# I got a used horse trailer with some rust HELP please



## ColumbiaSC.

This trailer is rough but it was top of the line back in its day. There is some rust on the side panels and other areas that I want to repair, the frame is good. the side walls and the front up at the top is rusted thru. If it was made of wood I would not waste your time but this is metal and I am kinda in need of some ideas. The trailer has plywood walls inside and a thin skin of metal on the outside, overall it is sound but cosmeticly it needs some lovin'.
What should I do about the rusted out holes in the skin?
Give me a minute to upload some pics. in a new post,
Thanks in advance


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## ColumbiaSC.

Here are a couple of pics that are not very good, I can and will get better detailed shots tommorow, it was getting dark and I was in a hurry, sorry for the NO DETAIL shots.


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## farminghandyman

I would clean it out very well and use body putty and and hardware cloth on the inside and then work the out side to make it to match , 

I have fixed a lot of holes in my combine with body putty and hardware cloth,
(hardware cloth is a heavy galvanized wire screen with about 1/8" holes m also make a 1/4" version), but the cloth will help the putty bridge the hole and reinforce it, 

I also have used it to fix some holes in a fender of a car where some lights were removed and drove that car for about 100,000 on dirt roads and never had a problem with the repair,


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## ColumbiaSC.

I know very well what hardware cloth is, but the people in this town all call it chicken wire! I guess we are old timey country boys! I just bought a 10' X 1/4" roll to make crawdad traps the otherday, I have some leftovers,, if it is exposed on the inside of the trailer what would you do to make it look better? I was thinking I would use fiberglass cloth and skim it on the outside, but up at the top any repairs will be left showing. 
I wish I had a sandblaster but I only have a palm sander to remove the rust. Would Navel jelly be an option?


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## Ross

I'd power wash the exterier and sure use naval gelly. Palm sand down the edges putty prime and paint. If that's the worst of the rust then you're not too bad.


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## Esteban29304

A fiberglass kit will work, too. Nasty to work with if this is your first time. Follow directions WELL on the kit. The kit usually comes with a 3-4" strip of fabric with it.


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## moopups

Drawing a memory blank here but there is a substance that chemically changes the rust to a solid very dark color and the rust is nullified. The memory blank is apparently the work of the age thing, you know, when you are called an old body odoriferous scent?

Some of the ones born in the last half of the last century can recall the name and will do so quickly.

As far as the filler goes we used window screen to support the material until it dried. Glued on application.


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## unioncreek

Your thinking of phosphoric acid you can buy it in most hardware stores and they usually sell it in a plastic quart bottle called Ospho. It will convert the rust to a paintable surface a lot of auto body shops use it on old cars.

Bobg


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## ColumbiaSC.

I pressure washed it today and all of the black paint plus the pin stripes came off, I ended up with a copper collerd trailer! hahaha. Olivia said she likes the new color!
The tailgaite/loading ramp was all rotten so I got some 3/4" treated plywood to replace it. The wireing is FUBAR and will have to be redone, the inside walls (plywood)
will also need to be replaced, the padding is ok and the floor is in great shape (treated 2x6's). The tires are almost in new shape as well. I passesd on other trailers that where in the same price range but not near the quality. After I get done I think this will be a nice outfit for the Baremare and Starbucks. I like the walls and divider everything is padded, the breast and behind walls also. All of the dividers are removeable and with the ramp I can also haul a lawn mower ect. It has a front area that Olivia can use like a dressing room for shows and storage for her saddle and tack.
There is some metal issues I will deal with I hope y'all can advise on. but I think I am in business now and will not have to beg for the use of a trailer anymore! Independance is a great feeling!!!!!


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## ColumbiaSC.

I forgot to add, this is a 'Thoroughbred' brand trailer 1983 model, anyone ever heard of it?


