# Coccidia Prevention



## Frosted Mini's (Nov 29, 2012)

I usually bottle feed and give my kids coccidiosis prevention daily in their milk (Deccox-M). I have some right now that I am dam-raising though, and using Corid. I realize it is 5 days in a row, every 3 weeks. So, would the every three weeks be from the beginning or ending of a treatment? For example, if I give the kids Corid on the 1st-5th of a month, then would their next treatment dose be the 21st-25th, or the 26th-30th? Does it matter?


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

Doesn't matter. When I approximate when they need coccidia prevention start at 3 weeks of age or so in my calendar app on my phone/computer, and every 3 weeks from there I put a reminder in my calendar. so, the START dates are 3 weeks apart (at least on paper). Just because it's easier for me because generally I'm only home on weekends so the treatments are always on weekends for me, generally speaking, unless I wrangle dad into giving some treatment doses. 

Wether I actually get around to it on those specific days in the calendar....

If you start them on prevention in their lives on time and have good management/hygiene, I doubt it matters much a 5 day difference either way.


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## BackfourtyMI. (Sep 3, 2007)

I use Di-Methox for the 5 day prevention & I start the next doses 21 days from the last 5 day dose.
Like mygoat said a day or so off probably won't make much of a difference as long as it's close either way.


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## Doug Hodges (Jul 22, 2013)

Just get the toltrazuril. It's so much easier. Dose one day. Dose 3 weeks later. That 5 day in a row stuff is to hard to remember. I have my phone set for every 3 weeks. Takes about 15 minutes for 15 kids. 


http://www.spottednubian.com/index.html
https://www.facebook.com/doug.hodges.750


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## Bubbas Boys (Apr 11, 2013)

We have never treated for this. This is only our 2nd year kidding here at our place. We are trying to get more organized than last year, is this needed/recommended for all new kids? Besides CD&T and worming, is there other shots we should be ready with. Our first should kid in about a month from now. Thanks!


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## Alice In TX/MO (May 10, 2002)

Yes, it is recommended to prevent gut damage that can stunt kids.


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## Frosted Mini's (Nov 29, 2012)

Doug Hodges said:


> Just get the toltrazuril. It's so much easier. Dose one day. Dose 3 weeks later. That 5 day in a row stuff is to hard to remember. I have my phone set for every 3 weeks. Takes about 15 minutes for 15 kids.
> 
> 
> http://www.spottednubian.com/index.html
> https://www.facebook.com/doug.hodges.750


I will never trust that stuff ever again after almost killing my expensive doeling due to thinking she had coccidia covered and therefore not treating it immediately. I think I must have been one of the unlucky ones that got a less concentrated bottle. I may use it again once these kids are older or maybe for their last dose or something, but not gonna trust it with small babies. I need to be sure what I use is going to work!


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## Jupiter (Dec 30, 2012)

At what age do you stop the treatment?


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## Josie (Mar 30, 2012)

Frosted Mini's said:


> I will never trust that stuff ever again after almost killing my expensive doeling due to thinking she had coccidia covered and therefore not treating it immediately. I think I must have been one of the unlucky ones that got a less concentrated bottle. I may use it again once these kids are older or maybe for their last dose or something, but not gonna trust it with small babies. I need to be sure what I use is going to work!



I just had a similar issue...but with the Decox-M. Was started on day 1 and given daily in bottle as directed...expensive kid stopped eating...didn't think coccidiosis...initially no diarrhea...was suggested I do a round of Dimethox. Doeling improved by second day and has since returned to normal. Now I have a bag of med that I do not trust :/ It is scary when something that should be working does not.


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## copperpennykids (Sep 6, 2004)

Bubbas Boys said:


> We have never treated for this. This is only our 2nd year kidding here at our place. We are trying to get more organized than last year, is this needed/recommended for all new kids? Besides CD&T and worming, is there other shots we should be ready with. Our first should kid in about a month from now. Thanks!


Generally you can "get away with not treating/preventing" for a few years...then the cocci build up in the soil. The more goats that you raise, the sooner you will have to do cocci prevention. Also, the warmer and wetter you are, the sooner you will need to begin.

Dam raised kids are at greater risk than bottle raised kids, due to the number of oocysts that the mature does shed. The mature does are immune - the kids are not.

