# Incubator experts HELP PLEASE.



## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

I tried to make an incubator,looks good[to me] It don't work worth a crap.1st try I put 128 eggs in it and got 6 chicks[all died by the 3rd day]It holds temp good,has 2 fans[1 in top,1 in bottom] and 2 water pans[both in bottom].2nd attempt was 48 eggs,2 perfect chicks,but had about 20-25 pip the egg then died.Other eggs had chicks but never pipped.I'm about ready to torch it and start over.Pics below.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

Maybe I can't see them, but do you have any vent holes for them to get air?


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

No.There's a crack in the door on top and bottom that blows a feather if you hold it in front of it.How many and what size does it need.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

I am not an 'expert' per say, tho I have made a few over the years that hatched many chicks.
When I made all of mine, I drilled holes on the bottom in the front and some on the back up top so that provided air flow. 

I would have to look to see the size holes and measure them for you. 
I have not taken them out yet this year so in storage. 
Let me get back to you on that.


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## Guest (May 10, 2014)

How are you turning the eggs?


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

Sorry for the delay.
I can't get to them to measure, so will describe it best I can.

On some, I made 4 holes on the lower front and 4 holes on the upper back. All holes about the width of aquarium air lines, but not tight.

On others, I made 4 again on the lower and 4 holes on top. Same size as above for the lower. 
The top holes were a bit larger as I used those for a water line, and a night light type holder.... as well as air flow. So basically it was 3 holes.

I have closed off 1 top hole, if I couldn't keep up the humidity. Winter heating causing drier air in here. 
As I said, on my top holes, I used one hole to add water inside via a aquarium line and syringe (w/o needle) so didn't have to open bator.

Either way it gave good air flow for the chicks.

It's easier to close an extra hole, then drill another, when the bator is loaded. 

Hope that helps a little and good luck.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

I put 4 5/16 size holes in the bottom front.Put 3 the same size in the top back.Going to try 3 dozen more and see what happens.


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## Guest (May 10, 2014)

alan anderson said:


> I put 4 5/16 size holes in the bottom front.Put 3 the same size in the top back.Going to try 3 dozen more and see what happens.


 How do you turn the eggs? And how often?


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

Alan

I hope that helps. Just make sure the air can flow by those holes with nothing in the way to stop it. I noticed that the unit appears to be backed against a wall.

You hadn't answered ladycat's question. So I looked at the pixs again. 

I didn't see an auto turner, tho I see the 2 egg trays appear to be on an angle. Unless you are turning that many by hand at least 3 times a day?

Help us out so we can better help you.


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## kycountry (Jan 26, 2012)

I have a few questions.

Where are your eggs comming from, how fresh, and how is fertility on them.

What temp are you running it at? Humidity?

How often are the eggs turned and to what degree?

When you candle the eggs, what stage to most quit?


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## Guest (May 11, 2014)

CountryCabin said:


> I didn't see an auto turner, tho I see the 2 egg trays appear to be on an angle.


 Yes they seem to be on an angle, but looking at the pics, they don't look like they are at enough of an angle.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

ladycat said:


> Yes they seem to be on an angle, but looking at the pics, they don't look like they are at enough of an angle.


Ladycat

That's why I kinda thought he was turning by hand and just preferred that angle..?
Hard to know until we get more info..
I hope he comes back so we can go over it all before he starts another set.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Eggs are turned by using the wood block and can under the stick holding the trays apart.Look in the lower left front corner.Eggs are turned every 6 hours,like clock work.
Eggs come from my yard,gathered every day.Eggs are from gamefowl and layer hens.I'm hatching 12 of 12 under hens.Temp is set on 99.5,65% humidity.Eggs are candled about 3 days before hatching.The layer eggs are from Wheaton Marans and nearly to dark to candle.Game eggs are from fowl I've raised for 50 years,they don't come any gamer or better than I have.I use a 28 volt **** hunting light to candle them.
Don't worry about another setting.I'll keep loading the incubator until they quit laying like always.


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## kycountry (Jan 26, 2012)

I see 3 things that could be wrong. I may be totally off the wall wrong too. Wouldn't be the first time.. lol...

I hatch about 2000 a year, and one of my biggest problems I had was with too fresh of an egg. They retain too much moisture when set and the chicks drown in the eggs. I either lower the humidity the first week on them, or leave them in the house for about 3 days. I check the air sacs on day 7 and adjust the humidity to the size of the air sac.

