# Rabbitry equipment.



## wolffeathers (Dec 20, 2010)

I have only had rabbits for just over a year now and have decided that we will continue with rabbits. So far we have used whatever cages we've come across, that would provide a decent space for the rabbits. 

One of the biggest things on my to-do list is to update the rabbitry. I was thinking about ordering 30"X36" cages. We have Silver Fox rabbits, so they could use the space, the mother and kits at the very least. 

The other thing I am determined to get is an automatic watering system. I was looking at the recirculating heated watering system. Would it be purely luxury. (Yes!) The thing I loathe most about my beloved animals is dealing with frozen or ice cold water. Currently we use a large bucket filled with water and dip the water bottles into the water to fill them. After I water, my hands ache from being in the cold water. The latest method we've switched to is a 55 gallon with a faucet on it. 

I know the ideal method would be a water faucet in the barn with running water, but we'll only be at this location for a couple more years and hubby groans at the thought of running pipes to the barn for running water. Our next barn 'will' have running(if not heated) water.(( I know I'm being a wuss, but frozen or cold water is my biggest pet peeve.))

Will the 30X36 cages be plenty big enough for the silver fox? Should I use this for all the rabbits(bucks included) or will the bucks not use such a large space? The bigger cages are only a couple bucks more, worth the extra space(I think). 

What size feeders do you suggest? I know that I want the sifting feeders with the hardwire/screen bottoms.

Is it worth ordering from Bass equipment? I know that Tractor Supply is only a couple bucks more per cage.

Thank you for your input.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

I have all of my silver fox, NZW's, and crosses in 30"x30" cages. You could go bigger with the does and litters, but I've found it's not necessary. My cages are built as 10' units, split into 4 cages. I did it this way because TSC carries 1"x2" wire in 15' rolls... so a 10'x2.5' cage is exactly 15' of the wire for the walls. They also carry floor wire (1"x1/2") in rolls that are 30"x10'. Therefore, I was able to maximize my useage of all supplies by not cutting the wire. For dividers, I used salvaged metal scrap. Klubertanz sells nice cage dividers, alternately.

Also to note - 30"x36" cages are huge, and would make it very hard to catch a rabbit in them. I'd go with less depth. 

For a growout cage which seems to comfortably house 20+ kits, I use a cage unit without dividers - so 10'x2.5' 

I use dish feeders now and HATE it. I plan on getting 5" sifter feeders for bucks, 7" feeders for does with litters, and a few 11" feeders for my growout cage.

Hope that helps, I don't know much about automatic waterers as I have also yet to take that plunge. 

I would like to say that bottles are not ideal in winter. I use nesting cheap dishes from the local dollar store to help with this. I poke holes with a hot poker in one dish, as well as two holes near the lip, which I use to zip tie it to the cage. Then I nest an untouched dish into it. I fill the dish 1/2 way with HOT water (5 gallon bucket) from outside using a little watering can with the spout cut short. I refill it to half way morning and evening. If the dish is full of ice, I dump the ice. To prevent breaking the dish, I dip it open-end-up in the bucket of hot water for just a second, and the ice slips right out. For the litters, I just put extra bowls in. Works great for me!


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## wolffeathers (Dec 20, 2010)

Do you have any pictures of your cage system? 

Do you have any issues with the floors sagging?

Anything you would change if you could redo it?

I wonder what your end cost was, did you happen to keep track?

Is sounds like an excellent way to go, and then you could always readjust the cage size by adding or removing dividers.

Do you use any sort of catch system for the droppings? Currently my rabbits live in a horse stall of the barn. I was thinking about running a tarp down behind the cages and tacked to the wall, that way I could just drag the hose in there and just spray down the whole room. The walls are wooden and are getting fairly nasty. It's all a work in progress.

Thanks, this sounds like an excellent idea.


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## Boonehillbilly (Aug 31, 2009)

Lowes sells the wires as well for like 4 bucks less in my area.. I started buying the wire at TSC then found it better priced there.. Get ya some good wire cutters!!!


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## wolffeathers (Dec 20, 2010)

We checked at TSC today and they were out of everything. I'll have to try Lowes later. 

Boonehillbilly, those are some beautiful cages. Nice set up. May I ask what your drop pan system is?


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

I have my silver fox does in 30 X36. they are big rabbits. the bucks 24 X24 or 24 X30. Reaching into the cage is only an issue if you have short arms. some people do. I also have rex, and they are in either 24X24 or 22X30 for breeding does. Use what you got.
If you are buying and can afford it I would go with some 30 X30 and some 30X36.

I would go bass before tsc. Make sure you get dura trays rather than the crappy off brand plastic or metal ones. I have all three kinds, and the duras are a far cry better.
One thing no one has mentioned. with 30X36 cages, thats quite a tray full of poop to be lifting. If you dont clean them often they get very heavy.
24X30 or 24X36 cages might be a better choice for your situation.


