# Shingles -vs- Metal



## Laura Zone 5 (Jan 13, 2010)

The house I am looking at has 3 layers of shingles on warped decking. The whole thing has to come off.

What are the pros and cons of shingles -vs- a metal roof??


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Laura Zone 5 said:


> The house I am looking at has 3 layers of shingles on warped decking. The whole thing has to come off.
> 
> What are the pros and cons of shingles -vs- a metal roof??


Architectural shingles are available in a wide variety of colors, blends, and up to a 50 year warranty.
Metal is solid colors, 40 year warranty, and really has an interesting look after a good hail storm.
Cost should be similar, they both are good, and its about what you prefer.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Laura Zone 5 said:


> The house I am looking at has 3 layers of shingles on warped decking. The whole thing has to come off.
> 
> What are the pros and cons of shingles -vs- a metal roof??


Metal costs about 30% more if you factor in labor (metal prices have crashed). Metal outlasts shingles x2 or longer (I'd say x4, but I haven't lived that long). Shingles are the devil's handiwork..imho
I've installed both, many times, and without a shred of doubt, shingles suck (bleeding fingers, tedious, etc). Then, depending on where you live, you have de-moss roof every other year with shingles. Shingles are oil based (fire hazard)...for water recovery off roof, I'd rather have metal. And, with hidden fasteners on metal roof nowadays, no leaks, ever. 
There is no comparison, metal by a country mile. As for hail, get a thicker gauge. I don't get hail a lot up here, but the hail I've gotten, has done nothing. It does depend on quality of metal, coating etc. Same could be said for shingles. 
BTW - I'll never get a shingled roof again...


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## sammyd (Mar 11, 2007)

We are very happy with our metal roof. The quote was less than any shingle quote we received.


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## Darren (May 10, 2002)

Whichever you get, know exactly what you have to do to get the warranty. Query shingle manufacturers, not contractors for that info. For flat roofs, not likely on a residence, the warranty comes from the manufacturer and has specific requirements including passing the manufacturer's inspection.


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## fordy (Sep 13, 2003)

elevenpoint said:


> Architectural shingles are available in a wide variety of colors, blends, and up to a 50 year warranty.
> Metal is solid colors, 40 year warranty, and really has an interesting look after a good hail storm.
> Cost should be similar, they both are good, and its about what you prefer.


 ...........Any kind of roof with a 25 or 50 year warranty is a joke ! You're only good up to the next bad hail storm . Make sure your homeowners policy has replacement cost as a part of the policy . 
, fordy


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

fordy said:


> ...........Any kind of roof with a 25 or 50 year warranty is a joke ! You're only good up to the next bad hail storm . Make sure your homeowners policy has replacement cost as a part of the policy .
> , fordy


Tornadoes have a detrimental effect on roofs also.


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## rxkeith (Apr 13, 2009)

we have a metal roof. snow slides off easier than with shingles. thats important for us because we get lots of snow every year.

firemen don't like metal roofs. i work with two people whose husbands are fire chiefs for their respective city/town. metal roofs can't be vented in case of a house fire. they won't have a house with a metal roof.


keith


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

rxkeith said:


> we have a metal roof. snow slides off easier than with shingles. thats important for us because we get lots of snow every year.
> 
> firemen don't like metal roofs. i work with two people whose husbands are fire chiefs for their respective city/town. metal roofs can't be vented in case of a house fire. they won't have a house with a metal roof.
> 
> ...


Maybe I'm missing something, but your saying these fire chiefs won't get a metal roof because they can't axe their way into their own home, via the roof, if they have metal? 
They are an optimistic bunch....
They could throw in a skylight to solve that problem.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

Standing seam metal. Also much better on flatter roofs. Firemen now have diamond chain on their chain saws and diamond blade saws, both will go right through metal roofs, actually easier than 2-3 layers of comp roof. One problem is they have to be vented more to get the heat out, it does hold it in longer because it doesn't self vent (burn through) as quickly. 1/2" 5 ply plywood, heavy felt and the roofing. Hail doesn't damage it as bad because it sets flat to the plywood underlayment. Because of the way it locks together and using the right fasteners it stays put in many hurricanes....James


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## Steve_S (Feb 25, 2015)

Up here the cost for the typical Ameri-Cana profile tin (see image below) is $2.40 CAD / $1.85 USD per linear foot. These are 36" width coverage and usually come with a 25 year warranty which can go up depending on thickness and finish (Galvanised vs Epoxy Pigment etc). An optional underside treatment for moisture & sound control is also available called CondenStopÂ® which many metal/tin roofing companies can provide (it added $260.00 to the cost of my entire roof & WELL WORTH IT).

Cutting through 28 gauge tin is no more difficult than cutting through shingles given the saws firemen use... Solar Panels on a roof present more issues for firefighter's than a tin roof... consider why "Hot Spot Fire Regions" recommend metal roofing & siding as preventative and use your critical thinking as to the why of it.

There are gains to be had IF you are re-roofing with Tin vs Shingle as you can increase the insulation value of your roof, including air venting and preventing thermal heat transfer between the roof & exterior keeping heat in during winter & heat out during summer saving you dollars every day on your heating & cooling costs. Check out http://www.houstoncoolmetalroofs.com/cool-roof-information/cool-roof-design-texas/ for a good overview of the design concept, more info is available if you search Greenbuilding Advisor and Building Science Corporation. 

Lastly, consider that non-metal shingles are fuel for fires where tin cannot burn or ignite on contact with sparks & embers and that tin roof's do not collect needles, leaves or other potential debris that shingles do.

