# Longer lasting chainsaw chain?



## Twobottom (Sep 29, 2013)

Just wondering if anyone knows of a type of chainsaw chain that one might actually get more mileage out of. I typically buy the Oregon line, and I find I go through a couple every season, even with sharpening. Wondering if anywhere there exists a chain made of a more resistant/durable material. Ive heard something about "carbide" chains but know nothing about them.


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## 1shotwade (Jul 9, 2013)

I cut 8-10 cord a year (old cord 4x4x8) and it takes me 4-5 years to wear out a chain. That's Oregon! of course I always keep a couple for back up. This last year I bought off a spool at aaaaa Stihl dealer which is supposed to be higher quality. It does hold an edge better but i've not cut with it enough to tell for sure. I find the Oregon's stretch too east with just a little bit of heat. By the time I wear one out I've removed about 6, 1/2 links. This chain from Stihl doesn't seem to do that , at least not yet.


Wade


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

hhhmmm how much wood you cutting to go through several chains?

I cut several cords last year, and only had to do a couple of sharpenings.. I still got several years left on the chain.. 

Be sure your wood is clean.. if you drag it through the dirt then cut it, you will wear out chains.. Also, do you allow your chain to hit the dirt when cutting through? If so, that's even worse than cutting dirty wood.. 

Oh.. what kind of wood are you cutting?

You don't want to mess with carbide... It's stupid crazy expensive just to buy, and to sharpen it costs even more unless you want to buy some really expensive sharpening wheels.. 

I used to sell and sharpen carbide chains for several fire departments that used it... It's great chain, but the costs of using it will set you back a lot more than a hand full of chains and paying to have them sharpened..


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## Twobottom (Sep 29, 2013)

I cut somewhere around 10 cords per year. After 7 or 8 sessions I need to sharpen, and after I sharpen once it seems I have to sharpen every couple of sessions. I am pretty careful not to allow the chain to touch ground, but you know when you are out there on all types of ground and conditions...stuff happens. I cut mostly hard wood though sometimes I do cut spruce and birch. I don't know how you guys can keep chain for more than one year:shrug: unless you don't mind cutting with a dull, worn chain.

R U using some type of electric sharpener?


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Yep.. I use an electric... From TSC.. I keep a stack of chains, and just sharpen them all at one time.. Only takes a couple minutes tops per chain, even if you have to grind down the depth gauges..


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## 1shotwade (Jul 9, 2013)

Twobottom said:


> I cut somewhere around 10 cords per year. After 7 or 8 sessions I need to sharpen, and after I sharpen once it seems I have to sharpen every couple of sessions. I am pretty careful not to allow the chain to touch ground, but you know when you are out there on all types of ground and conditions...stuff happens. I cut mostly hard wood though sometimes I do cut spruce and birch. I don't know how you guys can keep chain for more than one year:shrug: unless you don't mind cutting with a dull, worn chain.
> 
> R U using some type of electric sharpener?


I just sharpen by hand in the field for the most part. I think a lot of it is to not let it get dull to start with and to make sure you're not running out of oil before fuel.I ALWAYS file down the guides which allow for a deeper cut into the wood. You'd be surprised how much that helps.
Of course about twice a year I'm get so far off from the original 30* angle I take it to the barn and I have a hand guild that I'll throw 10-12 strokes on each tooth and it's back to new.While in the field I may sharpen 2-3 strokes once or twice a day just to keep an edge on it.Another thing that might be a difference is I never cut any gummy wood like pine etc. Don't know if that makes a difference or not.
It's like getting a good knife. I cleaned and deboned 7 deer and 109 squirrels one year with my new 2 knife set without having to sharpen them.If I hit a bone or had some other indicator that they were loosing their edge I'd just "strap" them on my leather belt and go back to work. If you never hurt the edge bad enough without repairing the damage you've done it'll last a long time.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

I use only Stihl chains. I have several, some of which are probably 5+ years old. I sharpen by hand with a Dremel. I mostly cut softwoods.

I do use an old trick from my dirt biking days. Every once in a while I simmer the chains in oil for about an hour. It cleans them out really good. In the biking days, we would simmer them in a mixture of axle grease and paraffin. That got it into all the rollers and the paraffin kept it from flying off. Be sure and do this outdoors as it stinks quite a bit.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

I don't simmer my chains, but I do keep them in a can of diesel fuel... It also takes the pitch from the trees off the chains..


