# Aircrete Home..?



## ThatGuyOverThere (Sep 26, 2017)

I've been looking into how i'm going to build my future home.. I've seen vids about aircrete... Has anyone had any experience with it?


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

ThatGuyOverThere said:


> I've been looking into how i'm going to build my future home.. I've seen vids about aircrete... Has anyone had any experience with it?


No. It looks like a variation of spray/air crete, except lighter material. 
They say it should be 80-100gr/liter
Which translates into 100kg/m^3
Compare to regular concrete;

2,406.53 kg/m^3 
5,305.49 lb/m^3

So, it is 1/25 the weight of regular concrete...sounds pretty light. I have to wonder about durability, freeze/thaw etc. 
Wood is around 500-1000kg/m^3 depending on species. 
Sounds very interesting, but it will take time for it catch on. As with any new product, it has to pass muster with authorities if your building in an inspection zone. 

I'm ok with light materials, but I would prefer a little heft so it doesn't blow away...

From their page:
"compressive strength range of 50 psi – 930 psi"
That is a very large window...they don't get into the downsides all that much except to say no pours over 3' or you crush the bubbles. 
For reference: 50psi is similar to foam I used under a concrete slab. Although, they don't give specs, like how much deformation is induced at 50psi. 
If one made it with the higher spec of 930psi, that would be plenty stout. Problem is quality control.


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## ThatGuyOverThere (Sep 26, 2017)

melli said:


> No. It looks like a variation of spray/air crete, except lighter material.
> They say it should be 80-100gr/liter
> Which translates into 100kg/m^3
> Compare to regular concrete;
> ...


Thankyou for the info... I'm looking for something with a small echo footprint but can make it through maryland winters and summers. Any suggestions?


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

ThatGuyOverThere said:


> Thankyou for the info... I'm looking for something with a small echo footprint but can make it through maryland winters and summers. Any suggestions?


Well, concrete has a huge carbon footprint, but it lasts a long time. I have a thread here ('homesteading west coast...') and I'm using ICF for main floor...small home. Although ICF home is not eco friendly to build, nor cheap, it is efficient to heat and cool. I never hashed out the carbon footprint equation, long term. 
Wood is really the most eco friendly other than compressed earth, sod, rock, recycled material, etc., homes. I guess in Maryland you get some cool winters and hot summers (distinct seasons). 
Adobe style homes (earthen) are suitable for arid climes (and non seismic zones). 
Really depends on your budget, and what you want in terms of efficiency to live in it. A typical wood frame with SIPs cladding seems to be popular back east. I wanted a bit of bunker (stout), that is super insulated, so I don't hear a thing, and I am cozy with a cube heater. To be honest, I still have issues with foam insulation, even though I am using it...lol. It does degrade over time and certain flavors off-gas. I love Roxul...I think that is the bees knees. I can't see that stuff ever degrading (I'll be using that on interior). 
Roxul does have a panel-board, which might substitute for foam sheeting. I'll be looking into that when the time comes. 

If they can show aircrete to have longevity and structural strength, it could be a winner, but it is like being a first adopter of a new electronic toy...there is always bugs, and they always come up with something better. They talked about adding fibers to mix, which sounds like a plan. I did some reading on metal helix-coil admixtures in concrete (http://www.helixsteel.com/residential)...supposed to be good enough to do away with most reinforcement (rebar). 

Yep, if they can show durability of aircrete, it will be a winner, as the cost to build is a fraction of a poured concrete home and the carbon footprint is reduced considerably. I really like the idea, as the entrained air bubbles are a natural insulator. R value of 2 per inch...


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## ThatGuyOverThere (Sep 26, 2017)

Th


melli said:


> Well, concrete has a huge carbon footprint, but it lasts a long time. I have a thread here ('homesteading west coast...') and I'm using ICF for main floor...small home. Although ICF home is not eco friendly to build, nor cheap, it is efficient to heat and cool. I never hashed out the carbon footprint equation, long term.
> Wood is really the most eco friendly other than compressed earth, sod, rock, recycled material, etc., homes. I guess in Maryland you get some cool winters and hot summers (distinct seasons).
> Adobe style homes (earthen) are suitable for arid climes (and non seismic zones).
> Really depends on your budget, and what you want in terms of efficiency to live in it. A typical wood frame with SIPs cladding seems to be popular back east. I wanted a bit of bunker (stout), that is super insulated, so I don't hear a thing, and I am cozy with a cube heater. To be honest, I still have issues with foam insulation, even though I am using it...lol. It does degrade over time and certain flavors off-gas. I love Roxul...I think that is the bees knees. I can't see that stuff ever degrading (I'll be using that on interior).
> ...


Thanks, that's a good chunk of food for thought...


