# Clothes dryer shutting off breaker box



## Felicity (Dec 19, 2010)

My clothes dryer is shutting off the breaker after
about 15 minutes of drying time. I believe the
dryer is the only thing attached to that part of
the breaker box. I can let the dryer cool down
but the same thing happens.

The dryer is VERY old. Does this sound more
like an electrical problem or has the dryer just
run it's course and has a problem with over-
heating now? There isn't a problem with any
other part of the breaker shutting off.

Just want to figure out what the problem most
likely is so I will know whether to call an electri-
cian or repair/replace the dryer.

Thanks so much!


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

Possibly the 30 amp breaker is defective. A fuse is either good or bad....not the case with a breaker!


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## pipedreamer (Jan 23, 2012)

All elec. Clothes dryers have a upper and lower heat limit switch,in case you set the dryer for too much time .the clothes won't burn . The high limit will shut down the heat element. For safety reasons if the high Limit is defective it will trip the breaker .we have a kennmore (20 years old) that did the same thing .get the model number and brand and the switches are inexpensive and easy to replace.unplug the dryer pull the back cover off ,and they are wired with two screws.


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## plowjockey (Aug 18, 2008)

agmantoo said:


> Possibly the 30 amp breaker is defective. A fuse is either good or bad....not the case with a breaker!


+1 here.

I have had a clothes dryer breaker, start tripping during dry cycles. A new one cured the problem.

I'd replace it, before tearing into the dryer.

Does the dryer feel like it is running hotter, than normal?


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Sounds like its a blockage in the venting somewhere. You may have to take the machine apart to clear the lint build up. A friend of mine just fixed his with the exact same problem by clearing the vent line from the drier.


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## Felicity (Dec 19, 2010)

Thanks for the suggestions!

I haven't noticed the dryer running hotter
than usual.

pipedreamer, mine is also a Kenmore well
over 20 years old. Will I need to purchase
these switches, if they are needed, at Sears?

I will show your replies to someone that can
try to pinpoint the problem for me. I will
report back later with what we had to do to
fix it.

I truly appreciate your help and taking the 
time to respond to my request!


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## Snowfan (Nov 6, 2011)

I would take a clamp meter and check the amp draw on the element and the motor. Make sure they are within the limits of the rating plate. Every year I tear our dryer apart and clean it out. Take all the parts outside though. You can get a lot of lint all over the laundry area.
It may sound like a stupid question, but do you use dryer sheets or liquid fabric softener?


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## pipedreamer (Jan 23, 2012)

There is no tearing into the dryer..........when you take the (six) 1/4 drive sheet metal screws off to remove the back cover ,you will need to remove the dryer hose from the dryer unit .at that time you can visually check the outlet for lint buildup ,if there is lint buildup there remove it .however the fact that you ran it that way probably damaged the limit switch .having said all of that were only talking $50 to fix it versus $350 for a new dryer its your call..............


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## pipedreamer (Jan 23, 2012)

And yes Sears has the parts. Ours never tripped the breaker from lint build up it just wouldn't stay hot . We cleaned the lint out and that's when the trouble with the breaker started .


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## ace admirer (Oct 5, 2005)

Snowfan said:


> I would take a clamp meter and check the amp draw on the element and the motor. Make sure they are within the limits of the rating plate. Every year I tear our dryer apart and clean it out. Take all the parts outside though. You can get a lot of lint all over the laundry area.
> It may sound like a stupid question, but do you use dryer sheets or liquid fabric softener?


+1 the proper troubleshooting teq. would be to measure actual amperage draw, if 80%of 30 amps breaker rating ,,,breaker is ok....if amp is less than 80 % of 30 amps ,,,then breaker may be weak.


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## Evons hubby (Oct 3, 2005)

pipedreamer said:


> And yes Sears has the parts. Ours never tripped the breaker from lint build up it just wouldn't stay hot . We cleaned the lint out and that's when the trouble with the breaker started .


Well theres the problem! Put the lint back in. 

seriously, if you have an amp meter handy, check to see what your current draw is. If it stays within range... you prolly have a weak breaker. If it is drawing higher amps... your problem is in the dryer itself.... and at that age I would be shopping for a new one.


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## Ross (May 9, 2002)

Wouldn't you open up a drier from the front? Maybe newer ones are different?


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## pipedreamer (Jan 23, 2012)

Yeah ju
st put the lint back in. That will solve it.


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## Ozarka (Apr 15, 2007)

first and foremost: your problem is most likely the electrical terminations at the breaker, inside the receptacle and least likely, where the pigtail is attached to the drier. I always check the tightness of the breaker terminals first as this is the primary problem I've run into. If these terminal screws are loose the breaker heats up and it trips. look closely at the wires for discoloration of the insulation (it gets browner as it cooks) or in the worst cases, the wire is discolored or burned. The screws should be tight, not almost, not sorta, but tight. Verify that the breaker is correctly seated such that it makes good contact with the bus bars. While you are at it, (using a screwdriver in good, clean condition), very carefully check the tightness of every terminal screw in the panel and you will be amazed that many are loose. If the average tightening only gives you an 1/8th turn then you are good shape; I typically have to torque the screws 1/4 to 2+ turns to cinch them down tight. Turn off the breaker and disassemble the receptacle and verify those screws' tightness. Checking the breaker and receptacle screws will fix 90% of the problems...The next problem area is to replace the breaker, they do get old and weak, sometimes a new breaker will go bad within a couple of months or years.


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## Esteban29304 (Apr 29, 2003)

Ozarka said:


> first and foremost: your problem is most likely the electrical terminations at the breaker, inside the receptacle and least likely, where the pigtail is attached to the drier. I always check the tightness of the breaker terminals first as this is the primary problem I've run into. If these terminal screws are loose the breaker heats up and it trips. look closely at the wires for discoloration of the insulation (it gets browner as it cooks) or in the worst cases, the wire is discolored or burned. The screws should be tight, not almost, not sorta, but tight. Verify that the breaker is correctly seated such that it makes good contact with the bus bars. While you are at it, (using a screwdriver in good, clean condition), very carefully check the tightness of every terminal screw in the panel and you will be amazed that many are loose. If the average tightening only gives you an 1/8th turn then you are good shape; I typically have to torque the screws 1/4 to 2+ turns to cinch them down tight. Turn off the breaker and disassemble the receptacle and verify those screws' tightness. Checking the breaker and receptacle screws will fix 90% of the problems...The next problem area is to replace the breaker, they do get old and weak, sometimes a new breaker will go bad within a couple of months or years.


 A agree with above, but he forgot to mention to turn off ALL power to the house when servicing the breaker box. I think you will find a loose terminal here, on the back of the dryer,, OR you need a new breaker. JUst be sure power is off.


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## pipedreamer (Jan 23, 2012)

Yes your right... Tightened all of the black and white leads in the fuse box haven't tripped a breaker yet


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## davel745 (Feb 2, 2009)

Check for loose wires. loose wires can trip a breaker


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