circle. Trim pocket lining seam allowance to a scant 1/4", being careful not to cut skirt

10- With right sides together, pin fabric pocket 13 to skirt, placing seam line along upper stitching line. Baste. 
Stitch between small circles. Trim pocket seam allowance to a scant 1/4" being careful not to cut skirt

11- Slash along line between stitching, clipping diagonally to large circle and small circles

12. Turn pocket and triangular ends to inside. pulling ends of welt between symbols. as shown, turning welt up.
Press. 

13. Edgestitch upper pocket opening. Turn pocket up, edgestitch sides of welt and below seam, as shown. 
14. Stitch pocket edges together, catching welts and triangular ends in stitching, keeping front free, stitch again 1/4" away om sea, allowance. 
Trim close to stitching



Im stuck somewhere in steps 6,7,8, and possibly 9 :grin:


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## StL.Ed (Mar 6, 2011)

Welts? I hated welts for a long time, until I figured them out by thinking inside-out. :huh:

Take a look at the set-in back pockets on a pair of dress slacks. The little rolls of fabric are the welts. Does the apron have an upper and lower welt at each pocket? Or just an upper or a lower welt? 
Step 12 sounds like just a lower welt?

Step 6 - sounds like you are just folding the welt right sides together and stitching the short ends to stabilize (the interfacing will be on the outside now)

Step 7 - flip the welts right side out. trimming to 1/4 inch along the long open edge removes extra bulk, but might not be completely necessary, as long as it doesn't get in the way of the upper pocket seam later on.

Step 8 - this is where you need to start thinking inside-out. you need to set the welt upside down from where it will end up, because you will layer apron-welt-pocket, and then when you flip the pocket to the inside, the welt will do a half-flip. if the folded edge of the welt is about as far from the bottom of the rectangle as the top of the rectangle is, when you flip it, the welt will fill the opening. 
(practice with three pieces of scrap. make a welt and layer it between two pieces that are right sides together, such that all raw edges are together. run one seam along the edge, and then flip the outer two pieces along the seam. you'll see how the welt points away) 
all of the basting is to keep things in place while you stack the pieces. the trick is to get the welt ends inside when you do the flip, so be careful where you baste..try to baste only inside the rectangle.

Step 9 - sounds like you are using pocket lining rather than apron material as one of the piece 13s..so at this point the lining and welt get sewn on at the bottom of the pocket opening.

Step 10 - is building the pocket on the outside, before flipping it through the opening to the inside...trying to figure from the description, how many layers you end up with... it sounds like you sew the top of the pocket through all layers, and that will be the top of the inside of the pocket...or does it tell you not to catch the lining in? trying to picture this without a picture...I might need to pull out a pattern and do a practice pocket for all the layers...

step 11 - be careful how many layers you slash. probably the apron and lining layers, but not the top layer. Since it's only stitched at the top of the pocket, you can flip that layer up temporarily.

Step 12 - should be able to turn everything in. the welt ends will end up inside, since it is probably longer on both ends than the 4-dot rectangle.


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## StL.Ed (Mar 6, 2011)

OK. 
Step 10 verified...
Step 9 sewed together the apron, welt, and lining along the bottom seam only.

Step 10 sews together the apron, pocket lining and pocket fabric along the top seam only. (don't catch the edge of the welt)

be careful not to sew the short sides of the rectangle until after everything is flipped to the inside.

Also..
Step 11 - only cut through the apron and lining layers. depending on how short you trimmed the welt along the open edge, it might be easier to slit the apron layer from the inside, and the lining from the outside, because part of the welt is between them and could be in the way... ( I didn't trim the welt thin on my practice run, but it seems OK )


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

Those are bound/welt pockets. 


[YOUTUBE]GUUHIcpG71g[/YOUTUBE]


this seems to be how I learned to do this pocket way back in Home Ec days.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

I think its a lower welt only. The picture uses black so I cant really see (why.. why.. why?!?)

Thanks for the advice guys. Im going to read it, reread it, read it again (x10), watch the video a couple times, then mow my grass and ponder over what I just learned..
Maybe in that time it will dawn on me


I might get crazy and make it up as I go :drum:


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## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

Yikes! I've only done welt pockets a few times, and while I don't mind them, and like how they look afterwards, well, I didn't even try them until a couple years ago! (And I've been sewing for 11 years!) 

However, I will say, as with a lot of things in sewing, welt pockets are not hard, they're just fiddly. And the best way to learn to do them is to do them! Halfway through the process, it will suddenly make complete sense, and you'll wonder why you were even confused before! (At least, that's what always happens for me!)

Good luck!


