# Whorl question



## Heather77 (Jul 15, 2017)

So, I was thinking about my wheel... and the whorl, bobbin and flyer area. I still need to position my maidens to face the drive wheel, fit a band and maybe oil it, not that it seems squeaky or not moving smoothly... but is the whorl supposed to come off the rod that holds it and the bobbin? I haven't tried to take to off but I'm assuming you must have to switch out bobbins for some reason, right? 

Silly newbie question but you don't know if you don't ask. Thank you in advance!


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## IndyDave (Jul 17, 2017)

Generally the whorl will be fixed to the metal spindle. It may or may not be designed to be removed depending on who made it and how, which is especially relevant given that you are using an antique, but it should ride in a set of leather bearings or alternately tied to the maidens with leather strips, or in some cases fitted to a through hole through maidens which lift out of the mother of all. In any event, it should be set up such that it removes and the bobbin slides off the end while the whorl stays put at least without some deliberate effort.


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## Wind in Her Hair (Jul 18, 2002)

IndyDave said:


> n any event, it should be set up such that it removes and the bobbin slides off the end while the whorl stays put at least without some deliberate effort.


I have to disagree with IndyDave - at least in the case of ALL of the antique double-drive bobbin-lead wheels I have encountered. 

In the case of this antique "double-drive, bobbin lead" wheel, the whorl MUST be removed from the flyer axle so that the bobbin can be removed. Bobbins need to be removed so that the inside of these bobbins can be degunked and so that the flyer axle and bobbin bore hole can be lubricated. Bobbins should ride on a cushion of oil to eliminate friction and prevent drag.










Whorls are threaded and are secured to the flyer axle with a nut. Once the whorl and the nut are removed, the bobbin may be slid off and cleaned.

While it is true that you can "offload" your full bobbin without removing the bobbin from the wheel, if you have additional bobbins, you would want to change out the full bobbin with an empty one. Full bobbins may be plied together on a third empty bobbin, or "offloaded" full bobbins can be wound into center-pull balls for plying.

But lets not get too far ahead of ourselves.

Lets talk oiling (lubricating). If you drive an automobile, you know that by the time your engine starts making noise, oiling (lubricating) it might be too late. The same goes for the antique spinning wheels. The rule is to OIL your wheel, at EVERY place wood meets metal or metal meets metal or metal meets wood EVERYTIME you spin. EVERYTIME. EVERY TIME! 

This video will help you see all the points that need to be lubricated. Part 2 adds a few additional other points as well.






and


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## IndyDave (Jul 17, 2017)

I guess my memory is going dyslexic. It has been a while since I studied my books on constructing spinning wheels (which is on my list of things to do).


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## Wind in Her Hair (Jul 18, 2002)

IndyDave said:


> I guess my memory is going dyslexic. It has been a while since I studied my books on constructing spinning wheels (which is on my list of things to do).


Considering the growing variety and types of flyers and wheels available today on the world-wide market, it is easy to get them all confused! I don't know how anyone can keep them all straight.


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## IndyDave (Jul 17, 2017)

Wind in Her Hair said:


> Considering the growing variety and types of flyers and wheels available today on the world-wide market, it is easy to get them all confused! I don't know how anyone can keep them all straight.


There is indeed a great deal of variety. To complicate it further, for my purposes, not only did I undertake studying out how to build one from scratch, but my reasons led down some interesting paths. First, I was not amused with the cost of buying new, the irritations of trying to work backwards through an antique which may or may not be complete or correct, and the fact that I am of larger stature and need not only a heavily constructed/non-fragile wheel, but one which is of a comfortable size for me to operate. The net result will be a Saxony wheel closer in size to a walking wheel than a conventional Saxony, but then again, I haven't yet had time to get the red oak log I intend to use to the sawyer much less actually get started on it.


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## Heather77 (Jul 15, 2017)

Wind in Her Hair said:


> I have to disagree with IndyDave - at least in the case of ALL of the antique double-drive bobbin-lead wheels I have encountered.
> 
> In the case of this antique "double-drive, bobbin lead" wheel, the whorl MUST be removed from the flyer axle so that the bobbin can be removed. Bobbins need to be removed so that the inside of these bobbins can be degunked and so that the flyer axle and bobbin bore hole can be lubricated. Bobbins should ride on a cushion of oil to eliminate friction and prevent drag.
> View attachment 61489
> ...


Okay, so there should be a bolt that holds the whorl onto the file axel? The axel goes through the whorl... maybe I need to dab some oil on it first? Either way, I'm gonna take a peak tomorrow if I have time. I think we're canning green beans.


