# No "spark" on weedeater/won't start......



## Janis Sauncy (Apr 11, 2006)

I have a weedeater, bought new last year. It is a Poulon ProLink.

Needless to say, it won't start. We've put new mix in and have tried spraying starting stuff into the air intake (or what we think is the air intake) and still no luck. It sounds as if it's not getting any spark.

I guess the next step would be to remove the spark plug. Do I need a special tool to do this?

Thanks. 

Janis


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## Bearfootfarm (Jul 13, 2006)

Youll most likely need a deep socket.


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## moopups (May 12, 2002)

Assuming this is a 2 stroke engine, have you found and pumped the amber/transparent priming bulb? Its about grape size, 6 or 7 pumps insure fuel is getting to where it is needed. Secondly, there should be a choke, usually located close to the throttle, pull it out for the first 5 or so tries to start. Put it back in half way for repeated attempts. If the machine starts, leave the choke out 1/2 way for about 15 to 20 seconds, then push it completely in.

If this is a failed result check the spark plug, remove it usually with a 18 mm socket, they are specially made for this purpose. The 18 mm spark plug is becoming more popular these days. You will also need a 3/8th inch ratchet to be the twist handle. Place the spark plug back into the wire receiver and lay it on the engine block; pull the starter cord as you watch the end that goes inside.

There should be a spark, blue is best, white is adequate, yellow is weak. If yellow remove the cover of the flywheel and clean any rust off the magnets or receiving area of the flywheel. These engines get their spark via a spinning magnet.


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## Beeman (Dec 29, 2002)

Do yourself a favor and don't spray "stuff" into your engines, it's not the best thing for them. Chances are the weedeater came with a wrench that fits fasteners on the machine and the spark plug, I know my Stihls do. Most of the newer weedeaters usually come with an extended warranty on the ignition also, again my Stihl did.


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## bill not in oh (Jul 27, 2004)

Remove the air cleaner, put a [teaspoon full] of fuel in the opening of the carburetor, and try to start it. If it fires or starts - good news it's probably not ignition-related.... bad news - it's probably the carburetor.

When was the last time you started it?
Did it start easily then and run OK?

It could also be the fuel pickup filter (not likely, but certainly possible). This is a small airstone looking device in the fuel tank that should be attached to a tube passing through the fuel tank to the carb. It could have become detached or need to be cleaned (not likely after one year of use - but possible).


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## Janis Sauncy (Apr 11, 2006)

I haven't gotten back to all of you about your suggestions because my sons (who deal with all "mechanical" for me) were camping.

I'm going over this stuff now with my 16-year-old.

I appreciate the input and will let you know what happens.

By the way, I bought this weedeater new last year. It wasn't used more than 10 or 12 times over the season and then it sat all winter. We haven't been able to get it started since.

Thanks again.

Janis


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## bill not in oh (Jul 27, 2004)

Janis - If it sat over the winter with fuel in it, often the carburetor will 'collect' varnish (for lack of a better word) deposits on the surfaces that are in contact with the fuel/oil mixture. This can 'gum up' the carburetor as some of the passages in the carb are very small. This can restrict the fuel flow through the carburetor to a point that it can't provide sufficient fuel to the engine. I would suspect this before an ignition problem (not that there couldn't be one).

Poulan uses (used) Walbro carburetors on many of their engines - the rebuild kits for these are readily available and cheap ($10 - 15) and easy to install for someone that has even basic mechanical ability. I just rebuilt two on a pair of Weedeater line trimmers that were given to me (Poulan engines) - piece of cake.... Just be sure to have the model # of the carb when you get the kit.

The kits are usually put together to cover several models of carbs, so for any given rebuild there will likely be some parts left over that actually fit another model...

PS: It's a good idea to run the fuel completely out of any small engine (but especially 2-cycle engines) if they aren't going to be used for 30 days or more.


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