In addition to preventing/treating (we like both baycox and Di-methox 40%) you want to be smart and manage your kids well. Do NOT simply rotate your kids from one pen to the next. So many folks have a "baby pen", generally closest to the house, and then when those kids are older they move to a new pen (great so far) but then they put the new kids into the pen that has been repeatedly pooped in...and by the third round the last batch of kids is living in cocci heaven. Try to have a separate pen for babies - leave one pen fallow (like a pasture) in addition to the cocci prevention.

Last, but really not least, it would be best 5 days after the baycox or the last day of the Di-methox, to give B-complex orally, to replace the thiamine that the treatment is killing....helps avoid the goat polio problems.


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## Frosted Mini's (Nov 29, 2012)

I was thinking about giving the kids some kefir (high in b vitamins) at the end of their coccidia treatments, but i haven't received my grains yet!


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## Doug Hodges (Jul 22, 2013)

Frosted Mini's said:


> I will never trust that stuff ever again after almost killing my expensive doeling due to thinking she had coccidia covered and therefore not treating it immediately. I think I must have been one of the unlucky ones that got a less concentrated bottle. I may use it again once these kids are older or maybe for their last dose or something, but not gonna trust it with small babies. I need to be sure what I use is going to work!



Mygoat says be sure and shake the bottle repeatedly while dosing. It's been a miracle cure for me. I brought in several sick baby goats at first and saved over half of them with it. Most were better by day 2. Sorry For your troubles. I won't use anything else. I'm sold on it. I was also horrible at prevention. (Much better and timely now) I would have them get scours and do fecals and show coccidia. I would treat with this as a cure and they would be better almost immediately. Now I start dosing at 2 to 3 weeks and dose 4 times at approximately 3 week intervals. (Sometimes a couple days sooner if I have new ones that need treatment. I try to keep everyone together and on the same schedule) 


http://www.spottednubian.com/index.html
https://www.facebook.com/doug.hodges.750


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## Frosted Mini's (Nov 29, 2012)

Doug Hodges said:


> Mygoat says be sure and shake the bottle repeatedly while dosing. It's been a miracle cure for me. I brought in several sick baby goats at first and saved over half of them with it. Most were better by day 2. Sorry For your troubles. I won't use anything else. I'm sold on it. I was also horrible at prevention. (Much better and timely now) I would have them get scours and do fecals and show coccidia. I would treat with this as a cure and they would be better almost immediately. Now I start dosing at 2 to 3 weeks and dose 4 times at approximately 3 week intervals. (Sometimes a couple days sooner if I have new ones that need treatment. I try to keep everyone together and on the same schedule)
> 
> 
> http://www.spottednubian.com/index.html
> https://www.facebook.com/doug.hodges.750


I'm glad it is working for you, but these varied results (some people having excellent results and some having terrible) makes me trust it even less. There was also a letter posted to Horseprerace where this stuff is sold where the FDA had tested a product (different product, not the toltrazuril) and they had differing concentrations from bottle to bottle. So I probably got a less concentrated bottle. I think probably Baycox brand is good, but this is a compounded version. In my case, I really doubt it was a mixing problem as she was the only goat I dosed with it.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

I strongly believe that this non-approved Baycox is extremely variable. Different batches likely work better or worse. Another reason why doing fecals is so absolutely important! 

As to when to stop treating, I do until they are 'well grown'.  I pull and raise on the bottle because I think it's easiest plus we hate untame kids here (and we don't have time to tame dam raised kids). All of these drugs can be put into the bottles of bottle kids, so that is how I do it, as there is nothing worse than trying to get high volumes of nasty flavored things via drench into animals, especially squidgy little kids that like to spit it into the dirt.  

The problem with drugs like Dimethox is that it tastes horrible. When the dose is small for young animals, they drink the milk and drug fine when mixed together. When they are older and the dose is higher, they will generally refuse to drink the milk because it tastes so bad. Wastes milk and drug. 

Drugs like CalfPro, Deccox-M etc are dosed daily in the milk. I haven't heard that these cause off flavored milk problems. 

Baycox is given one day, can be mixed in the milk. FDA Restricted, do NOT use in meat kids. I suggest only using on dairy replacements, but technically it's not legal to use in ANY animal in the US.

Corid is used mostly as a prevention, NOT an effective treatment really. This is the only one that should reduce thiamine, but when dosed correctly should not cause polio in goats. 