The second problem I see, which I may be wrong on is your Turner won't go far enough to roll the eggs to the other side. If it were mine, I'd feel a lot better if the egg racks would roll farther to the right above and beyond level.

The third thing is the air vents, I like 3 one inch holes in the back. I use flat stock aluminum with a screw in one end so I can adjust the airflow due to outside temps and humidity. The later in the incubation cycle, the more air they need. 

I couldn't help but notice (and may be wrong again) that your incubator appears to be next to a bathtub or in a laundry room. Warm showers and other water sources will increase the humidity in the room, meaning a wet hatch with drowned chicks in the egg shells. Vibration from a washer running the spin cycle setting close to the incubator on a wood floor can disrupt the development of the embryos.

Again, I may be totally wrong, but from my experience, all of the above can and will affect the hatch rate.

Btw, keep'em game!! Too many breeders now days going to cold blooded junk for the Mexican or Philippine styles of shows.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Thanks for taking the time to point things out.Looks like I need a new design.Here's a pic or 2 of these Bama bred birds.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

Lovely birds Alan. Thanks for sharing 

Don't feel bad about your design. I'd say it showed promise.... 
A bit of tinkering with it may prove to be just what it needs instead of starting all over again...? 
If we never tried, we would never know if something will work or not. 

I once ran out of bator room, after much thought... I'd try using a dehydrator. lol
I needed the extra chicks for a small order and thought..what the heck, what have I got to loose? 
If it didn't work, I was still back at square one and by that time, one of the bators would be available.
It worked and I had 100% hatch....I was so surprised.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

kycountry said:


> I like 3 one inch holes in the back. I use flat stock aluminum with a screw in one end so I can adjust the airflow due to outside temps and humidity. The later in the incubation cycle, the more air they need.


I wonder if my smaller holes work due to always having a fan working in the room with bators, moving more air about?

I just thought of it that now, about it always being on cause of wood heating.
Curious, what's your take on that?


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## Guest (May 11, 2014)

CountryCabin said:


> Lovely birds Alan. Thanks for sharing
> 
> I once ran out of bator room, after much thought... I'd try using a dehydrator. lol
> I needed the extra chicks for a small order and thought..what the heck, what have I got to loose?
> ...


 Oh my gosh, I've got a dehydrator and not enough incubator room. 

Did you have to put ideas in my head?? :catfight:


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

ladycat said:


> Oh my gosh, I've got a dehydrator and not enough incubator room.
> 
> Did you have to put ideas in my head?? :catfight:


Sorry....I think. lol
Is it a square dehy.? 
Is there space for a water dish below??
Oh never mind lolol


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## mrs whodunit (Feb 3, 2012)

ladycat said:


> Oh my gosh, I've got a dehydrator and not enough incubator room.
> 
> Did you have to put ideas in my head?? :catfight:


What kind of a dehydrator????


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## kycountry (Jan 26, 2012)

CountryCabin said:


> I wonder if my smaller holes work due to always having a fan working in the room with bators, moving more air about?
> 
> I just thought of it that now, about it always being on cause of wood heating.
> Curious, what's your take on that?


One thing the fan does is help control the temperature swings wood heat can have. 

And the only time I have the vents fully opened is if it gets hot and humid. Then I open them all the way up and take my water pan out until the last three days. The more the outside temp rises, the more air flow you need. Oxygen is more condensed in cooler air, so the less air flow you need. Most people have their incubator in the house where it is in an air conditioned space, which is cooler air and less humidity so the smaller air vents is enough.

Another point to make is the air movement inside the incubator, the more you have, the more eggs will dry down at the same humidity. The rapid air flow over the eggs will evaporate more water from the shells. But if the air movement is fast over the water pans, the higher the humidity inside the incubator.

I have also noticed incubators need more ventilation when the barometric pressure is falling than when it's rising. When the pressure is falling, it creates a high pressure inside the incubator which causes less draw of oxygen into the vents. They also use more water due to the loss of humidity escaping due to lower pressure on the outside of the incubator.

With the fan moving air in the room, it could be creating a higher pressure near the incubator, keeping the air cooler near the incubator, or it could be that the vent holes are big enough for the climate the incubator is running in.


