# Car issue and survival



## KentuckyDreamer (Jan 20, 2012)

Good morning all,
I am currently faced with an issue that seems to be threatening my plans. Input would be greatly appreciated.

As some may know, I am single, almost 60, with a nine year old son at home. I have saved and scrimped to buy a secluded homestead. The "INTENT" was to eventually have solar power, wood heat, etc. Self sufficient while protecting myself and mine.

Yesterday, my car did some very strange things. I am so afraid the repairs will be astronomical. Thus, the dilemma;

-Repair a 2006 Toyota for thousands ( maybe 5/6 ) of dollars, now knowing how long it will last.

-Buy a new car; this not only gets into my savings or puts me deeply in debt, BUT it also ties me into the need for oil.

My son homeschools so we need a car at this point. I also need a reliable car to travel to potential homesteads. 

I am sick to my stomach...I honestly feel it is not safe to stay in town much longer, the homestead is what I have been focused on for so long. 

Thanks for different ways of looking at this.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

It would help to know how many miles are on the car. In normal usage, the car should have a bit over 100,000 miles on it. That's not a lot of miles for a Toyota. Today's electronic engines can be a major PITA. Something relatively minor can stress you out by turning something that was previously old reliable into an unknown.

While there's quite a few knowledgeable people here, I'd describe how the car is acting in a post at www.batauto.com. There are quite a few mechanics that respond at that website. 

I wouldn't panic yet.


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## KentuckyDreamer (Jan 20, 2012)

Darren, thank you for the site info. I tried to register but was told I was SPAM. I have sent an e-mail to the administrator for assistance with registering.

My car has about 160,000 miles or so. 

If I thought I could count on the car for another three years I put feel "okay" about repairing for a reasonable amount.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

It should still be good for several years unless there's something unusual going on. Can you describe what it's doing? Maybe we can help.


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## KentuckyDreamer (Jan 20, 2012)

Thank you for your time; I have had such horrendous experiences with repairs on other cars. Twice after much money, the cars remained money pits. 

First there were no brake lights. Fuses and lights fine. New switch put in, still no lights.

The next day on a 2 mile trip from home, the car slows, struggled to get between 20 and 40 mph. while the RPM'S raced. Burning smell.

Brakes worked but there was no give in peddle. Stiff as a board.

Some clinging and grinding sounds. Steam coming from under the hood on the passenger side.

At a red light the car just stopped, but started easily.
Terrible smell that remained in the garage two days later. 

Son came over to drive and except for the smell, was fine. Went to 70 mph no problem, brakes no problem. Still not brake lights.

Last night I drove around the corner; grinding noise at times, and to me, the engine sounded different. Smell remains. Scared to get on the main road.


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## Wolf mom (Mar 8, 2005)

Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and take it to a mechanic you trust and get an estimate. If it's minor you are ahead of the game. If it's expensive, have them fix it enough to sell it or sell it "as is". If you don't know what's wrong it's easy to think it'll cost an arm & a leg. 

Then if you're going to buy a rural homestead, _invest_ in a truck or some sort of vehicle that will be usable on a homestead vehicle & last. 

Think that this is not setting you back, it's just resetting priorities as living rural you really need a vehicle you not only can count on, but that can haul feed, etc. 

71 y/o & living rural -


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Have your son pull the wheel off the front passenger side and check the rotor and brake pads. He can tell if the pads are so far worn, they've gouged the rotor. The other possibility is the flexible brake line leading to that brake caliper may have collapsed inside and prevented the pressure on the brakes from being released on that wheel. The over heated situation can generate smoke and steam if it's raining or you go through a wet spot. 

The brake light problem would take some troubleshooting and is a separate problem.


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## 7thswan (Nov 18, 2008)

Have you checked the trans fluid.


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## MichaelK! (Oct 22, 2010)

Actually, I think this post goes straight to the heart of the homesteading movement, and how you deal with this is a measure of your potential success as a homesteader.

Let's get right down to it. Homesteading is all about self-sufficiency, and self-relience. If you can't even diagnose and repair a car problem, just how do you ever expect to accomplish anything yourself on a homestead?

Car repair encompasses a lot of the skill sets you'll need to run a working homestead. Have you ever even changed the oil on a vehicle before? What kind of repairs have you actually attempted yourself? If you're afraid to drive your own car, what is fear going to prevent you from doing out on the land?

