# Tiller that's been in storage, gas not drained...



## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

I have a friend that offered me a garden tiller at a price I couldn't refuse. Only thing is, it's been sitting in storage for years and I found out that it has not had the gas drained out of the tank and it did not start with a few pulls on the pull rope. It did turn over pretty easily but no fire. Oil looked good. Had good spark. Didn't even try to fire, though. The old gas worries me. Didn't have time to go any farther at that point.

I am kinda wondering how big of a project I got myself into trying to get this thing running again. It's an 8hp Briggs motor, probably 1990s vintage. Doesn't look to have been abused too badly.

Anybody ever had those carburetors apart or had to clean one out that has been setting a long time? Difficult? Impossible? Not so bad? I'm sure I'll be in for some kind of fun as I get into it but thought maybe I'd see if there were some sage words of wisdom out there. LOL!! Can't go back in time to drain it for the original owner. Gotta work with what I have in the here and now.

Might be a few weeks before I can spend any serious time with it but thought maybe I'd start the process of learning all I can about the wonderful world of carburetor varnish...

Thanks for the thoughts!


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## AdmiralD7S (Nov 1, 2013)

It's hard to say. I did a 5HP b&S that sat for 2 years with gas in it. That was the first time I'd done a small-engine carb. Took me about 12 hours total on it.

You'll want to spend time making sure you clean out all the jets; there are a surprising number of them in small engine carbs. Also, I'd clean out the fuel line and tank real well...lots of gunk can build up.

Should be doable, but I recommend spending your time over one weekend. I did an hour a day over several weeks, and I kept having to remember what I'd done the day before


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

Thanks, Admiral!

Doesn't sound tooooo bad. I'm usually pretty good with little projects like that but figured maybe a little input would be a good thing. I tend to be anal about finding out nitty gritty details of everything possible before I ever take a thing like that apart.

Were there any particular tools (picks, scrapers, drill bits, ???) that you found particularly helpful? Solvents / cleaners? Any tips or pointers in getting it well adjusted once back on the engine? Any websites particularly helpful?


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## Harry Chickpea (Dec 19, 2008)

Remove the fuel cup, clean and inspect. Half the time it'll be full of water and rusty. Pull the float valve needle and clean, replace any fuel filter. A lot of the time that and a little spray carb cleaner is all that is needed. Once you start tearing in more than that there can be membranes and gaskets that are easily damaged and will need to be replaced.


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## alleyyooper (Apr 22, 2005)

Start by draining the old fuel out of the tank. Second step is to take the carb off and if you are worried about putting it back on right take pictures as you go. Get a gallon of lacquer thinner and a metal pot or can, take the carb apart taking pictures as you go so it goes back together right. Place all the carb parts and carb body in that thinner I recommend 2 days 48 hours to soak. Take it out after that time strain the thinner to remove the dirt (or use new stuff)and soak the carb again for a day. Remove it and blow out all the nooks and cranny's with compressed air and put it back together again. Should then have a carb that works and an engine that runs with fresh fuel in the tank.

 Al


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## AdmiralD7S (Nov 1, 2013)

Bellyman said:


> Were there any particular tools (picks, scrapers, drill bits, ???) that you found particularly helpful? Solvents / cleaners?



Nothing real special for getting things apart; standard screwdrivers, wrenches/ sockets will do it. Be very cautious splitting the carb in half if you're trying to save the gaskets.

For cleaning things up, I find that a razor blade is good if there are bits of gasket remaining on the carb's sealing edges. Just be careful to scrape only; I assuming your carb is aluminum, so it can be very easy to take divots out if you get in a hurry or frustrated (don't ask how I know). If you're worried, I'd recommend starting with a brass brush and moving to stainless as needed.

Also, I find that a needle jet/nozzle for an air compressor works well to help clean out the carb's jets.

