# Norwood Portable chainsaw mill



## PineCreek Ranch (Sep 14, 2012)

Does anyone know about this mill?

Norwood Website


----------



## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

My first mill was similar, a Granberg Alaskan. Here's the deal about chainsaw mills....they are great for beams....with the Granberg, you could cut any length you wanted subject to what the log would yield. Also, 2x lumber wasn't "too bad".....but forget much 1x lumber....just WAY too slow, and you lose a lot to saw kerf. 

They are hot, noisey, labor intensive, take a LARGE chainsaw ( if you plan on doing much ) and should be reserved for those instances where a regular mill won't work, or you have to haul the mill into where the log lays ( real advantage if you can't skid the log out ).

So, understand what you're getting into before you buy one.


----------



## PineCreek Ranch (Sep 14, 2012)

thank you, that is what I was looking for. I am just a little tight on money. I have several trees on my property that I need to cut down, I also have a lot of wood fence to build.... I figured use the lumber rather than buying lumber. 
What is the normal cost to have someone come out and use their sawmill? I wonder if it would be cheaper to buy a mill than hire someone?

Thanks again


----------



## TnAndy (Sep 15, 2005)

Honestly, for $1000 bucks, I'd have somebody come mill. BUT REMEMBER, even then, you'll have to have a way to MOVE (skid) the logs out to a pile where the miller can load them on his mill. That is one BIG advantage of chain mills......you mill it right where the tree fell if you want.

OR I'd look seriously at the Granberg mill.....they are less than 200 bucks. I certainly don't see 800 bucks difference in the Norwood and the Grandberg.....all I see is a handle so you don't have to get "right down" on the saw and it uses a ladder for the track. Big deal..... The Granberg uses a 2x8 or 2x10 on top the log for the first cut, then you use the now flat part of the log as your guide. 

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=G777

With a really LONG log you want a single beam out of ( I put a 36' 8x10 as the center beam of barn) you measure up from the log center, sink a couple 8p nails in the log, go to the other end, do the same thing, then run a string line down the tops of the nails, and put a pair of nails about every foot. This allows you to slide a short ( like 8-10') board along the nail tops for your guide board. You simply drop the saw bar below the nails, and cut your first slab off the log....which is the exact same from the center of the log on both ends.

Doing this, you can cut HUGE, LONG beams you'd never get off any sawmill.

And the cut on the wood is surprisingly smooth....you'd think a chainsaw cut would be rough as the dickens, but it's actually smoother than a lot of sawmills !

*Edit:* Viewed the video, and see the now use a couple of 2x4's with some kind of aluminum guide block you temporarily nail in the end of the log......that's changed from the direction for my era mill, which was about 30 years ago. But I see on the bigger version, like the 30", they sell an "aluminum rail kit"....and guess what......a 2x10 or 2x12 works EXACTLY the same as their pricey aluminum rail kit....ahahahahaaa


----------



## dirtman (Sep 15, 2011)

I also have an Alaska MKIII chainsaw mill I bought a couple of years ago. I have only used it to cut a couple of large beams and was satisfied with the end result. I only used the regular chain on my saw and wonder if anyone has used a ripping chain and if so was it worth the money?


----------



## Travis in Louisiana (May 14, 2002)

I built a homemade "Alasken Chainsaw Mill" to use on my then McCulloch Timber Bear chainsaw. If I remember right, I bought a 30 inch bar and chain for it. I had a popular tree down in the yard, in five foot lengths. I would cut about a 2 inch slab. It would take ten to fifteen minutes per slab and I would use a tank of gas. Hot, noisey, dusty on me and the saw. The saw was hot as a firecracker also. My saw was probably too small, and the chain was probably not sharpened perfectly. I cut several 5 foot logs and had enough lumber to make one or two baby bed/cradles for my kids. I still have some of the wood. I still have the homemade mill, but if I use it again, I will get a larger chainsaw. I also sharpen my chains way better now. Also, the chain was a "ripping" chain. I think the difference between a ripping chain and a crosscut chain is there is less cutting teeth on a ripping chain, but correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## brushhippie (Jul 12, 2011)

dirtman said:


> I also have an Alaska MKIII chainsaw mill I bought a couple of years ago. I have only used it to cut a couple of large beams and was satisfied with the end result. I only used the regular chain on my saw and wonder if anyone has used a ripping chain and if so was it worth the money?


I too use the standard yellow band Stihl chain, had a long talk with the guy at the shop and the way I understand it the skip tooth chain is to keep your rpms up when ripping...I dont have a problem with rpms. I have been free hand ripping and I think I can put together some kind of guide with a 2x and piece of channel.


----------



## PineCreek Ranch (Sep 14, 2012)

I think that I keep going back and forth to a chain mill or a band mill. I have about 1/2 mile of fence to run. I have enough trees on my property to cut it myself(it will take a while) but other than the 4x4s for the post I will be cutting 1x6s.


----------



## Post_Oakie (Aug 20, 2012)

I wouldn't chain saw mill with less than an 85 cc saw-- bigger if you are cutting more than 14" diameter logs. There are two things to look for in a ripping chain. A skip tooth chain is more effective in clearing out chips between the cutting teeth, which helps cut straighter and smoother as well as keeping the RPMs up. The teeth are typically ground at a 10 degree angle, which makes them more aggressive and smoother cutting. I use one with a 48" bar to cut the big stuff that won't fit on my band mill. The Norwood design keeps the operator away from the noise and fumes of the chain saw, and cuts as straight as the ladder you use as a guide.

With a half mile of fence to build, I'd seriously consider hiring a portable sawmill. Check the resources section of ForestryForum to find one in your area. Once you get started with sawmills, you will want to get one of your own.


----------



## francismilker (Jan 12, 2006)

I don't personally own one but have two differents friends that do. Both of them give a consumer report of, "only relavant for cutting long beams that you can't get on a mill deck." As far as making boards go, they both say that buy the time you invest the labor into making the board and the time it takes to plane the saw marks out of it, you'd be better off going to the lumber yard and buying your own. 

One of them bought his with the intention of flattening two sides of the pines he was using for his cabin to cut down on the knotching and chinking. He said it was just too much trouble to set it up on each individual log.


----------



## texican (Oct 4, 2003)

Unless you have a large cc chainsaw right now, I'd look at an entry level bandsaw... about the same price. I looked at chainsaw mills and realized the saw (larger than what I have already) would be close to 800$, and that's been years ago. You can get an LT-10 from woodmizer, or another 'starter' bandsaw, use it, sell it, and lose little in the transaction. Better yet, buy used, IF you can find one (which substantiates the 'they resell fast' rule), use it, cut everything you need, and resell on craigslist...

Running a chainsaw for just three or four hours kills my back.... 

of course, any mill beats no mill.... I have done some hewing with axe and broadaxe and that is real work!!!


----------

