# Sock Knitting Question - Gaps with DPNS



## donsgal (May 2, 2005)

I am working on my DPNS technique before trying to knit a pair of socks on them, and I am having a problem with gaps between needles. Also, the place where the cast on beginning and end comes togeter is a big MESS. I have tried holding the yarn "really tight" when I switch the needles to knit, but as I am working on the other needles they seem to drift apart and there is a big gap! I have tried and tried to stop this from happening but it still does. I have also tried holding the needles different ways so there isn't as much stress pulling the needles apart, but nothing seems to help. As for the big gap between cast on, I can't figure out what I am doing wrong.

Oh please somebody help! wahhhhh :Bawling: 

donsgal


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## Maura (Jun 6, 2004)

Are knitting from the top down or from the toe up? This will determine your cast one. Regardless, do not count the slip stitch as a stitch. Make the slip stitch, cast on the number of stitches. If you are knitting from the top down, turn (do not join in round), and *K1, P1*. Remove the slip stitch. Join in round. There are at least 3 ways to join in round 1) Just line up your needles correctly, and knit. 2) Cast on one extra stitch. Knit one row (like I tell you to do in the next paragraph) and when you come to the last stitch, don't stitch it. Instead K2tog with the first st. 3) Knit first round. Adjust needles into the round. Slip the first st onto your needle, bring yarn to the front. Slip the 1st st back to the left needle, and also slip the last st to the left needle. Put yarn in back. Slip the last st onto the right needle. You just wrapped the 1st and last stitches together. Place marker, knit.

When you come to the end of the needle (3 needles with stitches, 1 naked), take another stitch. Now, use the 4th needle. If you keep taking a stitch from the next needle, before using the 4th needle, you shouldn't get gaps.


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

Donsgal here is what I do for the holes problem and I just noticed someone in the Daily knitting e-newsletter doing the same thing. When you finish one needle and you knit that first stitch on the next needle. Tug really tightly on that stitch after you knit it. I also do the same with the second stitch and I never seem to have a problem with holes or ladders from DP's. It may take you a few times to get it right. It's great that you are practicing. 

As for that lump at the beginning when your join your cast on stitches to each other. When I knit socks, I always do it from the top down :shrug: it's how I learned but I've never tried the other way. So I always cast-on an extra stitch on the last needle. Then I slip that last stitch onto the first needle. It will be awkward until you get a few stitches knitted. Then when I knit or purl the first stitch I actually knit the slipped stitch and the "true" first stitch together along with the tail and the working yarn. Then I continue knitting the tail and the working yarn together for another stitch or two. It just helps anchor it all together. There is generally always a bit of a bunp but I use that at my guide when I need to keep track of where I began. You will need to know where the start is in order to keep track of rounds and such and when you divide stitches for the heel flap.

Good luck! Is this your first pair of socks? They are such fun to make.


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## Katherine in KY (May 11, 2002)

I do what March does--pull the first stitch on a new needle really tight. You have to think about it at first, but then it will come naturally. When first joining the cast-on stitches, I tend to knit one row withhout joining them (mostly because I forget to join!) because then you have one row, a little more body, and no twisting, to join. Then when I finish I use the tail to join that top row. You really can't tell, and it serves to pull together any gap in the second row when you do make the join. Clear as mud, eh? Keep trying; you'll get it.


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## flourbug (May 30, 2007)

I avoid gaps with DPN's by knitting over them. ie, if there are 22 stitches on each of three needles at the end of the first row, on the next round I'll knit needle one's 22 stitches then pick up an extra two from the beginning of needle two, carefully following the pattern otherwise. Every round I will borrow a few more stitches from the next needle and carry this along, jogging that inbetween loose space over just enough on each round so there's no ladder formed. With a marker at the cuff to show the correct beginning of the row, and a bit of attention to how this will affect the pattern, it works out fine.


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## Marchwind (May 10, 2002)

Katherine Ilke your idea of knitting a row before you connect the stitches. Very clever :dance: I'llhave to try this on the next hat. Thanks!!!


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## Liese (Dec 12, 2005)

To add to everyone else's more excellent advice, may I suggest that you try going down a size on your dpn - you sound like a loose knitter and this may help. Just do one or 2 rows and see if improvement, you should be able to switch back without affecting the project much.


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## MullersLaneFarm (Jul 23, 2004)

I knit socks top down. After casting on, I slip one stitch from left to right needle, and also slip the true first stitch from the right needle over the one I slipped and onto the left needle.

Tuggin on the last two and first two stitches between needles keeps it from gapping.


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