I'm not trying to be mean. I don't want to just wave a flag and point out the "clueless chick". What you need to do is start learning to solve your own problems, because if you can't the only other option you have is to throw money at all your problems. That obviously isn't a great option for you.

You are not helpless. This doesn't have to be a "man's job"! Go to your public library and find a good book on auto repair. They usually have step by step keys that guide you through the diagnosis. You might pick up some repair tools cheap at yard sales. You don't have to pay retail for everything. I kept one old car of mine running for 23 years with parts I picked myself at the local junk yard. I never learned auto repair from anyone else. A lot I know was learned simply by trial and error. After you learn to keep your own car running, I think then you may be ready to try running a homestead.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

To be fair about it I've seen a fair amount of auto mechanics get stumped. After 1987 or so cars got more difficult to troubleshoot. Sure you can read the stored codes. Good luck on fixing a newer vehicle when even the factory suggests at some point to replace a suspect part with a "KNOWN" good part to see if it solves the problem.

I've bought new parts that were bad out of the box.

It does make sense to do the simple stuff yourself. To be really self reliant buying a non-electronic vehicle for which parts are still available should be a high priority for anyone looking for greater self sufficiency.


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## MichaelK! (Oct 22, 2010)

OK, enough of the coaching. Lets now look at what you are talking about and analyze it scientificly. You can do this, if you are willing to learn.



KentuckyDreamer said:


> First there were no brake lights. Fuses and lights fine. New switch put in, still no lights.


First, do you know what a volt/ohm meter is? It's a small hand-held meter that measures things like voltage, resistance, and sometimes amperage. You can pick one up at the auto store for 10-15$. You can use the voltage feature to see if the fuses are getting 12 volt power. Do you understand the difference between positive and negative, red an black? You can test stretches of wire with on the "ohm" setting to determine if there are any breaks.

The kinds of wiring in an auto are exactly the same kind of wiring you'd see in a solar set up. If you can repair auto wiring you can set up the solar yourself.



KentuckyDreamer said:


> The next day on a 2 mile trip from home, the car slows, struggled to get between 20 and 40 mph. while the RPM'S raced. Burning smell.
> .


 Can you give us a clue as to why it was slowing? Did it seem like the engine had no power, or did it seem like something was dragging. You mention the burning smell. Can you identify burning what? Did it smell like buring oil, burning rubber, burning electrical wires, burning antifreeze? You can tell the difference between a burning steak and a burning pancake, can't you? It's the same with cars.



KentuckyDreamer said:


> Some clinging and grinding sounds. Steam coming from under the hood on the passenger side.


Can you identify where the sounds are coming from? Were they continuous, only at high speed, only when turning? Did you lift the hood to see what the origin of the steam was? Did it smell like hot water or did it smell like hot antifreeze? 



KentuckyDreamer said:


> At a red light the car just stopped, but started easily.
> Terrible smell that remained in the garage two days later.


 Did everything go dead at the same time, like dash lights, radio, headlights, sort of as if you turned the key off, or did the engine struggle, cough, and slowly die? Did the lights stay on after the engine went dead?



KentuckyDreamer said:


> Last night I drove around the corner; grinding noise at times, and to me, the engine sounded different. Smell remains. Scared to get on the main road.


Did the grinding noise persist while driving in a straight line, or only while turning? The engine sounds different, well, how? Is the RPM lower, or higher? Does it cough and shudder when you press on the gas? Could you make a quick video of the front right wheel while your son is driving? If you could hold the camera outside the window and film the wheel as you make a turn, that might help us diagnose whats happening.

All these things are potentially easy fixes, or major repairs. You have to at least learn enough about car problems to identify what is actually not working properly. Again, I think the best thing is to get a ride over to the public library and start reading up.


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

Guessing: clutch plate or torque converter, heater core or hose, brake sensor. Total repair cost +-$2,000.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

You're asking some things that most people learn through experience, Michael. You can't read a book and figure out how to understand all of the potential smells from an automotive problem. Burning rubber is easy. The smell of an overheated set of brake pads or the smell of a leak that contains anti-freeze may not be. Self education is usually immediate based on something going wrong. Most people learn as they go. 

Many of us with any experience can relate to timing belts/chains, the usual and unusual brake issues. transmission hiccups, poor engine performance, DRT problems involving either ignition or fuel, etc. Expecting someone to study a book when they have a problem and have little or no previous experience is not reasonable. For those with experience a factory shop manual may have the tidbit needed. If you have to chase an electrical problem the vehicle schematics can help the novice troubleshooter. I know of several that can find electrical issues the old way without a schematic. 

