# rewiring a 1981 home



## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

I just contracted to buy a foreclosed home in the country. Its had the wiring ripped out, I'm not sure of the extent, but am going with a retired electician friend of a friend in a few days to look at it. 

I'm trying to understand how the rewiring process will work prior to the trip down there, not so much to try to appear knowledgeable as to better understand the assessment and ask questions when we get there. 

Two questions I already have is, 1 When new wiring is put in, will entire sections of drywall be taken out, or will they just cut out a "trough" through the drywall to install the wire through it, or how will they go about geting the wire in to the wall?

2. Is it possible to just run wire from the pole outside to the box inside, then to a light fixture or two, an outlet or two (like one for the refrigerator and one for my computer), so i can at least move in,then piecemeal the rest of the installation in a few more phases. ?

I'm going to take an electrical class next month at the local votech so I can at least understand diagrams, tools, etc. I have another electrician friend who lives far off who swears he can walk me through the entire rewire over the phone and email.

Are there any other questions or special considerations I need to ask the electrician on our trip out there next week?


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

harmon said:


> I just contracted to buy a foreclosed home in the country. Its had the wiring ripped out, I'm not sure of the extent, but am going with a retired electician friend of a friend in a few days to look at it.
> 
> I'm trying to understand how the rewiring process will work prior to the trip down there, not so much to try to appear knowledgeable as to better understand the assessment and ask questions when we get there.
> 
> ...



Question 1.
Without seeing the house, but with an educated guess, yes, most of the drywall will be coming off, for several reasons.
If scavengers went in there for scrap copper, the walls will be trashed anyway. Without an existing wire to pull the new wire thru, like a stud wall, the easiest way is just to go to the bare walls. Also, thieves really like copper plumbing too, so what are the chances there a wonderful, wet surprise waiting behind that wall if you don't inspect it and just snake thru a new wire?:sob:
Another reason is even if the wire is still there, what if it was damaged (shorted) in the attempt?
Finally, you may have another design in mind for how and where you want your switches and outlets.
Better off starting from scratch, it'll save time and money in the long run.

Question 2.
Yes, one of the first things your friend will do is run a temporary service line. I used one for about ten years building the home I live in now. I just got one inspection a year to keep the permit active.


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## wharton (Oct 9, 2011)

The money here is going to be in the labor, and the sheetrock repair. With this in mind, trying to cut corners by reusing any short runs that are still intact, or attempting to fish wiring down insulated walls, etc..... is probably penny wise, and pound foolish, as Mr. Franklin once said. 

To give you some perspective. It's nothing for a two man crew to rough in wiring in a new, simple house ,in a day. OTOH, I know a contractor who specializes in old house rewiring in one of the oldest cities in N.A. He has days where a crew of four doesn't use up a roll of Romex in a day, and spends the next two repairing and re-plastering the damage they created.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

thanks mr wharton you convinced me. Now I'm surprised my electrician friend advised me otherwise. Youre the second one here to say to replace everything but the I didnt understand how long about it would take to install the wire. After all the old stuff is cleaned out of the walls, and the new layed in, then all that needs done is putting the walls back up, right?

If I help a friend do the job it should be now more than 2 or 3 days for a 1500 sf house, right?

famrbrown how big is the house that took you ten years to build?


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## farmrbrown (Jun 25, 2012)

harmon said:


> thanks mr wharton you convinced me. Now I'm surprised my electrician friend advised me otherwise. Youre the second one here to say to replace everything but the I didnt understand how long about it would take to install the wire. After all the old stuff is cleaned out of the walls, and the new layed in, then all that needs done is putting the walls back up, right?
> 
> If I help a friend do the job it should be now more than 2 or 3 days for a 1500 sf house, right?
> 
> famrbrown how big is the house that took you ten years to build?


You should be about right on your estimate, a few days, maybe a week depending on how hard you work and your skill level at everything.