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## Blu3duk

Ive not heard of that [articualr brand but then out on the left coast we have a couple brands that sold dominately back in that era..... WW and Circle J

I think that if I was gonna redo this type of metal work i would not only have power washed it, but got aholt of a sand blaster and taken ALL the paint done to bare and then sand the rust or cut it out, and replace by welding.... after all it aught to look pretty if its a thoroughbred eh? or is it look fast and sleek....

anyhow if it is something you figger on kleeping around, it is a project worth putting some time and effort into doing right.....

since the wiring is shot, add conduit to run the wires through, it saves in the long haul and really dont cost that much upfront anyway, my utility trailer even has junction boxes to split off from [call it time on my hands and parts in the bin callin out to me.... "use me, Use me"..... yes i hear voices in my head at times out in the shop]

William
Central Idaho


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## Bay Mare

Columbia said:


> I forgot to add, this is a 'Thoroughbred' brand trailer 1983 model, anyone ever heard of it?


I believe what you have is a Shoop Manufactured trailer that is the Thourobred model. We have one just like it. The dividers and breast plates are a little high in ours for our Qh's and short walking horses. Check the front center support were it attaches to the roof brace as they break loose (allowing divider and breast plates to move) and need to be welded back on.

We have been very pleased with ours. Pulls great I have pulled it 70-75 mph with a mare that has a lot of trailering (wouldn't with a young inexperienced horse). "DW was asleep."

Congrats and good luck,
Mr. Bay Mare Tony


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## ColumbiaSC.

I replaced the ramps plywood today with 3/4" treated plywood and re-installed the rubber mat,,, WOW that mat was heavy! My dad sugested that I should re-do the wireing first so that this trailer will be 'road ready', I was thinking more about the apperance but he was smarter than me by thinking about it being 'road safe'. I may do the wires with better protection than they had, only chaulking holding them in place before. Conduit or cpvc pipes probably, my mom is all on board with this rebuild, she said she is going to get new padding for the inside and wants too know what color I want! I had no idea this was going to be a family project! hahaha 
A veteran horse friend told me today that this is wider and taller than a standard 2 horse trailer and I got a great deal,,man that helped me feel better about my choice .


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## WayneR

Moopups,it's called rust converter. Auto paint places cary it.Rust-Mort is a common brand. 

If you use a sandblaster, there may not be much left afterwards,to use fiberglass or bondo on. Unless you can fabricate the "missing" parts, the earlier posts on restoration would be more practical.

Some places appear un-repairable. The "step" below the tailights looks especially bad. You could bondo-pretty it up, however, when someone climbs up on it (you know they will) , they'll come crashing down to the ground with lacerations on their leg from where the patch broke through :grump: 

It would be safer to rebuild these places or remove them entirely, to eliminate a potential physical and legal hazard.


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## Esteban29304

I agree with Wayne, above. Unless you are good at steel work & welding, you need to take this to a shop to get some of the places repaired. I see several places that need new steel panels, etc. welded in. REMEMBER= How much the trailer weighs, & the weight that it will carry. Two horses in that trailer is unsafe,, in MY opinion !


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## Jim S.

Heck, that thing looks GOOD compared to mine! Usually we just run 'em like we brung 'em. Make sure the floor is solid.

If you can weld and can find some scrap steel, you're good to go. Old barrels are a good source of scrap steel, as are old cars.

I wouldn't do the body putty and mesh. It'll just rust out again.


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## Bay Mare

Esteban29304 said:


> REMEMBER= How much the trailer weighs, & the weight that it will carry. Two horses in that trailer is unsafe,, in MY opinion !


I am curious as to why you say that? Is it that you think it needs to have some repairs before trying to haul two horses in it? Or you think it is too small for two horses regardless of condition? 

I am asking this because as my husband stated earlier we own what appears to be the twin of this trailer (execpt for color).

Thanks, 

AngelaW


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## Esteban29304

Bay Mare said:


> I am curious as to why you say that? Is it that you think it needs to have some repairs before trying to haul two horses in it? Or you think it is too small for two horses regardless of condition?
> 
> I am asking this because as my husband stated earlier we own what appears to be the twin of this trailer (execpt for color).
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> AngelaW



Just from it's appearance in the pix, I wouldn't haul one horse in it. The trailer is heavy, horses are heavy, bouncing & twisting over the roads, horses shifting their weight around, etc,,, etc. If outside panels are rusty like that, I wonder what framing looks like. This trailer,, IN MY OPINION, for safety's sake,,, needs going over before doing anything like that.


