# Tis the season! Newborn/Pregnancy/Milking Checklist



## LoneStrChic23

Tis the season

Kidding season has started and since goats can have such a steep learning curve I thought it would be good for those of us who have "Been there done that" to compile a list of supplies and tips... Obviously not everyone does everything the same way, but a good list of tips would be nice to have.

I'll start, and y'all just add to the list 

For newborn kids:

* Bo-Se
* Vit E gel caps
* Iodine for dipping navels & hooves.
* Lots of towels
* Floss or thread to tie of umbilical cords
* Pritchard nipples and bottles (even if you plan to dam raise)
* Glycerin infant suppositories (for humans)
* 1/2" 20g needles, pack of syringes
* Thermometer
* Baking soda
* Weak kid syringe.

I really can't stress enough how important a weak kid syringe is! Hoeggers sells them for $2, & the good thing about theirs is it comes with detailed, easy to read, picture instructions so even if you have never tubed a kid, you can quickly learn.

Warmth is important, do not let those babies get cold!

Get them dry, tie off their umbilical cords with floss, cut, then dip cords and hooves in iodine to prevent navel ill. 

If dam raising, stay with them until you see them nurse and fill their tummies. Do NOT leave and assume they ate. 

Squeeze milk from both teats before putting kids on to ensure milk is flowing easily. Check on them frequently to ensure the dam is taking proper care of them... If you have the slightest bit of doubt, take the kid away....

If kids are not up and standing or have no suck reflex, give Bo-Se & Vit E. You can also dab a bit of mollasses/honey on the roof of their mouth for a bit of an energy boost. 

It is not normal for kids to not be up and moving shortly after birth. I give mine an hour and a half, tops... If they aren't up and have something in their belly at this point, I tube them their colostrum be it a dam raised kid or bottle baby.

Have a thermometer handy and never tube a cold kid...

Make sure kid has normal body temp before putting anything in them. 

To warm a cold kid in an emergency, you can submerge in hot water, holding their head above water, wrap in hot towels or take a blow dryer/space heater to them... Whatever you have to do to get them warm.

Trying to syringe milk/colostrum in them with syringes or medicine droppers is a waste of time. Do not be shy about this... Learn to tube! If I have to tube, I usually tube my standard sized kids with 4-6oz at a time. 

To give you perspective, 2oz is 60cc! No way can you dribble enough in a few medicine droppers at a time, don't waste time here.... 

If you just can not get them to nurse, tube them and know they are good. Be very sure anything you are tubing into them is warmed to goat body temp though.

Watch your new babies stools... In the beginning they'll pass the merconium, the blackish, tarry type stools, then it will switch to the light tanish colostrum stools. If they are not passing stools, the infant glycerin suppositories are wonderful for this. They are easy to use and work. 

Anyone else wanna chime in? Perhaps a labor/delivery check list/tips? Or add to, elaborate or offer newborn care that I missed? 

Oh and of course, cameras are a must have so you can capture these lil newborn moments


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## Mama2ws

Fresh tube of probiotics
Heating pad
Playpen out of the attic since my babies stay in the laundry room 
Extra set of hands to hand multiple kids off to, if you're lucky


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## Minelson

Don't forget to deworm the mama goat after kidding!  Great post Crystal


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## Goat Servant

Excellent list Crystal!
The only thing I would add is to wrap kid in a heavy duty garbage sack before immersing. Water as hot as you can stand it. Change or add to when it starts to cool.
I dont usually take kid temps. If they are hunched over & mouth is not toasty warm they need help NOW.
This needs to be done immediatly kid will not survive without intervention.
Massage vigorously & put on heating pad when done.


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## BackfourtyMI.

CMPK Drench or Injectable in case you need it for Milk Fever. When you need it for the doe you need it Now.!

Great Post Crystal. Looks like you just about covered everything. This may be real useful thread for folks new to goats or a refresher for some of us old timers too.


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## dbarjacres

Great post. I'd just like to say for dipping navels I prefer chlorhex (nolvasan) as I react to iodine. Used that for 15yrs between horses donks and goats.