Ameri-Cana profile tin.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Looks like the same profile used here, a few weeks ago price quoted was $62.00 a square for painted and $48.00 a square for galvalume. Metal goes on fast for a straight gable roof but quite a bit more work for valleys, chimneys, skylights, etc. Trim will drive the price up.
Back to the OP, my concern would be a warped roof. A roof that has been framed and sheeted correctly will not warp. Although the prices I quoted here sound good, tearing off 3 layers, hauling off all debris, a new roof, someone that has been in business quite some time, a written warranty against leaking, may be $250-$300 a square.


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## arnie (Apr 26, 2012)

if you have a choice take metal and never have to do the roof again .to may save a few cents with a shingle roof ;so if you are planning on selling right away it may be worth the saveings


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

I am a builder and have put on acres and acres of steel roofs on commercial and industrial buildings, standing seam and screw down, colored and plain metal. Love the product and promote it heavily for these applications.

But ...... A proper installation costs a whole lot more than a shingle roof, at least double, maybe triple. My house has shingles, they will last 15-20 years no problem.

Metal has really taken off on residential in last 10 years or so for some of the reasons mentioned by others above. But ..... the only reason people are getting metal roofs installed on their homes at anywhere near the price of a shingle roof is because they are doing, sloppy, crappy installations of the metal roofing that will not stand the test of time. 

Many cheapo contractors are taking ribbed metal pole barn panels and screwing them down right over shingle roofs with very little consideration for the how well the screws will hold in the deck. They also do a very sloppy job with the venting, trims and flashings, but from the road, to the average person, a metal roof is a metal roof and it looks nice. Some of these are going to blow apart easy in heavy storms, and some will be haunted with leak problems.

To the original poster .... that house needs all of those layers of shingles removed, a new OSB or plywood deck installed, underlayment, then your choice of shingles or metal. At that point I'll bet you will see the metal is at least double the price of shingles.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Is that double including labor? I don't see it as being that much, from what I've done. Of course, depends on roof style....even then, I see it as being no more than 50% more than a 'good' shingle job. 
Laura, what type of roof do you have? Gable, shed, dormers etc...

I give my plans to a roofing fabricator, who makes up the whole roof, then I'd pick it up. Everything was cut to size and angled, except last row. 
All roofs up here have hidden fasteners, except trim...we live in a rainforest. 
If you go metal, get the best coating...see this site, at bottom...note the coatings. PVDF is the best you can get...imho
http://www.makinmetals.ca/makin-colours/colour-chart
I fancy the copper penny myself...

Makin makes the metal for my fabricator. If you are getting quotes, make sure a metal roof comes with drip edge, top and edge caps (valley flashing where needed). Unless you need ventilation at top, ask to have top cap folded over or a bug/water screen. 
Would insist on butyl based underlay (peel'n stick rubber underlay like Blueskin). I have used ashpalt based (bitumen) underlay, but I put a sheet of typar on top so underside of metal roof doesn't scratch when it expands and contracts. Vents be sealed with glue and screw down rubber collars designed for metal roofs. 

Totally agree with Fish about prep...your roof, including sheathing, has to go.


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## MO_cows (Aug 14, 2010)

Our town we live close to went thru a tornado in 2014. The house next door to dad's rental had a steel roof. A BIG tree was felled by the tornado and landed on their house. They had to replace the sheets of steel that were bent by the tree, maybe 25% of the roof. Everybody on the street who had shingles had to get a whole new roof. Also if you live in wildfire country the metal roof helps protect your house. If you live in snow country it helps the snow slide off. Metal does cost more up front for a good product and quality workmanship, but it lasts longer and even if you do get "baseball size" hail and get it dented up, you get scrap steel price for the old roof when it gets replaced. As opposed to paying for a dumpster to put old shingles in. So the value is there, it's just a matter of affording it up front.


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## HMAN (Sep 15, 2008)

if you use metal for a home you will need to use standing seam. (no exposed fasteners)
DO NOT use barn metal. your roof WILL leak over time. the screws used have rubber washers that break down over time. the metal will for sure outlast shingles , but the paint will for sure fade. so.... as long as your fine with the color you pick forever and realize that it will fade. then metal is a smart choice. 

shingles are ok too and most homeowners on here can install themselves. but they dont have as long of a life. that 40-50Year warranty you can use as toilet paper. thay are all pro rated and most shingle companies get bought out or change hands. good luck getting any money after a 20 year period

in the end. i personally would go with shinlges. i just think they look better .


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

*if you use metal for a home you will need to use standing seam. (no exposed fasteners)
DO NOT use barn metal. your roof WILL leak over time. the screws used have rubber washers that break down over time. *

Standing seam would be best, but it's expensive. A standard screw fastened panel is fine on a simple gabled roof where you don't have real long runs, hips, valleys or tricky flashing details. The screws are not a problem if they are anchored into something solid. Going thru several layers of shingles into a crummy deck and they will be a problem.

*the metal will for sure outlast shingles , but the paint will for sure fade. so.... as long as your fine with the color you pick forever and realize that it will fade. then metal is a smart choice. *

Good quality metal will not fade. You need to purchase material with a Kynar painted finish rather than the cheaper silicone polyester stuff. You can replace a panel on a Kynar painted building ten years later and won't see much difference between the new and original.


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## HMAN (Sep 15, 2008)

agree to disagree

the screw isnt the problem. its the rubber washer that breaks down and then causes a gap and leaks. 

all paint fades over time when its out in the sun and harsh enviroment like a roof.

dont get me wrong. i like metal. great for some. everyone just need to do there homework and look at different jobs in person.