What's reasonable now is to offer suggestions on what happened. I've either had or seen several vehicles over the years where the flexible brake line to the caliper looked fine on the outside but was bad on the inside. The worst I saw was on a heavy truck where a locked caliper melted the rotor. The driver noticed nothing unusual driving down the road. No pull to that side. Nothing. The Cummins engine powered though the extra drag without a hitch. With floats on the front you would think the driver would have had some indication. A car is a different matter. You should feel and hear something. 

For someone encountering several symptoms at once, it's tough to pay attention to every one. Something critical can escape notice. Instead of directing the lady to the library let's collaborate on possibilities for her son to check.

I'm off the soap box. :lookout:


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## MO_cows (Aug 14, 2010)

The symptoms described, there's more than one thing going on. And, intermittent stuff is the hardest to figure out. You can get the codes read at O'Reilly Auto Parts for free. Any reputable mechanic should give you a diagnosis and an estimate at a reasonable cost, and if you go ahead and have them do the work, usually they don't charge for the diagnosis. 

Doing it yourself is all well and good, but the OP doesn't sound like there is any understanding/experience of how things work on the vehicle. A kindergarten level mechanic needs to learn how to change oil and brake pads and simple stuff before taking on a complex diagnosis and repair. It could get very expensive not to mention frustrating to just start replacing parts only to find that's not the problem after all. Or get into something and then find out there's a special tool needed, that kind of thing. 

If I were in your shoes, I would get a diagnosis and estimate from a good mechanic, then decide whether to fix or replace.


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

It would be hard to diagnose especially if the other person doesn't know much about cars, like what a normal brake rotor, pad or caliper looks like or functions correctly.
That said, my first guess would be to look for a brake that "locked up" on you. That would explain the car slowing down under acceleration, the burning smell and heat, and the grinding noises.
The brake light problem could have been a precursor or even collateral damage from whatever caused the brakes to grab and not let go.
Just a guess, but I'd start with that.


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## BlackFeather (Jun 17, 2014)

You mentioned getting a new car, how about a used car if the cost to repair is too great. I got my daughter a used car fairly cheep, less than 4000, yes it needed a bit of work but it's been a good car. So if your afraid to plow money into your 160k mile car, maybe a used lower mileage car might work, but like they said get an estimate of your present car first.


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## OH Boy (Dec 22, 2010)

I have heard of those kinds of things happening due to something as simple as a battery that is failing or corroded battery cables. How old is the battery in your car and have you looked at the cables/posts? Might check it.


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## Jupiter (Dec 30, 2012)

In MHO I would find a mechanic I trust to look @ your car. Toyota vehicles will last a very long time with proper maintenance. I knew someone who had 300k miles on theirs & it is still running strong a few years after he sold it.


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## Forcast (Apr 15, 2014)

cars are always a problem if you cant afford to send them to a mechanic or do it yourself. I am dealing with the same with my 1997 jeep, its the only 4 wheel drive we have and needs work. But how much work do you do on older cars.


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## wogglebug (May 22, 2004)

Just for giggles, check the parking brake. Is it on? If not, can you put it on and feel tension? Is there any noticeable difference/feel/smell/sound driving a few feet with it on as against with it off? What difference do you feel putting park brake on AND OFF while foot brake is depressed and/or off.

Far out: is there any chance young son or anyone else has been working park brake without you noticing it?


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## Forcast (Apr 15, 2014)

what about getting a used 4 wheel drive suburban? that way you would have 4 wheel drive and after last winter unless you are moving to Fla. you will need. you can take that way back seat out and have room for square bails of hay chicken feed pig feed what ever. room for sleeping bags if you needed to camp in it.


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## pookford (Jan 11, 2014)

My husband's car showed some of those symptoms when one of his brake calipers(?) got stuck and basically resulted in his brake being engaged while he was driving (burning smell, smoke, high RPMs but low speed, engine sounded weird because it was working overtime, etc.) Less than $400 worth of repairs later, the car was good as new. 

My previous car started making odd noises and stalling out, and it turned out some kind of $10 gasket needed to be replaced. I drove that car for another 100,000 miles.

My point is; don't assume that you have one major $$ issue going on...it could be a couple of smaller, less expensive issues giving you grief. You won't know for sure until you get a repair estimate from a reputable shop. At the same time, I would suggest researching the prices for gently used cars in your area. This decision may not seem so overwhelming once you have all the facts.


