# Radishes Splitting



## dheat (Jul 27, 2005)

I planted radishes for the first time this fall. They're ready, but most are split open. That is, the red "skin" is split and the white "flesh" is exposed.

What causes this? Over watering? Picked too late? Aliens?

They taste good. Is there a problem with eating them?

Thanks for your help.

Best regards.

Doug


----------



## rocket (Sep 9, 2005)

I'd say there are two possibilities. The first is the radishes just get cracked and "pithy" if left to grow too long. How long ago did you plant them? I've had this problem because I was hoping to let them grow longer to get bigger.

The second possibility is uneven moisture. If the ground is a bit dry for a while and then really gets soaked, I think radishes are prone to swelling up and splitting.


----------



## dheat (Jul 27, 2005)

rocket,

they've been in the ground about 6-7 weeks, however, they were split when the were ready at 4 weeks. So, that doesn't sound like the first possibility you mention is the problem.

I have raised beds and water every other day. I wonder if that would lend itself to the second possibility?

Thanks for the info.

Doug


----------



## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

dheat said:


> I have raised beds and water every other day. I wonder if that would lend itself to the second possibility?


Too much water is the leading cause of split or cracked radishes, closely followed by over-fertilization. However, such radishes are indeed the nicest for taste and tenderness. It's just that there is a fine line between not enough water and too much. Not enough and they are tough and "sharp". Too much and they are crisp and "sweet". Finding that in-between situation is always a challenge to even the best gardeners.

Martin


----------



## MaineFarmMom (Dec 29, 2002)

How many days to maturity for this variety? Six or seven weeks is a long time for most common radishes. My opinion on cracked veggies - if it tastes good and it's not spoiled it's good enough for me.


----------



## dheat (Jul 27, 2005)

Martin,

Too much water may be the problem. I don't think over fertilization is the problem as all I did in that department was turn under a cover crop of annual rye in March. And, to counteract that to an unknown degree, I innocently (I'm new at this) mulched with dry leaves thinking that was a good thing. At least I didn't have to weed. :shrug: 

Robin,

maturity for this variety is 28 days. I picked a few at 28 days and all I found were thick white roots. I waited another week (or was it two?) and had radishes.

Some were split then. They tasted fine, but didn't look grocery store nice.

Thank you both for your replies.

Doug


----------



## PonderosaQ (Jan 12, 2004)

If it helps for the next crop I have found the white radishes split less than the red ones. I have found white icicle to be particularly good variety. I think excess water is the main cause in my soil but Mother Nature does that sometimes, just decides to soak everything.
PQ


----------



## Rockin'B (Jan 20, 2006)

I don't think mulching with leaves can be a bad thing. I do that all the time, that, and half rotted compost. I cover with grass clippings or straw and by the end of summer that half rotted compost is all but gone.


----------



## dheat (Jul 27, 2005)

Rockin'B,

Since you're laying down half-rotted compost with your leaves, it sounds to me like you're composting in place more than you are mulching.

I've read a couple of places that using leaves _only_ as mulch (or any brown/carbon material) will deplete the soil of nitrogen by taking it up as it decomposes. Thus, not just preventing growth by blocking sunlight, but by removing or denying nitrogen from the soil as well.

Depending on where one's mulching, however, that could be a good thing or a bad thing. Mulching with leaves only in bed where nitrogen-needy plants are establishing would seem to be a bad thing. Mulching in an established bed of plants with leaves only wouldn't seem detrimental.

But, honestly, what do I know. This is all pretty new to me: I'm just finishing my second year. I'm realizing that gardening is a lot like learning a foreign language. It's not just a bunch of rules you learn :nerd: and then, voila , you speak it. It's alive and dynamic and to learn it you just have get out there, do it and see what works.

Thanks for your reply. I appreciate it.

Doug


----------



## Rockin'B (Jan 20, 2006)

Well, there's something to that. That's the reason I don't like putting wood shavings into the garden. It takes more nitrogen to break down than it provides. Not sure about leaves though. I don't always mulch with half rotted compost. I have mulched with leaves and leaves covered with straw. I haven't seen negative effects, but that's just casual observation and nothing scientific about it. I think the benefits of mulching far outweigh any slight net loss in N if that really occurs. My garden is never mulched with just one thing. There may be grass clippings here while straw only over there....
Others may know more about this, but it seems to work for me.


----------



## Paquebot (May 10, 2002)

dheat said:


> I've read a couple of places that using leaves _only_ as mulch (or any brown/carbon material) will deplete the soil of nitrogen by taking it up as it decomposes. Thus, not just preventing growth by blocking sunlight, but by removing or denying nitrogen from the soil as well.


I saw a mention on that also on another thread but decided not to comment. However, I will do so now before too much misinformation is spread.

First off, any mulch on the surface WILL NOT deplete soil nitrogen. That goes for wood chips also. Nitrogen itself is fugitive and naturally escapes back into the atmosphere. Rotting carbon material does indeed need nitrogen to decompose but if it's on the surface, the nitrogen source is both from naturally escaping soil nitrogen and from the air which is about 80% nitrogen. Mulch actually intercepts that nitrogen which would otherwise be absorbed into the atmosphere. Leaves used as mulch suppress seed germination only due to lack of sunlight, not lack of nitrogen. Especially so since seeds do not need nitrogen in order to germinate. 

Second is the fact that leaves do not need to absorb nitrogen from the soil in order to decompose. There is more nitrogen in dry oak leaves at .80% than in green red clover at .55%. Growing grass barely makes 1.00%. Pea vines are .25%. Dry corn stalks are just below oak leaves at .75% and one never worries about them depleting the soil of nitrogen. Thus brown is not always an indication of low nitrogen nor green an indication of high nitrogen.

Non-shredded leaves MAY be a problem when tilled into the ground. However, it's only when there are too many in one spot without being thoroughly distributed throughout the soil. What happens is that the decomposing clump of leaves is using up all of the oxygen and creating an anaerobic condition for the plant roots. The same soil bacteria which is trying to gobble up the leaves also have trouble avoiding eating up the feeder roots of plants. The results are stunted and yellow plants which look like they were deprived of nitrogen despite growing in nitrogen-rich conditions.

Martin


----------



## dheat (Jul 27, 2005)

Martin,

thanks for that great info. That settles it: I'll continue to mulch with shredded leaves.

All,

my daughter picked some radishes yesterday. The were big and beautiful, not split at all. Go figure.

Thanks for sharing your experience and experiences. I am grateful for it.

Doug


----------