And tubing is super easy. Its so easy to feel it go down their throat when you place your hand on their neck.


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## rileyjo

Great advice! 

Keep going until you feel it is complete and I will make it a sticky.


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## Goat Servant

dbarjacres said:


> Great post. I'd just like to say for dipping navels I prefer chlorhex (nolvasan) as I react to iodine. Used that for 15yrs between horses donks and goats.
> 
> And tubing is super easy. Its so easy to feel it go down their throat when you place your hand on their neck.


Great alternative for those sensitive to iodine!

For navels I don rubber gloves & with film cannister held firmly to belly, tilt kid back.
If it's long I cut with sharp scissors to a couple of inches.


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## Shygal

Oh nice!! And yes this needs to be a sticky!


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## BackfourtyMI.

Goat Servant said:


> Great alternative for those sensitive to iodine!
> 
> For navels I don rubber gloves & with film cannister held firmly to belly, tilt kid back.
> If it's long I cut with sharp scissors to a couple of inches.



I keep my iodine for navels in a spray bottle. I also use it as a spray for teats after milking.


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## Frosted Mini's

Lots and LOTS of old towels. Save feed sacks for does to birth on-easier clean up.


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## BackfourtyMI.

Frosted Mini's said:


> Lots and LOTS of old towels. Save feed sacks for does to birth on-easier clean up.


But don't use dryer sheets or fabric softner on the towels intended for baby goat use.


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## Hannah90

oh heavens this is great. Expect my first kidding in march. Nervous, nervous, nervous.


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## noeskimo

I keep heavyweight liquid laundry detergent bottles, which i fill with warm water. I have used these in lieu of heating pads ever since my friend "fried" her cold puppies when the switch malfunctioned.


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## JBarGFarmKeeper

Well, I just read this thread a few hours ago. I went to bed about 11:30 p.m. and was awakened by DS15 who had just found newborn kids! They weren't due until the 22nd! Both bucklings and VERY cold. We brought them in and submersed their bodies in hot water and within just a couple minutes their temps went from low 90's to over 100! I made a "tubing" video because one of the guys was a little slow on the suck thing. The other readily took 1 oz. on his own. 

We put Karo syrup on our fingers to give them "brain food" while we were warming them and getting them stable.

Click on the link for the video to play...

http://s1259.beta.photobucket.com/user/GenaStuddard/media/PC090391.mp4.html


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## "SPIKE"

Good tubing video!

What is MAXIMUM length of time for the doe to be in heavy labor before you have to decide there must be a problem? I went through this last year and you guys here saved me.
Mineral oil/lubricant and rubber gloves.

SPIKE


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## BackfourtyMI.

If they are in heavy labor & having contractions/pushing don't wait longer than 1/2 hour MAX before going in to see what the problem is & help her out.

I don't wait even 1/2 hour if I see they are having problems(not very patient I guess). If I can see their pushing & with in 15 minutes still nothing I'm going in to help.


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## KrisD

Goatade to give momma an energy boost during or after labor. 
An extra person near by incase you have to pull kids.
Lube and short finger nails incase you have to go in.


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## BackfourtyMI.

I make up Electrolyte water. I got the recipe here from a member years ago but can't remember who. I have always used it since & my goats all Love it. I usually just mix it for each doe when they kid but if I have a goat that seems a little Off I'll mix some up for them too.

Electrolyte Water recipe
2 liters warm water
2 TBSP. Honey or Sugar
1/4 tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. salt
Mix & serve.


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## emanuelcs34

I like to have a nasal bulb syringe on hand to help suck the mucous out of mouth and nose. It has been a life saver for a few kids.
http://www.healthykin.com/showproduct.aspx?ProductID=1604&SEName=bulb-syringe&gclid=CPORo7a_jbQCFSTZQgodUG8AvA


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## Minelson

I made up a kidding kit with all the supplies and kept it by the back door. I printed all the helpful info I felt I needed and put it together in a binder with tabs for emergency situations. First page was a list of phone numbers for Vets and friends that could help if needed. I kept my cell phone and *camera charged* and in the kidding kit.