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## kycountry (Jan 26, 2012)

Allen, if I were u, I wouldn't start over!!

There is a very few changes I would make.

The first one would be to cut the top of your Turner board shorter if it is possible for the egg racks to rotate more to the right by doing so.

Then find me a fairly large piece of string (say 1/2 inch) and drill that size hole into the Turner board next to the top. And a 3/4 inch hole in the top of the incubator directly above the Turner board. Make a 1/2 inch wide slot from one side of the hole in the top. Run he string through the hole in the top and tie it to the Turner board by running it through the hole and tying a knot in it.

If you do this, you can tie 3 knots in the rope for positions to keep the eggs at.to turn the eggs, you could pull the rope up through the hole and lock it by sliding the rope into the slot and letting the knot set on top of the incubator to keep it in place..

By not opening the door 3 times a day, the temp would be more stable with less humidity loss too..

The rope thing is hard to explain... lol hope you can make out what I mean


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## Bettacreek (May 19, 2012)

Turning is not the issue here. My bet is that they aren't losing enough moisture during incubation, then they pip into goop and drown. When I moved my bator into my bedroom, I was diligently checking humidity and I had an entire year of failure. Once I gave up and forgot to add water, I got great hatches. Moral, now my incubator sees water when I wash and disinfect it. It does not get ANY humidity or water if there are eggs in it. Incubation humidity is around 16% and hatching humidity is whatever the moisture from the eggs bumps it up to as they hatch.


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## Bettacreek (May 19, 2012)

Oh, reason I say it's not due to lack of turning is because I quit turning mine and they hatch just fine. Turning isn't important like people think it is.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

Bettacreek said:


> Oh, reason I say it's not due to lack of turning is because I quit turning mine and they hatch just fine. Turning isn't important like people think it is.


LOL, thats like "the big end has to be up" ----I use ALOT of hatching hens-----I have Never seen them stand the egg on its small end------LOL-----They usually hatch 100% of the fertile eggs too.

My Wifes Son built a incubator and his eggs layed down---they were turned by rolling sideways. He hatched 100% of his first setting.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

Alan Anderson------my feelings are-------------the humidity was way off. Do you use a Humidity monitor?


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## bonnie in indiana (May 10, 2002)

From what I see-------You are writing on the eggs with some kind of marker.
I have found that pen, sharpies, magic markers---POISON THE EGGS.

Never write on the eggs with anything other than a pencil,


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## Guest (May 12, 2014)

bonnie in indiana said:


> From what I see-------You are writing on the eggs with some kind of marker.
> I have found that pen, sharpies, magic markers---POISON THE EGGS.
> 
> Never write on the eggs with anything other than a pencil,


 I use a pencil on the light colored eggs, but I use a yellow china marker on the Marans eggs because you can't see the pencil markings on those. China markers do not bleed through the shell.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Seems like my problem depends on several factors.All advice and tips are very helpful.

bonnie,As for the marker used for numbering eggs,I've used sharpies for years.No problems.Wouldn't pencils cause lead poisoning?

Fire-Man,I have a combo deal that shows temp.humidity,time,And a little smiling face that blinks.I'm with you,never seen my hens stand eggs up either.On 100 degree August afternoons I've seen them set on the side of the nest next to them.

bettacreek,been there ,done that with styrofoam incubators.Automatic turners,the whole deal.Get 4-5 chicks out of 42,with 25+ pipped and dead.Remove turner,lay eggs on sides and rarely turn them,don't check water,end up with an incubator full.

kycountry,thought of the string deal already.I was going to tie a nail to it and drill holes to stick the nail in.The trays will rotate like they are.Remove the top and bottom tray and the center tray will touch the top and bottom.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Anybody want to share pics of other homemade incubators? My next one is going to be cedar.


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## kycountry (Jan 26, 2012)

Bettacreek said:


> Turning is not the issue here. My bet is that they aren't losing enough moisture during incubation, then they pip into goop and drown. When I moved my bator into my bedroom, I was diligently checking humidity and I had an entire year of failure. Once I gave up and forgot to add water, I got great hatches. Moral, now my incubator sees water when I wash and disinfect it. It does not get ANY humidity or water if there are eggs in it. Incubation humidity is around 16% and hatching humidity is whatever the moisture from the eggs bumps it up to as they hatch.