Here's a great resource for dosages: http://www.dairygoatinfo.com/f28/coccidia-different-cocci-meds-doses-21499/

The ones not listed are the calf pro/deccox M and Toltrazuril. The only one I know is the toltrazuril at 1cc per 5lbs. SHAKE WELL. 

I start my kids on a lamb grower with lasacosid or rumensin or deccox at 2 weeks old. We free feed that with alfalfa pellets (2 parts grain 1 part alf), hay, minerals/salt. This controls coccidia as a feed through, but young animals cannot take enough in to be effective. Generally speaking, I stop coccidia treatment prevention around 50-60lbs, do fecals, and rely on the feed to prevent coccidia. In dam raised herds you can feed Rumensin medicated feed to the ADULTS to lower the number in the environment 6 weeks pre-kidding and through lactation/weaning.


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## Frosted Mini's (Nov 29, 2012)

Deccox M is decoquinate, mentioned briefly at the bottom of that link. I use 1 tsp per kid. It does not have an off-flavor and actually it has a lot of lactose in according to the label so that probably helps the taste, too.

Rumensin can be used in the adults to decrease coccidia in environment, but it does have a short milk withdrawal time, I think like 24 hours or so, so you wouldn't use it for dairy goats, would work fine for meat goats though.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

Frosted Mini's said:


> Deccox M is decoquinate, mentioned briefly at the bottom of that link. I use 1 tsp per kid. It does not have an off-flavor and actually it has a lot of lactose in according to the label so that probably helps the taste, too.
> 
> Rumensin can be used in the adults to decrease coccidia in environment, but it does have a short milk withdrawal time, I think like 24 hours or so, so you wouldn't use it for dairy goats, would work fine for meat goats though.


Rumensin is approved for use in lactating dairy cattle - no withdrawal for milk. It increases milk components in the milk through slightly altered rumen function. Essentially makes more valuable milk by increasing milk fat I believe.  It is not approved for lactating dairy goats I believe because like many things, it's not been evaluated for dairy goats. When I used it, I fed it to my dairies until the day they kidded, then we switched them off of it. We did raise the boer kids in with the dairies and their boer mommas all in the same pen, so I figured it might help a bit for the kids. 

http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/animaldrugsatfda/details.cfm?dn=095-735


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## Frosted Mini's (Nov 29, 2012)

http://www.georgiagoat.com/articles/Goatmeds_new.pdf This says 96 hrs milk withdrawal, but also says Do Not Use...so I dunno what to believe. LOL. It's probably just fine.


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

I have a herd of 8 goats on a five acre pasture. They free range all day. Evening I give them limited hay and intermittently grains. 
Since it was raining a lot I offered free choice hay in their shed for few days. They never left the shed for days. now I lost my beautiful buck to coccidiosis.... 
I treated rest of the herd with corid for 5 days.

It is two weeks since and they are doing fine. However I replaced the hay feeder with a different design. And also raking the beads off the shed every other day. 

Hard lesson. I failed to protect him. He was a gentle gaint.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

May I ask how you know coccidia was the cause of death for a mature buck?


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## JoannaCW (Nov 29, 2008)

We've been raising goats for 13 years now , have never given kids a coccidiostat and haven't lost kids to cocci or even had their growth slowed. Did have one mature doe with cocci trouble (treated with Corid) but she had a lot of other health problems going down--our vet thought she had some kind of basic immune trouble and eventually convinced us that she wasn't worth treating.


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## coso (Feb 24, 2004)

A lot of the folks up north don't have the coccidia problems of their southern neighbors. Our ground doesn't stay frozen half the year which contributes immensely to the problem. People in desert and sandy areas don't have much trouble with cocci either.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

How do your kids grow without the coccidistat/coccidia prevention? What breeds? 

A lot of it has to do with pasture management and cleanliness, too. Those who do a better job will have a lot fewer problems. I'll own up and say that pasture management is something we could personally definitely improve upon.


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## dozedotz (Dec 12, 2012)

We have not had to treat for cocci or worms and our doe kids are usually born in February and are at or above 100 pounds by the following August...standard Nubians. The usual reasons: small herd, very dry, rocky soil with no standing water, we clean every single day in the paddock areas and barn and once a week my husband blows with the a professional sized leaf blower the near pasture areas and then sweeps up the piles. Kids are raised on clean ground with no adults present...clean means that the ground has not had a goat on it for from late August until the following spring. Kid house and ground is cleaned after the last kid leaves for other places or joins the herd. We also lime the area. HOWEVER, this year will be our first year with dam raising since we raised Kinders. I have purchased some cocci stuff and plan on treating just to be safe with this dam raised (hopefully!!) group of kids...who are due today but not cooperating!


