# Troubleshooting stitches



## FoxGardener93 (Jun 23, 2013)

Hi, I'm sewing dog collars as a side stream of income. 

I want to sew "bars" into the collars - back and forth stitching in a small zigzag to secure the hardware. It's set to the smallest zigzag, with a stitch length of 2.5, but instead of small zigzags, I'm getting really LONG straight stitches.

Machine was serviced last week and it's threaded correctly. 
The collars are very thick, and I'm thinking that may have something to do with it, but that can't be helped. The stitches are correct on a test swatch, but wrong on the collars.

Do any of you seamstresses have any insight?


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## TexasRed (Nov 20, 2014)

Hi FoxGardener - 

Are the samples you say are coming out right the same material and thickness as the collars? 

Do you have a walking foot for your machine? 

I have run into the same problem with trying to sew ultra thick fabrics. I determined the fabric (_in your case, collar material_) was not feeding correctly because it is only being advanced by the bottom feet. You may need a walking foot attachment or at the very least, a Teflon foot to help the bulky fabric advance smoothly. Or...

Perhaps try adjusting your presser foot pressure. Maybe it's not enough pressure, maybe too much?!? Or it could be you need a bigger needle?

I know how frustrating it can be. This type of sewing is pretty simple yet the little details are usually the ones that cause me the most irritation

Hope this helps and Good luck with the collars. Pictures?


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## TexasRed (Nov 20, 2014)

I slept on this and had some other thoughts...

Try changing your stitch length to the lowest possible setting while still allowing it to advance. You may need to made the stitch width a big wider (bigger) to achieve the desired result.

Another idea --- Do you have a buttonhole setting on your machine? 

I think that is essentially what you are trying to achieve - 1 side of a button hole. Maybe try that!? _Don't forget to change to the proper presser foot for button holes._

Let us know how you are getting along on your project.


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

Also, do you have a jeans needle in the machine. Those are good for going thru thicknesses better than normal needles.


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## sewtlm (Mar 22, 2006)

Your stitch length for satin stitch should be less than 1 to 0.5 . The narrow width at 2.5 will look like a squiggly straight stitch.


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## FoxGardener93 (Jun 23, 2013)

Wow, thanks for the thoughtful replies! 

The scrap swatch I was testing it on was the exact same fabric and thickness. I don't have a walking foot, but I looked it up and am giving it serious thought TexasRed. 

I figured it out you guys - My machine is SKIPPING STITCHES. I'm new to sewing, so I didn't know what I was looking at, but it's definitely skipping. I've gone through every possible cause of skipping that I can find, but none check out except potentially the presser foot pressure.
I REALLY think the presser foot pressure is one of the culprits, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to adjust it on my machine! (I've had some issues with flagging, so I'm really thinking this might be an issue.) I have a Singer2517c, and there's nothing about it in the manual. There's no knob on the machine anywhere I can find...

I'm going to test it out with a much shorter stitch length. Don't have a buttonhole setting though, but that would have been a great idea! 

Angie, I had been using a denim needle when I was doing some that were made with duck fabric, but when I switched to regular cotton the thick needles were leaving little holes at every stitch. Now I've switched back to a size 11 universal needle.

sewtlm, wow, I had no idea! I'll give that a try. (I've just started teaching myself to sew a few weeks ago.) I'll post a picture if I keep having trouble.

I just can't keep sewing when it keeps skipping like this - production is at a halt and my hubbie is getting antsy. (We've invested a good bit of money and time so far in this venture, and I'm trying to keep up with production goals.)


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## Belfrybat (Feb 21, 2003)

Ditto here for a jeans needle. Almost any other needle will skip stitches on something as thick as you are sewing.


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## homebody (Jan 24, 2005)

That size is for thin fabric, sure not for thick or several layers of fabric. What kind of fabrc is it? Also, what kind of thread?


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## FoxGardener93 (Jun 23, 2013)

Ok, I switched back to a denim needle (ok, or 6 of them... they keep breaking) with a very small width on the zigzags. Now I'm not skipping stitches (or if I am I can't tell because the stitches are so small) but the needle keeps falling out or breaking. I have to sew 6 bars, and I rarely get through a bar without the needle coming loose and getting stuck in the fabric.

These needles are expensive! A 3-pack of denim needles at Joann's was $4.99! 

Oh, and the fabric is just regular cotton, but it's 4 layers (+interfacing.) Coats thread, so it should be high quality.


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## TexasRed (Nov 20, 2014)

I feel your frustration. 

I looked up your machine and you are correct, I found no reference to an adjustment for the presser foot. Unusual to me, but may be due to the fact that all my machines are 40+ years old. Perhaps the newer machines are self adjusting ?!?

*Causes for breaking needles.* When this happens to me it is usually 1 of 2 reasons. 1) The needle is inserted backwards :shrug: or 2) I am pushing or pulling the fabric while sewing. This causes the needle to bend slightly and it will strike the throat plate on the downstroke - "crash"! I do this often when sewing bulky upholstery. Another possible cause can be that the machine is not threaded correctly. Doesn't take but a few seconds to re-tread it even if you are certain it is correct. 

*Needle size.*You are likely using the correct SIZE of needle, but not sure you need the extra hard shaft and razor point of a denim needle. Assuming you are sewing basic _mid-weight woven cotton_ (4 layers + interfacing), a regular point Size 14 or 16 should be fine. A size 18 might be warranted, but probably not. Denim needles are for tight, _heavy wovenâs_ like canvas and denim.

Coates threads are great quality. The All-Purpose thread should be fine for this project.

When I have troubles with my machine, walking away for 20 minutes and doing something else helps dissipate the frustration. Hang in there Fox. Keep us informed how you are getting along. Keep asking questions, we will keep trying to help.

I admire your determination to conquer the sewing demons :goodjob:


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## AngieM2 (May 10, 2002)

I don't use coats thread. It fusses up your machine and breaks too easily. I use MaxiLock serger thread on a stand that can be bought. 

Or gutermen (or however it is spelled). It's more expensive, but you get what you pay for.


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## sewtlm (Mar 22, 2006)

The skipped stitches could be caused by the hook area having a little burr on the hook itself or there is a tiny piece of broken needle stuck in the hook mexhanism


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## 7thswan (Nov 18, 2008)

2 things. Smetz needles and a can of silicone spray for use on fabric. Lightly spray where you want needle to go thru smoothly.


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