I don't think it's Turner either... I think it's unstable conditions due to opening the door 3+ times a day.. along with high humidity.... bigger incubators can take a while to stabilize, just in time to turn the eggs again...

That's why I think a way to turn eggs from the outside will be a good start to the solution. 

I'd also take out the water pans.. leave the spray bottle in there.. that way you would have it handy if the chicks started sticking to the shells when they were hatching. Mist them a little to raise the humidity and they should be good to go..


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## 65284 (Sep 17, 2003)

Alan, I wouldn't use Cedar. There's a reason Cedar is used as a closet lining and Cedar chests.


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## Guest (May 13, 2014)

You're not even supposed to use cedar as chick litter. I use cedar shavings in nest boxes to kill lice/mites.

Back when I raised rodents for the wholesale market, it was common knowledge in the rodent world that you don't use cedar shavings in breeding boxes. Any babies born on cedar shavings will die.

You can use redwood to make an incubator.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

I was looking forward to having a cedar incubator.Already got the lumber and everything needed for the box part of it.

kycountry,take the water pans out??? Do you mean when they start to hatch or all the time?

Thanks again for all the help and tips.I'm really glad I ran across this forum.Not many places you can ask for chicken,pig,cow and goat help all in 1 place.


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## bonnie in indiana (May 10, 2002)

Hey--if you use sharpies and you get chicks-go for it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I, myself knows what goes into the ink in sharpies and markers and would rather take a chance with a little lead than the chemicals.

Is there "bad lead" in pencils now days? I don't know.


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## Guest (May 14, 2014)

Pencils don't contain lead, they contain graphite. And the graphite doesn't leak through the shells.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Got 3 chicks [all males] in this batch.May not be a very good percentage but at least they are roosters.3 1/2 Thai 1/2 Grey game stags bring $200.00 each at 1 year old.All I have to do now is keep them from killing each other till they get grown.
I checked the 3 eggs that hatched and the sharpies don't bleed through the egg shell.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

I did some repairs on this thing.I removed the top tray,put 4 5/16th" holes below the door.Added 2 5/16th" and 2 5/8th" holes in the back behind the heater.Also added a cable pulley system to rotate eggs from the outside.Added a tube on the side for adding water without having to open the door.Mounted the bottom fan to the bottom tray blowing on the water pans,top fan blows on the heater.
It's locked and loaded,131 eggs,temps at 98.6 bottom tray,100.2 top tray,49-52% humidity.June 5th will decide if I keep it or torch it.


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## Oxankle (Jun 20, 2003)

Alan: I see that no one has asked you if you opened the incubator during the last three days of hatch? Doing so is almost certain to reduced the humidity to the point that the chicks can pip but not break out.

I agree that you have to have ventilation. Most incubators will have at least three one-inch holes top and bottom with metal covers on a screw so that they can be opened or closed. They must have fresh air. 

The rest of it is probably covered by the posts above. After about ten days of incubation candle, check the size of the air pocket and be guided by that. (You really ought to get out the dead and infertile eggs by ten days.)
Ox


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Yes I have opened it on the last 3 days for turning them.According to my temp.humidity gauge it didn't vary over a couple degrees.It was only open for maybe 20 seconds at a time.

Are my vent holes big enough? Do I need more?

Thanks for all help from everybody.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

Alan the last 3 days should be under lock down. No turning and no opening at all. 
Humidity raised so they can better hatch and not get stuck to the shells.


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## Guest (May 18, 2014)

Well, I know it's not practical for everyone, but I have a separate incubator for hatching so that I don't have any reason to open it during lockdown.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

I didn't know you don't open them the last 3 days.I've used the styrofoam incubators before.Got real good hatches sometimes,other times very few.This last time I set the "Big" inc.and a styro inc.the same day.Lost power due to storms for 18 hours,never opened either.Got 3 out of the Big inc.187 eggs tossed.Got 2 out of the stryo inc.34 eggs tossed.Guess the styro works better.lol If and when I get this big inc working half a-- I'll only get to set it twice a year.Wife says no more than 200 chicks a year.

ladycat,do you take them out of 1 inc and put them in another inc, for the last 3 days?


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## Guest (May 18, 2014)

alan anderson said:


> ladycat,do you take them out of 1 inc and put them in another inc, for the last 3 days?


