# Sticky  Sewing and Quilting hints and tips



## Ardie/WI

I thought it might be fun and informative to start a thread about sewing hints and shortcuts.

Perhaps Karen could make it a "sticky" so we don't lose them.

Mine is about those cutting mats. Try to store them flat as, with time and heat, any folds can become permanent. I keep mine behind a large chest of drawers.

Also, when I'm done sewing for the day, I straighten up the room and, if I have time, I sweep. It's nicer to be able to come back to the room without dealing with a messy work area.

Before I leave the room, I always turn around and check that the iron is unplugged!


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## notenoughtime

I found this trick many years ago, sew buttons on work shirts with dental floss and they will never come off again. I am anxious to see more sewing hints I just love quick fixes. I thought of another one, they have the name badge clips with the retractable line (the kind some use for work so you can swipe at work) and it has a tab with a snap for the badge attach. Use this for your small scissors for hand work you'll always keep track of your scissors. My aunt was using this for her scissors, I thought it was a handy thing to do.:rock:


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## menollyrj

Don't let the kids use your good scissors to cut snowflakes.

Rotary cutters ROCK!!

If you do a lot of quilting, invest in the 12 1/2", 9", & 6" plastic squares for squaring up your blocks. They wonderful!

A seam ripper makes a nice alternative to scissors if you are taking sewing with you on a trip (precut fabric, of course). And people love to talk to you when you are sewing in an airport... 

And this one is my favorite, from QuiltersCache... Use a SCANT 1/4" seam (just a smitch less than 1/4") because you have to account for fabric "lost" in the fold of the seam. If you sew an exact 1/4" seam, you will come up short on your quilt square's final measurements.

-Joy


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## AngieM2

When hand sewing and using double thread, knot each end separately and the strands will not tangle as easily.

Don't have thread longer than 18" as you will have tangles with longer (unless you are incredibly lucky).

You can use typing paper, coffee filters, regular interfacing to back special stitches with decorative sewing or with embroidery machine designs. Be sure to carefully tear or cut closely the backing off when done.

A disappearing ink pen, or water dissappearing ink pen is great when marking hems, where to put pockets, or any other measurment lines. 

Angie


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## Ardie/WI

AngieM2 said:


> When hand sewing and using double thread, knot each end separately and the strands will not tangle as easily.
> 
> Don't have thread longer than 18" as you will have tangles with longer (unless you are incredibly lucky).
> 
> You can use typing paper, coffee filters, regular interfacing to back special stitches with decorative sewing or with embroidery machine designs. Be sure to carefully tear or cut closely the backing off when done.
> 
> A disappearing ink pen, or water dissappearing ink pen is great when marking hems, where to put pockets, or any other measurment lines.
> 
> Angie


I absolutely love those pens but when my DD and I were making her wedding dress we were warned about them.

We were told that in some cases the disappeared marks show back up in the sunlight. Angie, did you ever hear about that?


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## Jaclynne

If your machine doesn't have the feature that lowers the feed dogs, you can tape a *business card* over them while free motion quilting. It helps keep the materials running thru evenly.


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## AngieM2

Ardie - nope never heard about the ink showing back up. Usually I use it in places that will not show once shown over. But I did use the wet to disappear blue ink on recent wedding dress hemming, on the satin under the lace, not the top layer (just in case, ya know).

But so, far, I don't use either very heavily, and mostly use the dissappearing ink, and it's never been a problem (so far, knock on wood).

That is definitely something to keep in mind, in case it becomes true to you.

Angie


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## Ardie/WI

I keep a record of all my sewing projects in a loose-leaf notebook. I take a small 1" by 1 1/2" square and tape it on a sheet of paper. Next to it I record the date, what it is, the pattern name and number, my sewing machine and serger settings, needles and any notes about the garment that I want to remember.

It's wonderful when I want to use the pattern again and when the fabric is similar. All my serger setting are right there. No guessing or experimenting required.

It's fun too! I was reading about things I made a long time ago and also notes about my DD's wedding dress. I also came upon notes I made when makeing Roger a bathrobe. I had recorded that my DGD, now 10, had been born!


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## Lynn Bodoni

When hand sewing, I frequently use beeswax to lubricate the thread. I've sometimes run my thread over a utility candle as well, when I didn't have beeswax.

I sew a couple of colorful bandannas together to make pillows. I keep one of these by my sewing machine, and toss in the scraps of thread and fabric as I sew. When the pillow is full, I sew it shut, and my cats have a new pillow!


