# SFG and potatoes question



## redgate (Sep 18, 2008)

I am using the SFG method this year, and using stacking boxes on the seed potatoes to encourage upward growth instead of outward growth. The idea is to encourage the plant to grow up instead of spread, and fill each consecutive box with potatoes. The problem is, my potatoes have taken off. I am literally seeing 8-12 inches of growth PER WEEK right now and it got way ahead of me!!! It's barely June, so surely it isn't too late to salvage the production, but how? I want potatoes not branches and leaves. Should I trim the extra branches off, go back to the main stem, and then box them up and fill with soil until only the top leaves are showing? Right now, there are so many branches, the branches almost fill my boxes, leaving little room for potatoes. I'm just not sure if pruning will harm the plant or production overall, or encourage it to fix itself? Any advise would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks in advance!


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

You "lost" them when you neglected them at a critical time in growth. You should have added the next box as soon as leaves emerged. Production now has already been determined by the number of stolons which were produced. You can stack boxes 10' tall now and you'll still only find the tubers just above where the seed piece was. 

The huge number of branches is probably due to multiple plants which would definitely result in filling a 1' box. For successful SFG, you want just one seed piece with one good eye. 

Martin


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## redgate (Sep 18, 2008)

Only one small seed potato section was planted in each square foot. They were only about a foot tall when I added the first box and more soil, so I thought that's what I was supposed to do? Then I buried them up to the top branches. Then they exploded. I am not kidding. In just 2 weeks time, those exposed leaves branched out and shot out in every direction, and are approaching 2 feet tall now! I do have some that aren't that big yet, so I can possibly still salvage them. Still, though, they have branched out and some are in the flowering stage. One of my books says to prune branches to main stem, add a box and soil, and it will return it back to the rooting stage. Am I understanding this correctly?


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

redgate said:


> Only one small seed potato section was planted in each square foot. They were only about a foot tall when I added the first box and more soil, so I thought that's what I was supposed to do?


What did the instructions call for? Did they say to wait until there was a foot of growth before adding more soil? Even half that assures that the stacking for more production is defeated. The time to add more soil is just when the plant is emerging. All you did was bury the stem and branches. Those branches were already established as such and will never turn into stolons or roots. 

Martin


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## redgate (Sep 18, 2008)

Wow, this seems confusing. I haven't done potatoes this way before. My books were saying when there is 8-12 inches of growth or so, then bury them so just the top few leaves are poking out. And like I said, another book said if they get too bushy, to prune out branches back to main stem, bury it, and start the whole process over.


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

redgate said:


> Wow, this seems confusing. I haven't done potatoes this way before. My books were saying when there is 8-12 inches of growth or so, then bury them so just the top few leaves are poking out. And like I said, another book said if they get too bushy, to prune out branches back to main stem, bury it, and start the whole process over.


You were late but did it exactly right. Just bury the plants and you get more potatoes higher up. 

P.S. I like to keep the plants 6-12" tall. This is when they are growing vigorously; smaller they are growing slow because they are small. Bigger they are reaching there near max height.


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## where I want to (Oct 28, 2008)

redgate said:


> Wow, this seems confusing. I haven't done potatoes this way before. My books were saying when there is 8-12 inches of growth or so, then bury them so just the top few leaves are poking out. And like I said, another book said if they get too bushy, to prune out branches back to main stem, bury it, and start the whole process over.


I've never done this so have not experience to offer but what harm will come of doing what the book says. It will be interesting to hear about your results whether this is good or bad.


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

redgate said:


> I am using the SFG method this year, and using stacking boxes on the seed potatoes to encourage upward growth instead of outward growth. The idea is to encourage the plant to grow up instead of spread, and fill each consecutive box with potatoes. The problem is, my potatoes have taken off. I am literally seeing 8-12 inches of growth PER WEEK right now and it got way ahead of me!!! It's barely June, so surely it isn't too late to salvage the production, but how? I want potatoes not branches and leaves. Should I trim the extra branches off, go back to the main stem, and then box them up and fill with soil until only the top leaves are showing? Right now, there are so many branches, the branches almost fill my boxes, leaving little room for potatoes. I'm just not sure if pruning will harm the plant or production overall, or encourage it to fix itself? Any advise would be greatly appreciated!!
> 
> Thanks in advance!