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## JoannaCW (Nov 29, 2008)

We've been selling our kids (Alpine/Boer x) at 5 weeks or so; at that point they're eating plenty of solids and chewing their cuds. I haven't kept good weight records lately since we haven't been selling kids for meat, but the last good records on that tally with my recollection of last year's kids--ranging at 5 weeks from 25 to 32 lbs. They nurse during the day and are separated at night. We also only have 2 milking does at any given time, and three reasonably large pasture sections in rotation, so that may make cocci easier.


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

mygoat said:


> May I ask how you know coccidia was the cause of death for a mature buck?


I am amateur. I did not do any lag tests. He had bad diarrhea. But he kept having the hay. I gave him albon and electrolytes. He also became anemic. Neighbors who raise goats told me it had to be coccidiosis.


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## SJSFarm (Jun 13, 2012)

Does anyone use sulmet? 

When I was raising the babies for a friend that is what she wanted me to use, but everywhere I tried was sold out- even on line. 

I found it at a feed store a few months ago so I got some for this years kids. Last year I used corid.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

Sulmet is not really a great drug for coccidia. Sulfadimethoxine is a similar drug and very effective. 

Coccidiosis CAN affect adults, but it's extremely rare and related to exposure to new coccidia strains - say, during shipment, high stress etc. Most adult animals can fight off just about any coccidia once their immune system matures around 6+ months old. That is not to say they don't have coccidia at all - just that their load does not affect them. The adults will continue to shed coccidia into the environment where the offspring will pick it up in the pasture and become clinically ill. 

If selling kids at 5 weeks, a relatively low number of adult animals on rotational pastures, I'm not surprised you're not seeing coccidiosis problems and don't need to treat. I can't wait to improve my pastures a bit. Especially kid pens.


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

I used sulmet because i couldn't find sulfadimethoxine anywhere here. I was very sick myself when this all happened, I didn't do justice... 

Ours is a five acre pasture. We only have 8 goats and few chicken. They free range and we don't rotate. But for days due to rain they stayed in their lean barn and I fed them hay. Until last spring I had just a doe and a buck. 

Couple of them had shown some scouring along with the buck. After I lost him I treated the rest of goats using corid on the five day course/dosage. 

Now I am building better feeders so that they never have to eat anything from the ground. And I am cleaning the floor in lean barn every other day.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

I strongly recommend doing a fecal and seeing if there are any worms present. What do you use to deworm and when did you last do it? How is their body condition? Sulmet or sulfadimethoxine will NOT deworm.


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

@mygoat, Sorry I did not mention. I actually did de-worm the next day I saw the diarrhea. And the third day I started Sulmet. He is long gone now 

I will find out where here they do fecel test and how much it costs. So that I can be prepared if a need arises next time.

Right now rest of goats including the 6 weeks old doelings are doing great. One doe will kid probably in a week or so.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

What did you deworm with? Many types of dewormers and dosages are outdated and ineffective. Safeguard for example, will not be effective for much else than tapeworm which is generally nonpathogenic in adult goats (but looks gross and can cause pathology in young animals ). Even when using for tapeworms, you have to dose 3-5x the label dose for 3 days for it to be effective.

http://www.dairygoatinfo.com/f28/worming-worms-wormers-21389/

A cheap place for fecals - 5.00/sample, pretty quick turn around. I get results the night the samples arrive at the lab usually, and I ship in priority flat rate boxes for around 5.00 per shipment. http://midamericaagresearch.net/

May want veterinary help interpreting the results because in the 'off season' worms may be shedding very few eggs, and there is a pre patent period where you may not be seeing eggs. (non-breeding period between infection with immature worms and reproducing adult worms in the host)


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

I generally use the herbal de-wormer. It is a ten day course. 









But this time I gave mormox, a one shot dosage. 









Thanks for all the details.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

Morantel is not very effective.