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## CJ

Wonder Tape is one of my favorite "cheater" tools. It's sticky on both sides, and dissolves in water. I love it for holding hems in place before I sew them, necklines, etc.


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## Ardie/WI

When I'm sewing something where I'm using a pattern, I hang all the pattern pieces on a hanger using clips without folding them at all. That way, if I need to check about a marking on the pattern, I don't have to go thorugh a bunch of folded pieces.

If you have cats in the house, hang them up high! Those waving tissue pattern pieces are captivating to cats. (Don't ask me how I know.)


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## ErinP

Your rotary cutter is good for more than just strip quilting. 

The thing I hate most about garment construction is pinning and cutting out the pattern.  A professional seamstress friend thought I was crazy for using scissors to cut out patterns. "Use your rotary!" 
She mashes the pattern down with an acrylic ruler and uses a small rotary to run along the lines of the pattern. 
Slick as a whistle.


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## Terri in WV

For figuring 1/2 square triangles just add 7/8" to the finished size needed and for 1/4 squares add 1 1/4" to the finished size needed.

Keep a magnet handy near your sewing area and use to make a quick "sweep" around to pick up stray pins.

Another one I haven't seen listed-always make a habit of retracting your rotary blade every time you lay it down.

Clean pizza boxes make great project holders.


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## Ardie/WI

I like to interface the upper hem of patchwork pockets and shirt pockets too. It adds a nice crisp look and the pockets don't gap. 

Of course, I don't do that with knits and pockets on sleepwear--too stiff!


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## Ardie/WI

I got this from "501 Sewing Hints" by Nancy Zieman.

For accurate seam allowances, place a lined 3" X 5" index card under the edge of the presser foot. The blue lines are exactly 1/4" apart. Adjust your sewing machine needle using the card as a guide.


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## CJ

Ardie, out all my sewing machine gadgets, this is probably my favorite one, and it's cheap to boot! $11 (Bernina) and I believe Singer makes them as well. I think they'll fit anymachine, they just screw into the base.

I couldn't sew a straight line without it. I have one on my serger as well.


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## Ardie/WI

CJ said:


> Ardie, out all my sewing machine gadgets, this is probably my favorite one, and it's cheap to boot! $11 (Bernina) and I believe Singer makes them as well. I think they'll fit anymachine, they just screw into the base.
> 
> I couldn't sew a straight line without it. I have one on my serger as well.


I had one of those years ago, for my other machine! I wonder if my Pfaff could use one. I will check around.


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## Country Lady

I have a little magnetic seam guide. I think I've had it forever, so there's no way to remember where I bought it. It works good too.


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## AngieM2

I've also heard that several sheets of post-it type notes stuck where you want the seam works well.

Angie


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## Ardie/WI

I tried this stuff but it bothered me for some reason. Maybe I just have to get used to it.

http://aliciasattic.com/store/product26.html


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## Country Lady

This might not be the place to post this, but I'd like to see a thread on the different feet and how they're used. I've sewn all my life, but a regular pressure foot and zipper foot is all I've ever used until recently when I bought a hemmer. When I used that hemming foot, I wondered why I hadn't bought one of those things years ago. I'm really ignorant when it comes to the different feet available today. Too, I don't have a fancy expensive sewing machine. I have a Kenmore that's about 15 years old, but it does all I want or need it to do and runs good.


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## AngieM2

http://www.brother-usa.com/Homesewing/Accessories/AccessoryList.aspx?ACASCID=39&CatID=23

This seems to describe the feet and what they do pretty well.
Hope it helps until someone has the time to make that thread for you. 


Angie


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## Country Lady

AngieM2 said:


> http://www.brother-usa.com/Homesewing/Accessories/AccessoryList.aspx?ACASCID=39&CatID=23
> 
> This seems to describe the feet and what they do pretty well.
> Hope it helps until someone has the time to make that thread for you.
> 
> 
> Angie


Thank you.


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## Ardie/WI

Country Lady said:


> This might not be the place to post this, but I'd like to see a thread on the different feet and how they're used. I've sewn all my life, but a regular pressure foot and zipper foot is all I've ever used until recently when I bought a hemmer. When I used that hemming foot, I wondered why I hadn't bought one of those things years ago. I'm really ignorant when it comes to the different feet available today. Too, I don't have a fancy expensive sewing machine. I have a Kenmore that's about 15 years old, but it does all I want or need it to do and runs good.