My house?
A little less than 1000 sq ft.
And I didn't say it took 10 years, I said I kept temporary power on it for 10 years getting the final inspection C of O.
It took closer to 20, LOL.
A week in the summer, a week in the winter, here and there....a 600 mile trip one way.


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## Allen W (Aug 2, 2008)

You might want to consider adding some additional electrical out lets with all the added electronic gadgets and chargers that we use today compared to 1981.


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

The whole thing will be easier if you just budget $10K and tell the electrician to do the job right. It could come in less, it could come in more, but it isn't an area to skimp.


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

New wiring isn't that expensive and then you know what you have. If the wall is open it's not very hard to run wire and it would be a good time to add extra plugins. I would plan on replacing it all.

By tearing off the sheet rock you'll have an opportunity to bring the insulation up to the new standard if you find it lacking. 40 years ago people used to scrimp on insulation. If the sheets are horizontal you can probably reach most of the wiring with only taking the bottom sheet off unless you need to add insulation.


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## Steve in PA (Nov 25, 2011)

My home was built in the 1870's so I'm not sure if this is helpful for you.

The wiring in the home was a mish-mash of knob/tube, aluminum, and whatever various generations of hanymen had laying around n the century+ since the house was built. The service was a single 60 amp breaker "box" with 2 30 amp fuses.

My first project in the home was to completely rewire it in the quickest and most efficient manner. Working in the evening after my daytime real job it took me about 3 months but I now trust every bit of wiring and have 200 amp service.

There are times my wife complains gently about how long a project takes. I remind her that working on the house is my second ( or 3rd, 4th, 5th...) job and that guttikng a house while living in it is difficult.

I didn't pay someone to wire because at the time I didn't have the finances and had the ability to do it myself. If I had the finances I would have paid someone and guess 2 weeks or less would have been all the time it would take a crew with no one living in the house.


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

I would be sure to find out things like how many outlets per foot of wall and height of outlets, etc. to make sure you are following the new code. In MN we need to get electrical work inspected so that means following the code AND leaving the wall exposed for the inspector to examine your wiring. It's not difficult but it has to be done to code.


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## Guest (Dec 26, 2013)

Was a lot of drywall destroyed by whoever ripped the wire out ? In 1991 I bought a house that was built in 1982 . It was extremely well insulated & all the wiring was modern .


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

harmon said:


> thanks mr wharton you convinced me. Now I'm surprised my electrician friend advised me otherwise. Youre the second one here to say to replace everything but the I didnt understand how long about it would take to install the wire. After all the old stuff is cleaned out of the walls, and the new layed in, then all that needs done is putting the walls back up, right?
> 
> If I help a friend do the job it should be now more than 2 or 3 days for a 1500 sf house, right?
> 
> famrbrown how big is the house that took you ten years to build?


I should note my friend that told me to keep the wire thats in the house and not replace is is a different electrical friend than the one that is going with me to look at the place today.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Allen W said:


> You might want to consider adding some additional electrical out lets with all the added electronic gadgets and chargers that we use today compared to 1981.


I had considered that and some of those outlets that have speaker wire outlets in them so you run the speaker wire through the house instead. I'm trying to read up on that now. Ive found two types of outlets you can run speaker wire through, one has a knob you tightten to secure the wire, the other has the switches you mash to insert the wire, then release to hold the wire tight. 

Its alot to try to learn but I have a couple weeks. any ideas of what I can do while I have the drywall off are appreciated.


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## Guest (Dec 31, 2013)

An electrician actually inspecting the wiring can give you a much better idea of what needs to be done than people guessing here on the forum .


