# Least expensive house (yet another thread)



## Warwalk (May 25, 2011)

It's always a favorite topic for people to ask how inexpensively a house can be built, not understanding all the variables (is the lot sloped? what's the foundation? square feet? finish? flooring? etc...?). 

Well, here's another one ~ but hopefully with enough detail to tighten up the picture a little bit: What would be a ballpark figure for a shell of a house; steel framing members 16" o.c., 9', steel pre-painted siding, standing seam roof, house on concrete piers 3' high, 1500 sq ft rectangular w/ 10' porch all sides... 

No insulation, no sheetrock, coldwater PEX plumbing only, wire run through conduit, any windows and doors single pane only, no HVAC, no kitchen or bath (only stubbed out)... 

I'm really just looking for an "off the top of your head guesstimate" ~ no calculations. All work would be done by myself except for roofing, so basically just a dried-in structure. The structure would be for a tropical (high moisture / high termites) environment which is why I chose steel. I'd probably simply spray paint all internal walls. This isn't meant to be a finished project again ~ just a dried-in semi-habitable structure.

Your thoughts? (also, anyone in the steel trade by all means pass me a number or e-mail! =)


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## darkwing (Oct 14, 2012)

30x50 bolt together barn kit 7000.00. Porch 4.00 sq ft . figure 200.00 for labor per window, door, etc. For the floor no point putting wood so I guess concrete slab and good luck getting what you want. The last barn I built the concrete guy made a whole lot more than I.


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## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

not exactly your spec. but two Ebay buildings
$3000
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duro-Steel-...RECT-Backyard-Storage-Shed-Shop-/290925825051 no floor or wall ends,

some bigger $16000 but the extra size would probably cover some of your add ons
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Facto...ilding-Prefabricated-Garage-Kit-/330921061233 no floor


some 30' x 50' http://www.factorysteeloverstock.com/CLONES_30X50X14.html
$8 to 9000 for building only no floor. 

I realize this is not the way you describe the construction, of the building but 

but if you can do it for $25, a square foot, $1500 is $37,500. I think conventional construction is pushing $125 a square foot, complete, and that is not fancy, ( and your description would be fairly conventional construction methods.)
at one time labor was considered about 30 to 50% of the cost, 

some interesting info on building http://www.nahb.org/generic.aspx?genericContentID=169974

this says labor about a 1/3 of materials
http://www.michaelcarliner.com/files/HE0303-MSC-Cost.pdf

average sq ft cost
http://askville.amazon.com/cost-square-foot-build-average-house/AnswerViewer.do?requestId=76109265


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## Warwalk (May 25, 2011)

Huge huge thanks for the replies so far! =) I'm not looking for exacting quotes, but just general info... for me this can be used for a good starting point, and for those just reading, I'm not looking for anything remotely close to a completed structure ~ merely a completely dried in building with good roof coverage that will "go the distance". I'll look over all links and info in the meantime! =)


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## darkwing (Oct 14, 2012)

I got the prices from www.jimfg.com and they have a residence kit.


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## Warwalk (May 25, 2011)

For me, building in the tropics poses a number of drawbacks (the constant rain and bugs), but it also allows for some opportunities (never freezes, not much temperature fluctuation) so things such as low-e windows or heavy duty insulation aren't necessary. This project is still in the early stages, and my hopes would be that if I can build a primary structure for relatively inexpensively, I'd be able to add / finish in stages. I eventually picture a series of buildings of various sizes, completely enclosing a large square common area (so probably four buildings in total), all linked together by covered porches or walkways. The square common area surrounded by the buildings could become a flower garden or pool area or something... also, since rainwater would be done via catchment, I think the large amount of roof space would be ample enough to never run out. Also, the area is earthquake and termite prone, and thus the reason for steel frame, which I hear has a little more "give". These are some very good ideas I'm getting from everyone! Does anyone have any experience framing with steel? I hear there are some unique qualities working with steel, but nothing that someone with framing experience couldn't adjust to fairly readily (?)


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## Warwalk (May 25, 2011)

Another thing I try to keep in mind is that I, as a potential builder of a single structure, won't benefit from the price breaks a true professional would, and might ultimately have a company do much of the work. I remember when I had my insulation company my discounts on material were so steep that I was able to arrive, install, pay my workers, and have insurance on everything... all for the price that an average joe could arrive at the checkout counter at a lumber store. I often insisted on at least providing a bid to those that swore they'd "do it themselves", just for comparison purposes, and more often than not they'd call me and use my services when they saw the price equity.