I found these fooks today while going through the catalog. They might help you.

http://www.clotilde.com/list.html?criteria=foot+book&x=13&y=14


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## Country Lady

Ardie/WI said:


> I found these fooks today while going through the catalog. They might help you.
> 
> http://www.clotilde.com/list.html?criteria=foot+book&x=13&y=14


Oh yes. I think I'll order the first one and see if it's what I think it will be. Thanks.


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## Ardie/WI

When a pattern says to press under 5/8" (or whatever) I sew a line of machine stitching 5/8" from the edge. It's easy to fold and press following the line. No measuring!


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## CJ

Now that's just brilliant! :bouncy::clap:



Ardie/WI said:


> When a pattern says to press under 5/8" (or whatever) I sew a line of machine stitching 5/8" from the edge. It's easy to fold and press following the line. No measuring!


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## Ardie/WI

My sewing machine has an automatic button hole maker but I still make a sample button hole before making them on a almost finished garment.

I make the sample of the same thickness of fabric as the area where the button hole is going being it two layers of fabric or two and a layer of interfacing.

That way, if it doesn't look right, I don't have to attempt to rip it out of the garment.


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## AngieM2

I always do a sample buttonhole also with same denseness of fabric and interfacing to get it right. I just never believe it will be okay the first time, without a proof buttonhole first.

I've done the sew the line then iron before, it sure helps. 


Also, if a waistband calls for elastic, it's usually that 1" waist elastic. I just really don't like it, so I make two or three channels of stitching and put 1/4 inch elastic thru all two or three channels. This makes a non-rolling waistband. And if you leave the threading opening open, and using two or three elastics, if you want to make it temporarily smaller, just pull the elastics up and tie them. Wear it and then let back out.

Angie


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## Ardie/WI

As you sew, press the seams open OR if the instructions say to press to one side, do it! By ironning seams, you'll find that the item will look more professional when it's finished.


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## chuda

When you are finished sewing take the bobbin and put a rubber band through it. Then loop the ends of the rubber band over the spool of thread. No guessing which color or thread in a bobbin is correct for the spool.


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## Craftyone

Ardie I like your idea .I'm going to try it .

When a pattern says to press under 5/8" (or whatever) I sew a line of machine stitching 5/8" from the edge. It's easy to fold and press following the line. No measuring!


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## Ardie/WI

Craftyone said:


> Ardie I like your idea .I'm going to try it .
> 
> When a pattern says to press under 5/8" (or whatever) I sew a line of machine stitching 5/8" from the edge. It's easy to fold and press following the line. No measuring!


It saves a lot of burned fingers and swearing, I'll tell you!


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## Mrs. Vet

Here are the things that I always do:

Press to set the seam. Then press open. I think that the iron is just as important to sewing as the sewing machine.

Next, clip your excess threads. The ones at the end of the seams. 

If you press and clip, any garment or item made will look more professional.


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## Ardie/WI

I found this in the August/September issue of Sew News Magazine, in an article by Sandra Betzina:

Preserve favortie patterns by pressing them onto fusible interfacing or waxed paper. Place the interfacing sticky side up or waxed paper shiny side up on a pressing surface. Place the pattern wrong side down onver the interfacing or waxed paper. Using a dry iron on a medium setting, press the pattern to the interfacing or waxed paper, working from the middle out. Don't press too close to the pattern outer edges. Trim away the excess interfacing or waxed paper along the pattern cutting line. Secure the pattern edges by pressing around the perimeter of the pattern.


The only question I have is isn't waxed paper shiny on both sides?


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## AngieM2

Last time I looked at waxed paper it is waxed on both sides.

I'd use one sided iron on interfacing, or trace it with that tracing fabrics or lightweight interfacing.

Angie


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## Marcia in MT

I'd always had problems attaching bias binding until I tried this one.

Open the binding and sew it to the front of the project, using meltable thread in the bobbin. Turn the project over and press the binding to the wrong side, just covering the line of bobbin stitching. From the right side, stitch in the ditch. The binding stays tidy and straight, and will be even on both sides.


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## Lynn Bodoni

Ardie/WI said:


> I found this in the August/September issue of Sew News Magazine, in an article by Sandra Betzina:
> 
> Preserve favortie patterns by pressing them onto fusible interfacing or waxed paper. Place the interfacing sticky side up or waxed paper shiny side up on a pressing surface. Place the pattern wrong side down onver the interfacing or waxed paper. Using a dry iron on a medium setting, press the pattern to the interfacing or waxed paper, working from the middle out. Don't press too close to the pattern outer edges. Trim away the excess interfacing or waxed paper along the pattern cutting line. Secure the pattern edges by pressing around the perimeter of the pattern.
> 
> 
> The only question I have is isn't waxed paper shiny on both sides?