Herbal wormers are questionable. Some people like them. I only believe they work as a preventative, only if used with a ton of diligence - and ONLY should be relied upon with follow up fecal tests. Personally, I do not use herbals for their lack of research supporting their efficacy (or safety) for more than prevention.


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

Last night I found two does starting diarrhea. I collected fecel sample and sent to midamericaagresearch today morning in priority mail. It will reach them on Friday morning so mostly I will get some results Friday/Saturday.

Now what precautionary treatment shall I offer the herd right away?
They are all feeding hay well. They are active and moving around.


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

The lab results came last night. There are stomach worms and coccidiosis in the fecel. I am going to give ivermectin and valbazen today. 
It is three weeks since I gave corid to the herd. Will repeat corid one more course...


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## HorsesNGoats (Feb 5, 2015)

So what is the best way to prevent Coccidia in dam raised kids? (Northern area, pasture/barn if that helps)


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## LFRJ (Dec 1, 2006)

HorsesNGoats said:


> So what is the best way to prevent Coccidia in dam raised kids? (Northern area, pasture/barn if that helps)


Ditto that?! In a different thread, I've talked about a single buckling (8 mos) that somewhat mysteriously and suddenly went down. Worms or cocci would be my guess (or complications - pneumonia - there of). So ways to treat/prevent cocci in areas where it's hard to rid is of great interest to me.


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## goat girl or (Oct 13, 2007)

What I have found to work really well for cocci prevention for my area which is wet, is feeding the kids yogurt. For this last year I gave the kids 3cc of yogurt once a day, If you are bottle feeding just mix it in the bottle. This of course needs to be good yogurt that you have made or the only good commercial yogurt I know of is Nancy's yogurt.

Ggg SKM
Mac's Rainbow Nigerians


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

I let my does go natural about everything. My problem is I am low on infrastructure. I need to build up. It was fine when I had 4 goats. Now I have 10. When it rains they all stay in the lean barn. That is where the issue starts......


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## Frosted Mini's (Nov 29, 2012)

There is nothing natural about keeping goats locked in pens and pastures and barns. They would never stay in one place for very long in the wild. Which is how they "naturally" prevent themselves from getting parasites. That and eating "up" rather than down low like in a pasture situation. It's just how most people have to raise their animals as almost nobody has tons of acres to just let their animals run free.

Goat girl, Gianaclis Caldwell uses yogurt also, with good success. She actually feeds her kids 100% yogurt that she makes for them, rather than milk!

For mine, I am using Corid this year for the dam-raised kids. It's a pain in the butt, especially as they grow bigger and need more liquid. I generally give a touch extra, because I know they are gonna spit some of it out. I jam the syringe as far back as I can to try and prevent that from happening too much. I also have deccox pellets and the oldest kids are starting to eat those when I separate the kids for milking. These are some of the options for dam-raised kids:

Every 3 weeks, sulfadimethox for 5 days.
Every 3 weeks, corid for 5 days. Some places have resistance to this.
Every 3 weeks, toltrazuril once. Some people have success, some don't.
Sulmet, and I don't know what the dosage or frequency is.
Daily feeding of an ionophore like deccox (decoquinate), rumensin, etc. These are what are usually in the medicated kid/lamb/calf feeds, but they have to eat enough of it to be effective, so generally won't do any good until the kids are older and eating solids well. For bottle-babies, I use deccox-M, a powder that goes in the milk. I am able to get pellets from a local mill that are concentrated deccox pellets, so I can add to whatever grain mix I want.


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

I couldn't find sulfadimethoxine 12.5 solution. But found soluable powder packet 107g (3.77 oz).
After searching how to make 12.5% solution from this I found in a thread to mix this packet in 3 cups of water by @Minelson

What is the measurement of a cup? 8 fl oz? 

Thanks in advance


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

This is how I've used the powder in the past: 

http://www.dairygoatinfo.com/f28/coccidia-different-cocci-meds-doses-21499/


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## Donna1982 (Jun 14, 2011)

I loooooove toltrazuril but unforatnly I didnt have the extra cash to pick it up when it was cheaper. Now it being almost 70 bucks a bottle I cannot afford it right now. So we will be using dimethox this year.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

A lot of legal issues with using compounding pharmacies right now anyways...  Toltrazuril is not approved for use in food producing animals in the US, and compounding pharmacies are under fire for producing compounds that are not necessarily the solution percentage/concentration that the label states - and of drugs that are not approved for use, proven efficacious, or proven safe. 

