# pole barn house



## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

this is the picture that I am using as an example to the builder of what i want when he starts building in about 5 weeks.ours will be 30x64 with 10 ft sidewaalls. We have a ton of windows for the front..which will be on the south side in a small field surrounded by trees and thick brush on a fairly level spot. Do you think that the overhand roof on porch is a good idea or a bad idea. I like the idea of a covered spot for bbq ing and such, like the ideaof sun protection in the summer..but will it be too dark or in the winter totally dark? We have minimal windows in the rest of the house. I do have this same question posted in this forum but w/o picture. Thought maybe I could get more opinions with a pic and such. thanks. I need to make a decision quickly and once it is up there will be no changing. lori


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## Guest (Sep 26, 2009)

Never ever turn down a porch! In this case it'll take the place from looking like a Morton Building Barn to making it look like a HOME.


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## ronbre (Apr 26, 2009)

some folks around here have built houses out of pole barns..if you use metal they are a bit noisy as they creak..and metal roofs will eventually leak.


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## NTRotty (Mar 11, 2009)

I am considering this using a Morton building, I like a simple roof design and ability to do whatever I want with interior floor layout. Fireplace or wood stove of any type in yours?


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

well as far as the house its the best I can manage. I will not go in debt and I wil have a place on our land that will be big enough for all of us. I think its rather cute. I can live with rattling but not with water. If the roof leaks we will have to replace it someday with a regular roof i guess. I just don't know what else we can do. Its not like we have a ton of money and we are already spending our retirement.


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## RonM (Jan 6, 2008)

I would go with 8 ft walls and I have a ranch house with a 4 ft overhang on the front and it makes my living room dark, wish I didnt have it. My house is facing SSW and should have positioned it so I get morning sun in the kitchen. Didnt think about it at the time I was building it...


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I love it. Especially the porch and windows.

There is a member who's house is out of one of these, so similar. I'll have to see if I can find that thread with photos.

Angie


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## ebook (Sep 19, 2006)

We live in a pole barn house that is 36 x 45 with 10 foot side walls and a 6 foot porch off the front. We have two 6x5 windows on the front and our door and I feel like we get plenty of sun in the winter and not very much in the summer. This past summer (we live in Southern Iowa) we did not have/run an air conditioner at all and there was only one week were it was above 76ÂºF inside at night (or most any time for that matter). I will have the AC in next year though so I can cut the humidity on those sweaty days and so our floor doesn't sweat as much.

Let me know if you have any other questions ... we love ours!


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## Alice In TX/MO (May 10, 2002)

Absolutely do the porch!


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## Minelson (Oct 16, 2007)

Our new (old) house has a huge screened in porch...that is one of the main reason why we purchased it. The porch faces east so it would get darker on that side of the house faster anyway. The mornings are awesome for having a cup o coffee  The rest of the house is darker than I'm used to...but that is because of the huge trees. I would take into consideration the trees more than the porch. There is nothing better than having a nice covered or screened in porch! The last place we lived in was the first we ever had without one...Yuckers!!!! Put on the porch!


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

http://homesteadingtoday.com/showthread.php?t=184884

that thread is about the same thing... pay attention to ericjeeper's post about his place. it is a building such as your photo.

And there are other ideas there also.

Angie


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## Sawmill Jim (Dec 5, 2008)

Love the porch:clap::clap: There is lots of metal roof's done around here . Haven't heard of any leak problems if installed right even though most metal is not roof metal it is side metal . If you can use large doors if you going to live there as long as you can .


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

thanks for the input folks. Thanks for the link angie..I did check it out and willgo back and make notes.I think that we will have to go with the porch. Otherwise it will look to much like a barn. Is straight south then a bad direction to have the big windows? The house is set up with dining room and living room ..also 2 bedrooms alomg the front..south as of now. the side with the porch
The kitchen would be on the back side..which with my plans as they are would be north. Master bedroom, bath and bedroom retreat retreat would take up the whole west side..we will have a french door on that side and perhaps will see soome nice sunsets. I have about 3 days to change my plans before I am locked in. Just hoping to get it right the first time
east side 2 bedrooms.


