# $30 Automatic Chicken Coop Door Opener



## cfabe

After much searching for a commercial door opener that wasn't $200+ I decided to just build my own. It uses a cordless screwdriver for the motor and some inexpensive electrical parts to control it. Cost was around $30. Works great so far. I wrote a how-to article detailing the design which is available on my blog here: http://www.fabiens.org/ckblog/?page_id=106
I also put a short video of it's operation on youtube here: [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJuWQ_j_mLA[/ame]


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## ||Downhome||

how do you keep the ***** out?


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## cfabe

The door leads out to a fenced in pen with netting over it. Have not had any trouble with raccoons so far.


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## Callieslamb

Is it on a timer?


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## cfabe

It's connected to the same timer my lights run off of. Lights turn on, door opens. Lights turn off, door closes. If you go to the link I posted it has a full description and instructions to build it.


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## gone-a-milkin

cfabe, that is very cool! Is the door made out of a cuttingboard? 

Awesome job and thanks for sharing all your plans too.


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## cfabe

Yes the door is a plastic cutting board I found at a discount store. It was strong enough and waterproof. The rails it slides in are track from a bifold closet door from a habitat for humanity restore. Total cost for the door was about $5. 

I've learned an incredible number of things from this and other websites so I was happy to take the chance to share the plans. I hope someone can make use of them.


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## Wisconsin Ann

Looks very durable and easy to keep the tracks clean. I've seen some of the sliding doors that clog up really quickly.

***** could be kept out by putting a sill on the outside that the door dropped down behind. **** couldn't get his paw under it then...although that would mean keeping the sill swept out.

Only thing I'd have to comment on is the wiring. Have you had any problems with the hens pecking at the lovely "worms"? Would you plan a covering for it? Perhaps a half pvc pipe or an "L" of 1x lumber?

Thanks for the plans....Very nice detail on the wiring and set up. Usually you see a "wire it up and then...."


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## cfabe

I do have a sill on the door. I also have an idea for an automatic latch for added security that I'm going to try to make today. Basically a lever that will pivot into a catch when the door is down.

One or two of the chickens seemed interested in the wires. I was hoping they would leave them along. It would be simple to cover it with something if necessary.


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## cfabe

I added an automatic latch to the door to prevent it from being opened by lifting from the outside. It's just a counterweighted lever that engages a pin beside the door. When the opener lifts the door, it pulls on the lever to unlatch it before the door moves.








Youtube video: [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3Sgvuaq9w4[/ame]


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## laughaha

very very cool. I want one


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## simonz

Hi there cfabe

Much inspired by your design so I'm going to have a go. I have some basic electronics skills, have ordered all the parts from Ebay, and I'll make a start when it all gets here.

I'm planning on using an old rechargeable B&D drill/screwdriver. However, I'd like a bit of advice, as my electronics skills are, as I say, basic.

I plan on following your circuit diagram exactly - easy to follow so no problems there.

However, in the drill body itself there are a number of components I'm not sure of. Obviously there's the variable speed trigger switch, a single switch with a bunch of wires going into it which also incorporates the direction changer. There's a fat diode connected to a few of the ports, and a MOSFET also wired in there somewhere attached to a chunk of metal as a heatsink.

So, Q1 is, do I need all this stuff? The old battery on its own will happily drive the motor forwards and backwards, though admitedly it is a little fast and fierce. It'll probably be powerful enough to open a barn door, never mind a chicken coop. Or could keep all the wiring exactly as us, use a plastic cable tie to depress the trigger (partially perhaps, to reduce the speed - tested this and it works) and insert your relay in between all this stuff and the motor to do the switching and the direction changing. Thoughts?

Q2 involves the power supply. The old B&D battery charging base is powered by an external 12v power supply (14.8v actually), and inside the charging base there's a small PCB. I'm guessing this PCB is there to regulate the power going to the battery, maybe to make sure it doesn't over-charge? Really, have no idea - just guessing! My plan was to run a long cable from the 12v external supply to a project box installed in my coop, which would contain this little PCB, and your relay. I'd then split my power with one line going to the relay, and the other going to the little charger PCB, and then from there to the battery located in the drill, via your diode as you have it in your circuit diagram. So, my question is, does all this make sense?

I really hope so because I'm getting very excited abut trying all this out. If you want photos and diagrams, let me know...and thanks in advance for your help!


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