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## Goat Servant

If you dont have tubing a syringe will work.

Normally the doe delivers all three within about 20 minutes.
It _seems like if there's going to be a problem it's usually with the first kid holding up the process._


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## JBarGFarmKeeper

Goat Servant said:


> If you dont have tubing a syringe will work.
> 
> Normally the doe delivers all three within about 20 minutes.
> It _seems like if there's going to be a problem it's usually with the first kid holding up the process._


_

A syringe is NOT a substitute for a weak kid "catheter". You can warmth to the inside even if a kid can't swallow IF you have a weak kid kit (catheter and syringe)._


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## LoneStrChic23

Great video!! 

Min, very good idea to have info printed and with your supplies! Never know when your computer is going to have a moment & you can't log on.

For does:

* Lube
* Gloves
* Disinfectant (if you can't go in with gloves at least go in CLEAN)
* Injectable CMPK RX
* Needles, and a few large syringes (20+cc)
* Injectable Dextrose 
* Oxytocin
* Ketone strips
* Small clippers
* Courage

Watch late pregnant does for loss in appetite & any swelling around feet/legs. Note any unusual behavior. Go read about pregnancy toxemia & ketosis, learn to recognize the early warning signs. Do this BEFORE you ever have a problem. Metabolic issues like these and hypocalcemia progress rapidly & will KILL YOUR DOE....... You MUST be vigilant and jump into action at the very first hint of trouble. 

Check does for low temps, & compare temp to herd mates. Drop in temp is a warning for hypocalcemia. Get stocked on injectable CMPK, it's cheap, you just need an RX. If you can't get the RX, google Sue Reiths homemade CMPK recipe... Not as fast acting as the injectable, but better than nothing.

Make sure does have a good diet and make sure they have room to exercise.... Does in good body condition who are fit generally have an easier time of things.

This link has various birthing pictires & kid position diagrams, go study:

http://fiascofarm.com/goats/kidding.htm

Once your doe reaches the pushing stage, labor should be quick..... At no time, ever, should a doe be pushing for hours. 

Do NOT leave a doe pushing with no progress!

If she's been pushing with no progress, go in and see what's wrong! Don't be bashful, your doe's life could depend on this!! Get in there and see what's going on. I don't care if you have never done it, I don't care if you don't know what you are doing, now is a good time to learn & figure it out. So, muster a bit of courage and just do it.

Once your doe kids, watch for placentas.... Make sure she passes it. 

All the goo & hanging gore is normal. Never, ever pull on it.... If it's hanging so long it's dragging the ground or the doe may step on it, tie it up into a knot and let it hang.. If she's not passing it, you can give her oxytocin, but make sure you do it early... Say within the 1st 10 hrs after birth. Never give a doe oxytocin after her cervix has closed. Most vets will give you a syringe or 2 of Oxy to have on hand if you tell them what it's for.

I give all does some nice warm Goat Gatorade to drink, all of mine love it.

Milk your doe, even if you are dam raising. Make sure both sides work well and colostrum is flowing. Watch her interact with her kids & be prepared to help or raise them yourselves.... Some first timers are a bit bewildered, but with a bit of help and a watchful eye on your part, most figure it out. Even when I dam raised I usually took about 5oz from each side to stash in my freezer for emergencies, colostrum is like liquid gold, having a stash handy can be a life saver. 

I also reccomend milking your newly fresh doe at least once a day if you dam raise just to prevent her from becoming engorged or lopsided. Kids can rarely empty the udder on a good dairy doe during the first few days, so it's your job to keep her comfortable and watch for any problems.

I know I left out some stuff, my kids are running wild, so fill in my blanks


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## Sherry in Iowa

Great information here. I think it's a great "sticky" thread..but I think printing the info off so you can have it handy in the barn with you would also be helpful.