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## Ross

What I'm seeing rusted out is the sheet metal covering and splash guards, he did say the frame was good etc. That it is so bad in the second series of pictures makes me wonder if the frame would withstand some hammering, especially around the spring mounts. I'd take an air powered chisel and just tap up and down the frame (scaling off rust) and make sure


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## Blu3duk

Well I stand by my suggestion of sandblasting the rust away so a person can check the quality of the metal electrolysis has ate away, use a cutting torch and take out any fabric that is not good and replace it with some new found sheet metal.... and then use a good coat of rust inhibitor paint on those areas as it will happen again from road salts.

I would check on the shackle bolts themselves too [I lost one on a utility trailer in the middle of montana a few years back when i went to pick up the boxing ring.... if that werent fun trying to find a bolt in a foreign town on Sunday morning before heading home]

family projects ARE the best, as the support is sometimes needed as they drag out a little longer than you expect sometimes [not that this one will]

William
Central Idaho


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## ColumbiaSC.

so far the underside looks better that the upperside, the floor is treated and the frame is 80%. I will have to raise it off of the ground and bang around some. The man I bought it from reassured me if I am unhappy with it in the next few weeks he will buy it back from me at full price.


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## ColumbiaSC.

Ross said:


> What I'm seeing rusted out is the sheet metal covering and splash guards, he did say the frame was good etc. That it is so bad in the second series of pictures makes me wonder if the frame would withstand some hammering, especially around the spring mounts. I'd take an air powered chisel and just tap up and down the frame (scaling off rust) and make sure


Lets lay these fears to rest right here and right now! Thank you very much for the 'safety concerns,BIG TIME'. I went out at just after dark O'clock this morning after reading past posts ( that kept me up all night lol) and took a hard look. The underside has some normal rust but the bolts,couplers, leaf springs, floor supports, tounge all are with in normal wear and tear, I have a 1969 18' Wells cargo trailer that looks about the same and it has a million miles on it. 
Thanks again for reminding me to think about the under side because I can still take this bad boy home for a full refund if I want too.
I did not write any of this post as sarcasim by any means, I just want to state that the underside looks good, 80%.
I sanded and primed some of the drivers side today but there is a lot left to do, I have some easy functinal ideas about some of the body repairs that I want to set into motion in the next few days/weeks.
Get ready because I want to post some pictures and a progress report as soon as I can!


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## Ross

No problem just sometimes things look OK and you get a surprize. A shame to put so much effort into the minor stuff to find there's more work that might mean undoing the first repair to reach the next. Looking forward to updates!!


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## ColumbiaSC.

I bought some Bondo,cloth, navel jelly and some rustoleum for rusty metal today, lets just say if you need Bondo get it from wally word because I got a gallon size can for $2.00 more than a quart size can from O'rilleys or Autozone. I sanded, filled and sanded again 50% of the drivers side today and it looks/feels smooth as a babies @! I will try and do more tommorow because I have the day off. 
I have a Wagner electric spray gun that I spray latex paint on cabinets with, I would love to have a real spray gun but $ dictates. Do you think this electric gun will lay down a decent finish? I have not tried it with oil/automotive paint so I have no idea where to start.
Thanks again.


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## ColumbiaSC.

One more thing,
what is the difference between the cloth that looks like smooth woven and the crazy freestyle fiber looking cloth?


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## Ross

I've only ever sprayed stain through a wagner but they have a good reputation. I think the short strand fibreglas is designed to form over complex angles but if someone knows better I hope they jump in!


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## ColumbiaSC.

Ross said:


> I've only ever sprayed stain through a wagner but they have a good reputation. I think the short strand fibreglas is designed to form over complex angles but if someone knows better I hope they jump in!


That make sense, thanks


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## Jim S.

As a FORMER body shop guy, I'll tell you yer just wasting yer time with Bondo and mesh over rusted out areas. They will simply rust right back through in a matter of a couple years. If you insist on not welding in new metal, then go get some boat fiberglass kits and patch with that fiberglass and resin. It will last maybe 7-10 years with that before rusting through again.

The real, permanent solution is some scrap sheet metal and a welder. BTW, don't patch load-bearing areas like steps, etc. with either Bondo or fiberglass.


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## ColumbiaSC.

