# How do I get around binding clothing edge?



## okiemom (May 12, 2002)

I am getting back to my apron from Sense and Sensability pattern :dance: and it is telling me to bind my edges. :Bawling: I really don't want to make bias and I am not sure I really want to but it eithter. I am not sure I want to install it. It always come out wavy (quilts) and I don't want to hand stich it :flame: . How to I get around using this stuff? Do I sound difficult enough? :Bawling:  

I wouldn't mind lining it but I don't know how.


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## mamajohnson (Nov 27, 2002)

Well, not sure what your pattern is like, but I would just do a little hem on it. You can even top stitch the hem if you dont want to hand sew it. I do stuff like that all the time, I dont like hand sewing hems. Dont like doing binding either.
It could be tricky if it is a rounded shape tho.


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## okiemom (May 12, 2002)

thanks, 

I might be able to get away w/ hemming some of it. I might even be able to surge some. I think finishing edges is what is holding me up from being a good sewer. I am "done" when all the parts are together, not when it is truly finished.


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## Billie in MO (Jun 9, 2002)

I rarely bind anything, either. What I do is line it, (put right sides together), sew around it, leaving a small opening so I can turn it inside out. Then I stitch all the way around it, closing the opening as I go. Just use a pretty fabric on the back and in effect, it becomes reversible.


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## stirfamily (Jun 18, 2002)

It is so good to hear I'm not the only one who hates binding! I too have an apron sitting in the almost finished stage that calls for binding all around the edges. Billie in CO I really like your idea!
Karen in Indiana


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

Can you do a rolled hem on the edges? Just turn under barely and sew, then turn under again and sew. This will keep the edges nice and not nearly as bad as a binding. Or trying to do both rolls at the same time unless you are use to a rolled hem foot on your machine.

Angie


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## BeckyW (Mar 11, 2003)

Let's talk a minute about wavy results with bias binding. 
As a general rule, one of two things has happened:
1. Your underfabric (what you are putting the binding on) either has not been eased on the curve OR
2. You've stretched the underfabric as you installed the bias binding (or visa versa).

When you are putting binding over an inside curve, treat the underfabric as you would an armhole curve on a dress - very gently snip the edges so that the fabric can expand. AND be very careful to give enough ease to the binding. The tendency is to pull the binding - and thus waves when you are finished.

On an outer curve, it tends to be the binding that is stretched and not the underfabric. 

On the straight, the problem can be in the original cutting (is isn't cut exactly on the grain) or you are pulling your binding.

Bias stretches VERY easily - that's the whole point of bias. Sometimes in our speed in applying, we are pulling on it without realizing even that extra bit of tension is having a effect.

And finally, a seamstress trick that works on all sewing. Do you ever end up at the bottom of sewing two piece of fabric together that started out pinned perfectly even (and you cut them perfectly even at the same time off the same pattern piece -- ie the 2 back pieces sewn together) and suddenly one piece is 1/4-1/2 longer than the other - or even worse? 
Here's how you avoid that:
When you place the two fabrics to be sewn together, lower the machine needle down into and through the fabric THEN lower the presser foot. Now you're ready to start machine sewing the seam. 
Have you been lowering the presser foot and letting the needle penetrate as you start sewing? Well, here's what happens when you do that, the bottom teeth are pulling the bottom fabric while you are feeding the top fabric through the machine as you sew the seam. The result is the two pieces of fabric can be pulled just enough differently that you end up with one piece "growing" by the time you get to the bottom of the seam. The lighter weight the fabric, the more likely you'll end up with a mismatch at the bottom.

Also be sure you are feeding your fabric straight as you sew.

I was shown all these little tricks years ago - such little things that make a big difference in the finished appearance of the garment. I sew for a theater company - while all this saves time and aggrivation on one garment, when you're doing 57 it really adds up!

I just finished a set of 1930s style canning aprons - turned out so Aunt Bee! And yes, loaded with bias. Sew the back side of the bias on first, leaving the topside open - make sure all lies flat. Then sew the finished topside. Yes, it's double sewing -- we were using single fold bias and this way I didn't have to worry about making sure all was perfectly caught on both sides with one sewing. 

BW


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## sewsilly (May 16, 2004)

I second everything Becky said, and I'll hasten to add that if you learn to do bias right, which takes a few hours of time and practice on 'samples' you'll never regret the time spent doing so. It is a matter of learning to manipulate both hands and machine properly. self made bias tape is by far better than what you purchase at town and the investment in a bias tape maker (about 4 bucks) is a wise one, if you don't have this already.

I've done the apron in question and frankly, it needs the bias. 

Quit fighting the bias, and enjoy the process! It's a beautiful apron.


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## 5webbkids (Jul 26, 2007)

I ummmm LOVE making bias binding! It's therapy for me! I have always loved to use it. My first sewing project 20 some odd years ago was a top that was trimmed in bias binding, I have been hooked since! I just recently (last year) learned to make it.....I have made probably hundreds of yards of it, I use it a lot since now I can co-ordinate my garment with my binding! I do starch the heck out of it when I make it, and wind it on cardstock so I can look at all the pretty tape! Hemming??? What's hemming? I am covering that in bias baaaaaby! LOL


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## Wilkie (Sep 21, 2006)

> Do you ever end up at the bottom of sewing two piece of fabric together that started out pinned perfectly even (and you cut them perfectly even at the same time off the same pattern piece -- ie the 2 back pieces sewn together) and suddenly one piece is 1/4-1/2 longer than the other - or even worse?
> 
> Here's how you avoid that:
> When you place the two fabrics to be sewn together, lower the machine needle down into and through the fabric THEN lower the presser foot. Now you're ready to start machine sewing the seam.
> ...


I have sewed for over 40 years and am fairly accomplished (if I do say so myself), but even so, still occasionally run into the 1/4" extra bit, and it's maddening. I never thought about doing the needle this way before, and I'll try this for my next project. Thanks!


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## MoCrafter (May 19, 2004)

Becky, thanks so much for your tips. I have sewed for over 30 years, but I'm still learning. I am always having one piece end up longer when I sew skirts. I can hardly wait to try your tip. :hobbyhors 

Winona


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## okiemom (May 12, 2002)

I tried to do the binding w/ the machine and it was so bad. :flame: I can't sew binding on straight to save my life. :Bawling: I refuse to do it all by hand.

I was looking around at the other sewing threads and found one that explained feet. :dance: No one mentioned that there was a foot for this. :nono: I kept looking at my professionally done apron and could not figure out how it was sewn on both sides perfectly. Of course it had to be a foot. There seems to be a foot for everything. Now I will just have to morgage the house to buy one. :Bawling: 

The tread about how to use the feet is wonderful!!!!!!!!


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