# Another question for the mule folk



## lonelyfarmgirl

My question is about feed and how you go about it. 

I keep reading things about what to and how to feed a mule. Everything says they need less than a horse, don't over feed or they will turn crabby and unmanageable, don't feed them grass clippings or they will choke, only feed two flakes or slabs of hay twice a day or they will get fat.:hair

So does this mean if I hobble the thing on my lawn, it will get fat from too much grass, and that it might choke if there is some clippings left from when I last mowed the grass?

So I can't turn it in with the cows or goat herd because it will eat too much hay or too much baleage and get fat and crabby?

I should never offer a windfall apple cause then they will be mad for treats? (that came from Meredith Hodges)

Do I have to dry lot the thing so it doesn't eat itself into sweet oblivion?

How do you feed your mules, what do you feed them, what should you NOT feed them, and where are they all day and night?

Sorry!:hair

Oh, one more, how hard is it to train to a pickett hobble? Just put it on, tie it up and away we go or is there something special that needs to be done?


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## wr

I'm not sure where you're getting your information but grass clippings are bad for horses because they'll founder and mules can too but they also don't need that much compressed feed. 

We just keep ours out on decent pasture (not lawn, which has little nutritional value) when we have pasture and in the winter, they're fed with the cows. 

You have to watch the information you're getting because it comes from various locations and often people forget that a cold climate changes feeding rules. Two flakes of hay might work nice in Florida, but it's not going to keep mine alive when it's -40.


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## SueMc

Mules are not hard to keep or feed. Mine have good pasture. I feed a small amt of pellets to the mules because I have a couple of geriatric horses who need the extra and get pellets. It's more of treat for the mules. I hay everyone the same in the winter. They get all my extra apples, melons, zucchini, carrots, etc that I'm willing to hand over. My mules do seem to need less food to maintain their weight. Since the mules are below the horses in the pecking order they do not get the opportunity to steal extra food from anyone except from each other.
There's no mystery about mules but a lot of misconceptions. If any of mine have been crabby it's been towards each other over food. They're extremely smart and more reliable and trustworthy than any horse I've ever owned. People say they're stubborn. That's only because a mule can't be beat into submission the way a horse can. A mule will also remember the rudeness/meanness that a person deals them. They are not anymore pushy or in my personal space than any horse I have is and that is because they are not allowed to be.


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## Minelson

I feel your frustration. I have the same problem with my Mini-Donk. Some say 1 flake twice a day or they get too fat. Some say no grain some say they must have some grain. Some say if you let them out on pasture and they will get fat. i have also had worries about grass clippings after I mow with the horses. So far they have done fine on the pasture after I mow it. My Mini-Donk gets free choice hay all day. She is in with the goats at night and out free ranging the 10 acres during the day. To keep her weight down while pregnant (I was terrified of a big foal with difficult delivery) I let them all out only during the afternoon/evening hours. But they always have grass hay available. I am giving her a handful of grain 2 times a day because she is nursing...just keeping an eye on her weight. 2 vets said she was in good weight so at least I have something to go by. I keep treats to a bare minimum. I have mini goats that I have to do the same thing with. It's not perfect...my animals are more on the heavy side than they probably should be. But no one (except Frankie the goat) is too fat. It's something I just have to be mindful of. Some of my friends have mules and they are on pasture 24/7 with horses in the summer and on dry lot in the winter with 24/7 round bales. They also put them on harvested corn fields to eat the corn stalks. 
I think you are going to have to just "feel" your way through it. If he gets crabby and mean (never heard of such a thing) from an apple then stop giving him an apple. If he is getting fat...cut back on something. If he shows any signs of choking on something...stop that. My Mini-Donk chokes on alfalfa pellets...so no more. I think the grass clippings thing is if you dump a bag full out for them to eat...they might gorge on that colic and/or choke. Just my thoughts....


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## arnie

Being easy keepers it is easy with rich feed and grain or treates to geta mule fattend up and like children to much sugar gets em more rambunchus .but each has a personality of its own .common sence and the eye of the master are better guides than old time rumores often spread buy those who have no experince with livestock .mules are not just of 1 type they can be a cross between a mini pony and a donkey that will never move much faster than a ocachanol trot that will be fat on rough pasture or a long lean standerdbred and mammoth jack that moves around at 15 mph and needs more calories just to maintain good condition .


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## jennigrey

The problem with grass clippings is twofold. Firstly, we have the same problem with any freshly-mown hay: it ferments. Grasses have sugar in them. When the grass is cut, the sugar begins to ferment and must go through a curing process. After we cut hay and let it dry to below a certain moisture content before baling, that is primary curing. However, I will not feed hay that has been baled for a month or less because it is still what is called "hot" hay.... still too much sugar and fermentation. The hay needs to cure for at least a month after baling or you risk upsetting the horse's stomach.

I've known people who feed lawn clippings but they are careful to do it immediately after cutting and only cut/feed as much as can be eaten in a short period of time.

Secondly, the mechanical problem of choking on fine grass clippings is quite real, but can be alleviated if you spread it out over a larger area. Of course, some horses are just more prone to choking on things than others. 