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## ladysown (May 3, 2008)

i use water pitchers to fill my bottles/crocks. Means no wet hands. Take off the sprinkle head part and use those green water pitchers people use for gardens. AND I don't use COLD water in the winter, warm to hottish water. Bunnies will appreciate it.


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## wolffeathers (Dec 20, 2010)

I hadn't planned on stacking cages(yet), so I hadn't thought much on the trays. We simply hang the cages from the rafters of the stall and have 55 gallon drums cut length wise under the cages. I like to feed a lot of hay, so I just rake it up and throw it in the barrels. When it's time to clean, we shovel stuff into a wheel barrel and wheel it off to wherever it's going(worms, lawn, garden).

Thank you everyone for all your help and input. Hubby asked what I wanted for Christmas and I just looked up from the computer and grinned. 

I really appreciate everyone's input and I'm taking notes.


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## Boonehillbilly (Aug 31, 2009)

The drop pans are pvc pipe and 6 mil plastic, super cheap and works like a charm


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## wolffeathers (Dec 20, 2010)

Boonehillbilly said:


> The drop pans are pvc pipe and 6 mil plastic, super cheap and works like a charm


And you use these just like drop pans? Pull them out and dump them and place them back? Or are they stationary and you just sweep them off?


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## Boonehillbilly (Aug 31, 2009)

use them just like drop pans.. Pull them out, dump and scrape off with a plastic putty knife and put back in They cost around 3 bucks for the 30x36 ones


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## wolffeathers (Dec 20, 2010)

Very interesting. So you just buy PVC pipe and form a square the size of the cage, then run the plastic over them and then use cut PVC pipe to "snap" the plastic onto the PVC frame, right?


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## Blair (Sep 3, 2007)

What do you all think of cages made with *galvanized after weld *wire. Like Klubertanz sells here? Worth it? 

Galvanized after weld supposively is stronger, stiffer and lasts longer.


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## Boonehillbilly (Aug 31, 2009)

You got it Wolfeathers, super simple. Blair the stuff you buy from lowes will do the same job but that being said if you want to put the extra cash with your inital investment then I would go for it.


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## lonelyfarmgirl (Feb 6, 2005)

galvanized after is better, the welds don't rust or pop apart as readily that way.


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

Here are my cages. yes, they are under our back porch - out of precipitation and most wind. The downside is, I have to crouch to do chores. Not too terrible, as my 21 year old back can take it.  

Each cage 'unit' houses 4 rabbits in 30"x30" cages. 

The poo falls to the floor. I decided when I got into rabbits that I absolutely did NOT want to clean pans. I don't have time to clean pans. So, all poo falls to the ground here. To clean, I use a snow shovel to 'plow' out the underneath of the cages. I really only have to do that 2x a year or so. No smells on our sandy soil. 

Eventually, we plan on having a 'shed' rabbitry - which will more likely be a buidling with a roof and short walls that block wind/rain, but is otherwise open. I'd likely have a dirt floor, and the poo would still fall on the ground. For cage stacking in this future shed, I had planned on making the same size cages but stacked, with slanted plastic dividers between the levels like boonehillbilly showed above.


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## Blair (Sep 3, 2007)

Nice! How is the wood holding up for you?


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

The wood on the sides and underneath the cage is inacessible to the rabbits, so it's treated wood. The wood on the top of the cage is untreated, and they kinda chew on it sometimes, but it's holding up quite well.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> The downside is, I have to crouch to do chores. Not too terrible, as my 21 year old back can take it.


Why not dig out a walkway down the center?


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

Bearfootfarm said:


> Why not dig out a walkway down the center?


Hmm, it may be a good idea if I can fix a few issues. 

It would fill with hay on a daily basis, as well as water when it rains. Water still flows along a cement pathway and flows out like a creek under the porch. Bunnies stay dry but the ground doesn't. 

Also, I'd have to reach father into the cages if I stood lower. Right now it's fairly easy for a person my size to get into cages and do chores.


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## wolffeathers (Dec 20, 2010)

I hope one day to have the rabbits in a pole barn or a carport type shelter with partial walls. My plan would be to put slanted plastic underneat the cages, to divert most of the waste outside the building. That way I could build worm bins or just compost bins right outside the rabbit building. Hoping by doing this too, we could simply move the compost around using the tractor, vs hauling stuff to the compost bin and then shoveling and wheeling compost around the place. 

Whether this actually happens, who knows. You have to have something to aim for right? I'm forever plotting new stuff. LOL


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## Boonehillbilly (Aug 31, 2009)

The only bad thing about wood is bacteria and the inability to sanitize correctly..