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## ForestToFarm (Feb 28, 2016)

Looks interesting. I am always looking at alternative building practices.

We are also building.

If you decided to go with wood and use 2x6 exterior walls you get a good bit of insulation. Wood is fairly plentiful, it grows as trees and produces the air we breath, you can replant endlessly and it is easy to build with. I feel like its a great option over mined or man made materials if managed properly.

My son and I are building two homes and a small farm/homestead. We have a thread here as well following our project. Yo can check it out here if you like.
https://www.homesteadingtoday.com/t...-forest-follow-along-here-and-youtube.549065/

We are building modest size homes, around 1500 square feet. I would go much smaller and my son would as well but the wives want some room so they win. We do plan to be as highly efficient as possible and eventually go off grid solar, well, septic tank and many other things to reduce our connection to the grid thus reducing and or eliminating any monthly payments. So there will be lots of things we do to improve efficiency.

We post almost daily and started with a raw forest so its been a long drawn out process but we are almost to the building phase so its about to get interesting. I actually just started discussing the footing and foundation considerations. I already have a few other topics of discussion ready including about how we plan to do insulation. I will hop over there and post the insulation info now. Its a little out of order but not a big deal. We will post when we do it as well and generally show videos and pictures telling the story of how each process is done. gotta get it built first, lol.

Good luck! Lets us know what you decide to do,
Terry


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## Esteban29304 (Apr 29, 2003)

I have never been a fan of dome designed homes, mainly because there is so much wasted floor space & the difficulty in furnishing. 
Many years ago, I had a friend who built his own home with about 75% recycled materials. He worked in construction & demolition , & was a brickmason , so he gathered lumber, brick, blocks , doors, windows , etc. to build his home. He had a huge barn in which he stored the material. If I were younger & wanted to build a home, I would probably do this.


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

Be aware a home built like that will have very little resale value.
That's why you see so few of them.


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## ThatGuyOverThere (Sep 26, 2017)

Yo


ForestToFarm said:


> Looks interesting. I am always looking at alternative building practices.
> 
> We are also building.
> 
> ...


You Tubing you now... Thanks


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## ThatGuyOverThere (Sep 26, 2017)

Fishindude said:


> Be aware a home built like that will have very little resale value.
> That's why you see so few of them.


It's not for resale... It'll be my escape away from this festering taint of a city... For me its partly aesthetics, i love the way the dome shape looks against a.back drop of nature.. My family and i do not need much space.. To us the land and local is most important. I'll be useing mostly reclamed fixtures and such. I'm doing the electrical cause that's my thang.. I'm still undecided as to if ill use this method and material or even a dome shape...... Something moduler, and or natural with a goal of moving to solar...


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## ForestToFarm (Feb 28, 2016)

ThatGuyOverThere said:


> It's not for resale... It'll be my escape away from this festering taint of a city... For me its partly aesthetics, i love the way the dome shape looks against a.back drop of nature.. My family and i do not need much space.. To us the land and local is most important. I'll be useing mostly reclamed fixtures and such. I'm doing the electrical cause that's my thang.. I'm still undecided as to if ill use this method and material or even a dome shape...... Something moduler, and or natural with a goal of moving to solar...


There is gonna be a lot of overkill in our homes but we really don't care because we plan to stay there the rest of our lives. Gonna develop our own little piece of paradise and keep it that way. We have already had people wanting to buy a small part of it and build themselves a home. Not happening. We got an outstanding deal on the land and could keep most of it and make our money back from selling a few acres but we would loose what we bought it for, privacy.

I say build whatever makes you happy.

Terry


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

I only scanned through the comments above but have looked at some of the older designs. From what I've read, the older ones become problematic with water leaks over time, not something I'm too keen on. Maybe the new design that you're looking at is able to overcome that. Water, sun, heat, and cold day after day, year after year, can break down some pretty tough stuff.


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## ForestToFarm (Feb 28, 2016)

ThatGuyOverThere said:


> Yo
> 
> You Tubing you now... Thanks


Thanks! We enjoy making the videos and hope they can help some people learn how to do or not to do things. 

Don't judge us to harshly, we are rookies so a lot of what we do could be done a better way I am sure however I do not think anyone would have more fun than we are doing it , ha ha.

Terry


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## miggyb (May 2, 2015)

melli said:


> No. It looks like a variation of spray/air crete, except lighter material.
> They say it should be 80-100gr/liter
> Which translates into 100kg/m^3
> Compare to regular concrete;
> ...


Is it stronger in a dome, or in blocks and used as a cmu, in a traditional fashion? I was on that website just yesterday. All kinds of questions. Have you seen papercrete? How would that compare. Thanks in advance for any info.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

miggyb said:


> Is it stronger in a dome, or in blocks and used as a cmu, in a traditional fashion? I was on that website just yesterday. All kinds of questions. Have you seen papercrete? How would that compare. Thanks in advance for any info.


