# Growing in straight compost?



## whinnyninny (Aug 17, 2005)

It says on the Square Foot Gardening website that it can be done... have any of you tried it?

http://www.squarefootgardening.com/index.php/Starting/inexpensive-ideas.html

I have six 4'x4' planters and two 1'x10' vertical planters in my garden. I have three of the 4'x4' planters filled with the "Mel's Mix" and one more bag of vermiculite (enough to do 1.5 of the remaining three 4'x4' planters)... however, I'm having a pretty hard time getting my hands on some vermiculite! I haven't been able to find anywhere around me that carries it in the large 4 cu ft bags, and the place I've been getting it from is 80 miles away (near my old house) but they sell out of it very fast, only get a couple bags at a time, and aren't interested in special ordering any for me . 

But compost is really easy to find! Do any of you have any success growing stuff in compost? What about compost/peat moss combined? At the very least, I have a space along the front of my house where we are going to put in a raised bed and grow some decorative flowers there (the spot is mostly shaded during the summer, from our trees), since they're for decoration only (I'm not getting anything "useful" from them) should I try to do it cheaply and grow them in a mixture of composts?


----------



## Lawbag (May 10, 2005)

I've successfully grow everything from lettuce and tomatoes to potatoes, winter squash, and carrots in mushroom compost. Also mushroom compost/peat moss. Got a dump truck full of mushroom compost one year and successful grew stuff in it for years. Tomatoes, winter squash, and lettuce grew especially well.


----------



## RAHN (Mar 10, 2009)

The only real drawback to not using the vermiculite is that you will have to water your garden more often. Part of the trick to the SF method is that the high nutrient value of the blended soil and the ability that the vermiculite gives it to hold water really work well together to allow the high intensity production that SF can provide.


----------



## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

That paragraph on the SFG site is totally ridiculous! "It is very important to remember that the compost needs to be made from several different ingredients in order to provide enough nutrients for the plants. If you are able to buy compost, buy several kinds and mix it together." Huh? That doesn't sound like something which came from Mel Bartholomew!

One may buy any type of compost and grow directly in it. The amount of nutrients depend upon what it was before it was composted. Most is a combination of manures and straw or wood and would have enough nutrients to supply a lot of nutrients. If it's spent mushroom compost or leaf mold, very little nutritional value remains. 

Martin


----------



## chamoisee (May 15, 2005)

I grew my tomatoes in straight compost last year. I've also grown squash and pumpkins in straight manure (well, not 100%, it was mixed in with spent hay stems) and got wonderful crops that way.


----------



## steve-in-kville (Nov 12, 2005)

Rabbit manure is great... there is no heat cycle. We use the layer garden method and my boys dump the rabbit trays right on top around tomato and pepper plants. I've seeded pumpkins and lettuce right on rabbit manure and it worked great.


----------



## whinnyninny (Aug 17, 2005)

Paquebot said:


> That paragraph on the SFG site is totally ridiculous! "It is very important to remember that the compost needs to be made from several different ingredients in order to provide enough nutrients for the plants. If you are able to buy compost, buy several kinds and mix it together." Huh? That doesn't sound like something which came from Mel Bartholomew!
> 
> One may buy any type of compost and grow directly in it. The amount of nutrients depend upon what it was before it was composted. Most is a combination of manures and straw or wood and would have enough nutrients to supply a lot of nutrients. If it's spent mushroom compost or leaf mold, very little nutritional value remains.
> 
> Martin



I have the book and he explains that commercial compost can often be made from just one ingredient (byproducts of some food manufacturing industry or other, their "leftovers"), and we never know exactly what the composts we buy are made from, so it's best to get several different brands so we can get a wide variety of ingredients (though we still don't know what they are).


----------



## Jenn (Nov 9, 2004)

When I moved here the dirt was bad and I was convinced (good idea it turns out) to use raised beds to prevent the slope and torrential rains from "washing the butter beans down to the kitchen door" as one local described of his garden. Had some dirt from construction and plenty of packing boxes. Built a frame, covered grass with cardboard boxes, put in construction dirt preferably but not always top soil, topped with several inches bought compost. Some beds were all compost no dirt. Did very well and am probably now seeing a drop off in productivity since my additions of a smaller amount of homemade compost probably don't add as much fertility.


----------



## Woodroe (Oct 28, 2005)

I think some commercial compost is just ground up wooden pallets.


----------



## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

Woodroe said:


> I think some commercial compost is just ground up wooden pallets.


In order to make compost, one must have a certain ratio of green/nitrogen to brown/carbon. The most common and easily composted carbon is wood. That may be sawdust, wood shavings, or wood chips. If there isn't brown material in compost, it ain't true compost.

Martin


----------



## stormwalker (Oct 27, 2004)

Instead of buying "compost"- Take a trip around your county and acquire some right from the farm! Most horse farms are more than happy to accommodate you. I was happy to give it to anyone who asked.


----------



## DKR82 (Apr 5, 2008)

I just increased the depth of my raised beds from 6" to 12". I got free sheep poo and compost (with some fairly fresh manure mixed in) from the cattle yards of the university, and used this to add on top of my existing soil. Can I plant directly in this, or should I put a layer of top soil on top? I think everything should be ok, but a neighbor seems concerned. Please help!

DK in KS


----------



## brody (Feb 19, 2009)

most fresh manure is too "hot" to plant directly into 

compost is fine 

I have played wth compost reciepes for many years while the ideal ratios are all fine and well and material does compost faster when in the "correct" portions in my experience if you have lots of material to compost the receipe can be a little looser then many books would suggest ... if my compost is getting wet/moldy/smelly I add grass clippings, leaves or whatever of that sort of thing I have around .. if it isn't composting and is dry I add more rabbit manure, veggie left overs whatever...

I don't sweat it too much and I get great compost (which I usually mix with soil as I am usually trying to extend it as far as possible - though I wouldn't hesitate to plant directly into it)


----------



## chamoisee (May 15, 2005)

Squash and pumpkins will grow in fresh manure. And they will do quite well in it, too.


----------



## NickieL (Jun 15, 2007)

I find plants trying to grow in my compost quite often LOL Mostly pumpkins and tomatoes


----------



## DKR82 (Apr 5, 2008)

brody said:


> most fresh manure is too "hot" to plant directly into


I realize that, but it is slightly aged, and I won't actually be planting in it until mid-May. So I figure by then it should have had time to "cool off." Also, forgot to mention that I also included a layer of shredded newspaper between the existing soil and the new poo/compost layer. From what I've read this should help to get some air circulation in the soil, as well as attract worms.


----------



## brody (Feb 19, 2009)

as long as it's aged some and getting crumbly and smells earthy not manure like you'll be fine then


----------