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

nt rotty
I am going to ask about radiant heating,but I am afraid it will be out of our price range. Costs have been adding up..500 septic permit, $ 1,000 to run from the city water tap, 1200 for post protectors, 2800 for septic, 1,000 for dozer work, and I think someone said gravel is now 450-500 a truck load. hoping to find a gold nugget stashed in the gravel :>)
Definetely will have a propane gas log ventless fireplace if i have to charge it on my credit card:>)


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

e book
which direction is your porch facing? thanks


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## glenn amolenaar (Mar 3, 2007)

Go with the porch you will enjoy it, it is worth the little increase in cost. As for metal roofs leaking if it is installed properly with the sealed fastners and gaskets it should be leak free. We have several metal roofs one barn is over 30 years old and has just started to have a seam leak.
Glenn


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## HappyFarmer (Jun 17, 2006)

We added on a porch very similar to the picture, with an added glass sliding door where the picture shows no windows. Our downstairs living quarters are 1/2 underground North & West side. The pole porch is on the long east side.

It gets dark inside (towards the back of your picture). Where we have the slider it's not so bad, we don't need a light during the day. The back away from the windows gets very dark & we need a light, but those are bedrooms so not a biggie for us unless the alarm clock doesn't go off.

On our porch we put in 3 sky lights in the roof and it's helped a LOT. Also as a side note the porch is the BEST place to sit during a 100 degree day-always a breeze & cool. Depending on where you live & the prevailing winds this could be a nice plus.

HF


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## Bluebird (Feb 1, 2006)

We used an old calf shed on our property to build our boarding kennel in. It's the same type building that you have in your pict. We put hot water heat in the floor (ourselves) and had a contractor hook it up(2 inches of cement over the top holds the heat like a dream). We have a 12 foot "porch" over the front, as you show and I hang laundry outside even when it's raining. If I had to build a house again, I would use this type of builidng in a heartbeat. We live with Cold Cold winters. It's like walking into a tropical paradise in the winter and in the summer, it's nice and cool. Seldom have to turn on the air. Good luck with your new home!!


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## just_sawing (Jan 15, 2006)

Check with your Log home builder on your roof. The typical pole barn builder doesn't worry about a little condensation. This is handled with the people using metal on log homes. It isn't a problem but is a different technique.
If you are going to be on a slab and not desert area I would have a 18" grade on my yard. People don't realize that the gravel under the slab can be like a bowl for water. Slab is good but drainage drainage drainage.
Good Luck


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## deaconjim (Oct 31, 2005)

My question would be how much house do you want with your porch? I couldn't imagine living in a house without one. The few times I've had to, I built a porch in pretty short order.


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## cfabe (Feb 27, 2005)

I would definately go with the porch, I think the photo you showed looks very nice. I don't see much purpose for the 10ft sidewalls unless this is a temporary thing and eventually the building will return to utility uses. Or, if you plan to use part for living and part for garage/shop/barn, taller walls would make sense. Taller walls would give you a higher porch roof which would help with the light. You could always add skylights or sun tubes for additional light if needed.


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## Wisconsin Ann (Feb 27, 2007)

Pole building houses are fairly common in some parts of Wisconsin (particularly on the sand flats). Very sturdy, very solid, very good with snow loads. NOT very adaptable to changing things around, but if you have a plan you're happy with, it's really great.

I have some friends who live in one and they love it. Little to no maintenance. No need to reroof or put on new shingles after a storm (just go up and make sure all the screws are in place and nothing loosened up), washing is a breeze (hose and sprayer). Their house is 30 years old now. They've added a greenhouse/spa area and that's about all that's been done to it. 

