# Reloading....what exactly do I need??



## oz in SC (May 13, 2002)

I want to reload for my .308 rifle and .38/.357 pistol.

What EXACTLY do I need?

I went and looked at a few reloaders but hav eNO idea what I am looking at. :shrug:


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## Steve L. (Feb 23, 2004)

oz in SC said:


> I want to reload for my .308 rifle and .38/.357 pistol.
> 
> What EXACTLY do I need?
> 
> I went and looked at a few reloaders but hav eNO idea what I am looking at. :shrug:


What aspect of shooting do you want to affect? Do you want to save money, improve performance, shoot more, or just waste time/money (like I do)?


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## oz in SC (May 13, 2002)

Steve L. said:


> What aspect of shooting do you want to affect? Do you want to save money, improve performance, shoot more, or just waste time/money (like I do)?


Save money...I am cheap.

Milsurp .308 is through the roof and is not getting any cheaper.


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

Here's a short list

1. Lyman or Speers or one of the many other reloading manuals.
2. Reloader (RCBS, Lyman, Dillion just to name a few)
3. Dies for the caliber to be reloaded.
4. Powder scale
5. powder trickler
6. either a micrometer or a gauge to check length of shell
7. case/shell trimmer
8. depending on the dies you may need case lube and pad.
9. a good solid work bench to mount the reloader on.

Like I said this is just a short list and I would start with the reloading manuals

This is a list I posted sometime ago in another thread called "What reloading Equipment".


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## oz in SC (May 13, 2002)

Thanks all.


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## bgak47 (Sep 4, 2003)

The first thing that you need Oz is some good reloading manuals.Or maybe videos...as they are now on DVDs.After that, the equipment will be fairly obvious. Unless you shoot an awful lot, I doubt that you'll be able to save much on.308 on cost/round. .38/.357 could be different. Aside from the manuals... expect to spend $250-$??? to get started. Good Luck & be Very Careful!


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## Steve L. (Feb 23, 2004)

beowoulf90 said:


> Here's a short list
> 
> 1. Lyman or Speers or one of the many other reloading manuals.
> 2. Reloader (RCBS, Lyman, Dillion just to name a few)
> ...


Good list.

1. Lyman or Speers or one of the many other reloading manuals.
I like Hornaday, myself.
2. Reloader (RCBS, Lyman, Dillion just to name a few)
Check out Lee Precision, too. Iâve used quite a bit of their stuff. Itâs inexpensive, but ok for the casual re-loader.
http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1168371386.3645=/html/index.html
5. powder trickler
You can get by without this, but theyâre sure nice to have. 

Also, 
Primer flipper
Powder funnel



bgak47 said:


> Aside from the manuals... expect to spend $250-$??? to get started.


Yep.



> Unless you shoot an awful lot, I doubt that you'll be able to save much on.308 on cost/round.


Yea, even if you can âroll your ownâ for half the price of factory, youâll have to shoot 600+ rounds to pay for $250 worth of equipment.


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## Haggis (Mar 11, 2004)

Like Oz, I am trying to get by cheaper, so I been buying up the gear for reloading my little "Dollar a Pop" .25-20 wcf. Sometimes I can get cartridges for $.75 a piece, but figuring a fellow could reload them for $.10 each, reloading is a huge savings.

Lee has a starter kit for well under $100, and it has nearly everything a person needs, except the dies.


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

You might want to look at the "Lee Loader", every thing done by hand, but you can reload real cheep as you don't need a press.

Every thing you need is in a box about the size of a pack of smokes. Except the powder, bullets and primers.
I was even able to get one for my .225 win,(odd cal.)

Also a good thing to pack in your BOB bag.
Look them up on the "Lee" site.
http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1168371386.3645=/html/catalog/cleeloader.html

You can use this to get started then decide if you want to go into full presses, better equiptment etc.


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## shadowwalker (Mar 5, 2004)

Oz what Hunter63 said is true. I got them in 300 mag, 30'06, 44mag,223,45acp. It is a slow process, but good enough to get game. And I find it relaxing. All do good for me. I also have a rcbs system for reloading for all my guns which I have used for over 35 years. It is the way to go if loading a few hundred to thousand rounds. but here in tennessee. That much ammo is hard to shoot off at one time with out people showing up. "Looking" around.