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## John_Canada (Aug 17, 2013)

Running a wire in an existing wall without much damage is not a problem. You can even do it with no holes. The problem is attaching (stapling) the wire within 8 inches from the box for code (passing inspection). I personally would certainly rip walls and ceilings if not just to know whats behind there and everything is new. The other problem is with fireblocks, you need a $100 drill bill/puller to get thru those if its an old design. Our current house had this done and I know when we go to sell it will be a HUGE selling point that the place was basically gutted to the studs and brought to current code.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

fishhead said:


> New wiring isn't that expensive and then you know what you have. If the wall is open it's not very hard to run wire and it would be a good time to add extra plugins. I would plan on replacing it all.
> 
> By tearing off the sheet rock you'll have an opportunity to bring the insulation up to the new standard if you find it lacking. 40 years ago people used to scrimp on insulation. If the sheets are horizontal you can probably reach most of the wiring with only taking the bottom sheet off unless you need to add insulation.


An electrician will know if the insulation is lacking won't he? He works around it everyday. Or is that the next thing I need to learn about? I was looking at some ictures my brother took of the place when we were there and I didnt notice butt there are several walls that arent damaged. Also there are several outbuildings and none of them are damaged from what i can tell


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Steve in PA said:


> My home was built in the 1870's so I'm not sure if this is helpful for you.
> 
> The wiring in the home was a mish-mash of knob/tube, aluminum, and whatever various generations of hanymen had laying around n the century+ since the house was built. The service was a single 60 amp breaker "box" with 2 30 amp fuses.
> 
> ...


why did you set up a 200 amp service instead of 100? and whats the square footage of the place?


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

fishhead said:


> I would be sure to find out things like how many outlets per foot of wall and height of outlets, etc. to make sure you are following the new code. In MN we need to get electrical work inspected so that means following the code AND leaving the wall exposed for the inspector to examine your wiring. It's not difficult but it has to be done to code.


I'll find out about the code but I know it wont be inspected at least not for a while. The place is in the country in Oklahoma and Oklahomans arent really into inspections. It the only state I've lived in where the cars arent inspected. And non law enforcement people open carry guns and big knives and the cops dont question them. But I will see if there is a code of some sort I need to be adhering to


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

WV Hillbilly said:


> Was a lot of drywall destroyed by whoever ripped the wire out ? In 1991 I bought a house that was built in 1982 . It was extremely well insulated & all the wiring was modern .


at the time I though most of the rooms had damaged firewalls but my brother sent me a bunch of pictures I will post later today and it looks like it wasnt as bad as I had thought. But glad to hear about the insulation


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

WV Hillbilly said:


> An electrician actually inspecting the wiring can give you a much better idea of what needs to be done than people guessing here on the forum .


We went out to look at it last week and apparently its land locked. The road up to my placed was gated and locked with a note on it by the owner. turns out there was never an easement and I guess the guy tht owns the land around it thinks he owns it too now or something. The bank that owns the house is taking care of it 

but I had another person tell me that laying new wire was simple, not like having to trouble shoot or do a partial install. and that I should do it myself. I'm taking a basic electrical course at the local votech next month.

Hopefully I can get some guidance and maybe someone to check in on me every couple days til its finished.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

John_Canada said:


> Running a wire in an existing wall without much damage is not a problem. You can even do it with no holes. The problem is attaching (stapling) the wire within 8 inches from the box for code (passing inspection). I personally would certainly rip walls and ceilings if not just to know whats behind there and everything is new. The other problem is with fireblocks, you need a $100 drill bill/puller to get thru those if its an old design. Our current house had this done and I know when we go to sell it will be a HUGE selling point that the place was basically gutted to the studs and brought to current code.


thats what Ive been told. I hope I can do it myself. and it would be nice if I could tie some new wire onto the old and pull through the holes that are already there. Is that even possible? can drywall be patched or does the whole section need replaced.?


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## fishhead (Jul 19, 2006)

An electrician will be able to tell you what kind and thickness insulation they found if they open the wall.

A sheet rock installer told me that they hang sheetrock sideways with the 8' side parallel with the floor. If that's the case in your house you would be able to just remove the bottom sheets to access most of the wiring if you don't need to add insulation or are working on interior walls.