Feeding lawn trimmings is risky but there are ways to mitigate the risk.

As for feeding treats by hand - I have horses that I can feed treats to and they will still respect me just fine in the morning. However, I do have one horse who turns into a monster if she gets fed treats by hand. I am a strict disciplinarian but this one horse gets rude and lippy and pushy if she is hand-fed a treat. Less so with me, but other people risk getting bit if the pushy horse suspects a treat might be forthcoming and there are other horses around that she feels the need to compete with.


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## dlskidmore

The thing I'd worry about with lawn clippings is that grass cut short every week is very stressed grass, and can produce some toxins to try to discourage such frequent grazing. (It doesn't know that the lawn mower has no taste buds.) If you let your grass grow to 6" or so before mowing, like rotational grazing recommendations say, it should be less stressed and more healthy to feed than trimmings off a well manicured lawn.

Cattle deaths blamed on natural poisoning Â» Local News Â» Gainesville Daily Register


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## CIW

Some of the things that the OP is saying can, under certain circumstances, happen. But can also be prevented and most are very uncommon.
If I'm working an animal (this goes for horses also). In the beginning I'm going to slowly increase the feed intake as I watch his body change. As a general rule a mule will flurish on about 3/4's that of a horse in a similar situation. A mule will also do well on lessor quality food. I've had a young mule on the picket line all summer, eating weeds, and is in really good shape. They get that from the donkey side. That being said, if you are feeding high powered feed. Don't feed as much. I even know folks that add a little clean straw to occupy the mule. They are very oral and will often develop a habit of eating wood because they seem to need to chew. We throw our christmas tree in the corral for them to eat. They strip it down to the trunk. And like doing it. 
As for grass clippings. And this goes for horses also. If you want to feed some. And I emphasis some. Spread them out over the corral. It gives them a chance to dry rather than ferment, as they would if dumped in a pile. Give the mule something to do by having to search them out. Probably a worse thing that you could do, is feed the clippings from a lawn, you put chemicals on.
Mules need a little adversity in thier lives. If things are too coushy, problems seem to arise. This is where Meridith Hodges comes up with anger issues. Mules become spoiled very easy. A good scratch inside his ear is a far greater treat then a handful of grain. A mules greatest pleasure is rolling and scratching. I use stiffer brushes on my mules than I do my horses. They like the scratch. And will often push into the brush.
Start taking a brush to the corral instead of grain. You may find really good results.
As for picket lines. The bridge on a mules nose is pretty soft and will wear off fast if he wears a halter for extended periods connected to a picket line. I find it best to hobble a leg. Front or back. It matters not, as long as he's been trained to it. I like a front leg because he can't pull straight away. It takes him a little off balance when he comes to the end of the line.
When making a picket line, use a 6' piece of light, 3/16" welded link chain. A swivel, then tie into a piece of rope. I use 40'. I then put a steel ring at the end. There's advantages to it instead of tying a knot. But you still can if you need to. I also use a good stiff 1/2' climbing rope as it doesn't knot as easy.
If he gets wound up in the rope, don't go undo him unless he's choking. He will learn to undo himself. If you undo him, he will train you to come out and do it several times a day. A mule has the ability to see all 4 of his feet at any given time and will quickly learn to get undone and avoid the chain. This is where the chain comes into play. It will stay closer to the ground, letting him step over it instead of hanging up in the grass as a rope would. Catching up on his legs.
He can be taught to be on a picket line inside a corral. Then the first couple of times that you put him out, make sure that he is good and hungry. He will then be thinking more about eating vs. running around. I also keep him tied next to a fence the first few times. Most times you can find a good strong post to help him learn about the limits of the picket line.
Use some judgment. Your mule is an individual and changes will come gradually. Some of the first signs of overeating will be a hay belly and weight gain on the crest of the neck. A mule will also show a little more rib than a horse, even when fat.
When a guy gets bucked off or has a run away with his mule the first thing I ask about is how he's feeding. He's usually overfeeding.
You can kill a mule with your kindness and he can kill you because of your kindness. Keep a little adversity in his life. 
I hope this helps.


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## Rogo

No two feed/tend alike!!

All my house pets and livestock free choice feed. My horses/mules/donkeys have had the same menu for many years -- Bermuda grass hay and food grade diatomaceous earth (DE) - (28 trace minerals). Aside from the minerals, I feed the DE so there's no sickness/diseases. I've never had a reason to feed any of them grain. I haven't had a vet bill for over 30 years and have never had a colic.

All my species of stock roam free on the acreage. A lot fewer problems when they're not confined.

Grass clippings aren't a problem here in the desert, don't have any grass! I'm told they're usually wet and mold fast, causing sickness and sometimes death from the mold. Also folks fertilize and use weed killer on their lawns and that's also not healthy for the critters.

My 24 year old mule and his 73 year old owner still love the tough mountain rides. He's fast and I love it!

I haul my mount in the bed of my truck. When camping out, if no trees around, I tie him to the truck with a 30 foot rope. Been doing this for year with different mounts. Mules know how to unwind from the trees!!

I've only used hobbles a couple to times. I just put them on the critter and he was fine. Haven't done it with horses.


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