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## KentuckyDreamer (Jan 20, 2012)

Thank you all, this has been interesting. I do not feel as hopeless. I made an appointment with a mechanic for next week. If it is reasonable, I will have it repaired, if not, I will get a 2012 / 2013 model vehicle.

I am going to take each one of these ideas with me when I go for the diagnostics. 

I think this is one of those time I feel as if it is a crisis, but in 5 years, it will work out for the best, just like everything else in my life. 

I do get overwhelmed. I have no desire to learn mechanics, no desire to even own a car. I was 32 or so before my ex forced me to get my driver's license. I am very old school. I like the way my ex mother-in - law and grandmother's lived. 

When I say I long for the old ways....I mean the really old ways


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## Forcast (Apr 15, 2014)

Hun its a little hard to be with out a car/truck while living in the sticks. its not like you could expect to call the neighbor to give you rides.

and living like our grandparents in this day is not very likely. grand mom didnt walk out to the woods one day at 60 and chop the woods down to make a spot to build her log cabin by herself.


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## gilberte (Sep 25, 2004)

http://https://www.youtube.com/user/eliomotors


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## MichaelK! (Oct 22, 2010)

Darren said:


> You're asking some things that most people learn through experience, Michael. You can't read a book and figure out how to understand all of the potential smells from an automotive problem. Burning rubber is easy. The smell of an overheated set of brake pads or the smell of a leak that contains anti-freeze may not be. Self education is usually immediate based on something going wrong. Most people learn as they go.
> 
> Many of us with any experience can relate to timing belts/chains, the usual and unusual brake issues. transmission hiccups, poor engine performance, DRT problems involving either ignition or fuel, etc. Expecting someone to study a book when they have a problem and have little or no previous experience is not reasonable.


I most certainly do think it's reasonable, because that's exactly how I learned auto repair. I never took a course. I was never trained by a master repairman. I learned from books. I've replaced alternators, water pumps, fuel pumps, timing belts, brakes, had rotors turned, and did electrical repairs, just from the information I learned from books.

I may add that I had NO construction experience before I built my cabin, I also taught myself to weld, do plumbing, and wire together my solar system.

You are really missing my central point here and that is homesteaders NEED to be self-sufficient. Out in the middle of no-where you just don't call the plumber, or the electrician, or the repair guy for every little nail that needs hammering down. If KD doesn't even make an attempt to solve her own car problems, just how is she ever going to run something as complex as a homestead. If the SHTF tomorrow, she'd be worse off on the homestead than if she stayed in town with the rest of the wilding sheeple!


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## Nimrod (Jun 8, 2010)

The OP asked whether to repair or replace her vehicle. This is a gamble either way and only you can decide if it's worth gambling on whether your car will run well after being fixed. A used vehicle may have just as many problems as the current one.

A hundred sixty thousand miles is not a lot for a Toyota. It should go a lot longer if you fix it now. 

You need to get an estimate. If the repair will be a significant part of the value of the car it might not be worth doing or the repair could be cheap.

You probably will need a truck when you get a homestead. Is this the time to switch to a truck? It will get way poorer gas mileage than the Toyota or a similar replacement.

My neighbor has a philosophy that says that, for the cheapest transportation, he buys old but working cars and drives then until they die then junks them. Rinse and repeat.

In the put your money where your mouth is catagory, I have to admit that the "96 Bronco is in the shop for a $700 repair. This could have been a life ending breakdown for the truck but I love that little truck. I've owned it since it was new and it is just perfect for what I use it for. I can't afford to buy a replacement that would be any better so I opted to have it fixed.


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

I feel for ya, Kentucky Dreamer. I HATE it when a car breaks down.

It may not be nearly as bad as you might think. 

Just outta curiosity, do your dash lights work? I've known of times when the dash lights and brake lights were on the same circuit. 

Also, when it was making all of this smoke and you were driving it, did it pull to the right? If a brake caliper was sticking, it would have pulled hard in the direction of the sticking caliper. I've had that happen before. It does stink. And if you drive it long enough, it'll make lots of heat and nasty smoke. If it's stuck pretty tightly, it would be difficult to get the car to go very fast... it would be like trying to accelerate while your foot was on the brakes. 

Any chance you looked at the temperature gauge while seeing the smoke? Did it go up? Or remain in the normal place? 

Did any of the dash warning lights come on when it was acting up?