Honey is my friend when it comes to goats. It may not be right for everyone..but with kids that don't want to take a bottle..I smear a little honey on the nipple and put a wee bit in the bottle. I have never had this *not* work. I also always use human bottles and nipples til they are weaned. I had a doe have trips and she was not feeling good. I was a bit desperate and I took out a syringe full of honey. Put it to her mouth and she literally sucked it out. She got up and started drinking and eating her hay. When I took her out another syringe later..she wanted nothing to do with it. They know what they need/want.. if you get in sink with them..your job is much easier.

I'm a great one for watching each individual animal. For me and hubby..it's not good enough to throw hay and water and come to the house. We have to "know" each animal..whether cow or goat. If you know their likes and dislikes..if you know their habits (and each animal has their own) you can tell the minute they are feeling punk or there is a problem. We feed and milk on time..trying never to be over an hour late. It just seems to keep everyone humming along nicely.

I'm a baby puller. If they go into labor..and I don't see results..I'm going in pronto. I used to have the "triplets". They were sisters and all three bred at the same time and all three would kid at the same time. It was the oddest thing ever. Anyway..I had one girl, Rita, that was a great kidder. But, if she had a big kid in the lead..she would literally back up to me. She knew I would help her with that. Then it was stand back and watch 'em come. Again..I knew Rita. It's tough with new animals..but give it a wee bit of time and you can know them inside and out.


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## Frosted Mini's

When my does are pushing hard and the kids get close enough to the edge, I usually put one finger in and feel for position. One doe this year had a kid with one front foot back, so I shoved her back inside and pulled the foot up. I don't really know that it was necessary, but better to do something than leave it be until it would be more difficult to correct.

If a doe was not to that point though, and seemed to be having a hard time, pushing with no progress, I would glove up and go in deeper.

I think once the kids are in the proper position, there shouldn't really be a need to "pull" the kids. You can pull their front legs forward to give a little more room (elbows usually hooked on pelvis) once the head is presenting.


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## LoneStrChic23

Oh yea.... Small clippers are for pre-kidding trims. If you shave the back of the udder, the tail & long hair on back legs it makes cleaning up birth goo much easier. 

I also buzz in front of the udder so I'm not battleing hair when trying to milk. You don't need to shave them slick, just buzz them up a bit. Wal-Mart has a Norelco trimmer with switchable heads for $20 & used one of those for trimming for the past few years.


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## Crazy Farmgirl

Colostrum, if it's a first birth on your farm or been a crazy year you may need to get the powdered stuff or better yet goat or cow from a neighbor/friend. Have it on hand before the birth. You never know when you may need it. I always milk some from my does after the kids have had their meal, freeze it in 4oz servings so it is ready to thaw and serve. DO NOT MICROWAVE! Always warm in hot water until desired temp.


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## Rockytopsis

LoneStarChick

*Glycerin infant suppositories*, this is a new item for me, what is its purpose.
Thanks
Nancy


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## Caprice Acres

Doe care pre-kidding : 

Get her up in the milkstand and pretend to milk her once per day starting a month pre-kidding. Use this time to feed her a grain ration, and slowly increase it to a 'freshening' diet ration. I feed low calcium pre-kidding to stimulate proper calcium homeostasis. This process reduces risk of ketosis as well as gets goats used to the routine and to milking especially FF's. I've never had a 'bad' FF. 

Everybody gets a medicated feed starting a month pre-kidding. I use Rumensin at 20g per ton. This lowers the number of cocci shed into the environment by the dams, thus lowering the risk for dam raised kids - important if you dam raise kids. When the dairy does freshen, I put them on non-medicated. By the time you start consuming the milk at 2 weeks fresh or so, it should be cleared of their system. I raise boer (which mostly dam raise their kids) and dairy, which have their kids pulled to raise in isolation. 

Vaccinate the doe 4 weeks pre-kidding. If you do not know her vaccination history or if you missed her last year, give her a booster at 8 weeks pre-kidding (3 mon preg), and another one 1 month pre-kidding (4 months preg). This imparts colostral immunity to her kids, which is especially important as they start eating grain/solid foods around 3-4 weeks of age. 