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## MOSTBCWT (May 5, 2016)

Metal. All day all the way. Screw into the ribs and not on the flat surface. Don't worry about it for 30-40 years.


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## Declan (Jan 18, 2015)

Interesting responses. When I redid my roof, doing it in metal would have been a lot more expensive than 50 year shingles. They still have to replace the sheathing that needs replacing and build the frame for the metal roofing. It is apparently a lot more labor intensive if you are hiring someone to do it. I did the architectural shingles for less than 5K. The cheapest metal quote I got was almost twice that. Maybe it is because my roof has a few valleys to contend with. IDK.


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

*They still have to replace the sheathing that needs replacing and build the frame for the metal roofing.*

What is "the frame" for metal roofing?
If you have suitable wood decking, you can cover it with felt and simply lay the metal roofing right on top of this and screw into the deck. It is done all the time.


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## MOSTBCWT (May 5, 2016)

Fishindude said:


> *They still have to replace the sheathing that needs replacing and build the frame for the metal roofing.*
> 
> What is "the frame" for metal roofing?
> If you have suitable wood decking, you can cover it with felt and simply lay the metal roofing right on top of this and screw into the deck. It is done all the time.



Probably talking about 1x4 lathing strips. No major expense there


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

HMAN said:


> agree to disagree
> 
> the screw isnt the problem. its the rubber washer that breaks down and then causes a gap and leaks.
> 
> ...


Old school roofs around here use those screws you mention, but nowadays, up here, the roof is attached with flat head screws (aka Modify Truss Head Self-Drilling Screw) on one side, click-lock on the other side of a run. So, other than the edge/top caps which have those rubber washers, all fasteners are under the overlapping seams. Sure, the cap screws will degrade over time, but just around the edge of roof, and since they are on high points, I doubt one would even notice (if you have good underlay). 
Yeah, I haven't been alive long enough to say whether PVDF 'paint' will not fade in 50 yrs...although some research would yield clues. On metal roofs I've done 10yrs ago, no fading at all. The durability when working with PVDF coated metal roofs has impressed me (like when folks walk on it...:grit.


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

MOSTBCWT said:


> Probably talking about 1x4 lathing strips. No major expense there


Would never attach a metal roof to 1 or 2 x, a metal roof should be screwed to a solid surface.
Never over shingles.


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## MOSTBCWT (May 5, 2016)

elevenpoint said:


> Would never attach a metal roof to 1 or 2 x, a metal roof should be screwed to a solid surface.
> 
> Never over shingles.



Well let's see. I've got one home that's 22 years into a 1x4 lathing metal roof job over shingles and it's perfect. 

I'm 17 years into another screwed directly to the wood and felt paper and it's good to go

I'm 3 years into a cabin with roofing mounted to 1x4 lathing over felt paper and it's great too. 

If the lathing is securely attached across the run of the roof to the ceiling joists then you are much better off having your metal screwed to that as opposed to osb or some type of particle board that most subroofing is made of these days. The problem lies in your rubber washers being over torqued or screwed down in the flat portion of the metal as opposed to on top of the ribs. Bottom line is don't let a dumb----- do your roof.


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## Laura Zone 5 (Jan 13, 2010)

The house I am looking to buy, the roof has 3 layers of shingles and warped decking. 
It will ALL have to be removed and replaced.

I figured that since I had to strip all the way to the decking I may as well get opinions on metal vs shingles!

I really appreciate this conversation!!!


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## wkndwrnch (Oct 7, 2012)

I installed metal on all our buildings on the property. Really very easy to work with,can be cut to almost any length you need. I plan on this being the last roof I have to deal with.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

I think you would be hard pressed to find a asphalt shingle MFG that would make good on a 25 year shingle that was cracking and curling in 20 or less years. Check and see most requite a recite, bet ya haven't got one.

I installed my last shingle in 1996 on the house, for me a whole lot of work to do the job right.

In 2001 I built our UP deer camp cabin installed a deck then 3/4 inch purlins and installed sheet metal. 30 year warranty on the paint against fading, chipping, cracking and rust. Our insurance rate was lower because in a area with over 100 inches of snow fall a year the sheet metal sheds the snow with out our helping. Was also cheaper because wind blown ashes from a forest fire will not start on the roof. So over 14 years we have had hail storms, big 3 inch dia. tree branches come down on the roof and we see now damage.
We figure we paid about 500.00 more for the total roof over shingles then with the discount on the insurance it comes to about 250.00 for the first year and is reduced in cost every year the insurance is paid.
I love to sleep in the loft during a night rain storm.

Installed metal on the pole barn roof 2004. Only one layer of shingles were on it so I just laid down 3/4 inch purlins and then the sheet metal. I used long flat head screws with felt washers so they would go thru the purlins shingles deck and thru the trusses. It is a dark brown color and today there is no fading in the color nor chalkiness.

2005 built our honey house and the steel roof went on just the same as the cabin in the UP. With both the honey house and the pole barn the insurance went down because of the material the roof is covered with.

 Al


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Any shingle warranty is prorated, you don't get a full replacement after 20 years. Metal warranty is no different. You will not see hardly any metal roofs on a high end home anywhere. They both have there place but metal is a country thing.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Metal may have at one time been a country thing for a modest home. Not like that in my area any longer with all the different types and styles of metal roofing. Even the 5000 sq ft brick monsters in new subs here have metal roofs. 
People don't want to be reshingleing every 20 years on those steep pitches and Multa valley roofs.