First of all, Redgate, welcome to the forum. Paquebot is completely right. Unless your books showed actual pictures of the end of the season results, they are wrong. Once an upward potato stem breaks the soil, finds sunlight and turns green, you'll get no more potato stolons from it--only what is under the soil will form stolons. You can't rebury a green stem and get more stolons. And giving them a haircut will just cut off photosynthesis that the underground potatoes need for their bulking growth.

And, DNA will limit the stolon production of the underground stem to a finite length on the underground stem portion--which, in my experience, is about four to six inches, max. You can play with vertical stretching to try to maximize the number of stolons you get, but, to me, you can simply plant your seeds at that depth and let Nature have its way.

Finally, you must remember that there is more going on underground than just tuber production. A seed piece of proper size, and with three to four eyes(making three to four upwards stems) will need a root space of about eighteen to twenty four inches in diameter, in order to collect all the water and nutrients such a hill will require. You'll get optimum results by not crowding them.

geo


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## a'ightthen (Mar 17, 2012)

In 2008 I chased Yukon Gold, All Blue and Red Pontiac into the 5' range ...










Nothing but a few taters in the bottom. From what I have seen, a late season tater works best and apparently up North.

Down here, I found that the added heat and lack of knowing just how much moisture was where was not worth the effort.

Hope that it works a lot better for you .... but was a wash out here and agree with Martin and Geo.


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

The issue some have with growing potatoes in barrels has nothing to do with the potato plant. Any part of the plant can be harvested and propagated. Leaves can make stem and roots. Roots can make stem and leaves. Stems can make leaves, and roots,. A potato you eat is just a fat stem. The stem has no particular interesting property. Potatoes can and do form above ground in full sun. The plant doesn't care. Just don't eat them.

The knowledge being passed around here would have potatoes out of the ground and extinct in 2 or 3 generations. They only grow up from the seed. They have "special" stems that produce potatoes that are anti light. You all know they grow wild in some parts of the world. 

The issue is growing conditions; irrigation, heat, sun hours. Most people just don't have the right growing conditions for good container potatoes. 
#1 Lots of moisture, easy irrigate. If it dries out it will harden off the tubers. If it's too wet rot.
#2 too much heat, needs the roots to be 55-65. the top needs to be 60-70 for best growth... Hard to do. Higher than the range, no potato growth, cooler the plant hardens off the potato for winter storage no more growth.
Short sun hours like one would have in a small back yard. means tuber formation and hardening off for winter. No more growth.


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

stanb999 said:


> A potato you eat is just a fat stem. The stem has no particular interesting property. Potatoes can and do form above ground in full sun. The plant doesn't care. Just don't eat them.


Not entirely true! The so-called Irish potato is not a fat stem. It is a tuber formed on a modified branch called a stolon. A sweet potato IS a modified portion of a stem or root.



> The knowledge being passed around here would have potatoes out of the ground and extinct in 2 or 3 generations. They only grow up from the seed. They have "special" stems that produce potatoes that are anti light. You all know they grow wild in some parts of the world.


Again, the potatoes are not produced on "special" stems but stolons. When grown shallow enough so that the stolons have to produce their tubers above the soil surface, the stolons are very short so that they do not dry out. The tubers would be formed in a tight ring just above the base of the plant.

Martin


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## katydidagain (Jun 11, 2004)

IME you want to keep potato "vines" covered so that only their tips are showing for at least the 1st month of active growth--even if it means hilling 3x daily. Then relax because you're done and so are they. I prefer using straw because it's very easy.


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

Paquebot said:


> Not entirely true! The so-called Irish potato is not a fat stem. It is a tuber formed on a modified branch called a stolon. A sweet potato IS a modified portion of a stem or root.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*stoÂ·lon *

/&#712;st&#333;l&#601;n/
Noun


A creeping horizontal plant stem or runner that takes root at points along its length to form new plants.
An arching stem of a plant that roots at the tip to form a new plant, as in the bramble.


Synonyms
runner


potatoes have long stolons if your conditions will let them. It is a negative trait that can get in the way of machine harvest. "Wild" potatoes can have stolons that are up to 15 feet long. 


For potatoes to grow to the max you need the proper growing conditions. This starts with a long growing season 120-150 days. cool temps 65-75. Weekly rain with well drained soil. The hardest to do for most of us. 12 hours of light, not more. Violate any one of these and your potato plant will signal tuber formation.


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

stanb999 said:


> *stoÂ·lon *
> 
> /&#712;st&#333;l&#601;n/
> Noun
> ...