Jim S. said:


> As a FORMER body shop guy, I'll tell you yer just wasting yer time with Bondo and mesh over rusted out areas. They will simply rust right back through in a matter of a couple years. If you insist on not welding in new metal, then go get some boat fiberglass kits and patch with that fiberglass and resin. It will last maybe 7-10 years with that before rusting through again.
> 
> The real, permanent solution is some scrap sheet metal and a welder. BTW, don't patch load-bearing areas like steps, etc. with either Bondo or fiberglass.


 I am sanding the rusted areas down as far as I can then putting on navel jelly with a primer, then I am lite sanding again then putting the Bondo as a filler to the pits and scratches. Then sand and prime it with Rustoleum. I am trying to neutralize the rust the best I can. I have some bad areas that I am going to cut away and add new metal to and try to refabricate the best I can. This is not a full body off restore but somthing that will carry us for a year or two untill I trade UP. 
In the areas like the steps, around the fenders, I am going to add a 3/4" treated plywood floor then add the finish trim metal as a cover, that should be very strong and last. We all have to start somewhere!


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## ColumbiaSC.

I was kinda burnt out after the work I did yesterday, I did very little today just before dark. I added new metal to the front and back of the fenders, I pop riveted them in place and used cloth and bondo to smooth it all out, I can do sheetrock mud very nice but bondo sets up a whole lot faster! I will have to do some sanding and some smoothing then I'll add another coat to clean up and make it look nice. So far the repairs look a lot better than the rusted out holes I had before.
All of the rust has been removed and or else neutralized with naval jelly and primed.
I wish I had, and knew how to use a welder but cutting and riviting has to be the way I have to go for now. I used a 3 inch wide peice of fiberglass cloth to cover the 'joint'. I mudded it out about 6" wide and will clean it up and skim it out wider tomorow.


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## Jim S.

Shoot, mine is a $350 12-foot rustbucket cattle trailer that is not only where I started but where I intend to stay, as long as it rolls down the road to the auction barn. I am not going to put a lot of time into it, as I know the only thing that would really last is rewelding new metal into those areas. Function over looks.


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## ColumbiaSC.

Jim S. said:


> Shoot, mine is a $350 12-foot rustbucket cattle trailer that is not only where I started but where I intend to stay, as long as it rolls down the road to the auction barn. I am not going to put a lot of time into it, as I know the only thing that would really last is rewelding new metal into those areas. Function over looks.



I know but this for my DD's and DS's horses, we are doing 4-H, parades and such. So happy to be independant and no longer borrowing anymore!
I just want to make it safe for our horses and look good while doing it. Besides it lets me practice doing bodywork and painting, it does't have to be perfect. I am going to let her choose the trailers color (within reason). We live for the kids.

(progress update)Been working and have not worked on the trailer for the last few days.


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## ColumbiaSC.

Update!
Me and Kelly (DW) worked on the lights today. After 2 hours, (fast time in my thought looking back) we got All of the lights working , or at least the sockets have power!!!!
Grandma and PA-PA had the plug I needed ( to hook up to the truck), not a little flat one but a big round one so it has been a 'freebe so far'! 
I have to buy some bulbs and covers, but the brake lights/clearance/turn signals are all working! It felt like Christmas seeing all of those lights burning! 
I will have to connect the trailer brakes soon but this truck can handle stopping it till then!
I will post some pictures soon, I promise!


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## mwhit

Jim S. said:


> As a FORMER body shop guy, I'll tell you yer just wasting yer time with Bondo and mesh over rusted out areas. They will simply rust right back through in a matter of a couple years. If you insist on not welding in new metal, then go get some boat fiberglass kits and patch with that fiberglass and resin. It will last maybe 7-10 years with that before rusting through again.
> 
> The real, permanent solution is some scrap sheet metal and a welder. BTW, don't patch load-bearing areas like steps, etc. with either Bondo or fiberglass.



I agree. 

If it were me and I couldn't weld (I can't BTW) I would buy some 3-M (or similar) body panel glue and glue in patch panels. It works much better than bondo or fiberglass for load bearing areas-- I've seen it used on the box sides of farm trucks and it holds up very well. I believe a tube of it costs about $20-$25.

Michelle


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## ColumbiaSC.

We took our first road trip to a ' parade and showdeo' today, the trailer pulled great with no real problems other than the Bare Mare did not want to load up in the dark. I had DW/Kelly pull the van around and shine the headlights up in the trailer so the Baremare could 'see' better. Strawberry loaded like a champ after she could look around. 
I am thinking about some brighter interior lights as an upgrade. There is a over head light inside but it is not very brite.