One thing to watch tho....the colors WILL fade over the years. doesn't matter which steel and painting technique they use. Some of the colors fade faster. Don't choose red (turns pink) or the teal (turns to an icky pastel blue..like chalk). Some of the lovely dark greens, depending on the company, will turn to chalklike bluey/green, too. 

The tans and greys weather beautifully. The browns turn to a nice deep tan. Orange goes soft over the years. 

oh...my opinion...the porch is glorious. Will shield you from the summer sun, but allow the winter lower sun into the windows.


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## big rockpile (Feb 24, 2003)

Ok I found with Pole Buildings you might as well go with Stick Built because you still have to be able to nail up Sheet Rock and stuff.

big rockpile


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## Beeman (Dec 29, 2002)

Let's talk more about construction. Are you using trusses? What spacing between trusses? I would go 16", I have a building 24" spacing and the roof is wavy. Are they sheathing the roof with OSB before applying the metal? Everything I build now is done that way and is how the metal manufacturers recommend. The heat thru the roof can be pretty rough, to insulate when we installed a metal roof we used foil/foam/foil under the metal. Will you have an attic or open ceiling? Be sure you have ventilation. If you will not have sheathing the temp differences with metal will make condensation which will drip. Low pitch roofs like the porch in the picture can be damaged by wind getting under the metal or high snow loads. Metal roofs are also tough on gutters when it snows, I didn't see any gutters in the pictured building. Attaching gutters can be a trick too depending on how the building is finished.


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## cowbelle (Mar 5, 2009)

Years ago when I built a house of similar shape, I wanted the morning (east) sun in the kitchen window, and to do the BBQing on the west side in the afternoon. I had porches on both sides, and put the clear panels over the windows, so plenty of light, with shelter also. Great places for plants!! I sited the house to get the light where I wanted it. South windows will get lots of heat/light in the winter, but might be too much in the summer - so if south = porch side, you're probably fine. I sure liked the morning sun cheering me up in the kitchen!! My bedroom was also on that side. I loved planning the interior to function well - when you come in the house (hopefully a door right by the kitchen) with an armload of groceries, is there a place to set them down and unload without moving them too far? Are there enough electrical outlets? Is the laundry close to the bedrooms/mudroom? The mudroom/entry should have a phone, laundry, and at least 1/2 bath and a drain!! A house I had had been built by a family that raised hogs and the mudroom had all those features - wonderful! Try to have most of the plumbing on the same side of the house to save $$


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

bluebird..how expensive and how confusing was putting in the radiant heat? any advice. If i can afford it I really want to do that as I have heard great things about it.
as for the structure itself..it is posts every 8 ft, trusses every 4. They do not put on roof sheathing. they are going to bubble wrap all side walls and roof which is supposed to be an effective vapor barrier. we will go back and insulate as much as we can.
Jim, I will keep in mind the ground grade you mentioned. Don't need water under the cement. Also I would go regular stick built except because of our limited financial situation. I am just hoping they can dry it in with the money we have. Eventually we will hopefully have money to finish it. I just can't come up with it all at once. the upfront costs are why we are having a pole structure vs a stick built. there was a world of diff in the estimates and I can't swing stick.

thank you for the color heads up. I had picked out colors simular to the picture..now I wonder if the blue will fade to UGLY> perhaps i will switch to greys?I like the idea of some color tho, but not if it fades bad
I can't believe it is actually about to happen. We have had the first 21 acres for about 4 years. I have been digging through house plans and dreaming on this for that long. I have talked to so many contractors,,everything from basement to steel to pole buildings. My mother passsed leaving me a little to get started. And since it wasn't enough to really do anything we have pulled our retirment. We are banking on this working


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## oz in SC V2.0 (Dec 19, 2008)

We were going to go the pole building route and were all set when the builder(a local guy who has been a God send to us) suggested we go with stick built.