I also give a shot of BoSe and Copper bolus a month pre-kidding. (They also recieved one abt 2 weeks pre-breeding, and were also dewormed and had hooves trimmed and CIDRs inserted at that time).

About 5 days pre-kidding the does get extremely diligent monitoring - ligaments at least 2x per day. They get sick of me checking hoohas. I also smell breath and evaluate their behavior. 

Once they kid, I deworm with cydectin. 

Kids recive 1/2cc BoSe. I do not use vit E capsules, there is already Vit E in the BoSe. I don't like putting anything down the kid's throat unless it's colostrum or milk. 

I pull dairy kids and put them on the bottle - all kids born to dairy parents. The bucklings recieve last year's colostrum or lower quality colostrum, and the doelings recieve this year's colostrum or higher quality colostrum. I try to offer all kids as high of quality colostrum as possible, but if I have to feed lower quality colostrum at all, it goes to bucklings. The older the doe is that is giving the colostrum, the higher quality it likely is. You absolutely HAVE to get colostrum into goat kids before about 2 hrs of age, or as early as possible. DO NOT leave dam raised kids until you see them up and nursing. Having a weak kid syringe is very important. I've only had to use one once, but was sucessfull in saving that kid. Usually with good management, kids should be up and hungry within about 15 minutes of birth. But, better safe than sorry. 

Be sure to express a little milk from each side of the udder at kidding, to remove the wax plug in the teat and make nursing easier on the new kids. 

HAVE A BOTTLE READY TO BOTTLE FEED JUST IN CASE! Rejection is rare, but negligent mothers (first timers) are fairly regular. In cases of full rejection in experienced moms (and often first timers too), it can OFTEN be traced to poor nutrition of the dam pre-kidding. A doe does not need to be fat (leads to metabolic issues), but if a doe feels nutritionally compromised she'll sacrifice her kids to save herself. Oftentimes if you still want to dam raise the kids, if you just isolate the doe with her kids and monitor them closely. Give them their first meal by bottle - using the dam's colostrum - to ensure they have energy to make it to the next feeding. Hold the dam for the next feeding if necessary. 

Kids start cocci prevention at 3 weeks of age. Dewormed for the first time at 4 weeks of age. Bucks castrated at about 4 weeks of age, when I give first vaccine. Booster again at 8 weeks of age. Disbudded around 4 days of age, also tattooed the same day. I do not give Tetanus antitoxin pre-disbudding or castration.


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## LoneStrChic23

Rockytopsis said:


> LoneStarChick
> 
> *Glycerin infant suppositories*, this is a new item for me, what is its purpose.
> Thanks
> Nancy


Constipated baby goats, works like a charm  Rarely need them, but when I did they were very handy.


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## JBarGFarmKeeper

Stimulating the anus with a paper towel or wash cloth can be very helpful in helping baby goats or calves to eliminate. I learned this a few years ago. That's why babies turn their butts to their mom's head, that stimulation triggers their bowels to move. It works like a charm!


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## LoneStrChic23

JBarGFarmKeeper said:


> Stimulating the anus with a paper towel or wash cloth can be very helpful in helping baby goats or calves to eliminate. I learned this a few years ago. That's why babies turn their butts to their mom's head, that stimulation triggers their bowels to move. It works like a charm!


Yes it does! Works for puppies & kittens too! I usually use a soft Bounty paper towel, damped with warm water 

I only resort to the suppositories when everything else fails. I had one kid who wouldn't go, gave up used the suppository and when he finally went, there was this hard, dry clump of merconium that plopped out, followed by an insane amount of the typical colostrum poo. Poor lil guy was stopped up!

Last year with Bleu's buck kid, he was scheduled to leave ASAP, was just keeping him long enough to get colostrum in him and make sure his bowels were working........ After the merconium I saw nothing.... Started freaking out and gave him an enema (ran out of suppositories). Nothing happened....... Ended up repeating this 4 times.... Felt bad as he'd see me with the syringe and bolt across the kitchen, lol

Spent the day staring at this kid's rear & just when I was going to call the buyer and tell them it was a no-go, he started to go and in like a flash of light swooped Karma, my momma to all things Chinese Crested, and got every bit of it cleaned before it even hit the ground! Just as fast, she left...... So, no defective butt, just a crazy dog clean up crew....lol


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## PKBoo

I have started to get nervous about kidding already - experienced our first lambing last year, but know kids are a little more intense.