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## GoldenMom (Jan 2, 2005)

mygoat said:


> Here are my cages. yes, they are under our back porch - out of precipitation and most wind. The downside is, I have to crouch to do chores. Not too terrible, as my 21 year old back can take it.
> 
> Each cage 'unit' houses 4 rabbits in 30"x30" cages.
> 
> ...


I am super in love with your cages. I take it you lift the top to get to the rabbits as I see no doors? And the tops appear to just be chicken wire rather than more expensive rabbit wire? Do you use any kind of baby saver wire for your doe pens?


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

GoldenMom said:


> I am super in love with your cages. I take it you lift the top to get to the rabbits as I see no doors? And the tops appear to just be chicken wire rather than more expensive rabbit wire? Do you use any kind of baby saver wire for your doe pens?


I love my cages, too.  Nope, to me baby saver seems to be a waste of money IMO. My rabbits are never small enough to fit through it, so it's a waste of money. The wire on the walls is 1"x2". 

Yes, there is no doors on the cages, just the lids with cheap chicken wire. Thec chicken wire doesn't need to be very strong as it isn't under stress. The only trouble I've had is sometimes a sneaky rabbit will learn to hop the dividers, but that's solved by putting a brick on the wire over the divider for a few weeks. Alternately, we could've made the dividers taller. They rarely try to hop it, though. There are two tops per cage unit, which I slide backwards or to the sides to get into them. I also lean them up and squeeze into the cages occassionally. 

As for sanitizing, I have never once sanitized a cage. Haven't needed to, and I see no reason to start. I suppose if I had to I could scrub them down and douse them with bleach, that would likely be adequate enough for most situations. You'll never kill ALL bacteria, just enough to stop disease spread to otherwise immune-healthy animals.


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## Vicki2x2 (Nov 30, 2010)

For watering in the winter this is what I do. I use the heated water bottles. They are $20 a piece, so I am replacing them a few at a time. Until then and before then, I used the 2 qt rubber bowls. When frozen you could turn them upside down and stomp on the to get the ice out. Or, do what I do. I keep a stock tank with heater in my barn for water animals, I just float the bowls in there and have an extra set for the buns, then next time I come out that set is unfrozen and ready to go and the water/ice was not wasted. I fill the tank once a week and then put the hose back in the basement to keep from freezing. No more frozen hands, buns have nice warm water.


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## Cheribelle (Jul 23, 2007)

First of all, Mygoats, your cages look Awesome! 

As for water, I use the metal pans from the farm store, They have tabs that slide over the wire, so usually stay put. I use a garden watering can without the sprinkle head, and warm water. I have enough to rotate them, into a bucket in the house to thaw. I used to take a bucket of hot water, the ice slides right out. But, then I have wet, cold, gloves. So now I rotate pans out. 

To the OP. My cages are 30 deep X 36 wide. I am short, with short arms. If I were to build, I would go with wider, less deep measurments. Always keep your wire sizes in mind so you don't waste any.


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## jkmlad (Jun 18, 2009)

I have a range of cage sizes to accomodate different aged rabbits, but with my Silver Fox will not settle for less than 18" tall. Breeding does/ does with litters are in 36x30. Groups of very young juniors of 3 or more are in 36x30. 2 young jrs get 36x24. (usually the mom is removed from the brood cage, and the youngsters get to stay. At 3 months, they are separated by sex) 1 young jr gets 24x30 or 18x30. When they hit the 4 month old mark, they are in individual cages (at least 24x30) or in the freezer . Show bunnies and breeding bucks are kept in 24x36 or 30x30. I don't have unlimited space, and must cull heavily to accomodate this plan, but it is important to me that each rabbit has sufficient space to live a productive and healthy life. All of my cages are all wire. The 36x30s hang from the ceiling, with smaller cages on legs with trays making a second layer over them. I also have 3 and 4 stacker cages on the other side of my rabbit shed. The legs are all metal. I have some trays that are the cheapies that you can get at TSC, but if you plan on doing this for more than 5 years, the Dura Trays are worth the investment. I am a "use it up" kind of woman, so I will suffer with the cheapies until they fall apart, but I will never make that mistake again! We have also attempted home made solutions to the Dura Trays, but they remain my fave. While there are smaller and shorter cages in my rabbitry, they accomodate my "Nursing Home Bunnies" and my grands Holland Lops. These rabbits are smaller and require less room than my Fox. Cleaning/ de-furring cages/ disinfecting is so easy with this arrangement. Trays and rabbits are removed from the cages, and each cage is burned out with a propane torch. A working hose is always nearby, in case of emergency. A quick once over with a toilet brush is usually all I need to do to remove any ashes and complete the job. I have, over the years, read reviews of circulating heated water systems, and haven't heard of one yet that really works in the worst of weather. I buy those cheap stretchy gloves and cover them with rubber gloves to play in the water on cold days. Rabbits don't like rubber gloves, so I work fast. I have been using a two crock system for years. Carry out fresh plastic 16 oz clip ons in the AM, filling them halfway. Carry in the frozen ones and let them sit in the sanitary tub in the basement until the ice falls out. PM, I take out watering cans with warm water, and top off the crocks in the cages. The frozen crocks from the AM will be ready to use the next morning. I buy the cheap squarish plastics that just slide onto the the wire. (available from equipment dealers) Some of my idiots knock them off fast, but most won't. It becomes a quest for me to figure out how to hang them on the cage to make it hard for them to knock off. (try putting them on so the door helps hold the tabs in place) You will also lose several a year to chewers, but EZ Crocks are more expensive, and too hard for me to manuever when it's really cold. Besides, they chew on EZ crocks too. All of my rabbits have J feeders. I love them. Bigger is not better... even for a litter. If they are long, the little guys will sit and poo in them. I had longer J feeders, but now use the 5" and the 3" feeders. All of my litters are free fed, so they don't all crowd the feeder at the same time. They know they are always full. I am not the ultimate expert at rabbit care... but these are my reccomendations based on 30 years experience.