It is certainly possible it could be bad, such as a transmission type problem. But it's also possible that it's not so bad at all. Kinda hard to say without being there in person. Do you know even a "backyard mechanic" type that could offer a quick opinion? An extra set of senses might help you narrow things down a little even if they wouldn't know exactly what's wrong.

Hang in there. I know it's frustrating. And things can look overwhelming when we don't know exactly what we're facing. 

FWIW, I have a Toyota Sienna with 140k miles on it. I figure I've got at least another 100k miles left in it. And I don't think it's too bad of a choice for a homestead, either. It's AWD so it does pretty well at not getting stuck. Plus, it's got some nice cargo and/or passenger space. Might not be as romantic as a truck but hey, it does what we need it to do. 

(((( )))) (Hugs)


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## halfpint (Jan 24, 2005)

MichaelK! said:


> Actually, I think this post goes straight to the heart of the homesteading movement, and how you deal with this is a measure of your potential success as a homesteader.
> 
> Let's get right down to it. Homesteading is all about self-sufficiency, and self-relience. If you can't even diagnose and repair a car problem, just how do you ever expect to accomplish anything yourself on a homestead?
> 
> ...


I have rebuilt an engine before and at one time could do any repair on my 68VW bug. Unfortunately my brother borrowed it one day and ended up wrecking & bending the frame so I no longer have it. While there are a lot of things I can still do on the newer cars, there are a lot more that I can't do - and most men don't do as many repairs as I. I am capable of using our code reader and often figuring out what to repair, but that is not always the case. With newer cars, it's getting a lot harder to do your own repairs. Pretty much in our house the person who it breaks on is the one who fixes it, although a couple of times I've called my husband and asked if he wants me to fix dinner or the item needing repairs, and usually he would rather me fix dinner and he repair the object when he gets home.

Dawn


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## MichaelK! (Oct 22, 2010)

halfpint said:


> I have rebuilt an engine before and at one time could do any repair on my 68VW bug.
> 
> While there are a lot of things I can still do on the newer cars, there are a lot more that I can't do - and most men don't do as many repairs as I. I am capable of using our code reader and often figuring out what to repair, but that is not always the case.
> 
> With newer cars, it's getting a lot harder to do your own repairs. Pretty much in our house the person who it breaks on is the one who fixes it, although a couple of times I've called my husband and asked if he wants me to fix dinner or the item needing repairs, and usually he would rather me fix dinner and he repair the object when he gets home.


Good for you Dawn! This is what I am talking about, and you are the kind of person that KD needs to emulate. Although today's cars are indeed more complex, they still work on the same basic principles that they did generations ago, and you still fix them in largely the same way. But, let me relate a car story that just happened yesterday that illustrates how technology is making things easier, not harder.

The battery on my son's car went out and he asked for help replacing it. In the course of replacing the battery, I discovered that the headlights weren't shutting off, even with the key off and the car just sitting there. I figured out that the headlight switch was bad and had to be replaced. In the short-term, I pulled the headlight fuses out of the fusebox to keep the battery from continuing to discharge.

With my son in tow, I tried to disassemble the steering column to get at the base of the switch. I was stumped as to how to remove it. My son pulled out his phone and pulled up a UTube video on Saturn steering column disassembly. Five minutes later, we had the column apart and the defective switch in hand. I then took him over to the local junk yard, and we spend 30 minutes wandering through it till we found Saturns with the same switch. Pulled one out, payed 16$, and a hour later had it in place and his car up and running.

Thought this was a great way to teach my son how to be self-reliant, and was pleased that he could teach me a thing or two also. This is I think what KD really needs to understand, that people can learn to be self-reliant, and she shouldn't be just sitting there moaning about how afraid of everything she is.


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## Terri (May 10, 2002)

wogglebug said:


> Far out: is there any chance young son or anyone else has been working park brake without you noticing it?


That would be worth checking. My own son once could not sleep so he went outside and played jet airplane with the parking brake. It was not on to the casual gaze, but it was on enough to cause a problem!


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## Cygnet (Sep 13, 2004)

For survival/self-sufficiency, I've always figured it's best to have two available vehicles. 

I'm home alone right now, as my folks are on vacation for a week. (For those who don't know me, I live with my retired parents -- works out well for all of us.) I have my truck. If the truck fails, I have a street legal ATV for transportation -- around here, they're treated as motorcycles, so I can legally drive them into town if I need something and the truck breaks down.