This is how 99% of new construction roof look before the steel install. the air gap prevents sweating.



Shedding snow.





 Al


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## OffGridCooker (Jan 29, 2010)

Metal roofs reflect radiant heat and makes your house cooler.
Rain water collected from a metal roof is cleaner than from a shingle roof which gives off VOC ( volitable organic compounds).
The aggregate from shingle roofs gets on your gutters.
I used paper under my metal roof instead of tar paper to prevent sweating under the metal.


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## Steve_S (Feb 25, 2015)

Below is a chart from a manufacturer of metal roofing panels that lists the solar reflectivity values for their different color choices.

"Metal Roofing Panel Color and Solar Reflectivity" Chart









The chart also shows the emissivity and SRI (Solar Reflectance Index) values for each color are listed as well. The term emissivity refers to how well a material reradiates or reemits the heat that it has absorbed. The SRI is a calculation based on the solar reflectivity and emissivity values, and provides a value for how well a given material (or paint color in this case) rejects the sun&#8217;s heat.The higher the SRI value, the cooler the roof panel stays under full sun.

From the chart we can see that the &#8220;natural white&#8221; metal roofing panel has the best SRI rating at 93, and the &#8220;award blue&#8221; panel has the worst at just 12. The color of a roof surface makes a huge difference in how cool it is. Does this mean if you want a cool roof you have to have a white roof? Not necessarily, as I will explain in a minute.

So the first line of defense against the sun&#8217;s heat is to choose a roof surface that has a high SRI rating. This will minimize how much heat is absorbed by the roof surface and conducted into the home.


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

Some manufacturers have some special "cool roof" paint systems where even darker colors do a very rood job reflecting radiant heat. If you want to keep your cost down, just go with a plain old silver galvalume finish roof, it's cheaper than a painted panel, and I kind of like the old fashioned look.


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## 7thswan (Nov 18, 2008)

We just had our 30x40 pole barn which had shigles done. And our 100+year old house done. Amish workers and Amish steel. Their steel was even cheaper than cost from DH's salesman Brother.It took the 5 workers 2 1/2 hour to take down cuopla and lay down 2x4's trim and metal-done.$2,590. for all.
$ 5,950. for house. House was not easy eather, they leveled one steep pitched area. 2 skylights and 3 metal chimenys on another area with 2 shed roofs.


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## OffGridCooker (Jan 29, 2010)

Steve_S said:


> Below is a chart from a manufacturer of metal roofing panels that lists the solar reflectivity values for their different color choices.
> 
> "Metal Roofing Panel Color and Solar Reflectivity" Chart
> 
> ...


I looked at that exact chart before I chose Sierra Tan for my roof color.
It reduced my cooling cost significantly.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Did a google search of metal vs shingle roofs...still cannot believe how some 'reputable' sites still flog shingles as a viable option next to metal roofs. 
I suspect old habits die hard. I do like Mike Holmes, but disagree from time to time on his building methods (he is an easterner, and there are slight variations given seismic and climatic differences). For example, I like my builds to be as accessible as possible (he loves spray foam), in case I need access to alter etc. 
He sums up the debate pretty well.
http://www.hgtv.ca/blog/mike-holmes-best-roof-materials/

I think shingles, in their day, were a viable alternative to cedar shakes, tile or slate (which requires a stout roof). Now, there is no contest, unless your a contractor doing tract housing where the immediate price matters to them. But over the long haul, metal is cheaper. 

http://www.builderonline.com/products/pros-and-cons-asphalt-shingles-vs-metal-roofing_o

It actually makes me ill to read 'reputable' folks muddy the water on the issue. It is like they stopped evolving once they mastered a process. I would see a lot of that in builds I would inspect (doing things 'old school'). Or they are comparing old corrugated metal to shingles...nobody uses that around here, except on chicken coops. 

Unless your flipping a house, metal is the prime option, unless your in the 1% crowd and slate takes your fancy. As for cost, most folks don't have complicated roofs, and if they do, they can afford it. A typical gabled roof is incredibly easy for metal roof installer. 

Lastly, the warranty spouted by the shingle industry is garbage. I never seen a 25yr or 40 yr shingle last 25 or 40 yrs. However, I have seen those shingles need replacement in half their warranty period. Just recently, I was chatting with a neighbor whose 25yr roof needed replacement after 10 yrs. And if you live in a wet forested area, with a shady side on roof, your paying big money to have some bloke clean off the moss every two or three years or you can dump chemical or zinc strip on it every year...

To me, there is no metal vs shingle debate. Shingles are not even in the same league, especially since metal has evolved with hidden fasteners and durable coatings. 

/rant :whistlin:


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

*It actually makes me ill to read 'reputable' folks muddy the water on the issue. It is like they stopped evolving once they mastered a process. I would see a lot of that in builds I would inspect (doing things 'old school'). Or they are comparing old corrugated metal to shingles...nobody uses that around here, except on chicken coops. *

Around here, the most commonly used metal roofing for re-roofs, by far is corrugated metal panels with 3/4" tall ribs at 9" centers. Good standing seam installations on homes are pretty rare.

*Unless your flipping a house, metal is the prime option, unless your in the 1% crowd and slate takes your fancy. As for cost, most folks don't have complicated roofs, and if they do, they can afford it. A typical gabled roof is incredibly easy for metal roof installer. *

Still a lot easier and cheaper to do same simple roof with shingles, and they are good for +/- 20 years which is about as far out as most people think or plan anyway.