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

Okay Ive read the directions a few more times, the advice here, watched videos and looked at this tutorial and 'I think I can, I think I can'
http://www.bemygoth.com/2013/05/single-welt-pocket-tutorial/


If I mess up I can just sew a mock welt, right?


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## Katskitten (Aug 5, 2010)

Try a mock welt with a scrap first, then do your pockets on your project.That way you don't mess it up... 

Elaine


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

I messed it up..
But not terrible. Luckily it's only an apron (or so I tell myself) and nothing fashionable
I can do this.. I can do this..


I'm going to look for more fabric on sale, hopefully soon, and try the other pattern with it. 
My son wants a Atlanta braves fleece robe for his birthday. At this rate it'll get some by next year 
Just kidding, christmas ...maybe


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

try the other view of the apron.

Or some simple pull on shorts without pockets.

Or a basic half apron with pockets on the top of the fabric, not set in.

You started off with something a strong beginnner or into intermediate level sewer would sew.


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## DoxieMom (Feb 2, 2007)

This isn't nearly as cute as the apron you are making, but I made this one recently. It was easy, and turned out very cute:

http://www.agirlandagluegun.com/2010/05/levi-apron.html


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## SvenskaFlicka (Nov 2, 2011)

What I recommend, Sarah, since you did the first one and it was "not terrible", go ahead and do the second one! You've already made the apron not perfect, so maybe not having so much pressure to get things just right will help you on the second. 

I agree that you did pick a pattern a little beyond your skill level, but I have also found one of the most important things in sewing is to sew what YOU want to. (Within reason.) Also, the harder patterns _do_ teach you a lot! When I was 14, my third ever clothing sewing project was a 1861 Civil War Dress. Up to that point I made a sundress and a drawstring skirt. It was WAY beyond my sewing level, but I learned a LOT and it actually turned out pretty good! 

If you absolutely hate both pockets when you are done, you can always cut out patch pockets and stitch them down on top, and no one will ever know!


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## Taylor R. (Apr 3, 2013)

http://www.theribbonretreat.com/blog/ruffles-and-buttons-apron.html

I've made this apron before, and it turned out great. It's pretty simple to make, but still looks pretty fancy. Plus, it's a pretty decent scrap buster if you've got some coordinating leftovers.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

interesting! Ill check both those out. 

After wearing the apron a little its not really that bad. The worst part was the pockets made the sides poke out a little, but after a little wearing its starting to lay proper..
Maybe its the interfacing that is making seem so stiff. 
They are a little uneven as well, but I guess if I had used calk to mark all the areas I was suppose to it wouldnt look so "tipped" - lol


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## tentance (Aug 16, 2012)

i'm not trying to change the subject... but don't forget to check thrift stores and secondhand shops for cheap fabric. sometimes you can find the coolest stuff there, people
s donated forgotten projects. I have found a lot of vintage green fabric for my living room at the local thrift store. best part is the money goes to a food pantry, yay!


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

I'm always checking thrift stores 
The SO is pretty sickened by my obsession lol


I'm going to be trying the second aprn today


Does cutting the patterns, pinning, and cutting the fabric ever adopted up? 
It took me almost an embarrassing 3 hours to orep the apron for sewing


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## Belfrybat (Feb 21, 2003)

After a while laying out the pattern and cutting the fabric will be a breeze and not take much time at all. You started with a pocket technique that would daunt an experienced sewist. I've made a couple of welted pockets in my 55+ years of sewing and hated them so figured that was a skill set I didn't need to learn. There are many easier ways of doing pockets. 

But you won't know what you like until you try it. Plus *we need pics*. As a matter of fact it's a well-know fact around here that without pics, it didn't happen. That cute goatie was not born, the chicks not hatched, the quilt square not made -- all for the lack of pics!

I stumbled on a great deal at a thrift shop last week -- a cotton-blend long "prairie style" dress with yards of fabric in the skirt. When I cut the skirt off, I had almost 3 yards of fabric for 50 cents and some neat buttons from the bodice. I bought it for quilt backing, but might make something else as it is four large pieces. I love finding bargains like that. One time I hit the store just right and ended up with 3 large bags of batting for $1.00 each. They each had a complete full-sized piece and enough smaller pieces I could combine, so I actually ended up with 4 quilt-sized batting for $3.00.


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## SeaGoat (Aug 17, 2012)

lol - Ill try and post pictures of both of them when Im done. 
Its kind of a process because I have to take it with my phone, email it to myself, save to the computer then upload it here. 
If I could upload right from my phone Id have pictures galore 


I havent even begun sewing the new apron and Ive already run into a problem! :shocked:
The bodice has 3 pieces.. and they are suppose to be curved.. but when I flip the pieces it doesnt match up. 
Grr. Youtube.


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