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## TNHermit (Jul 14, 2005)

The least expensive house bar none is the story and half regular stick built home. It is becasue everything is amde for it. Nothing special has to be created to make it work. I've built everything from Yurts on the 14's in Colorad to Concrete domes fro university study. If you want it up, wired & plumbed, and finished and get out with the least then the wood frame is the only way.
And quite frankly today I would be looking at a manufactured stick built for anything below 150,000.00


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## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

May I suggest a story and a half house style, if done right it has nearly the square footage of a two story and the cost of a signal story,

our old (semi Victorian style) has about 10 foot walls and the ceiling is about 9 foot, ( I like the taller ground level ceilings), in the process that leaves about a one foot tall wall the roof rafters set on upstairs, 

our ground floor, 1104 square foot, THE UPSTAIRS is about 650 sq feet and that is with a 8 foot ceiling, the "attics" on the sides of the rooms are now closets or storage, so we have nearly 100% of the upper sq footage as usable, in some form. 

but I think one could make good use of footage and dollars in that type of designe.


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## ErinP (Aug 23, 2007)

So far we're on track to have our 24x40 story and a half _finished_ for less than $50,000. If I go with lower-end cabinetry, counters, etc. it should even be less than $40,000. Wood frame. 
Adjust as needed.


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

Is rust an issue with steel framing in the tropics?

I remember when I lived in AL the old houses with tall ceilings were noticeable cooler than modern homes even without insulation.


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## TNHermit (Jul 14, 2005)

ErinP said:


> So far we're on track to have our 24x40 story and a half _finished_ for less than $50,000. If I go with lower-end cabinetry, counters, etc. it should even be less than $40,000. Wood frame.
> Adjust as needed.


I wood  encourage you to put in the best cabinets you can. Time goes by fast. Appliances don't last.You'll need the money.
And for my two cents I would put in flooring,back splash, couters with stuff that had the fewest amount of joints. Lots of things look good new. But gie it five or ten and its a whole different story.


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## TNHermit (Jul 14, 2005)

Considering the life and cost of appliances now days i would encourage you to look into the "Cool Bot" and a walk in fridge if you can fit it. Half the cost of a fridge and 5 times the room


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## farminghandyman (Mar 4, 2005)

if considering a story and half, one can modify the roof to a *gambrel roof* (barn style) and increase the floor space a little more, use the out side edge for closets,


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## TNHermit (Jul 14, 2005)

ErinP said:


> So far we're on track to have our 24x40 story and a half _finished_ for less than $50,000. If I go with lower-end cabinetry, counters, etc. it should even be less than $40,000. Wood frame.
> Adjust as needed.


I wood  encourage you to put in the best cabinets you can. Time goes by fast. Appliances don't last.You'll need the money.
And for my two cents I would put in flooring,back splash, counters with stuff that had the fewest amount of joints. Lots of things look good new. But give it five or ten and its a whole different story.


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## Warwalk (May 25, 2011)

@Fishhead ~ Yes, rust would definitely be an issue in the tropics. There really isn't a best case solution here - Wood can be attacked by termites, steel by rust. However, for me, at least on paper, steel would seem to win as the area is earthquake prone (and I've heard that steel does better with seismic activity) and also the steel can be "spray-painted". This would be my idea for a dried in structure.... paint everything thoroughly on the inside (no sheetrock, no insulation), and only add these latter items later when money allowed. I figure this would allow for some form of a barrier long enough to save money such that an adequate interior sheathing could be applied.


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

I wonder if there isn't some kind of sacrificial anode that could be attached to the steel to protect them from rust. I've heard that is done with storing cars.

Depending on the cost of concrete maybe you could use those styrofoam forms that are filled with concrete. They would solve the rust and termite problem and give some good insulation. I think they are also pretty stable for earthquakes.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

What will you use for a flooring system using 3' concrete piers? I don't see a "CHEAP" way of building this....James


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## Warwalk (May 25, 2011)

@jwal ~ That's a good point, as typically when using piers you'd be doing something like 2 x 12's, and if termites were really an issue the only option for those 2 x 12's would be greenwood... which gets pricey in a hurry. 

This idea of mine really isn't so much about building the absolute cheapest of homes, as there are tons of simply dirt cheap options there (earthbag, earthship, cobb, rammed earth, bamboo...), but more about if one could strip out all the accoutrements associated with standard construction (such as trim, insulation, sheetrock) could a shell be built that was: semi-habitable, sturdy, inexpensive, fairly attractive.

I suppose if I really wanted to cut to it I could build a steel barn, which would basically be about the same type of structure, and add a porch to one side... just for me, it's not the style I'm going for (similar in idea, just don't like the design as much). I think it'd behoove me to actually put pen to paper and create a basic blueprint, then run it by someone local and pay them to do an approximate price workup... then I'd have a much better handle on things.

Also, awesome idea regarding the Coolbot TnHermit. I've thought about doing one of those, as they just seem so versatile. I haven't really heard much in the way of user testimony, but the idea of them is a really good one. Don't know how much they use electricity-wise though...

I'm thinking if steel frame proves to be way too expensive, I might just look at better options for termite abatement (regular spraying around house perimeter, adequate flashing, etc...).