Food for thought. I'd personally suggest, in your situation, fixing your current vehicle, and then keeping an eye out for a rugged older 4X4 truck for a few grand. If one vehicle breaks down and you don't have money to fix it, you can drive the other until it's repaired. Do make sure to drive both regularly.

I would suggest learning to do very basic, common repairs -- you can take community college classes, at least in my area, for that. Things like changing belts and hoses, identifying what's leaking and either replacing the leaking part or telling the mechanic, "Fix that!", changing or temporarily plugging and re-inflating a tire, etc. Even if never repair your vehicle yourself, at least the mechanic will have a harder time taking advantage of you. (And egads, some of them will try to take advantage of you.) And if you're living in the country, sooner or later, basic mechanical knowledge is important.

And I tend to agree that the problem is a brake caliper. If it's just the brake caliper itself that broke, this is a pretty simple fix even on most modern cars. It's something I would do myself, and I'm far from an expert mechanic.


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## Forcast (Apr 15, 2014)

yep I have 2 cars that I try to keep running, HAHAHA if one wont start I have a fall back. I have no one to call to hitch a ride with.


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## Sunbee (Sep 30, 2008)

My husband drives a '93 Buick Century that has nearly 200,000 miles. The thing that has caused trouble something like what Kentucky Dreamer describes is the computer failing. But repairs are still cheaper than payments on a newer vehicle would be, and that's how we figure if a vehicle needs to be replaced around here: take your repair bills for the last year, divide by twelve, and see what you get. (Not that we finance, but that's how we figure it.) We also pay about $150 for AAA towing (that's the 100 mile package). It pays for itself with the older vehicles we choose to drive.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

transportation is a major limiting factor in our rural lack of public transportation and greater distances between places 

transportation has also been expensive , a horse is no small cost , a car for the miles traveled is much less costly and doesn't require nearly the commitment or daily care 

just as having a good vet would be inportant for a horse a good trustworth mechanic is important for most cars , the days when you can do it all yourself are mostly over 

2 sources of transportation is almost always a good idea , you might be looking at alternate transport that serves a dual purpose , like a truck that you can keep for chores and a car to drive 

maybe a tractor that has a road gear that will do 20 mph and a trailer , it isn't a sports car but it can haul a load and get you to town to pick up parts 

do your best to budget for transport needs often you can get an older car in running shape for reasonable it may not be the best ride but it can be solid backup if you drive it often enough to keep the battery charged and the gas form going bad


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## KentuckyDreamer (Jan 20, 2012)

pookford said:


> My husband's car showed some of those symptoms when one of his brake calipers(?) got stuck and basically resulted in his brake being engaged while he was driving (burning smell, smoke, high RPMs but low speed, engine sounded weird because it was working overtime, etc.) Less than $400 worth of repairs later, the car was good as new.
> 
> My previous car started making odd noises and stalling out, and it turned out some kind of $10 gasket needed to be replaced. I drove that car for another 100,000 miles.
> 
> My point is; don't assume that you have one major $$ issue going on...it could be a couple of smaller, less expensive issues giving you grief. You won't know for sure until you get a repair estimate from a reputable shop. At the same time, I would suggest researching the prices for gently used cars in your area. This decision may not seem so overwhelming once you have all the facts.


Son came by to take the car to the shop....he knew right off....calipers. Not sure how much damage has been done but we are waiting to hear the full diagnostic. 

Still need to get the brake lights figured.


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

Thanks for updating, KD!

Calipers are not such a big deal. Probably a few hundred dollars to get 'er going again!


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Calipers aren't a big deal to replace. The mechanic won't be able to see anything on the outside surface of the flexible hose that connects the caliper with the metal brake line on the frame. On a vehicle with 100,000 miles, or more, have those hoses replaced if the calipers are replaced.

Deterioration inside those hoses can prevent the release of pressure to the caliper when you take your foot off the brake pedal. With the symptoms you experienced, the mechanic also needs to check the wheel bearings on the front. I've seen a locked caliper cause the grease to cook out of the bearings and result in damage. In the worse case the heat generated led to damage of the spindle.


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## Maura (Jun 6, 2004)

Your nine year old is not too young to learn how to check the oil. He can also start learning the parts of a combustion engine. Fan, battery, alternator, radiator. Whenever you do anything to take care of your car, like change the wiper blades, have him help you.