With the bondo and primer I think I came in first in the 'UGLY TRAILER Class'! But we made the show and did not have to 'hitch' a ride. We can come and go as we want too, and that is a great feeling!
:hobbyhors


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## ColumbiaSC.

Update,
I did a little more sanding/grinding.. I found a twisted wire cup shaped wheel for the hand held grinder, I should have had this baby from the get-go! 
I hauled the Baremare and Star in the trailer about 15 miles each way this SAT. Thanks goodness everything went well. Star is a BEAR to load but after his is loaded he is good. Two horses and a couple of miles, one show-deo and DD won High point and best costume, total $150 in savings bonds- well worth the trip! 
I never knew the trailer was back there and it 'pulled' like a champ! 
I just wish there was a catagory for 'ugliest trailer,, we would be a shoe in!
As for primer, do I have to go to the auto paint store or can I get some from Lowes? I would like to get some paint on this baby (trailer) other than brown spotty primer.
I have gallons of Kilz interior/exterior house primer but I want to do it right the first time.
Thanks in advance once again


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## unioncreek

I'd clean up the rust as good as you can, treat it with phosphoric acid and then use Rustoleum primer on it. You could also use the Rustoleum paint on it over the primer?

Bobg


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## ColumbiaSC.

Is phosphoric acid the same thing as Navel jelly? How much should it cost? 
I have used some of that (navel J) but it does not go very far. I have been sanding and spraying rustoleum primer also. The Navel jelly I used turned the rust black and should be ready to prime/fill/paint.
Thanks, again everybody


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## unioncreek

The phosphoric acid comes in a quart plastic bottle, the acid is blue/green in color. One name brand is Ospho, but theirs others. I think the last time I bought some it was about $4.00/quart. I usually find it in the concrete sect at the hardware store.

Bobg


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## ColumbiaSC.

does it neuturlize the rust like Navel J? If so I will get some,, the N-J was like $4.00 for a 1/2 pint or less!


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## unioncreek

Yes, it netrualizes the rust. I just put it in a spray bottle and wet the rusty area leave it overnight, it will become black and sometimes crusty. I then use a wire brush or wire wheel to clean up the area, sand and prime.

Bobg


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## Blu3duk

unioncreek said:


> Yes, it netrualizes the rust. I just put it in a spray bottle and wet the rusty area leave it overnight, it will become black and sometimes crusty. I then use a wire brush or wire wheel to clean up the area, sand and prime.
> 
> Bobg


And some folks wonder why their stomache is upset after drinking "COKE" which has a fair amount of it in their formula! leave a nail in glass of coke for a few days and you will see it go away!

now I would not spray coke on rust, cause the sugar in their would keep things sticky..... just adding in some trival bits of wonderment..... 

Ive been watching this project and hope there are a few more pictures forthcoming! [understanding of course that it is not always possible to remember to take a picture of the progression of a labor of love while laboring away] this is a great thread for many folks to read!

William


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## ColumbiaSC.

Blu3duk said:


> And some folks wonder why their stomache is upset after drinking "COKE" which has a fair amount of it in their formula! leave a nail in glass of coke for a few days and you will see it go away!
> 
> now I would not spray coke on rust, cause the sugar in their would keep things sticky..... just adding in some trival bits of wonderment.....
> 
> Ive been watching this project and hope there are a few more pictures forthcoming! [understanding of course that it is not always possible to remember to take a picture of the progression of a labor of love while laboring away] this is a great thread for many folks to read!
> 
> William


???, I should have posted some new pics by now but we have been sho'deoing and 4-H'ing like crazy
I am not sure what your post means, can you clairfy?


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## ColumbiaSC.

I wish I could get my hands on a sand blaster, I called about renting one but no luck! 

Here is a short funny story, Back in SC we had a short (altitudel'aly challenged) friend and we called him Sand Blaster,, the reason was because he was very short and everytime he 'passed gas' he could blast the sand! hahaha He is a Fire department chief and is a great guy who can take a joke!

How much would a used or new sand blaster cost and would I need something more than a air compressor?
Thanks again.


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