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## Haggis (Mar 11, 2004)

I was referring to the Lee Anniversary Reloading Kit. It has a press and a bunch of gear for under $80.

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0000690174


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

Thanks Haggis, I just ordered one of these kits.
I have the 7mm mag, .225 win, .44mag lee loaders, case trimmer and several measuring spoons, and I just had found the regular loading die set for the .225.
Still like these sets as they are only 26.00 bucks.

I had been bidding on several presses, but they go fast, and in some cases for more used than you can get them new, but this was a heel of a deal.


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## PyroDon (Jul 30, 2006)

I use a lee turret press for y 44 ammo and an "orange crusher " for large bottle necked shells .
Id say get the carbide dies nd a good powder scale
the reloading manual is a must


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## bgak47 (Sep 4, 2003)

Haggis... I also reload for some of the older,hard to find calibers like .32/20,.38/40, .455, & .45/70, & you can really save some money on these calibers & provide yourself with a reliable,steady source for these fine old cartridges. I also like to reload them because my guns are getting older & I like to know exactly what I'm shooting in them. That little Lee hand loader is how I got started in reloading & it is handy for a BOB.


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## oz in SC (May 13, 2002)

.308 is running about $220/1000 for Wolf.

Surplus is about $300/1000 for good stuff.

Of course none is actually available from dealers,you are buying it off of an individual.


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## Haggis (Mar 11, 2004)

bgak47 said:


> Haggis... I also reload for some of the older,hard to find calibers like .32/20,.38/40, .455, & .45/70, & you can really save some money on these calibers & provide yourself with a reliable,steady source for these fine old cartridges.


Along that same line, I really don't shoot that much, I'm a meat hunter, not a sport shooter, so reloading for me is more an issue of being able to get a cheaper more steady supply of cartridges for my .25-20 wcf, my .45-70 govt., and even my .444 Marlin. As you say, some of these cartridges are hard to find or have seasonal runs, all of which makes them spendy to buy.


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

I would go to the local gunshop to buy the reloading manuals, but for the actual equipment I would check out the auctions. I've bought many reloading presses from the local auction for pennies on the dollar. I presently have 2 RCBS single stage presses up and running and 3 MEC (2 single stage and 1 progressive) shotshell reloading presses up and running. Now i've been doing this for awhile and have had time to accumalate everything I've needed, but I've bought complete set-up's for $100 or so at auction. Just remember Safety is the first thing....if it seems unsafe don't do it! 

Now I'm looking for a MEC in .410 Ga (for my T/C Contender pistol)


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## oz in SC (May 13, 2002)

Okay I am already lost.

What is single stage?

What is progressive?


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

oz in SC said:


> Okay I am already lost.
> 
> What is single stage?
> 
> What is progressive?


A single stage press only does basicly one function at a time on one shell/case.
A progressive press handles a few cases/shells (depends on the brand, normally about 4 to 6 cases/shells) and does multible functions at a time for example on a MEC 650 progressive shotshell reloader one pull of the handle does the following.; 
removes the old prime, resizes the shell this is for one shell
primes another shell
loads powder and wad on another shell
adds shot
crimps the end of another shell..

Hope that helps.


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## bgak47 (Sep 4, 2003)

Look for those DVDs Oz. Reloading is complicated & can't be learned in a day or a week. Study! & Be Safe!


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

bgak47 said:


> Look for those DVDs Oz. Reloading is complicated & can't be learned in a day or a week. Study! & Be Safe!



I'll second that!!! 
Read all you can and follow the safety rules, because you can get seriously hurt or hurt others if you don't follow the safety rules. Never!! start with max loads.


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## jamesdel (Mar 21, 2006)

yep like they always told me "there are old reloaderand there are bold reloaders. But there are no old bold reloaders. " Aint it the truth ! Most of the main reloading companys sell kits with everything you need less dies. That would be the way I would go. I have an old Pacfic and an old RCBS Rock chucker. they will all work for ya just depends what you want to spend.
Jim


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## reluctantpatriot (Mar 9, 2003)

Read the reloading manuals before you make your first cartridge and you will be fine. Take your time, measure the powder properly by weight and be careful when you seat the primers and you will be fine.

Try the Lee Anniversary kit, a set of reloading dies for your cartridge and buy your brass, primers, powder and bullets and take your time while having fun.

