# Troy bilt tiller.



## dirtman (Sep 15, 2011)

I picked up a troy bilt pony tiller that had been sitting in a shed since the late eighties. Apparently the guy who bought it used it for two years and then lost interest in gardening. He left the gas in the tank and that was a mess so I cleaned it up as best I could. Still alot of varnish on the bottom and side walls. I cleaned the carb and changed the plug but can't get any spark. It has a magnetron ignition and I can't see why that should have gone bad and I am reluctant to fork out the 35 bucks to replace it unless I am sure it is toast. Any way to test these. Also if there is too much that needs to be done to get it running I'd like to get a cheap replacement engine (like the power horse at northern tool,) but this engine has a shaft for a reverse pulley on it. Anyone know of a replacement engine for these tillers?


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

NT used to sell a direct replacement engine. As far as the test for the ignition I haven't a clue but we it mine I would do a search for a test before buying an engine.

 Al


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

deleted


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

Ignition on small engine is simple. You have the coil, you have the ignition chip, you have the magnets on the flywheel, you have the kill switch. No spark means one of the four is bad. You can easily test magnets holding a screwdriver blade close to them and see if they grab it. If they do and magnet, flywheel, and coil arms are clean (not rusty), then test kill switch either with ohm meter or test light or jumper wire, that doesnt solve it, then its the coil unit. Either replace coil/chip as a unit or try wiring a $15 conversion chip (one meant to convert point type ignition on older small engines) into the kill wire.

You might find the coil/chip unit bit cheaper than $35, but thats probably about as cheap as it gets. Oh and you have to gap the coil arms to the magnets on flywheel if you remove and replace coil for any reason. Just find bit thin cardboard and let magnet hold legs of coil, tighten coil mount and pull out cardboard. Thats it.


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## foxtrapper (Dec 23, 2003)

Agree with HJ, that ignition is a lot cheaper than new engine.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/su...questions/Ignition System Theory and Testing/
and
The Magnetron Ignition System
and
http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/magnetron_retro-fit.pdf

That said, I've known a number of folk who have used Honda or Harborfreight Greyhound engines on Troybilt tillers with happy results. It's a small engine, really they all will fit.


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## plowjockey (Aug 18, 2008)

This is about as close as you can get for a replacement engine and they are not all that cheap.

Troybilt Tiller Engines for Troybuilt Gardenway Troy bilt

I agree with the others, that if it ran fine, when it was parked, it probably has plenty of life life left, if you can get it to spark.

I have a 1980 Pony that will start on the first pull, with the original B&S dual shaft engine.


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## plowjockey (Aug 18, 2008)

foxtrapper said:


> That said, I've known a number of folk who have used Honda or Harborfreight Greyhound engines on Troybilt tillers with happy results. It's a small engine, really they all will fit.


The problem with Pony tillers, is that they require an engine, with an extra "reverser shaft", otherwise there is no reverse on the tiller, which can get annoying, dragging a 200 pound tiller backwards.


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## dirtman (Sep 15, 2011)

I ended up ordering a new Magnetron unit. I don't know why it would have went bad from sitting around for 23 years though. I called a local part shop and they wanted $59 bucks for it. I got it online for $29 from MFG supply plus $7 shipping. Also picked up a carb rebuild kit just in case. Thanks for all the help. I'll let you know if it works.


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## HermitJohn (May 10, 2002)

dirtman said:


> I ended up ordering a new Magnetron unit. I don't know why it would have went bad from sitting around for 23 years though. I called a local part shop and they wanted $59 bucks for it. I got it online for $29 from MFG supply plus $7 shipping. Also picked up a carb rebuild kit just in case. Thanks for all the help. I'll let you know if it works.


'Usually its the ignition chip rather than the coil, but the chip is molded in resin as part of the coil. Like I said you can try splicing in a aftermarket conversion ignition chip meant to replace points on older small engines. You splice it into kill switch wire. I tend to do that on chainsaws and such where the magneto coil is really high dollar and its worth taking time to experiment. But since I keep few on hand, I try it on other engines when I get no spark. Usually that is the problem, but occasionally it will be the magneto coil itself. And I have no idea why they fail from setting unused but they do. I assume cracks develop and moisture gets to some important component. Just be glad the magneto coil is still available for your engine. You get very old and model specific parts get unavailable and you have to start looking for parts that are "close" and try to make them fit and work. I could no longer get magento coil for mid seventies flat head Kohler 8hp. Found out from lot googling that the coil from an older 3 hp Tecumseh would fit and work fine. It was whole lot cheaper than last price for Kohler coil. It did work (identical in fact except had longer spark plug wire) and I replaced points with aftermarket electronic chip since the higher quality points had gotten rare and expensive. Starts better than it ever did.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

I love it. Local dealer wanted 50.00 for the brushes to rebuild the starter oin my ATV. Got a whole brand new starter for $40.00 from Starters, Alternators and more for Cars, Trucks, Tractors and ATVs on line plus $6.00 shipping. Another dealer wanted 126.50 for an electronic ignition on a kholor engine I bought one from IGNITION MODULE 5258402 M18 M20 MV16 MV18 MV20 [5258402S] : Kohler Engines and Kohler Engine Parts Store, Genuine Kohler Engine Parts for 94 dollars plus change. When I asked the daeler about the price difference he said building cost. DA I think the parts I ordered came from a building too.

 Al


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## dirtman (Sep 15, 2011)

As someone who was a long time building contractor and bought a ton of tools over the years, it always made me crazy that it was invariably cheaper to buy a new tool than have one serviced. I have a whole 10 X 12 storage building full of worn out a broken tools. I always think I find a use for them, but seldom do.


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