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## IndyDave (Jul 17, 2017)

Heather77 said:


> Okay, so there should be a bolt that holds the whorl onto the file axel? The axel goes through the whorl... maybe I need to dab some oil on it first? Either way, I'm gonna take a peak tomorrow if I have time. I think we're canning green beans.


According to Carson Cooper's _Guide to Making Spinning Wheel Flyers and Wheels_, the whorl is traditionally held to the end of the shaft by an embedded nut [which is screwed onto a threaded step in the shaft as you would see from the diagram if you had the book available to look at].


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## Wind in Her Hair (Jul 18, 2002)

This is my flyer assembly disassembled. To the right of the flyer, you can clearly see the bobbin and the end of the bobbin that has a groove carved/turned into it. One loop of your drive band will lay IN that groove. Below it, you can see the whorl (pulley). My whorl has a large chip in it. You can see the metal nut EMBEDDED in the whorl and the chip reveals the groove in the whorl. THAT is the groove that the second loop of the drive bend will lay in.


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## Wind in Her Hair (Jul 18, 2002)

This is the end of the flyer axle. You can see the thread near the end that the whorl EMBEDDED nut will screw into. This nut is reverse threaded, so RIGHT is loosey and LEFT is tighty in this instance.


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## Wind in Her Hair (Jul 18, 2002)

This is the embedded nut in the whorl. Hope this helps!


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## Heather77 (Jul 15, 2017)

The whole "righty tighty, lefty loosey" thing has always confused me for some reason. Like I'm starting to suspect I was dropped as a baby... I guess I can take a peek while the pressure canner is cooling off. And your pictures are insanely helpful. You have no idea how grateful I am.


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## Wind in Her Hair (Jul 18, 2002)

it is my great pleasure to try and help.

I was all alone when I got my first wheel and I know how frustrating it is not to have any idea what you are doing. 

There are many many good you tubes out there - just be careful not to take the instructions or advice for scotch tension wheels when what you have is a double drive wheel.

I also recommend tackling the mechanics of your wheel in a very quiet and calm moment when your brain is not fried.  I found about 4:30am to be ideal.


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## Heather77 (Jul 15, 2017)

Wind in Her Hair said:


> it is my great pleasure to try and help.
> 
> I was all alone when I got my first wheel and I know how frustrating it is not to have any idea what you are doing.
> 
> ...


 Okay, no scotch tension wheel advice! Now since I'm not up at 430 in the morning, I'm not sure when my brain isn't fried. That might be a trick. It's going to be hot again this afternoon, maybe my uncle will take a nap and not need my help for anything. One can hope. I still haven't managed to look at my wheel. There was a speaker needing changed and chickens making a break for the road. At least it's always entertaining here.


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## IndyDave (Jul 17, 2017)

OK, if you are feeling really adventurous in the realm of building and maintaining spinning wheels...

http://www.ztwist.com/WheelMakersCraft.htm


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## Heather77 (Jul 15, 2017)

IndyDave said:


> OK, if you are feeling really adventurous in the realm of building and maintaining spinning wheels...
> 
> http://www.ztwist.com/WheelMakersCraft.htm


You know, this might be fun. I'll need more tools... that's my mind if a shopping spree though! I'll look into it!


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## Heather77 (Jul 15, 2017)

I did finally get a minute to play with my flyer. Got it apart safely but had to oil it as I got the whorl off... I'm not sure if it was rust, dust, lint or just random junk... the bobbin wanted to fit me too but it submitted. Everything got oiled. I used gun oil because I had that handy. Not a lot. I figured start with just a little, I can add more later? But it moves better. Next the drive band. It should be hot again tomorrow but then it's supposed to cool off. That means I'll need to get the rest of the carrots dug and canned, maybe the beets and probably another batch of beans. At least I'm not in a hurry since I don't have anything to spin yet anyway. Nor have I gotten the treadling down yet. Baby steps!


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## Bob Johnsun (May 21, 2017)

Wind in Her Hair said:


> Considering the growing variety and types of flyers and wheels available today on the world-wide market, it is easy to get them all confused! I don't know how anyone can keep them all straight.


 hell I've been confused I've been read this to figure out what you're talking about I get it now though . Smile


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## Knitter learning to spin (8 mo ago)

Wind in Her Hair said:


> …. This nut is reverse threaded, so RIGHT is loosey and LEFT is tighty in this instance.


Thank you thank you! This was just the information I needed! Got a wheel from an old friend’s mother which needs a few repairs and scotch tension is missing but this helped me remove the bobbin without breaking anything!


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