I have two Styrofoam incubators side by side. One has an automatic turner. That's my incubator. The other one has no turner. That's my hatcher. 

3 days before a clutch of eggs is due, I put them in the hatcher. I make sure there's plenty of water in the wells, and I lay paper towels down on top of the wire mesh. I don't open the hatcher until a full day after the due date. By then, most all the ones that are going to hatch have hatched.

Sometimes there will be a pipped one that hasn't hatched yet, and I'll leave it in there until it hatches or dies.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

I am sitting here now---with 3 styrofoam incubators going-----chicks running around inside them---making so much noise that I got the door to the bedroom closed-----so they do not wake my Wife. BUT, today is day 21 and I just "told" them to be quiet---I will take you out and feed them tomorrow. After day 19 when I relited and remove the turner--I Never open the incubator until day 22 unless all have hatched. I put different breeds(cuckoo maram, black copper maran and barnyard mixed)of eggs in 3 different incubators at the end of day 18 because I did not want them mixed as they were hatching, this if my first time hatching Marans. In one incubator, 7 out of 11 cuckoo's have hatched as of right now, over 1/2 of the filler(barnyard mixed) eggs have hatched in one. The Black Copper in the other one----I got a bad dozen eggs from the Auction----only 3 out of 12 eggs looked good at day 18 and only one has hatched so far(I reported that seller to the Auction House).

I Am A Firm Believer in Not Opening after day 18 till day 22(unless all have hatched!!!


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## Guest (May 18, 2014)

Fire-Man said:


> I Am A Firm Believer in Not Opening after day 18 till day 22(unless all have hatched!!!


 Me too. Lockdown goes into effect on day 18. 

I don't open the bator again until day 22, or until every egg is hatched, whichever occurs first.

Of course it's seldom that EVERY egg hatches, but it happens sometimes.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

ladycat said:


> Me too. Lockdown goes into effect on day 18.
> 
> I don't open the bator again until day 22, or until every egg is hatched, whichever occurs first.
> 
> Of course it's seldom that EVERY egg hatches, but it happens sometimes.


 
This is the first time in several years that I used the styrofoam incubators, but did alot in years past----I been using hatching hens. I used one incubator to incubate the eggs till day 18, then I had 2 more ready as I described in above post. I did not want to mix the Marans with my barnyard chicks eggs I used to finish filling the incubator with. As Mentioned the black copper eggs were about no good, only 3 eggs at lock down, but one of those looked under developed---so far only 2 of the 3 has hatched.
11 of the dozen eggs for The cuckoo showed good but one seem underdeveloped. All 11 hatched but one was smaller and did not draw in all the egg---it died a few hours later. The Barnyard mix----all of the eggs that went into lockdown hatched. 

So on day 21 2 of the 3 incubators were open and chicks moved(Rare I do know) to brooders. I am going to give the black copper till tomorrow(day 22) to see if the third one will hatch.

I bought 3 dozen of blue coppers eggs at Auction to try and hatch and a man gave me 3 dozen pheasant eggs today. Never had any of those.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

I candled the eggs about an hour ago.It's another no go.All eggs are clear,no blood rings,couple have small black spots.After 13 days there should be something in them that I can see.None of the eggs were over 4 days old.Started saving them on Monday the 12th,set them on the 15th.Looks like it's torch time for this crapper.Over 1,000 eggs wasted,don't plan to waste any more.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

If the eggs are indeed clear, they are not fertile.
No blood rings = never been fertile.

You can wait a few more days, if you wish or unsure, candle again then if nothing, crack open.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> I candled the eggs about an hour ago.It's another no go.All eggs are clear,no blood rings,couple have small black spots.After 13 days there should be something in them that I can see.None of the eggs were over 4 days old.Started saving them on Monday the 12th,set them on the 15th.Looks like it's torch time for this crapper.Over 1,000 eggs wasted,don't plan to waste any more.


Alan, are you sure your roosters are doing the job? Not way to many hens per rooster? If that is correct---for all the eggs to be "dead' or bad----something is wrong for sure.

From the pictures---it looks like your heat is not even close to your fan. All the "factory built" cabinet incubators I see----the heat is within inches of the fan so the fan can blow across the heat and the water container is close to the heat. Even most of the ones with light bulbs-----the fan blows on the bulbs.