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## wolffeathers (Dec 20, 2010)

We went and picked up some wire today. 25feetX26inches of 1X2 wire for about $37. Then we also picked up the 1/2X1 wire in 30"X10feet at Lowes.

We cut the 36" wire in half. So some cages will be 18 inches tall, but then some will be 16 inches. I'd love to have them all 18, but you lose a couple of inches with the cut. 

We are almost done with the first cage. Those PITA J-clip pliers broke after only 8-9 J clips :grump: Have to get new pliers tomorrow.

Thank you everyone for your help and input. I can't wait to see that new and improved rabbit room.


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## TxGypsy (Nov 23, 2006)

wolffeathers said:


> The other thing I am determined to get is an automatic watering system. I was looking at the recirculating heated watering system. Would it be purely luxury. (Yes!)


This time of year those watering systems sure do get tempting. The main thing that helps me to resist temptation is the potential for the rapid spread of disease. Another thing that keeps me using individual bottles is that I know when one of my rabbits isn't drinking enough or at all.


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## SweetwaterClyde (Aug 12, 2009)

mygoat said:


> I love my cages, too.  Nope, to me baby saver seems to be a waste of money IMO. My rabbits are never small enough to fit through it, so it's a waste of money. The wire on the walls is 1"x2".
> 
> Yes, there is no doors on the cages, just the lids with cheap chicken wire. Thec chicken wire doesn't need to be very strong as it isn't under stress. The only trouble I've had is sometimes a sneaky rabbit will learn to hop the dividers, but that's solved by putting a brick on the wire over the divider for a few weeks. Alternately, we could've made the dividers taller. They rarely try to hop it, though. There are two tops per cage unit, which I slide backwards or to the sides to get into them. I also lean them up and squeeze into the cages occassionally.
> 
> As for sanitizing, I have never once sanitized a cage. Haven't needed to, and I see no reason to start. I suppose if I had to I could scrub them down and douse them with bleach, that would likely be adequate enough for most situations. You'll never kill ALL bacteria, just enough to stop disease spread to otherwise immune-healthy animals.


Just wanted to say that your cages are very nice (to a frugal person who appreciates simplicity and functionality). Your advice and knowledge are top notch too. A young person like you is a rare commodity, its quite refreshing. Wish you the best of luck with your career! Although someone like you rarely needs luck. 

Now, back to rabbits!


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## Caprice Acres (Mar 6, 2005)

SweetwaterClyde said:


> Just wanted to say that your cages are very nice (to a frugal person who appreciates simplicity and functionality). Your advice and knowledge are top notch too. A young person like you is a rare commodity, its quite refreshing. Wish you the best of luck with your career! Although someone like you rarely needs luck.
> 
> Now, back to rabbits!


Thanks, that's very sweet of you.


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## Robbvious (Jul 23, 2010)

mygoat said:


> For dividers, I used salvaged metal scrap. *Klubertanz* sells nice cage dividers, alternately.


Thanks for mentioning Klubertanz. I didn't even know of them and they're right down the road from me! Wish I'd have known about them before I spent all that money on mediocre equipment from Farm & Fleet!


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## Lazy J (Jan 2, 2008)

We recently moved from Stackers to hanging cages and wont' go back! We now have 40 holes hanging with another 8 to go as grower cages. Once we finish the manure collection system I will post photos.

Jim


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## jkmlad (Jun 18, 2009)

Something I forgot to place in my last post... I have raised Californians, Satins, and Silver Fox in all wire cages, and babies of each one of those breeds have managed to squeeze through 1x2 wire. In my opinion, baby saver IS worth the cost. Brood cages w/o babysaver have urine guards to try to help keep the little buggers in the cage. Looking back at all the years I lived without it, I wonder what took me so long to get it!


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