Stolons, in the case of Irish potatoes, are NOT runners. Runners, as described above, are not a method of potato propagation, either cultivated or wild. Potato stolons also will not develop roots at any point between the parent plant and the tuber. The only potential additional plant growth in one season would be when a tuber sprouts and another plant forms. This usually happens only if a tuber develops close to the surface.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stolon

Martin


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

For the OP, you appear to be combining bits of information from several sources which may possibly be in conflict due to different methods. I saw every single episode of Mel Bartholomew's TV series "Square Foot Gardening" the first that they were aired and tried many of his ideas over the years. His advice would be the only one which I would accept were I to employ his gardening method. If one of your sources is his book _Square Foot Gardening_, follow that one.

www.melbartholomew.com

Martin


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## dirtman (Sep 15, 2011)

I'm not an adept gardener but I have tried to grow potatoes everyway possible, from barrels to buckets to deep beds and traditional rows. Last year I started 2 ft down in a raised bed and covered the growth every couple of days thinking that I would get potatoes all the way to the top. When all was said and done I had to dig down two feet to get a fairly meager three of four spuds from each plant. A tremendous amount of work for no reward. This year I just planted traditional long rows 6 inches down in compost and I am sure I will do a hundred percent better.


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

Paquebot said:


> Stolons, in the case of Irish potatoes, are NOT runners. Runners, as described above, are not a method of potato propagation, either cultivated or wild. Potato stolons also will not develop roots at any point between the parent plant and the tuber. The only potential additional plant growth in one season would be when a tuber sprouts and another plant forms. This usually happens only if a tuber develops close to the surface.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stolon
> 
> Martin


Right there is an illustration of a potato stolon making a new plant in the very same year... 









Hmmm... Not a stem you say?











Faked pictures? The actual plant disagrees with your statement on roots.


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

dirtman said:


> I'm not an adept gardener but I have tried to grow potatoes everyway possible, from barrels to buckets to deep beds and traditional rows. Last year I started 2 ft down in a raised bed and covered the growth every couple of days thinking that I would get potatoes all the way to the top. When all was said and done I had to dig down two feet to get a fairly meager three of four spuds from each plant. A tremendous amount of work for no reward. This year I just planted traditional long rows 6 inches down in compost and I am sure I will do a hundred percent better.


Careful with compost and potatoes... They grow great plants if they get a lot of nitrogen, but few potatoes.


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

stanb999 said:


> *stoÂ·lon *
> 
> /&#712;st&#333;l&#601;n/
> Noun
> ...


 
Not too sure I can agree with the part about "twelve hours, not more". That would make potato production only possible for the southern regions of the USA, not Idaho, Maine, Wisconsin, Mighigan , and all the provinces of Canada--which are long day areas--and where the most potatoes are grown.

Also, the Canadian Food Institute, which maintains a huge database of the known potato varieties, lists the following table of growing days:
*Very early:* 65 to 70 days.
*Early:* 70 to 90 days.
*Mid-season:* 90 to 110 days.
*Late:* 110 to 130 days.
*Very late:* 130 days and more
Not sure where you are getting the 120--150 growing days statement....

geo


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

geo in mi said:


> Not too sure I can agree with the part about "twelve hours, not more". That would make potato production only possible for the southern regions of the USA, not Idaho, Maine, Wisconsin, Mighigan , and all the provinces of Canada--which are long day areas--and where the most potatoes are grown.
> 
> Also, the Canadian Food Institute, which maintains a huge database of the known potato varieties, lists the following table of growing days:
> *Very early:* 65 to 70 days.
> ...


A potato planted in the above areas will grow, reach partial maturity and harden off. This gives an expected yield of average size potatoes. They are what is in high demand for the consumer. The principle reason potatoes are grown in the north is the temperature preference of the plant. (not a lot of folks wish to farm at 8000 ft in the Andes, where the conditions for the plant would be even better.  ) It wants it sunny and cool. Hard to have that in the south. The sun hours affect the plant very profoundly and builds the myth that potato plants don't do as I outlined above, to the point of my needing to have pictures in the post to prove it. Potatoes reproduce via stolons and seed. If the conditions are correct the potato plant will have it's stolons make plants, if not it makes swollen tubers for energy storage. More plants more tubers... When conditions are poor it will produce tubers only. 