Thank you so much for this thread - have my list going, and will be ready!


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## Double H Ranch

Collostrum and milk in the freezer, bottle ready even if you don't plan on bottle feeding. You just never know and if you are lucky enough to have a farm store close by they might not be open and time is everything with kids. jefferslivestock also carries the weak kid syringe. They offer free shipping after a certain amount that I always seem to hit. =) Also, I would add a few dinners in the freezer because if a goat is going to have trouble it will be right before dinner and for what ever reason family life refuses to take a back seat.


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## ozark_jewels

KrisD said:


> Lube and short finger nails incase you have to go in.


Cut your nails a few days before your first doe should go into labour. Freshly cut short nails(sharp edges), are just as bad as blunt long nails. Give your nails time to blunt with use for a couple days.


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## ozark_jewels

List for common(normal) births:

Towels(one per kid).
Bottle for colostrum(I bottle raise from birth).
Warm water for the doe when she is finished.

Most goat births will be problem free, keep that in mind and don't freak out!

I keep on hand in case of problems:

Banamine
Weak kid syringe and tube(important!!)
Oxytocin
Red Raspberry
Feverfew
Frozen colostrum
Hot water to warm frozen kids
Vets home number!
Lactated Ringers
IV kit
Injectable CMPK
Extra towels

If you go out to find extremely cold kids, don't give up before immersing their bodies(NOT THEIR HEADS!!)in warm water as described in previous posts. Even if you think they are dead, it won't hurt to try. I once found almost frozen triplets and I thought only one was living. After immersing, massages and care, they all three lived long happy lives.


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## JBarGFarmKeeper

Emily is "SPOT ON" with the above post! Never underestimate the power of warm/hot water. It saved Ozzy, for sure. Like I told my DD, you can't kill a dead kid...it doesn't hurt to try.


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## lordoftheweeds

Wow, we have 2 does due in Feb and after reading through this thread I guess there is a lot I need to get to be on the safe side. I had to google the Banamine, Oxytocin, Lactated Ringers and the Injectable CMPK because I had no idea what they were. So do I just get my vet to give me a prescription for these things? I have a lot of reading and some video to watch I guess.


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## CaliannG

If you have a good, working relationship with your vet, yes. If not, start getting a good, working relationship with your vet. A LOT of vets don't know much about goats, but if they are used to seeing you and talking to you, and you don't say anything they *think* is stupid, they will be willing to accept that even if they aren't experts on goats, you know enough to take care of yours.


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## Candace

This is such a helpful thread. I will feel like I am prepared supply-wise, but I'm worried about the fact that I may not be there when our first mama goes into labor. I only have three goats at this point - two does and a buck. Should the doe be in a pen by herself as we get closer to her delivery time? I have a nice sized pen with inside/outside access I can use but I don't want to distress her either. Right now, all three are kept together during the day since both does are expecting. Do I need to worry about the buck with kids? My instinct says its time for him to go back to his own pasture but I don't know if that's right or not. Thanks!


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## jcatblum

Milk handling basics
I have reviewed this thread several times, just for my own piece of mind to make sure I am not missing anything. 
http://www.homesteadingtoday.com/livestock-forums/goats/461352-cleanliness-while-milking.html


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## ozark_jewels

Candace said:


> This is such a helpful thread. I will feel like I am prepared supply-wise, but I'm worried about the fact that I may not be there when our first mama goes into labor. I only have three goats at this point - two does and a buck. Should the doe be in a pen by herself as we get closer to her delivery time? I have a nice sized pen with inside/outside access I can use but I don't want to distress her either. Right now, all three are kept together during the day since both does are expecting. Do I need to worry about the buck with kids? My instinct says its time for him to go back to his own pasture but I don't know if that's right or not. Thanks!


