# Shur-Dri Jet Pump Pressure Switch



## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

We bought a *Shur-Dri* jet pump several years ago from TSC and the pressure switch is starting to show signs of wear. Twice over the last week, I've had to go out and clean off the pressure switch set of points on the right side because they weren't making a connection so I ended up losing pressure overnight. Anyone know where you get parts for these pumps? Can't find a part number match on the internet.


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## oneokie (Aug 14, 2009)

Check www.grainger.com


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## watcher (Sep 4, 2006)

I don't know about this specific pump but I have always found pump pressure switches at hardware stores or farm supply stores.


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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

Any pump pressure switch will fit it. I got a square D at a hardware store and put it on my pump. They come in two sizes 20 to 40 pounds and 30 to 50 pounds or you can adjust it to what ever you want.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Lowe's charges different prices for the pressure switches based on the pressure setting! They are all the same switch. It is just a matter of turning the adjustment screws. If the jet pump is on a shallow well with no jet use a 20/40 setting. If there is a jet on the system and the depth of the water is not deep use a 30/50 setting.


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

Thanks for the info on the pressure switch. I'll check at Lowe's. I think my pressure tank is junk causing the pump to cycle on and off too much. I can hear leaking inside the tank. Probably what's causing the switch to fail. Is there actually a _good_ brand of pressure tanks? I don't have a whole lot of luck with diaphragms. This will be my fourth tank... Grrr!!

E.T.A. - The pump is on a cistern. The level of the cistern is above the pump so I have good gravity flow to the pump. Had to install a shut-off on the line just so I could work on the pump without getting soaked. So what should the new switch be set at?


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## oneokie (Aug 14, 2009)

How Do I said:


> Thanks for the info on the pressure switch. I'll check at Lowe's. I think my pressure tank is junk causing the pump to cycle on and off too much. I can hear leaking inside the tank. Probably what's causing the switch to fail. Is there actually a _good_ brand of pressure tanks? I don't have a whole lot of luck with diaphragms. This will be my fourth tank... Grrr!!


Do you have a check valve on the suction line? My guess is you do not and what you are hearing is the pressure bleeding back through the pump to the cistern. If you do have a check valve, it is defective.

If you have a faucet close to the pump, turn it on and make note of how quick the pump starts, then close the faucet and make note of how quick the pump shuts off. If the pump cycles when turning the faucet on and off, your pressure tank is "waterlogged". 

There should be a valve on the tank somewhere that looks like a tire valve stem. (schrader valve) Add air through this valve, (most tanks suggest 28 psi) This may have to be done several times to purge the water from the tank. Turn the power off to the pump while doing this and relieve the water pressure through a faucet. Leave the faucet open while adding air until the flow of water stops and check for 28 psi air pressure.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

As for the pressure setting on the pressure switch and the bladder tank do the following. Watch the pressure gauge on the system and see where it turns on. If should be one of the following...20 .. 30..40 PSI Just set the replacement switch at the same turn on pressure. Do as oneokie stated above and set the new tank air pressure using the tank mounted schrader valve 2 PSI below the cut in pressure

Flexcon Industries makes the best of the bladder tanks. It is the design that is superior to other tanks. Flexcon tanks are marketed under a lot of different names. If you will research Flexcon you can find the brands Flexcon manufactures. This article describes the company http://www.flexconind.com/pdf/WWJ_Dec06.pdf


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

There is a brass swing check valve in the line. Pretty sure the pressure tank is shot. I'm about at the point where I'm ready to scrap the current setup and start with a new system. I originally* put in a pvc shut off valve in the line to keep the water from flowing while working on the pump/tank. If I have to turn the valve off one more time I'm afraid it's going to break on me. It's literally the cheapest piece of junk I've ever bought. I have a brass shut off valve that's been waiting to replace the pvc valve, but I've always been able to get the pvc to eventually turn (even though it no longer has handles to turn by hand). The first time I had to work on it, the whole system froze up in the pump house when the heat went out. The water to the pump wouldn't stop flowing once the line was removed so I had to dip into the cistern (the coldest day of that winter) in about four foot of very cold water to block the inlet pipe up. I *really* don't want to do that again.

This is basically what we have now. Only the old paperwork says 7 gallon tank. We're very conservative with our water usage, so I'm really surprised it's lasted this long. I was looking at two others. One from Home Depot and another from Craftsman. The factory voltage for the craftsman is 230 convertible to 115. Our current setup is 115 so I'd have to get some advice on changing that over if I got that one. Any certain one look better for the money? We're supposed to be getting city water this coming year so I really don't want to spend too much just to get us through. But I would like to get this project over with soon before cold weather moves in.


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## Old Vet (Oct 15, 2006)

I wouldn't buy a hole system for just a pressure regulator and a tank. The pump will cost more than both of them together. The tank can be bought separately and so can the pressure regulator. Any type will work with your pump.Do not just get a small tank but one large enough to last a long time. I have a 20 gallon tank on my well and it will keep from turning on down. Make sure that you have no leaks in your system and you are good to go.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

I looked at the setup from the link you posted. You do have an inferior system to have any reliability. Since you have already told me that you have a flooded inlet from the cistern all you really need is a boost pump with controls and a decent bladder tank. Such a system should give years of dependable unattended water.


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## How Do I (Feb 11, 2008)

I guess I'm just not expecting this pump to last much longer either and dread working on it in the middle of winter. We're going to go compare some pressure tanks today and grab a pressure switch and new check valve while we're at it. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions...


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