 I imagine that they are really talking about freezer paper, which is shiny on one side. Freezer paper has either plastic or wax (can't remember which), and is a great help in sewing and quilting.

I've made patterns out of kraft paper, which I got by opening up grocery paper bags. This was before I switched to mostly using reusable cloth bags.

In the old days, people would make patterns out of the cheapest muslin. Some people still use muslin, as the pattern can be pinned together and tried on, and it's easier to mark adjustments on it.


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## nana9

I put 2 rubber door stops under the back of my free standing sewing machine. This helps to make it eaiser to see what I'm doing and also keeps my shoulders and neck from hurting.


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## Lynn Bodoni

I bought a rubber mat that's supposed to go in the sink and cushion the dishes while you wash them. I cut a piece off of it, the size of my sewing machine foot pedal, and use it under my pedal. Now that pedal doesn't slip, slide, and walk across my linoleum floor!


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## sewing nana

Copy patterns. Alot of the patterns are different sizes. I use The heavy milled plastic you can get on a roll at Home Depot or Lowes. Trace the sizes I need. Much easier, then I don't have to try and follow the lines.


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## Chickadeedee

I've found one of the scalpel-type seam rippers to be invaluable. I bought one from Clotilde's. It's just sharper than the other type.


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## Ruby

If you are sewing something that needs the pattern to be matched at the seams, especially curtains or bed covers, use the double sided tape. I fold one panel down along the seam line then match it with the other panel. Use the double sided tape to tape the two together just outside the seam line (between the seamline and the edge). Sew together along the pressed fold and then remove the tape. Saves lots of ripping out when you get fabric that is hard to match.


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## rivenoak

On my sewing scissors, I actually wrote FABRIC ONLY on the flat part of the blade to keep my DH from using them. It works. 
Well, that, and the handles are pink.


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## Ardie/WI

I keep a roll of masking tape in the sewing room!

It's great for picking up bits of thread when I'm ripping out a seam. Just wrap it around your hand sticky side out and pat the thread away.

It's also good for picking up cat hair on a sewing project that a cat has decided to use it as a bed. :viking:


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## AngieM2

Look.up. Wendy. She does amazing cross stitch pieces and can at least probably lead you in the right direction.


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## stef

Lynn Bodoni said:


> I bought a rubber mat that's supposed to go in the sink and cushion the dishes while you wash them. I cut a piece off of it, the size of my sewing machine foot pedal, and use it under my pedal. Now that pedal doesn't slip, slide, and walk across my linoleum floor!


I know this is an old thread, but this is one tip I'm gonna remember!


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## emilyrayne

Country Lady said:


> This might not be the place to post this, but I'd like to see a thread on the different feet and how they're used. I've sewn all my life, but a regular pressure foot and zipper foot is all I've ever used until recently when I bought a hemmer. When I used that hemming foot, I wondered why I hadn't bought one of those things years ago. I'm really ignorant when it comes to the different feet available today. Too, I don't have a fancy expensive sewing machine. I have a Kenmore that's about 15 years old, but it does all I want or need it to do and runs good.


I completely agree! I'm just learning to sew. There are a lot of things that I don't know, and would LOVE to!


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## Belfrybat

Videos on how to use different feet:
Janome - Janome Accessory Tutorial Videos


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## rjayne

View attachment 16785


Something I found some where on the Internet. Thought it was funny


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## Leister Square

Yes, I've seen that somewhere before. Funny! Lipstick...!


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## CravenCrow

I make a folding template out of poster board to help with pressing hems and waistbands. It's just a long narrow piece of cardstock that I've drawn lines on at 1/2", 5/8", 1" and 1/2". I set it on top of the fabric when ironing, fold the hem over to whichever measurement I'm using, and press it in with the iron. Makes measuring and pressing long hemlines a lot quicker for me.


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## flowergurl

Info on needles for your sewing machine.

http://www.schmetzneedles.com/all-about-needles/#sthash.6Dr6AmO9.dpbs

http://www.sewmamasew.com/2009/06/sewing-machine-needles-how-to-choose-them/

http://www.fashionsewingblog.com/sewing-machine-needles-fabric/


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## Forcast

Wet the needle eye not the thread when threading the needle works on the machine needle too


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