*Lastly, the warranty spouted by the shingle industry is garbage. I never seen a 25yr or 40 yr shingle last 25 or 40 yrs. However, I have seen those shingles need replacement in half their warranty period. *

Read the warranty on metal, it's not typically much better and only covers a percentage of the material value pro-rated over time, no remove or reinstall is covered.

*
Just recently, I was chatting with a neighbor whose 25yr roof needed replacement after 10 yrs. And if you live in a wet forested area, with a shady side on roof, your paying big money to have some bloke clean off the moss every two or three years or you can dump chemical or zinc strip on it every year.*

Some truth to this. Metal roofs will get pretty nasty looking in this environment too, but at least they can be cleaned without damage.

*To me, there is no metal vs shingle debate. Shingles are not even in the same league, especially since metal has evolved with hidden fasteners and durable coatings. *

It's all a matter of what you can afford and how long you intend to stay in the house. Not too many home buyers are going to pay a premium for metal either, all they care is that is doesn't leak. 

My company has been doing metal roofs for decades and we have some out there that are 45 years old and still performing well with very little maintenance on them since first installed. No question a metal roof is the best long term value, but they cost way, way more than shingles and cost is always a key consideration for the buyer.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

While cost is a factor and as a lump sum is hard to swallow for some people. But when you average in the cost over the expected life of the roof the steel is hands down the best cost per sq ft on the market.

then add in the discounts from insurance cost of steel over shingles and that reduces it even more. 

 Al


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

*While cost is a factor and as a lump sum is hard to swallow for some people. But when you average in the cost over the expected life of the roof the steel is hands down the best cost per sq ft on the market.

then add in the discounts from insurance cost of steel over shingles and that reduces it even more.*

Yep, lifetime costs is the pitch we use to sell metal roofs, and I've got a bunch of old ones out there that have been doing the job for decades with minimal or zero issues. But .... we also recognize that you need to have a solution for different budgets, and not everyone has a metal roof budget.

Don't really see insurance discounts for metal in the midwest. I suspect that would be in areas prone to wildfires.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

*
Around here, the most commonly used metal roofing for re-roofs, by far is corrugated metal panels with 3/4" tall ribs at 9" centers. Good standing seam installations on homes are pretty rare. *

I get the sense many places are not using hidden fasteners roof system. which is odd, given they are not much different than exposed fastener roofs (just a different setup/dies on Roofing Sheet Roll Forming Machine). 
*

Still a lot easier and cheaper to do same simple roof with shingles, and they are good for +/- 20 years which is about as far out as most people think or plan anyway. *
I disagree to a point on the 'lot easier' point you make on a 'simple roof' design, like a gabled roof. With a hidden fastener metal roof, it is quite quick to throw up. I could beat all but the best roofer in our hood (he is phenom, not your typical roofer) using shingles. And it requires little mental acuity, once you've got the first course properly aligned. I've priced out both shingles and metal for the same simple job, and while metal is about 50% more in cost, my labor is about 30% less for metal. This is just for a shed style or gable roof on a new build. We do have to factor in how I get it...I get the metal roof premade, so there is little fabb'ing onsite. It is lighter to work with than bundles of shingles. I don't need to have to setup equipment to haul the metal onto the roof, like I do with shingles. 
I also believe we are comparing two different warranties...shingle warranties are absolute nonsense. A metal roof warranty is based on reality. Forgetting the warranty for either, shingles in most areas last 15yrs tops, with good maintenance (I still think one is pushing it at that). A modern metal roof will last 40 yrs without a problem and very little maintenance. And the more important issue for most, is not colour fading, but not getting leaks, and a galvalume metal roof will probably go for 60 yrs...

*
Read the warranty on metal, it's not typically much better and only covers a percentage of the material value pro-rated over time, no remove or reinstall is covered.*
I just did...Makin will cover 100% material...no pro-rated warranty. Removal and installs are not covered. At least you could sell your old metal roof rather than pay a dump to take the shingle roof.
http://www.makinmetals.ca/products/prepaint

*
Some truth to this. Metal roofs will get pretty nasty looking in this environment too, but at least they can be cleaned without damage. *
As I like taking pics...will show two buildings, side by side, one with metal and another with shingles...both are under douglas firs. The metal self cleans (winter storms dump debris on it, then in summer the debris dries up and blows off), the shingle roof is a nightmare. Now I get most folks are in the clear, from tree debris and get plenty of sun, so moss doesn't grow. 

*
My company has been doing metal roofs for decades and we have some out there that are 45 years old and still performing well with very little maintenance on them since first installed. No question a metal roof is the best long term value, but they cost way, way more than shingles and cost is always a key consideration for the buyer.*

Guess I live in an area that has cheap metal roofing prices or inflated shingle prices....I know how a complicated roof design can slow down a metal roof install, whereas a roofer can cut a shingle on the fly, but from my experience, shingles require a lot of fuss and staging equipment(first course, staggering, weaving in gabled ends, and flashing, plus ridge cap (and lots of measuring/snapping a line, to ensure your on line). Metal just has a drip edge (I see many folks don't use it), then you start laying...afterwards, side and top caps. 

I think once the hidden fastener metal roof becomes common place, with PVDF (Kynar) paint, shingles will fall by the wayside.

And around here, metal roofs are seen as the standard...when selling a home and you have shingles, you usually have to offer a discount based on the age of the roof. If you get a metal roof, your place instantly becomes more valuable. Like I said, we live in a place that sees rain for months on end, and roof integrity is of utmost importance. Oh yeah, one more positive for a metal roof other than saving on AC in summer is it easier to see defects. 

