# Readiy to make shaving soap - questions



## deaconjim (Oct 31, 2005)

Ok, I've finally got all my stuff together to make the shaving soap (thanks to a little help from folks on HT). Here is the recipe that I'm planning to use:

Castor Oil 5%
Coconut 33%
Olive Oil 26%
Palm 33%
Palm Stearic 3%
Kaolin

Using Soap Calc, the qualities come up as

Hardness 99 / 49
Cleansing 0 / 22
Condition 0 / 46
Bubbly lath 0 / 27
Creamy 99 / 32
Iodine 2 / 46
INS 196 / 172

Of course, I have no idea what all those numbers mean, so I would really appreciate any insight that you folks might give. Will this make good shaving soap? Do I need to tweak the recipe?


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

i would be a bit more liberal with the castor oil. maybe upwards of 8%. maybe you can experiment with smaller batches and see what you like.


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## Hummingbird (Aug 21, 2002)

According the SoapMaker software you're running a little shy on moisturizing which could be bad with a shaving soap. You might want up increase the castor a bit because it provides good 'slip' in a shaving soap. 

You've also got a high level of hardness in this bar with your coconut, palm & stearic levels. But you're on the right track. 

I'd increase the olive and the castor while dropping your coconut and palm a bit. 

Kaolin can also cause drying although it adds a nice 'silk' feel to a soap.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

I think you're good to go.

You'll need the hardness of the palm, stearic and coconut since the soap sits in a cup and is exposed to so much moisture.

The addition of the stearic combined with the coconut should give you the sustained lather you need.

You may want to substitute a higher linoleic oil for the castor to up your moisture a bit and offset the drying qualities of coconut and palm.

When you give it a go, let us know!!!


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## deaconjim (Oct 31, 2005)

Well, it's done. I upped the castor oil to 8% and backed off on the olive oil to 23% to compensate. 

Unfortunately, I forgot to use distilled water. Will that make a difference?

I was surprised by how quick the mixture changed consistency when I poured in the lye/water solution. It was almost immediate, and after 5 minutes of blending with the stick blender, it was pretty stiff. I had to spoon it into the Pringles can and pack it in to get the air spaces out. Is that what I should expect?

How long should I leave it before cutting? I've seen some places that say 6 weeks, and others 2-3 days.


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

you can expect that sort of a fast trace when using higher amounts of palm, palm kernel or coconut oils. some oils just come to a trace faster than others. if it had been 100% olive oil and you used a spoon, you may still be stirring, lol. 

i would remove the soap from the mold and cut it into bars ASAP...as long as it has set up. if you wait too long, you may have just one huge bar of soap.  cut it while it is still workable and let it dry/cure on the shelf. i normally let my soap sit in the mold for about 1 day. i keep it insulated with blankets to help it retain heat and aid in saponification. you just don't want the soap to chill too much before it saponifies. if your soap has set for a good period of time, and it has cooled off, go ahead and cut it. you can probably try a bar of it in a week or so and let the rest cure for a month or two.


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## kidsngarden (Mar 24, 2006)

My last shaving soap experiment had 26 % stearic - you want to see something move fast!!!! Anything with too much more stearic than what you have (and palm too, cocoa butter as well) you have to HP or you will have soap on a stick in my experience. I HP'd my 26% stearic soap. I hear that higher stearic makes for lather that holds longer. I dunno, it does seem to hold for longer now - I wish I didn't make so much as I forgot the clay and I have a dozen or so bars and they last a long time. My hubby has decided he's perfectly happy just using his hands and a regular bar of my GM soap to shave with in the shower - takes the hassle out of it with no brush and mug. I'll have to add these bars to my bag of soap chunks I think...


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

The stearic makes soap accelerate.

How much oils did you use? What was your lye amount? Your water amount?

As for cutting, as soon as the soap cools down, unmold it and cut it. The 4-6 week cure is to let excess moisture evaporate and that depends on the liquid amount used -


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## deaconjim (Oct 31, 2005)

Castor Oil 8% 1.3 oz
Coconut (76 deg, solid) 33% 5.3 oz
Olive 23% 3.7 oz
Palm 33% 5.28 oz
Palm Stearic 3% 0.5 oz
Water 6 oz
Lye 2.3 oz


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

I'm glad to see you used the full water amount when using the stearic, you saw how fast if moved. If you would have used less water, it would have moved even quicker!!

I hope you cut it soon after you unmolded. You can use it now, but as it ages, it will get better (harder & more lather).

Let us know how you like it!!!


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## deaconjim (Oct 31, 2005)

Thanks for everyone's help. I did cut it the next day, and I used it yesterday. It is much better than the store bought stuff. I can't imagine why I would ever buy any more (this batch should last me a few years anyway).


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## MELOC (Sep 26, 2005)

awesome...we have another soaping addict, lol.  i was waiting for your report. what is your honest opinion on the lather? is it like any other soap you have ever used?


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## deaconjim (Oct 31, 2005)

MELOC said:


> awesome...we have another soaping addict, lol.  i was waiting for your report. what is your honest opinion on the lather? is it like any other soap you have ever used?


You've got two, Rose is hooked as well. She's looking to make some liquid soap.

The lather is great. The store bought Williams soap is like soapy water compared to my homemade soap. My biggest problem now is that I've made enough in one batch to last me several years, and I won't have a reason to make more.

Thanks again for everyone's help. :cowboy:


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