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## CountryCabin (Mar 8, 2007)

Fire-Man said:


> Alan, are you sure your roosters are doing the job? Not way to many hens per rooster? If that is correct---for all the eggs to be "dead' or bad----something is wrong for sure.


If it was only concerning one rooster, I would say he's shooting blanks.

However there must be way more then one rooster for that many eggs, coming from many hens in a short period of time. 
So logically, there must have many roos for coverage of many hens...yes?
They can not ALL be shooting blanks.

So only thing I can think of off the bat is something wrong in flocks..? but what? Diet? weather? sickness? bug infestation?
Even heavy molting can cause a problem.
All things to look at but not saying that is the case cause we just don't know, we are not there.

As he says, ALL eggs are clear and no blood rings. Meaning eggs were never fertile in the first place.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

All eggs are from the same brood pens that I'm getting 11-12 chicks out of 12 eggs under hens from.Largest pens are the Wheaton Marans and Speckled Sussex[1 cock,6 hens per pen]none are over 2 years old.Set 4 hens with 14 eggs per hen[2 wheaton sets,2 sussex sets]got 52 chicks.It's not unfertile eggs,roosters have to be doing their job or eggs under hens wouldn't be hatching.
I'm setting gamecock eggs in it and under hens,same results.1 broodpen has a 12 year old cock and 8 year old hens,hatched every egg set under hens.Not 1 from inc.
I've got 375 chicks last count,about 20 hens set.I'm going to cut it off till next season.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> All eggs are from the same brood pens that I'm getting 11-12 chicks out of 12 eggs under hens from.Largest pens are the Wheaton Marans and Speckled Sussex[1 cock,6 hens per pen]none are over 2 years old.Set 4 hens with 14 eggs per hen[2 wheaton sets,2 sussex sets]got 52 chicks.It's not unfertile eggs,roosters have to be doing their job or eggs under hens wouldn't be hatching.
> I'm setting gamecock eggs in it and under hens,same results.1 broodpen has a 12 year old cock and 8 year old hens,hatched every egg set under hens.Not 1 from inc.
> I've got 375 chicks last count,about 20 hens set.I'm going to cut it off till next season.


 
OK Alan, You have Narrowed it down-----Got to Be something---or Several Things---Way off with the Incubator!! Good Luck!! Set More Hens!!!


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## Forcast (Apr 15, 2014)

This is a great page. 

How do you use the dehidrator


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Where are you located in South Carolina? I've spent alot of time in the Harleyville/Holly Hill area working at the cement plants.Went to Moncks Corner for the AKC World ******* hunt and water race.
If I ever move from Bama it'll be to Harleyville.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> Where are you located in South Carolina? I've spent alot of time in the Harleyville/Holly Hill area working at the cement plants.Went to Moncks Corner for the AKC World ******* hunt and water race.
> If I ever move from Bama it'll be to Harleyville.


I am 18 air miles from the strand at Myrtle Beach SC.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

I'm to hard headed to give up.One way or another I'm going to fix this sucker.
Does it matter if the heater and water bowl are in the top or bottom? Should the heat and water source be blocked in? From the pics I've seen on homemade inc.s the heat and water seem to be boxed in.

UPDATE= I had 3 hens killing chicks when they pipped,stole eggs and placed in inc.All but 1 egg hatched,the 1 that didn't was pecked by hen and not really expected to live.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> I'm to hard headed to give up.One way or another I'm going to fix this sucker.
> Does it matter if the heater and water bowl are in the top or bottom? Should the heat and water source be blocked in? From the pics I've seen on homemade inc.s the heat and water seem to be boxed in.
> 
> UPDATE= I had 3 hens killing chicks when they pipped,stole eggs and placed in inc.All but 1 egg hatched,the 1 that didn't was pecked by hen and not really expected to live.


I am sure Not a Pro at this, but I know that the incubator works better(better hatch rate) if the air is circulated where there is no hotter/colder spots or spots where the humidity is higher/lower. Looking at your picture---your heat has scorched the top---that means its to hot there----your blower is/was in the wrong place. If you got a BIG box---You need to be Moving Alot of air. You also need to be exchanging air in the box----stale air will kill the Chicks/eggs. I got to run!!


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Still don't work.Changed heater,fans,design,added another fan,an extra water pan[1 top,1 bottom]. No chicks.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> Still don't work.Changed heater,fans,design,added another fan,an extra water pan[1 top,1 bottom]. No chicks.