Single pour is always going to be stronger than CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit) as there is no cold joints if done right. Assuming same material, thickness, reinforcement etc. 
I loathe cinder blocks (a smaller variation of CMU), but they are a cheap economical way to build, especially in an non-seismic area. But they are limited in wind loading, and are prone to seam cracking on soft soils. 
Papercrete is just like hardi-board (paper vs sawdust)...as for constructing with it, it seems fine, but has to be protected in wet areas. In lieu of air bubbles, they use paper. 

A dome is probably the strongest geometry to build. Some folks have issue with it, as it makes installing windows and doors tough, plus interior finishing. It is why metal Quonsets are popular...the half round ones (strong). 

Long ago, I was sold on a dome build or hobbit house, but reality sunk in. I'd have to build it where there are no codes, no inspections. Who knows, one might be able to get an engineer to sign off on one, but doubtful, as they are putting their neck on the line. 

If I were doing a dome, I'd forget about using air bubbles, paper, whatever, and use tried and true concrete (special mix for sprayer). Not trying to burst your bubble (had to say that), as aircrete can work. For me, concrete dome, with lots of rebar. That would be a bunker! Long ago, I saw them use an inflatable dome, and then they sprayed concrete in layers...coming up with a suitable form is the key. Once you reach a certain thickness, the thin dome becomes the form, and you can pile on rebar and concrete to reach desired thickness. Problem is, it isn't common, and finding the know-how to do it, tough. 

I've also seen CMUs being used in commercial construction projects like Vancouver skytrain (elevated). It used to be a pain to haul massive sections to site, as they were made off site. So, they came up with smaller chunks. To hold them together, they have tension cables. Kind of freaky knowing that between supports, 30ft off ground, you are zipping along a track that is made up of chunks held together by cables under tension. Many buildings have a component of this for long spans. I'm no expert in this area, but I do know my Dad's apartment building had to have the cables redone, as the old ones rusted.


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## ForestToFarm (Feb 28, 2016)

Build your dome. Then cover like this. Its a sprayed in pool. I have seen this done a few times. The finish was very nice looking. I am sure it takes a person who knows what they are doing to make it look great. if it holds water in I assume it should hold water out. Maybe they had a liner, not sure about that. Think it was like a plaster finish on the one i saw and was finished in white.

Also I could see using the concrete brush on type foundation sealer being applied to your dome after finished. You would have to see how it holds up to above ground exposure though. I have only done it below ground and it does a fantastic job for me.

Not our video, just one I found on the web showing what I am talking about.

Terry


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## Mickie3 (Aug 28, 2010)

This stuff may take a while to catch on, after all its only been around since the 1920s. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoclaved_aerated_concrete


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## Steve_S (Feb 25, 2015)

Mickie3 said:


> This stuff may take a while to catch on, after all its only been around since the 1920s.


Ohh My < 100 years is far too recent hehehehe... 

I have seen one of these though and must admit I was gobsmacked at how nicely it turned out and how comfy it was... Check it out and consider the potentials of the design / concept. http://greenmagichomes.com/ Tornado Zone ?, Quake Zone ? the potential for a Win-Win all over it... who needs a "box" to live in....


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

Steve_S said:


> Ohh My < 100 years is far too recent hehehehe...
> 
> ... who needs a "box" to live in....


To be fair, a well constructed wooden box can hold up remarkably well to an earthquake. It can be designed to hold up pretty well to other natural disasters, too. 

FWIW, I was one of those enamored with the dome home set up at the 1982 World's Fair. Have always kinda like the idea. Have just never seen it executed in such a way that I felt good about sinking a lot of my own money into a project.


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## gemniii (Aug 12, 2018)

I realize this is an older thread BUT


melli said:


> No. It looks like a variation of spray/air crete, except lighter material.
> They say it should be 80-100gr/liter
> Which translates into 100kg/m^3
> <snip>


First of all I'm here because this forum mentioned aircrete.
Yeah, that would be pretty light. 
I can't post links, but here's a quote from one of the main sites at domegaia.com how-to-make-aircrete.html:


> "*AirCrete is inexpensive, easy to make, and easy to work with. It requires only basic skills. *
> 
> It's easy to make. And, like baking a cake, you have to get the recipe right. *The quality and density of the foam is important.* Use an* accurate postal or kitchen scale* to check the weight of your foam. I*t should be between 80 - 100 grams/liter (about 3 ounces/quart)*. "


THE FOAM IS SUPPOSED TO WEIGH THAT.