I hope your repairs are cheap and you can get another 100,000 miles or better off your car. I have 130,000 on my Vibe and need need new tires.


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

Hey KD,

Was just wondering about how you made out with your car repairs. ?? Was it as bad as you were thinking it might be? Worse? Not so bad? Did the shop get things all fixed up for you?

Anyway, have thought of you numerous times and wondered how you were doing.


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## Aintlifegrand (Jun 3, 2005)

I do think it's reasonable to expect your Toyota should be repaired and be good to about 250000 miles as long as it's been taken care of
.I drove a Chevy blazer for 367000 with only a fuel pump repair..I let it go when transmission went out..ac was gone by then (for three years)then the heat went out..which was an issue because of the defrost not working..I remember trying to drive in sleet..Lol..husband was furious with me about it so I finally gave in when the transmission starting going...


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## Ernie (Jul 22, 2007)

Better than any working vehicle or spare vehicle, I have found out this past year, is to have a couple of friends who do not mind giving you a ride.

Best way I found to have those kinds of friends is to be the kind of friend who doesn't mind giving someone else a ride.


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## KentuckyDreamer (Jan 20, 2012)

Bellyman said:


> Hey KD,
> 
> Was just wondering about how you made out with your car repairs. ?? Was it as bad as you were thinking it might be? Worse? Not so bad? Did the shop get things all fixed up for you?
> 
> Anyway, have thought of you numerous times and wondered how you were doing.



This is the most embarrassing post ever. EVER. 

When I discovered there were NO brake lights, son came over and ASSUMED it had to be the switch again. When he replaced the switch, still no lights and we decided to call the repair shop. That is when SHTF in the life of my vehicle. Anyone getting an idea here?

Seems son had tightened the brake light switch ( or whatever it is called ) too tightly and the brakes were engaging. If I had known, I could have pulled up on the brake pedal and it would have disengaged. 

So, all that needed done was to loosen the switch, and....get ready for this.....replace every single bulb on the rear of my car. Yep, less than $190.00 and that included fluid changes, etc. 

Moral of the story...more than I care to list :smack


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## Annsni (Oct 27, 2006)

I'm glad it turned out to be nothing big. Don't ever assume that the repair with be many thousands of dollars because honestly, unless you need a whole new engine and electronic system, it won't cost that much for most repairs. A Toyota is a great car and you should definitely have plenty of life left in that thing!! Keep it going. Always, the cheapest car is the one you have.  This also says to make sure you have a great mechanic who you can trust. I LOVE ours and we've been shocked at how inexpensive some of our repair bills have been. When my daughter was ill 3 years ago, her car sat in the driveway for 3 months and when she finally went to drive it, the wheels wouldn't turn. We had it towed to the mechanic (dragged up on a flatbed - AAA covered that), he had it all day and had to take apart the wheels/brakes, clean them, lube them and put it all back together again. It was basically just rust that kept the wheels from turning. Total cost? $36. Can I say I love my mechanic??? Oh - and this is in metro NY on Long Island where everything is overpriced!


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

KentuckyDreamer said:


> This is the most embarrassing post ever. EVER.
> 
> When I discovered there were NO brake lights, son came over and ASSUMED it had to be the switch again. When he replaced the switch, still no lights and we decided to call the repair shop. That is when SHTF in the life of my vehicle. Anyone getting an idea here?
> 
> ...



Thanks for the update, KD!! (((( hugs )))) 

Glad it worked out to be pretty simple things. Often they are. But they sure do feel huge when they're happening to us. LOL!!

Don't be embarrassed. We're your friends. And you learned something without having to spend a whole lot of $$. Life is pretty good..  And now you can think more about other more important things.


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## Terri (May 10, 2002)

All's well that ends well!


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## damoc (Jul 14, 2007)

wogglebug said:


> Just for giggles, check the parking brake. Is it on? If not, can you put it on and feel tension? Is there any noticeable difference/feel/smell/sound driving a few feet with it on as against with it off? What difference do you feel putting park brake on AND OFF while foot brake is depressed and/or off.
> 
> Far out: is there any chance young son or anyone else has been working park brake without you noticing it?


 
yeah check out your brake system the burning smell could be brakes that would also explain the loss of power, grinding sound and the wierdness you described in the brakes.

could be a very simple fix relatively

LOL nevermind sorry already fixed


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## used2bcool13 (Sep 24, 2007)

Well I am soo happy that it turned out to be something manageable. Car repairs can overwhelm anyone who is not handy.


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