The OP wasn't asking about growing potatoes in the ground for an average yield. They asked about growing potatoes for an exceptional yield in a container or bucket. The issues with doing so are many and most can't give them the conditions they need. Results can be good if the proper conditions are met however. For instance a potato can sprout several new stems that will form plants that will form potatoes and so forth and so on for much longer than the listed times. One potato piece can fill a tub if the conditions are right. Those times listed are the time it takes to get a single dig/growth cycle. Not at all what we are talking about.


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

stanb999 said:


> Right there is an illustration of a potato stolon making a new plant in the very same year...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The two artist renditions which you chose contradict each other. One shows the tuber forming on a "stolon" and the other on a "stem". Both also show tubers forming below the seed pieces, something which also is contradictory under most growing conditions. If you are going to use more than one depiction to back up a claim, best thing is that they are in agreement with each other. 

Martin


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

Paquebot said:


> The two artist renditions which you chose contradict each other. One shows the tuber forming on a "stolon" and the other on a "stem". Both also show tubers forming below the seed pieces, something which also is contradictory under most growing conditions. If you are going to use more than one depiction to back up a claim, best thing is that they are in agreement with each other.
> 
> Martin


A stolon is a stem. A stem is a stolon. 

So which simple sketch don't you like the one from the Canadian government or the one from the international working group?

You made assertions that are obviously incorrect. It's ok just adjust to reality.


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## redgate (Sep 18, 2008)

Wow. No wonder I get so confused. Everyone seems to have their own belief. So, I figured, why not? What do I have to lose? If their done, their done, but why not try. So, I added more boxes, pruned them back to the main stem and for some of the bushiest, I left a couple other stems, (leaving plenty of leaves on top for photosynthesis). I filled the boxes with dirt, and then, on a whim, decided to pop another seed potato into the top box. That way, I figure if the original plant is truly not going to produce, then perhaps the newer one will fill my boxes. Better than letting the leftover seed potatoes rot in the barn, right? We'll see what happens!


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

redgate said:


> Wow. No wonder I get so confused. Everyone seems to have their own belief. So, I figured, why not? What do I have to lose? If their done, their done, but why not try. So, I added more boxes, pruned them back to the main stem and for some of the bushiest, I left a couple other stems, (leaving plenty of leaves on top for photosynthesis). I filled the boxes with dirt, and then, on a whim, decided to pop another seed potato into the top box. That way, I figure if the original plant is truly not going to produce, then perhaps the newer one will fill my boxes. Better than letting the leftover seed potatoes rot in the barn, right? We'll see what happens!



From the SFGFoundation
[YOUTUBE]oH1Z_dUEgIg[/YOUTUBE]

Good luck.


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

stanb999 said:


> A stolon is a stem. A stem is a stolon.
> 
> So which simple sketch don't you like the one from the Canadian government or the one from the international working group?
> 
> You made assertions that are obviously incorrect. It's ok just adjust to reality.


When you get yourself all untangled, you can explain why your initial claim was that a stolon was a runner by using the definition which only applies to a rhizome or tip-rooting form of propagation. In rare or mutant instances, anything is possible but that is definitely not the norm in potatoes, domesticated or wild. I have 192 hills planted and representing 15 varieties including one which can be propagated by saving seed. Regardless of variety, I fully expect to find no tuber beyond 6" from the parent plant. I also fully expect to find zero new plants which may come up from any runner. All other potato growers worldwide should expect the same growth pattern. 

Martin


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

redgate said:


> I filled the boxes with dirt, and then, on a whim, decided to pop another seed potato into the top box. That way, I figure if the original plant is truly not going to produce, then perhaps the newer one will fill my boxes. Better than letting the leftover seed potatoes rot in the barn, right? We'll see what happens!


You've now switched to another method of obtaining a lot of production from a small surface area. Using tires or boxes, the initial planting is in the center. After that plant has grown tall enough to accommodate another tier, a second piece is planted between the first and the edge. Eventually one ends up with 5 tiers and 5 plants. When taken apart, there are potatoes from top to bottom. Depending upon variety, richness of soil, and proper care, one could obtain up to 25 pounds in an area of just a few square feet. Major drawback is that just one act of negligence or deviation at the wrong time may result in considerable disappointment. In other words, it can be done by anyone but not everyone will enjoy success. 

