# "Do it yourself" gun blueing kits.



## swamp man (Dec 25, 2005)

Anyone have any experience with these? What were your results?
I have an old lever action in need of a re-blue. The gunsmith I use does beautiful work, and he's as honest as the day is long, but a professional job ain't in the budget at the moment, and I'd like to get something on her pretty quick, to at least offer protection from the elements until I can turn her over to a pro.
Thanks, and good huntin' to y'all.


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## Ed Norman (Jun 8, 2002)

Any kind of spray paint will cover and protect it for years, and the gunsmith can blast it right off with a bead blaster when you are ready to get it blued. They sell camo paint or stove paint works good, too.


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## tyusclan (Jan 1, 2005)

If the gun's just an old beater that doesn't have collector value, then a re-blue will be fine. The DIY kits work pretty well. Just be sure to follow the directions EXACTLY.

If it is collectible, do some research before you re-blue it, because that usually lowers the value. Collectors would usually prefer the gun as is. The dings and wear show the character of the gun.


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## gunsmithgirl (Sep 28, 2003)

I have to say that cold bluing is about useless for anything other than touch-up.
My recommendation for home refinishing would be one of the following:

1. rust blue -can be done without any special equipment, looks as good (some think better) than hot bluing, durability is about equal to a professional hot blue job.

2. Parkerizing can also be done with little equipment and is very durable.

3 If you want to use a spray paint type of finish go with Brownell's gun kote
here is a link to their site: brownells 

A few more misc. tips for refinishing:

*your finish will only look as good as the prep done on the metal.

*Never buy bluing & rust remover- use SNO BOWL (the toilet bowl cleaner) pour on and let sit a few minutes, the bluing will wipe right off the gun with a rag.


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## agmantoo (May 23, 2003)

I have had satisfactory results using this product http://www.botachtactical.com/bircasperblu1.html 
I prepare the area using four 0 steel wool, then apply the bluing. Afterward I liberally apply Break Free lubricant.


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

> "I'd like to get something on her pretty quick, to at least offer protection from the elements"


Blueing is actually a controlled rust, and does NOT offer any "protection" Its strictly cosmetic. Protection comes from keeping it oiled or waxed


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## diamondtim (Jun 10, 2005)

Swamp Man,

Have you talked to the gunsmith about what he wants for a good "hot blue" or are you assuming "it's out of the budget"?  

I would also ask him what you should do for now, as he will have to undo what you have done. :flame: 

And please save the stove paint for say...stoves.


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## swamp man (Dec 25, 2005)

tyusclan said:


> If the gun's just an old beater that doesn't have collector value, then a re-blue will be fine. The DIY kits work pretty well. Just be sure to follow the directions EXACTLY.
> 
> If it is collectible, do some research before you re-blue it, because that usually lowers the value. Collectors would usually prefer the gun as is. The dings and wear show the character of the gun.


Tks, tyusclan.
Nope, no real collector's value, just a well-used, but apparently well cared-for Marlin 1894 in .44 mag.


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## swamp man (Dec 25, 2005)

gunsmithgirl said:


> I have to say that cold bluing is about useless for anything other than touch-up.
> My recommendation for home refinishing would be one of the following:
> 
> 1. rust blue -can be done without any special equipment, looks as good (some think better) than hot bluing, durability is about equal to a professional hot blue job.
> ...


Wow...thanks, gunsmithgirl!
I really like a parkerized finish on some guns, but on a lever action with such pretty furniture (I lucked out), it just wouldn't be right.
I appreciate the tips, and I'll look into the rust bluing.


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## swamp man (Dec 25, 2005)

Bearfootfarm said:


> Blueing is actually a controlled rust, and does NOT offer any "protection" Its strictly cosmetic. Protection comes from keeping it oiled or waxed


 Hmmmmmmmmm....
On the guns with areas of worn bluing that I've had, surface rust can appear nearly overinght on the spots with no bluing, but not so much in spots where the bluing is intact.
With the extreme humidity here, surface rust will pop up on any bare metal, regaurdless of cleanliness and oil. 
It's a constant battle here. In the recent past, I've mostly bought stainless steel arms, but I ran across this one and really liked it.


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## swamp man (Dec 25, 2005)

diamondtim said:


> Swamp Man,
> 
> Have you talked to the gunsmith about what he wants for a good "hot blue" or are you assuming "it's out of the budget"?
> 
> ...


 Two "rolleyes" smileys, and a "flame" smiley??
Do you have a "smiley" problem, or are you just socially retarted?  
Yes, I talked to the gunsmith.


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## diamondtim (Jun 10, 2005)

swamp man said:


> Two "rolleyes" smileys, and a "flame" smiley??
> Do you have a "smiley" problem, or are you just socially retarted?
> Yes, I talked to the gunsmith.


Swamp Man,

No, I do not have a smiley problem, nor am I socially retarted (or did you mean retarded?), but thanks for asking. It shows how much you care for others.

Back to the reason for my original response: I just hate to see someone mess up a gun with quickie fixes that do more harm than good.

Good Luck with finding the right solution.

(note: no potentially offensive smiley was used in this post)


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## 416LJT (Mar 19, 2007)

gunsmithgirl said:


> I have to say that cold bluing is about useless for anything other than touch-up.
> 
> My thought exactly


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## poorboy (Apr 15, 2006)

Ain't to bad iffin you will do one coat and heat the steel up nicely let cool and cold blue a second time...YOUR gun do whatever pleases YOU with it..


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