I've found it hard to get accurate numbers but from what's been bandied around the "finished" product often weighs 40 lbs per cubic foot about 650 kg/cubic meter. Since aircrete is a "roll your own" industry right now there is a lot of variation. Some people go for insulation, which will be lighter, some for structure.

But one of the problems I've found is that many of people posting about aircrete are on youtube and trying to make money, which is ok but then they try to sell handmade equipment and seem to want to get paid $100/hour to assemble $40 worth of parts.

So I'm looking for a forum that will discuss Aircrete without worrying about stepping on some advertisers toes.


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## gerold (Jul 18, 2011)

gemniii said:


> I realize this is an older thread BUT
> 
> First of all I'm here because this forum mentioned aircrete.
> Yeah, that would be pretty light.
> ...


I like these ideas. You can use a lot of different materials that are light weight. Post any links you find on this subject that may help. Zoning can be a bit problem however if building the


ThatGuyOverThere said:


> I've been looking into how i'm going to build my future home.. I've seen vids about aircrete... Has anyone had any experience with it?


Interesting. Will be looking at it in coming days. Feel free to post any more solid info on this subject. Have anyone had any work with Pyrocrete and what it is made of.


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## shawnlee (Apr 13, 2010)

I want a 3D printed house out of concrete.....


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## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

saw a you tube on I think it was sand tube buildings, sandbag building. looked like a better way than the foam concrete to me, and a very DIY system,





 I think this is the basic one I watched but it was a step by step of one of the bedrooms they built, I think it was adobe I would use stucco, for the out side, in my area,


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## gemniii (Aug 12, 2018)

The sandbag building style is old technology. Aircrete is new, primarily due to availability of tools that were not in widespread use as recently as the 1960's when I helped my Grandfather and Father build a duplex.

Now with the advent of inexpensive air compressors it's relatively easy to produce blocks of aircrete of any shape and size, just like pouring cake mix. And if you've ever been inundated by the "Cake Wars" series, which my loving wife is addicted to, youe know cake can come in any size or shape.

With well less than $100 in materials (beyond the cost of a small compressor I already had) I was able to produce test blocks of varying densities.
The only materials I needed for the dispensing equipment were tubing, pvc pipe, pipe clamps, valves and plumbers tape.

One of the limiting factors in aircrete is the environment - especially the temperature. When temps started dropping below 50 degrees F I didn't think I could reliably pour aircrete (or even regular concrete). 

Another limiting factor is weight. If I pour a panel 8'x1.5' x 3.5 inches it's still over 100 lbs. And as others have mentioned joints are a pain and there things leak. Next summer I'd like to pour a few walls (with mesh reinforcement) about 4'Wx8'Hx4 inches (sized to match a sheet of plywood) and move them with my tractor. If you look up "aircrete" and "honey do carpenter" on you tube the guy built a shed (about 12x15?) out of panels 8'x1.5'x3.5" panels he poured (and lifted them around)..

Now IF I was in Paradise (California, that is) I would be planning on building with a 100% non-flammable material.

Additionally if you dig around one can find references to people that are working on the machinery to do all the "fancy stuff" -
pouring in slip-forms, pouring from robotic dispensers.

Sandbags are nice, heck one can just stack bags of concrete and they will form a solid wall. But aircrete can be treated like plastic.

What is going to happen to the building industry when one can take a small machine and pour a decent building?


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## Mickie3 (Aug 28, 2010)

Aren't the 3-d printed houses almost what you are looking for with aircrete?


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## gemniii (Aug 12, 2018)

That would be ideal if it was REALLY low cost, but with a minor investment in PVC, tubing and valves I can mix up aircrete for 4'x8'x4" wall panels for the cost of some cement and mesh.


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## Jaceymae (7 mo ago)

melli said:


> No. It looks like a variation of spray/air crete, except lighter material.
> They say it should be 80-100gr/liter
> Which translates into 100kg/m^3
> Compare to regular concrete;
> ...


 I have seen panels poured on the ground at 3" thick but less than 8' long. Is there a reason against more than that. I would like to do at least one panel @10'-12', for a free standing garden wall, no roof.


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## furnacefighter15 (8 mo ago)

Jaceymae said:


> I have seen panels poured on the ground at 3" thick but less than 8' long. Is there a reason against more than that. I would like to do at least one panel @10'-12', for a free standing garden wall, no roof.


Dont think air crete without really good bracing will hold up to any sort of wind load.

It has decent compression strength, but not shear or torsion strength.

Maybe if it was reinforced like typical concrete or even more so.


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## Jaceymae (7 mo ago)

I'm intending to brace it with pipe, and decided to do wing walls partially down both sides. Another helpful thing is it will be running almost true N to S direction. Doubt it will catch much wind that way. Looking into AAC blocks, but not having much luck finding in the US. Cannot imagine why as supposedly they are quite common.


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