Martin


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

Paquebot said:


> When you get yourself all untangled, you can explain why your initial claim was that a stolon was a runner by using the definition which only applies to a rhizome or tip-rooting form of propagation. In rare or mutant instances, anything is possible but that is definitely not the norm in potatoes, domesticated or wild. I have 192 hills planted and representing 15 varieties including one which can be propagated by saving seed. Regardless of variety, I fully expect to find no tuber beyond 6" from the parent plant. I also fully expect to find zero new plants which may come up from any runner. All other potato growers worldwide should expect the same growth pattern.
> 
> Martin


We are strait then...
You don't fully appreciate the growth aspects of the potato. 
All you need to learn is available on the net have at it.

Please stop spreading misinformation or get facts that back your assertions. I gave pictures and can start citing studies. Can you? You have claimed authority, bring forth the fruit.

for the rest
p.s. google "argumentum ad antiquitatem" "Argumentum ad nauseam", "Argumentum ad Naturam" and finally "Argumentum ad numerum"


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## where I want to (Oct 28, 2008)

I know I'm going to be sorry- probably beat up from both sides which I will deserve for sticking my nose where is doesn't belong.
But I bet anything that those drawings, both of them, were either from a photograph or an actual plant that was pulled up by some prof and handed to a draftsman, either scientific or not, who reproduced what he saw- potatoes dangling out of dirt. He would have no idea how the potatoes grew in the ground. And someone could have actually directed him to add something to make it a more useful illustration.
From personal experience,I say a drawing like that can be reproduced ad infinitum whether right or wrong while people are assuming that it represents the whole scientific picture. When what it actually represents is what one person wanted to show at one point for one reason and may or may not be correct.


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

where I want to said:


> I know I'm going to be sorry- probably beat up from both sides which I will deserve for sticking my nose where is doesn't belong.
> But I bet anything that those drawings, both of them, were either from a photograph or an actual plant that was pulled up by some prof and handed to a draftsman, either scientific or not, who reproduced what he saw- potatoes dangling out of dirt. He would have no idea how the potatoes grew in the ground. And someone could have actually directed him to add something to make it a more useful illustration.
> From personal experience,I say a drawing like that can be reproduced ad infinitum whether right or wrong while people are assuming that it represents the whole scientific picture. When what it actually represents is what one person wanted to show at one point for one reason and may or may not be correct.


Could be true... But look for an illustration that doesn't show potatoes below the mother.

https://www.google.com/search?q=pot...34,d.dmg&fp=21ac2df64faa6f9d&biw=1024&bih=667


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

7,560,000 sites available on Bing about how potatoes grow. If one looks beyond the first page, one can find anything and everything to confirm or deny any claim. Take your pick as to which bit of information or misinformation better suits your liking at any given moment irregardless of it being factual or fictional. 

www.bing.com/search?q=how+potatoes+grow&src=IE-SearchBox&FORM=IE8SRC

Martin


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

Paquebot said:


> 7,560,000 sites available on Bing about how potatoes grow. If one looks beyond the first page, one can find anything and everything to confirm or deny any claim. Take your pick as to which bit of information or misinformation better suits your liking at any given moment irregardless of it being factual or fictional.
> 
> www.bing.com/search?q=how+potatoes+grow&src=IE-SearchBox&FORM=IE8SRC
> 
> Martin



And the very first picture...











Now that is funny. 

P.S. *"Argumentum ad verecundiam" and a bit of *
*"Argumentum ad populum"*


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

where I want to said:


> I know I'm going to be sorry- probably beat up from both sides which I will deserve for sticking my nose where is doesn't belong.
> But I bet anything that those drawings, both of them, were either from a photograph or an actual plant that was pulled up by some prof and handed to a draftsman, either scientific or not, who reproduced what he saw- potatoes dangling out of dirt. He would have no idea how the potatoes grew in the ground. And someone could have actually directed him to add something to make it a more useful illustration.
> From personal experience,I say a drawing like that can be reproduced ad infinitum whether right or wrong while people are assuming that it represents the whole scientific picture. When what it actually represents is what one person wanted to show at one point for one reason and may or may not be correct.


The black and white illustration shown in this thread is a take off from a copyrighted book: Advances in Potato Chemistry and Technology Page 221, Illustration 11-2, by Paul C. Struik. What the illustration in this thread ommitted was the description of "3) stolon turning into an underground lateral stem" (A lateral stem of the same plant, NOT a new plant)

You are exactly correct in your statement above that this illustration can be presented ad infinitum, and unfortunately by someone who who does know what he is talking about.........