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## patanke (Aug 22, 2011)

I will have to try the simmering oil method. 

I have always had good luck with Stihl chains, even on oak, until I hit the dirt with them, or try to cut a log that has been dragged out of the forest. I try to cut up logs where they fall, lifting them with the grapple bucket, minimizing the dirt that gets imbedded in the bark. 

I find it easier to just switch chains rather than filing in the field, using a similar sharpener to the one shown above from northern tool at night instead.


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

I know we are talking chains but from a maintenance standpoint, one of the neglected areas is the bar. Every once in a while it needs to be removed and cleaned really good. Then I let the bar sit in a can of oil with the roller in the oil.

When I change a chain or sharpen it, I spray the bar and chain real good with P Blaster.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Don't forget to file the bar even and flat too when you maintain it..


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

simi-steading said:


> Don't forget to file the bar even and flat too when you maintain it..


Humm.. never heard of that but I'll start doing it. Thanks.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

After a while, a bar may wear more on one side or the other, so your chain may be cocked at an angle.. This will especially happen if you don't sharpen a chain evenly.. ... They will also wear towards the inside of the groove, and leave a taller lip towards the outside of the bar...


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

simi-steading said:


> After a while, a bar may wear more on one side or the other, so your chain may be cocked at an angle.. This will especially happen if you don't sharpen a chain evenly.. ... They will also wear towards the inside of the groove, and leave a taller lip towards the outside of the bar...


So it would not cut straight it would seem. I once had a bar that got to where it would just not cut straight. It would always angle to the left on big cuts. Didn't seem bent as far as I could tell. Wonder if this might have been the problem. 

Again, thanks for the tip.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Yep, a worn bar can cause it to not cut straight, along with a chain that isn't sharpened evenly, or has dept gauges on one side cut lower than the other.. .

The latter can cause the bar to wear like that..


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

I had figured the bar wasn't cutting straight was because it was worn. But my thought it was probably the roller worn out. I didn't realize there was something as simple as this to bring it back to straight cuts.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

Yep, simple to fix... clamp it in a vise close to the edge of the bar and use the vise as your guide for a straight filing..


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## dirtman (Sep 15, 2011)

I've been using Husky chains. They seem to hold an edge real well but find they also stretch much more than Oregon. Usually after a month of use they are stretched too much to tighten. I've never shortened a chain but I guess I'll have to learn. What are the cheapest tools that will do a good job?


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## SpaceCadet12364 (Apr 27, 2003)

roller tips will have a lube hole on one side or both for grease. Also clean the bar once a season scrape out crud so chain slides easier.


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

dirtman said:


> I've been using Husky chains. They seem to hold an edge real well but find they also stretch much more than Oregon. Usually after a month of use they are stretched too much to tighten. I've never shortened a chain but I guess I'll have to learn. What are the cheapest tools that will do a good job?


Harbor Freight has this breaker and spinner... I can't vouch for what the quality is.. I've only used Oregon tools, and you really don't want to afford those for a few chains... .

http://www.harborfreight.com/chain-saw-chain-breaker-spinner-99835.html#.UzSnf_ldVIE

I've been thinking about buying this one and buying a reel of Sihl chain for a while.. It would be a lifetime supply I think.. but I do have a LOT of trees and brush....


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## Dutchofsc (Feb 23, 2014)

I like my chains super sharp as well. Mine is a husqwarna, and those chains do stretch quite a bit when new. They settle after a few adjustments and do quite well after that. I use the granberg sharpening tool

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZY1WG/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it on the special offers for a bit over 20 bucks, and it has paid for its self in one day. You can get the perfect 30 degree angle every time, and it's pretty quick. This tool is made in America and is solid all metal construction. Oregon made something similar, but it's made in China and somewhat flimsy. I highly recommend it.




Sent from my iPad using Homesteading Today


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## idigbeets (Sep 3, 2011)

Husqvarna chains are Oregon chains.... 

You must be doing something wrong, as I but at least 10 cords a year for firewood, and a lot of pole wood to sell, and some high end billet logs as well. I sharpen my chains 3-4 times a year, and most are 3+ years old. 