Mercy, have you been working on this for the last 10 months?


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## Guest (Mar 27, 2015)

Time to start all over and get a new incubator!


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## Allen W (Aug 2, 2008)

alan anderson said:


> I'm to hard headed to give up.One way or another I'm going to fix this sucker.
> Does it matter if the heater and water bowl are in the top or bottom? Should the heat and water source be blocked in? From the pics I've seen on homemade inc.s the heat and water seem to be boxed in.
> 
> UPDATE= I had 3 hens killing chicks when they pipped,stole eggs and placed in inc.All but 1 egg hatched,the 1 that didn't was pecked by hen and not really expected to live.



In my GQF incubator from the back to the front on a shelf or boxed in as you said earlier, there is a vent hole 1.25", the fan pulling air in, the heat element, and room for a couple of pans of water. The shelf is short enough at the front for the air to circulate down over the eggs and exit out a second vent hole in the bottom at the back and the vent holes have movable covers to adjust them.

Keep the air moving in one direction with the heat and water close to the air in take.


**** I went and checked the shelf doesn't extend all the way to the back, there is a 3.5" gap in the front and I presume the same in the back. This keeps the air circulating in a circular pattern with a small continuous air exchange.****

I know what I'm thinking but some times it takes awhile to get it all translated to words.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Fire-man,not the whole 10 months,hens quit laying for awhile.
Ladycat,I've got an incubator,just need the stupid thing to work.
AllenW,thanks for the info.I was trying to design this one like the GQF type incs.

I've got the wood and materials to build another inc.maybe the next one will work.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> I was trying to design this one like the GQF type incs.
> 
> I've got the wood and materials to build another inc.maybe the next one will work.


Alan, I guess you know my first cabinet incubator was built like the GQF and built mostly out of things I had laying around---had to order the thermostat, heating elements, bought some hardware. It works great or has been for the last 10 months----running 24/7. I can not see your pics in the first few post now----so I can not offer any help. If you need any help---I am no pro but I will try to answer any questions.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Thanks for the help.I have no idea where the pics went.See if these come through.It's been modified since pics.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> Thanks for the help.I have no idea where the pics went.See if these come through.It's been modified since pics.


What Modifications has been made since the picture? What wattage is your heater? Is that a blower in the top next to the door and a fan in the bottom? Explain the 2 pans in the bottom---1 looks like it has tape wrapped around it. How does your door Seal when closed? Where and what size is your vent holes?


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Pics show where the vent holes are on the back now.Fan was moved from bottom to top back,it cuts on when the heater does.Metal box in top front is a bathroom vent fan,sucks air from the bottom of it and blows out the side where the PVC pipe is.

There are 4 more vent holes in the bottom front below the door.All holes are 5/16th paddle bit holes.

Heat comes from an element I took from and old heater that had a fan that screamed.It's glass covered metal coiled little bigger than a pencil about 14-16 inches long.No idea on wattage.

Water pans are different now.Tape was to hold the sponge in the pan.It's no longer used either.There's a 2 inch deep plastic 14 X 20 pan that covers nearly the whole floor.

Door has foam rubber weather stripping same as the top to seal it.Locks with a slide type hasp.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Heater is in the metal deal below the red fan.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

Alan, its hard to tell exactually what you got going on. I do not understand the purpose of the bathroom fan in the front. Let me say to start----I am No expert, but I do know what it takes to hatch eggs and get a high percentage of hatch. I am going to tell you in "MY Opinion" what I see and read that needs help.

1. Fan should stay on 24-7.
2. Fan set-up needs help to get a better air circulation.
3. Thermostat is in a bad location now(under the shelf). 
4. Heating element sounds like it is WAY to hot---your cabinet only needs about 250/300 watts(I never seen a heater with that small of a heating element)---any hotter and it can create some serious hot spots especially without good air movement.
5. I feel your water needs to be on the top to get a better, more even humidity.
6. I feel in order to get a good air exchange you need to change your vent holes.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

The bathroom fan runs 24/7,PVC T blows air across heating element towards the back,PVC 90 on T blows air down the front,red ran is wired to heat and blows on heat when heat is on.
Where do vent holes need to be? 
Here's pics of the heating element I'm using.There was 2 of these in the heater I scrapped for parts.It only cuts on for 10-15 seconds at a time once the box heats up.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> The bathroom fan runs 24/7,PVC T blows air across heating element towards the back,PVC 90 on T blows air down the front,red ran is wired to heat and blows on heat when heat is on.
> Where do vent holes need to be?
> Here's pics of the heating element I'm using.There was 2 of these in the heater I scrapped for parts.It only cuts on for 10-15 seconds at a time once the box heats up.