The book listed here is the international "bible" of the current scientific knowlege about all aspects of the potato, and since it is copyrighted material, I can only refer you to Google books if you would want to download the whole ebook for $128......

geo


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

geo in mi said:


> The black and white illustration shown in this thread is a take off from a copyrighted book: Advances in Potato Chemistry and Technology Page 221, Illustration 11-2, by Paul C. Struik. What the illustration in this thread ommitted was the description of "3) stolon turning into an underground lateral stem" (A lateral stem of the same plant, NOT a new plant)
> 
> You are exactly correct in your statement above that this illustration can be presented ad infinitum, and unfortunately by someone who who does know what he is talking about.........
> 
> ...



And what is missing from your informative contribution is the plantlet can survive if the parent is removed once roots are established as shown in the picture. If the parent goes dormant the child plant can also grow and produce more tubers of it's own.

It's one of the ways to propagate for certified seed. They are looking into plant hormones that can force the plant to produce these and not produce disease harboring tubers.


FYI all your potato plants are continuations of the parent. None are "new" plants. Unless started by seed. Do you do this?

P.S. thank you for proving my point.


P.P.S Here is a link to a page with the notorious black and white image... I don't see one here. This one is free! It shows the tubers below the mother plainly. Stage IV or 4 


http://www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/crops/potatoes/bda04s02.html


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## a'ightthen (Mar 17, 2012)

redgate said:


> Wow. No wonder I get so confused. Everyone seems to have their own belief. So, I figured, why not? What do I have to lose? If their done, their done, but why not try. So, I added more boxes, pruned them back to the main stem and for some of the bushiest, I left a couple other stems, (leaving plenty of leaves on top for photosynthesis). I filled the boxes with dirt, and then, on a whim, decided to pop another seed potato into the top box. That way, I figure if the original plant is truly not going to produce, then perhaps the newer one will fill my boxes. Better than letting the leftover seed potatoes rot in the barn, right? We'll see what happens!


 There ya go. Most of the fun/experience is in trying and watching. Have at it, enjoy the time spent and hopefully reap a bountiful harvest.

I think that the added seed will be a big help for you.

I too get confused in these discussions/debates. They all seem to revert to theory, possibilities and potential.

Who would not love to get a wheelbarrow full of taters from but a few sq ft of land?

But even here, the discussion has invoked taters developing below the mother and all along I thought that we were talking about going up?

I've seen, in this thread, advice from as soon as the tips break the extra ground to 12".

Let us skip theory and talk practice. Weather, watering, location, varieties, methods, depths, day length and harvest!!! 

I have a full season of pics from where I tried and failed ... let us see a season of personal success so that we may learn and follow.

Personal success and direction would be most appreciated.


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## stanb999 (Jan 30, 2005)

a'ightthen said:


> There ya go. Most of the fun/experience is in trying and watching. Have at it, enjoy the time spent and hopefully reap a bountiful harvest.
> 
> I think that the added seed will be a big help for you.
> 
> ...


I don't believe that these types of growing techniques buckets/boards and boxes/pails/bags work better than simple in the ground planting. They can work for a crop where none would otherwise be possible like an apartment or town house patio. I don't believe this statement would be opposed by those on the opposite side of the debate.

My reasoning is that the plant in just about all locations can't have the conditions it needs for sustained long term growth so your actual yield will be the same as or less than standard plantings. Backyard gardeners like it because of the "ease" of planting and harvest. But IMHO it isn't that hard to do standard plantings for even a fairly large patch that produces several hundred pounds of spuds.


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## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

Planting in layers/tiers is the surest method to obtain more than average production from a given area of square feet. The plant/plants on the first layer become established and their stolons developed before the next layer is established. Since the second set of seed pieces are set over an area which is not taken up by the first, there is room for normal root and stolon development. When the third set of pieces are placed, that takes care of all of the surface area of whatever structure is used. In each of the second and third layers, the root systems are not a major competition for the one under them. And as long as all of the plants are able to properly mature, all will produce tubers.

Martin


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## geo in mi (Nov 14, 2008)

a'ightthen said:


> There ya go. Most of the fun/experience is in trying and watching. Have at it, enjoy the time spent and hopefully reap a bountiful harvest.
> 
> I think that the added seed will be a big help for you.
> 
> ...


This thread seems to be provoking more circumnabular argumention than most of the potato discussions have done, so no more comment from me except that I stand by my first reply to the OP and I am willing to let the OP's experience be the judge, since he/she has already decided to go as is, with the addition of one more seed piece above whatever is already there.

geo


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