Some morons decided to install shingles on some tract housing using 'cedar chairs', which put gouges in shingles...hard to see, until leaks were present. I had to fix a neighbors place because the plumber or roofer forgot to put on a collar when the plumber rammed the main stack through the shingled roof. Being black on black, no one noticed until there was water damage inside. With it being difficult to see from ground, and a particularly hard place to access with a ladder, he basically had a hole in roof for eight years! lol
I couldn't believe it....the puncture made it look like there was a collar, but with all the roofing debris, you couldn't see it was the pieces of shingle making it look like a collar.


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

Wow !
Those are some nasty roof conditions, assume you are in rain forest type area of pacific northwest?

It's obvious you are a "metal roofer" by choice and prefer and promote this product. I agree with and understand all of the benefits, but it sounds like there are drastic regional difference between our locations.

We can get 20 trouble free years out of a shingle roof here if they aren't in the woods, and can probably purchase one at least 50% cheaper (installed) than any type of metal roof. I doubt you could get anyone to pay much more for a house roofed with metal around here either.

I do commercial, industrial work, not residential. Concealed fastener "flat pan" standing seam roofs are definitely the way to go, but darned few install them on homes around here. They just put painted, screw down pole building panels down and call it a metal roof. Installed correctly on a simple roof without challenging flashings, this system works fine and is pretty trouble free. Throw in some hips and valleys and it could be a problem.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Yeah, you nailed location. 

That was a good 3-4" thick of debris after 8yrs....thankfully, we had a 8wk drought when I shimmied up there...it came off like straw. 
I'm clued in now to the regional variations of metal roof standards...lol

There is something to be said for corrugated metal roofs...they have adequate gap spacing for drying out the underside. But the new metal roofs up here have sufficient profile depth to accomplish the same thing (and we use butyl based underlay). Nobody uses corrugated metal on roofs up here anymore. 
We are using corrugated metal roofing on walls though, as it save times for rain-screening (don't have to do it). Plus, the color options are there...
I bought my RV from this dude...he had just finished his house. 








I like the mix and match of siding. Plus, the house is a masterpiece...lol


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## Elevenpoint (Nov 17, 2009)

Fishindude said:


> Wow !
> Those are some nasty roof conditions, assume you are in rain forest type area of pacific northwest?
> 
> It's obvious you are a "metal roofer" by choice and prefer and promote this product. I agree with and understand all of the benefits, but it sounds like there are drastic regional difference between our locations.
> ...


I have about 23 years now on a standard 3 tab roof but it will be replaced with metal soon.
Out here all that's used is the pole barn metal.


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## bobp (Mar 4, 2014)

i vote metal.... the warranty on either is beyond worrying about. you'll never survive the small print exclusions.....AND the likely hood of you still having the warranty paper work, and them still being in business are slim as well

On the last house we build i bought '2nds'... they had bought out a vendor up north that had been selling 40yr metal....the supply was limited and un match-able by they're first quality metal because the colors were a bit different. It came with the 40yr paperwork but no actual warranty, and was HALF the cost per square....

i figured for half the cost id risk the color issue if i decided to remove a sheet later and replace it... 

metal is a better option for many reasons... but shop around... maybe you can stumble across a deal on canceled order material etc?


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## Dave S. (Jul 5, 2006)

elevenpoint said:


> Any shingle warranty is prorated, you don't get a full replacement after 20 years. Metal warranty is no different. You will not see hardly any metal roofs on a high end home anywhere. They both have there place but metal is a country thing.


I disagree. Many very high end houses have metal, especially copper. Search for Architect Hugh Newell Jacobson. His houses are certainly very high end. There is one about 15 minutes from me.

I am putting a snap lock standing seam roof on a barn right now. I don't have the numbers for the material, but it goes up quite fast. I would go metal over shingles any day. I don't think we can have more than one layer of shingles in MA, so if you have to strip anyway, then it sort of levels the field in a re-roofing situation.


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## Yowsa (May 24, 2016)

It's pretty much a no-brainer here in the windy great wide open. Anyone with a shingled roof gets to spend a lot of quality time and money doing repairs, over and over...

My Pro-Panel roof is 20+ years old. I'm up there a couple times a year, starting up and shutting down my swamp cooler, so I always do an inspection. Never a problem.


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## joebill (Mar 2, 2013)

I built my new house with metal roof about 8 years ago, and no regrets, but I used 2x4 purlin, screws going right into it, no sheathing.

A large building hereabouts got built with chipboard sheathing, metal roof screwed right into it, and the whole roof came off in a big windstorm. Solid wood is much better.

A friend came and told me about getting a new metal roof on his porch, and the guys brought the stack of metal and piled it on a pair of sawhorses and PREDRILLED the holes for the screws with a drill bit to make it "easier". Again, screws into chipboard, big wind, byebye roof. YMMV, but you can strip those screws when going into chip, but solid wood is....well........solid........Joe


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## moeh1 (Jan 6, 2012)

Metal shingle options are out there, here's a few. Looks nice for a very long time, goes up quick and the one I used interlock, so wind isn't an issue.

https://www.classicmetalroofingsystems.com/product-info/styles/rustic-shingle/
http://www.decra.com/
https://www.tamko.com/ResidentialRoofing/SteelShingles/MetalWorksStoneCrestSlate


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

*A large building hereabouts got built with chipboard sheathing, metal roof screwed right into it, and the whole roof came off in a big windstorm. Solid wood is much better.*

Nothing wrong with this concept, it just wasn't properly engineered. Screws and the substrate they are screwed into will only handle so much "pull out load".  Depending upon wind loads, etc. in a particular area, all of this can be figured out. In the case above it could have been the wrong type of decking, wrong screws, not enough screws, screws improperly located, screws improperly torqued, etc., etc. 