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## Warwalk (May 25, 2011)

... also, all these porches / outdoor living spaces could get expensive as well... it could almost double my roof footprint, and with standing seam installed by a professional that won't come cheap.


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## TNHermit (Jul 14, 2005)

Warwalk said:


> @jwal ~ That's a good point, as typically when using piers you'd be doing something like 2 x 12's, and if termites were really an issue the only option for those 2 x 12's would be greenwood... which gets pricey in a hurry.
> 
> This idea of mine really isn't so much about building the absolute cheapest of homes, as there are tons of simply dirt cheap options there (earthbag, earthship, cobb, rammed earth, bamboo...), but more about if one could strip out all the accoutrements associated with standard construction (such as trim, insulation, sheetrock) could a shell be built that was: semi-habitable, sturdy, inexpensive, fairly attractive.
> 
> ...


Why don't you just go with a pole barn. That is what my daughter did. Lived in it for five years. and when they were ready we built them a nice three story house .

I priced a 40x80 frame and slab for around 9000 a couple months ago.. My labor
I think thiers was 30 x50. Wall down the center, two cross walls = three bedrooms, framed in a couple baths. Rest was left open. they wired insulated, and drywalled themselves. Easy to put a walk-in fridge on one end of a kitchen

And here is an FYI for ya . One of the most expensive things you can do is move in a new place before its done. I figured one time it adds at least 25 % to the cost and it RARELY if EVER gets done.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

You can frame just like a wood frame building with steel studs on concrete floor with steel roofing attached directly to the steel studs, horizonally for siding with no underlayment.

Wood frame with siding (like T-111, open studs inside looks OK. Sheet rock is cheap later. If no insulation, use plastic sheet for a vapor barrier inside studs. I will not use tyvek vapor barrier, there are other house wrap brands though that can go between studs and sheathing/siding. I think the cheapest in the long run is conventional studs on stem wall and concrete slab, just like the garage plans. Open studs and sheathing/siding, can be painted or stained.


My son used wood studs, on stem wall foundation, tongue and groove plywood floor over 2"x8"s, real T-111 ungrooved siding and sanded plywood for his ceiling, all stained. Looks good and the siding can be used as underlayment later if he wants to upgrade. He did house wrap, insulate and sheetrock....James


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## texican (Oct 4, 2003)

IF you can do all the work yourself, you should be able to do a frame house (wooden, off the ground) for around $10/foot. I built my SO a 12x20 kennel, up to code, with electric, drywall, insulation, windows, etc., all for 2 grand. Later she wanted vinyl flooring (160$, a/c $200) I could plumb it for less than a hundred, add a toilet and sink (sinks are available at building reclaimers... got a 600 cast iron sink for $20) for around a hundred.

Key is, doing it all yourself. I used drywall because we were in a HURRY. Had a barn full of 1x12 planks, but she was worried it wouldn't be 'airtight'... 

My biggest expense in building is foundation and roofing. Cement foundations require extra hands or hiring it out, around $5/foot, $1 for wood. Metal roofing works out to around $1/foot, including framing material, plywood deck, and metal.

If you can scrounge, you'll drop your costs even further...


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## Jolly (Jan 8, 2004)

Been awhile since I built a house or helped build one, but the cheapest one I was ever involved in, was built down the road from me.

The young man who built it was a hustler and he came from a family of carpenters. House was a one and a half story. Things done to get by cheaper, yet still have a nice home:

1. He made a deal with his neighbor, trading working on his neighbor's home, for logs.
2. He had all of his bigger framing lumber and all of his shiplap siding sawed.
3. He scrounged around and bought all of his 2x4 studs from a salvage yard for $0.85/stud.
4. House was built off the ground, on piers. He did all the floor joist framing.
5. Windows were contractor grade, insulated, aluminum frame.
6. He built his own cabinets. The boxes are oak plywood, but all the facings are solid oak board. He did order the doors - they are solid oak, floating panel. His cabinets are beautiful.

To be continued...


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## Jolly (Jan 8, 2004)

7. Countertops are formica - they're black, kind of a granite-look and since they are black, seams are not noticeable.
8. Walls are sheetrock.
9. I don't think there is a light fixture in the house, that was not bought on sale or from the clearance bin.
10. He traded out work with an electrician, and that's how his house was wired for the cost of the materials.
11. Initial flooring was rolled vinyl, in-stock, contractor grade.
12. He left his "upstairs" unfinished, until several years later when his second boy was born. Now, it contains a family game room and a small office.


I guess a lot of what I could say about this guy's house was that he did most of the work himself, he planned it out well, he accumulated materials as he could as cheaply as he could over a period of a couple of years, he traded labor for labor and he always used serviceable levels of materials (not going cheap just because it was cheap) that would last awhile.


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