If you want something smaller, Lee makes a hand press kit that will work pretty well for everything short of some of the larger magnum rifle cartridges, but that is due to needing a bit more leverage to resize them.

I use CCI primers, Hornady and Remington bullets (depending on cartridge and intended use), Winchester brass or reload fired brass from commercially loaded ammo and Hodgdon powders, generally H4895 for rifle rounds as it is very tolerant of light loads. That specific powder can be downloaded up to 60 percent of the maximum listed load in the Hodgdon manual, but follow the info in the manual.

I reload for several cartridges and generally obtain the best accuracy loading H4895 between 85 and 97 percent of maximum loading, depending on the firearm and component combination.

Try the Lee and Hornady manuals together for basic instructions and there are firearms magazines that regularly have articles on reloading. You can also look up info on the internet for reloading information as well. Trust the printed manuals, but look up the info on resizing cases and loading bullets, depriming/repriming the cases.

Do a Google search and you will find what you need.


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## tamarackreg (Mar 13, 2006)

I got started loading .44 mag about 15 years ago with a Lee Challenger "O" frame press kit. It came with dies and has been money very well spent. At that time I also got a loading block, calipers, and a powder scale. The loading block keeps your shells organized and upright as you load, two of them might be handy at times. Cheap dial calipers will work to measure case and cartridge lengths. I got a beam scale but nowdays digital is the way to go. Midway,(www.midwayusa.com) has scales for about $30, look for your blocks and calipers there too. 
I've mounted my loader several places. If you don't have a dedicated area you can mount it on a piece of 2x12 about 2 feet long and clamp it most anywhere. I'm not familiar with rifle loading but make sure your pistol dies are carbide, you won't have to lube cases and they will never stick.
There is a lot of info out there on loading but never exceed max loads listed in your manuals and also don't go below minimum loads as well. The powder companies have charts available online. Internet sites are a valuable source of info and will greatly shorten your learning curve (try www.handloads.com ) but verify ALL loads with a manual.
By loading your own ammo you will be able to tune your ammo to your guns for accuracy and performance beyond that of premium factory rounds at a fraction of the cost.
Good luck and have fun. BTW I just bought a set of Lee .38 special dies (they do .357 mag. too) and have just begun experimentation with that caliber.


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## Clifford (Aug 14, 2004)

hunter63 said:


> You might want to look at the "Lee Loader", every thing done by hand, but you can reload real cheep as you don't need a press.


This is what I started reloading with during my days in Montana. Still have them in .44 and .22-250.

Now I have an RCBS rock chucker press and related equipment. I've always liked making my own - be it food or bullets...


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## hunter63 (Jan 4, 2005)

You guys cost me some money.
My Anniversary Reloading kit came Sat.
Good deal, couldn't pass it up.

Been a while since I was using my Lee hand Loader, so I started digging out my stuff.

Had gotten a RCBS dies for my .225 on eBay a while back, so was looking for a press, RCBS rock chucker press, was what I was looking at. 
Guess everyone was needin' one also, 'cause the bidding was tough.

Also found a set of dies for the .223 that I had picked up awhile back.(used a .224dia bullet same as the .225).
So between what I had, and the kit, sould be back in production soon.

BTW, the new manual that came with the kit didn't have loads for the .225 win, so I glad I still have my old one.


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

hunter63 said:


> BTW, the new manual that came with the kit didn't have loads for the .225 win, so I glad I still have my old one.


My old reloading manuals are just as valid today as they were when I got them. The only difference is the older manuals don't have the newer bullets in them, but still have the basic bullets.


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## reluctantpatriot (Mar 9, 2003)

beowoulf90 said:


> My old reloading manuals are just as valid today as they were when I got them. The only difference is the older manuals don't have the newer bullets in them, but still have the basic bullets.


Due to changes in bullet, primer and cartridge casing design and specifications and improvements or deletions in smokeless powder formulations it is recommended that one have the most current manual possible if one uses components of current manufacture. Maximum pressure calculations have changed over time as more precise and accurate measuring equipment has been produced, for example, and a load that may have been considered safe, say 20, 30, 40 or 50 years ago may now be considered in excess of safe pressure limit or changes in components may change the starting and maximum powder charge quantities.

