# High tensile wire, low tension fence?



## subiej (May 11, 2015)

Hi All,

I can't seem to find the answer to this question anywhere- hoping you all can help.

We have one ox and 3 Icelandic sheep, who are trained to electric fencing. I've been using a combination of polywire and netting for them, which has been working well.

This spring, I want to construct an electrified, 5-wire perimeter fence with high-tensile wire, but I do not want to go to the bother of building the bracing required for fencing that is actually under high tension (250 lb).

My question is, assuming I use reasonably sturdy fence posts, *can I use high tensile wire, insulators, etc., but plan to keep a lower tension on the fenceâ just enough to prevent major sagging*? We have a neighbor using this setup with 2 wires for his cattle and, although it's not pretty, it does the job just fine. 

I guess my main question is, is there any reason this couldn't work? Would I have such bad sagging that I would have trouble keeping the lower wires from touching each other? They will be spaced as closely as 6-7" at the bottom, for the sheep. Perhaps I would just need more closely-spaced line posts, but that's ok with me. 

Is there anything else I'm missing here? It seems a bit overkill to install this crazy, complicated, heavily-braced high-tension fence for a few animals who seem content to stay put and eat their grass. They've shown no desire to hurl themselves at the fence or anything.

One more relevant detail: I would like to use a couple of existing lines of mature trees as fence "posts" to allow the animals access to the treeline for shade, fodder, etc. I realize it will be a little trickier to get the spacing just right on the irregularly-shaped trees, but I don't mind spending the time on it. 

(I'm going to create a separate thread about using the trees as fence posts, but any insight on that is most welcome here too!)

Many thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Susan


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

True "hi-tensile wire" is stiff and hard to work with.
Just use normal "electric fence wire" and just enough tension to keep the wires from sagging, or use lots of line posts

I prefer Aluminum 12.5 Ga wire because it's easy to work with, carries more current with less resistance and will never rust. 

I use telephone poles set 4 feet deep with no extra bracing, and line posts 50 feet apart

Avoid using live trees as posts since it will only result in problems later on


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## subiej (May 11, 2015)

Thanks Bearfootfarm! I'd heard that the non high-tensile wire is more prone to sagging, which I think is what I'm trying to combat. Are you able to keep these fairly sag-free, even without alot of tension on them? Again, I need them to be fairly closely-spaced (6"), so sagging=not good.

Also, how closely spaced are your line posts? 

Would love to hear any other thoughts on this- thanks!


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## Rectifier (Jun 12, 2011)

For medium to low-tensile I like 14 gauge wire which is very easy to work with. It doesn't take much to pull it straight. Most wire will eventually sag as the posts shift, unless you use tension springs somewhere in the system.

Also, look up the "floating brace". I use them extensively. You can build a high-tensile brace in 5 minutes with just one extra post. If the ground is soft, I will bolster an important corner with a buried tire as an anchor. To be fair, that is a lot of work to dig in.

Tighter wires can have wider spacing, both between posts and between wires. If they are tight enough, no critter can shoot the gap. As I will claim to anyone, sheep will respect a 1' gap between wires if the wires are tight enough and hot enough that the sheep cannot get through without receiving multiple heavy shocks.

I also do not like trees as posts, I've tried it a few times. Short term, sap may run onto the insulators and short them out, long term the tree will grow and mess everything up.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

subiej said:


> Thanks Bearfootfarm! I'd heard that the non high-tensile wire is more prone to sagging, which I think is what I'm trying to combat. Are you able to keep these fairly sag-free, even without alot of tension on them? Again, I need them to be fairly closely-spaced (6"), so sagging=not good.
> 
> Also, how closely spaced are your line posts?
> 
> Would love to hear any other thoughts on this- thanks!


My line posts are spaced at 50 feet and it's easy to use tensioners to tighten them enough to prevent sagging, but they are still loose enough that they seldom break if a tree falls on them. 

I use these on each run of wire:


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## subiej (May 11, 2015)

Thanks so much for the details, Barefootfarm and Rectifer. Wow- I'm surprised that you are able to space your posts so widely, Barefootfarm, with the low-tension wire. I guess there IS, of course, a certain amount of tension on the wires, even if not the official, 250lbs. I think I'll just have to experiment with my spacing, since I will have so many lines. 

Great to know about sheep, Rectifer, and I will definitely look up the floating brace. Do you use that with the 14 gauge wire? Thanks again- and any additional information is always welcome!


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## haypoint (Oct 4, 2006)

Soil type is a factor. While I've never heard of posts spread over 36 feet, it takes a huge amount of pressure to keep such long runs supported. Braced corner posts are not difficult to build. 

Low tension high tensile fence will sag and if an animal ran into it, would likely become entangled. A tight fence would bounce them back.

Running a high tensile fence in and out to catch trees will place a huge amount of strain on the insulators. Wire pulling out or wires pressing in, cheap insulators won't last a week. 

5 rows of wire is a lot of weight and expense. I'd give up my thoughts of skimping on the corner posts, put them in with horizontal wood brace and diagonal wire stretchers.

Your poly fence was visible. A high tensile fence with great spaces between posts is nearly invisible.


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## Rectifier (Jun 12, 2011)

I use floating braces everywhere. If I'm making a sweeping curve, I will floating brace the posts on the inside, to keep them from leaning over. I've lost old corner posts that I inherited, and rather than drive a new corner post, floating braced the closest pair at the appropriate angle, making a rounded corner.

They work well and the cost is only one extra post (and a $2 wire strainer, if you are building them properly)


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