# Ford 1720 Tractor Won't Start



## Rick (May 10, 2002)

Ford 1720 Tractor Won't Start

Been acting up the last 4 out of 25 times I started it. It would not make a sound. I thought it was the starter, and tried to get it to move, and quickly put it in gear. Each time it started, but I think the ignition cylinder has a lose connection. There is some play in the cylinder and "escutcheon" (if that's the name of the spacer plat e the cylinder fits in when I turn the key.

When I turn the key counter clockwise no lights- no glow plug indicator. This model has a position clockwise for glow plugs before the starter is engaged. When I turn it that far I get the oil pressure and charge system warning lights. When I try to start it I get some "static", but no lights or ignition. Oil is as full as I keep it, I don't think it is a pressure issue.

My plan is to open the front tomorrow, if the deer and the antelope haven't played with it too much (it is deep in the woods of course).

Any thoughts other than the starter (new 160 hours ago) or loose wires or cylinder?

Thanks ,

Rick


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## Windy in Kansas (Jun 16, 2002)

Sounds much like a dirty battery post. Are you sure the terminals are clean and have no corrosion under the cable clamps? Ground wire to tractor clean?

The static---is it like a clicking or kind of a sizzle? Sizzle would indicate dirty terminals not making contact. If not dirty terminals it may be a discharged battery. Do you have a voltmeter that you could put on the terminals to measure voltage?


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## Rick (May 10, 2002)

Howdy Windy

Battery is only 12.25 volts, a little low but more than enough to crank. I tested hot cable clamp to ground post. I usedthe tractort for short duty trips today- 10 to 15 minutes at a time which I try hard to avoid.

The noise is a low level sizzle- a little like a short on a 120 volt cord but less sizzle. Definitely not a clicking or a crackle. The cables and posts look pretty clean, so I'll save them until I get the "DASHBOARD" off!

Thanks for checking in.

Rick


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## rambler (Jan 20, 2004)

Battery post is crummy.

Safty interlock switch is bad.

Key switch is bad.

Clean the posts (95% this will cure your problem), if not be _darn_ sure you are in nuetral - I'd put both levers in neutral, and start jumping past switches with some battery cables. This will isolate the problem area.

Again, be _very_ careful jumping past switches, you can kill yourself by running yourself over, understand what you are doing.

--->Paul


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## Windy in Kansas (Jun 16, 2002)

Windy in Kansas said:


> The static---is it like a clicking or kind of a sizzle? Sizzle would indicate dirty terminals not making contact.


I should have made my thoughts clear, the sizzle is from dirty terminals---battery terminals that is, not switch terminals.


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## Rick (May 10, 2002)

I cleaned the battery terminals. There wasn't any corrosion, but I wiped them off good. When I hit the glow plugs the indicator light came on, and and it started. I ran it for over 10 minutes to make sure the battery was charged. I figured "problem solved". I turned the key again, and the glow plug light lit ,so I reinstalled the start switch.- I tried to start it again, and it wouldn't start- back to the drawing board. 

I thought well, maybe disconnecting the battery is a clue, like there is a relay or something, so I disconnected it for ten minutes. It started right up again. This time I left the front cover pulled off, put the nuts and bolts in a sandwich bag, fastened the bag of tools to the stack of logs we were bringing back and went back up to the bunkhouse/ homesite while I could.

I'd say between 3 pm Tuesday when it wouldn't start and noon today when it started I tried the switch 15 times with no luck. And It was probably 8 times today when it acted up the second time.

Now each time I try to start it, it starts willingly- 4 times and I checked the glow plugs briefly 4 or 5 times. So about 10 good starts. I ran all of this information past the ford mechanic, and all we can figure is it is the start switch. That costs 67 dollars- ouch. I guess I'll get one and change it next time it won't start.

Another twist is the parking brake indicator light does not come on right now, but I think that is just a coincidence. 

Does it seem unusual for a start switch to go faulty on and off like this? Does anyone think disconnecting the battery could have any impact- to help the switch operate correctly?

The tractor is 12 years old, with 1270 hours on it. I have some reading in the service manual to do- hmm I see there are start switch testing instruction with the ground disconnected, and an ohmmeter. They have a good diagram of the 5, Start Switch Terminal Screws. Sorry to think out loud here, I was just trying to report back and now I see what to do next time it goes faulty.

Rick


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## Windy in Kansas (Jun 16, 2002)

Rick said:


> I cleaned the battery terminals. There wasn't any corrosion, but I wiped them off good. Rick


Before I spent $67 + tax I would brighten the battery terminals with a battery brush which cleans the post and the attachment cleans the inside of the cable terminal. If no battery brush a strip of emery cloth will work. Remove enough of the corroded lead until it is bright and shiny. Wiping a terminal that appears clean just won't do it.

Sorry to hear all of your effort hasn't worked thus far. 

Apparently you have a slightly different model than mine as I don't have a parking brake indicator light. I have an analog dash and expect yours is electronic. Mine is also 12 years old, A Ford without the New Holland logo. Think they were the last year for Ford only. Great little tractors.