Pre-drilling sheets is also a common practice and there is nothing wrong with this. The primary purpose is so that you get your screws uniformly spaced, so that everything is in line and pleasing to the eye.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

joebill said:


> I built my new house with metal roof about 8 years ago, and no regrets, but I used 2x4 purlin, screws going right into it, no sheathing.
> 
> A large building hereabouts got built with chipboard sheathing, metal roof screwed right into it, and the whole roof came off in a big windstorm. Solid wood is much better.
> 
> A friend came and told me about getting a new metal roof on his porch, and the guys brought the stack of metal and piled it on a pair of sawhorses and PREDRILLED the holes for the screws with a drill bit to make it "easier". Again, screws into chipboard, big wind, byebye roof. YMMV, but you can strip those screws when going into chip, but solid wood is....well........solid........Joe


Did the OSB come off with the metal roof, or just the metal roof came off? 
I don't use OSB period. OSB was developed because we were running out of big logs to peel. So, what to do? Well, we have plenty of smaller trees, lets see if we can use the chips, glue and press them together. Technically, OSB is close to plywood in most engineering metrics. However, OSB soaks up water like a sponge, and given it's texture, is a mold magnet up here. Sure, it lays flat, easy to work with, but I don't mind the few extra minutes fussing with plywood. On the big contractor site, OSB and plywood have been discussed plenty (with plenty of rancor). I could ramble on about it till the end of time...lol
Up here we are tightening our nail spacing requirements for sheathing, given we are near an active seismic zone. Used to be that framers did a 6" nail spacing on perimeter of sheathing, and 12" spacing on interior sections of sheathing. I think we are now down to 3" and 6" respectively. And we use 2" ardox nails (ex. 1/2" ply for roof sheathing). Plus, building inspectors have been very picky about driving depth (head flush with surface). Too many inattentive framers have been over-driving nails, which in some cases, has allowed BI to rip off 4x8 sheathing with one hand. 
Now, for the metal roof, the screws have to poke through the plywood or osb. The hidden fasteners don't need to be pre drilled because the sheet metal has punch lines, and for trim pieces, we use self tapping screws. Albeit, I predrill only for top cap, as I need to hit standing seam...when I try to use a self tap screw for putting on the top cap (screwing into the standing seam of roof), the screw wants to wander off standing seam. 
The trim helps protect edge of roof from uplift, not to mention water ingress. 
According my metal roof fabricator, 2-3' hidden screw spacing is enough...I always like to get extra because I'm just being me. Supposedly, you want a balance. Too many screws and the roof cannot expand and contract properly. My philosophy will always be the more, the merrier. My metal roofs will never fly off...I suppose a tornado could take the building away, but the metal and sheathing will be stuck together as they go on their ride. 

I like to get into chats with my BI about nail science. I don't think he likes these conversations...too many nails in one spot can degrade the lumbers performance, and too little, one has their ---- falling apart. I tell him, if anything, I want the lumber to fail first (not as a result of putting in too many nails, just don't want the 'fasteners' being the weak link). Simpson Strong Tie is pretty good resource for nail type, spacing etc. Although, not a fan of their tendency to plug their product whenever they can.


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

I think the pre-drilling referred to was likely on a nestable screw down roof panel, rather than standing seam. It's a common practice to assure neat screw spacing.

We actually have a pull out testing device to test a screw or other fasteners holding capability into a particular substrate.


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## mreynolds (Jan 1, 2015)

alleyyooper said:


> While cost is a factor and as a lump sum is hard to swallow for some people. But when you average in the cost over the expected life of the roof the steel is hands down the best cost per sq ft on the market.
> 
> then add in the discounts from insurance cost of steel over shingles and that reduces it even more.
> 
> Al


Yep, metal roof discount is 600 bucks a year. Roof is twenty year old. 

That's 12k. Way less than it cost me as I put it on myself. I used to be a roofer until the knees gave out. Now just a carpenter. 

Being a contractor all my life though there are people that just don't have the budget for metal. Some just don't like the looks of it.


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## Laura Zone 5 (Jan 13, 2010)

Can anyone explain to me what this means?
Thanks!!


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## rockyriver (Nov 23, 2014)

looks like an insurance adjusters estimate. 
trying to break down and price each function... 
and i'll bet you can get work done for a lot less than this estimate. 
for each square of roofing.. 
42.14 to take off the old 
10.00 "" because part of your roof is steep
30.00 extra labor to install on the steep portion 
175. cost of shingles for area to be replaced (plus tax)
14. extra labor because installation work is "way high"

4. extra cost to take off shingles because rooing work is way above ground 
434. to pay for dumpster to collect shingles they take off. 
1.29 per length of "edge" for material and install to keep storm from blowing under shingles.
.63 plus 6.63 to take off and put back a new ridge vent.. to let the hot air out of your attic. 

all of these numbers are added together for the total for your roof... plus o and p standing for contractor overhead and profit.. 
in my area the roofers would be grinning ear to ear to get this job. 
you need to smile at your adjuster and say thank you. then write a letter to his company about how professional and polite he was. even if he was a slovenly crude individual!! 

and I join the folks on here that are voting for metal roofs... see how much extra a metal roof would cost. in your case it might not be much!! 


