# Electrical question, Can I split 200 amps service to two 100 amp



## JohnP (Sep 1, 2010)

We're finally getting electrical service. Opted for the 200 amp service and I have a shop and a cabin to run electric to. The meter/main box will be provided and goes on the pole. The lugs accept 4/0 alum. The engineering guy told me it would be best for me to run 200 amps power to the shop and then put a 100 amp breaker in the shop to run to the cabin. A friend of mine had 50 ft of 4/0 x 2 plus ground leftover from when he had service put in. The elec co wants $7.50/mth for a dawn to dusk light but I'd rather have one I can turn on/off. I also have a telephone pole lying around here. So.........

I was thinking about using the pole to put my own light on and running that 4/0 to that pole and from that pole run 100 amp service to the cabin and another to the shop. Is there even a box that will do this sort of thing and if so, what would it be called. (a square-D model # would be awesome) All I'm seeing on lowes is load centers that take 20+ breakers but all I need is two 80-100 amp breakers to split the service and 2/0 - 4/0 lugs for incoming and then the breakers would naturally be smaller ga. #2-4 or so. Then I can put small indoor load centers in the cabin and shop.

RE: the light. The meter/main box has a sub panel that accepts 4 single or 2 double breakers, up to 100 amp, so I can run a separate circuit to the pole for the light. Doesn't have to come off of this other "service splitting" box.

The cost of running 4/0 alum to the shop is $1500 which is why I'm wanting to split it at this pole. It's a tiny shop and tiny cabin so I don't need 200 amp going to either. I could almost get away with putting two 50 amp breakers in the sub panel of the meter/main box and run one of each to the cabin and shop but when/if we get a clothes drier, that would kind of eat up that 50 amps, technically. 

Thanks, John


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## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

If you're only gaining 50 foot by using the free wire why not forget it and run both from the meter/main box off the breakers there. Then run your light off a breaker in the shop.


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## MOSTBCWT (May 5, 2016)

Yes you can split iy


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

JohnP said:


> We're finally getting electrical service. Opted for the 200 amp service and I have a shop and a cabin to run electric to. The meter/main box will be provided and goes on the pole. The lugs accept 4/0 alum. The engineering guy told me it would be best for me to run 200 amps power to the shop and then put a 100 amp breaker in the shop to run to the cabin. A friend of mine had 50 ft of 4/0 x 2 plus ground leftover from when he had service put in. The elec co wants $7.50/mth for a dawn to dusk light but I'd rather have one I can turn on/off. I also have a telephone pole lying around here. So.........
> 
> I was thinking about using the pole to put my own light on and running that 4/0 to that pole and from that pole run 100 amp service to the cabin and another to the shop. Is there even a box that will do this sort of thing and if so, what would it be called. (a square-D model # would be awesome) All I'm seeing on lowes is load centers that take 20+ breakers but all I need is two 80-100 amp breakers to split the service and 2/0 - 4/0 lugs for incoming and then the breakers would naturally be smaller ga. #2-4 or so. Then I can put small indoor load centers in the cabin and shop.
> 
> ...


A diagram would be helpful. 
Getting Nema 3 boxes (outdoor rated) boxes is expensive, plus the watertight connectors....whatever you decide, I would have all sub panels indoor. 
If I have this right, you have your main service panel at a pole (and the meter)...you want to run 200amp to a light pole, with a sub panel on it, so it can power the light (15 amp), and have two feeds, one 100amp to garage, and one 100amp to cabin? 

I would nix that idea, if that is the case. 200amp panels are cheap. I would run your 4/0 from main service panel to garage or cabin, and that sub panel in either building would have a 100 amp breaker to feed the other building's sub panel. Saves the extra outdoor rated box, 100 amp breaker and fittings, as you'll need sub panels for both buildings anyways. From the closet building to light pole, run a small cable (as small as possible calculating voltage drop). Then you can switch light pole from a building and/or switch on pole.


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## JohnP (Sep 1, 2010)

Ok, I'm finding them now. Just had to narrow down(refine) the # of spaces/circuits. $130 plus probably the same for breakers. Outdoor boxes aren't much more than indoor these days. Used to be a lot higher. Most also allow feed through for downstream load centers. Exactly what I need. I can buy two 125ft rolls of UF direct bury 10-2 romex for $80ea and run little 60/70 amp load centers ($15-20 and I think I have one) in the cabin/shop, plus have my light. So for less than $500. When/if I need or can afford more, I'll up-size and use conduit. 

I know I said 100 amps + 100 amps but that was just theoretical and based on splitting 200 and I didn't know if there was any specialty product out there. 

All we really need is to run a window a/c unit that pulls 10 amps @ 110 volts, some light bulbs, occasional microwave, laptops and tv. 60 amps ought to do fine. I've also got a small chest freezer that pulls 5 amps and if need be, it can go in the shop as it's 75' from where I'll put my light pole. The cabin is 95'. Voltage drop at 100' with 10 gauge is 111.784 volts. The shop (1 car garage size) just needs lights and a couple of outlets for tools plus a small mig which will go on a 40 amp 220 circuit and a small 110 compressor which can be switched off when welding although it's pretty tight and only runs when I'm using air tools so I don't think I'll need to worry about it. If we get a drier, it can go in the shop or it's own shed for summer and in the cabin (or camper attached to the cabin) in the winter. We usually line dry in warm weather anyway.

This is typical poor homesteader temporary stuff to get by until we build our house which is on the opposite end of the property. Service pole is centrally located.

We've been running on 305 watts of solar plus a generator a couple of hours a night for 5+ years so this will be a major upgrade.

Trenching 2 foot down to run 2 inch conduit and 4/0 wire just isn't in the budget right now. 10ga romex buried a few inches by hand is. The shop is 3/4 of the way built. I finally found a way to make money out here in the sticks but it's taken up all our savings to get going on that. Electric finally coming through was a bit of an untimely but nice surprise. Been going round and round on easement issues for over a year. I've got electric on up the road at my neighbor's vacant MH just to use my welder and compressor.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

..........


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

I get max 30 amp (pushing it at that) load for 100' of #10 copper. Not 100%, as I'm not a electrician, but I recall reading and hearing you want no more than 5% VD (stateside rules). 
Hopefully, you'll be burying underground (UF) rated Romex. 
Consider more than a few inches...

Please don't consider my suggestions as being pushy etc...I say to each their own. I've gone beyond the code book rules on many occasions myself. Up here, we can't use UF in direct bury applications...everything has to have mechanical protection (conduit or metal jacket). 
Try to ensure the cable is well covered in sand. 

A real temp option, is to get a 100' RV cord, put a receptacle at main service panel (and 30amp breaker in it), and away you go...


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Sent pm, were in the same area.


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