I personally would only use an old manual if I obtained a quantity of a now discontinued or obsolete smokeless powder that is no longer listed in a current manual. Even then, I would only use it to get an approximate relationship between that powder and one that is still currently produced to see if I might need to change the starting load. Granted, I rarely load above 95 percent of the maximum do not exceed load listed in my manuals.

A person can do as they like, but I stay on the conservative, safe side of handloading especially since I enjoy shooting older military surplus firearms that were designed with lower maximum chamber pressures than are standard for the same or similar cartridges commercially loaded today.

This is simply my opinion and I am satisfied with my results. I leave it to each person to decide what they wish to do.


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## woodsrunner (Nov 28, 2003)

I picked up a Lee press over ten years ago used in a local gunshop. Think I paid $20 for it, another $10.00 for a decent used scale, a set of dies for another $20 and I was up and running. I've since spent hundreds more and gotten every penny of what I spent back. My big game rifles are a 30/40 krag and an old Marlin 32/40. If I'm lucky I can find factory loaded 32/40's for about $45.00 a box at gunshows. If I go to the same gunshow and buy gas checked bullets from an old time caster, I can reload a box of 32/40's for about $4.00. Even less if I dig out my lead pot and cast my own.

I've found that putting the word out will get alot of 38/357 components for free. Lot's of old timers around here loaded them and don't shoot much anymore. The 38/357 has fallen by the wayside in favor of the 9mm and 40 S&W autoloaders in this area.

My advice is get the Lyman book and read it. The others can come later, the Lyman book has the best instructions as far as I'm concerned. Then buy yourself a used single stage press. Find someone who has gone to a digital scale and buy thier old non digital scale off of them. The single stage press is slower than a progressive, but, the mistakes tend to be on a smaller scale when you make them. If it turns out to be something you enjoy, then start upgrading your equipment.


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## bgak47 (Sep 4, 2003)

I mostly reload for my older guns. For my newer guns I buy commercial ammo. I've been shooting quite a bit of .22mag lately. At around $7/box of 50 rounds I'm looking at buying a 1,000 round lot. I'll have to shop around.


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## beowoulf90 (Jan 13, 2004)

reluctantpatriot said:


> Due to changes in bullet, primer and cartridge casing design and specifications and improvements or deletions in smokeless powder formulations it is recommended that one have the most current manual possible if one uses components of current manufacture. Maximum pressure calculations have changed over time as more precise and accurate measuring equipment has been produced, for example, and a load that may have been considered safe, say 20, 30, 40 or 50 years ago may now be considered in excess of safe pressure limit or changes in components may change the starting and maximum powder charge quantities.
> 
> I personally would only use an old manual if I obtained a quantity of a now discontinued or obsolete smokeless powder that is no longer listed in a current manual. Even then, I would only use it to get an approximate relationship between that powder and one that is still currently produced to see if I might need to change the starting load. Granted, I rarely load above 95 percent of the maximum do not exceed load listed in my manuals.
> 
> ...



Yes you are correct to a point. I use only the components listed in each load. I get alot of the bullets from auctions and do have bullets and primers that have been discontinued. I also get full sealed cans of powder on occassion. (Warning never use a can of powder bought at auction etc. that has been opened unless you know exactly what is in it. The powder inside may not be what the label says) Like you I don't load above 95% of max load often. In my .357's a hot pistol load works wonders in my rifle, this way I never have to worry about over loading the pistols. 
Just to clear it up I do have both old and new manuals. I use the older manuals for the older componets.
All I can say for new reloaders is read all you can and stay safe.


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## tamarackreg (Mar 13, 2006)

Last night I loaded up 205 .44 special catridges (all of my brass) with the Lee kit I mentioned earlier. Most of my equipment boxes still have the price tag on them and all of the equipment used to do it cost less than $120 including the Lee Auto Disk powder measure. Rounding up, each primer cost $.02, powder for each shell cost $.02, each bullet cost $.07 including shipping, each shell cost $.11. Total cost - $22.50. These shell are a 240 gr hard cast lead semi wadcutter at appx. 1050 fps, it is custom made for my gun and shoots groups under 3" @ 50 yards w/ open sights on a 4" barrel.
The equivalent factory load from Buffalo Bore at Midway costs $58 per box of 50. Cost for 200 non-custom shells - $232 plus shipping. 
All my equipment paid for itself (agian) in one night!


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