9 + 213. to remove flashing around 2 chimneys and install new times 2


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## Fishindude (May 19, 2015)

It's really a pretty nice and professional breakdown the way that is all itemized.
Price doesn't seem crazy to me, it's about what I paid for tear off & re-roof similar size home. Get another quote if you are uncomfortable with this one.


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## Laura Zone 5 (Jan 13, 2010)

I asked how much more a metal roof would be and here is the response:

It would increase the cost approx. 35%. It all depends on what you pick, as far as gauge standing seam etc.


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## melli (May 7, 2016)

Laura Zone 5 said:


> I asked how much more a metal roof would be and here is the response:
> 
> It would increase the cost approx. 35%. It all depends on what you pick, as far as gauge standing seam etc.


Sounds very reasonable (assuming cost over shingle). Would recommend standing seam hidden fastener metal roof with PVDF resin coating. A butyl based undercoating like blueskin. As far as gauge, the smaller the number the better. 24-26g for hail prone areas. 
Detailing is so important...drip edge, side and top caps...and low slope top caps with rain guards or top cap fold over. Proper metal rubber roof boots for vent stack and mast (see if they can align those, so they miss the standing seam). And no wimpy valley flashing (4ft wide). Done right, all you have to do for maintenance, is admire it.


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## M5farm (Jan 14, 2014)

Laura Zone 5 said:


> Can anyone explain to me what this means?
> Thanks!!




I can you Ball Park prices on your material cost Or what it should cost. If this contractor is not marking up material he needs to learn how to buy better.

These prices are what I would charge a cash customer here. 

25Yr 3 tab shingles 55.00 a sq 
15# felt 14.50 a roll 4sq roll 
Ice and water 49.50 a roll 200sqft per roll 
shingle over ridge vent 10.00 a 4' piece 2.50 a lf 


If you want metal prices Ill be glad to provide that.


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## mreynolds (Jan 1, 2015)

M5farm said:


> I can you Ball Park prices on your material cost Or what it should cost. If this contractor is not marking up material he needs to learn how to buy better.
> 
> These prices are what I would charge a cash customer here.
> 
> ...


What I was thinking too. Here, 25 year three tab is 50 a sq. 


Laura, you can go to a close by metal store and ask for contractors to give you quotes.


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

How does a steel roof rate for fire protection? It seems like it would be much better than shingles or shake roofs.


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## SouthernGemini (Mar 31, 2015)

jwal10 said:


> Standing seam metal. Also much better on flatter roofs. Firemen now have diamond chain on their chain saws and diamond blade saws, both will go right through metal roofs, actually easier than 2-3 layers of comp roof. One problem is they have to be vented more to get the heat out, it does hold it in longer because it doesn't self vent (burn through) as quickly. 1/2" 5 ply plywood, heavy felt and the roofing. Hail doesn't damage it as bad because it sets flat to the plywood underlayment. Because of the way it locks together and using the right fasteners it stays put in many hurricanes....James


I lost 60% of my roof on the West side during Hurrincane Katrina and I asked my neighbor who was a roofer in earlier days what kind of roof he would choose. I have roughly a 5/12 pitch which is about middle of the road. I had not heard of standing seam but I researched the heck out of it.  I chose a white 12 inch standing seam (also called interlocking seam down here). The narrower the sheet, the more screws per foot across you can have. I went overkill on my little 1,000 sq ft house getting 12 inch wide panels but 16 inch would have been fine. No screws are exposed on the roof except at the top for the ridge cap and at the bottom to secure the panels to the bottom of the roof so that high side winds don't 'peel it up'. The seam interlocks like a ziploc bag and it was easy to install myself b/c getting decent help down here for a reasonable price after Katrina was not possible. I would start at the bottom, walking my way up and pushing the seam down with my foot. At the top it would snap and lock. It was NOT going to just come apart.

I tried to find a decent picture to post but I don't have one on my work computer. I can try to post some this weekend. Since then I added standing seam to my carport and to my patio cover. Overkill. It is not overrated.


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## 7thswan (Nov 18, 2008)

fishhead said:


> How does a steel roof rate for fire protection? It seems like it would be much better than shingles or shake roofs.


I went with steel for that reason. We have a woodburner and a wood cookstove.
Our house insurance was informed we now have a steel roof and recived a 10% discount.


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## Steve_S (Feb 25, 2015)

Metal Roofs lower home insurance in most fire zones... there is good reasons for that and remember, insurance companies never give away anything for free, so lower rates are always welcome.

I haven't seen it mentioned, but are you aware that in the States you can get Tin Sheets which are CAMMO ! http://www.gulfcoastsupply.com/metal-roofing-discount-prices/ is just ONE Company offering Camo Tin, even Menards has it @ http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...44448477383-c-5717.htm?tid=924412494343989451


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## carolpalmer (Jul 19, 2016)

Generally metal roofs are often lighter than asphalt shingles, weighing about 1.5 pounds per square foot, while asphalt shingles 2-4 pounds per square foot. According to concrete tile roofing company, metal is long-lasting, good at keeping home cool and holds up well in most weather conditions, though shingles are the most popular for their easier and cheaper installation. Check few custom roof installations I found online http://www.rooflines.com/products/custom-roof-installation/. But one advantage of metal roofing is that due to the light feature of metals they can be installed over existing roofing without adding too much weight to the structure.


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

It looks like it would be almost mandatory to have steel roofs in the west where fires are so devastating.


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