It came out to about $30,000 to be dried in,plumbing roughed in for a bathroom but without the septic or permanent power.

It is not a steel building but has sawmill siding and a metal roof and measures 30'x36' with two levels.


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

that is beautiful....


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## oz in SC V2.0 (Dec 19, 2008)

Well thank you.

It is going to be our new home in a few months,once we finish the inside to be liveable.


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## Sawmill Jim (Dec 5, 2008)

WE got two levels at 30 they are ok near 60 no way .


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

I am closer to 60 then 30..and I do like the levels but won't go with 2 levels. I want no stairs at all. For every year after 50 I feel like I have aged 10. So no stairs for this girl,


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## Toads tool (Jun 7, 2007)

big rockpile said:


> Ok I found with Pole Buildings you might as well go with Stick Built because you still have to be able to nail up Sheet Rock and stuff.
> 
> big rockpile


BINGO!

Look and price out what it would cost you to put up a 2x6 framing with 2x4stringers on the outside to attach the metal too.
That is what we did two years ago when we built our metal coverd house. 
We found that there was little to no savings to be had using posts and beams compared to conventional framing.
The inside finishing is where all the savings in post and beam are lost.


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## used2bcool13 (Sep 24, 2007)

LaMonchalover,

I think your picture is beautiful and I love the way rain sounds on a metal roof. Congrats on being able to do it!


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## ericjeeper (Feb 25, 2006)

I am unable to post a link to my online photos.. Because their site is down. I live in a 40x80 pole barn house.Radiant heat in the slab.. Love it all.. 
Many have mentioned they require more 2xs than a conventional build. This is true. But it also gives you a thermal break. Biggest advantage is all framing is done INSIDE out of the weather.Once the shell was up all framing was out of the elements.
here is a link to my online gallery once they get it back up. 
www.pbase.com/ericjeeper
then go to the "polebarn house gallery" enjoy


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## hillbillytn (Sep 28, 2009)

Pole barns will last about 25 to 35 years. Then you will have
post damage from termites or rot. Tn septic permits are 350
last I heard, will ask inspector when I install next line. 2800
is a bit high for 2 bedrooms septic. How many feet of line.


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

i think that was for a 4 bdrm and the permit is for sure 500.00..with no apology for the price.
Do post protectors add on any life? If the building lives 35 years that will be long enough. If the kids want to fix up termite damage after that then they can, i wont be around to care:>)


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## hillbillytn (Sep 28, 2009)

If post is in ground. 4 bdrm maybe.


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

post protectors are 1300 at least..i would hope they add some lif


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## deb (Jul 27, 2002)

lamoncha lover said:


> well as far as the house its the best I can manage. I will not go in debt and I wil have a place on our land that will be big enough for all of us. I think its rather cute. I can live with rattling but not with water. If the roof leaks we will have to replace it someday with a regular roof i guess. I just don't know what else we can do. Its not like we have a ton of money and we are already spending our retirement.


Keep the porch. Check with Morton to see how they keep water out of their buildings then see if your builder can match it.

deb
in wi


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## ebook (Sep 19, 2006)

Here is a link to my wife's blog detailing our pole building house construction. We had the building put up and then finished it with the help of many people. Ours faces straight south and gets a nice warming sun in the winter and the porch keeps the sun out in the heat of summer. You'll have to click through the older posts to see them all.

Pole Building House


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## Beeman (Dec 29, 2002)

lamoncha lover said:


> bluebird..how expensive and how confusing was putting in the radiant heat? any advice. If i can afford it I really want to do that as I have heard great things about it.
> as for the structure itself..it is posts every 8 ft, trusses every 4. They do not put on roof sheathing. they are going to bubble wrap all side walls and roof which is supposed to be an effective vapor barrier. we will go back and insulate as much as we can.



Trusses every 4 ft? Are these wooden 2x4 trusses? Bubble wrap will deteriorate from the heat and it will be hot under that metal. Will you be leaving the ceiling open? Research what ET1SS did with spray insulation.


