# Capping propane line?



## MN Mom (May 19, 2003)

We have decided to switch to an electric stove/oven.

first I have to remove the propane one. There is no shut off valve for the stove. 

I am guessing my best approach is to shut off the valve at the tank. Run the burner on the stove top till line is empty. remove line from T on main line and put a cap on T. 

NOW my questions are: 
Do I use pipe tape on the T threads before I put cap on or is there something better?

When I turn the propane back on do I need to bleed the line or will the furnance do that itself when it tries to ignite? Dryer and furnance have no pilots on them.

Thanks


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## tyusclan (Jan 1, 2005)

Use Tru-Blu or some other anti-vibration pipe thread compound if it's hard black pipe. If it's a flare fitting on copper pipe, don't use anything. When you turn the gas back on be sure to test the cap with soapy water to make sure it isn't leaking.

The lines will bleed themselves out, but it may take several tries lighting the furnace and/or dryer to push all the air out of the lines.

You can crack the fittings at the appliance until you smell the gas. Give it a little while to dissipate all the gas, and then light it. That'll save you a little time.


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## Yankee1 (Dec 17, 2003)

Do not cap off the "T" get a coupling and remove the "T"


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

> Do not cap off the "T" get a coupling and remove the "T"


That's what I'd do, flare fittings do not need pipe dope or tape (can you use tape on gas? You can't on oil burning equip)


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## woodsrunner (Nov 28, 2003)

Ross said:


> That's what I'd do, flare fittings do not need pipe dope or tape (can you use tape on gas? You can't on oil burning equip)


Yes you can tape gas. But, it has to be the yellow gas rated tape. It also costs twice what regular white teflon tape costs. 

Personally I don't understand everyone's facination with tape. It's harder to use correctly than dope and it's much more expensive. It is a little less messy though.


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## OkieDavid (Jan 15, 2007)

Just curious guys, why replace the T with a union? Seems like capping would accomplish the task and make it easier for the next guy to switch back if they wanted? Could be a bias of mine since all I've ever owned is old houses and one thing I "try" to always do when repairing past "shade tree" patches is accomplish two things; 1. Fix it RIGHT and 2. Make it easier on the next poor sap who gets suckered into "remodeling" LOL...


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

A cap might leak (it's just one more opening) and replacing the T with a union ensures the line and existing flares are sound before replacing the old fitting with new. It's not making the task signifigantly more difficult for the next guy, he'll simplely need a new T which will again ensure the flares are not cracked and the line sound. Some things shouldn't be too easy!! Even if the entire copper line is replaced its not that hard to splice in a T.


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## MN Mom (May 19, 2003)

Actually when I moved the stove last night away from the wall I found a shut off valve. I think I might just cap off the valve for now to see if I like the electric stove.

Thanks all


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## tyusclan (Jan 1, 2005)

woodsrunner said:


> Personally I don't understand everyone's facination with tape. It's harder to use correctly than dope and it's much more expensive. It is a little less messy though.


I agree with you. I don't even like to use tape on water pipe. Give me the dope any day.


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## Windy in Kansas (Jun 16, 2002)

Be sure to use leak detector around the cap and especially on the shut off valve itself. They will leak on occasion after being moved about. Test all areas of it that move. 

Kids soap bubbles work pretty well as long as it is not cold. A paint brush, especially a foam one, works well to apply the detector.

Please remember that there is a difference between a coupling (one piece) and a union (three pieces) but both were mentioned about being used.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

True enuf but the packages of couplers are being called unions........ they're not unions of course with two male ends on one piece for the flare nuts to thread on to!! With a shut off I would cap of the shut off valve so there's two blockages before a leak............ do test with liquid at least.......... they do make leak detector goop (Masters) but seems pricey or one check


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## Windy in Kansas (Jun 16, 2002)

Black pipe or copper tubing?

Since the original poster asked about Teflon thread tape I was assuming black pipe hence my answer about coupling and union.


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## MN Mom (May 19, 2003)

Copper tubeing.


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## sugarbush (Jul 15, 2007)

legally you have to have the line pressure tested after doing any modifications. It is to insure that there are no leaks and your gas company will do it. They will not deliver any more gas if its not done and they find out that one of the gas appliances was removed.


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## MN Mom (May 19, 2003)

Just got done with a pressure test from the propane company (the tank ran close to empty).

Cost me $50 and all the guy did was stand there and made sure the tank held pressure.


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## OkieDavid (Jan 15, 2007)

MN Mom said:


> Just got done with a pressure test from the propane company (the tank ran close to empty).
> 
> Cost me $50 and all the guy did was stand there and made sure the tank held pressure.


Had the same thing happen here ONCE. Let the tank run out and before they would fill it, they required a complete inspection and pressure test. $75.00 for NOTHING except to tell me I ran out of propane...Well sheesh, that IS why I called for some propane. I can understand if someone is not familiar with gas service and would LIKE an inspection for their piece of mind but to REQUIRE it is one of those mandated rip offs that really anger me. I own the tank and since that day two things have never happened again-#1. I never let it run completely out and #2. I've never bought from that company again.


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