It may be possible to attach the new wire to the old wire and then use the old wire to pull the new wire IF they didn't staple it to the studs. Our code requires stapling before and after each outlet.

Our county has no building code but we do have an state electrical code that requires inspection by the state inspector prior to covering the wiring.


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## Guest (Jan 5, 2014)

The house I bought that was built in 1982 was well built , well insulated & wired with modern romex . There would have been no point in replacing any wiring that wasn't damaged .


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## topofmountain (Nov 1, 2013)

If your in an area with Codes & a building Dept you will most likely have to bring the house wiring up to the latest UBC Electrical Codes.


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## Sawmill Jim (Dec 5, 2008)

Romex is just a patented name brand but has become a catch all name like asking for a coke :help:

Most modern houses are wired with a loop left in the wall meaning you can give it a big pull and have enough wire to install another receptial .Why tear out good walls or ceilings . ? That makes no sense .If you have a crawl space you can run a main run and set a j box and run your branches up from the bottom or to first circuit then remove the base board and trench a grove for your wire to the other outlets . If you have the attic space you can do the inside walls from the top the same way . I know many tricks for fishing wire up or down walls .Have done old house re wiring many times .And for those in love with inspectors yes they were up to code and inspected .

All holes in sheet rock are easily fixed if you know how . And yes there is no reason you or anyone can't do simple house wiring . 

If you want to use the old box spaces or can just gently knock it out and use a remodel box back in the same space .


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Sawmill Jim said:


> Romex is just a patented name brand but has become a catch all name like asking for a coke :help:
> 
> Most modern houses are wired with a loop left in the wall meaning you can give it a big pull and have enough wire to install another receptial .Why tear out good walls or ceilings . ? That makes no sense .If you have a crawl space you can run a main run and set a j box and run your branches up from the bottom or to first circuit then remove the base board and trench a grove for your wire to the other outlets . If you have the attic space you can do the inside walls from the top the same way . I know many tricks for fishing wire up or down walls .Have done old house re wiring many times .And for those in love with inspectors yes they were up to code and inspected .
> 
> ...


Theres no foundation its on a slab. I thought when the wire was jerked out, any wire left would be stretched and possibly warped or broken. and that is why it would be better to replace it all


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## Sawmill Jim (Dec 5, 2008)

harmon said:


> Theres no foundation its on a slab. I thought when the wire was jerked out, any wire left would be stretched and possibly warped or broken. and that is why it would be better to replace it all


Should be able to tell it would take some kind of heavy duty pulling to stretch that wire with out ripping out the box and wall board . You could still trench some wire behind the base boards and the other up and down the inside walls.By this i mean drilling a hole in the top plate and dropping a wire down to your plug box :bow: 

If it was wired to the code here the loop is made then a staple right above the loop .Would be about 9'' of wire then the staple . You can put j boxes in the attic they just got to have a way to get back to them if need be .


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## Steve in PA (Nov 25, 2011)

harmon said:


> why did you set up a 200 amp service instead of 100? and whats the square footage of the place?


MOAR POWERRR

200 is a defacto standard and something that appeals to buyers. There is plenty of room for expansion. I have nearly every room on a dedicated 20a breaker, a few dedicated circuits, and outbuilding supplied by a 100a sub panel and my garage works out of that.

It's better to overshoot than wish you had made something bigger.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

I am uploading pictures of all electrical damage I saw. I dont know if it will help anything or add to the thread but if it does please elaborate. 

Especially if theres anything in particular you can think of I need to note or inspect or take pictures of on my next trip to the house.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

part two pictures of electrical damage


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

I cant figure out how to delete them


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## Sawmill Jim (Dec 5, 2008)

Looks like come could just be moved over to the next stud and patch the holes . Another thing we have done in the past on bad damage is do what you have to as in trenching to fix the wiring then just put 1\4 or 3\8 sheet rock over the whole wall . Holes in sheet rock are a easy fix just square up the hole ,then cut you a new piece one inch bigger all the way around . Then score the back side one inch all the way around leaving a paper tab this makes for autonomic taping apply mud and away you go . :clap::clap:


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## Steve in PA (Nov 25, 2011)

Looks like a very amature strip job. My guess is he unscrewed the outlet and pulled as hard as the could. Where it goes through a stud or is stapled it got hung up so they just it it off there.