Lastly, you may want to get a carb rebuild kit for your engine. They're inexpensive and will come with new needle, (probably) some springs, new gasket, etc. I view it like going behind any vehicle's dash: it's can be enough of a pain that if I'm forced to go in, I'm going to replace things that are likely to break in the near future just so I can save some upcoming labor


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## simi-steading (Sep 27, 2012)

I will almost promise you that when you split the carb you'll tear the gasket.. Go ahead and drop the money and get a kit.. about $20 or so.. this way you will also get a new float valve.. Some older ones used a rubber seat.. newer ones are a rubber tipped needle.. You'll get all the gaskets. You'll want them. Depending on the carb, a couple might be rubber washers. The old ones get hard and crack.. I go direct to B&S web site to order my parts.. They charge MSRP, many shops charge over MSRP... 

You may also get a new throttle and or choke shaft. Many times those will be worn, especially if the old air filter wasn't kept clean.. also get a new air filter... 

I've torn down and cleaned thousands of briggs carbs for many years.. it's a fast simple job. Even for someone that has never been in one. as long as you know how to work a screwdriver you're golden.. 

The big thing to watch is the springs on the governor and throttle rod... The one on the throttle rod is to keep the play out of it. Just don't bend up the end of it.

Yours may be a little different and not have those... It just depends on the model and how old it is.


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## mnn2501 (Apr 2, 2008)

Dump the gas out and put a small amount of brand new gas into it, prime it a few times and try. You'll know if the carb jets are gummed shut if it won't start. You may get lucky and it'll start, then again you may not, just takes a couple minutes and 20 cents worth of gasoline to try and you just might save yourself a lot of work.

I did this with a mower that was supposed to have been drained (but wasn't) that sat over winter and it worked for me.


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## Bellyman (Jul 6, 2013)

Thanks, guys. I wish I had a better handle on a year and model, that kind of thing. Just not close to it at the moment and it's gonna be a few weeks.

I did figure I'd try a few of the little tricks to see if I can get it running without tearing it apart when I'm not in a hurry. If I do have to tear into it, I'll plan on getting a carb kit and doing it right. I've had car carburetors apart before, can't be any more difficult than a typical 2 bbl... I hope. 

What I'm trying to remember is whether that carb looked like it was made out of plastic?? Dang it, I just can't remember. Did they do that, make them out of plastic, that is?


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## plowjockey (Aug 18, 2008)

mnn2501 said:


> Dump the gas out and put a small amount of brand new gas into it, prime it a few times and try. You'll know if the carb jets are gummed shut if it won't start. You may get lucky and it'll start, then again you may not, just takes a couple minutes and 20 cents worth of gasoline to try and you just might save yourself a lot of work.
> 
> I did this with a mower that was supposed to have been drained (but wasn't) that sat over winter and it worked for me.


+1 here.

You should be able to get it running - at least, with fresh gas. Use some starting fluid or dribble gas in the carb, to get it lit.

Tearing it apart at the get-go, is additional work (and hassles) that might be completely necessary.

Plus it could be a whole other can of worms.


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## jwal10 (Jun 5, 2010)

You say it turns over easy, compression may be low. Pull plug and add a little light oil, may help seal the rings and lube up the cyl. If it had fuel in the tank is better than if it was left with a little and it gummed up. I would drain, change/clean filter and refill partially. Change/clean air filter. Open the drain or pull the jet and let a little run through the carb making sure it has good flow and can fill the bowl. Check engine oil. Pull over slowly, replace plug, check for spark and then try to start. A little starting fluid to see if it will run on it and start pulling gas in....James


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## logbuilder (Jan 31, 2006)

I agree with the most straightforward way being to drain gas, drain lines and then use starting fluid to get things moving. If you have spark, some compression you should get a few pops. If not, check the plug closer and maybe replace. If you get the pops, then you are onto the carb. If it will not catch, you need to check out the carb. Likely needle valve or float. Use small wire to clean out any hole you see. Anything rubber like an o-ring, check it out.


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## clovis (May 13, 2002)

I, too, suggest draining the gas, and trying some fresh gas before tearing it apart.

I've seen it work more than once.


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