 
Alan, from what I am reading it sounds like you are blowing air towards the back and down the front with the same fan. Then the red fan appears to be blowing towards the front when its on----am I reading this right?


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

That's right.Only way it would keep temp all the way to the bottom.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> That's right.Only way it would keep temp all the way to the bottom.


 Alan, why not blow all the air in one direction-----let the red fan blow 24/7 towards the front, the fan at the front blow down the front towards the bottom only-----that should give you a better air circulation----than blowing towards each other.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

I'll try that.Thanks for the help..


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

Took the advice given and it seems to be helping.I candled the eggs last night,due to hatch the 22nd.About 1/3 appear to be good.

I started another inc.It's designed to hold 4 of the blue 48 egg trays all the same level 8" from the bottom.Need help on where and how big a vent hole does it need? Size is 24"wide 24"high 29" deep,it has 2 fans blowing towards the front,4" gap between the shelf and door,6" gap under fans to pull air up.Pics below.

Thanks in advance for any help.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> Took the advice given and it seems to be helping.I candled the eggs last night,due to hatch the 22nd.About 1/3 appear to be good.
> 
> I started another inc.It's designed to hold 4 of the blue 48 egg trays all the same level 8" from the bottom.Need help on where and how big a vent hole does it need? Size is 24"wide 24"high 29" deep,it has 2 fans blowing towards the front,4" gap between the shelf and door,6" gap under fans to pull air up.Pics below.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.


I can not see how your fan are set-up in the back-----are you saying they are drawing air from the behind the fans from a 6" gap between the top shelf and the back?---The reason I am asking is the Fans do not look like they are 6" from the back.

As far as a hole----probably 1" but they need to be in the right place----according to how your fans are set-up.

Are you planning to have it set-up so the trays turn/tilt---How?

Again I am going to say "I" feel your Heat deal is way to high in wattage----If you like to pick up things to use---a small burner off a old electric stove would probably give you alot lower wattage---probably still a little to hot but closer to what you need than what you are using. The warmer burner off the bottom of a coffee maker is about 1/2 of what you need----so 2 of them should work good. One of those 6" electric fry pans----with adjustable temp control would probably work like a dream----you could "dial" the wattage you need then(do not know how long it would last in this situation)

One other thing----I do not know what type of caulking you used but---keep in mind caulking can give off fumes when heated----not sure how that would work with hatching eggs. I personally would not have used it.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

I rechecked and the fans are 6 1/2 " from the back.4 1/4 " gap in the front.I checked the fans with some feathers,held them in my hand in the middle of the cabinet,opened hand and feathers went up through fans and back in my face.Temps been holding 100.2 since plugged up Friday night,setting on the back porch.

I tried what you said about the coffee pot element in my mini inc.It's 19"X19"X25" high.Holding a steady 99.8 temp.

Got another ? for you.I have 3 digital thermometers,setting side by side they show 3 different temps.on the top shelf of inc.[98.5-109.5]Take them out and set on table and they read the same temp.Any ideas?


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

alan anderson said:


> IGot another ? for you.I have 3 digital thermometers,setting side by side they show 3 different temps.on the top shelf of inc.[98.5-109.5]Take them out and set on table and they read the same temp.Any ideas?


Its probably because of the air movement with the "hot" heat strip you got. Give each thermometer a number with tape or write it in them---Put them where the eggs are going to be---if you have to set a bucket in there---to hold them the height of where the eggs will be. See what the temp reads after a couple hours---write it down---trade places with them and see how they read again----If you still getting a high reading on the same ones---you will know its the thermometers.


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## alan anderson (Mar 2, 2014)

I went to Wal-mart and got 3 digital type that were just alike.All 3 read the same except 1 had a 1% difference in humidity from the other 2,checked all 3 in all 3 inc.s,only got the 1% humidity difference in the "Big" inc.Did away with the others.


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