If you have time, I'd cut the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the drywall out, run the new ckts either low through the studs or drop them from the attic (whichever is more appropriate), get it inspected, then fix the drywall.

I think this way was mentioned before and t won't take you long. Heck, you could get a dry way crew in there quite cheap I'd imagine and hey would be done in a day or two.


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

From original post:

"*I just contracted to buy a foreclosed home in the country.* Its had the wiring ripped out, I'm not sure of the extent, but am going with a retired electician friend of a friend in a few days to look at it. "




harmon said:


> We went out to look at it last week and *apparently its land locked. The road up to my placed was gated and locked with a note on it by the owner. turns out there was never an easement *and I guess the guy tht owns the land around it thinks he owns it too now or something. The bank that owns the house is taking care of it
> 
> but I had another person tell me that laying new wire was simple, not like having to trouble shoot or do a partial install. and that I should do it myself. I'm taking a basic electrical course at the local votech next month.
> 
> Hopefully I can get some guidance and maybe someone to check in on me every couple days til its finished.


In Alabama it is _illegal_ to sell a landlocked parcel.

Here's the thing - find out if that is the case where the property is located as well, get your money back, and WALK. *Even if you do succeed in a legal challenge, you are walking into an adversarial relationship with a close neighbor. You did not do your due diligence and it is kicking you in the butt.*


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Harry Chickpea said:


> From original post:
> 
> "*I just contracted to buy a foreclosed home in the country.* Its had the wiring ripped out, I'm not sure of the extent, but am going with a retired electrician friend of a friend in a few days to look at it. "
> 
> ...


Not sure how you figured how I failed to do my due diligence, (or failed to do anything else for that matter) or how you figure anything is kicking me in the butt, but I dont think its legal in any state in the US to sell landlocked property (I know it isnt in Oklahoma). If it isnt, and the bank can't get him to sign or sell an easement, or force him to, or I can't, then its a pretty simple situation. It cant be sold and I'll get my earnest money back. We are a *far* way from that however. 

I dont know this guy is a close neighbor, or a neighbor at all, I just know he bought up 380 acres surrounding me. I wouldnt let a selfish prick keep me from raising my family on my dream house with outbuildings, chicken coop and ten acres for 35000$. In a county my ancestors pioneered before statehood. 

Why would you? I may end up asking him to meet with me over a cup of coffee or something and try to figure out what his problem is. He has no animals on that strip of land, or nice alfalfa I need to drive through, or anything else. 


It would behoove him to have me living there next to his land, driving through and along it daily. I have a background in physical (and personal) security and would be great at making sure no one was messing with his fences, or vandalised his property, etc. 

Right now its the banks house, its their responsibility to try to get the easement. They should try pretty hard given they will never be able to sell the house without the easement. Unless its to the guy with the land around it, but he never made an offer on the place or otherwise showed any interest in it. At any rate, thanks anyway for the advice


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

I would not contract to buy any property, and especially a repo without a title search, which would have shown the lack of easement and any liens (tax or otherwise) to be cleared before purchase. That is what I mean by due diligence.

You stated that you would sit down with the access owner over a cup of coffee and if that didn't work you would tough it out. I wouldn't go there.