I do not like to separate my does when they kid. But I don't leave my bucks in with kidding does. I have never had any problems, but I have heard of bucks who get excited with the birthing smells and bother the does. So I do not leave the bucks with the does. If he has his own pasture, I'd stick him back out there.


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## Farmer Jayne

This is a great thread and it is important to be prepared for any eventuality. You don't want to be scrambling for supplies during an emergency. However, don't let this freak you out. It has been my experience that most of the births go without a hitch. I try to be present for all the births just in case. And, well, who would want to miss it? 32 kiddings over the last few years and only one needed help. Keep up with the pre- and post- natal care for both doe and kid. Keep your birthing kit ready. Learn all you can. But don't sweat it. It's usually just a lot of ...what? Fun, magic, miracle making? I cannot think of a word to describe it. But it's the main reason I keep goats. Baby goats. There is nothing more joyous.


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## Pinehollow

mygoat said:


> Doe care pre-kidding :
> 
> Get her up in the milkstand and pretend to milk her once per day starting a month pre-kidding. Use this time to feed her a grain ration, and slowly increase it to a 'freshening' diet ration. I feed low calcium pre-kidding to stimulate proper calcium homeostasis. This process reduces risk of ketosis as well as gets goats used to the routine and to milking especially FF's. I've never had a 'bad' FF.
> 
> Everybody gets a medicated feed starting a month pre-kidding. I use Rumensin at 20g per ton. This lowers the number of cocci shed into the environment by the dams, thus lowering the risk for dam raised kids - important if you dam raise kids. When the dairy does freshen, I put them on non-medicated. By the time you start consuming the milk at 2 weeks fresh or so, it should be cleared of their system. I raise boer (which mostly dam raise their kids) and dairy, which have their kids pulled to raise in isolation.
> 
> *Vaccinate the doe 4 weeks pre-kidding*. If you do not know her vaccination history or if you missed her last year, give her a booster at 8 weeks pre-kidding (3 mon preg), and another one 1 month pre-kidding (4 months preg). This imparts colostral immunity to her kids, which is especially important as they start eating grain/solid foods around 3-4 weeks of age.
> 
> I also give a shot of BoSe and Copper bolus a month pre-kidding. (They also recieved one abt 2 weeks pre-breeding, and were also dewormed and had hooves trimmed and CIDRs inserted at that time).
> 
> About 5 days pre-kidding the does get extremely diligent monitoring - ligaments at least 2x per day. They get sick of me checking hoohas. I also smell breath and evaluate their behavior.
> 
> Once they kid, I deworm with cydectin.
> 
> Kids recive 1/2cc BoSe. I do not use vit E capsules, there is already Vit E in the BoSe. I don't like putting anything down the kid's throat unless it's colostrum or milk.
> 
> I pull dairy kids and put them on the bottle - all kids born to dairy parents. The bucklings recieve last year's colostrum or lower quality colostrum, and the doelings recieve this year's colostrum or higher quality colostrum. I try to offer all kids as high of quality colostrum as possible, but if I have to feed lower quality colostrum at all, it goes to bucklings. The older the doe is that is giving the colostrum, the higher quality it likely is. You absolutely HAVE to get colostrum into goat kids before about 2 hrs of age, or as early as possible. DO NOT leave dam raised kids until you see them up and nursing. Having a weak kid syringe is very important. I've only had to use one once, but was sucessfull in saving that kid. Usually with good management, kids should be up and hungry within about 15 minutes of birth. But, better safe than sorry.
> 
> Be sure to express a little milk from each side of the udder at kidding, to remove the wax plug in the teat and make nursing easier on the new kids.
> 
> HAVE A BOTTLE READY TO BOTTLE FEED JUST IN CASE! Rejection is rare, but negligent mothers (first timers) are fairly regular. In cases of full rejection in experienced moms (and often first timers too), it can OFTEN be traced to poor nutrition of the dam pre-kidding. A doe does not need to be fat (leads to metabolic issues), but if a doe feels nutritionally compromised she'll sacrifice her kids to save herself. Oftentimes if you still want to dam raise the kids, if you just isolate the doe with her kids and monitor them closely. Give them their first meal by bottle - using the dam's colostrum - to ensure they have energy to make it to the next feeding. Hold the dam for the next feeding if necessary.
> 
> Kids start cocci prevention at 3 weeks of age. Dewormed for the first time at 4 weeks of age. Bucks castrated at about 4 weeks of age, when I give first vaccine. Booster again at 8 weeks of age. Disbudded around 4 days of age, also tattooed the same day. I do not give Tetanus antitoxin pre-disbudding or castration.