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

yes its posts evey 8 trusses every 4. I guess they are just standard barn trusses. Reasearch what who did? Sorry I must have missed something. As for the bubble wrap...wish folks that are sposed ot be building would tell ya up front what works and what dont. I am getting increasingly confused.thanks for the info,,what other reasonable options do we have?>


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

we will be closing he ceiling in...


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## Common Tator (Feb 19, 2008)

When we redo our ranch house, we will put a long porch along the front, and add solar light tubes in the kitchen, bathrooms, and hallways for natural light.


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## Beeman (Dec 29, 2002)

The folks that build things like this are looking to maximize their profiy for the minimal outlay. They don't have to live with it. The only trusses that would do what you're saying would be the steel type that hold a 2x on edge for the roof metal to attach to. If closing the ceiling in you would want ventilation from the eaves and out the ridge, be very sure it will have this or you will have a rain forest in your attic. Bugs and critters can be a problem especially if they're not sheathing the roof. The ribs in the metal will leave big gaps at the eave line. Be sure there is something to attach gutters to, with a truss every 4 ft. it doesn't sound like you'll have eaves. Is there going to be an overhang past the walls? Look at the picture you posted. You will see the roof overhangs the building at the peay side and the back side. Did you show this picture to the builder? 
ET1SS has had many posts about his metal building house and the insulation.


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## lamoncha lover (Mar 1, 2009)

beeman
thanks for the input.
we will not be hanging sheet rock off the ceiling. Think we will probably go with metal. Less weight? I told the builder guy I wanted vented soffits with a 1 foot overhang. HIs estimate includes gutters.
I was so very excited. I will search for ET1SS posts.


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## badlander (Jun 7, 2009)

Our homestead is a 48X80 pole barn construction with an overhanging porch much like the pictured building. Metal roof, metal exterior walls, metal ceiling. Walls drywalled (need finished) on the inside. It is well insulated, and so far we haven't noticed any creaking, or any other noises in it. I LOVE the overhang porch best of all. It faces woods on our North side with the south side giving full sun exposure for warmth. I bet real money that the corner posts in the building are probably osage orange wood as that is what was used in the current owners new homestead that he is building next door. 

Gutters are in place. Will post a pic as soon as we get settled in.

I see a lot of pole type construction being used in houses around Northern Missouri. Most Amish homesteads are pole barn construction as are most vacation properties. Economical, efficient and easy to care for. 

I'm happy for you!


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

Your smallest concern: the porch will get a lot of sunlight. The sun is lower in the sky in the winter and should be fine. The porch will shield the house from the summer sun.

I fear the builder is just doing what you want, without a discussion. You want a pole barn style and you are getting it. Post stuck in the ground, trusses on 48 inch centers, poured concrete floor, metal roof with plastic to keep the roof's condensation from dripping on your head. Right?


To insulate and drywall the walls, he'll have to put up a 2 x 4 wall, with studs every 16 or 24 inches. Most barn trusses are not designed to carry any load, so attaching ceiling rafters on 16 inch centers and then drywall to the roof trusses is a code violation. 

Paying for a pole barn and then framing it in like a stick built house is costly. Buying trusses designed for 48 inch spacing and then adding a bunch of construction lumber so you can make a ceiling is another added expense.

Up here, we often add sheets of foil backed foam insulation under a metal roof. Mostly to get the condensation from dripping on the cattle or machinery. Those metal roofs sure get hot in the summer, up here.

If you get enough sheets of plastic and foam insulation under the concrete floor, you can really cut down on the number of weeks you'll need to run your dehumidifier. Don't know how you'd handle carpet on concrete. Mold being such an issue lately.

I know awhile ago, people were complaining about the chemicals leaching out of their subfloor and paneling. That stuff they use now on pole barns is safe? Better than the copper arsinate on posts a few years ago.


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