As it happens, when we were looking for property a few years back I ran across a very similar situation to yours that I passed on. The house was in reasonable shape, there was a drive across a neighbor's land, but that was not the recorded easement. The easement was directly over a gully that was about fifteen feet deep and that possibility of filling it without going over the narrow easement was impossible. I attempted to secure an easement from the landowner along the established drive, but she was mid-stage dementia at the time and any legal documents she signed would be invalid if the offspring contested. I walked away and had no regrets.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Harry Chickpea said:


> From original post:
> 
> "*
> 
> Here's the thing - find out if that is the case where the property is located as well, get your money back, and WALK. Even if you do succeed in a legal challenge, you are walking into an adversarial relationship with a close neighbor. You did not do your due diligence and it is kicking you in the butt.*


*

Looks like North Alabama boys are pretty quick to surrender these days - or at least advise other to do so. And it looks like North Alabama boys are pretty quick to call other men failures (online anyway). And apparently some North Alabama boys dont understand what butt kicking is either

For the record, the survey done by the title and abstract company (which is still in process) is part of due diligence.*


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Harry Chickpea said:


> From original post:
> 
> "*I just contracted to buy a foreclosed home in the country.* Its had the wiring ripped out, I'm not sure of the extent, but am going with a retired electician friend of a friend in a few days to look at it. "
> 
> ...


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Sawmill Jim said:


> Looks like come could just be moved over to the next stud and patch the holes . Another thing we have done in the past on bad damage is do what you have to as in trenching to fix the wiring then just put 1\4 or 3\8 sheet rock over the whole wall . Holes in sheet rock are a easy fix just square up the hole ,then cut you a new piece one inch bigger all the way around . Then score the back side one inch all the way around leaving a paper tab this makes for autonomic taping apply mud and away you go . :clap::clap:


I'm copying and pasting all these ideas to another document to take with me on the electrical inspection. so thanks


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

harmon said:


> Harry Chickpea said:
> 
> 
> > From original post:
> ...


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## JPKeenan007 (Jan 11, 2014)

Ouch on those pictures from the damage.

Electrical/Wiring is not an area you want to go cheap on. I did general contracting for a few years and I will call someone else to run lines. Replacing a beat socket or putting in a ceiling fan (if the light fixture was already there)....

Depending on how your electrician is running and fishing the lines you don't need to tear all the drywall out. If you're only tearing out a few feet up from the floor (electric socket level) you can stretch out a single sheet of drywall for a while.... the pain in the butt is mudding, sanding, lather rinse repeat...


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

WV Hillbilly said:


> Was a lot of drywall destroyed by whoever ripped the wire out ? In 1991 I bought a house that was built in 1982 . It was extremely well insulated & all the wiring was modern .


I put up pictures of it all after you asked that. Would you say that was alot of drywall damaged? It doesnt look that bad to me but I dont have anything to compare it to.


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## hornetd (Nov 1, 2011)

harmon said:


> I put up pictures of it all after you asked that. Would you say that was alot of drywall damaged? It doesnt look that bad to me but I dont have anything to compare it to.


I am an electrician by craft and have been in the trade for forty five years. I haven't done many total rewires on finished homes though so don't take my advise as gospel. I have had a lot of luck just removing baseboards and the sheet rock or plaster behind them, drilling holes through the bottom of the studs, and running cable to the stud channel needed. Since any fire blocking will be about halfway up the wall, and modern practice is to install switches at forty four inches above finished floor, you should be able to get to the switch locations without having to drill through fire blocking. By removing the trim around doorways you may be able to trench for the run to the ceiling light behind the trim in order to conceal the repair. 

For walls that are not hollow there is a product called Wiremold that can be installed in place of the cap molding on the basboard or in place of the baseboard itself. It is a wire-way with removable covers that allows you to install outlets and switches anywhere along the run that you need them. When you run the baseboard substitute type on hollow walls you can fish both switches and receptacle outlets up into the wall from behind the raceway with relative ease. Installing the Four Thousand series Wiremold in place of baseboards gives the ultimate in future proofing because of the ease of making changes later but that is usually not warranted if you wire a house carefully in the first place. But in an occupancy that is likely to undergo a lot of changes in use, Surface Raceway can be worth it's higher installation cost. Not only can it be installed in place of baseboard but also high under cabinets or in place of back splash trim. 