Vaccinate the doe with what? Thanks!


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## Farmer Jayne

Pinehollow makes a good point. Pretend that the person reading your post knows nothing about goats. I know some, but I often don't know exactly which medications or supplements you are talking about. What is/are CIDR's? I could look it up myself, but the whole point of this thread is to consolidate all the pertinent information into one place. Even a link would be helpful if you don't want to write the whole thing out. And Mygoat, this is not just directed at you. You are a wonderful resource of information. Thank you for sharing. I found that I was shy about asking for clarification and showing my ignorance until Doug Hodges on another thread asked for someone to explain what an abbreviation meant. I thought he knew everything. It made me realize that there are probably others out there who don't know what something is and are afraid or too shy to ask. I'm trying to start the New Year by fixing all of my mismanagement issues. This whole site has been really helpful. So thank you.
Good Kiddings!


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## PricklyPearHill

This thread has been so great for a newbie! I have a lot to google, but I am wondering why now is kidding season? I know there must be a reason. I put my buck in with the does at a time that would hopefully bring kids in the Spring when the weather and forage is nicer. I just assumed this was best. I have so much to learn. What did I miss?


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## Alice In TX/MO

People who vaccinate may use CDT (Clostridium Perfringens Types C & D-Tetanus Toxoid). The vaccination is designed to reduce the chance of enterotoxemia and tetanus. http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/livestk/08018.html

Other possibilities are Lysigin (for staph) and the Pasturella pneumonia vaccine.

A CIDR is a device used to cause the doe to cycle on a schedule.

From dairygoatinfo.com
"CIDR= controlled internal drug release....'s is plural.

The CIDR Sheep and Goat Device treatment programs represent a convenient and effective method for both synchronising and inducing oestrus in production animals. Using only naturally occurring progesterone, these unique treatment programs take control of the oestrous cycle by mimicking normal physiological events.

CIDR Sheep and Goat Devices contain the natural hormone progesterone. Intravaginally placed CIDRs release progesterone at a controlled rate into the blood stream."

Goats naturally cycle and become fertile in the late summer. They kid five months later. If bred on the first cycle, they are due now. I have kids due in less than three weeks.


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## Doug Hodges

Farmer Jayne said:


> Pinehollow makes a good point. I found that I was shy about asking for clarification and showing my ignorance until Doug Hodges on another thread asked for someone to explain what an abbreviation meant. I thought he knew everything.


 
I'm a newbie. I've learned a lot because I ask all the "dumb" questions. I was the kid in school that asked questions repeatedly until I understood. The only "dumb" thing is not asking questions if you don't know.


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## Doug Hodges

PricklyPearHill said:


> This thread has been so great for a newbie! I have a lot to google, but I am wondering why now is kidding season? I know there must be a reason. I put my buck in with the does at a time that would hopefully bring kids in the Spring when the weather and forage is nicer. I just assumed this was best. I have so much to learn. What did I miss?



I want my kids on the ground and going strong by the time it warms up and worms become more active but the main reason is I want to be able to breed this years kids this year and not wait a full extra year. However, I plan to sell most of them and it's easier to sell the first part of the year when spring is in the air and people are wanting to add to their farm. Most people are done adding by spring or early summer.


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## Mattie420

I've got my first milking goat looking ready soon and I'm super excited as this is a huge milestone for our homestead but at the same time I'm nervous because I'm a no oboe to this so I'm just looking for a few last minute tips that a movie needs to know. I also have a pygmy that's at this same stage but I won't be milking her


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