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## EX-BRAVE (Aug 5, 2008)

Don't just check connections at the battery, check also the ground connection where the cable bolts to the frame or engine block. They corrode there also from sitting outside in the weather and you will not get a good ground just enough voltage to light instrument lights etc. but not glow plug light when the key is turned not enough current passes to starter. Also make sure key switch is tight. An old quick remedy on corroded post is to pour coca cola to remove the crud (fast fix) pepsi will not work,coke only. Good Luck !!


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## Rick (May 10, 2002)

Thanks Folks for the insight. 

As of my earlier post, it was running again. Sorry I didn't make it clear. 

One thing I haven't brought up was that a plastic washer (which used to hold the starter switch cover) is no longer there between the metal side wall and starter switch "fastener". It was hanging half in place and half not, so I pulled it out like a fool. It did make the switch loose, but even when I removed the switch it still would not start when I held it in my hand. 
It actually seems like the lack of plastic there, allowing the metal switch fastening ring to make contact with the side wall, might have been affecting the circuit???. I cut myself a plastic washer from an old kitchen trash can with an exacto knife to fill that gap, andthe switch is in tight as a drum.

Yeah, wiping the terminals with a rag wasn't the best thing to do. I"ll clean the battery connections properly, and check for ground cable connections faults/ corrosion.

Yes Sir, it sure is a nice tractor.

Rick


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## Rick (May 10, 2002)

EX-BRAVE said:


> Don't just check connections at the battery, check also the ground connection where the cable bolts to the frame or engine block. They corrode there also from sitting outside in the weather and you will not get a good ground just enough voltage to light instrument lights etc. but not glow plug light when the key is turned not enough current passes to starter. Also make sure key switch is tight. An old quick remedy on corroded post is to pour coca cola to remove the crud (fast fix) pepsi will not work,coke only. Good Luck !!


Howdy Ex-Brave

I just noticed you are new here. Welcome to the Forum. Lots of good people and discussion her.

Rick


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## rambler (Jan 20, 2004)

My NH 1720 doesn't have a parking light either.

Electrical issues that randomly come & go can be very, very difficult to track down.

I believe you have a bad connection somewhere on your tractor, and properly cleaning the places where cables bolt together, or batteries clamp on, will fix it. This can require some electrical cleaning fluid, brushing battery terminals, very fine emery cloth & some elbow grease.

My combine, the battery terminal goes bad every year. I can clean it up, and think it's good, and 2 days later in the field, dead. One time I clamped a Vice Grip over the terminal, and away I went. You use what you have out in the field. It takes a good connection to get 12v to push these diesels around. You need to check the other end of the battery cables too.

And after all that - it still could end up being the stupid switch. 

I have an older gas Ford tractor, it randomly won't start 1 in 10 times. Been tracking on that one for almost a year now. I know your pain.

--->Paul


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## EX-BRAVE (Aug 5, 2008)

Thanks, been here for quite a while but for some reason was not allowed to post (easier to get into the White House) still don't know what the problem was,guess they thought I was a nut which has been true on many occassions. Anyhow I'm purebred country that was raised right by my parents and growing up on the farm I learned (had to)be self reliant in many ways as many of you did. Left several years to pursue another life but as we do sometimes we return to our roots with no regrets AT ALL !!. Thanks Again


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## EX-BRAVE (Aug 5, 2008)

Rick; Forgot to tell you the plastic ring you removed probably at one time had a small cap cover attached to keep rain/dust out,don't think that is you problem however if you remove the keys like many it'll let rain water enter the key hole and short out the switch.May want to think about that also. I once had the flapper on a tractor exhaust stay up (not close)after running and it rain for 3 days and when I went to start the engine the rain had drained down into the cylinder and blew a hole in the block big enough to insert cantalope. Make sure you keep your flapper down (cant be repaired) anyhow good luck and let us know the outcome.


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## Rick (May 10, 2002)

Thanks again.

I have some obligations that are gonna keep me from dealing with this for a while. It is true I have no decent shelter for ol' blue right now, and I'll have to keep a tin can on the exhaust as their is no flapper at all. I'm not one to take chances with my possessions. I've been putting the snapped off plastic cap over the start switch religiously after the duct tape I reattached it to the "washer" with failed, so that stays covered. 

Rick


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

When you remove the oxide from both battery posts and from the inside of the battery cables the fix should last. You could also remove the negative battery cable from where it affixes to the tractor and clean that connection to bright metal and reassemble as added insurance. After you get everything clean and reassembled take about a table spoon of chassis grease and 1/2 tea spoon of baking soda and mix these. Then coat the two battery post and cable ends lavishly with the mixture to reduce future oxidation.


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## Rick (May 10, 2002)

agmantoo said:


> When you remove the oxide from both battery posts and from the inside of the battery cables the fix should last. You could also remove the negative battery cable from where it affixes to the tractor and clean that connection to bright metal and reassemble as added insurance. After you get everything clean and reassembled take about a table spoon of chassis grease and 1/2 tea spoon of baking soda and mix these. Then coat the two battery post and cable ends lavishly with the mixture to reduce future oxidation.


Thanks for the recipe!

We went ahead and spent the time to remove these connections, and cleaned up with steel wool and fine sandpaper today. I coated the connections with petroleum jelly, as I had this handy. 

I'll wipe them, and add the concoction and that should get us through to next Fall when I'll need to look into a new battery. This one is 3 years old.

Rick


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