That being said, most of the other drugs used are not necessarily approved for use the manner we use them. It's our responsibility to use them well and without allowing these drugs to enter the food chain. What we think is best may not actually be so.


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

I finally found the Sulfadimethoxine 12.5% solution in a feed store. And i found two different dosage recommenation online.

http://www.dairygoatinfo.com/f28/coccidia-different-cocci-meds-doses-21499/
12.5% Albon S.R. [Sulfadimethoxine] and Di-Methox 12.5%[Sulfadimethoxine] GIVEN ORALLY are the exact same drug
The dose is 3.2cc per 5 lbs
Theresa

http://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/coccidiosis06.html
This writer prefers to use the DiMethox 12.5% solution; it is a generic of Albon and much less expensive. Although Di-Methox 12.5% comes in both liquid and powder, the liquid is easier to dose properly. To treat a herd that is already infected with coccidia, administer three to five cc's of undiluted liquid Di-Methox 12.5% orally to each kid daily for five consecutive days. For adults, dose at eight to ten cc's in the same manner.

The amounts are vastly different. Is the difference between dairy and meat goats?
Am I misreading?

Thanks in advance


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

The first dose is considering the kid dose and calculated as a mg/kg dose I believe (do the math to make sure - dose I've found should be 25mg/kg for 5 days for TREATMENT - 25mg/kg day 1, 12.5mg/kg for days 2-5 for prevention) I'd use that for adults too SO LONG AS THE MG PER KG DOSE FOR ADULTS IS THE SAME AS FOR KIDS. I don't know this off the top of my head because we RARELY treat adults for coccidiosis as it is not generally a clinical disease associated with adults. It's still a 5 day in a row treatment. Clean environment is essential for success or they'll just pick it right back up again. 

Here's a nifty ppt I found from Purdue: http://www.ansc.purdue.edu/SP/MG/Documents/SLIDES/Coccidiosis.pdf

Personally, I wouldn't use the direct dose method in adults unless absolutely necessary, I would add a medicated feed (rumensin - note this is toxic for horses so if you have equines it's a consideration for use) and/or dose in the water for adults. If there are clinically affected ones, those I would consider direct dosing - the rest of the herd I would do a herd treatment via water or feed. Adults should not be that negatively affected by coccidia. Generally the only reason we 'treat' adults (by way of medicated feed) is to reduce the number shed into the environment where their kids will pick it up. I'd cull adult animals if they have problems with coccidia. No way I'm chasing down adults to treat for 5 days in a row with large amounts of nasty tasting liquid - drenching large amounts of fluid increases risk of aspiration as well as a lot wasted as it hits the dirt. Babies I would direct dose with a treatment dose but most of mine I bottle raise so it's easy to stick in a bottle - no fight. Dam raised kids I would do prevention doses direct drench in young animals, then rely on creep feeding older kids a medicated feed. Environment and moving pens is greatly helpful in preventing coccidia problems especially post weaning. Just my .02.


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## boerboy (Oct 7, 2012)

That is very helpful, mygoat. Thanks a bunch.


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## HorsesNGoats (Feb 5, 2015)

What can I put down to kill any worms or anything when I move the goats?


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

There isn't anything that I'm aware of. 

The best bet is letting the ground set between grazing bouts. I think ideally it's like 45 days between heavy grazing. Generally with big herds you graze an area fairly heavily for no more than a week (the less the better), then don't revisit that spot again for 45 days or so. A small herd that is not a big burden on a growthy or big pasture could 'graze up' which is more ideal and could potentially stay on a pasture longer. Depends on your pasture quality/type, location, growing season (moist vs dry) etc.


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## HorsesNGoats (Feb 5, 2015)

mygoat said:


> There isn't anything that I'm aware of.
> 
> The best bet is letting the ground set between grazing bouts. I think ideally it's like 45 days between heavy grazing. Generally with big herds you graze an area fairly heavily for no more than a week (the less the better), then don't revisit that spot again for 45 days or so. A small herd that is not a big burden on a growthy or big pasture could 'graze up' which is more ideal and could potentially stay on a pasture longer. Depends on your pasture quality/type, location, growing season (moist vs dry) etc.


Tends to be moist. Midwest. Generally march- October or November. We put them out on the big pasture (about 35 acres), but due to coyotes we have to


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