Is your bar oiler working well? Do you sharpen the cutters correctly, don't forget to file down the teeth with a flat file.

If you are cutting frozen or dirty wood, start using a semi-chisel chain.


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## Madsaw (Feb 26, 2008)

I touch my chains sometimes as often every other tank full with s file. Then I will run them on a Oregon 510 grinder. Plan in spending at least 100+ for even a 510 copy grinder. They have many more adjustments than the small grinders.
Now chains. Stihl will stretch less and have harder cutters. But this makes them hard to hand file and will produce more heat when grinding. This will make a cutter so hard you will ruin a file on it trying to file it.
Oregon/ husqvarna chain in this chain look for the lgx series of chain. Cutters are just about as hard as stihl. Easy to file and takes grinding easy.
If you seem to be dulling chains fast in a day. Then maybe look at switching to semi chisel chain. Full chisel chain has such of a small leading cutting point it foes not take much to dull them. I've been switching to semi for cutting all my firewood. Cuts just a tad slower but not very noticeable. Very good for frozen and dirty wood. 
Also as others stated check your oiler. If your getting that much stretch you got way to much heat there. Check output and keep bar groove and hole clean


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## bigjon (Oct 2, 2013)

i'll cut up to 60fc's a year,oregon&husky chains don't cut it(stretch) overall stihl chains work best and stretch least.


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## Inthesticks (Mar 18, 2014)

The best way to learn how to maintain a good chain is have to buy them . When you get tried of spending money you'll learn lots of things. A lot of good points made here. Keeping the chain sharp during a day of cutting is top on my list a few licks will go a long way in ease of cutting. Turing the bar either by file or grinder keeps you cutting straight. Make sure your oiler works properly keep chain from gumming up.


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## GREENCOUNTYPETE (Jul 25, 2006)

I just wore out a chain , this was my 2nd chain I think i bought my saw in 2007 but I lost one of the chains my first year when i hit a nail several inches into a big oak tree it tore 7 cutters right off the chain
so roughly 6 years on this chain , I cut 80% dry standing hard wood , and about 20% softer woods 
I have a backup chain and bar but they have been sitting mostly unused except if i stick the bar in the tree then i unbolt the power head and put on the backup bar and chain and cut it free

i tried one of the electric sharpeners , big waste of money , it didn't cost that much but it ate chains a chain would get 10 about sharpening 

I have been running steel safety chain the same as my Stihl MS260 came with the only thing wrong with this current chain is i have no cutters left they are tiny after years of sharpening , guessing at how many times i have sharpened the chain if i sharpen every other fill of gas and the gas tank holds about a pint an 1/8th if a gallon and i go through 4 gallons of gas a year thats 24 gallons 24x8=192 and if i sharpen about every other time i gas up 96 sharpening i used to sharpen a bit more so about a hundred figure 2 gas ups cuts about a cord of wood so about 50 cord of wood to a chain 
I probably could have gotten a few more but i had started sharpening this chain with the electric sharpener chain costs 25 dollars so 50 cents a cord for chain cost near a dollar in gas , 75 cents in oil and I will probably get another chain wore about before this bar is used up maybe 2 so 25 cents a cord for the bar so about 2.50 cents a cord in bar, chain, oil , gas and if you said a a dollar towards the saw and maintenance for a price of a 3.50 if i add in some other things like saw chaps , helmet , saw files it might be 4 dollars a cord actual cost to cut 

i am hoping that with less expensive bulk chain , with more cutter and sharpening only with a file that I can get that down a bit but it's not bad 

i only run premium no ethanol gas in my saw with good 2 stroke oil part of why my gas cost is the highest part of cutting 

I have talked to the owner of the saw shop down the road from me he is has bulk logging chain , and says it lasts longer than the safety chain because there is more on the cutters , but it also can kick back easier if you don't know what your doing


there are other things to figure like the stove and stove maintenance new fire brick and gaskets ,but with what we were spending in oil for 2-3 fills a year and the increase in oil price the way i told my son to think of it i can work a moth a year at work for dollars that get taxed to turn into oil or i can work 7 days of work for myself for wood to heat with and keep that months worth of dollars for other things


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