FWIW YMWV

--
Tom Horne


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## Grogan14 (Feb 11, 2014)

John_Canada said:


> Running a wire in an existing wall without much damage is not a problem. You can even do it with no holes. The problem is attaching (stapling) the wire within 8 inches from the box for code (passing inspection)...


You are not required to and do not, nor is it feasible to, staple NM-B (Romex) at the device box when fishing through existing walls. Old work boxes all have integral clamps.


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## Fire-Man (Apr 30, 2005)

Me Personally, If I was Going to buy this home-----as long as nothing has been damaged with the wiring at the meter base----to the breaker box inside----I would cut off the all the breakers inside the breaker box----get me a couple of receptacles next to the breaker box so I would have a place to plug in drop cords, get the power company to cut the power in-----and get to work on the inside----as time allows, Leaving The Inspector Out The Picture. But I know how to wire a home, do it safely and I am one that Does Not Want Someone's Nose In My Business---Unless I need Them In My Business. 

You Will Have To Go Which Ever Route----You feel Comfortable With! Looking at the pictures---You got alot of work ahead of you, just repairing around the electrial boxes after the wiring is done----even if you did not have to tear out more sheetrock------but looks like you will. Keep in mind, if you doing the sheetrock repairs yourself it would be better to replace a whole 4 x12ft section than to have to repair/patch 3 or 4 places in that same amount of space. In the Kitchen, you can repair the wiring then put up a back splash to cover the damage----that would save Alot of time with sheetrock. Good Luck


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

JPKeenan007 said:


> Ouch on those pictures from the damage.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




My brother bought the 8 acres north of me so no more easement issues.

Last week an army buddy of mine came out to the house with an assistant and worked all day. He asked how I wanted to run the wire and I remembered your post so we cut out two feet from the bottom of the walls. I'll post pic later.

We ran wire from the service outside to new panel box and 220 AC. we ran wire along the north living room wall and to the fridge and 4 ceiling lights and attic fan.

Now I have to connect receps 

Thanks for everyone's help


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

Fire-Man said:


> Me Personally, If I was Going to buy this home-----as long as nothing has been damaged with the wiring at the meter base----to the breaker box inside----I would cut off the all the breakers inside the breaker box----get me a couple of receptacles next to the breaker box so I would have a place to plug in drop cords, get the power company to cut the power in-----and get to work on the inside----as time allows, Leaving The Inspector Out The Picture. But I know how to wire a home, do it safely and I am one that Does Not Want Someone's Nose In My Business---Unless I need Them In My Business.
> 
> You Will Have To Go Which Ever Route----You feel Comfortable With! Looking at the pictures---You got alot of work ahead of you, just repairing around the electrial boxes after the wiring is done----even if you did not have to tear out more sheetrock------but looks like you will. Keep in mind, if you doing the sheetrock repairs yourself it would be better to replace a whole 4 x12ft section than to have to repair/patch 3 or 4 places in that same amount of space. In the Kitchen, you can repair the wiring then put up a back splash to cover the damage----that would save Alot of time with sheetrock. Good Luck



We had to get a new breaker box and breakers

Exactly how would we do the backsplash to save time? We would still need to Sheetrock it wouldn't we

Thanks


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## riggerjack (Apr 21, 2014)

Just do a tile backsplash. Screw thin durock in place and apply tiles, then grout. It'll look better than Drywall, and take about the same amount of time. Tile is much more DIY friendly than Drywall.


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## harmon (Jun 15, 2013)

riggerjack said:


> Just do a tile backsplash. Screw thin durock in place and apply tiles, then grout. It'll look better than Drywall, and take about the same amount of time. Tile is much more DIY friendly than Drywall.



Thanks. I'm having to look up a lot of these terms but it's all helping. 

The only Duroc I've heard of is a pig


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